This isn't the first video I've seen of this, but a good illustration of what is done, and also the safety precautions. I almost purchased the Easy Flux Titanium at $20 off last week for $129, but waited. I had my Amazon cart up to $98 just to do the conversion.....overkill.....lugs, crimping tool, 4 gauge wire, $23 rectifier etc..... This can get me there without all of that. But I really like the demonstrations of that Titanium DC welder.....strong welds! Thanks!
I did this conversion and biggest difference ever, .035 flux wire now melts like butter and gets rid of most of the spatter, it seems to have soo much more power on tap instead of wasting it on spatter, penetration and arc quality is a big jump in improvement
DC inverter machines are also getting cheaper and cheaper, but I really appreciate the work you put into this. The idea, the effort and the professional video (documentation and explanation) on the process. very nice, respect! (background: I have a quite expensive MIG and TIG welder, but now buying a cheap AC fluxed core machine which I can beat and use for not so delicate work and had the same idea as you did.)
Yes the coils in the transformer, link above some one added some type of dial. He said theres 4 coils in the transformer? But doesnt really show it actually being tuned and welding differences. Im buying a miller or lincoln soon enough. I already got mine on gas which cleaned everything up a great deal. Just seeing if i can squeeze any more out of it. And having finer adjustments no wire feed issues.
Yes, along with a 1.4 volt drop. Two diodes at a time conductiing forward current. Each have a 0.7 volt drop. So look at your documentation on output of amps. To see the A/C volt output on low and high and subtract 1.4v from the stated output. On low setting wattage will be reduced by about 135 watts.
Hi Jim...sorry it was not clear enough. There are two wires exiting the front of the machine, one is for the welding gun and the other is the ground wire. You cut those two wires on the inside just a couple of inches back from where they exit the box (the welding gun wire passes through the feed mechanism before it exits the box, so you cut it before it enters the feed mechanism). The ground wire is an easy cut and re-route, but the welding gun wire is a little more difficult. I had to loosen the circuit board to get at the welding gun wire. This required removing the four bolts holding the transformer (support the transformer with a block of wood while the welder is lying on it's side...it is extremely heavy...you don't want to tear any wires loose should it shift) in order to get enough room to loosen the circuit board to get it out of the way. Once done, it was fairly straightforward. Carefully choose a spot on the welding gun wire a couple of inches back toward the transformer from the feed mechanism...just enough to give you enough room to strip and work with the wires. Think about it carefully before you cut the wire. If you cut it correctly, you will be able to get the cut wires just above the box so you can solder or clamp with a little more room to work...rather than trying to work in the tight space down in the box. Once the two wires are cut (see my wiring diagram), you first splice in the cut ground wire coming from the transformer and feed it back to the AC side of the rectifier (either AC terminal). Then, you run a new wire (I used #8 battery cable from some cheap jumper cables) from the POSITIVE side of the rectifier back to the front of the box, and splice it into the cut ground wire on the side exiting the box. Then, you splice the welding gun wire. Splice a wire from the transformer side of the cut welding gun wire. Run it back to the other AC terminal on the rectifier. Then run a new wire from the NEGATIVE terminal of the rectifier back to the front of the box and splice it into the cut wire headed for the feed mechanism (and then on to the welding gun). Again, see my wiring diagram. So, you are simply taking the two wires coming from the transformer, which is about 18 volts AC, and putting them on the AC side of the rectifier. The rectifier then converts the AC and provides DC voltage at the + and - terminals. Positive goes to out the box to the gound wire, negative goes out the box and to the welding gun. I have a new video that shows how to make a much-improved ground clamp for a couple of dollars: ua-cam.com/video/chbHR30JiSs/v-deo.html Also, since I made this video, I solved one of my other minor welding problems...not being able to see. I ditched my Harbor Freight helmet, and sprung for one of the cheaper Lincoln Electric helmets. Now I can SEE! amzn.to/38HfqUc
I think the high/low switching is done on the input side of the transformer. All my changes were done on the output side. The two output lines were cut, the rectifier was spliced into those two lines, and those two lines continued out to the ground clamp and the gun.
