I found this very helpful, thank you! The powerful rumble on this model is fantastic. Note: During use avoid bending the neck, otherwise its internal spring may saw away and split the black housing.
..... Missed a huge part of the problem... Which is why it still sounded like a motorboat. The orange rubber bands need to be perfectly around the edges of the bearings. This is key to keeping the noise down and keeping the vibrations as designed. To keep them there, the die cast housing needs to be really really tight, so careful not to kill the sockets on the screws. If aligned properly when you turn the unit off, you'll feel the weight spinning and slowing gradually inside.
THE DOXY COMPANY MANUFACTURES CHEAPLY MADE AND CANNOT BE TRUSTED. The company Doxy does not have a phone number and the directions are worthless as the outdated technology. I guess that is British job security at its best. The doxy 3r is a joke at best and their claim of being a superior british product is not funny. The directions have no trouble shooting page. Plus the directions leave a lot to be desired and are skimpy at best plus they do not a repair facilty. They wasted a large amont of black ink with white ink and don't buy this poorly engineed piece of British Junk that became disabled after one week of of light use. By the Way I paid $250.00 to Zorbas In Scottsdale az and I asked thims to repair it which they refused to do so and they refused to compensate me. Warning Don't buy products from Zorbas because their promises cannot be truseted in any form or manner. They are sleazes who don't careabout outher peoples consumer rights in any form or manner. Alec at Zorbas and the owner Merlyn refused to offer asistance and refused to help period. After this I will only purchase American Made Products because the Doxy3r sucks and has no repair support period.
Since its due to say water, I wonder if iit would help to put a small bit of silicone or something around the seam and screws when tightening. I suppose we never had this issue and have had ours for a long time, but know others that have had it. But i know we never just washed the head fully under water and akways made sure we did not wash from below. Perhaps may be best to just remove the cover and washing just that.
I have years of experience w numerous wands etc. I bought a 3R blue and used once. Thought it must be an issue with the lock/travel mode as it was unresponsive and buttons did not have “normal tactile” feel either. When plugged into AC, I had a solid red light for under 5 mins, then nothing. I took Blue to the trauma bay, as I have much experience w electronics. I was able to open the casing. All connectivity points look good, nothing loose. I believe I found the correct battery and ordered to try and swap. Any insight for me? Don’t want to remove the board (nut and screw) unless I have something to look for. Perhaps it’s the contact under the power “pad”. Thx!
for ones attempting the fix on the old variation, i would recommend using the more easy method that does not require full deassembly link to the other method in description or here: ua-cam.com/video/CL1KNV95-jg/v-deo.html on my model, the collar was glued. so brute force - used a screwdriver, maybe heat from a blowdrier might help? (cant really recall the type of glue). version 3 looks quite different though so not sure if either methods would help
Repaired another one since... Used a sturdy steel bracket where i cut a slit into it with an angle grinder so i could slide it underneath the ring(bearing) to support it on 3 sides. then i placed the bracket on supports on the sides so i could hammer the shaft in the middle using a thin steel rod (probably going to do a new video on that since i also figure out how to do it without de-assembling the wand casing)
it needed quite a lot of force to do so - so brute force? could also maybe experiment with heating the spring side perhaps to expand the metal ? of putting the motor side in the freezer to contract it? (at least thats what is sometimes done for bearings / pushings)
i'd imagine it could be a stuck button or a broken button? or a bad circuit board? if your warranty is not valid anymore, you could open up the handle to see if you can clean around the silicone button and the underlying circuit with some rubbing alcohol? (in case anything sticky is on the contacts)
Mine starts vibrating at the highest speed the moment it is plugged in. None of the buttons are responsive. It’s basically brand new. I got it under the warranty to replace one that had the same issue! Does anyone have any suggestions? Is there somewhere I can go to get this fixed?
I have the same issue as of 3 days ago but I have an old OG model. I was going to try replacing the bearings as the board appears to be okay. Unfortunately, the housing on the head has some difficult to find bits. They look like torx but none of my torx head fit them.
Can anyone help me? I unscrewed it and everything is fine, but when I want to turn it on the buttons light up twice and then turn off. As if the ending didn't want to move
@@jokoivi Thanks for the answer. Sorry, I wrote quickly and using a translator. Let me explain. I would like to point out that I am completely green when it comes to repairs and DIY. At first I noticed that it was losing connection to the electricity, so I opened it and saw that one of the copper cables had broken off from the green panel. I connected it, secured it with insulating tape and everything was fine, but when I try to turn it on there is a slight vibration, the buttons flash twice and it turns off. As if he didn't have the strength to move. Do you think it's the fault of these two small 604RS wheels?
