Always helpful . Years after this post . I’m a B5 guy and still have the 99 passat i took the kids to kindergarten in . Son has just helped me swap it to manual . . Never replaced the temp sensor and it’s black . Go figure . You covered all the likeliest potential issues Humble guy . Thks again
Hi mate I have a b5 Audi A4 (same chassis) with a 2.8 V6 I have a hot engine stall and not start issue I will be changing the temp sensor soon hoping it will fix. Did you have the same problem?
Here's something I can only refer to as a cascade failure. Purchased a new beetle cheap. Changed the heater control because the heater wasn't blowing, timing belt, water pump, and tensioner because I wasn't sure when it had been done last or ever done, since the odometer reads 130,000. Before I changed these, I noticed no heat from heater. Replaced the thermostat. It was stuck open. After that I found radiator fans weren't working. After testing found the thermo switch wasn't working. After all of that, suddenly got a code for the ect. Replaced that, now I have heat. I only paid 800 for the beetle, and I plan on driving the heck out of this car. I call it my beater bug. It runs really great! It's so fun to drive, and it's bigger on the inside! I guess that's why it was only 800 bucks! I've done much more to this car, but the cooling system had been badly neglected. Not really that expensive to fix. Oh. And one more thing. I tried to replace the reservoir on it but the after market bottle that I got from autozone had a problem. The pins in the sensor were too short and the connector wouldn't make contact so it kept giving a red flashing light on the dash. I ended up putting the old one back on and took that after market piece of junk back to autozone. That's my story. 5 speed standard. I love this bug!
Can I join your nightmare , It was recommended for me to change thermostat and W/p + belt , until local mechanic put things right for me. I spent £180 for previous work , the offending part was £5.95😂
Volkswagens, everyone calls them trash yet you replace 4 parts, all very diy, and they run for another 20 years 🤷♀️🤣🤣 my golf is 20, I bought her super cheap, she wasn't loved at all, so now I'm replacing her sad parts and turning her into the car she can be. Though the entire thing, she's run. I'll never own another car. Vdub for life.
I basically have the Jetta that is your beetle. 5 speed w/ the 2.0 CBPA. Dude, you take care of it, fantastic and reliable setup that's relatively cheap to maintain. Only thing I insist on, have the dealer do your oil changes and flush the coolant every 2 or 3 years. Also heads up, don't be surprised if you find oil in your coolant soon. The oil coolers fail pretty often, on my third in 200k miles. Keeping really good coolant and checking your fluids at least once a week will save you from bigger problems down the line with this issue as you can get coolant in your engine when this cooler fails, vent your reservoir after running the engine anytime you turn your car off to keep it from pushing into the oil. Otherwise under pressure it'll push the other way since oil is under a much higher PSI. I had thus issue for months and surprising I never had an issue. The dealer is happy to preemptively tell you about certain maintenance though so it's worth the expensive oil change. Always Castrol 5~40 Edge Syn too!
My 2004 VW Golf started taking multiple tries to get it to start when the engine was cold from sitting a few hours. I replaced the Coolant Temperature sensor and it cured the problem immediately.
Dude! I don't know what to do without you? You have been my go-to guy since buying my 99 Jetta MK4. You are very informative and I especially appreciate your dissecting parts for better understanding. Wish you lived closer LOL You'd be my new bestie ❤😉 Please don't go anywhere!
Hey Charles... love your clips very informative, and doesn't treat us like dummies. Having issues with a New Beetle - just fitted new MAF - made no difference, but your explanation of the temp sensor makes loads of sense ( Really bad cold start, huge dead spot once running) . It's a green one, but cheap enough to replace. And easier than the next step which has to be the fuel filter & pump.
When you buy a VW they should give you a box with extra parts for the whole damn car as there are no parts that will not need replacing soon, it seems as if they go out of their way to make things as unreliable as possible.
Thanks for this video HM! I had the starting problem with my 2000 Eurovan VR6. Replacing the GREEN Coolant Temp Sensor fixed my starting problem. I didn't know there's 4 Coolant Temp Sensors in my engine. Crazy!
@@HumbleMechanic Your video helped convinced me it was the green CTS. Had to share your video to my mechanic to also convince him. Haha. Now he's a HM fan too!
I don't like the phrase fail. As if they are to last forever. These are parts that wear out due to use. His information is educational and very instructive.
Charles, you are true PROFESSIONAL!!!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge! Quick question, on my 2012 VW CC, it runs rough at cold idle with random misfires. At 39 degrees Fahrenheit it reads 3,930 ohms. Once it warms up all smooths out. Temp gauge operates normal. I'm thinking temp sensor?? What do you think?
The cts in my alh was actually reading about 15% higher then actual temp. It’s cold out so when warmed up the gauge was right in the middle seemed normal but when I go to start it in the morning the glow plugs wouldn’t turn on for more then a second because it thinks it’s warmer outside.
I have an '06 2.5 beetle. About 5 seconds after starting, the coolant light turns from blue to red. I turn it off an restart, which currently does the trick. I went ahead and ordered the CTS.. thanks for the video.
Good talk. I'm always looking for information on how long parts usually last, under what conditions parts fail or wear out sooner, how to check a part for failure, etc. Thanks for the failure info on temperature sensors.
@humblemechanic was really sad when you didn't cover the major issues that a faulty ECT can cause a TDI...... Glow plugs won't engage if it's bad, even if it doesn't show a code. You can unplug it and your glow plugs will work again to start a TDI car when it's cold. A bad ECT will also cause a TDI to run so rich that out won't start or run without smoking and choking you out. It would be nice to see you make a separate video labeled "TDI ECT problems" or something similar covering all the possible and common issues. Thanks a bunch either way, great video for gassers for sure!
Failed on my B6 at the time. Had the meter fall down and pop-up again. Was gone after replacing. Now looking at replacing the one on my A5 B8 as it's not running all that well when cold and running under 2K rpm.
hi Charles, thanks for that support. But kindly help me on this as well, have a Passat 2006 with a BZB engine but having a Random misfire in all the cylinders yet the coils, spark plugs and injectors are all new. It goes on and gives off dirty exhaust. Would you think that the problem could be with the coolant sensor or something else because we measured the compression for all the cylinders and they were fine.
Hey man! I just found your videos and they rock. I have a MK4 question if you don’t mind giving me a hand. As soon as I turn my ignition key on my fans start. Doesn’t matter where the knob is(I.e. feet, face, defrost, ect). I’ve unplugged multiple points such as the coolant temp sensor(working btw) the high pressure ac sensor, ac compressor, and they will only shut off when I unplug the FCM. So I ordered one of those but just wanted to run past you!
