glad i found your channel, i understand about parts sitting in the box you cannot return, i was going to upgrade my truck 17 years ago, peace here, part there, about 65% of what i needed to swap it out, then bills hit, job change, mortgage, family, food, and what not, things get put on hold for a long time trying to get out of the hole you keep getting sucked in too, my wife just does not understand, she thinks this is going to cost a shit load and i keep telling her i have most of what is needed in my tool box, been there for 17 years waiting to complete this dream, oh well now im rambling on.
I’m in the same boat with a wife that doesn’t understand the costs in building a project. I just don’t mention the parts and the costs if I can avoid it! I know it’s less than a monthly car payment & insurance 😉🤔😇
Good information, thank you. My 05 5.3 has low oil pressure and after the oil warms up it'll actually start chattering lifters. I'm in the process of putting together another 5.3 and was looking for oil pump upgrades and ran across yours. This gives me the information I was looking for. Thanks again
This video was very informative I didn’t know that the factory oil pumps would bypass like that! Definitely something I’m gonna keep in mind with a future 6.0L build, especially because it’s gonna see higher Rpms.
Grateful for you posting this video an I'll keep an eye out for more video's. I'm about two months away from rebuilding my gen 3 5.7 out of my VX Holden commodore an are hunting around for tip an tricks. Respect from New Zealand
Toothless It sounds like you’ve got a fun ride! The one area I wish I had upgraded on my Turbo 4.8 build was the pistons/rods. I really should have upgraded to at least the Gen 4 rods and floating pin pistons; but I realized your 5.7 might be more difficult to upgrade? The 5.7 I don’t think came with any option for the full floating piston pins which is required to run the majority of Gen 4 rods. There are some oem odd ball connecting rods from 2003-04 which are the stronger Gen 4 castings but still have the presses piston pins, I’d assume they’re hard to find. The 5.7 engines have thin cylinder sleeves so be as sparring as possible if you end up needing to have the block bored oversize. Build it stronger than you think you’ll need it’s great insurance! Good luck stay tuned! JD
@@HeadFlowInc Yes I got my hands on a secondhand set of LS3 rods an are saving for pistons an cam an lifter set now. The rods only have 10,000ks on them as I got them from a mate who beefed up the LS3 bottom end. Have you done a video around porting of oil pump as I have a couple of old one's to practice on before I do the new oil pump. A part from those part above only thing I'm going to do is clean up the heads casting number 241 as they have 350,000ks on them. She gets a hard life so would be grateful for any tips on how to make her live longer. I do a little circuit track & drags in her. best way I find to clear my head when I'm ticked off. lol
The bypass is why I never shim more than .040… I know Melling had stated NOT to use hi volume pump with standard LS engines. But I have been building these engines for 20 years and have never seen an engine fail due to the pump moving too much volume. The more volume of oil, the better. But the galley passages in the block and the components will only allow the flow that they’re drilled to. One other thing that has an effect on pressure that’s rarely ever mentioned is the crank shaft chamfers on oiling holes. If you turn a factory crank, the pressure will drop just slightly due to change in the chamfers. Keep up the good work! Happy building.
I see a lot of people running the 10355 oil pumps in regular LS builds, especially turbo. I can’t contest how long those engines last because Racing engines break but I will say if I was gonna run that pump I would want to see a minimum of an 8 quart capacity in the oil pan and system, that normal easily sees 80 to 100 psi. I am definitely not saying I wouldn’t run it, but I’d make sure I had the right oil capacity to keep it fed.
steve beuchert It’s my own fault for not posting more videos, I really should commit more time to the channel like I did in the earlier years. Thanks for watching and the kind words! Check out the channel and stay tuned for more content! JD
I 'ported' an oil pump for a friend's stroker 440 Mopar engine about 35yrs ago. When it was done, he said the oil pressure gauge reacted like a tachometer. He loved it. Unfortunately, the car was stolen and we never got a long term determination on the effect of the ported pump.
Thieves suck sorry for your friends loss! Even cleaning and blueprinting an oil pump is helpful. Thanks for watching and the feedback! I hope you’re a subscriber 👍
I love your videos. I do go in the settings and set playback speed to 1.5 and save myself a lot of time without missing any info! Keep up the good work!
Your video was quite informative. This is the first time I've even seen a video regarding this much detail explaining oil pump differences and pointers as to how to port a stock oil pump and shim the spring for more pressure. I have an '06 TBSS with the LS2, but the oil pressure has always been 45 psi @ idle and 48 psi MAX @ WOT. I know that the TBSS oil pan is a poor design, not only for oil control, but also that the oil filter is relocated to the other side of the pan with long internal oil pipes to and from the filter. So I expect some added pressure loss due to the pan. I could do a little porting there to to help, but I will first try your suggestions to enhance the stock pump. Thanks again!!
They also have a heavier/stronger spring in the bypass. The 10355 pump I ported and put the stock pressure bypass spring in with a .100” shim is working great in a 6.0 build.
Be very careful modifying pressure. This is a theory of mine, not verified but worth thought. These engines have a tendency to spin cam bearings. It's because they only have one oil port that creates asymmetrical pressure on the cam (creates a hydraulic wedge). Running anything other than factory pressure can strengthen that wedge. Additionally, porting increases volume which may increase flow but will decrease pressure. It's a balancing act the factory probably thought through in their default setup. I recently spoke with a guy who did a built Gen 3 LS 6.0 for his truck. He put in a high pressure, high volume pump with factory tolerances. It spun the cam bearings (really the high pressure stuff is for lower tolerance, high RPM, race motors). Just my 2 cents. I quickly felt modifying pressure was far beyond the local machine shop, and my level of knowledge.
