Watching Ai Mori climb is just pure joy. She gained so many more supporters after Paris. Her never say die attitude despite disappointments is inspiring. She really climbs for the joy of it. Not for the medals. She just dances up that wall. So beautiful to watch. ❤
This video adds a lot of perspective into why both women perform as they do in different types of competitions. In the Combined, Janja will always have the advantage over Ai, simply because her dynamic and momentum-based approach translates perfectly into Bouldering (something that she stated she never originally intended for, but found to be very much at home at) while Ai will always have boulder problems that she struggles with due to not quite being at home with the explosiveness sometimes required. But in the individual Lead competitions I truly believe that anything could happen on any given day. Janja is also more rested, when it's not Combined, and she's proven that there's almost nothing she can't do when she's fully rested and prepared on the day to top the Lead route...but Ai is so utterly and completely at home in Lead in such an inventive and zen way that we've never seen before, not even with Janja, so she could (and has) beat her at it. Either way...great video and terrific example of two distinct ways of climbing in Lead.
I agree! Ai is a natural on the wall, every move she makes looks so intuitive. But she does lack that explosiveness which Janja has, I think partly she has a height disadvantage to be honest😅 If she would be just a little taller I’m sure she would manage to do so much more than she does now!🥰
@@ClimbingMood I'd be a little more specific in that her arm length is the key issue. Brooke Rabutou is only slightly higher than Ai, but I think she also has noticeably longer arms and as such can actually go toe to toe with Janja in Boulder on a really good day and also got silver at the Olympics because of it. But yeah, Ai's arms are just that bit shorter that she can't reach distant holds normally, which is however also why she improvises so brilliantly in Lead in ways bigger climbers than her never could (because they'd lose too much energy trying to emulate her by shrinking into themselves). The only way I can think of that she would overcome that arm length disadvantage is to train her legs for that explosiveness and jump from one hold to another, like Janja did on one Boulder problem back in Tokyo, where she literally crouched and dyno'd to the top. If Ai Mori learned to do that consistently and used it very judiciously and sparingly, to still conserve her energy, but risk it where there was truly no other way...I have no doubt she'd surpass Janja, because while she doesn't have the explosiveness right now her sense of balance is just unrivaled! On the one hand I'm hoping she never becomes that incredible, because I am Slovenian lol, but on the other I would be so excited and proud of her if one day she surprised everyone by going steady, like we're all used to see her, and then right before the end she starts launching herself to victory!
@@loonie5468 I agree! Ai would need to work on those legs😅 It would be amazing to see her able to do big jumps which is what is holding her back now, but to be honest I’m just happy to see her doing what she loves. No pressure Ai!😎
No, the only thing Ai is missing is a few centimetres. There is always at least one boulder that is simply impossible for Ai to climb. She is undoubtedly the better climber, Janja is just the stronger one. Not only at the Olympics was Ai clearly better than Janja in the lead where size is not so important.
It is interesting to see the side by side. It shows among other things, the difference in pacing and style. Janja is dynamic and decisive in her moves early on in the route where she is always ahead of Ai. In the upper section Janja takes a lot more rest that Ai. Ai sometimes accelerates her pace in the upper section of some routes. Ai also seems to be using the 3 finger drag instead of half crimp whenever she can. I think that is something that helps her a lot to conserve energy and avoid getting pumped. I love to see those two challenging each other on the lead route. Edit: Ai is also more calculated in her moves, when it often feels like Janja trusts her power can get her efficiently enough through any mouv that she might have slightly missread although that rarely happens.
Those are great observations, especially about the way Ai holds the crimps and that it may be one of the reasons for her amazing endurance. Ai conserves her energy as much as possible and uses her strength only when it is completely needed, like when she needs to jump. Janja uses her strength when she could have found some easier more technical way to get her through difficult moves, and that is also the reason she had to rest at the upper section of the route.
Although her result at the Paris Olympics was disappointing, I feel that the shocking bouldering incident has helped increase the number of fans supporting Ai Mori. In particular, the frustration of being at a disadvantage due to height is something that is common among Asians, so I think many Asians can sympathize with her.
After she didn’t manage to do the first boulder which everybody else did, I didnt want to keep watching the Olympics anymore x) I really think she is capable of doing the first two boulders, she could have done them with a bit more time on the clock😩
@@asean1015 Ai is only an inch shorter than Brook Rabotou. You’re exaggerating her height disadvantage. She’s just not as physically strong in contrast to the other climbers, which brings an advantage in weight on lead, but an obvious disadvantage on bouldering.
@@iandrake1942 Ai Mori is 154cm tall, and Brook Rabotou is 157cm tall. Either way, they should have created a course that would not raise suspicions of racism later on. At the same time, a large number of discriminatory videos against Japanese people have been circulating in French-speaking countries recently. It's well-known that when you go to a restaurant, they will only let Japanese people sit near the toilet, they will never let you sit by the window, and they won't explain the dishes to Japanese people, and I'm convinced that these rumors are true.
