UK's Strongest Climbers Vs V17/9A Indoor Boulder
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- Опубліковано 5 бер 2023
- After Aidan set the Burden of Dreams replica a few weeks ago, Will Bosi dropped by to give it a go for the first time. Watching these athletes work the moves really shows how hard this boulder is going to be! This is bouldering and replica training at the most elite level.
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I watched that warm up and now I have 4 ruptured pulleys. Maybe give some content warning next time...
Same
My pulleys and tendons actually started to ache just watching it. Like they could feel the pressure from the holds
😂
Haha 😂 we thought Aidan and Will being on the thumbnail was enough warning.
@@LatticeTraining you know what? Fair point 😂
The sickest thing that could happen would be to get Nalle on this replica of Burden and get his assessment on how it compares to the real thing!
That would be very interesting!
Shame he's disappeared
@@Kingofdafarm21 no, check out his recent videos
@@Kingofdafarm21 what do you mean by that?
@@duncanstoebner4504 he’s not in the flicks much anymore
I think that when you see pros projecting you really can get an idea of the kind of mindset that you need for going really hard. Appreciating all the details, every slight improvement of being able to touch the hold for 0.2 seconds more, accepting conditions (skin, humidity etc.). It's not a matter of how experienced you are or how strong you can climb, it's about how you manage what you can't do and won't be able to do for a long time (knowingly).
Really psyched! Lovely video
How quickly Will has taken to this thing and nailed down some of the hardest moves is inspiring. These guys are absolute powerhouses.
Yeah Will is making quick progress. Very impressive!
These warm-ups have me shaking my head lol. If I could climb what they warmed up on I'd be happy for the rest of my life lmao
Bosi is such an unassuming dude but a total beast
Yeah exactly.
Yeah he looks like a completely average dude, you’d never think he’s one of the strongest boulderers in the world!
Someone needs to do a proper movie about Burden of Dreams, and how all the best climbers in the world are throwing themselves at it and getting shut down left and right. Nalle's accomplishment just keeps becoming more and more impressive.
Man LOVE this! Seeing Aidan and Will on the board gets me so psyched! Would love to see a full episode with the boys limit projecting on this board or the school room. Maybe setting a couple boulders in their own style to test each other.
I'd like to see Aidan Roberts try Honey Badger. Also, when will Ondra give BOD a try? They should invite him!
@@chazott I don't think Ondra is at BOD level bouldering wise, can't recall if he's done any 8c+. He's more of a route climber.
@@matiask7633 WOW, its like you don't know Ondra at all. He was establishing 8C+ when these kids were in grade school, and he just this year became the first person to flash 8B on grit (before Aidan or Will, who live in the grit). Also, Silence crux could be a 9A boulder itself. Ondra also flashed Jade, which is considered the hardest bouldering flash to date by anyone. Oh yeah and he did a 9b last year with a 8C+ boulder problem, etc etc etc. He's as strong at bouldering as he is at sport climbing, that's his secret sauce
@@chazott looks like I haven't kept up with my ondra knowledge, dude's smashed some hard boulders. Still, I don't think he's as good at bouldering really hard like these 9A guys, maybe just doesn't have the motivation. And silence crux definitely isn't 9A.
@@matiask7633 Silence crux is yet to be repeated. But Ondra said its the hardest boulder problem he's ever done and he's smashed a bunch of 8C+. Took him 4 seasons to unlock it, similar to Nalle on BOD. I think you're right about the motivation. It's not a question of whether he can do BOD, but whether he's motivated to do it or not. He might rather stick to sport climbing progression.
This video compared with the last one from Shawn trying Burden out in the wild really gives a very good impression of the differences between bouldering in- and outdoors. I mean it is extreme what Shawn is doing but still... inside is like orders of magnitude more comfortable.
Knowing he now sent this Boulder makes me happy! Congrats to will!!
Super fun to watch. Will and Aidan are just so nice and chill. And climb crazy hard. Looking forward to next episode and eventually the actual thing!
I do seriously love these two individuals, both are so analytic when climbing that is inspiring.
It's absolutely crazy how other V17s got repeated in such a short time and this thing still stands unclimbed by anyone other than Nalle. In all the videos about burden, Nalle gets way too little credit.
Other 9as probably are not 9a if burden is and this is an easier replica '9a' climbers are barely doing moves on. I don't think everything new is 8c or above when it only takes a session or 2
@@SChaywood1 the newer 9a's didnt just take 2 sessions. alphane stands out cuz its repeated so much but that is because it is super accesible and SUPER GOOD for your skin. everybody said you can have unlimited sessions cuz the rock is so good :)
@@SChaywood1 Most uninformed take
@@SChaywood1 Sean got on much better on Burden than Sedouin Seul so using your logic Sedouin is the hardest problem in the world. The biggest reason why Burden hasn't been repeated is accessibility.