@@fromthebackofmymind if you want to make stuff, just make stuff, you don't anything but imagination and a few tools, and if you have enough imagination you can make your own tools.
hi so you got half way right, your wave diagram is wrong, and it looks to me that your understating of ac current flows is wrong too... so if have 110v of 220v or 1kv at an ac current, cycling at 60 or 50Hz of even at 1Ghz first thing you need to do to understand the conversion rate is to split the number in 2 so 50Hz becomes 25 now what does this number mean? this number means you'll be getting 25 pulses of per second of dc current each pulse will last for 4 milliseconds and during those 4 milliseconds your voltage will raise 0 to max and max to 0, and same thing will happen on the other polarity almost at the same time, it will offset, or phase shifted by 4 milliseconds, this is why you need a capacitor to smooth out the voltage falling and raising and the dead current time to a stable current, now i did the same thing to my Walmart stick welding machine, and i calculated the capacitor needed (for a 48 volt 200 amp current, transformer output) is around 850,000 uf or 0.85 farad, now this is very very large capacitor, and good luck buying one, you could put one together by paralleling caps. but the price tag... own cap... and it came out big, and calculating the plats length and size was hard... my next plan is add a wire and gas feed, so i can do flux core, mig and tig :-)
i made my own capacitor and it came out big, and calculating the plats length and size was hard... my next plan is add a wire and gas feed, so i can do flux core, mig and tig :-)
@@ayebee1207 the max output of my machine is 48v 160 amp, anything under it is even better i actually put my welder output under a oscilloscope, and i had perfect dc with a little bit of 50Hz noise, i was super surprised, and my diy cap came out to, 921k uf, how i don't know but i am happy, DC welds are a lot cleaner and take less time... next thing i am doing is a flux core mod... a little tricky, i need to find a schematic for spool drive controller
@@ayebee1207 and i do agree buy stuff is easy, everyone can buy stuff! not everyone can make stuff! i am a junk collector, and i love it because i have a lot of tools, and 95% of them are made of junk that no one else wanted, and they are all custom tailored the way i like to work... and i had a few time when people asked "can you build me one?" so yes!!!, you go buy one...
_"first thing you need to do to understand the conversion rate is to split the number in 2 so 50Hz becomes 25 now what does this number mean? .... "_ None of what you say here is correct.
This isn't the first video I've seen of this, but a good illustration of what is done, and also the safety precautions.
I almost purchased the Easy Flux Titanium at $20 off last week for $129, but waited.
I had my Amazon cart up to $98 just to do the conversion.....overkill.....lugs, crimping tool, 4 gauge wire, $23 rectifier etc.....
This can get me there without all of that.
But I really like the demonstrations of that Titanium DC welder.....strong welds!
Thanks!
I did this conversion and biggest difference ever, .035 flux wire now melts like butter and gets rid of most of the spatter, it seems to have soo much more power on tap instead of wasting it on spatter, penetration and arc quality is a big jump in improvement
Glad to hear this!
How do you set up the wiring ?
Thank you. Perfect step by step. Can’t go wrong by following this video.
Great detailed explanation with images as well. Thanks for sharing!
DC inverter machines are also getting cheaper and cheaper, but I really appreciate the work you put into this. The idea, the effort and the professional video (documentation and explanation) on the process. very nice, respect! (background: I have a quite expensive MIG and TIG welder, but now buying a cheap AC fluxed core machine which I can beat and use for not so delicate work and had the same idea as you did.)
Thank you.
"Lipstick on a pig." Hilarious! Excellent video Sir!!!
Good job bro. I see a lot of people have followed you on this.
I have the same welder, I'll try your idea. Thanks
Nice! The only thing I'm not clear on is electrode polarity.
@@fromthebackofmymind It's not clear because he didn't which way it is wired.
@@louf7178just buy a inverter welder from whatever company you can afford.
I need some help or possible future content. Any way to put a POT/dial to replace the toggles?
@@ayebee1207 figured theyd be big. But it is possible?
@@ayebee1207 if it is its horrible lol only reason im asking. Doesnt dial in well on lower settings.
What about pots before the coils?
Yes the coils in the transformer, link above some one added some type of dial. He said theres 4 coils in the transformer? But doesnt really show it actually being tuned and welding differences. Im buying a miller or lincoln soon enough. I already got mine on gas which cleaned everything up a great deal. Just seeing if i can squeeze any more out of it. And having finer adjustments no wire feed issues.
I don’t under where the wires go ?
Does doing this reduce the wattage output?
Yes, along with a 1.4 volt drop.
Two diodes at a time conductiing forward current. Each have a 0.7 volt drop. So look at your documentation on output of amps. To see the
A/C volt output on low and high and subtract 1.4v from the stated output.
On low setting wattage will be reduced by about 135 watts.
hi i have the same welder do you have a wiring diogram of how you installed it thanks
It would be nice to show what wires you cut and how to wire it up.
Hi Jim...sorry it was not clear enough. There are two wires exiting the front of the machine, one is for the welding gun and the other is the ground wire. You cut those two wires on the inside just a couple of inches back from where they exit the box (the welding gun wire passes through the feed mechanism before it exits the box, so you cut it before it enters the feed mechanism). The ground wire is an easy cut and re-route, but the welding gun wire is a little more difficult.