In your example the first thing that came to mind was oil capacity. If you increase the volume and pressure it will require a larger volume if oil in the pan/system. A good rule to follow is having 1qt of capacity for every 10# of oil pressure. In my application with the ported and shimmed oil pump I run a 7qt capacity pan/system. Even if you have a 5,5.5 or 6 qt setup it doesn’t hurt anything to run an extra quart of oil. You have an interesting theory about the cam bearings! The DOD engine would be a prime candidate to validate your theory on pressure since they run a lot more oil pressure than a non-DOD engine; 30% higher. I do not recommend running this high pressure pump in a regular engine, this was an odd one time only fix we used since the customer bought the wrong oil pump and apparently could not return it. JD
Question would his "mod and melling oil pump work for the LS376-480 crate motors - in the following situation - My brother has had an issue where the relief got stuck open "jamed" - only 7000K on engine. Zero oil pressure - this is a lapping track car mostly, so it see's high rpm often it is installed in older vett.
Using the M295HV on a fresh rebuilt engine with DOD/AFM the engine showed as low as 5psi oil pressure in idle. Some glitter was observed on the oil. The person who rebuilt the engine did not aligned the pump properly and there was visible wear on the gears. The pump was replaced with another M295HV which was aligned properly, however the idle oil pressure is still around 5psi at stable operating temperature. Is the M295HV not the adequate pump for 5.3 Gen4 engine with DOD/AFM?
I know what you mean. I have messed up my neck and can't do anything to my car or upload a new video due to my health. The waiting game on my health is killing me. So, much to do on my projects with nothing but time and can't even touch them really sux. I hope you get everything in soon.
I'm helping my friend rebuild a 2005 4.8 ls for a swap into my 49 Chevy and I was told to go with the m295hv since the motor had about 150k on it. He's the brains and its just my money haha. But we're doing a new cam, lifters, rods and all the basic stuff. Do you think that pump will be fine? Melling sells so many and i got confused between the m295 basically factory pump, the 295hv then the 10295 and 10296.
I think the customer who supplied the pump doesn’t have the extra spring? I believe you’re right the Melling website shows it should have come with an optional standard pressure spring. I’m not sure what happened with the extra spring. Thanks for watching! JD
If this is a dumb question im sorry, but we own a 09 Tahoe with DOD and it also has over 160k miles I have noticed over the past year the oil pressure is slowly getting lower and the weird thing is if its cold out it has lower oil pressure until the oil is warmed up could this be the oil pump or do you have any ideas of what direction I should start looking 👍👍💯.. thank you sir for sharing your knowledge
I highly suggest doing a DOD delete on the Tahoe the lifters used for the DOD have a history of failure. While you’re doing the complete DOD delete replace the oil pump and use the proper o-ring for the pickup tube you have. JD
Another great video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. I know at the end, you said in this situation since they were going to be at high RPMs for long periods of time, you were going with the 10355 pump with a stock spring. I'm building a twin turbo gen 3 6.0 for mostly street use. Haven't bought the oil pump yet. For that scenario, would you recommend also using the 10355 or stick with a blueprinted stock pump?
Brad McDonald It depends greatly on your oil pan capacity, increasing the volume requires 6+ quart oil pan capacity, I’d say 7+ to be safe. You should look at the Mellings 10296 pump it may fit the build out of the box. Stay tuned, I’ll update when I get the results from the lower pressure 10355 pump in the cammed 6.0. I run my ported Melling M-295 pump shimmed .100” pressure relief; works great! JD
Excellent info! I have a 2005 5.3 LS1 truck engine with 253k miles. The engine seems to have worn cam bearings as it has 42psi at cold start then goes down to under 8psi at idle after 15 minute drive. Would shimming and deburring the pump give better psi with the worn bearings to resolve this issue? Or, do you recommend replacing the cam bearings?
It could be cam bearings or it could be as simple as the o-ring failed where the pickup tube bolts to the pump a common issue. You could always shim the relief spring .075”-.100” to bump the pressure slightly and delay the internal bypass. Check the cam bearings if your inside far enough. JD
I really appreciate the work you have put in, and sharing. my question is what flex shaft motor and hand piece do you use/recommend? I have some 706's I want to practice on. p.s. I hope the pendulum of life swings to smooth sailing... Mike
Tiffany Prather Thank you, I’ve been tempted to switch to the flex shaft setup. There’s definitely benefits to the flex shaft setup as long as its good quality like the Fordom sp? brand just make sure you’re using the 1/4” shank bur setup. When I looked at the flex shaft setup they were $400-600.00 Thanks again! JD
Melling does not recommend running the 10355 oil pump with a high pressure spring in a non-DOD engine set up. You can run that pump but swap the spring to the 70# bypass spring. Or it’s recommended to have an 8+ quart oil capacity.
I just Got a melling 10296 hi pressure hi volume. According to literature, the spring selection (+15% or +10% or -10%) doesn't effect idle oil pressure! Shimming does the same job of raising bypass pressure point. What do you think about that? I've heard many conflicting info
I’ve never deleted a DOD before, I’m not sure what all gets changed. I know Melling specifies not to run their high pressure/volume pump on a none DOD engine, there must be a reason. JD
@@HeadFlowInc I've heard it's because at higher rpm the motor has a hard time letting the oil drain to the pan, and so there ends up being a lot of oil in the heads. Pressure is also potential flow, so you could be increasing pressure and decreasing effeciency by having a pump that's pumping so much oil when it doesn't have to because your bearing clearances are good
I know this is an older video, so I hope you will still respond, but I have a mellings 10355 pump that I got on a 6.0 non DOD/AFM short block that I bought off of a friend and they said it built 70 psi at idle. If I were to change the spring in it to the factory spring with the 1 thousandths shim, could I then still use this 10355 pump with the factory spring and shim on my non DOD/AFM engine? It is a sbe gen 4 6.0 with sloppy mechanics stage 2 cam and twin turbos. Thanks!
Yes the bypass spring will determine pressures, keep in mind the larger gears increase the volume. Sorry for the late response You can either shim a bone stock LS pump spring .100” or use the appropriate color spring to set the bypass pressure where you want it.
Pankaj Pal Look up the Melling 10296 oil pump it gives 18% more volume and +10# oil pressure over stock. Melling doesn’t recommend the 10355 for engines without DOD/AFM plus that pump requires 6+ quart oil pan capacity. JD
Hey, glad to see your still waking up with a pulse, I prefer waking up with one.........lol What brand of epoxy would you recommend for work inside an aluminum intake manifold??
