Thanks for the video! Just magnetised mine. I did have a couple issues though. Silly me filled the body with sprue pieces.. Worked great until I used a pipette to squirt glue in there... The really thin tamiya stuff. Thought it was going well until it started dripping out of his groin and stuff... Then a day later I realised his leg sockets had melted and gone soft, so badly that he faceplanted with his legs still stuck to the base LOL. But I've since sorted it, a bit of cutting, 3d printing new ball and socket joings, filling holes with milliput etc.. Hopefully he's fixed now lol. If you're going to fill the body with sprues, use the thick glue sparingly and let it dry bit by bit. Or even better. Fill his body when putting his body together.
This is one of those rare moments where i see a god tieir simple tip that changes the way i build stuff.. i've been contemplating magnetizing some of my walkers with ball and socket joints by using a pen + positioning + cutting and sanding accordingly but this paint based method is superior, Should of probally occured to me considering ive been pinning using the dot of paint trick for years... i've been building with a mindset of magnetiization so im actually filling hollow voids with putty at the same time i glue and pose the legs/main body together. This tip will be added to that method.
I just picked up the Combat Patrol box and my deff dread is the last one I need to put together, so I am looking at magnetizing. Since I haven't assembled it yet, do you think it would be easier to do before it is all assembled? I was thinking maybe cut down a some pieces of sprue glue them in on the inside and then pack miliput behind the sockets then go with the steps there. Would that be enough support for the magnet or would packing it fulll be a better route to go?
Hey Skumpy sorry for the late reply. The reason I like to build the torsos first is just to get a good idea on how everything is supposed to fit. Sometimes it’s hard to tell if something is sitting properly when you just have half a torso put together. I think you could definitely give it a go, and putting milliput behind to re-enforce is a good idea for sure I would just suggest roughing up where the milliput will sit with a file sand paper or just your hobby knife so the milliput can get a good solid hold.
What if you drill holes on one side of the Deff Dread and then filled it with epoxy? Might have to partial fill the small hole, wait for it to dry and then fill it to the big hole. I see there is a green stuff acrylic model filler. But idk which method is cheaper
Hey nobodyreally thanks for your comment! I’m not really sure which would be cheaper either, probably the epoxy if you get cheap dollar store epoxy. The problem I see with that is that cheap epoxy is usually 5 min epoxy which doesn’t give you a lot of working time, it also cures super hard which might make it difficult to fix any mistakes and it’s sticky as all hell. I’m also not sure how the epoxy would react with the plastic maybe I should make an experimental video about it !!!
Just the video I was looking for. If you could add a section at the beginning of your videos listing the number of magnets and tools you use etc, that would be boss.
1. 6x2mm for the upper and lower torso sockets 2. 6x2 mm on the arms for the dread claws * In the next video * 3. 5x1 mm for the gun mount connection to the torso 4. 3x1mm to connect guns to the gun mounts
Much easier to add the magnets inside the dread before you glue it together. Learned this when doing guns on Archecopter.
Thanks for the video! Just magnetised mine. I did have a couple issues though.
Silly me filled the body with sprue pieces.. Worked great until I used a pipette to squirt glue in there... The really thin tamiya stuff. Thought it was going well until it started dripping out of his groin and stuff... Then a day later I realised his leg sockets had melted and gone soft, so badly that he faceplanted with his legs still stuck to the base LOL.
But I've since sorted it, a bit of cutting, 3d printing new ball and socket joings, filling holes with milliput etc.. Hopefully he's fixed now lol.
If you're going to fill the body with sprues, use the thick glue sparingly and let it dry bit by bit. Or even better. Fill his body when putting his body together.
This is one of those rare moments where i see a god tieir simple tip that changes the way i build stuff..
i've been contemplating magnetizing some of my walkers with ball and socket joints by using a pen + positioning + cutting and sanding accordingly but this paint based method is superior, Should of probally occured to me considering ive been pinning using the dot of paint trick for years... i've been building with a mindset of magnetiization so im actually filling hollow voids with putty at the same time i glue and pose the legs/main body together. This tip will be added to that method.
Thats my Deff Dread! GJ on the video dude
Thanks buddy sorry it’s taken so long it’ll be done this weekend 👍
I ended up using 6x2mm neodymium magnets for the torso and the limbs
Thanks for the video, my brain was not working out how to magnetize ball joints👍
No problem! Let me know if there is another 40K kit you would like to see magnetized.
It would be cool to see more delicate things magnetized such as Boyz, space marines and other vehicles
@@joshuasims9381 Hey Joshua, thanks for the comment. Ork Kommandos are on the list to get done eventually as well as Space Marine Vanguard Veterans
I just picked up the Combat Patrol box and my deff dread is the last one I need to put together, so I am looking at magnetizing. Since I haven't assembled it yet, do you think it would be easier to do before it is all assembled? I was thinking maybe cut down a some pieces of sprue glue them in on the inside and then pack miliput behind the sockets then go with the steps there. Would that be enough support for the magnet or would packing it fulll be a better route to go?
Hey Skumpy sorry for the late reply.
The reason I like to build the torsos first is just to get a good idea on how everything is supposed to fit. Sometimes it’s hard to tell if something is sitting properly when you just have half a torso put together.
I think you could definitely give it a go, and putting milliput behind to re-enforce is a good idea for sure I would just suggest roughing up where the milliput will sit with a file sand paper or just your hobby knife so the milliput can get a good solid hold.
@@MiniNewb i appreciate the response. Thank you
What if you drill holes on one side of the Deff Dread and then filled it with epoxy? Might have to partial fill the small hole, wait for it to dry and then fill it to the big hole. I see there is a green stuff acrylic model filler. But idk which method is cheaper
Hey nobodyreally thanks for your comment!
I’m not really sure which would be cheaper either, probably the epoxy if you get cheap dollar store epoxy. The problem I see with that is that cheap epoxy is usually 5 min epoxy which doesn’t give you a lot of working time, it also cures super hard which might make it difficult to fix any mistakes and it’s sticky as all hell. I’m also not sure how the epoxy would react with the plastic maybe I should make an experimental video about it !!!
Just the video I was looking for. If you could add a section at the beginning of your videos listing the number of magnets and tools you use etc, that would be boss.
Hey Wastelander thanks for the comment, and the great suggestion!
What size magnets did you use
1. 6x2mm for the upper and lower torso sockets
2. 6x2 mm on the arms for the dread claws
* In the next video *
3. 5x1 mm for the gun mount connection to the torso
4. 3x1mm to connect guns to the gun mounts
Just glue the bits to it I did it to my death dread