Wouldnt the smart move here be to first glass bed the action, then go and bed the fore end but with 2 or 3 layers of tape around the barrel to maintain a free-float while also adding rigidity to the stock?
I AM GOING TO SAND OUT AS MUCH AS PLASTIC AS I POSSIBLE WITHOUT ANY OF THE FILLS, I THINK THAT SHOULD TAKE CARE OF THE CONTACT AND KEEP THE RIFLE STILL LIGHT WEIGHT FOR HUNTING.
All you need is Devcon to be used to fill the void about 3/4 of the way up and let it cure. You'll keep the barrel free floated, but stiffen the stock.
Rather than body putty. I used Bondo glass, which is thick resin mixed with shredded glass strands used to repair fiber glass autos. It worked fantastic.
I've been watching alot of videos trying to prepare my self for doing a bedding job. I have NEVER seen anyone bed the barrel? I'm sorry, but that doesn't even make sense to me?
You are rolling the dice by going from a free-floated barrel to fully bedded forend. Remember the RAR is designed to be ff. Pressure bedding like that might give you a tight 3-shot group, but i bet the POI wanders like a soab as the barrel heats and expands. I bet your 5-shot groups string from this change.
Where's the follow up? It looks like you've lost the free float and now increased contact down the entire barrel with out completely fixing the flex. Maybe only filling the lower 2/3 rds of the forearm and heat flaring the edge contacting the barrel would help.
I actually wanted to add some weight to my stock on the RA .308 as well as stiffen it up some. I like em a little heavier. Added Fiberglass resin and bbs in the forend to the top of the cavities and the butt. I liked the result. Much stiffer stock and it does not sound hollow at the stock end. Trimmed back some of the polymer and maintained the free float. Shoots well with 3-9x 50 Nikon glass on it.
So here we are in Aug. 2017 and I just picked up my new Ruger American Predator rifle ..after the idiotic California 10 day wait period. When I removed the action from the stock to check for flexing, I noticed that Ruger made some improvements to the mold. Rather then having the same worthless perpendicular molded webs like your older stock has, the new Ruger synthetic stock has criss-cross webs to prevent flexing along the entire fore grip. The butt is still an open cavity and needs to be filled with a more suitable material other than the foam block. Peace...
I've used the little plastic "beads" that are in a bean bag chair. Available at fabric/sewing supply stores. Typically adding a little over a pound to the stock.
@@jamespilbeam209 I spent a year trying to get that rifle to shoot, typical was 1- 1/4" at 100 yrds. So I bought a trigger and an MDT aluminum chassis and it now shoots 1/2 MOA...
I could see adding some stiff filler in the forearm but NOT go over the ridges. I'd add it to one side at a time so I could then tilt it off center to spread the resin up the side more - just a little to break surface tension then let it drain back down some so it would stiffen the sides. The idea is to stiffen the forearm but NOT touch the barrel. I'd run 320 grit facing outward up and down the barrel until it shaved off any plastic that was touching - like extra flashing in the ribs and at the front lip. The side top edges could also be scrapped or sanded with a block to get a 45 degree angle so any flex didn't touch the barrel. That's the whole idea of free-floating so the barrel heats up AND cools evenly. Filling the bed up against the barrel would affect cooling along the bottom. It would also transfer the tripod push onto the barrel. That would be like leaning the barrel against a tree instead of the stock or your hand. Did the stock get heavy if you filled it fully with resin?
so what happened to the free floating barrel hmm instead of filling it with useless bondo you could have used stiffing rods and epoxy the ends of them to stff up the stock better yet for the time and money get a boyds stock or have one custom built out of wood on a cnc twisting in the forarm means nothing as long as the action itself is tight the barrel will sit where it wants to
I was in shock too. I would fill the voids with BBs, then use accraglass over top, I would also get rid of the tip of the stock where it touches the barrel.