John Parrish Good question, I’ve only used JB Weld and to be honest only a couple times ever. As long as the epoxy is safe with the fuel you’re going to use it should be fine. Sorry I wasn’t a better help it’s just not something I’ve done much. JD
@@HeadFlowInc Well, I'll just have to take a little jar of gas and another of methanol and soak some JB weld in there to find out, maybe stick it to a little piece of aluminum. Thanks
What oem pump are u referencing, is it a stock ls1 pump or an oem dod/vvt pump? The dod/vvt pump is supposed to be comparable to the melling 355 pump. I'm trying to run my oem dod/vvt pump (2010 5.3l) with the dod deleted. Im running a 7qt pan without the dod bypass in pan, I'm turbo and going to rev to 8k so I want the extra volume and pressure. However I don't quite want 120 psi at redline (using pump as is with dod delete and dod pressure relief pan deleted). Do u think I can use a melling green spring with small shim in the oem pump to achieve around 90-100psi at redline? Are melling and oem pressure relief springs interchangeable, will the presures corriate between the 2? Thanks!
Standard pressure spring shimmed .100” or the +25% spring no shim should work in the DOD pump after the delete. I’m not sure which colors indicate the different pressures please verify. JD
That’s what we did in a 6.0 build and it has great pressures. Standard pressure spring shimmed .100”. There might be a high volume spring that might work but we haven’t used them yet, the shimming the stock spring has worked well for us.
That's some good stuff to know right there and explained very well. I'm going to have to stick that in my back pocket . Do you have any good tips for porting a new set of promaxx 175 sbf heads that's going on a 347 stroker going in a 79 pinto?
79Beans 347 If you’re willing the best flow improvement comes from the bowl cut percentage and blend. Grind/Machine down a valve to 90% of the intake valve size and use it as your bowl cut template. Bowl cut percentage is slightly different between the intake and exhaust: Intake 89-90% Exhaust 86-87% Blend smoothly into the port try not to remove material on the back wall behind the guide this only increases the angle. Small things like back cutting the valves 30* will pick up a few cfm. JD
Great Video & Content Sir. Building a L94 6.2 Stroked w LS7 4.00 Crank w Panki Ti Rods w GETm Main Oil Squirters in place of AFM/Dod & Vvt delete ~ Have the Large 6 2 Escallade Oil Pan ~ Would the Squirter be close ti equivelent to Dod ^ Vvt usage Seems a ported, Shimmed Spring 355HV Pump would be appropriate ?
The 10355HV is a very good pump to run, it has the thicker/taller gears to improve Volume. The pump comes with 3 pump bypass springs so you can set how much pressure. 60#, 70# and 80# springs. Oil pressure should be set considering how much Rpm the engine will see and what clearances are used when building the engine. Note: if you use the highest pressure relief you should have an oil capacity of 1qt of oil per 1000 rpms. You won’t need to shim the relief. JD
Dylan Anderson That’s not bad pressure numbers, the only issue I know of is the pump has already started internally bypassing oil above +- 53# of pressure which lowers the available volume. If/when you’re in side the front cover you could shim the bypass spring .075”-.100” to help if you’re going to rev 6500+ rpm regularly. Thanks for watching and the feedback! Stay safe and stay tuned! JD
Because a non-DOD setup has less restriction, if you run the high pressure/high volume pump you run the chance of sucking the oil pan too low causing engine failure. The 10355 is made for the DOD style engine. JD
Usually bad o-ring at the oil pump pickup tube. Re-using a cam plate during a cam swap can cause low oil pressure and noisy lifters. Trashed cam bearings can affect oil pressure. I would say it depends greatly on what’s been done to the engine. JD
Porting the pump increases efficiency by smoothing the flow path. Shimming the relief spring raises the bypass pressure and allows the pump to provide a slightly increased pressure. Higher volume is best established with larger/taller pump gears to mechanically force more oil into the engine. Higher volume is used to supply oil to engines with wider bearing clearance or large diameter journals etc, I’m not sure what people use to mathematical decide when. Sorry I hope I was a little helpful. JD
@@HeadFlowInc Thanks for the reply. I would assume volume is insufficient if the pump can't deliver enough oil to build enough pressure to exceed relief pressure setting.
I fresh rebuilt gen IV 6.0 ly6. I put a melling 10295 pump. At start up the pressure is a little bit about 40psi. When engine is up to temp it drops about 20psi. I did some research and it seems the melling 295 is for gen III engines. Seems like I need the 10355 pump. Is this correct. Don’t know if it’s the pump or the rebuilt engine?
First, the only time you should use a 10355 oil pump is if you have active DOD VVT. The 10295 pump is a stock replacement pump, many people report low oil pressure at idle when the engine is warm. Did you delete any VVT or DOD from the engine? JD
I’ve never done the delete, I think there’s something in the oil pan needing a block off and those oil ports under the valley cover to block off/plug. I’m not sure about the front cover area. 🤔🤔🤔 You could try shimming the current oil pump bypass spring .100” to help your oil pressure issue. Cheap upgrade JD
We use 295hv pumps or 355's . Some 10295 and 10296 pumps as well for some motors. We always delete dod and vvt from gen 4 motors. Oil pressure no less than 60 and increases to over 80 with higher rpm's. Have never had a problem with the oil pumps out of the box the way they are and have built hundreds of LS motors. What you are doing is a waste of time.
@@HeadFlowInc ok what ? You are putting videos on UA-cam that are created for nothing more than putting money in your pocket. I can assure you of that.