Did afew moves on each compared to sending them is a huge difference I would not say that's much better. You mean the sit, low sit, low low sit to the island
I would not be surprise at all if Burden of Dreams gets upgraded. I'd have better chances at climbing my bathroom tiles with a thick layer of soap on them while blindfolded.
So cool to see this climb get more attention. Race for the 2nd ascent is definitely on!
2 genuinely nice guys who you would have fun climbing with whatever the grade
Such a fantastic video!!
A good day to watch climbing content! First Adams vid and now this, both absolute bangers! Can't wait to see you on the real thing after training on the replica. It's future of climbing to use 3d models but still yet to be seen how well it transfers to actual rock.
As a newcomer to climbing, it's really fun to learn about Nalle and Burden Of Dreams as a finn myself. So sick that one of the most difficult boulders in the world is just couple of hours away from where I live.
Tbh, i think we can talk about THE hardest boulder in the world
@@oliviertrudel2384 megatron might be harder tbh
@@alexantone5532 doubt tbh
"I need to just actually remember I'm trying the hardest boulder in the world" 😆
Super interesting to hear you guys talking about dry versus sweaty skin. It's not a common topic to discuss. As someone with very dry skin everyone tells me how lucky I am but it's a real pain in the cold. I climb so much better by hot weather. So it's not as simple as "dry is good, sweaty is bad", as Will acknowledges.
Depending on your area though, dry skin will be optimal for the majority of the year whereas sweaty bois can only get optimum friction for a few months, and the climbing throughout those months is not very chill because of the cold
@@AMM1998 For sure I appreciate having my peak performance in also the most pleasant season. But in the winter I just cannot climb outside, even V0's are painful. While sweaty bois can just use more chalk I guess. I've tried stuff like Rhino Spit in the winter but it doesn't change much. The tips of my fingers are hard as stone, nails are brittle and I feel like I'm trying to grab the holds with wooden chopsticks.
Besides the obvious outrageous finger strenght, the most impressive thing about Aidan is the core strenght and control. That first warmup boulder is just climbed flawlessly
only watched bosi in comp, where he seems a bit high rate, in terms of Temperament. It's really nice seeing him doing his thing where he seems far more chill.
Will is this climber that somehow was a bit under the radar (no disrespect) but his level of strenght and accomplishments by now really do speak for themself. I am really impressed by his work with lattice and im excited for the next ifsc season.
It’s awesome seeing pros on their limit - it looks the same as me trying my projects only that there is a +10 v grade difference 😂
Aidan's "warm up" boulder looks like solid font 7B+
Probably harder
On our board that probably means it's graded about 7A 😅
I pray the future of top level bouldering isn’t sitting in a gym full of replicas
This video has a wedge vibe, love it! Sam L. is at the camera right?
Yeah ☺️. We're lucky to have Sam (from Wedge Climbing) on the camera. Also producing some of the best climbing content on UA-cam!
awesome 💪
Have you considered progressive overload through similar holds of decreasing size? For instance, make more skin friendly replicas of the holds but start at 40mm and decrease the size over time until the moves are easy at a hold size very similar to the real ones then returning to those with more specfic strength. I think you could just place similar holds the same distance above each of the current ones on the replica and work volume specific strength and endurance on those. Great video as always, I hope the replica works!
Aidan has set similar replicas on his home board with wood holds. This is kind of the final evolution of the replica training. Saying that, he's looking to get the textured by Contact Holds in Sheffield. Which might make it a touch more reliable to train on.
Aiden, I love your jacket, where did you get it from?
This is so inconceivably hard it's ridiculous
Congrats on sending actual thing, Bosi!
is this a reupoload? ill watch it anyway
Even grabbing and holding those start holds are probably impossible in my lifetime
with that mindset…yeah
@@paulmanitzas ok, now i will travel there just to proove you wrong
I've been to burden of dreams when I was climbing max font 7B+, there was only one spot where I could hold a position for max 3 seconds, it's in the middle before matching. Starting holds felt impossible and moving from any position to the next felt unimaginable.
I heard that there is currently an exact replica of The Ace.... I know that Adam Ondra flashed it recently. Is anyone training on the replica to flash the original? Do you think that counts? Considering the hooks are 3d printed?
Iv just started climbing, can’t find a way over this climbing elbow pain 😭 my god is bad when it’s bad lol managed to do my first red in the gym, but I know Iv got a long way to go
The only boulder I look at and don’t see being repeated anytime soon
Guess you didn’t see Shawn rab get to the last move in 2 weeks
@@otpeezy5788 link the vid. I know he’s done most of the moves but I haven’t seen any major links
I want to see all 3 guys trying this boulder to visit it at the same time and just send train the thing. Do it dirty. 😂
What trousers is the guy in the purple jumper wearing?