I had to loosen the circuit board to get at the welding gun wire. This required removing the four bolts holding the transformer (support the transformer with a block of wood while the welder is lying on it's side...it is extremely heavy...you don't want to tear any wires loose should it shift) in order to get enough room to loosen the circuit board to get it out of the way. Once done, it was fairly straightforward. Carefully choose a spot on the welding gun wire a couple of inches back toward the transformer from the feed mechanism...just enough to give you enough room to strip and work with the wires. Think about it carefully before you cut the wire. If you cut it correctly, you will be able to get the cut wires just above the box so you can solder or clamp with a little more room to work...rather than trying to work in the tight space down in the box.
Once the two wires are cut (see my wiring diagram), you first splice in the cut ground wire coming from the transformer and feed it back to the AC side of the rectifier (either AC terminal). Then, you run a new wire (I used #8 battery cable from some cheap jumper cables) from the POSITIVE side of the rectifier back to the front of the box, and splice it into the cut ground wire on the side exiting the box.
Then, you splice the welding gun wire. Splice a wire from the transformer side of the cut welding gun wire. Run it back to the other AC terminal on the rectifier. Then run a new wire from the NEGATIVE terminal of the rectifier back to the front of the box and splice it into the cut wire headed for the feed mechanism (and then on to the welding gun). Again, see my wiring diagram.
So, you are simply taking the two wires coming from the transformer, which is about 18 volts AC, and putting them on the AC side of the rectifier. The rectifier then converts the AC and provides DC voltage at the + and - terminals. Positive goes to out the box to the gound wire, negative goes out the box and to the welding gun.
I have a new video that shows how to make a much-improved ground clamp for a couple of dollars: ua-cam.com/video/chbHR30JiSs/v-deo.html
Also, since I made this video, I solved one of my other minor welding problems...not being able to see. I ditched my Harbor Freight helmet, and sprung for one of the cheaper Lincoln Electric helmets. Now I can SEE! amzn.to/38HfqUc
I think the high/low switching is done on the input side of the transformer. All my changes were done on the output side. The two output lines were cut, the rectifier was spliced into those two lines, and those two lines continued out to the ground clamp and the gun.
@@fromthebackofmymind if you want to make stuff, just make stuff, you don't anything but imagination and a few tools, and if you have enough imagination you can make your own tools.
@@bupright Hello, you mentioned a wiring diagram? do you still have that? thanks in advance...
hi so you got half way right, your wave diagram is wrong, and it looks to me that your understating of ac current flows is wrong too...
so if have 110v of 220v or 1kv at an ac current, cycling at 60 or 50Hz of even at 1Ghz
first thing you need to do to understand the conversion rate is to split the number in 2 so 50Hz becomes 25 now what does this number mean?
this number means you'll be getting 25 pulses of per second of dc current each pulse will last for 4 milliseconds and during those 4 milliseconds your voltage will raise 0 to max and max to 0, and same thing will happen on the other polarity almost at the same time, it will offset, or phase shifted by 4 milliseconds, this is why you need a capacitor to smooth out the voltage falling and raising and the dead current time to a stable current, now i did the same thing to my Walmart stick welding machine, and i calculated the capacitor needed (for a 48 volt 200 amp current, transformer output) is around 850,000 uf or 0.85 farad, now this is very very large capacitor, and good luck buying one, you could put one together by paralleling caps.
but the price tag...
own cap...
and it came out big, and calculating the plats length and size was hard...
my next plan is add a wire and gas feed, so i can do flux core, mig and tig :-)
i made my own capacitor
and it came out big, and calculating the plats length and size was hard...
my next plan is add a wire and gas feed, so i can do flux core, mig and tig :-)
@@ayebee1207 the max output of my machine is 48v 160 amp, anything under it is even better i actually put my welder output under a oscilloscope, and i had perfect dc with a little bit of 50Hz noise, i was super surprised, and my diy cap came out to, 921k uf, how i don't know but i am happy, DC welds are a lot cleaner and take less time...
next thing i am doing is a flux core mod...
a little tricky, i need to find a schematic for spool drive controller
@@ayebee1207 and i do agree buy stuff is easy, everyone can buy stuff!
not everyone can make stuff!
i am a junk collector, and i love it because i have a lot of tools, and 95% of them are made of junk that no one else wanted, and they are all custom tailored the way i like to work...
and i had a few time when people asked "can you build me one?"
so yes!!!, you go buy one...
Thank you. :)
_"first thing you need to do to understand the conversion rate is to split the number in 2 so 50Hz becomes 25 now what does this number mean? .... "_
None of what you say here is correct.