It's worth noting that just because a wall is stud it doesn't mean it isn't load bearing. They won't be taking as much load as brick / block but in some circumstances they are structural. The previous owner of my house took out a stud wall downstairs and the floor upstairs maybe 40 years ago and the floor had sagged like crazy. After consulting a structural engineer I opened up a little further and took down a wall that was supporting a mid flight stair landing. Two substantial steels fitted in a t section and a lot of jacking up with acros and all is solid.
Thanks Andy, that seems a pragmatic & reasonable approach to me, and as you said numerous times if there is ANY doubt then consult a structural engineer. You covered what I was going to say in your round-up - that in a road of identical houses talk to your neighbours and find out what thy've done, it's only a guide, so don't rely on that solely, but it is another source of info in completing the picture and they may even have had it assessed recently !
Good stuff Andy. A tip wet the ceiling and walls to keep the dust down. If there is a possibility of Asbestos then it 1 littre per meter. Keep up the great work and videos Andy and Mrs Mac
Top Tip: You can identify a load bearing wall by knocking it down. If your house is still standing then it is not load bearing. If you die, it was probably load bearing.
Hi Andy As others have rightly pointed out , down force is not the only consideration , but another consideration is the time frame of the property. As most houses of this time frame were heated by coal , storing coal on the premises was a potential fire risk as was the kitchen itself . Kitchens being the primary source of domestic fire in those days , and of course chimney fires were a regular event which was part of living with a coal fire . Interestingly the time difference in brickwork being installed and lath and plaster , might not have been as great as you might think , and definitely in this case the quality of the brickwork was never expected to be seen so could be installed at quite a brisk pace . My late father was in the fire service , which he joined in the early 1950s . Most of his early days were occupied with domestic fires often being as mentioned chimneys and chip pan fires , and yes even coal bunkers catching fire . Kind regards as always
A very interesting video. Some excellent advice for anyone contemplating removing a wall. If I was knocking it down I would probably use an SDS plus drill with the chisel only function to knock it down
It makes sense that it was a pantry. In the days before widespread use of fridges/freezers an unheated room on the north side of a house could stay very cool.
The joists may run front to back rather than side to side as otherwise there would have to be notches / holes in the party wall which would be terrible for noise transfer. This is a common thing to remediate in later 40s-50s properties I believe.
Hi Andy, I bet your relieved that wall is not load bearing. The joists run the same way in my house running the length instead of the width. We removed a load bearing wall and replaced with a steel beam quite a big beam if not over sized, best to be over sized than under, so we got the stairs going in to our front room as this was walled off and made the front room bigger we done this in 2011. The steel beam runs from the front door to the kitchen wall a span of 4 metres. As always a good video catch you soon Take care
'The Pantry" is what we called it in the west end of Newcastle - Cowgate, 1930s build. It had concrete shelves and was always really, really cold - shared the same wall as the 'coalbunker'. Kitchen had a concrete floor and the upstairs bathroom/toilet floor was concrete too. No idea how that was supported, but I remember there was a really thick part of the ceiling above the sink. I always thought it was the return for the top of the stairs, though there wasn't one, the stairs went straight up. Maybe that was the concrete block. They don't build them like thy used to..... 🙏
I am guessing the Noooook was an outside toilet but there would be a door for the coal shed and a door for the loo. My 1935 house has a ground floor internal wall that stops like yours but then there is a first floor brick wall sitting just on the beams running parallel to it about 50cm to one side. So it is load bearing.
The wall I had bricked up in the hole between the lounge and dining area was load bearing with no lintel. The joists also go front to back but the span would have been massive. Also the pantry was taken out and that was supporting the landing between the stairs turn - now back. That was silly as the meters were there and they put a stupid little cupboard door to access it. Also a lead pipe from the gas meter to gas fire in lounge (now removed) was dented - last checked in 1991! Putting the pantry back uncovered the original window to the side before the side extension. I've also had the bricks removed from under the stairs showing the door from the garage to the area - not a real door, but more a cupboard type one. I hope your electrics are better than mine - hanging a picture in the wrong place could have been life changing. Rewiring is going to take time, but the main stuff has been re-routed to less dangerous places including the live wire with a 3" screw through it. Not wanting spots in dining area uncovered a melted transformer! At least you're not having to live in the dust like me. I'm now having a break until after Christmas (other than cleaning and painting fresh plaster) and wait for any horrors you might uncover.