Old timers used to bed the action and barrel all the time. Free float is overrated. Pre64 Winchester 70's have the barrel tight against the wood the full length of the barrel and an action bolt that screws into the barrel. I've shot 3/4 inch groups at 200 yards with one in 270 .
@@jasonsimone3523that goes against what all gunsmiths have told me over my 45 years of shooting. You would be hard pressed to find any gunsmith that would agree with you.
NULA does that with their rifles on purpose. Of course that is a thin lightweight barrel. I agree with the first poster though, but I was thinking fill with foam then a layer of bedding in the whole channel and a couple layers of tape around barrel.
The reason why there is less flex is because the stock is literally molded to the barrel. I'm guessing that the barrel harmonics and oscilation is consistent since there is full contact throughout the length of the barrel. Why didn't he put release agent on the tape that way he wouldn't have to file it off?
What is the difference between bedding the barrel all the way up the stock versus keeping the barrel free floating but filling the voids in the forensic to stiffen it?
All that time, materials and money when ya just could've bought a Boyd's stock. You bedded the V blocks rendering them lost when the day comes to replace the stock. The stock will still flex from the action thru the grip area...
Crack is sold in grams and weed in ounces. Im telling you right now that rifle is destroyed because of crack or weed, maybe both!. Barrel harmonics are now gone!
I just got a Ruger American .308 Predator. The fore end on it has a different design where it has some cross pieces molded in to make it more rigid. I am trying to keep the weight down and would like to keep it a free floating barrel. I was wondering if bedding the action would help accuracy and make it a bit more rigid. It has the aluminum blocks in it that the action mounts to mainly just that little section in front of the front screw about 1.5 inches or so.
When bedding the entire forend, is it better to let the weight of the barrel dictate the bed, or to hang weight off the front sling swivel stud to create upward force on the barrel when removed? Asking for a Ruger m77 mkii.
I would suggest fiberglass body filler or Rockite and sand to free float the barrel........JB plastic weld the tang and around the pillar area. Also use neutral shoe polish as a release agent........The barrel will have to free float for barrel harmonics .........yet make the stock solid. Also, peel away the bedding after it has set for 2 hours. Total cost......$20 bucks...
is it a good idea to drill some holes in the cell dividers? To make the resin effectively become one piece with divisions as opposed to a series of divided sections filled with resin or whatever.
A really easy and cost effective way to fill the stock and for end is to melt down a few plain household candles and poor into stock just before it solidify's. It's is so easy and works brilliantly with out any mess.
This rifle in it's stock configuration shoots better than 99% of the wannabe Rambo's out there. I just shimmed mine now a dollar bill goes from front to back, stock twist isn't a factor.
I am surprised that he did not just fill it all with epoxy and permanently gluing the barrel to the stock. This guy is one french fry short of a happy meal.
I don’t know why the flexing is such a problem? My first Ruger American Predator shot 6.5 Creedmore , and I’m not jerking anyone around, half inch at 200 yards. I used hornady 140 grain ELD Match. Rifle for the money is awesome. I’ve owned several bench rest rifles and shot competitively, if my new predator in .308 shots as well life will be good!
I'm confused but I am also pretty inexperienced. I spent alot of time getting rid of material to make sure nothing came in contact with the barrel. But it looks like everything is contacting after bedding. Is there an advantage to glass bedding over free floating? Thank you
Shawn, this is know as pressure bedding the barrel - been done with success forever. Compared to the stock he started with, it is leaps and bounds better.
Full length bedding of the barrel completely dampens barrel harmonics and usually results in very tight groups and very good consistency from shot to shot! I once full length bedded the barrel on a Winchester Model 88 in .308 Win. that I shot my favorite hand loads in at the time. It shot 1 1/4 in. ave. groups prior to bedding and after bedding, it shot sub 1/2 inch MOA and do mean SUB 1/2 inch MOA! It also seals the forearm on wood stocks, reinforcing against stock warping in wet/rainy or high humidity climates. "Free Float" barrels do not always shoot their best groups without some sort of bedding, be it a pressure bed at the for-end or support bedding at and a short distance ahead of the receiver ring. Today's shooters have been wrongfully led to believe that "free floating" barrels just plain ARE where "absolute accuracy" lives, but that is not entirely true! Free Floating barrels, "generally" shoot well, but I have out shot many of them with rifles equipped with a small pressure bed at the for-end tip that applies just a few pounds of upward pressure to arrest/dampen barrel harmonics. Fully bedded barrels are stable and consistent performers!