@@adrianczerniawski2215 1. I hope you soldered the wire, not just attached it with tape? It measures resistance, so just taping it would not be enough. 2. Did you de-assemble the head where bearings are inside of? It can happen when you re-assemble that the bearings are not sitting very well, or the rubber ring is not flush, so it would jam up 3. Could just be the bearings as well. Just try to spin them with your fingers and see if they are atuck
@@jokoivi I thought it would be best to solder it, but I don't have a soldering iron and I've never done it. I twisted the cable neatly around the protruding metal and secured it with tape. Additionally, I secured the cable so that it does not move, so everything is stiff. I did as in the video, I took off the rubber, unscrewed the head and the bearings don't look too bad, the orange rubbers are probably fine too. I wrote to you on Instagram because I have a video when I want to turn it on. If you could take a look, I would be very grateful
Bearings always look fine on the outside, you need to spin them with your fingers to see if there is any resistance. If they spun fine, then I'd start with testing it by turning it on for a few moments without the head screwed on - if it has the same issue, you'll need to find a soldering iron first to fix it proper, they cost nothing really. If it spins fine, it's likely issues with the bearings or assembly. Could still be the soldering as well. Can't really help you further than this.
Perhaps the button contacts have a bit of liquid damage? Fx the speed up being always pressed? If if the warranty has passed, Could try opening it up and cleaning the circuit board under the rubber buttons with alcohol
This company does not have a phone and the directions are worthless as the outdated technology. I guess that is British job security at its best. The doxy 3r is a joke at best and their claim of being a superior british product is not funny. The directions have no trouble shooting page. Plus the directions leave a lot to be desired and are skimpy at best. They wasted a large amont of black ink with white ink . My advice is for doxy3r to keep it simple.
Not your usual repair video, but still soothing and meditative!
I found this very helpful, thank you! The powerful rumble on this model is fantastic. Note: During use avoid bending the neck, otherwise its internal spring may saw away and split the black housing.
..... Missed a huge part of the problem... Which is why it still sounded like a motorboat. The orange rubber bands need to be perfectly around the edges of the bearings. This is key to keeping the noise down and keeping the vibrations as designed. To keep them there, the die cast housing needs to be really really tight, so careful not to kill the sockets on the screws.
If aligned properly when you turn the unit off, you'll feel the weight spinning and slowing gradually inside.
OMG i really needed this tutorial mine just broke yesterday! Thank you so much :D
Perfect timing then 😜
@@jokoivi quite literally the exact same situation for me an my partner, your a life saver
THE DOXY COMPANY MANUFACTURES CHEAPLY MADE AND CANNOT BE TRUSTED. The company Doxy does not have a phone number and the directions are worthless as the outdated technology. I guess that is British job security at its best. The doxy 3r is a joke at best and their claim of being a superior british product is not funny. The directions have no trouble shooting page. Plus the directions leave a lot to be desired and are skimpy at best plus they do not a repair facilty. They wasted a large amont of black ink with white ink and don't buy this poorly engineed piece of British Junk that became disabled after one week of of light use. By the Way I paid $250.00 to Zorbas In Scottsdale az and I asked thims to repair it which they refused to do so and they refused to compensate me. Warning Don't buy products from Zorbas because their promises cannot be truseted in any form or manner. They are sleazes who don't careabout outher peoples consumer rights in any form or manner. Alec at Zorbas and the owner Merlyn refused to offer asistance and refused to help period. After this I will only purchase American Made Products because the Doxy3r sucks and has no repair support period.
Since its due to say water, I wonder if iit would help to put a small bit of silicone or something around the seam and screws when tightening. I suppose we never had this issue and have had ours for a long time, but know others that have had it. But i know we never just washed the head fully under water and akways made sure we did not wash from below. Perhaps may be best to just remove the cover and washing just that.
nice! Will try to repair my one the next weekend.
I have years of experience w numerous wands etc. I bought a 3R blue and used once. Thought it must be an issue with the lock/travel mode as it was unresponsive and buttons did not have “normal tactile” feel either. When plugged into AC, I had a solid red light for under 5 mins, then nothing. I took Blue to the trauma bay, as I have much experience w electronics. I was able to open the casing. All connectivity points look good, nothing loose. I believe I found the correct battery and ordered to try and swap. Any insight for me? Don’t want to remove the board (nut and screw) unless I have something to look for. Perhaps it’s the contact under the power “pad”. Thx!
I have a doxy 3. At 1.27 you remove the collar - but mine is stuck fast!! How does yours slip off? Is it different on the doxy 3?
for ones attempting the fix on the old variation, i would recommend using the more easy method that does not require full deassembly link to the other method in description or here: ua-cam.com/video/CL1KNV95-jg/v-deo.html
on my model, the collar was glued. so brute force - used a screwdriver, maybe heat from a blowdrier might help? (cant really recall the type of glue).
version 3 looks quite different though so not sure if either methods would help
Great video! I'm stucked trying to remove the ring at the top of the housing (1:27), it's very stucked. Any tips?