If you have time, I'd love to know why there's 2 sensors right next to each other on the water distribution flange of the 2001 Cabrio I'm working on. A green 4 pin, and a white 2 pin.
I've had a no start issue with my 2002 vw jetta tdi (manual transmission) for the last couple of years. After sitting with a charger on the disconnected battery for variable periods of time the car would start and run fine. It was a crap shoot whether or not it would start a second time. The instrument cluster warning lights would flicker and sometimes there would be clicking of the relays under the dash. Recently, the temperature warning light started intermittently flashing on and off and the same symptoms as described would occur and the car would not start again. Today, I replaced the temperature sensor and after replacing the coolant that I lost in the process I started the car and let it run for a couple of minutes. It started and ran fine as usual. I was able to stop and start the car multiple times without the warning light symptoms, clicking of relays, etc. I'll see if the the coolant temperature sensor was the problem in the next couple of weeks. The sensor is the green, four wire type. Thanks for the intelligent videos!
Hey charles, great video! I've been getting what I think is vapor lock, and a check engine light for the coolant temp sensor. hopefully that will correct it. thanks for the video !!
Dude, Thanks alot. Ive been having an issue with both of my fans staying on for over 10 min after the car has been off. i recently got a CEL took it to Autozone and the told me with was ECT. After watching your video ill be changing it for sure. thanks!
thanks for the tip i have just ordered the sensor i have a bad coolant flange and working also on the lower arm suspention on a 2002 new beetle thanks to your video of lower arm with polyurethan i will réplicas both of them
Please excuse the long post. first of all, Many thanks for the Video, it really helped me resolve an issue similar to what you described, but i would love to get your comments on the subject, i have an Audi A6 C6 2.0TFSI 2008, a few months back, i noticed that the coolant gauge cluster was not working. and since i still maintain my car in the dealer, i took it for inspection, once they had a look at it, they found a code (forgot which one) and they cleared it, the gauge started working again. On the same day, the gauge failed again, so they had another look. after a full day inspection, they replied that the issue was in the ECU module. their assumption was based on the fact that gauges are working fine (they tested them), the ECTS was working fine, since even though the dashboard gauge was not working, the ECU was still able to read the temperature and start the fan accordingly when it get hot, and that all wiring within the car was not short circuit. it was not a good news for me. so i did a few research, and i watched your video, and next day i came back and i asked them to change both ECTS (my car has the 2 wire model -black), and to change the thermostat also (since it was partially stuck open). so far 3 months passed, and its still working. what do you think? i have asked other audi service shops, and they replied that similar cases were noticed to other customers, but with different resolutions types. one of the service shops told me, that one customer changed his ECU module, but the problem came back and he just gave up. i know the saying (if its not broken, don't try to fix it), i just want to understand, in the 2 wire ECTS module, how is it possible that the ECU was able to read the temperature changes, while the gauge cluster was not, if its the 4 wire system, its logical, as there are 2 signals through 2 separate channels were one of them could fail, but on the 2 wire system, how its usually working?
Hi, Please help!! I have the problem with engine start when it’s warm. I read on specific forums that the issue can be this temperature sensor.What do you know about this? When it’s cold it start perfectly,but after the engine is warm ,if i stop it, it will not start anymore, i have to let it for about 20-30 min . VW Touareg 3.0 V6 year 2006. Thanks a lot in advance!🙏
Hey Charles, very detailed video btw..Can you come up with answer about my 01 ALH engine ECT (as my mechanic calls it), strange behaviour? Just installed a new tested ECT, however I'm faced with same phenomenon as with the previous existing ECT: While I turn the ignition on (at - 15 C weather condition), there's no power going to the Glow Plugs! When I disconnect the ECT plug, np, power goes to the glow plugs as it should, then cuts off after three min while engine running (on any case, no power whatsoever comes to the three Coolant Heater Glow Plugs)! I did also got the same phenomenon after putting another ECU in the car! My mechanic now is talking about all kinds costly possibilities and I'm thinking to simply put a power cut off switch behind ECT plug, to use it just to start the car (which isn't what I like to do anyway). Thank you in advance..
Charles i could really really use your help. So. My mkiv GTI VR6 coolant fans will not come on. I swapped a new motor in and haven’t been able to fix them yet. They worked fine before. I’ve replace the rad fan coolant sensor on the radiator and the fcm. Still no luck. Fans will come on with ac and if I jump the connections both high and low speeds work. I’ve checked all wiring and I can not figure it out. Please help🥺
My mother-in-law has a 2001 EuroVan. No major problems with it so far. The water temperature gauge does not move. The fans come on as soon as you turn on the car. The heater never starts blowing hot air it only warms up a couple of degrees but the fans continue to run and the motor does not overheat. Could a coolant temperature sensor cause this or is it a bad thermostat? Would really appreciate some help with this. Trying to do something for a mother-in-law!!! Merry Christmas
Hey HM, hoping for some advise on next trouble shooting an issue on my 2003 Jetta 2.0L Have an issue where the temperature gauge will creep up to the mark past 190 and then after a minute so when quickly drop back to 190. After driving longer it will creep the the second mark past 190 and again after a minute or so drop back to 190. During the window at the second mark there is also a notable performance drop in the A/C. The coolant level in the overflow is fine. The radiator fans are at least spinning while idling, but is hard to tell while driving when I notice when the temperature rising. I have replaced the Coolant Temperature Sensor to no avail. What are your thoughts for replacing/testing next? Thermostat? Rad Fans? Rad?
I bought an 2003 vw gti with a check engine light, it was hard starting, and stopped starting, i got a cel for a short in the ect, it was a light green sensor that failed , they're cheap and easy to replace though
Geeze i hope you see this. My CTS in my 01 jetta VR6 is vibrating and feels like a little motor running after the car is off. The temp reading is fine but im going to replace it anyway. Just really weird like the connectors are frying the coolant inside.
obd2 scanners got me at 200 or over before fan comes on ive replaced the air conditioning switch and the radiator temp switch im onto the cooling inlet ets ... my runs have been straight hiway and the fan seldom comes on if after i park in the drive and continue to idle the fan will come on slow i changed the fan for funny noises wasnt the best viscosity but i still i get the common read of 200 degs or more before fans ... im questioning heat prostration during trips like terrible in lower gears after long drive
My parent's 1.4 Polo SE from 2010 has had this issue for a few years now, so this seems to be the part at fault, and unfortunately we are suffering the issue where the vehicle just will not start at all when it gets very hot, as the car isn't used to high ambient temperature here in the UK, when it reaches above 30c outside the engine will be tempromental causing it to fail to start, so I will look more into this but I believe that is what it is.