I'm betting they figured out it was the ammo and or the shooter. With a Tupperware stock, I'm not sure how much of a improvement can be made. Ruger has done a good job with the stock in this price range they were going for. Funny thing, No one makes a replacement stock for these yet.
I am a little confused here. One person tells you to free float a barrel. Another tells you to glass bed a barrel. When bedding a barrel it looks like it is not free floating. When do you know which one to use/have done?
Actually.... A fully bedded rifle barrel will often shoot with stability and consistency that floated barrels cannot match. I owned two examples; a Remington model 700 Classic in .300 Weatherby and a Winchester model 88 in .308 Win. I bought the Remington bedded by a Gunsmith and I bedded the Winchester from stem to stern myself. The accuracy improvements to either rifle was night and day! The model 88 went from shooting 1 1/4 inch groups to 3/8ths inch at 100 yards. The Remington shot consistent .5 moa... Don't buy into all the hype regarding "Floating Barrels" being the ONLY answer to rifle accuracy my friend, there are several methods that rifles respond to very well when it comes to action and barrel bedding techniques!
What sort of 5-10 shot groups did the rifle shoot at 100 yards or more before the bedding. And What sort of groups does it shoot after with the same ammo and distance, preferably similar temp and wind. I would like to know how effective this is before I think about trying it on my american in 6.5 creedmoor, witch shoots ok out to 1000yrds it will produce a 20in group with the majority of the shots in a 6in group. I was hoping that either bedding the barrel or filling the fore grip to reinforce and not allow it to touch the barre may put all the shots in the 6in group at 1000yrds.
Just get a Boyd's laminated wood stock for $99 and you won't have to bed it. It'll make your platform much more stable than if you bedded it in the plastic stock.
the ruger american is a budget hunting rifle, not designed to shoot 5 shot groups on the range all day. the first and second shot group tight, after that heating affects subsequent shots, two shot group on a bolt hunting gun is usually one more than you need
How not to bed an action. Later in replies he says he is going to remove material to free float it again. Would be wiser to just increase the free float with a Dremel so the barrel wouldn't touch as all this silly work for nothing. BTW I have bedded actions and free floated barrels. That flex in the stock doesn't mean anything so long as it doesn't touch the barrel. Too many people go silly over the little bit of flex in a composite stock. Most of them don't know what the heck they are talking about. It's just an online talking point.
Honestly didn't find it interesting .. that was a bad job man.. maybe it was your first time doing this?? But you should have just told them to buy a new stock and prob fixed .. this was hard to watch
I own a Ruger American however I would just throw the stock in the trash rather than going to these extremes it's no good just another marketing ploy to get you to buy the rifle the gun is ok just needs a stock right out of the box!
Daniel Meyer I have discarded it already sorry contact Ruger I'm sure they would send you a replacement however check out Boyd's gun stocks I bought my replacement from them and it is nice. You will have to bed the recoil lug area it will be free floated. Good luck sir.
I'm aware of Boyd's, and I will probably get one someday. I want to try painting a plastic stock, but I want a fall-back if I mess it up. Thanks for replying.
Daniel Meyer Watch out for Boyds sales, I have bought a stock from them for i think $59 before during one of their sales. It was one of the more plain praire hunter stocks but it has a great comb and was exactly what that rifle needed. I have a few of their stocks and really like their thumbhole stocks. Its about 99% drop in, and was east to inlet and to bed.
Good video. I'd never attempt to bed a stock as I don't think my attention span would permit it.... lol. It would be nice to know how it does down the road. Thanks for the video!
