Just fitted the Mountune symposer delete on my Focus. Slightly different fitting from the Fiesta. On the Focus it bolts on which makes it nice and simple. amazing how much space it frees up in the engine bay! Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the heads up! I'll have to keep tabs on my boost levels over time and see if I get boost leak. Just picked up a 2016 as my new "channel car."
Absolutely brilliant video, I have an ST as well and will be doing this in the future to my car upon your recommendation! This video was very well put together, informative and flowed well. Great camera angles showing the preparation and fitting and clear audio throughout. I appreciated your tips such as to use silicon spray and Teflon tape, I have no car engine experience and wouldn't have thought of any of that. Graph was good as were the overlays. Would like it if you had mentioned its price so I wouldn't have to look it up, that is the ONLY improvement I would suggest! Gained a subscriber :)
great info. I had a boost leak as well..both charge pipe clamps were hand tight. definatly somthing all new st owners should check. mine had 10000 kms on it.
Sir, I'm going straight home this evening to check my car for this! I bought it used, and the Symposer is quiet. I need to see if this setup is there, and if it is, I need to verify that it was correctly done. Thanks for the info!
I have yet to measure this, but I took mine off the other day and felt a minor - but noticeable - bump. I suppose that's what can happen with these all-plastic bits!
It certainly feels sharper...the internal volume of the symposer (which isn't insignificant) would in theory mean the entire inlet tract takes a little longer to reach maximum pressure when you floor the throttle. I'm going to try and bring my symposer back to life...internally it could do with a thorough clean...I reckon that some of the accumulated grime is what's causing the rubber seal to not hold the boost. I do like the noise it makes but I like boost a whole lot more!
So an easy way to tell if you're leaking boost is if the symposer stops singing into the cabin? Interesting! I was starting to worry that maybe this was happening to me, not that the car feels slower I'm just pessimistic! Haha. Getting a few things fitted on Friday, currently stock but on Friday I'll have a Revo Stage 2 map with a Milltek turboback (non res, sports cat), stage 1 intercooler and an AS performance intake kit. Figures on paper for the Revo Stage 2 seem to be a fraction better in most cases than the MR230 kit and it was a fair bit cheaper too!
It took me exactly 3 days from purchase before the Symposer noise was too annoying to stand. I just made up some plugs on the lathe because I didn’t want to wait (it was Saturday, there was already a chunk of aluminum in the lathe ... but you should just buy on from Mountune or Vudu or whoever, they are cheaper than the hour I spent making and installing them). It is now 7 days after purchase and I am still loving the quiet.
Yup. I didn't like the symposer. Plugged it, and now I can hear my radio better, and thecar is just a lot quieter. I have a CAI system that makes enough engine noise when I want to hear it.
Mark I'm paranoid that I have a slight boost leak after watching your video and reading that its a common problem for the ST180. I'm not mechanically inclined in any way unfortunately. Are there any obvious signs that I can look out for to check? I've read there are multiple boost clamps to check but I'd have to ask a garage to take a look I think.
Hi Mark, really appreciate these videos they were part of my inspiration to buy an ST. What are your thoughts on the in-cabin sound of the symposer vs an aftermarket exhaust with a symposer delete like the mountune setup you have? Keen to get a mountune cat-back for mine but dont wanna lose that nice cabin sound, even if it does sound a little artificial
Hi Joel I myself have always liked the symposer noise...it doesn't get much love from many owners but I like the growl it gives. The Mountune catback + sport cat does give enough noise (a bit too much in my opinion) to make up for losing the symposer though.
very interesting. ive got the mp215 kit and I used to get 23psi pretty normally, but recently ive notice it doesn't really go over 22.2 and on mountunes 4th gear tests it doesn't go over 21.
My total peak boost certainly seems to be lower than it once was having performed a few monthly accessport updates. I'm back on the dyno in a few weeks so I'll find out if I have the full 230 PS Mountune promise!
MarkCup70 i asked you before about the intermitant shift light and I did the firmware updates but still the same, however I seemed to feel it felt less boosty, thought it was just on my head but reading this it's not just me, let us know how your duno goes will be good to know
I'm sure a daft question, but got to ask - is the pipe from engine bay to cabin left in position now open ended? Could engine smells now travel into the cabin ?Thanks for the vids and cementing my ST purchase decision.