Is it possible to have both a code for this sensor and the cooling fan circuit at the same time and it only be the fans? I had 2 codes. Changed this little guy to the green one. Had a green one in it, but who knows how old it is. And it was corroded a bit. I still have both codes. Realized one fan is coming on. The other isn't. The one that is on is the secondary one that comes on second. Its stuck doing all the work. I'm thinking maybe the fan module? I was thinking of buying the whole fan assembly with both fans and module. The temp has only thrown a red light once but Temp read don't match the actual temp. I'm thinking of putting those fans in and a real temp gauge. I hate that there isn't a gauge.
I have a 2009 Tiguan with a P0118 code high output for sensor 1. There are two sensors and they are both new as I just replaced the water pump and while I was in there I just put in two new sensors. But I can not figure out what sensor is #1 and what is #2. I want to assume sensor #1 is at the water pump but want to confirm before digging into it deeper. BTW this code existed before I replaced the water pump.
2007 Jetta code p2181 and its not overheating, however I noticed that only one fan works with the AC turned on. Replace the ect first, then the fan? Be the smaller fan.
Hi i have a 2006 jetta with the BRM engin and i had an OBD error P0183 Fuel temperature sensor A circuit High , it referes to a Fuel temperature sensor that looks exactly the same a s the coolant temp sensor you mentioned inteh video , i wanted to know if i replace the fuel temp sensor will eventually a little fuel leakwhile installing the new one ,so how do i remove the air buble in teh fuel circuit once the sensor replaced thanks for all the great videos Karim
Hi, I know this is an old video but I need some please. So I replaced the radiator and fans on my 09 Rabbit. My fans do not work and overheats at idle when sitting in traffic for about 10-15mins. I checked relays and fuses. They look fine. Is there something I am missing? Could it possibly be the part you are talking about in this video?
On my mk4 TDI golf. I have the 4 pin. The two pins that went to the cluster worked fine, guage was perfect. Two pins went to the ecm and it cause a no start in the winter due to the glow plugs not working. Took for ever to figure out. Forums said to unplug it as see if the glow plugs lights stayed on for 30 seconds and it did. That means bad sensor. Replaced it with a green one and it was perfect.
i've got a mk4 GTi 1.8t. Broke down today, cut out when I was slowing down after losing power, won't start, and when it does it idles for 30 seconds and cuts out again. Had the P1296 code (Coolant System Malfunction). Replaced the CTS a couple months ago but it was a cheap one for £5. Is it likely to be the CTS or thermostat?
have a 2015 golf 1.8l hatchback. check engine light on and scan says coolant bypass valve. only 137k on vehicle. Mechanic says replace the part -4hrs labor and part is nearly 400. !!!My thinking is its the connector or sensor not the part. Dealer tells me sensor in coolant overflow could trigger check engine . Mechanic looked up and felt connnector and said it felt gummy. Is that the sensor or connector and how long should it take to replace it?
My mark 4 (1999) Golf indicates a coolant temp at around 60 degrees while cruising in cold weather (about 10 degrees ambient or lower). Noticed this after I replaced the radiator after a minor crash. The new radiator has a higher fin density. Could it be that the new radiator is too efficient?
I have a 2001 2 L beetle that has non working instrument cluster. Speedometer tach and fuel do not work. Register at zero. The odometer does work. Are you suggesting that the temp control sensor could be the cause? Thanks. Rob
My wife has a Mk4 (Type 1J) MY2000 and it is the 1.6 Comfortline. We are having problems with the car making a backfiring noise (noise is local to the engine bay...'buck' noise). I have just replaced the coilpack as I've seen sparks jump from it to an adjacent spark lead. Spark leads and spark plugs are replaced after a dead No. 3 cylinder lead was discovered. With the coilpack now replaced i.e. changed out VW# 032 905 106B with 032 905 106F (newer revision) and still have slight RPM instability at idle and when accelerating I still feel a type of drag as if the car isn't making the demanded power at that instant. Having scanned the vehicle, all errors i get are the following (Note: this is a replacement lambda sensor after old was replaced): 4 Faults Found: 00525 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor (G39) 05-10 - Input Open - Intermittent 00525 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor (G39) 07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent 00537 - Lambda (Oxygen Sensor) Regulation 19-00 - Lower Limit 00525 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor (G39) 27-00 - Implausible Signal Furthermore, the engine consumes oil, but not a whiff of smoke out the exhaust or drips. Just some on the perimeter of the intake manifold and not much trace of leaks. Any suggestions as I'm going mad after spending ZAR 3800 ($321 equivalent) on the coilpack. Looking forward to replies
Hey Charles, Thanks for such a great informative video, I have a question if you have a couple of minutes to answer it pplease as that was not answered in the video, I've got a 2.5tdi 2009 T5 transporter, it has 2 coolant sensors, one 2pin on the rad and a 4 pin on the block. the fault i have is both rad fans come on full spin as soon as i put the ignition on and switch off only when i switch the ignition off. Which sensor could it be at fault? thanks karl
Hey Charles, I know this is an old vid--still, thanks for this one. Had a question--I have this 16v running on Digifant 2 and its idle is bouncing only on cold start. It is stable when warmed up. Am I correct in suspecting that the blue coolant temp sensor is at fault? If so, do I wait for the car to be in operating temp before I unplug the blue CTS and rev to 3k 3 times to reset the ECU/CTS?
my friend please can you tell me the wiring harness of my four wire sensor i have a audi a2 and the conector was broke so i cant find the proper connections
Can there be no code and be bad? Sometimes the 1.9L beetle 03 will not start, acts like a fuel pump problem with around 140,000 miles. Please help, thanks
MY VW Amarok has had a cooling system issue recently where it seemed the water temp was colder than it should be. While driving the car, the temp would be around 84 deg, but drop down to 50deg C. Then sometimes go up to 93-96, but quickly back down. I have had the thermostat changed, and while running the first time, the temp steadily went up to 94deg C and was up and down around that temp, but when idling my car for a while, the temp gauge drops down to 45deg C, and while idling, it stays around this low temp. Is that normal for the temp to be that low at idle?
2011 Golf 2.5 Charles, I'm so glad I found your videos! Thanks! Now my question: Is this sensor also where it gets the reading for oil temp in the MFA readout? My dash gauge goes to 190 fairly quick and pretty much stays, but the oil temp reading is all over the place, and sometimes will drop 20 Deg. F just turning the car off and then on. It has a no-start issue sometimes when I drive a while, then turn it off for a few minutes. Usually, the oil temp reading goes from something like 175 to 190 or so, to '---' (less than 122F/50C) and won't start. I think it might be dumping gas in and flooding, since it thinks the engine is cold. I think this car has a two terminal sensor, so only one thermistor.
