Another interesting and enjoyable video, as usual, Jo. Looking forward to seeing your "Original Mecha Build Contest" Build progress. Best of luck with it.
Thanks Brian, yeah that ones slowly coming together so I'll have a video put together eventually. I'll need to start building something for the Asylum too of course 😃
@@thedarkpower Can't wait to see what you create for the August convivial. Let's hope it's a good Asylum this time. We did have a small impromptu gathering last year, social distanced, of course.😷
Cool video man. I am definitely impressed with the real human skull. I was a tattoo artist for abit 20 years before I got into sculpting and airbrush work. I really enjoy the work you are doing. Ites just awesome. Hope my input about the roto casing was helpful and I hope you get it worked out. Until the next one, God luck bro
Cheers dude, yeah it was thanks. There's abit of a learning curve with this so I appreciate the help! Ah that's interesting. I've found tattoo artists often have a variety of artists pursuits in addition to the tattooing. Thanks for watching dude, glad it's interesting 😁
Wish I had a fraction of your talent. Regarding the rotocasting, be sure you are using a resin that's meant for the task. The snap-cure of typical casting urethanes works against you when rotocasting. The urethanes meant for rotocasting have a more gradual curing curve that allows them to coat more evenly and not kick off suddenly in the clumps you are experiencing.
Thanks, yeah I'm using this stuff and it's always been fine by hand, so I think it's just working the kinks out with the machine. www.dwrplastics.com/rotoslush-casting-resin.html
@@thedarkpower Casting in itself is some form of half science, half dark art - but getting predictable/repeatable results from rotocasting takes that to yet another level. LOL Next one, I would give smaller shots of resin a try. Even the specialized roto resins will kick too fast if there's too much mass. You'll work it out - just annoying to have to 'learn the mold' with each new design.
Some people think it is the centrifugal/centripetal force that makes a rotocaster works, but it is not :) One problem that I have found is that I have to make sure the resin cures to such a degree that I don't get any sag before stopping the rotation. The resin I have is pretty slow cure, so I am trying to get a suitable motor to build a rotocaster with that I can just set & forget.
@@thedarkpower that sounds like a good idea. I've been checking for used/cheap microwave turntable motors, but I'm not sure they'll work. My models are pretty small though, not as large as yours.
Another interesting and enjoyable video, as usual, Jo. Looking forward to seeing your "Original Mecha Build Contest" Build progress. Best of luck with it.
Thanks Brian, yeah that ones slowly coming together so I'll have a video put together eventually.
I'll need to start building something for the Asylum too of course 😃
@@thedarkpower Can't wait to see what you create for the August convivial. Let's hope it's a good Asylum this time. We did have a small impromptu gathering last year, social distanced, of course.😷
Yep I'm really looking forward to it. We popped into Lincoln for the afternoon last year, it wasn't quite the same though.
Cool video man. I am definitely impressed with the real human skull. I was a tattoo artist for abit 20 years before I got into sculpting and airbrush work. I really enjoy the work you are doing. Ites just awesome. Hope my input about the roto casing was helpful and I hope you get it worked out. Until the next one, God luck bro
Cheers dude, yeah it was thanks. There's abit of a learning curve with this so I appreciate the help!
Ah that's interesting. I've found tattoo artists often have a variety of artists pursuits in addition to the tattooing. Thanks for watching dude, glad it's interesting 😁
Oh hell yeah !
Wish I had a fraction of your talent. Regarding the rotocasting, be sure you are using a resin that's meant for the task. The snap-cure of typical casting urethanes works against you when rotocasting. The urethanes meant for rotocasting have a more gradual curing curve that allows them to coat more evenly and not kick off suddenly in the clumps you are experiencing.
Thanks, yeah I'm using this stuff and it's always been fine by hand, so I think it's just working the kinks out with the machine.
www.dwrplastics.com/rotoslush-casting-resin.html
@@thedarkpower Casting in itself is some form of half science, half dark art - but getting predictable/repeatable results from rotocasting takes that to yet another level. LOL Next one, I would give smaller shots of resin a try. Even the specialized roto resins will kick too fast if there's too much mass. You'll work it out - just annoying to have to 'learn the mold' with each new design.
Some people think it is the centrifugal/centripetal force that makes a rotocaster works, but it is not :) One problem that I have found is that I have to make sure the resin cures to such a degree that I don't get any sag before stopping the rotation. The resin I have is pretty slow cure, so I am trying to get a suitable motor to build a rotocaster with that I can just set & forget.
Yeah I have an old pillar drill that I'm planning on removing the motor from. Should hopefully have enough torque and be slow enough for this.
@@thedarkpower that sounds like a good idea. I've been checking for used/cheap microwave turntable motors, but I'm not sure they'll work. My models are pretty small though, not as large as yours.
Some interesting thoughts on the rotocasting. Those teeth are creepy! Lol
Haha yeah probably one of the odder things I've ordered off ebay 🤣