You can't be further from the truth! Read and research... they are comparable to more expensive precision target rifles for a whole lots less money. They are used for over 1000 yards and over shooting comps. Shoot lots and stay safe.
I don't have to read or research.... I went to buy one when it came out of the box it had oil all over it. SO that just means it's going to rust the first time it gets wet. I tried the bolt and it is junk and will not last. you'll be lucky if you get two years out of this gun before you have to start working on the gun. and by the way I'm talking about the .22 and the 17HMR. But with that said if all of the American rifles are made the same way there on better. Try the Ruger 77/22 or the 77/17Hmr than tell me I'm wrong. Get back to me once the gun gets wet and show a picture of all the rust you find and you will find RUST . I'm sure of that
Grover Alsept my cousin has had the ruger American chambered in .270win since 2015. After barrel break in, he is shooting 1/4"-1/2" at 100yds no problem. Still shooting the same today. 300yd group is 1"-2"... I would say that is pretty good for a junk gun...only thing we done was sand out a little at the front of the stock to free float it..
@@bigshowthe-tn-redneck2471 Agreed. I have the RA Predator in 22-250 and the RA in 7mm08. Both rifles shoot at or just a bit over .5 inch at 100 yards and are as reliable and solid as my Remingtons, Tikka and CZ rifles. I think Grover is having some kind of bad dreams... ;)
Wouldnt the smart move here be to first glass bed the action, then go and bed the fore end but with 2 or 3 layers of tape around the barrel to maintain a free-float while also adding rigidity to the stock?
I AM GOING TO SAND OUT AS MUCH AS PLASTIC AS I POSSIBLE WITHOUT ANY OF THE FILLS, I THINK THAT SHOULD TAKE CARE OF THE CONTACT AND KEEP THE RIFLE STILL LIGHT WEIGHT FOR HUNTING.
That would make more sense. there's too much extra materials used along with labor.
All you need is Devcon to be used to fill the void about 3/4 of the way up and let it cure. You'll keep the barrel free floated, but stiffen the stock.
Rather than body putty. I used Bondo glass, which is thick resin mixed with shredded glass strands used to repair fiber glass autos. It worked fantastic.
Holy crap! This should be titled "How to anchor your barrell and destroy accuracy" !!!
Self taught gunsmith is what I am seeing. He should have watched a bunch of instruction videos.
There is a fine art to gun smithing, this isn't it!
😂😂😂😂😂😂
I've been watching alot of videos trying to prepare my self for doing a bedding job. I have NEVER seen anyone bed the barrel? I'm sorry, but that doesn't even make sense to me?
You are rolling the dice by going from a free-floated barrel to fully bedded forend. Remember the RAR is designed to be ff. Pressure bedding like that might give you a tight 3-shot group, but i bet the POI wanders like a soab as the barrel heats and expands. I bet your 5-shot groups string from this change.
Ive user Hornady One Shot bullet case lube as a release agent for bedding for years...Works great..supper easy and clean to use.
Works great!
Where's the follow up? It looks like you've lost the free float and now increased contact down the entire barrel with out completely fixing the flex. Maybe only filling the lower 2/3 rds of the forearm and heat flaring the edge contacting the barrel would help.
I actually wanted to add some weight to my stock on the RA .308 as well as stiffen it up some. I like em a little heavier. Added Fiberglass resin and bbs in the forend to the top of the cavities and the butt. I liked the result. Much stiffer stock and it does not sound hollow at the stock end. Trimmed back some of the polymer and maintained the free float. Shoots well with 3-9x 50 Nikon glass on it.
So here we are in Aug. 2017 and I just picked up my new Ruger American Predator rifle ..after the idiotic California 10 day wait period. When I removed the action from the stock to check for flexing, I noticed that Ruger made some improvements to the mold. Rather then having the same worthless perpendicular molded webs like your older stock has, the new Ruger synthetic stock has criss-cross webs to prevent flexing along the entire fore grip. The butt is still an open cavity and needs to be filled with a more suitable material other than the foam block. Peace...