It is left open, yes, but I never experienced nor have I heard of anyone else getting any engine odours travelling through the pipe once disconnected...and there's a lot of STs out there! If it's any concern you could very easily and cheaply fit a bung/plug in the open end to block it off. Enjoy your ST...great choice ;)
there's a cabin air filter in place to prevent this very thing from happening. Located inside front passender side panneling at the feet, on the inside left. Look just below the feet-blowers for your A/C. There's a body fastener that holds the panel hiding the whole assembly from view. EDIT: if your car is RHD, then the location is effectively inversed, due to the location of the steering assembly if I remember correctly.
Another thing you can do is remove the hose completely and plug it off closer to the firewall as in this video: ua-cam.com/video/NwX7p6OZV7k/v-deo.html Its a lot cleaner this way.
@@mattycm I think you're confused about what the question is... It's about letting air in from the sound symposer pipe now left open in the engine bay with the other part that connects to the interior cabin somewhere. It has nothing to do with the cabin air filter that filters particulate from the Heating / Air-conditioning system. Also I don't think those filters are going to be effective in filtering out odours or fumes if your car is making smells or burning oil, you'll notice it. Cabin air filters are good at filtering large particles such as plant debris and partly effective in filtering smaller particles like dust and maybe pollen.
I've recently have done a MAPerformance cold air intake & just recently got a check engine. I plugged my obd2 & if says boost leak. You think this might be my prob ?
So, the Ford dealer I bought my brand new ST-3 from 2 weeks ago has just quoted me £75 to fit the symposer delete, I think that is a rip off. Any comments welcome.
Yep. That's a rip off! It's not that hard to do so long as you can get the hose clamps off the standard pipes...I had to buy a long reach hose clamp removal plier tool to get mine off.
If losing the symposer sound from the cabin is what you want then just removing the pipe as you said is all you need to do. You don't even need to bung it up...just disconnect, tuck it back in the engine bay, and enjoy the silence.
Yes, its those darned hose clamps. Bought special tools and spent a couple hours under the bonnet and still couldn’t get it off. So I went to the dealer and paid $82 US.
I use the Android app "Torque Pro", an OBD bluetooth transmitter and then combine the data files from that with the video to create the overlay guages using "RaceRender3" software.
Nick Smith ... it is more about lubing the taper thread so it goes in easier/further which makes it seal better. Not that it would be a big issue in this case, there is so much air in that area that the tiny amount leaking past the threads (if any) wouldn’t really be noticeable.
Hi Mate, can I ask what Data logging app hardware you use on your Fiesta please. I have just bought an ST and alway find it handy having diagnostic software at hand just incase something goes wrong.
+sparkplug964 Are you Android or Apple? If Android, like I am, get yourself a cheap Bluetooth OBD ELM327 transmitter from eBay and download the Torque Pro app. That's all you need to get started. I have one or two other videos planned first but I'll soon be doing a full video on datalogging, how to set it all up, work with the data, and overlay it onto videos and so on.
+sparkplug964 If you're Apple I believe the Bluetooth option won't work for you. I'm not 100% on the specifics but I think you need a WiFi transmitter and a suitable app to work with it. If so it's almost worth buying a cheap Android handset just for datalogging!
Thanks for that, I will check out the Torque Pro app , differently get them diagnostic videos online, you should get some good view from them which are always helpful.
Hi mark great vlogs, I have a quick question for you about the symposer delete, did you fit it before or after the induction kit, I'm having a bit of trouble with my induction kit giving me an engine light. So was thinking a delete may do the trick. Cheers
I don't think that's your problem Nigel...the symposer or delete made no difference at all to the engine running, it just eliminated a slight boost leak. I recall that certain induction kits do throw up a warning light...which kit do you have fitted?
That's not one I'm familiar with and I don't recall hearing of any problems with it. The only thing I could suggest is putting the standard airbox back on to see if that extinguishes the warning light.
I think you've found your problem. I don't know why they sometimes throw up a light...I just know that some of them have done in the past. Is it something to be concerned about? Personally I'd go back to standard and be happy that everything's as it should be...or find a kit that I know won't cause the error.
I use an OBD ELM327 bluetooth transmitter (purchased via eBay) which transmits data to a spare Android handset that I have running the Torque Pro app. Using this there's almost no limit to how much and what type of data you can capture.
I've been using it for a good few years now and it does everything I want it to. I mostly use it to just log the data...it doesn't create any dial overlays for video itself I use RaceRender3 software (which is available for free online) for that part.