Looking at your melling m295 porting videos, I was wondering if you would recommend the m295hv with the stock spring for a stock ls1 with 100k miles? Had 30 psi oil pressure a few days ago and now have absolutely nothing on a mechanical guage. Thanks
I recommend the Mellings pumps, having zero pressure is rare. The most common issue is a leaking o-ring at the pickup tube. I’ve heard as a test you can temporarily overfill the oil by 2-3 qts raising the oil level in the pan to see if submerging the o-ring under the oil level makes a difference in oil pressure. Yes, I like the m295hv pumps 👍 Also there could be something plugging the pickup screen. Or something has the bypass stuck open, it’s hard to tell. Good luck let me know! JD
Ls engine run thinner oil than your old 350 so oil pressure/volume may differ on modern day engine Pop the hood on a Toyota and look at that 0 wt oil required
We’re running these pumps in 1000hp LS engines factory bottom ends with 15w-40 Rotella. In my own Turbo 4.8 I’ve been running 5w-30 full synthetic. I haven’t had any issues although plenty of people tend to think the Turbo needs a thicker conventional oil. JD
Well, I don’t think we have 10w-60 oil or at least it’s not common. I’ve been using 5w-30, thinking of switching to 15w-40 for Summer temperature. A lot depends on how loose your bearing clearances are for which weight oil to use. I’m not 100% sure how the LS hydraulic roller lifters will respond to a relatively thick oil. 🤔. Great question! JD
@@HeadFlowInc Just asking as I have a stock ls3 with a 2300 harrop blower making 654HP at the wheels on 12lbs boost baby cam and 1.8:1 crane roller rockers , crane beehive .600 springs , I am using castrol 10-60 full synthetic on a std oil pump and thought the melling may help my pressure but then I could go to a lower viscosity oil.
Your LS3 doesn’t have any DOD etc does it? I was just thinking you may need the high output pump if you still have those features but most people remove them. JD
pressure is also potential flow...but yeah, in this case I guess pressure doesn't tell the fill story. hopefully porting and shining a new oil pump will allow me to rev to 6.5k rpm without lifters pumping down
It would probably be a good idea if you made a video explaining the negatives of running over 60psi of oil pressure, you know, because you like to make such informative videos. Anybody that's not aware of the drawbacks of elevated oil pressure, you might want to do a little research into it BEFORE performing the shim mod that this guy is explaining to you. Particularly if you still have your oil sender unit/sensor filter (look it up) in place.
False information: Please stop spreading false information you think you know, when in reality you couldn’t be more wrong. Now grow up, find a life and move on. JD
There's only so much volume that oil can even go in that motor. You can't put any more than what can fit. So no you do not need a larger oil pan considering you only use maybe a quart half to completely fill that oil system. Maybe two quarts to two and a quarter with the dod system. I don't know where you got that idea but that is not the concept of a high-volume system. I've been working with high volume oil pumps ever since Chrysler put high volume oil pumps exclusively on all their V8 engines in the 1960s and up. The reason you don't use that on a non-dot engine I have no idea. But it has nothing to do with oil volume. I have seen high pressure melling oil pumps put on LS Motors after a DOD delete. I don't understand why. You still get more than enough oil pressure with a high volume pump and all high volume pump does is make sure that there is more than enough oil in the circulatory system. And oil return problems have been an issue, especially with General Motors engines. Even a few of the Chrysler engines had that problem like the original Street Hemi. When you put the much larger aftermarket oil pumps on it, you could overrun the oil return capability. But if you're building a high Performance Engine, you should also be making sure that oil return is as effective as it can be. The LS motor not having a valley that drains down onto the camshaft has to be an issue. That's the only mechanism by which the rollers on the camshaft get lubricated except the little bit that drains off of the roller rockers themselves. In the gen3 Chrysler Hemi, that doesn't work precisely because it is at such an angle that it drips off of the lifter before it ever gets to the cam lobes which require lubrication. It probably would not be hard to put some oil drain back holes into that block but I have never been into the LS motor as a general rule. I have built a couple of them, and there was enough oil being splashed around by the Piston sprayers that it was never really that big an issue.
Simple engine builder guidlines: 1gt of oil capacity for every 10# of oil pressure. 10# of oil pressure per 1000 rpms. You could argue with Smokey Yunick or the many other engineers who set the standard. Seems Simple 🤷♂️ A 10355 oil pump in a non-DOD engine can see 100 psi of oil pressure; you need more than 5.5 qts of oil.
Thanks so much it's good to hear from you again 😊 I've learned so much from you so thanks for that
glad i found your channel, i understand about parts sitting in the box you cannot return, i was going to upgrade my truck 17 years ago, peace here, part there, about 65% of what i needed to swap it out, then bills hit, job change, mortgage, family, food, and what not, things get put on hold for a long time trying to get out of the hole you keep getting sucked in too, my wife just does not understand, she thinks this is going to cost a shit load and i keep telling her i have most of what is needed in my tool box, been there for 17 years waiting to complete this dream, oh well now im rambling on.
I’m in the same boat with a wife that doesn’t understand the costs in building a project. I just don’t mention the parts and the costs if I can avoid it! I know it’s less than a monthly car payment & insurance 😉🤔😇
Good information, thank you. My 05 5.3 has low oil pressure and after the oil warms up it'll actually start chattering lifters. I'm in the process of putting together another 5.3 and was looking for oil pump upgrades and ran across yours. This gives me the information I was looking for. Thanks again
This video was very informative I didn’t know that the factory oil pumps would bypass like that! Definitely something I’m gonna keep in mind with a future 6.0L build, especially because it’s gonna see higher Rpms.
Luke Morgan Thank you, Good luck on your build! JD
@@HeadFlowInc
Unless it's a 6.2 with the oil piston squirters and the axle oiling lifters in a lsa/ls9 block..
Grateful for you posting this video an I'll keep an eye out for more video's.
I'm about two months away from rebuilding my gen 3 5.7 out of my VX Holden commodore an are hunting around for tip an tricks.
Respect from New Zealand
Toothless It sounds like you’ve got a fun ride! The one area I wish I had upgraded on my Turbo 4.8 build was the pistons/rods. I really should have upgraded to at least the Gen 4 rods and floating pin pistons; but I realized your 5.7 might be more difficult to upgrade? The 5.7 I don’t think came with any option for the full floating piston pins which is required to run the majority of Gen 4 rods.
There are some oem odd ball connecting rods from 2003-04 which are the stronger Gen 4 castings but still have the presses piston pins, I’d assume they’re hard to find.
The 5.7 engines have thin cylinder sleeves so be as sparring as possible if you end up needing to have the block bored oversize.