Cooling fan runs constant whether cars running or not. VW 2012 Tiguan S 2.0 with 97,000 miles. Besides the cooling temp sensor what else could be causing this problem. No error codes or even engine light on. For now I disconnect the battery when I stop. Please help.
On an A4 b8 2.0t tfsi is the engine coolant temp sensor on the water pump unit or at the back of the engine? My temperature gauge goes from to center to one notch above and back down and back up. I can tell it's the sensor but people say its in various places. Please help.
Nice video. I am getting the p1296 code error for VW Golf A4. I checked the sensor and it is fine. Do you know about the voltage that must provide the circuit for this sensor? As far as I know It must provide 5v for both thermistors. Not sure if the circuit is the problem or the thermostat. Regards
I have 2011 Passat tdi I am just wondering if the coolant sensor will make my heaters blow hot and cold air. What I mean is the heaters am going warm on stand still but when I rev the car up the heat starts to come out hot..any suggestions out there please..
Hi I have questions I have Mk4 Jetta 2001 tdi and i start having problems starting car when temperature is near cold car will have long cracks befor start but when is cold below 32 start with no problem also I noticed unplugging coolant sensor start with no problem. One more thing when is near cold glow light inside don't stay for long comparing to when under 32. Can you please help Thanks
I have 2013 Passat 2.5l changed the over flow bottle and flushed the coolant. Now light comes on says add coolant but bottle level is fine and temp stays at 190 degrees. Any help appreciated.
I could use some help i’m swapping in an ALH into an 87 cabriolet I’m trying to use the factory coolant sensor that’s a four pin with the wiring from the cabriolet which is a 2 pin but not sure if it will work
Last week my Golf V GTI ECT gauge was showing appx. 170F after 10 minutes drive, I thought that’s weird so I shut the key off while I was driving and turn back to on as soon as I shut it off, after that the temperature showed zero, I repeated the process one more time and gauge is in the middle where it should be. And I did it a couple times more and it would just randomly fell in those three readings constantly. Zero, 170 and normal. And it kept doing that almost every day last week. But this whole week the gauge was reading normal, not even a single time did it read weird. I replaced the thermostat about two months ago before that happened, and I replaced the instrument cluster about three weeks ago. What could be the problem?
I'm having an issue on my 2007 GLI with both cooling fans not turning on, Ive checked the fans and all fuses inside and under the hood including the relays, all are good. does the CTS control the cooling fans on/off? not sure what to check next.
hey Humble mechanic I have a 2013 Jetta 2.0L. I have a ECT code P0118 (G62) sensor. On top of that its keeping both my AC and rad fan on at all times full speed.
Hi brother I keep getting randomly fan kicks of and rpm goes off from 850 to 1100 even in cold could it be coolant temp sensor the temperature shows okay
I have replaced ton's on those sensors the cars that are not fun to replace is the v6 or 4 cylinder Passat or Audi the ALH TDI are some time stuck in the Aluminum housings (manual gear box only) the easiest are the 2 litre 8 valve engine the sensor is upright and you loose almost no coolant have you notice when a car that has the original temp.sensor on the black ones there is always a yellow paint dot on it .
A no start you say? I've been trying to figure this out for a year; battery, starter and everything else I could swap quickly and test. 1.8t mk4 gti '04 usually takes between one or two cranks or a straight clunk then a crank then a start. Always starts no codes and temp sensor never drops out. Does it on cold and warm starts all alike. Opinion?
I've got a weird one on cold starts as soon as key is on temp gauge shoots up to 190. I've got a cts on the way. Also I noticed a little coolant in the center of electrical connection I'm assuming the sensor is the issue just never seen one cause the gauge to do this. What's your thoughts?
@humblemechanic Hello brother, i have an issue in my car for a month and i still not able to fix it When the engine oil goes over 80 degrees celsius, the engine start misfiring, and on idle the engine dies, changed the sparks, injectors, fuel pump Any ideas?? Thanks a lot
Always helpful . Years after this post . I’m a B5 guy and still have the 99 passat i took the kids to kindergarten in . Son has just helped me swap it to manual . . Never replaced the temp sensor and it’s black . Go figure . You covered all the likeliest potential issues Humble guy . Thks again
Hi mate I have a b5 Audi A4 (same chassis) with a 2.8 V6 I have a hot engine stall and not start issue I will be changing the temp sensor soon hoping it will fix. Did you have the same problem?
Here's something I can only refer to as a cascade failure. Purchased a new beetle cheap. Changed the heater control because the heater wasn't blowing, timing belt, water pump, and tensioner because I wasn't sure when it had been done last or ever done, since the odometer reads 130,000. Before I changed these, I noticed no heat from heater. Replaced the thermostat. It was stuck open. After that I found radiator fans weren't working. After testing found the thermo switch wasn't working. After all of that, suddenly got a code for the ect. Replaced that, now I have heat. I only paid 800 for the beetle, and I plan on driving the heck out of this car. I call it my beater bug. It runs really great! It's so fun to drive, and it's bigger on the inside! I guess that's why it was only 800 bucks! I've done much more to this car, but the cooling system had been badly neglected. Not really that expensive to fix. Oh. And one more thing. I tried to replace the reservoir on it but the after market bottle that I got from autozone had a problem. The pins in the sensor were too short and the connector wouldn't make contact so it kept giving a red flashing light on the dash. I ended up putting the old one back on and took that after market piece of junk back to autozone. That's my story. 5 speed standard. I love this bug!
Can I join your nightmare , It was recommended for me to change thermostat and W/p + belt , until local mechanic put things right for me.
I spent £180 for previous work , the offending part was £5.95😂
Volkswagens, everyone calls them trash yet you replace 4 parts, all very diy, and they run for another 20 years 🤷♀️🤣🤣 my golf is 20, I bought her super cheap, she wasn't loved at all, so now I'm replacing her sad parts and turning her into the car she can be. Though the entire thing, she's run. I'll never own another car. Vdub for life.
What year is your beetle?
@@powdere4donuts
It was a 2000. I sold it to downsize.