Good question. I'm about to take delivery of a standard ST and I want to know what the difference in sound will be, I like a quiet car but with as much performance as possible.
Yesn't While that is it's purpose, the Symposer is connected to the boostpipe in parallel. And Because it is out of plastic, it can start to leak. So ultimately, you lose pressure. Hope I explained it alright, english is not my first language.
When you've finished logging, and from the 'Realtime' information' screen, select the settings icon, bottom left, and then choose 'Email data'. I export it as a CSV file and dump it straight into a folder on my Google drive.
Hey there, I'm having a leak somewhere, and was wondering if you can check my videos, to see if it's similar to yours? Could u let me know? Thank you friend
Hi David...I've just watched your three videos...it certainly does sound like you have a leak somewhere around the front of the engine. Does it perform as it should? Have you lost a lot of boost? Does the sound symposer generate the noise it should and feed it into the cabin?
MarkCup70 hi Mark, thanks for watching. I do feel a slight power loss, but I feel that it would be difficult to convince the dealer of it. It's very mild in terms of the lack of boost. The sound comes from the air intake. Specifically, it sounds as if the car is breathing heavily, or pushing air out (maybe both). One mechanic says it may be a DV.
The mechanic I think is on the right track...if it's coming from the air intake, and it sounds like it does it suggests to me that it's the recirc valve that's at fault...as that is what dumps unused boost pressure back into the non-pressurised side of the intake system. I don't have any experience with that part (mine's been trouble free since the car was new) so can't offer you any advice on how to go about getting it fixed though, sorry!
It was working, he didn't even realize it was leaking boost. Good luck convincing Ford to 'fix' (or get rid of?) your sound symposer under warranty because you suspect it might be leaking, or because you don't like the sound.
How did you get all this data through an app? Linked to the ECU somehow? Sensors you put in the car? So after all that you're still not getting 1.5 bar, it's improved which is good but still disappointing. Did you find the source of the rest of the boost leak?
I used the 'Torque Pro' Android app on my phone, connected to the car via a bluetooth OBD plug. Something like this; www.amazon.co.uk/Wonolo-Bluetooth-Scanner-Diagnostic-Vehicle/dp/B07VXV5HQX Then with the data and a little Excel manipulation I used RaceRender software (racerender.com/RR3/Features.html) to combine the data as dial overlays on the video footage of my rev-counter and speedometer. Are they meant to produce more than 1.4 bar? I recall that's what the standard ST produced...but then this was quite a long time ago for me!
Just fitted the Mountune symposer delete on my Focus. Slightly different fitting from the Fiesta. On the Focus it bolts on which makes it nice and simple. amazing how much space it frees up in the engine bay! Thanks for the video.
No problem Philip. They're simple things really...but as I found out they are a little flawed in their design.
Thanks for the heads up! I'll have to keep tabs on my boost levels over time and see if I get boost leak. Just picked up a 2016 as my new "channel car."
Enjoy it, they're great cars, I'll be really sad to see mine go.
Absolutely brilliant video, I have an ST as well and will be doing this in the future to my car upon your recommendation!
This video was very well put together, informative and flowed well. Great camera angles showing the preparation and fitting and clear audio throughout. I appreciated your tips such as to use silicon spray and Teflon tape, I have no car engine experience and wouldn't have thought of any of that. Graph was good as were the overlays. Would like it if you had mentioned its price so I wouldn't have to look it up, that is the ONLY improvement I would suggest!
Gained a subscriber :)
Glad I could help! More importantly, enjoy your ST!
great info. I had a boost leak as well..both charge pipe clamps were hand tight. definatly somthing all new st owners should check. mine had 10000 kms on it.
Nice video, man. Great narration, camera work, and editing.
Just want to say, superb video this pal!
Sir, I'm going straight home this evening to check my car for this! I bought it used, and the Symposer is quiet. I need to see if this setup is there, and if it is, I need to verify that it was correctly done. Thanks for the info!
I have yet to measure this, but I took mine off the other day and felt a minor - but noticeable - bump. I suppose that's what can happen with these all-plastic bits!
It certainly feels sharper...the internal volume of the symposer (which isn't insignificant) would in theory mean the entire inlet tract takes a little longer to reach maximum pressure when you floor the throttle.
I'm going to try and bring my symposer back to life...internally it could do with a thorough clean...I reckon that some of the accumulated grime is what's causing the rubber seal to not hold the boost.