Thanks for the update!
I've used the little plastic "beads" that are in a bean bag chair.
Available at fabric/sewing supply stores. Typically adding a little over a pound to the stock.
@@jamespilbeam209 I spent a year trying to get that rifle to shoot, typical was 1- 1/4" at 100 yrds. So I bought a trigger and an MDT aluminum chassis and it now shoots 1/2 MOA...
I could see adding some stiff filler in the forearm but NOT go over the ridges. I'd add it to one side at a time so I could then tilt it off center to spread the resin up the side more - just a little to break surface tension then let it drain back down some so it would stiffen the sides. The idea is to stiffen the forearm but NOT touch the barrel. I'd run 320 grit facing outward up and down the barrel until it shaved off any plastic that was touching - like extra flashing in the ribs and at the front lip. The side top edges could also be scrapped or sanded with a block to get a 45 degree angle so any flex didn't touch the barrel. That's the whole idea of free-floating so the barrel heats up AND cools evenly. Filling the bed up against the barrel would affect cooling along the bottom. It would also transfer the tripod push onto the barrel. That would be like leaning the barrel against a tree instead of the stock or your hand. Did the stock get heavy if you filled it fully with resin?
I took the "ridges down a little on mine, kept barrel free floating but stiffened it up. love it
so what happened to the free floating barrel hmm instead of filling it with useless bondo you could have used stiffing rods and epoxy the ends of them to stff up the stock better yet for the time and money get a boyds stock or have one custom built out of wood on a cnc twisting in the forarm means nothing as long as the action itself is tight the barrel will sit where it wants to
Even the new version stock is flexy but not as bad as this type. This is a good idea.
this is what not to do when your bedding a rifle!! bed the damn action not the front end of it or buy some barrel tape before you bed it like that ffs
Wow so you bedded the entire barrel an un-freefloated it. Good job genius
I was in shock too. I would fill the voids with BBs, then use accraglass over top, I would also get rid of the tip of the stock where it touches the barrel.
Old timers used to bed the action and barrel all the time. Free float is overrated. Pre64 Winchester 70's have the barrel tight against the wood the full length of the barrel and an action bolt that screws into the barrel. I've shot 3/4 inch groups at 200 yards with one in 270 .
@@jasonsimone3523that goes against what all gunsmiths have told me over my 45 years of shooting. You would be hard pressed to find any gunsmith that would agree with you.
@@jasonsimone3523 I doubt it
NULA does that with their rifles on purpose. Of course that is a thin lightweight barrel. I agree with the first poster though, but I was thinking fill with foam then a layer of bedding in the whole channel and a couple layers of tape around barrel.
The reason why there is less flex is because the stock is literally molded to the barrel. I'm guessing that the barrel harmonics and oscilation is consistent since there is full contact throughout the length of the barrel. Why didn't he put release agent on the tape that way he wouldn't have to file it off?
Had the same problem, tried several things. All the problems went away when I got a Boyd’s stock. Save your money.
Quiwi neutral shoe was makes a good releasing agent and can be used on the top of the stock or on top of the tape to make the epoxy easier to remove.
Kiwi
All that work doesn't mean much without knowing if the bedding process improved the accuracy. What's the update?
What is the difference between bedding the barrel all the way up the stock versus keeping the barrel free floating but filling the voids in the forensic to stiffen it?
A stiffer forend but less accurate because now the barrel isn't free floating
Yup, I used Bondo glass on my Savage also, great stuff!
All that time, materials and money when ya just could've bought a Boyd's stock. You bedded the V blocks rendering them lost when the day comes to replace the stock. The stock will still flex from the action thru the grip area...
that is how I remedied the issue, Boyds Prairie hunter with a timney trigger. Sub 1/2moa 22-250.
Dude, that used to be a free floating barrel, why would you bed the stock to your barrel? Makes no sense to me.