Build it stronger than you think you’ll need it’s great insurance! Good luck stay tuned! JD
@@HeadFlowInc Yes I got my hands on a secondhand set of LS3 rods an are saving for pistons an cam an lifter set now. The rods only have 10,000ks on them as I got them from a mate who beefed up the LS3 bottom end. Have you done a video around porting of oil pump as I have a couple of old one's to practice on before I do the new oil pump. A part from those part above only thing I'm going to do is clean up the heads casting number 241 as they have 350,000ks on them. She gets a hard life so would be grateful for any tips on how to make her live longer. I do a little circuit track & drags in her. best way I find to clear my head when I'm ticked off. lol
The bypass is why I never shim more than .040… I know Melling had stated NOT to use hi volume pump with standard LS engines. But I have been building these engines for 20 years and have never seen an engine fail due to the pump moving too much volume. The more volume of oil, the better. But the galley passages in the block and the components will only allow the flow that they’re drilled to. One other thing that has an effect on pressure that’s rarely ever mentioned is the crank shaft chamfers on oiling holes. If you turn a factory crank, the pressure will drop just slightly due to change in the chamfers. Keep up the good work! Happy building.
I see a lot of people running the 10355 oil pumps in regular LS builds, especially turbo. I can’t contest how long those engines last because Racing engines break but I will say if I was gonna run that pump I would want to see a minimum of an 8 quart capacity in the oil pan and system, that normal easily sees 80 to 100 psi. I am definitely not saying I wouldn’t run it, but I’d make sure I had the right oil capacity to keep it fed.
Thanks for the detailed video of the pump. The explanation was very nice.
Thank you for watching and for the feedback! JD
I'm surprised you don't have more subscribers
steve beuchert It’s my own fault for not posting more videos, I really should commit more time to the channel like I did in the earlier years. Thanks for watching and the kind words! Check out the channel and stay tuned for more content! JD
Excellent video thank you for the hospitality much appreciated. God Bless.
Thank you so much for all this great information
I 'ported' an oil pump for a friend's stroker 440 Mopar engine about 35yrs ago. When it was done, he said the oil pressure gauge reacted like a tachometer. He loved it. Unfortunately, the car was stolen and we never got a long term determination on the effect of the ported pump.
Thieves suck sorry for your friends loss! Even cleaning and blueprinting an oil pump is helpful. Thanks for watching and the feedback! I hope you’re a subscriber 👍
I love your videos. I do go in the settings and set playback speed to 1.5 and save myself a lot of time without missing any info! Keep up the good work!
I agree, I need to stop repeating and stay on track! Thanks for watching and the support! JD
Your video was quite informative. This is the first time I've even seen a video regarding this much detail explaining oil pump differences and pointers as to how to port a stock oil pump and shim the spring for more pressure. I have an '06 TBSS with the LS2, but the oil pressure has always been 45 psi @ idle and 48 psi MAX @ WOT. I know that the TBSS oil pan is a poor design, not only for oil control, but also that the oil filter is relocated to the other side of the pan with long internal oil pipes to and from the filter. So I expect some added pressure loss due to the pan. I could do a little porting there to to help, but I will first try your suggestions to enhance the stock pump. Thanks again!!
Volume equates to pressure in these pumps. That’s why the gears are thicker and that’s how they move more volume. Hence they make more pressure.
They also have a heavier/stronger spring in the bypass. The 10355 pump I ported and put the stock pressure bypass spring in with a .100” shim is working great in a 6.0 build.
I believe this pump is also meant for boosted engines with piston squirters. Like the Lsa
It’s very possible, I’m just not up to speed on the LT series engine.
I add a dorman 625-340 engine oil cooler line with radiator engine oil cooler on my 2002-2006 Chevy avalanche and melling 10295,run great
Oil coolers can be a big help! Thanks for the feedback I appreciate it! JD
Be very careful modifying pressure. This is a theory of mine, not verified but worth thought. These engines have a tendency to spin cam bearings. It's because they only have one oil port that creates asymmetrical pressure on the cam (creates a hydraulic wedge). Running anything other than factory pressure can strengthen that wedge. Additionally, porting increases volume which may increase flow but will decrease pressure. It's a balancing act the factory probably thought through in their default setup. I recently spoke with a guy who did a built Gen 3 LS 6.0 for his truck. He put in a high pressure, high volume pump with factory tolerances. It spun the cam bearings (really the high pressure stuff is for lower tolerance, high RPM, race motors). Just my 2 cents. I quickly felt modifying pressure was far beyond the local machine shop, and my level of knowledge.
In your example the first thing that came to mind was oil capacity. If you increase the volume and pressure it will require a larger volume if oil in the pan/system. A good rule to follow is having 1qt of capacity for every 10# of oil pressure.
In my application with the ported and shimmed oil pump I run a 7qt capacity pan/system. Even if you have a 5,5.5 or 6 qt setup it doesn’t hurt anything to run an extra quart of oil.
You have an interesting theory about the cam bearings! The DOD engine would be a prime candidate to validate your theory on pressure since they run a lot more oil pressure than a non-DOD engine; 30% higher.
I do not recommend running this high pressure pump in a regular engine, this was an odd one time only fix we used since the customer bought the wrong oil pump and apparently could not return it. JD
@@HeadFlowInc makes since. thx ;)
Question would his "mod and melling oil pump work for the LS376-480 crate motors - in the following situation - My brother has had an issue where the relief got stuck open "jamed" - only 7000K on engine. Zero oil pressure - this is a lapping track car mostly, so it see's high rpm often it is installed in older vett.
Using the M295HV on a fresh rebuilt engine with DOD/AFM the engine showed as low as 5psi oil pressure in idle.
Some glitter was observed on the oil. The person who rebuilt the engine did not aligned the pump properly and there was visible wear on the gears.
The pump was replaced with another M295HV which was aligned properly, however the idle oil pressure is still around 5psi at stable operating temperature.
Is the M295HV not the adequate pump for 5.3 Gen4 engine with DOD/AFM?