I basically have the Jetta that is your beetle. 5 speed w/ the 2.0 CBPA. Dude, you take care of it, fantastic and reliable setup that's relatively cheap to maintain. Only thing I insist on, have the dealer do your oil changes and flush the coolant every 2 or 3 years. Also heads up, don't be surprised if you find oil in your coolant soon. The oil coolers fail pretty often, on my third in 200k miles. Keeping really good coolant and checking your fluids at least once a week will save you from bigger problems down the line with this issue as you can get coolant in your engine when this cooler fails, vent your reservoir after running the engine anytime you turn your car off to keep it from pushing into the oil. Otherwise under pressure it'll push the other way since oil is under a much higher PSI. I had thus issue for months and surprising I never had an issue. The dealer is happy to preemptively tell you about certain maintenance though so it's worth the expensive oil change. Always Castrol 5~40 Edge Syn too!
My 2004 VW Golf started taking multiple tries to get it to start when the engine was cold from sitting a few hours. I replaced the Coolant Temperature sensor and it cured the problem immediately.
Did you have a code?
Dude! I don't know what to do without you? You have been my go-to guy since buying my 99 Jetta MK4. You are very informative and I especially appreciate your dissecting parts for better understanding. Wish you lived closer LOL You'd be my new bestie ❤😉 Please don't go anywhere!
Hey Charles... love your clips very informative, and doesn't treat us like dummies. Having issues with a New Beetle - just fitted new MAF - made no difference, but your explanation of the temp sensor makes loads of sense ( Really bad cold start, huge dead spot once running) . It's a green one, but cheap enough to replace. And easier than the next step which has to be the fuel filter & pump.
When you buy a VW they should include an extra coolant sensor in the glove box because you're going to replace it eventually.
Garth Goldberg LOL I have replaced enough of them to kind of agree. But I think price wise, they are about $40
When you buy a VW they should give you a box with extra parts for the whole damn car as there are no parts that will not need replacing soon, it seems as if they go out of their way to make things as unreliable as possible.
Philip Koen. I have a Volkswagen Jetta 2011 with 110,000 miles and never have this sensor bad , is a very reliable car so far
Garth Goldberg j
The only difference between a Volkswagen and a bucket of shit is the bucket..
Can this cause an engine overheating?, currently have a similar situation but far from home to fix it?
Thanks for this video HM! I had the starting problem with my 2000 Eurovan VR6. Replacing the GREEN Coolant Temp Sensor fixed my starting problem. I didn't know there's 4 Coolant Temp Sensors in my engine. Crazy!
The Eurovan is a whole different beast!
@@HumbleMechanic Your video helped convinced me it was the green CTS. Had to share your video to my mechanic to also convince him. Haha. Now he's a HM fan too!
I don't like the phrase fail. As if they are to last forever. These are parts that wear out due to use. His information is educational and very instructive.
Hello Charles my gauge shows 190F but my OBD live data shows 230F. Can you suggest what might be the problem?
Charles, you are true PROFESSIONAL!!!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Quick question, on my 2012 VW CC, it runs rough at cold idle with random misfires. At 39 degrees Fahrenheit it reads 3,930 ohms. Once it warms up all smooths out. Temp gauge operates normal. I'm thinking temp sensor?? What do you think?
Thank you this video helped a lot and was more than informative. We need more in depth people like yourself
+Adam Landry glad to be able to help! :)
+Adam Landry glad to be able to help! :)
Thank you so much replacing it today so glad my son recommended you 👍
Just had one done at VW dealership on 2014 Tiguan....360.00 and I had the new one with me. LOVE my VW.
The cts in my alh was actually reading about 15% higher then actual temp. It’s cold out so when warmed up the gauge was right in the middle seemed normal but when I go to start it in the morning the glow plugs wouldn’t turn on for more then a second because it thinks it’s warmer outside.
I have an '06 2.5 beetle. About 5 seconds after starting, the coolant light turns from blue to red. I turn it off an restart, which currently does the trick. I went ahead and ordered the CTS.. thanks for the video.
+Michael P that sounds like maybe coolant bottle issue
Would a bad ect sensor also prevent my cooling fan to function at all on my b5.5 passat 1.8t?
Love your channel btw.
thank you
Good talk. I'm always looking for information on how long parts usually last, under what conditions parts fail or wear out sooner, how to check a part for failure, etc. Thanks for the failure info on temperature sensors.
@humblemechanic was really sad when you didn't cover the major issues that a faulty ECT can cause a TDI...... Glow plugs won't engage if it's bad, even if it doesn't show a code. You can unplug it and your glow plugs will work again to start a TDI car when it's cold. A bad ECT will also cause a TDI to run so rich that out won't start or run without smoking and choking you out. It would be nice to see you make a separate video labeled "TDI ECT problems" or something similar covering all the possible and common issues. Thanks a bunch either way, great video for gassers for sure!
Failed on my B6 at the time. Had the meter fall down and pop-up again. Was gone after replacing.
Now looking at replacing the one on my A5 B8 as it's not running all that well when cold and running under 2K rpm.
2001 beetle 1.9 coolant migrated in the wires causing a no start. Waiting on the new harness now. Hope it works!
hi Charles, thanks for that support. But kindly help me on this as well, have a Passat 2006 with a BZB engine but having a Random misfire in all the cylinders yet the coils, spark plugs and injectors are all new. It goes on and gives off dirty exhaust. Would you think that the problem could be with the coolant sensor or something else because we measured the compression for all the cylinders and they were fine.
Hey man! I just found your videos and they rock. I have a MK4 question if you don’t mind giving me a hand. As soon as I turn my ignition key on my fans start. Doesn’t matter where the knob is(I.e. feet, face, defrost, ect). I’ve unplugged multiple points such as the coolant temp sensor(working btw) the high pressure ac sensor, ac compressor, and they will only shut off when I unplug the FCM. So I ordered one of those but just wanted to run past you!
I recently replaced mine on my 1.8t Polo GTi and I immediately noticed good fuel consumption so if you have this fault I recommend replacing it asap.
Do you have a video on how to change one?
.
If you have time, I'd love to know why there's 2 sensors right next to each other on the water distribution flange of the 2001 Cabrio I'm working on. A green 4 pin, and a white 2 pin.
I've had a no start issue with my 2002 vw jetta tdi (manual transmission) for the last couple of years. After sitting with a charger on the disconnected battery for variable periods of time the car would start and run fine. It was a crap shoot whether or not it would start a second time. The instrument cluster warning lights would flicker and sometimes there would be clicking of the relays under the dash. Recently, the temperature warning light started intermittently flashing on and off and the same symptoms as described would occur and the car would not start again. Today, I replaced the temperature sensor and after replacing the coolant that I lost in the process I started the car and let it run for a couple of minutes. It started and ran fine as usual. I was able to stop and start the car multiple times without the warning light symptoms, clicking of relays, etc. I'll see if the the coolant temperature sensor was the problem in the next couple of weeks. The sensor is the green, four wire type. Thanks for the intelligent videos!
