2024 Black Friday detailing product sales and my product recommendations - LINKS IN DESCRIPTION
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SAFE WINTER WASH! Beginner guide to coin-operated car wash #diydetail #rinselesswash #detailing
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Safe and effective process and tools for rinseless washing in the winter and freezing weather
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- Опубліковано 27 лис 2024
Great tips for a winter wash Mike! Being from Ct I know our roads look identical with with Calcium Chloride, Sodium Chloride dropping from a tank from a truck and sticking to the roads is some nasty stuff! One product I been using for 15 years now is called Eastwood Salt Neutralizer. Its only job is to neutralize and break it down before rinsing. So easy to use. One gallon makes 21 gallons. I dilute 3oz per half gallon and soak the brine for 2-3 min then rinse. This leaves no protection behind, others do leave something behind. The last thing you want to do is rinse. As your just reactivating the brine and pushing it into paint, cracks and crevices farther. Soo when I start my Rinseless, my car has Absolutely No Salt on it!
Your videos are becoming top notch and I enjoy your delivery. Keep it up
Thanks a ton!
One of the best winter wash videos I have seen. Small sections with warm water is key. Thanks
Wow, thank you!
Thanks for the winter wash tips, I definitely look forward to suffering less this winter! Also, I know filming takes time and appreciate the sacrifice to film this in the cold. A lot of us have to wash outside so it's great to have someone not in a climate-controlled environment doing these demonstrations and reviews.
Appreciate the kind words
Very good tips, especially for the winters here in PA. I also don't have a heated garage so I'll be using this process for my winter washes. Getting all of the salt off of the panels usually isn't too bad, but the problem is usually the wheels and the fender wells.
Wheels are a different ballgame. I'd suggest using the coin op bay, doing a really good deep clean, and apply a sealant or a spray on spray off product to your rims. Will make cleaning easier through the winter. I guess that's another video idea!
Tons of great information in here, thank you for sharing!
I have stopped using any sealant as a drying aid as it was killing my drying towels. now I just use a basic detailer for drying and then add a spray wax/sealant as a topper after it's dry.
What’s your favourite drying aid without protection? This is also my preferred method as of late
same... i use 3d spray detailer.
@@BreezeMW I use Mitchell & King's QD, I use there Glace or Wax+ as a topper after I have dried it. I only use the Wax+ over the winter when I like the extra protection, Glace is a carnauba spray wax and looks amazing on top of one of their paste waxes.
I buy gallons of either rags to riches or 3D Towel Kleen and always toss drying towels in a couple gallons of water mixed with 1ounce microfiber detergent to break down anything I may have used in the drying process. I've found no ill effects from any products I have used in the drying process when using this method. I soak the towels for a day or two until I have enough to do a load of towels and then I wash them as normal. I think I have gone through a gallon or two this year, which when buying during sales, means roughly 40 bucks worth of detergent.
my winter wash is as follows: pressure wash using rinseless wash running in my Ryobi cordless power washer, then dry using waterless wash as the drying aid. 6 steps (chemical, rinse, chemical, agitation, dry, protect) are combined into 2 steps, and no running water needed.
Are you doing no contact wash before hitting it with the drying towel? That takes guts.
@@TheOutdoorDetailer the pressure wash with rinseless both encapsulates and rinses off grit, so only road film is left behind, plus the waterless wash as the drying aid creates a lot of lubrication and cleaning power for the drying towel (and I use 4 gauntlet drying towels to avoid marring)
Do you put rinseless in the bucket of water you use for your cordless power washer ?
@@tafl-9198 yes, 256:1 rinseless blasted on the vehicle
Nice video, Mike! Thanks.
Double use of my BBQ gloves... I didn't even think of that... great idea.
Glad to help. I think in the original video I made that git traded, I mentioned how well the cotton gloves work moving smoked meats around when paired with the nitrile gloves.
Diva sold out, probably thanks to your other video. I got one GOAT towel. . .but it just gets too wet too fast and those towels take forever to dry. I've tried the rapid dry towel 2.0 and I'm afraid it marrs the paint. I'm gonna try the gauntlet yet. I've learned I don't like edgeless, the border makes it more controllable. Can't wait for the DIVA to get back in stock.