The DOD/AFM requires the Melling 10355 pump. But only seeing 5# if look at my cam bearings. JD
@@HeadFlowInc Thanks for the response.
That have been my suspicion. Engine will come out soon...
Great video man...
We’re still waiting for the engine to fire with this modified 10355 pump, it’s frustrating waiting! Thanks for the support! JD
I know what you mean. I have messed up my neck and can't do anything to my car or upload a new video due to my health. The waiting game on my health is killing me. So, much to do on my projects with nothing but time and can't even touch them really sux. I hope you get everything in soon.
Great video. Thanks!
I'm helping my friend rebuild a 2005 4.8 ls for a swap into my 49 Chevy and I was told to go with the m295hv since the motor had about 150k on it. He's the brains and its just my money haha. But we're doing a new cam, lifters, rods and all the basic stuff. Do you think that pump will be fine? Melling sells so many and i got confused between the m295 basically factory pump, the 295hv then the 10295 and 10296.
Very informative
Why do the 10355 oil pump have a hole in it on the front left hand side. And what does it help out with
I think you’re referring to a hole left from a bolt hole process. No affect
That Melling 10355 pump should come with 2 springs?
I think the customer who supplied the pump doesn’t have the extra spring? I believe you’re right the Melling website shows it should have come with an optional standard pressure spring. I’m not sure what happened with the extra spring. Thanks for watching! JD
Good video! What pump do u recommend I use on my 08 Silverado 5.3 with 10lbs of boost at 6k rpm? I'm going to do dod delete and a bigger cam.
Melling 10296 unless you have a 8qt+ oil pan setup. 👍
If this is a dumb question im sorry, but we own a 09 Tahoe with DOD and it also has over 160k miles I have noticed over the past year the oil pressure is slowly getting lower and the weird thing is if its cold out it has lower oil pressure until the oil is warmed up could this be the oil pump or do you have any ideas of what direction I should start looking 👍👍💯.. thank you sir for sharing your knowledge
I highly suggest doing a DOD delete on the Tahoe the lifters used for the DOD have a history of failure. While you’re doing the complete DOD delete replace the oil pump and use the proper o-ring for the pickup tube you have. JD
Another great video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. I know at the end, you said in this situation since they were going to be at high RPMs for long periods of time, you were going with the 10355 pump with a stock spring. I'm building a twin turbo gen 3 6.0 for mostly street use. Haven't bought the oil pump yet. For that scenario, would you recommend also using the 10355 or stick with a blueprinted stock pump?
Brad McDonald It depends greatly on your oil pan capacity, increasing the volume requires 6+ quart oil pan capacity, I’d say 7+ to be safe. You should look at the Mellings 10296 pump it may fit the build out of the box.
Stay tuned, I’ll update when I get the results from the lower pressure 10355 pump in the cammed 6.0.
I run my ported Melling M-295 pump shimmed .100” pressure relief; works great! JD
@@HeadFlowInc Sounds good. Thanks for the reply. Love your channel.
Excellent info! I have a 2005 5.3 LS1 truck engine with 253k miles. The engine seems to have worn cam bearings as it has 42psi at cold start then goes down to under 8psi at idle after 15 minute drive. Would shimming and deburring the pump give better psi with the worn bearings to resolve this issue? Or, do you recommend replacing the cam bearings?
It could be cam bearings or it could be as simple as the o-ring failed where the pickup tube bolts to the pump a common issue.
You could always shim the relief spring .075”-.100” to bump the pressure slightly and delay the internal bypass.
Check the cam bearings if your inside far enough. JD
I really appreciate the work you have put in, and sharing. my question is what flex shaft motor and hand piece do you use/recommend? I have some 706's I want to practice on. p.s. I hope the pendulum of life swings to smooth sailing... Mike
Tiffany Prather Thank you, I’ve been tempted to switch to the flex shaft setup. There’s definitely benefits to the flex shaft setup as long as its good quality like the Fordom sp? brand just make sure you’re using the 1/4” shank bur setup. When I looked at the flex shaft setup they were $400-600.00
Thanks again! JD
I have Yukon Denali 6.2 2013 I have cancelled the dod can I install the 10355 oil pump?
Melling does not recommend running the 10355 oil pump with a high pressure spring in a non-DOD engine set up. You can run that pump but swap the spring to the 70# bypass spring. Or it’s recommended to have an 8+ quart oil capacity.
I just Got a melling 10296 hi pressure hi volume. According to literature, the spring selection (+15% or +10% or -10%) doesn't effect idle oil pressure! Shimming does the same job of raising bypass pressure point.
What do you think about that? I've heard many conflicting info
Thank u sir.. stay blessed.
You too stay safe! 🙏🏻
Is there really any good reason not to run the high volume high pressure one I mean it's not a problem on dod deleted trucks right
I’ve never deleted a DOD before, I’m not sure what all gets changed. I know Melling specifies not to run their high pressure/volume pump on a none DOD engine, there must be a reason. JD
@@HeadFlowInc I've heard it's because at higher rpm the motor has a hard time letting the oil drain to the pan, and so there ends up being a lot of oil in the heads. Pressure is also potential flow, so you could be increasing pressure and decreasing effeciency by having a pump that's pumping so much oil when it doesn't have to because your bearing clearances are good
I know this is an older video, so I hope you will still respond, but I have a mellings 10355 pump that I got on a 6.0 non DOD/AFM short block that I bought off of a friend and they said it built 70 psi at idle. If I were to change the spring in it to the factory spring with the 1 thousandths shim, could I then still use this 10355 pump with the factory spring and shim on my non DOD/AFM engine? It is a sbe gen 4 6.0 with sloppy mechanics stage 2 cam and twin turbos. Thanks!
Yes the bypass spring will determine pressures, keep in mind the larger gears increase the volume. Sorry for the late response
You can either shim a bone stock LS pump spring .100” or use the appropriate color spring to set the bypass pressure where you want it.
Can you run a standard pump on a dod engine if your deleting the dod system and changing the camshaft
Yes as long as you swap the cam/lifters and block off the oil galleys associated with the DOD with a plate made for it or by tapping/plugging. JD
Does your engine have VVT? Variable valve timing? If so I'd still use a high pressure oil pump such as this melling 10355
Thank you sir.