I do like the noise it makes but I like boost a whole lot more!
So an easy way to tell if you're leaking boost is if the symposer stops singing into the cabin? Interesting! I was starting to worry that maybe this was happening to me, not that the car feels slower I'm just pessimistic! Haha.
Getting a few things fitted on Friday, currently stock but on Friday I'll have a Revo Stage 2 map with a Milltek turboback (non res, sports cat), stage 1 intercooler and an AS performance intake kit. Figures on paper for the Revo Stage 2 seem to be a fraction better in most cases than the MR230 kit and it was a fair bit cheaper too!
Matt Rosell what did you run on the dyno ??
Just goes to show how many things can affect performance. I think your missing horses may be back after that increase in boost level Mark.
It took me exactly 3 days from purchase before the Symposer noise was too annoying to stand. I just made up some plugs on the lathe because I didn’t want to wait (it was Saturday, there was already a chunk of aluminum in the lathe ... but you should just buy on from Mountune or Vudu or whoever, they are cheaper than the hour I spent making and installing them). It is now 7 days after purchase and I am still loving the quiet.
Yup. I didn't like the symposer. Plugged it, and now I can hear my radio better, and thecar is just a lot quieter. I have a CAI system that makes enough engine noise when I want to hear it.
Mark I'm paranoid that I have a slight boost leak after watching your video and reading that its a common problem for the ST180.
I'm not mechanically inclined in any way unfortunately.
Are there any obvious signs that I can look out for to check? I've read there are multiple boost clamps to check but I'd have to ask a garage to take a look I think.
Hi Mark, really appreciate these videos they were part of my inspiration to buy an ST.
What are your thoughts on the in-cabin sound of the symposer vs an aftermarket exhaust with a symposer delete like the mountune setup you have?
Keen to get a mountune cat-back for mine but dont wanna lose that nice cabin sound, even if it does sound a little artificial
Hi Joel
I myself have always liked the symposer noise...it doesn't get much love from many owners but I like the growl it gives.
The Mountune catback + sport cat does give enough noise (a bit too much in my opinion) to make up for losing the symposer though.
very interesting. ive got the mp215 kit and I used to get 23psi pretty normally, but recently ive notice it doesn't really go over 22.2 and on mountunes 4th gear tests it doesn't go over 21.
My total peak boost certainly seems to be lower than it once was having performed a few monthly accessport updates. I'm back on the dyno in a few weeks so I'll find out if I have the full 230 PS Mountune promise!
MarkCup70 i asked you before about the intermitant shift light and I did the firmware updates but still the same, however I seemed to feel it felt less boosty, thought it was just on my head but reading this it's not just me, let us know how your duno goes will be good to know
I'm sure a daft question, but got to ask - is the pipe from engine bay to cabin left in position now open ended? Could engine smells now travel into the cabin ?Thanks for the vids and cementing my ST purchase decision.
It is left open, yes, but I never experienced nor have I heard of anyone else getting any engine odours travelling through the pipe once disconnected...and there's a lot of STs out there! If it's any concern you could very easily and cheaply fit a bung/plug in the open end to block it off. Enjoy your ST...great choice ;)
there's a cabin air filter in place to prevent this very thing from happening. Located inside front passender side panneling at the feet, on the inside left. Look just below the feet-blowers for your A/C. There's a body fastener that holds the panel hiding the whole assembly from view.
EDIT: if your car is RHD, then the location is effectively inversed, due to the location of the steering assembly if I remember correctly.
Another thing you can do is remove the hose completely and plug it off closer to the firewall as in this video:
ua-cam.com/video/NwX7p6OZV7k/v-deo.html
Its a lot cleaner this way.
Yeah, I'd want to block off or remove that hose completely.
@@mattycm I think you're confused about what the question is... It's about letting air in from the sound symposer pipe now left open in the engine bay with the other part that connects to the interior cabin somewhere. It has nothing to do with the cabin air filter that filters particulate from the Heating / Air-conditioning system. Also I don't think those filters are going to be effective in filtering out odours or fumes if your car is making smells or burning oil, you'll notice it. Cabin air filters are good at filtering large particles such as plant debris and partly effective in filtering smaller particles like dust and maybe pollen.
I've recently have done a MAPerformance cold air intake & just recently got a check engine. I plugged my obd2 & if says boost leak. You think this might be my prob ?
Have you logged boost/intake pressure? Get the Torque Pro app and log a few runs in gear. That's the only way to be sure.