You did it the hardest way possible
Crack is sold in grams and weed in ounces. Im telling you right now that rifle is destroyed because of crack or weed, maybe both!. Barrel harmonics are now gone!
I was thinking the guy might have been high when he did this video.
I just got a Ruger American .308 Predator. The fore end on it has a different design where it has some cross pieces molded in to make it more rigid. I am trying to keep the weight down and would like to keep it a free floating barrel. I was wondering if bedding the action would help accuracy and make it a bit more rigid. It has the aluminum blocks in it that the action mounts to mainly just that little section in front of the front screw about 1.5 inches or so.
I thought you wanted to free float the barrel ????
When bedding the entire forend, is it better to let the weight of the barrel dictate the bed, or to hang weight off the front sling swivel stud to create upward force on the barrel when removed? Asking for a Ruger m77 mkii.
I would suggest fiberglass body filler or Rockite and sand to free float the barrel........JB plastic weld the tang and around the pillar area. Also use neutral shoe polish as a release agent........The barrel will have to free float for barrel harmonics .........yet make the stock solid. Also, peel away the bedding after it has set for 2 hours. Total cost......$20 bucks...
is it a good idea to drill some holes in the cell dividers? To make the resin effectively become one piece with divisions as opposed to a series of divided sections filled with resin or whatever.
A really easy and cost effective way to fill the stock and for end is to melt down a few plain household candles and poor into stock just before it solidify's. It's is so easy and works brilliantly with out any mess.
Until the first shot on a cold winter morning.... :)
Yeah that definitely gonna last very well.
This rifle in it's stock configuration shoots better than 99% of the wannabe Rambo's out there. I just shimmed mine now a dollar bill goes from front to back, stock twist isn't a factor.
Great video if you want the ENTIRE forend of the stock contacting the barrel. WTH?
Exactly...SMH
Hey guys wasn't the idea was to keep the 3rd round from flying off because the barrel was too hot?
I am surprised that he did not just fill it all with epoxy and permanently gluing the barrel to the stock. This guy is one french fry short of a happy meal.
I just bought a Boyd's for my Ruger 270... Problem...s solved
I don’t know why the flexing is such a problem? My first Ruger American Predator shot 6.5 Creedmore , and I’m not jerking anyone around, half inch at 200 yards. I used hornady 140 grain ELD Match. Rifle for the money is awesome. I’ve owned several bench rest rifles and shot competitively, if my new predator in .308 shots as well life will be good!
I put a Boyd's stock on my Ruger American ranch 450bushmaster and it does alot better. Especially for recoil on that round.
My at-one stock is on the way....
Remember to clean the plastic of and waxes used in the manufacturing and score the plastic with a sanding.
This is not the correct way to bed the action this guy does not have a clue
I'm confused but I am also pretty inexperienced. I spent alot of time getting rid of material to make sure nothing came in contact with the barrel. But it looks like everything is contacting after bedding. Is there an advantage to glass bedding over free floating? Thank you
Shawn, this is know as pressure bedding the barrel - been done with success forever. Compared to the stock he started with, it is leaps and bounds better.
@@Chuck_Carolina thank you
What am I missing here?!?!? Why are you bedding the front of the stock?!?!? You suppose to bed only the action to stock... Not the barrel!
It's an older technique that is sometimes still done.
Full length bedding of the barrel completely dampens barrel harmonics and usually results in very tight groups and very good consistency from shot to shot! I once full length bedded the barrel on a Winchester Model 88 in .308 Win. that I shot my favorite hand loads in at the time. It shot 1 1/4 in. ave. groups prior to bedding and after bedding, it shot sub 1/2 inch MOA and do mean SUB 1/2 inch MOA! It also seals the forearm on wood stocks, reinforcing against stock warping in wet/rainy or high humidity climates. "Free Float" barrels do not always shoot their best groups without some sort of bedding, be it a pressure bed at the for-end or support bedding at and a short distance ahead of the receiver ring. Today's shooters have been wrongfully led to believe that "free floating" barrels just plain ARE where "absolute accuracy" lives, but that is not entirely true! Free Floating barrels, "generally" shoot well, but I have out shot many of them with rifles equipped with a small pressure bed at the for-end tip that applies just a few pounds of upward pressure to arrest/dampen barrel harmonics. Fully bedded barrels are stable and consistent performers!