@@kitchendiner I am. Doing it circuit by circuit as we're living here. Did that in my last place when we extended for downstairs. Means rewiring while old is in place and swap out at end.
We had load bearing wall downstairs and most people said just buy a steel. Instead I contacted structural engineer who came out, designed everything using timber and fabricated metal cleats - which meant it was lighter, easier to cut & fit, easier to screw plasterboard to and even including his fee was cheaper than the steel beam.
4:43 - what a relief! 100% METRIC tape measures. One's needs to be very persistent to find metric only tapes here in UK. Really, who needs imperial units on the tapes? Have seen no one, who measuring in inches at the sites.
I took out a brick wall between the dinning room and kitchen in my house. Opened up the ceilings both sides and could see there was literally nothing sittyng on top of it. Joists were situatied about 15cm ish either side of the wall. So just knocked it down brick by brick from top down. That was 2 years ago
Load bearing walls may not just be taking a vertical load. They can be acting as buttresses to perpendicular walls. That is why engineers exist and happy to you mentioned that.
16:01 - isn't that a joint of two joists over there above the brickwall? Seems the wall is giving a support to this connection. Are you going to reinforce that joist?
Always surprised at how often I see floor joists hacked up over there to run utilities. I suppose with brick walls you have nowhere else to run things, just unnerving to see electrical runs just below the floorboards and notches for pipes, etc. I've have to fix those mishaps plenty across the pond here. Interesting to see how things are done elsewhere. Thanks for the share.
Honestly it absolutely does my head in 😂! Floorboard notches are one of my pet hates. In my experience they're one of the most common causes of sagging ceilings and bouncy floors. 😭
The ground floor should have dwarf walls supporting the longer span. If its a terrace or a semi detached house they would never run the joists into the Party wall. Only steels would be run into a party wall one brick wide.
Could the through-lounge downstairs have once been two rooms? If so that would explain the longitudinal beams, and might also suggest there's a steel halfway across.
Question: "How do I identify a load bearing wall?" Answer: "Knock it down and if the ceiling doesn't fall on your head, then it wasn't a load bearing wall." 😂😂😂
1964 end terrace. I'm looking to remove the none load bearing wall between the lounge and a hallway to open up the lounge. At each end the wall keys into an outside and inside load bearing wall. Does it therefore contribute to the integrity of the structure of the property or can it be removed? Also, whilst I'm here, different wall, is the wall between adjoining terrace/semi property a cavity wall? I'm guessing it will be.
Could be structural - look up racking panels. Get a structural engineer to take a look. Party walls in 1964 should be cavity but not guaranteed. In older houses they're often just single brick. 😮
Yeah, certain surfaces it just goes crazy. It's got really good eye detection but if I'm not looking at the camera it gets confused. The solution is to lock the focus... but I always forget. 😂
I grew up in a 1930's home with asbestos ceiling tiles, it scares me to think it's just lurking there in all these homes and there are DIYers with literally no idea. I've worked with trades who didn't know anything about asbestos. I think an asbestos survey is always wise when buying a new (old) home.
Its a shame that lots of UA-camrs are progressing to patreon etc. Only showing extra content if you pay. I used to like this channel when a lot more content was on here.
I'm thinking of unsubscribing from this channel ( not that any1 wud probably care lol ) but my reason for it is I subscribed to this channel when u was renovating your own 1920's property and b4 that one and all the content for the whole renovation was put up on this channel so I cud follow along with ur journey. But the new property ur renovating your not doing that all all mish mash vids and ur telling people if they wanna see more of this reno and more independent vids head over to the members zone that's abit unfair forcing people to pay to be a member to watch stuff that once was free to watch I just find that a tad unfair on people who want to support the channel but not in a committed way and u kind of have to if u wanna see the whole reno from start to finish. I do hope u read this and maybe reply but I doubt it no hate involved just dissapointed I guess
Link to our little shop: gosforthhandyman.com/shop
Andy, the amount of times you slapped that wall, I'm surprised it didn't come down anyway 🤣
Great vids, by the way.
I thank you! I need to try harder at the gym... 💪
It's worth noting that just because a wall is stud it doesn't mean it isn't load bearing. They won't be taking as much load as brick / block but in some circumstances they are structural. The previous owner of my house took out a stud wall downstairs and the floor upstairs maybe 40 years ago and the floor had sagged like crazy. After consulting a structural engineer I opened up a little further and took down a wall that was supporting a mid flight stair landing. Two substantial steels fitted in a t section and a lot of jacking up with acros and all is solid.