Oh no! I'm going to have to talk to EC if the Diva sold out. I need one for the giveaway!
By the way your the outdoor detail beast.
Lol too funny. 😆 thank you though.
@@TheOutdoorDetailer I'm a lowly apartment dweller with a budget supercar. I'm your direct target audience!
@shaungudgud3549 i appreciate it. If you haven't already signed up, check out the end of my Stay Strong detailer review. I'll be giving away a stay strong rinseless kit December 15th.
The video you mentioned, was it with two guys at an appartement parking lot? I watched that too, in their defense: it was pretty cold for them 😂
I was a bit disappointed too, so thanks for your video with useful tips.
Lol could have been. 😆 🤣 😂
Great tips! Not looking forward to winter for sure still tho lol
Take that stained sponge and put it in a bucket of hot water with some car soap.
Did this with my UBS after I rinsed it out in hot water. Next day the water was completely muddy and there was dirt at the bottom of the bucket.
Should have filmed it 🤦♂️
Maybe worked for you, but this is truly stained black. Even soaked in APC for a few days at one point. I gave up and just make a joke about it now.
Good tips
Viewers, consider using multiple clean MF towels instead of a sponge. You will use less solution perhaps wasing 4 cars with one gallon of rinseless. Yes, per-soak (spray) rinseless onto surface, then with clean a section of with the towel, perform your rinseless. I never dip dirty towels back into solution (rinseless). Any solution left over can be used next week for your wash. This process is very economical. Fortunately, I have a garage. Do not forget your your door jams!
You're not cleaning multiple cars with one gallon. You will be able to do one car that's fairly clean, as I've shown in the Angelwax video, but not multiple.
Do you leave the car engine running with the heater on while you wash the car?
I do not. Having it warmed up previous leaves it warm enough for the 20 or 30 minutes it takes to do a rinseless wash. if you left the heater running, the glass would dry very quickly and then you would need to spray again just to dry.
Nice!!!!
If the car is dirty I start with apc pre wash with ik sprayer let it for1-2 minutes and then I use rinse less on top when is time to contact wash with rinse less and then dry
Not sure why you had to speak about other detailer(s) in your intro but other then that nice breakdown for those who don’t understand rinseless, and ONR is my go to rinse-less everything else is second in my opinion
Appreciate the comment.
@@TheOutdoorDetailer 🙏🏽❤️ appreciate your breakdowns
I wash my car when it's around +2c no problems.
I will never use a 'rinseless' wash however, because I don't want the risks involved, I value my clear coat too much.
This is a fallacy, that rinseless wash is somehow less safer than a traditional wash. The key in either method is rinsing any grit from the surface before you contact the paint with either a sponge or microfiber type mitt or sponge
@@TheOutdoorDetailer Yes I understand what you're saying, I worked at main dealerships as a valeter, and have been a hobby detailer for over 20 years.
I guess I didn't really explain in enough detail.
Most people use a rinseless wash, as a quick (and dirty) method, so they don't have to get the pressure washer out. It's ok (in their minds) to simply contact wash when the car isn't too dirty.
To use it properly, you would need to jetwash the paint, and pre-wash with something like a citric cleaner first.
So, my question is, why ?
What is the point.
If you need to wash the car first anyway, what advantage does a rinseless wash give you. If you have the pressure washer all hooked up to do a jetwash first, then why wouldn't you just use a pre wash, or snow foam, then use a much cheaper but just as effective shampoo.
Once again, completely incorrect. A rinseless is NO DIFFERENT than a bucket wash. A bucket wash is going to be pH neutral. You aren't spraying your car down every wash with high pH APCs or acid cleaners every wash, and if you are, you're just wasting product and time as it's completely unnecessary in most cases. The ONLY time it's necessary is if your coating is showing diminished qualities. You may do it a bit more often on an uncoated car, but not more than even once every 3 months, where you can wash weekly or even more often.
@@TheOutdoorDetailer Wow, maybe it's how I read things, but in reply to my very polite comment, you seem to have jumped on the defensive and come out swinging.