Hey charles, great video! I've been getting what I think is vapor lock, and a check engine light for the coolant temp sensor. hopefully that will correct it. thanks for the video !!
aaaaand, I dropped the clip into the engine compartment and I cant find it
Excellent video! $15 part when salesperson wanted me to replace the starter!!
Dealership wants over $700 to replace it and the plugs.
Dude, Thanks alot. Ive been having an issue with both of my fans staying on for over 10 min after the car has been off. i recently got a CEL took it to Autozone and the told me with was ECT. After watching your video ill be changing it for sure. thanks!
thanks for the tip i have just ordered the sensor i have a bad coolant flange and working also on the lower arm suspention on a 2002 new beetle thanks to your video of lower arm with polyurethan i will réplicas both of them
Hey humble man. On a 2015 gti, could a bad coolant temp sensor cause the car to stall at idle? It's increasing fuel pressure high AF before it stalls.
Please excuse the long post. first of all, Many thanks for the Video, it really helped me resolve an issue similar to what you described, but i would love to get your comments on the subject, i have an Audi A6 C6 2.0TFSI 2008, a few months back, i noticed that the coolant gauge cluster was not working. and since i still maintain my car in the dealer, i took it for inspection, once they had a look at it, they found a code (forgot which one) and they cleared it, the gauge started working again. On the same day, the gauge failed again, so they had another look. after a full day inspection, they replied that the issue was in the ECU module. their assumption was based on the fact that gauges are working fine (they tested them), the ECTS was working fine, since even though the dashboard gauge was not working, the ECU was still able to read the temperature and start the fan accordingly when it get hot, and that all wiring within the car was not short circuit. it was not a good news for me. so i did a few research, and i watched your video, and next day i came back and i asked them to change both ECTS (my car has the 2 wire model -black), and to change the thermostat also (since it was partially stuck open). so far 3 months passed, and its still working. what do you think? i have asked other audi service shops, and they replied that similar cases were noticed to other customers, but with different resolutions types. one of the service shops told me, that one customer changed his ECU module, but the problem came back and he just gave up. i know the saying (if its not broken, don't try to fix it), i just want to understand, in the 2 wire ECTS module, how is it possible that the ECU was able to read the temperature changes, while the gauge cluster was not, if its the 4 wire system, its logical, as there are 2 signals through 2 separate channels were one of them could fail, but on the 2 wire system, how its usually working?
Hi,
Please help!!
I have the problem with engine start when it’s warm.
I read on specific forums that the issue can be this temperature sensor.What do you know about this?
When it’s cold it start perfectly,but after the engine is warm ,if i stop it, it will not start anymore, i have to let it for about 20-30 min .
VW Touareg 3.0 V6 year 2006.
Thanks a lot in advance!🙏
Hey Charles, very detailed video btw..Can you come up with answer about my 01 ALH engine ECT (as my mechanic calls it), strange behaviour? Just installed a new tested ECT, however I'm faced with same phenomenon as with the previous existing ECT: While I turn the ignition on (at - 15 C weather condition), there's no power going to the Glow Plugs! When I disconnect the ECT plug, np, power goes to the glow plugs as it should, then cuts off after three min while engine running (on any case, no power whatsoever comes to the three Coolant Heater Glow Plugs)! I did also got the same phenomenon after putting another ECU in the car! My mechanic now is talking about all kinds costly possibilities and I'm thinking to simply put a power cut off switch behind ECT plug, to use it just to start the car (which isn't what I like to do anyway). Thank you in advance..
Question, would a bad cooling control sensor even when it drops to zero will it cause the cooling fans to turn on??
thats exactly whats going on with my 2001 audi allroad! thanks
On the four prong water temperature sensor does one of the prongs operate the idiot light on the dash panel
You have the best videos!
Green vs black. Now there is grey. Hmmm..... How about a video on finding it and the correct procedure in changing it? Still, great info!
Charles i could really really use your help. So. My mkiv GTI VR6 coolant fans will not come on. I swapped a new motor in and haven’t been able to fix them yet. They worked fine before. I’ve replace the rad fan coolant sensor on the radiator and the fcm. Still no luck. Fans will come on with ac and if I jump the connections both high and low speeds work. I’ve checked all wiring and I can not figure it out. Please help🥺
My mother-in-law has a 2001 EuroVan. No major problems with it so far. The water temperature gauge does not move. The fans come on as soon as you turn on the car. The heater never starts blowing hot air it only warms up a couple of degrees but the fans continue to run and the motor does not overheat. Could a coolant temperature sensor cause this or is it a bad thermostat? Would really appreciate some help with this. Trying to do something for a mother-in-law!!! Merry Christmas
2003 passat. Thank you for your knowledge.
Hey HM, hoping for some advise on next trouble shooting an issue on my 2003 Jetta 2.0L
Have an issue where the temperature gauge will creep up to the mark past 190 and then after a minute so when quickly drop back to 190. After driving longer it will creep the the second mark past 190 and again after a minute or so drop back to 190. During the window at the second mark there is also a notable performance drop in the A/C.
The coolant level in the overflow is fine. The radiator fans are at least spinning while idling, but is hard to tell while driving when I notice when the temperature rising.
I have replaced the Coolant Temperature Sensor to no avail. What are your thoughts for replacing/testing next? Thermostat? Rad Fans? Rad?
I bought an 2003 vw gti with a check engine light, it was hard starting, and stopped starting, i got a cel for a short in the ect, it was a light green sensor that failed , they're cheap and easy to replace though
Geeze i hope you see this. My CTS in my 01 jetta VR6 is vibrating and feels like a little motor running after the car is off. The temp reading is fine but im going to replace it anyway. Just really weird like the connectors are frying the coolant inside.
obd2 scanners got me at 200 or over before fan comes on ive replaced the air conditioning switch and the radiator temp switch im onto the cooling inlet ets ... my runs have been straight hiway and the fan seldom comes on if after i park in the drive and continue to idle the fan will come on slow i changed the fan for funny noises wasnt the best viscosity but i still i get the common read of 200 degs or more before fans ... im questioning heat prostration during trips like terrible in lower gears after long drive
My parent's 1.4 Polo SE from 2010 has had this issue for a few years now, so this seems to be the part at fault, and unfortunately we are suffering the issue where the vehicle just will not start at all when it gets very hot, as the car isn't used to high ambient temperature here in the UK, when it reaches above 30c outside the engine will be tempromental causing it to fail to start, so I will look more into this but I believe that is what it is.