Yup - all very true! Also racking panels. 👍
Thanks Andy, that seems a pragmatic & reasonable approach to me, and as you said numerous times if there is ANY doubt then consult a structural engineer. You covered what I was going to say in your round-up - that in a road of identical houses talk to your neighbours and find out what thy've done, it's only a guide, so don't rely on that solely, but it is another source of info in completing the picture and they may even have had it assessed recently !
Cheers and wise words! 👍😎
Good stuff Andy. A tip wet the ceiling and walls to keep the dust down. If there is a possibility of Asbestos then it 1 littre per meter. Keep up the great work and videos Andy and Mrs Mac
Cheers and we regularly use a water spray - great tip! 👍
Top Tip: You can identify a load bearing wall by knocking it down. If your house is still standing then it is not load bearing. If you die, it was probably load bearing.
@jonathancook4022 best way I find
😂😂
Just drop a coward's save before you start...😀
😂😂🤭
Wise words. 😂
I'm a structural engineer and another giveaway is that the wall is made from bricks on edge so is 3" instead of 4" and a cheaper way to build a wall.
Hi Andy As others have rightly pointed out , down force is not the only consideration , but another consideration is the time frame of the property. As most houses of this time frame were heated by coal , storing coal on the premises was a potential fire risk as was the kitchen itself . Kitchens being the primary source of domestic fire in those days , and of course chimney fires were a regular event which was part of living with a coal fire . Interestingly the time difference in brickwork being installed and lath and plaster , might not have been as great as you might think , and definitely in this case the quality of the brickwork was never expected to be seen so could be installed at quite a brisk pace . My late father was in the fire service , which he joined in the early 1950s . Most of his early days were occupied with domestic fires often being as mentioned chimneys and chip pan fires , and yes even coal bunkers catching fire . Kind regards as always
That's really interesting - awesome information! 👍👍
Interesting stuff Andy! looking forward to any future videos on this project!
First thing that goes through my mind when I'm thinking about removing a brick wall?
"Where's the number for that structural engineer!" 😂😂😂
Defo!
A very interesting video. Some excellent advice for anyone contemplating removing a wall. If I was knocking it down I would probably use an SDS plus drill with the chisel only function to knock it down
Defo - pointy chisel worked well. 👍
It makes sense that it was a pantry. In the days before widespread use of fridges/freezers an unheated room on the north side of a house could stay very cool.
My thoughts too! 👍
The joists may run front to back rather than side to side as otherwise there would have to be notches / holes in the party wall which would be terrible for noise transfer. This is a common thing to remediate in later 40s-50s properties I believe.
And also creates a path for fire to spread to neighbours, which is why most go from front to back.
Yup probably both correct - big span mind!
Hi Andy, I bet your relieved that wall is not load bearing. The joists run the same way in my house running the length instead of the width. We removed a load bearing wall and replaced with a steel beam quite a big beam if not over sized, best to be over sized than under, so we got the stairs going in to our front room as this was walled off and made the front room bigger we done this in 2011. The steel beam runs from the front door to the kitchen wall a span of 4 metres. As always a good video catch you soon Take care
Interesting and useful info - cheers!
Thanks for the content Andy. Always appreciated.
No worries! 👍👍
'The Pantry" is what we called it in the west end of Newcastle - Cowgate, 1930s build. It had concrete shelves and was always really, really cold - shared the same wall as the 'coalbunker'. Kitchen had a concrete floor and the upstairs bathroom/toilet floor was concrete too. No idea how that was supported, but I remember there was a really thick part of the ceiling above the sink. I always thought it was the return for the top of the stairs, though there wasn't one, the stairs went straight up. Maybe that was the concrete block. They don't build them like thy used to..... 🙏
Top tips, glad to see your new project 👍👍👍👍👍
Cheers - it's an adventure! 😁
I am guessing the Noooook was an outside toilet but there would be a door for the coal shed and a door for the loo.
My 1935 house has a ground floor internal wall that stops like yours but then there is a first floor brick wall sitting just on the beams running parallel to it about 50cm to one side. So it is load bearing.