So, the Ford dealer I bought my brand new ST-3 from 2 weeks ago has just quoted me £75 to fit the symposer delete, I think that is a rip off. Any comments welcome.
Yep. That's a rip off! It's not that hard to do so long as you can get the hose clamps off the standard pipes...I had to buy a long reach hose clamp removal plier tool to get mine off.
I'm tempted to take the hose off the output side of the symposer and bung it up.
If losing the symposer sound from the cabin is what you want then just removing the pipe as you said is all you need to do. You don't even need to bung it up...just disconnect, tuck it back in the engine bay, and enjoy the silence.
Yes, its those darned hose clamps. Bought special tools and spent a couple hours under the bonnet and still couldn’t get it off. So I went to the dealer and paid $82 US.
Higher boost in this case means you have higher combustion temp. without remap. That puts higher temp. stress on cylinder head / pistons / valves.
he just restored boost that was lost by the leak. no tune needed.
Didn’t you also have a video where you cleaned your symposer?
I did, you can find that here Adam; ua-cam.com/video/Eqh9FsIz0x8/v-deo.html
Hi Mark, what are you using for data logging?
I use the Android app "Torque Pro", an OBD bluetooth transmitter and then combine the data files from that with the video to create the overlay guages using "RaceRender3" software.
Why would you need PTFE tape on a conical thread?
Nick Smith ... it is more about lubing the taper thread so it goes in easier/further which makes it seal better. Not that it would be a big issue in this case, there is so much air in that area that the tiny amount leaking past the threads (if any) wouldn’t really be noticeable.
My god his hands are shaky.... And i guess he thinks it will still leak lol.. It won't but yea..
Hi Mate, can I ask what Data logging app hardware you use on your Fiesta please. I have just bought an ST and alway find it handy having diagnostic software at hand just incase something goes wrong.
+sparkplug964 Are you Android or Apple? If Android, like I am, get yourself a cheap Bluetooth OBD ELM327 transmitter from eBay and download the Torque Pro app. That's all you need to get started. I have one or two other videos planned first but I'll soon be doing a full video on datalogging, how to set it all up, work with the data, and overlay it onto videos and so on.
+sparkplug964 If you're Apple I believe the Bluetooth option won't work for you. I'm not 100% on the specifics but I think you need a WiFi transmitter and a suitable app to work with it. If so it's almost worth buying a cheap Android handset just for datalogging!
Thanks for that, I will check out the Torque Pro app , differently get them diagnostic videos online, you should get some good view from them which are always helpful.
Hi Mark, did you get around to making a video for the data logging?
Do you think that you would gain an increase in performance with a non faulty sound-symposer?
I will have a video up soon where I've attempted to bring my faulty sound symposer back to life.
Did I succeed? Keep checking back to find out!
Hi mark great vlogs, I have a quick question for you about the symposer delete, did you fit it before or after the induction kit, I'm having a bit of trouble with my induction kit giving me an engine light. So was thinking a delete may do the trick. Cheers
I don't think that's your problem Nigel...the symposer or delete made no difference at all to the engine running, it just eliminated a slight boost leak. I recall that certain induction kits do throw up a warning light...which kit do you have fitted?
MarkCup70
I have the forge induction kit with Ramair induction hose
That's not one I'm familiar with and I don't recall hearing of any problems with it. The only thing I could suggest is putting the standard airbox back on to see if that extinguishes the warning light.
MarkCup70
I have put the Ford stock filter back on it did turn the lights off, but surely the forge induction kit is improvement
I think you've found your problem. I don't know why they sometimes throw up a light...I just know that some of them have done in the past. Is it something to be concerned about? Personally I'd go back to standard and be happy that everything's as it should be...or find a kit that I know won't cause the error.
so am i right in thinking this will effect the sound in the cabin by removing that ?
godamighty Correct. The sound symposer is the noise generator that feeds the cabin, without it no synthesised noise is piped in.
It makes the car sounds like a true ECO shit box. I instantly bought a catless downpipe after taking out the symposer.
Grant .Pantling now the car sounds like a true eco shithouse
What software/hardware are you using to measure the car data?
I use an OBD ELM327 bluetooth transmitter (purchased via eBay) which transmits data to a spare Android handset that I have running the Torque Pro app. Using this there's almost no limit to how much and what type of data you can capture.
Great video thank you.
how does it sound like after the symposer was taken out?