Is it possible to have both a code for this sensor and the cooling fan circuit at the same time and it only be the fans? I had 2 codes. Changed this little guy to the green one. Had a green one in it, but who knows how old it is. And it was corroded a bit. I still have both codes. Realized one fan is coming on. The other isn't. The one that is on is the secondary one that comes on second. Its stuck doing all the work. I'm thinking maybe the fan module? I was thinking of buying the whole fan assembly with both fans and module. The temp has only thrown a red light once but Temp read don't match the actual temp. I'm thinking of putting those fans in and a real temp gauge. I hate that there isn't a gauge.
I have a 2009 Tiguan with a P0118 code high output for sensor 1. There are two sensors and they are both new as I just replaced the water pump and while I was in there I just put in two new sensors. But I can not figure out what sensor is #1 and what is #2. I want to assume sensor #1 is at the water pump but want to confirm before digging into it deeper. BTW this code existed before I replaced the water pump.
Could this cause no heat inside the car? I have checked all the heater components and no luck?
Help!! Where is the ECT located in 2012 Jetta GLI? Thanks.
2007 Jetta code p2181 and its not overheating, however I noticed that only one fan works with the AC turned on. Replace the ect first, then the fan? Be the smaller fan.
Dude, thank you, lucid and nooooooo waffleing!
Mine is hopping all over the place intermittent 2.0 TDI 2008 PD non DPF every few seconds, is it an easy replace, already threw a code.
Where is the sensor located on a 2013 Volkswagen Teague one?
Hey charles i have Golf MK3 1.4 what is the right temperature sensor?
Hi i have a 2006 jetta with the BRM engin and i had an OBD error P0183 Fuel temperature sensor A circuit High , it referes to a Fuel temperature sensor that looks exactly the same a s the coolant temp sensor you mentioned inteh video , i wanted to know if i replace the fuel temp sensor will eventually a little fuel leakwhile installing the new one ,so how do i remove the air buble in teh fuel circuit once the sensor replaced
thanks for all the great videos
Karim
Can it be the reason for my car taking long to start when parked for long or over night?
Thank you very much!!! Going to replace it tomorrow!
Hi, I know this is an old video but I need some please. So I replaced the radiator and fans on my 09 Rabbit. My fans do not work and overheats at idle when sitting in traffic for about 10-15mins. I checked relays and fuses. They look fine. Is there something I am missing? Could it possibly be the part you are talking about in this video?
On my mk4 TDI golf. I have the 4 pin. The two pins that went to the cluster worked fine, guage was perfect. Two pins went to the ecm and it cause a no start in the winter due to the glow plugs not working. Took for ever to figure out. Forums said to unplug it as see if the glow plugs lights stayed on for 30 seconds and it did. That means bad sensor. Replaced it with a green one and it was perfect.
Hi Charles, where is the repair shop located??
Thanks a lot, professional and informative.
i've got a mk4 GTi 1.8t. Broke down today, cut out when I was slowing down after losing power, won't start, and when it does it idles for 30 seconds and cuts out again. Had the P1296 code (Coolant System Malfunction). Replaced the CTS a couple months ago but it was a cheap one for £5. Is it likely to be the CTS or thermostat?
have a 2015 golf 1.8l hatchback. check engine light on and scan says coolant bypass valve. only 137k on vehicle. Mechanic says replace the part -4hrs labor and part is nearly 400. !!!My thinking is its the connector or sensor not the part. Dealer tells me sensor in coolant overflow could trigger check engine . Mechanic looked up and felt connnector and said it felt gummy. Is that the sensor or connector and how long should it take to replace it?
My mark 4 (1999) Golf indicates a coolant temp at around 60 degrees while cruising in cold weather (about 10 degrees ambient or lower). Noticed this after I replaced the radiator after a minor crash. The new radiator has a higher fin density. Could it be that the new radiator is too efficient?
Joachim Hillestad only if your thermostat is stuck open or partially open.
My bjb 1.9 has 2 sensors, one on bottom of rad and the other on side of block above gear box!?
I have a 2001 2 L beetle that has non working instrument cluster. Speedometer tach and fuel do not work. Register at zero. The odometer does work. Are you suggesting that the temp control sensor could be the cause? Thanks. Rob
I have an aeh engine. Does it have two coolant temperature sensors?
My wife has a Mk4 (Type 1J) MY2000 and it is the 1.6 Comfortline. We are having problems with the car making a backfiring noise (noise is local to the engine bay...'buck' noise).
I have just replaced the coilpack as I've seen sparks jump from it to an adjacent spark lead. Spark leads and spark plugs are replaced after a dead No. 3 cylinder lead was discovered.
With the coilpack now replaced i.e. changed out VW# 032 905 106B with 032 905 106F (newer revision) and still have slight RPM instability at idle and when accelerating I still feel a type of drag as if the car isn't making the demanded power at that instant.
Having scanned the vehicle, all errors i get are the following (Note: this is a replacement lambda sensor after old was replaced):
4 Faults Found:
00525 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor (G39)
05-10 - Input Open - Intermittent
00525 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor (G39)
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
00537 - Lambda (Oxygen Sensor) Regulation
19-00 - Lower Limit
00525 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor (G39)
27-00 - Implausible Signal
Furthermore, the engine consumes oil, but not a whiff of smoke out the exhaust or drips. Just some on the perimeter of the intake manifold and not much trace of leaks.
Any suggestions as I'm going mad after spending ZAR 3800 ($321 equivalent) on the coilpack.
Looking forward to replies
Hey Charles,
Thanks for such a great informative video, I have a question if you have a couple of minutes to answer it pplease as that was not answered in the video, I've got a 2.5tdi 2009 T5 transporter, it has 2 coolant sensors, one 2pin on the rad and a 4 pin on the block. the fault i have is both rad fans come on full spin as soon as i put the ignition on and switch off only when i switch the ignition off. Which sensor could it be at fault? thanks karl
+karlsillett oh man good question. Not totally sure which on triggers the fans. I'd guess the 4 pin one. But that's just a guess
Hey Charles, I know this is an old vid--still, thanks for this one. Had a question--I have this 16v running on Digifant 2 and its idle is bouncing only on cold start. It is stable when warmed up. Am I correct in suspecting that the blue coolant temp sensor is at fault? If so, do I wait for the car to be in operating temp before I unplug the blue CTS and rev to 3k 3 times to reset the ECU/CTS?
It's worth a shot. That doesn't require spending any money. I like that.
thanks charles. tried it and no luck, still acts the same way. i'll just run without the ISV for now.