8:36 is where they start trying the boulder
Every second on this boulder is crux
10:16 - What kind of brush wizardry is this?
Why not make a wooden replica with similar but smoother holds for training. The goal being to establish and consistently rehearse the beta before ruining fingers constantly on the replica holds?
Not a bad idea like 15cm left and 15cm up from the original. But don’t think cnc ing those holds might not be easy…
@@karlderdelinckx you could make the holds as smooth as beast maker holds and hang off it all day, without beta reps you aren't going to get strong enough / coordinated enough for this climb, so if skin is holding back reps finding a way to approximate the climb day in day out and not wreck your skin is key, if Lattice want these British climbers to send they need to find ways to allow training these insane climbs without wrecking skin. I'm certain there is a good balance between skin friendly holds and getting the climb hard enough to be close to the real thing, sitting down with one of these climbers and finding that balance is essential to getting this climb repeated quickly.
Because it seems like bouldering at this level is insanely micro beta intensive. As you can see they spend half the video talking about the slightest adjustments of their fingers. These holds are 3d scanned and are as close to the real thing as you can get.
They're not really using this replica to build strength but rather figure out what micro beta will work on the rock. You wouldn't be able to create wooden holds anywhere near as intricate as what they have on their wall.
@@cwehden maybe training on these hard holds will make the skin tougher on the needed places.
I even think rock will be harder on the fingers then plastic.
But training the perfect movement on wooden replica’s might shure help te process.
@@AMM1998 maybe putting the holds on a moving wall so you can start at 20 degrees and go on till you can stick the moves @45 degrees.
How is the app called used to set boulders on the spray wall? Looks nice!
Stokt.
hah, I remember Will and Aidan mentioning in some podcast that nobody would watch them sessioning in the BoD let's see how many viws this gets :D
Funny how there was very little info on or interest in Burden for many years, and now all of a sudden, with Nalle MIA, every strong climber is showing lots of interest.
That “warm up” though 😅
These men are disgustingly strong.
As aidan hasn't been posting as much as Will on this, how close is Aidan to doing the replica?
Aidan is currently in Switzerland sending some hard first accents. So replica training is on hold for Aidan.
How tall are these guys compared to Nalle ?
This warmup was harder then I will ever climb.
Can they make the holds out of wood so they don’t hurt as bad 😢
Nice video
Thanks
What is the app they used to show the climb on the spray board?
stokt
Stokt
Stokt
As someone who also has SUPER WET fingers all the time, I wonder if Will Bosi could share some skin care and friction tips. Because my life is thin-tips-simulator as well as falling off of 10-move-boulders-that-finish-with-a-sloper-hold-City
unfortaunty i really dont ahve much, ive found having a fan to be massive though! Id say other than cold weather thats the best thing
@@WilliamBosi Very happy to hear back from you, thanks for the reply :) !
Guess I'll invest in a fan soon then, all the top guys must be using it for a reason after all lol.
Keep crushing 🤝
So strong, so nerdy.
1 hour warm up??!!!
What's Will's skincare to deal with the sweaty skin?
bad to be honest, never really found a way to help it. using a fan has been the best thing ive found!
@@WilliamBosi ever had much success with antihydral or find it too glassy?
I want to be more like Bosi
Get Nalle on this replica
Lando Norris of climbing ?
I reckon BOD might eventually settle as the worlds first 9A+/V18 when it finally gets a repeat. So many of the world’s best have tried and are not even close. So what’s Nalle doing nowadays? Seems to have dropped off the radar.
He has some videos online, recent ones couple of days ago
he had a strong distaste for social media
Thats a V1 in mah gym bruh
Will seems psyched and Aiden does not lol
V0 at my gym
번역하셨다면 좋아요를 눌러주세요
If Will only trains on the replica until he can solidly do this thing and then does the real Burden first try, would it still count as the first V17/9A Flash? 😅
Nah
@@oliviertrudel2384 then ig sending the replica would count as sending burden
@@alexantone5532 nah coz it's different. however hes still making the real bod easier for him because hes working with similar holds and similar angles
@@oliviertrudel2384you having such an internally inconsistent opinion while also being 200% sure of it just goes to show how hard this qestion is. If it's a different boulder and just "similar" but not the same and that makes it "not a flash", a lot of people would get their flashes revoked because bouldering in a gym tends to have similar moves and holds to the outdoors. It's made to be the same but it will never be the exact same and unless you count ascends on the replica as ascends, you really can't say training on the replica counts as the same as training on the real rock.
No boulder is safe with these 2 sieging, especially with the use of 3D printed replicas
what video is this, there is nothing in it its empty
Climb ° 2030 Lolll
Second?
first