Interesting! You see so many weird things in older houses. 😁
The wall I had bricked up in the hole between the lounge and dining area was load bearing with no lintel. The joists also go front to back but the span would have been massive. Also the pantry was taken out and that was supporting the landing between the stairs turn - now back. That was silly as the meters were there and they put a stupid little cupboard door to access it. Also a lead pipe from the gas meter to gas fire in lounge (now removed) was dented - last checked in 1991! Putting the pantry back uncovered the original window to the side before the side extension. I've also had the bricks removed from under the stairs showing the door from the garage to the area - not a real door, but more a cupboard type one.
I hope your electrics are better than mine - hanging a picture in the wrong place could have been life changing. Rewiring is going to take time, but the main stuff has been re-routed to less dangerous places including the live wire with a 3" screw through it. Not wanting spots in dining area uncovered a melted transformer! At least you're not having to live in the dust like me. I'm now having a break until after Christmas (other than cleaning and painting fresh plaster) and wait for any horrors you might uncover.
sounds like you just need to just start again with the wiring 🔌
if its over 40yrs its ran its lifecycle anyway
Living in the dust is an absolute nightmare - best of luck with yours. A well deserved break by the sounds of it! Luckily our electrics are OK. 👍
@@kitchendiner I am. Doing it circuit by circuit as we're living here. Did that in my last place when we extended for downstairs. Means rewiring while old is in place and swap out at end.
We had load bearing wall downstairs and most people said just buy a steel. Instead I contacted structural engineer who came out, designed everything using timber and fabricated metal cleats - which meant it was lighter, easier to cut & fit, easier to screw plasterboard to and even including his fee was cheaper than the steel beam.
Great advice never considered that it could be cheaper.
Defo. In my experience structural engineers are generally amazing. 😎
4:43 - what a relief! 100% METRIC tape measures. One's needs to be very persistent to find metric only tapes here in UK. Really, who needs imperial units on the tapes? Have seen no one, who measuring in inches at the sites.
Great informative video. Yous are going to do a awesome job with it
Thank you!! 👍👍
I took out a brick wall between the dinning room and kitchen in my house.
Opened up the ceilings both sides and could see there was literally nothing sittyng on top of it. Joists were situatied about 15cm ish either side of the wall.
So just knocked it down brick by brick from top down.
That was 2 years ago
Yup had that too! Wall was running parallel with the joists with nothing on top. Again, a kitchen in an old house. 👍
6:30 Actual cinder blocks! You rarely see them except in older buildings from the 40s-50s. Modern blocks are made from concrete not cinder.
Load bearing walls may not just be taking a vertical load. They can be acting as buttresses to perpendicular walls. That is why engineers exist and happy to you mentioned that.
Seen it loads on the instagrammers when they remove walls and they have loss of buttress but nobody cares because it does fall down straight away
Defo! 👍👍
16:01 - isn't that a joint of two joists over there above the brickwall? Seems the wall is giving a support to this connection. Are you going to reinforce that joist?
Always surprised at how often I see floor joists hacked up over there to run utilities. I suppose with brick walls you have nowhere else to run things, just unnerving to see electrical runs just below the floorboards and notches for pipes, etc. I've have to fix those mishaps plenty across the pond here. Interesting to see how things are done elsewhere. Thanks for the share.
Honestly it absolutely does my head in 😂! Floorboard notches are one of my pet hates. In my experience they're one of the most common causes of sagging ceilings and bouncy floors. 😭
The ground floor should have dwarf walls supporting the longer span. If its a terrace or a semi detached house they would never run the joists into the Party wall. Only steels would be run into a party wall one brick wide.
When refurbishing a whole had I tend to take all ceilings down as part of the rip out stage then you can clearly see if what’s going on
A job too far on this one and the ceilings are in pretty good condition, but if it was lath and plaster I'd be very tempted to get rid of it. 👍😁
Better you than me, working on these old places is a pain.
Could the through-lounge downstairs have once been two rooms? If so that would explain the longitudinal beams, and might also suggest there's a steel halfway across.
No, only one fireplace so defo always been a single room. 👍
@@GosforthHandyman Fairy Nuff.
Yes, very useful.
👍👍
07:47 for the interpretive dance section 😊
I should enter the Olympics. 😎
@GosforthHandyman Strictly Come Dancing would be better. I think that break dancing was a one-off for the Paris Olympics.
Question: "How do I identify a load bearing wall?"
Answer: "Knock it down and if the ceiling doesn't fall on your head, then it wasn't a load bearing wall."