I see no one has posted results. Is this do to the fact it did not help?
I'm betting they figured out it was the ammo and or the shooter. With a Tupperware stock, I'm not sure how much of a improvement can be made. Ruger has done a good job with the stock in this price range they were going for. Funny thing, No one makes a replacement stock for these yet.
Boyds makes a replacement WOOD stock for the Ruger American, finally! Around $130 with shipping.
First step should’ve been to buy a decent rifle stock.
Looks like it came out fantastic!!...Really want know hear the range report on this...Excellent video Bro!!
I am a little confused here. One person tells you to free float a barrel. Another tells you to glass bed a barrel. When bedding a barrel it looks like it is not free floating. When do you know which one to use/have done?
doctruptwn
Great, thanks for the response. This makes sense now-----
Why would you bed the barrel ???? After the barrel heats up about the 2nd shot you totally destroyed your accuracy.
Not all rifles shoot better with a free-floated barrel.
Actually.... A fully bedded rifle barrel will often shoot with stability and consistency that floated barrels cannot match. I owned two examples; a Remington model 700 Classic in .300 Weatherby and a Winchester model 88 in .308 Win. I bought the Remington bedded by a Gunsmith and I bedded the Winchester from stem to stern myself. The accuracy improvements to either rifle was night and day! The model 88 went from shooting 1 1/4 inch groups to 3/8ths inch at 100 yards. The Remington shot consistent .5 moa... Don't buy into all the hype regarding "Floating Barrels" being the ONLY answer to rifle accuracy my friend, there are several methods that rifles respond to very well when it comes to action and barrel bedding techniques!
What did stiffening the forend accomplish?
What sort of 5-10 shot groups did the rifle shoot at 100 yards or more before the bedding. And What sort of groups does it shoot after with the same ammo and distance, preferably similar temp and wind.
I would like to know how effective this is before I think about trying it on my american in 6.5 creedmoor, witch shoots ok out to 1000yrds it will produce a 20in group with the majority of the shots in a 6in group. I was hoping that either bedding the barrel or filling the fore grip to reinforce and not allow it to touch the barre may put all the shots in the 6in group at 1000yrds.
Just get a Boyd's laminated wood stock for $99 and you won't have to bed it. It'll make your platform much more stable than if you bedded it in the plastic stock.
I see that you do not have the aluminum v-blocks that beds your action. Looks like yours is part of the plastic stock. Must be an older version!
The V-Blocks were "ceracoated" when he painted the stock. Personally, I would have taped them off before painting, but to each his own....
You should fix boats not guns.
What thread size are the action screws. I can't seem to find that info anywhere.
LostInChat I'm a little late but 1/4"x28.
Why waste all that time working on a 399.00 rifle? It's like installing new leather uppers on plastic Chinese boots.
Does anyone here know if the tech Ruger employed here just does not work ? Or is it just user error , technique error by rifleman ?
the ruger american is a budget hunting rifle, not designed to shoot 5 shot groups on the range all day. the first and second shot group tight, after that heating affects subsequent shots, two shot group on a bolt hunting gun is usually one more than you need
Ridiculous nowadays you can just get magpul hunter stock without all this hassle and added weight.
Why not buy a good stock, O by the way show me the 1000 yard target from that gun. You should be able to find it in the next county.
How not to bed an action. Later in replies he says he is going to remove material to free float it again. Would be wiser to just increase the free float with a Dremel so the barrel wouldn't touch as all this silly work for nothing. BTW I have bedded actions and free floated barrels. That flex in the stock doesn't mean anything so long as it doesn't touch the barrel. Too many people go silly over the little bit of flex in a composite stock. Most of them don't know what the heck they are talking about. It's just an online talking point.