When you say 'bucket wash' I can only assume you actually mean 'shampoo' ?
So you're stating that every shampoo is going to be PH neutral ?
That is quite alarming, coming from somebody who poses as a professional detailer. There are hundreds of different shampoos, some PH neutral, some slightly acidic, some more alkaline.
If a rinseless wash is 'no different' to a 'bucket wash' (shampoo), then my point is even MORE VALID (capitals to shout like you do). As I asked and you have not bothered to answer, that statement alone proves my point ie if there is no difference, why use a much more expensive rinseless product, than a cheap shampoo ?
I wash my car usually every weekend, and because it's my own car, and I'm not charging anyone else, I can spend as much time and effort as I like. So, I do get the pressure washer out every time. Now, nowhere did I say I use a high PH APC (by high do you mean number ie PH 13/14 so alkaline, or do you mean high as in acidic (which would actually be a lower number like PH 6 or 5 ?).
I usually use (if my car isn't too dirty, so no pre-wash citric product needed, or iron remover), a Bilt Hamber snow foam, which is PH 12, but when actually on the car diluted is actually around PH 10.
I then use a cheap shampoo with a lambswool mitt as a final contact. Wheels usually come up great with just foam too, but once every few weeks I will use Bilt Hamber auto wheel which has fallout remover in, just to keep on top of the embedded iron from brakes.
I use many different products, at a time when it is required to do so, tyre gel, interior apc, etc etc, but I do use a cheap topper after every wash (P & S beadmaker), my car is ceramic coated.
My M2 always looks amazing, I am proud to say, and from over 20 years of real experience of actually washing, valeting, and detailing, I don't listen to bro' science bs, or product hype, I have learned from actual experience what works best.
@@DjNikGnashers I said what I did because of you making the silly statement that one needs a certain prewash before doing a weekly contact wash. You specifically mentioned a citric prewash. This is simply and utterly untrue. Second, the main bucket wash on a maintenance wash is nearly always pH neutral. Further, since you got into it, there is nothing really that much cheaper about standard soap in a bucket wash. Even Superior Cherry Suds is 1oz or more per gallon, which makes the gallon roughly 32 bucks a gallon equal when compared to a rinseless at 251:1, and if you are going to pre foam with another product, then you also have that cost built in as well. I understand that you think you need a high pH or low pH prewash but this is simply untrue in most cases. Why on earth would someone need to waste that much product and time on a weekly basis when it's not needed because a rinseless can do the same job, and actually do it cheaper. Plus now you actually have Labocosmetica creating a rinseless high and low pH prewash for traffic or road film.
The premise behind the channel is that 35% of the population in the US rents and may not have not have a garage, so everything is outdoor tested. It's really nice that you have a garage, but no way is it a good idea to break out the pressure washer outside in the middle of winter, especially since in most cases it isn't needed. I am sorry if you feel I attacked you, but the entire premise you were pushing is just untrue and unsupported by fact.
what was the temperature while you were doing this?
It was around 40. Not terribly cold. It's 32 outside now. Have snow and ice on the car, plus some salt after driving today. So may have a product test video dropping after my next wash.
Same here in Michigan. On Saturday we’ll see 50’s so I’ll wash my car then using rinseless 👍
What is the temperature of the water?
Haven't measured, but likely between 100 and 120. It's not so hot you can't keep your hand in it. Just needs to be warm/hot enough to easily melt ice on the surface and wipe away quickly. I'm also not looking to alter the chemical character of the wash products.
I use a portable water heater in my 5 gallon bucket of Rinseless Wash. In a matter of minutes my solution is 100 degrees! They are fantastic for Rinseless Washing in the winter!
I'm hoping it is battery operated. I can't run cords to the park or parking area. Going to check them out.
Seems like one long rolling ad
Sorry you feel that way. There are many products that can be used, and people are always asking for names of stuff to use.
@@TheOutdoorDetailer The beanie? Come on man...
Great video, but you didn't exactly pick an area of outstanding natural beauty to do it in lol.
With the time change if I record during the week I have to do it in an industrial area close to the city. It's dark just after 5pm here now. My original video was in a great place.