😂😂😂
Exactly! 😂
1964 end terrace. I'm looking to remove the none load bearing wall between the lounge and a hallway to open up the lounge. At each end the wall keys into an outside and inside load bearing wall. Does it therefore contribute to the integrity of the structure of the property or can it be removed?
Also, whilst I'm here, different wall, is the wall between adjoining terrace/semi property a cavity wall? I'm guessing it will be.
Could be structural - look up racking panels. Get a structural engineer to take a look. Party walls in 1964 should be cavity but not guaranteed. In older houses they're often just single brick. 😮
@GosforthHandyman Thank you
Did Andy check for asbestos in the ceiling? Im about to start refurbishment of my house (built 1925) and the builders want a asbestos test ....
Look up, if trusses, rafters, walls or joists end on it is bearing
Wonder if the camera going bananas is related to focusing on your black jumper. I have black cats and my phone camera struggles deciding on focus
Yeah, certain surfaces it just goes crazy. It's got really good eye detection but if I'm not looking at the camera it gets confused. The solution is to lock the focus... but I always forget. 😂
In some houses it's load bearing wallpaper
Is that asbestos artex ceiling you've got there?
Probably! Being over-boarded. 👍
Kitchen may have been enclosed in brickwork to reduce fire risk. No idea on the effectiveness of that design choice, but it was my first thought.
Possibly!
Textured ceiling could contain asbestos, would recommend having it tested
Getting over-boarded. 👍
How did you know there wasn't asbestos in the ceiling?
There probably is on the artex side. Unlikely on the flat plaster side.
I grew up in a 1930's home with asbestos ceiling tiles, it scares me to think it's just lurking there in all these homes and there are DIYers with literally no idea. I've worked with trades who didn't know anything about asbestos. I think an asbestos survey is always wise when buying a new (old) home.
Would brick walls in the kitchen also reduce rodent access?
Potentially!
Is that asbestos above your head! thats the first thing id be focusing on!
also subbed merry Christmas!
Very possibly asbestos! Being over-boarded. Thank you and Merry Christmas too! 🎄
I would have screwed this up! Thank you!
No worries!
I would expect lathe and plaster ceilings on a house that old.
Yeah - just on the cusp of the switchover to plasterboard! 👍
where in the uk are you based?
North East England. 👍
Ask Kramer!
🤔
Wondered why I've not been getting notifications. Got the newsletter followed the link then see for some reason I'd been unsubscribed.
Think you should check that artex ceiling most likely got asbestos in it the age of the house
Yup! Being over-boarded. 👍
Simple idea ask neighbour if their house has a all there as well as all things in this video
I would just pull up the floorboards upstairs and have a look.
👍👍
I would just take a floorboard up upstairs to see if there is anything resting on the wall. Thats what builders always do first.
Try watching the video before commenting
Yup, covered this in the vid. 👍
Nine X out of 10, if go up stairs see the way the floor joist are running.
Its a shame that lots of UA-camrs are progressing to patreon etc. Only showing extra content if you pay. I used to like this channel when a lot more content was on here.
I understand why, but such a shame so much of your content has now gone behind a paywall.
Don't worry, no changes on the UA-cam side! 👍 All the stuff on the Member Zone wouldn't be going on UA-cam anyway.
It seems to be harder to identify a load bearing wall than it is to identify as a load bearing wall
You're not wrong!! 😂😂
You need to set fixed focus on the camera, stop those blurry Shenanigans. Autofocus is only useful if you're walking around holding the thing.
Maybe brick was used to prevent the spread of fire
Potentially!
Easy, knock it out, if house falls down... it was load bearing.
Exactly! 😉
I'm thinking of unsubscribing from this channel ( not that any1 wud probably care lol ) but my reason for it is I subscribed to this channel when u was renovating your own 1920's property and b4 that one and all the content for the whole renovation was put up on this channel so I cud follow along with ur journey. But the new property ur renovating your not doing that all all mish mash vids and ur telling people if they wanna see more of this reno and more independent vids head over to the members zone that's abit unfair forcing people to pay to be a member to watch stuff that once was free to watch I just find that a tad unfair on people who want to support the channel but not in a committed way and u kind of have to if u wanna see the whole reno from start to finish.
I do hope u read this and maybe reply but I doubt it no hate involved just dissapointed I guess
3:12 all these years calling out the engineer when i could have just done the poke test 😒👉🧱
i feel robbed 🤭😅
😂