Whenever I see someone use a file to cut in both directions, it makes my nerves act up. It's a sign that hand craftmanship is not their specialty.
So long...!
I have one of these stocks for sale, Go Wild, takes AICS mags.
Have you shot it
Honestly didn't find it interesting .. that was a bad job man.. maybe it was your first time doing this?? But you should have just told them to buy a new stock and prob fixed .. this was hard to watch
Yeap, that's what you do when you are broke and don't have shit better to do...
NO ONE SAID LIFE WAS FAIR AND IF WE WERE ALL EQUAL FINANCIALLY, IT WOULD BE ONE HELL OF AN UNBALANCED WORLD.
By the lack of comments from the poster, I assume this worked out horribly. Can't say I would ever do this.
My thought exactly.
I own a Ruger American however I would just throw the stock in the trash rather than going to these extremes it's no good just another marketing ploy to get you to buy the rifle the gun is ok just needs a stock right out of the box!
Can I have your stock? I'll pay shipping.
Daniel Meyer I have discarded it already sorry contact Ruger I'm sure they would send you a replacement however check out Boyd's gun stocks I bought my replacement from them and it is nice. You will have to bed the recoil lug area it will be free floated. Good luck sir.
I'm aware of Boyd's, and I will probably get one someday. I want to try painting a plastic stock, but I want a fall-back if I mess it up. Thanks for replying.
Daniel Meyer Watch out for Boyds sales, I have bought a stock from them for i think $59 before during one of their sales. It was one of the more plain praire hunter stocks but it has a great comb and was exactly what that rifle needed. I have a few of their stocks and really like their thumbhole stocks. Its about 99% drop in, and was east to inlet and to bed.
Thanks! I will keep an eye out.
I got wood....
If you’ve still got it after this long I would consider seeing a doctor
Paint on a pig. Buy a quality stock and be done.
Good video. I'd never attempt to bed a stock as I don't think my attention span would permit it.... lol.
It would be nice to know how it does down the road. Thanks for the video!
1.75 playback speed ;)
Results? How did it shoot?
nice job hope it works four you
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Don't buy the new ruger they look like junk, And if it looks like junk it is.
You can't be further from the truth! Read and research... they are comparable to more expensive precision target rifles for a whole lots less money. They are used for over 1000 yards and over shooting comps. Shoot lots and stay safe.
I don't have to read or research.... I went to buy one when it came out of the box it had oil all over it. SO that just means it's going to rust the first time it gets wet. I tried the bolt and it is junk and will not last. you'll be lucky if you get two years out of this gun before you have to start working on the gun. and by the way I'm talking about the .22 and the 17HMR. But with that said if all of the American rifles are made the same way there on better. Try the Ruger 77/22 or the 77/17Hmr than tell me I'm wrong. Get back to me once the gun gets wet and show a picture of all the rust you find and you will find RUST . I'm sure of that
Grover Alsept my cousin has had the ruger American chambered in .270win since 2015. After barrel break in, he is shooting 1/4"-1/2" at 100yds no problem. Still shooting the same today. 300yd group is 1"-2"... I would say that is pretty good for a junk gun...only thing we done was sand out a little at the front of the stock to free float it..
@@bigshowthe-tn-redneck2471 Agreed. I have the RA Predator in 22-250 and the RA in 7mm08. Both rifles shoot at or just a bit over .5 inch at 100 yards and are as reliable and solid as my Remingtons, Tikka and CZ rifles. I think Grover is having some kind of bad dreams... ;)
@@rickalsept4740 lol you should stick to drinking Bud Lite and leave shooting to real men
i purchased a ruger american the accuracy is terrible it has a rifling issue the gun is junk i am contacting ruger monday
+levi ridge I see you go to every ruger video and post the same crap
Levi, maybe the "Shooting Sports" just isn't your game... ;)