Thanks for watching I hope you subscribe! 👍
Can u use melling 33% oil pump in LS1 with AFR 215cc heads
Pankaj Pal Look up the Melling 10296 oil pump it gives 18% more volume and +10# oil pressure over stock. Melling doesn’t recommend the 10355 for engines without DOD/AFM plus that pump requires 6+ quart oil pan capacity. JD
HeadFlowInc thank you
Hey, glad to see your still waking up with a pulse, I prefer waking up with one.........lol
What brand of epoxy would you recommend for work inside an aluminum intake manifold??
John Parrish Good question, I’ve only used JB Weld and to be honest only a couple times ever. As long as the epoxy is safe with the fuel you’re going to use it should be fine. Sorry I wasn’t a better help it’s just not something I’ve done much. JD
@@HeadFlowInc Well, I'll just have to take a little jar of gas and another of methanol and soak some JB weld in there to find out, maybe stick it to a little piece of aluminum.
Thanks
What oem pump are u referencing, is it a stock ls1 pump or an oem dod/vvt pump? The dod/vvt pump is supposed to be comparable to the melling 355 pump. I'm trying to run my oem dod/vvt pump (2010 5.3l) with the dod deleted. Im running a 7qt pan without the dod bypass in pan, I'm turbo and going to rev to 8k so I want the extra volume and pressure. However I don't quite want 120 psi at redline (using pump as is with dod delete and dod pressure relief pan deleted). Do u think I can use a melling green spring with small shim in the oem pump to achieve around 90-100psi at redline? Are melling and oem pressure relief springs interchangeable, will the presures corriate between the 2? Thanks!
Standard pressure spring shimmed .100” or the +25% spring no shim should work in the DOD pump after the delete.
I’m not sure which colors indicate the different pressures please verify. JD
Thanks!
So you are saying it's ok to run DOD style pump if you use standard on DOD pump spring shimmed .100 correct thanks in advance Robert
That’s what we did in a 6.0 build and it has great pressures.
Standard pressure spring shimmed .100”.
There might be a high volume spring that might work but we haven’t used them yet, the shimming the stock spring has worked well for us.
Is there away I can get in touch with you about porting an oil pump for me?
Yes, jeffdubray@gmail.com
I’m in West/Central Missouri 64730
@HeadFlowInc thanks, just send you an email
That's some good stuff to know right there and explained very well. I'm going to have to stick that in my back pocket . Do you have any good tips for porting a new set of promaxx 175 sbf heads that's going on a 347 stroker going in a 79 pinto?
79Beans 347 If you’re willing the best flow improvement comes from the bowl cut percentage and blend. Grind/Machine down a valve to 90% of the intake valve size and use it as your bowl cut template.
Bowl cut percentage is slightly different between the intake and exhaust:
Intake 89-90%
Exhaust 86-87%
Blend smoothly into the port try not to remove material on the back wall behind the guide this only increases the angle.
Small things like back cutting the valves 30* will pick up a few cfm. JD
@@HeadFlowInc thank you I will do exactly that and I'll let you know how it goes when I get it running 👍🏻🚗💨
Great Video & Content Sir.
Building a L94 6.2 Stroked w LS7 4.00 Crank w Panki Ti Rods w GETm Main Oil Squirters in place of AFM/Dod & Vvt delete ~ Have the Large 6 2 Escallade Oil Pan ~ Would the Squirter be close ti equivelent to Dod ^ Vvt usage
Seems a ported, Shimmed Spring 355HV Pump would be appropriate ?
The 10355HV is a very good pump to run, it has the thicker/taller gears to improve Volume. The pump comes with 3 pump bypass springs so you can set how much pressure. 60#, 70# and 80# springs.
Oil pressure should be set considering how much Rpm the engine will see and what clearances are used when building the engine.
Note: if you use the highest pressure relief you should have an oil capacity of 1qt of oil per 1000 rpms.
You won’t need to shim the relief. JD
I have a stock 5.3oil pump in my swap. It’s about 25-30 psi at idle. At 6500 it’s about 55 ish psi. Do you see any issue with that?
Dylan Anderson That’s not bad pressure numbers, the only issue I know of is the pump has already started internally bypassing oil above +- 53# of pressure which lowers the available volume. If/when you’re in side the front cover you could shim the bypass spring .075”-.100” to help if you’re going to rev 6500+ rpm regularly. Thanks for watching and the feedback! Stay safe and stay tuned! JD
What would happen if you did run it in a dod afm engine!? I have one that the afm has been deleted via drive time I guess !!
Because a non-DOD setup has less restriction, if you run the high pressure/high volume pump you run the chance of sucking the oil pan too low causing engine failure.
The 10355 is made for the DOD style engine. JD
What does low oil pressure at idle indicate?
Usually bad o-ring at the oil pump pickup tube.
Re-using a cam plate during a cam swap can cause low oil pressure and noisy lifters.
Trashed cam bearings can affect oil pressure.
I would say it depends greatly on what’s been done to the engine. JD
What measurement do you use to determine when higher volume is needed?
Porting the pump increases efficiency by smoothing the flow path.
Shimming the relief spring raises the bypass pressure and allows the pump to provide a slightly increased pressure.
Higher volume is best established with larger/taller pump gears to mechanically force more oil into the engine.
Higher volume is used to supply oil to engines with wider bearing clearance or large diameter journals etc, I’m not sure what people use to mathematical decide when. Sorry I hope I was a little helpful. JD
@@HeadFlowInc Thanks for the reply. I would assume volume is insufficient if the pump can't deliver enough oil to build enough pressure to exceed relief pressure setting.
I fresh rebuilt gen IV 6.0 ly6. I put a melling 10295 pump. At start up the pressure is a little bit about 40psi. When engine is up to temp it drops about 20psi. I did some research and it seems the melling 295 is for gen III engines. Seems like I need the 10355 pump. Is this correct. Don’t know if it’s the pump or the rebuilt engine?
First, the only time you should use a 10355 oil pump is if you have active DOD VVT.