Repaired another one since... Used a sturdy steel bracket where i cut a slit into it with an angle grinder so i could slide it underneath the ring(bearing) to support it on 3 sides. then i placed the bracket on supports on the sides so i could hammer the shaft in the middle using a thin steel rod (probably going to do a new video on that since i also figure out how to do it without de-assembling the wand casing)
I need a new neck for mine any suggestions
@jokojovi i am i the same step, the lower ball bearing needs replacement on mine but I cant get the neck off
the metal rod the bearing attach to is pretty rusty on my wife's. anyone know what that part number is or should i try to clean/sand it down??
Likely not a standardised, easy to find part. A bit of rust is totally fine. Scrape/sand as much as you can off and it's good to go again.
Any idea where I can buy a new circuit board for mine?
I can't push my spring all the way down, it's really tough, only goes halfway and then the spring becomes more narrow. Any help?
it needed quite a lot of force to do so - so brute force? could also maybe experiment with heating the spring side perhaps to expand the metal ? of putting the motor side in the freezer to contract it? (at least thats what is sometimes done for bearings / pushings)
Any thoughts on where to find the rubber rings that surround the bearings?
not sure, maybe getting a set of rubber o rings and then using a few of them?
What can i do if it starts vibrating only put the cable in without turning on
i'd imagine it could be a stuck button or a broken button? or a bad circuit board? if your warranty is not valid anymore, you could open up the handle to see if you can clean around the silicone button and the underlying circuit with some rubbing alcohol? (in case anything sticky is on the contacts)
Mine starts vibrating at the highest speed the moment it is plugged in. None of the buttons are responsive. It’s basically brand new. I got it under the warranty to replace one that had the same issue! Does anyone have any suggestions? Is there somewhere I can go to get this fixed?
I have the same issue as of 3 days ago but I have an old OG model. I was going to try replacing the bearings as the board appears to be okay. Unfortunately, the housing on the head has some difficult to find bits. They look like torx but none of my torx head fit them.
I got the same issue, this is my third one with the same issue but i got the OG one
Can anyone help me? I unscrewed it and everything is fine, but when I want to turn it on the buttons light up twice and then turn off. As if the ending didn't want to move
Unscrewed what? And tried to turn it on when reassembled or when opened up? Missing context to really help you here...
@@jokoivi Thanks for the answer. Sorry, I wrote quickly and using a translator. Let me explain. I would like to point out that I am completely green when it comes to repairs and DIY. At first I noticed that it was losing connection to the electricity, so I opened it and saw that one of the copper cables had broken off from the green panel. I connected it, secured it with insulating tape and everything was fine, but when I try to turn it on there is a slight vibration, the buttons flash twice and it turns off. As if he didn't have the strength to move. Do you think it's the fault of these two small 604RS wheels?
@@adrianczerniawski2215 1. I hope you soldered the wire, not just attached it with tape? It measures resistance, so just taping it would not be enough.
2. Did you de-assemble the head where bearings are inside of? It can happen when you re-assemble that the bearings are not sitting very well, or the rubber ring is not flush, so it would jam up
3. Could just be the bearings as well. Just try to spin them with your fingers and see if they are atuck
@@jokoivi I thought it would be best to solder it, but I don't have a soldering iron and I've never done it. I twisted the cable neatly around the protruding metal and secured it with tape. Additionally, I secured the cable so that it does not move, so everything is stiff. I did as in the video, I took off the rubber, unscrewed the head and the bearings don't look too bad, the orange rubbers are probably fine too. I wrote to you on Instagram because I have a video when I want to turn it on. If you could take a look, I would be very grateful
Bearings always look fine on the outside, you need to spin them with your fingers to see if there is any resistance. If they spun fine, then I'd start with testing it by turning it on for a few moments without the head screwed on - if it has the same issue, you'll need to find a soldering iron first to fix it proper, they cost nothing really. If it spins fine, it's likely issues with the bearings or assembly. Could still be the soldering as well. Can't really help you further than this.
How do you replace the rubber rings around the bearings?
You mean where can you get New ones? Don't really know, perhaps getting an o-ring set and using a couple of them ?
@@jokoivi ok thanks, I'll try. Mine have become loose and keep coming off when I try to put the head back together.
Thankyou
Which type of screwdriver?
Torx, not sure about the size
Anyone got suggestions on how to replace the rubber 'neck'? Mine has somehow torn in half =/
i need this too…
Mine is stuck on highest speed, do you have any tips for that? 😂
Perhaps the button contacts have a bit of liquid damage? Fx the speed up being always pressed? If if the warranty has passed, Could try opening it up and cleaning the circuit board under the rubber buttons with alcohol
Well that has definitely seen some use
What is the adapter specs?
This company does not have a phone and the directions are worthless as the outdated technology. I guess that is British job security at its best. The doxy 3r is a joke at best and their claim of being a superior british product is not funny. The directions have no trouble shooting page. Plus the directions leave a lot to be desired and are skimpy at best. They wasted a large amont of black ink with white ink
. My advice is for doxy3r to keep it simple.