Less symposery. I preferrred it with the symposer as I think the rasp it gives is a good sound!
@@MarkCup70 so you prefer the factory one ?
Hi Mark what app is this your using for these guages on yoyr phone ? Thanks
It's 'Torque Pro' Rick...running on an Android phone. I'll be doing a quick video guide to datalogging soon so keep checking back.
MarkCup70 what you think of it ? also what obd bluetooth did you get for this? Thanks
I've been using it for a good few years now and it does everything I want it to. I mostly use it to just log the data...it doesn't create any dial overlays for video itself I use RaceRender3 software (which is available for free online) for that part.
I bought mine ages ago via eBay. If buying another one today I'd get item number 301205091809.
What does a stock ST sound with a symposer delete?
Good question. I'm about to take delivery of a standard ST and I want to know what the difference in sound will be, I like a quiet car but with as much performance as possible.
Umm isn't the Symposer just a pipe that sends noise into your car?
Yesn't
While that is it's purpose, the Symposer is connected to the boostpipe in parallel. And Because it is out of plastic, it can start to leak. So ultimately, you lose pressure.
Hope I explained it alright, english is not my first language.
How do you export the data from torque pro? I can't figure it out
When you've finished logging, and from the 'Realtime' information' screen, select the settings icon, bottom left, and then choose 'Email data'. I export it as a CSV file and dump it straight into a folder on my Google drive.
@@MarkCup70 awesome, cheers
Great job thank u
so is it good to delete sympose?
Do you or did you ever run an oil catch can?
Ray Rivera I was literally going to post on this asking @MarkCup70 the same!
What do you do with the pipe that you pushed back out the way from the Symposer?
I just left it there...it doesn't need blanking and so long as it's not flapping in the breeze, all is good.
Fucking jubilee clip, great video. The bluetooth transmitter is great though gonna be getting one of those. thanks
Hey there, I'm having a leak somewhere, and was wondering if you can check my videos, to see if it's similar to yours? Could u let me know? Thank you friend
Hi David...I've just watched your three videos...it certainly does sound like you have a leak somewhere around the front of the engine. Does it perform as it should? Have you lost a lot of boost? Does the sound symposer generate the noise it should and feed it into the cabin?
MarkCup70 hi Mark, thanks for watching.
I do feel a slight power loss, but I feel that it would be difficult to convince the dealer of it. It's very mild in terms of the lack of boost.
The sound comes from the air intake. Specifically, it sounds as if the car is breathing heavily, or pushing air out (maybe both).
One mechanic says it may be a DV.
The mechanic I think is on the right track...if it's coming from the air intake, and it sounds like it does it suggests to me that it's the recirc valve that's at fault...as that is what dumps unused boost pressure back into the non-pressurised side of the intake system. I don't have any experience with that part (mine's been trouble free since the car was new) so can't offer you any advice on how to go about getting it fixed though, sorry!
Sound symposer not working ?
Simple solution take it to ford have it fixed pay the money , keep the receipt as part of service history .
job done
Why pay Ford prices when these cost around £15?! Just fit the bung, job done.
Wreck-it-Connor
Botch job!
Receipts for money spent on the car speak volumes when buying second hand
But ... the Symposer sounds awful ... that is the biggest reason to ditch it.
not working, obviously you have no idea what the part is for or how it works...do you own a car?
It was working, he didn't even realize it was leaking boost. Good luck convincing Ford to 'fix' (or get rid of?) your sound symposer under warranty because you suspect it might be leaking, or because you don't like the sound.
How did you get all this data through an app? Linked to the ECU somehow? Sensors you put in the car? So after all that you're still not getting 1.5 bar, it's improved which is good but still disappointing. Did you find the source of the rest of the boost leak?
I used the 'Torque Pro' Android app on my phone, connected to the car via a bluetooth OBD plug.
Something like this; www.amazon.co.uk/Wonolo-Bluetooth-Scanner-Diagnostic-Vehicle/dp/B07VXV5HQX
Then with the data and a little Excel manipulation I used RaceRender software (racerender.com/RR3/Features.html) to combine the data as dial overlays on the video footage of my rev-counter and speedometer.
Are they meant to produce more than 1.4 bar? I recall that's what the standard ST produced...but then this was quite a long time ago for me!
@@MarkCup70 "connected top the car" what does this mean?
Thanks for the info!
I've seen people getting 1.5bar
That was a typo, should have been connected to the car.