The 10295 pump is a stock replacement pump, many people report low oil pressure at idle when the engine is warm.
Did you delete any VVT or DOD from the engine? JD
@@HeadFlowInc yes I did vvt delete
@@HeadFlowInc the vvt delete consist of cam swap and front engine cover swap correct?
@@HeadFlowInc and it only had vvt
I’ve never done the delete, I think there’s something in the oil pan needing a block off and those oil ports under the valley cover to block off/plug. I’m not sure about the front cover area. 🤔🤔🤔
You could try shimming the current oil pump bypass spring .100” to help your oil pressure issue. Cheap upgrade JD
We use 295hv pumps or 355's . Some 10295 and 10296 pumps as well for some motors.
We always delete dod and vvt from gen 4 motors.
Oil pressure no less than 60 and increases to over 80 with higher rpm's.
Have never had a problem with the oil pumps out of the box the way they are and have built hundreds of LS motors.
What you are doing is a waste of time.
Ok
@@HeadFlowInc ok what ? You are putting videos on UA-cam that are created for nothing more than putting money in your pocket.
I can assure you of that.
Looking at your melling m295 porting videos, I was wondering if you would recommend the m295hv with the stock spring for a stock ls1 with 100k miles? Had 30 psi oil pressure a few days ago and now have absolutely nothing on a mechanical guage.
Thanks
I recommend the Mellings pumps, having zero pressure is rare.
The most common issue is a leaking o-ring at the pickup tube. I’ve heard as a test you can temporarily overfill the oil by 2-3 qts raising the oil level in the pan to see if submerging the o-ring under the oil level makes a difference in oil pressure.
Yes, I like the m295hv pumps 👍
Also there could be something plugging the pickup screen. Or something has the bypass stuck open, it’s hard to tell. Good luck let me know! JD
Ls engine run thinner oil than your old 350 so oil pressure/volume may differ on modern day engine
Pop the hood on a Toyota and look at that 0 wt oil required
What about the rod side to side clearance with this pressure your doing
Clearance to rpm ?
We’re running these pumps in 1000hp LS engines factory bottom ends with 15w-40 Rotella. In my own Turbo 4.8 I’ve been running 5w-30 full synthetic. I haven’t had any issues although plenty of people tend to think the Turbo needs a thicker conventional oil. JD
what viscosity of oil 10-60 ?
Well, I don’t think we have 10w-60 oil or at least it’s not common. I’ve been using 5w-30, thinking of switching to 15w-40 for Summer temperature. A lot depends on how loose your bearing clearances are for which weight oil to use.
I’m not 100% sure how the LS hydraulic roller lifters will respond to a relatively thick oil. 🤔. Great question! JD
@@HeadFlowInc Just asking as I have a stock ls3 with a 2300 harrop blower making 654HP at the wheels on 12lbs boost baby cam and 1.8:1 crane roller rockers , crane beehive .600 springs , I am using castrol 10-60 full synthetic on a std oil pump and thought the melling may help my pressure but then I could go to a lower viscosity oil.
Just select the right oil pump do not use the pump designed for the DOD and you should be fine. You have a solid build making great power!!! JD
Your LS3 doesn’t have any DOD etc does it? I was just thinking you may need the high output pump if you still have those features but most people remove them. JD
Maybe it’s because everything he says sounds like a question?
Gold ⭐️
Pumps do not make pressure, pumps make flow, that why pumps are rated, generally speaking, in GPM. Pressure is the resistance to flow.
Thanks, all I know is they work and are proven performers with the porting/shimming. JD
pressure is also potential flow...but yeah, in this case I guess pressure doesn't tell the fill story. hopefully porting and shining a new oil pump will allow me to rev to 6.5k rpm without lifters pumping down
It would probably be a good idea if you made a video explaining the negatives of running over 60psi of oil pressure, you know, because you like to make such informative videos. Anybody that's not aware of the drawbacks of elevated oil pressure, you might want to do a little research into it BEFORE performing the shim mod that this guy is explaining to you. Particularly if you still have your oil sender unit/sensor filter (look it up) in place.
False information: Please stop spreading false information you think you know, when in reality you couldn’t be more wrong. Now grow up, find a life and move on. JD
There's only so much volume that oil can even go in that motor. You can't put any more than what can fit. So no you do not need a larger oil pan considering you only use maybe a quart half to completely fill that oil system. Maybe two quarts to two and a quarter with the dod system. I don't know where you got that idea but that is not the concept of a high-volume system. I've been working with high volume oil pumps ever since Chrysler put high volume oil pumps exclusively on all their V8 engines in the 1960s and up. The reason you don't use that on a non-dot engine I have no idea. But it has nothing to do with oil volume. I have seen high pressure melling oil pumps put on LS Motors after a DOD delete. I don't understand why. You still get more than enough oil pressure with a high volume pump and all high volume pump does is make sure that there is more than enough oil in the circulatory system.
And oil return problems have been an issue, especially with General Motors engines. Even a few of the Chrysler engines had that problem like the original Street Hemi. When you put the much larger aftermarket oil pumps on it, you could overrun the oil return capability. But if you're building a high Performance Engine, you should also be making sure that oil return is as effective as it can be. The LS motor not having a valley that drains down onto the camshaft has to be an issue. That's the only mechanism by which the rollers on the camshaft get lubricated except the little bit that drains off of the roller rockers themselves. In the gen3 Chrysler Hemi, that doesn't work precisely because it is at such an angle that it drips off of the lifter before it ever gets to the cam lobes which require lubrication. It probably would not be hard to put some oil drain back holes into that block but I have never been into the LS motor as a general rule. I have built a couple of them, and there was enough oil being splashed around by the Piston sprayers that it was never really that big an issue.
Simple engine builder guidlines:
1gt of oil capacity for every 10# of oil pressure.
10# of oil pressure per 1000 rpms.
You could argue with Smokey Yunick or the many other engineers who set the standard. Seems Simple 🤷♂️
A 10355 oil pump in a non-DOD engine can see 100 psi of oil pressure; you need more than 5.5 qts of oil.