Hi, my passat 1998 water temperature is not rising to 190 f just stand between 4-5th lines at the Gauge
my friend please can you tell me the wiring harness of my four wire sensor i have a audi a2 and the conector was broke so i cant find the proper connections
my radiator fan is not stoping after switch off the engine and take away the key (even after 20 minutes). is possible to be the ect malfuntion?
Mine actually failed and reported a higher temp reading than normal, scared the crap out of me.
My 2004 Golf 2.0 GLS coolant temp sensor has 3 wires. Has he not heard of this?
Not for the coolant temp sensor. That’s odd
@@HumbleMechanic My Golf will not turn faster than 3100 rpm. I'm getting po343, 351,352,353 and 354. I change the cam sensor and nothing has helped.
Can there be no code and be bad? Sometimes the 1.9L beetle 03 will not start, acts like a fuel pump problem with around 140,000 miles. Please help, thanks
MY VW Amarok has had a cooling system issue recently where it seemed the water temp was colder than it should be. While driving the car, the temp would be around 84 deg, but drop down to 50deg C. Then sometimes go up to 93-96, but quickly back down. I have had the thermostat changed, and while running the first time, the temp steadily went up to 94deg C and was up and down around that temp, but when idling my car for a while, the temp gauge drops down to 45deg C, and while idling, it stays around this low temp. Is that normal for the temp to be that low at idle?
2011 Golf 2.5
Charles, I'm so glad I found your videos! Thanks! Now my question:
Is this sensor also where it gets the reading for oil temp in the MFA readout? My dash gauge goes to 190 fairly quick and pretty much stays, but the oil temp reading is all over the place, and sometimes will drop 20 Deg. F just turning the car off and then on. It has a no-start issue sometimes when I drive a while, then turn it off for a few minutes. Usually, the oil temp reading goes from something like 175 to 190 or so, to '---' (less than 122F/50C) and won't start. I think it might be dumping gas in and flooding, since it thinks the engine is cold. I think this car has a two terminal sensor, so only one thermistor.
Cooling fan runs constant whether cars running or not. VW 2012 Tiguan S 2.0 with 97,000 miles. Besides the cooling temp sensor what else could be causing this problem. No error codes or even engine light on. For now I disconnect the battery when I stop. Please help.
On an A4 b8 2.0t tfsi is the engine coolant temp sensor on the water pump unit or at the back of the engine? My temperature gauge goes from to center to one notch above and back down and back up. I can tell it's the sensor but people say its in various places. Please help.
Nice video. I am getting the p1296 code error for VW Golf A4. I checked the sensor and it is fine. Do you know about the voltage that must provide the circuit for this sensor? As far as I know It must provide 5v for both thermistors. Not sure if the circuit is the problem or the thermostat. Regards
I have 2011 Passat tdi I am just wondering if the coolant sensor will make my heaters blow hot and cold air. What I mean is the heaters am going warm on stand still but when I rev the car up the heat starts to come out hot..any suggestions out there please..
Hi I have questions I have Mk4 Jetta 2001 tdi and i start having problems starting car when temperature is near cold car will have long cracks befor start but when is cold below 32 start with no problem also I noticed unplugging coolant sensor start with no problem. One more thing when is near cold glow light inside don't stay for long comparing to when under 32. Can you please help Thanks
I have 2013 Passat 2.5l changed the over flow bottle and flushed the coolant. Now light comes on says add coolant but bottle level is fine and temp stays at 190 degrees. Any help appreciated.
I could use some help i’m swapping in an ALH into an 87 cabriolet I’m trying to use the factory coolant sensor that’s a four pin with the wiring from the cabriolet which is a 2 pin but not sure if it will work
Last week my Golf V GTI ECT gauge was showing appx. 170F after 10 minutes drive, I thought that’s weird so I shut the key off while I was driving and turn back to on as soon as I shut it off, after that the temperature showed zero, I repeated the process one more time and gauge is in the middle where it should be. And I did it a couple times more and it would just randomly fell in those three readings constantly. Zero, 170 and normal. And it kept doing that almost every day last week. But this whole week the gauge was reading normal, not even a single time did it read weird. I replaced the thermostat about two months ago before that happened, and I replaced the instrument cluster about three weeks ago. What could be the problem?
Change my coolant sender but still wrong turn over when engine hot seems like battery low or could it be the starter Moter
I'm having an issue on my 2007 GLI with both cooling fans not turning on, Ive checked the fans and all fuses inside and under the hood including the relays, all are good. does the CTS control the cooling fans on/off? not sure what to check next.
hey Humble mechanic I have a 2013 Jetta 2.0L. I have a ECT code P0118 (G62) sensor. On top of that its keeping both my AC and rad fan on at all times full speed.
Hi brother
I keep getting randomly fan kicks of and rpm goes off from 850 to 1100 even in cold could it be coolant temp sensor the temperature shows okay
I installed the sensor but coolant shot out of it !!!!! Would you
Know why?
I have replaced ton's on those sensors the cars that are not fun to replace is the v6 or 4 cylinder Passat or Audi the ALH TDI are some time stuck in the Aluminum housings (manual gear box only) the easiest are the 2 litre 8 valve engine the sensor is upright and you loose almost no coolant have you notice when a car that has the original temp.sensor on the black ones there is always a yellow paint dot on it .
A no start you say? I've been trying to figure this out for a year; battery, starter and everything else I could swap quickly and test. 1.8t mk4 gti '04 usually takes between one or two cranks or a straight clunk then a crank then a start. Always starts no codes and temp sensor never drops out. Does it on cold and warm starts all alike. Opinion?
Any thoughts on tail lights and front side lights not working. changed bulbs and fuses. it started with right side only
HumbleMichanic , Can the coolant sensor make the fan not shut off ,? i have a 2015 Jetta , your answer would be appreciated.
Fun Size - Did you ever find a solution? My cooling fan is not coming on and a/c blowing hot air.
My fans don’t turn on when temp rises but as soon as I turn off. The fans go on. Can the sensor cause that ?
I've got a weird one on cold starts as soon as key is on temp gauge shoots up to 190. I've got a cts on the way. Also I noticed a little coolant in the center of electrical connection I'm assuming the sensor is the issue just never seen one cause the gauge to do this. What's your thoughts?
@humblemechanic
Hello brother, i have an issue in my car for a month and i still not able to fix it
When the engine oil goes over 80 degrees celsius, the engine start misfiring, and on idle the engine dies, changed the sparks, injectors, fuel pump
Any ideas??
Thanks a lot