@@KimchiSaku-jo7fp Yes, a 3cm heigh difference is 1inch (roughly), which is what I said. Also the idea that the courses are 'discriminatory' against asians is pretty laughable. Miho, the other japanese climber in the olympmics, is 5ft 4. Taller than Brooke and Ericn Mcneice, and only slighly shorter than Janja. Chaehyun Seo, the korean climber, is also 5ft 4. Jessica Pilz, the austrian climber who was brozen medalist, is also only 5ft 5. The exception to these heights is Osh Mckenzie is 5 ft 8, but she did not medal. Also, I don't see how any of this other speculation about french people discriniating against japanese people in restaraunts is relevant at all, but it might be some consolation to you that French people are known to be very rude, even to other europeans. Particularly parisians. .
@@iandrake1942 Anyone familiar with climbing knows that MIHO is not currently a favorite to win. She hasn't won in Asia recently and is nearing retirement. On the other hand, Mori is the invincible absolute champion in Asia and Japan, and the world champion in the lead at the 2023 World Championships.
It was definitely more difficult for Ai in the bouldering part, I still believe that with more time in the clock she could have managed to do the first two boulders and I’m really sad that we did not get to see Ai’s full potential
I really like the rivalries in this sport. No trash talking, they just let their skills do the talking while the loser being happy for the winner but still for every competitions, they still show their competitiveness.
I like Janja but I'm always be happy when a climber like Mori wins. To be small is a big disadvantage in climbing. Just watch bouldering competition and you will see. Janja is not much better but I think more experienced. Mori done a great job.
They are both really good, but it doesn’t happen so often that someone other than Janja wins the gold medal, and Ai has won several times by now, it makes them close competitors and is always so exciting to watch who will win😁
Look at the difference in the way the two athletes treat their shoe wrappers. Maybe it can reflect the difference in behavior between the two when they are in nature or on a mountain.
That’s a really interesting observation, I did not think about this. It could be because Janja is mostly an indoor climber than outdoor, but it could also simply be she’s too focused on the route and just wants to start climbing🤔 Either way, thank you for pointing that out!🌞
Oh, thank you. I just found out that Garnbret is an indoor athlete. Because in Indonesia, every rock climber who started and was born from the outdoors, they are members of an environmental activist organization called Sispala and Mapala. SISPALA as Siswa Pecinta Lingkungan (Enviromentalist Student) that is for high school and MAPALA as Mahasiswa Pecinta Lingkungan (for college students). They are members of FPTI (Indonesian Rock Climbing Federation).@@ClimbingMood
@@negaranegara62That is so nice to hear!🥰 It is great to know that in Indonesia they are taking care of the nature, I wish climbers would be as devoted to the environment in the whole world
@@ClimbingMoodTbf in Slovenia they are as well. The climbing organization is part of the Alpine or Hillhiking organisation (which is a big or in Slovenia, though it's mostly volunteering) Mountain bikers also take care of the hills, make routes, clean them up etc
Janja is much better, she's more precise, more technically efficient and her flowy moves are just more pleasing to watch...until the later part of the climb where her weight and the effort of moving more mass than Ai shows. Ai's biggest advantage is her light weight, with much less mass to move she exerts less energy and thus having more reserve stamina when near the top. If the lead routes were extended 10 or 20 more moves, Ai would almost always win. When Janja was younger and leaner at around 16 or 17 years old, she crushed these lead routes with speed, precision, elegance and made them look easy.
Hard to be flowy and precise when you’re all stretched out to reach a hold. Definitely easier when you have reach because you don’t need to adjust that much. Ai is light but not the lightest nor shortest among lead climbers like Laura Rogora but she never comes close to Ai. Lead route requires endurance, time management and problem solving.
@@ronelgem23Ai needs to find different ways to reach a hold sometimes due to her height, and it is incredible the endurance which she has and to see her top either way no matter the difficulties which she faces🥰
@@fly3513Omg that is the coolest move😎I understand you! I am also short and is sometimes annoying to see my tall friend top a route without any problems when for me it was such a fight😅
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Subbed, can’t wait for next video!
Watching Ai Mori climb is just pure joy. She gained so many more supporters after Paris. Her never say die attitude despite disappointments is inspiring. She really climbs for the joy of it. Not for the medals. She just dances up that wall. So beautiful to watch. ❤
森選手が、途中、クイックドローを蹴って揺らして、遠い方の手が届くようにするのが機転が利いて素晴らしい。
This video adds a lot of perspective into why both women perform as they do in different types of competitions. In the Combined, Janja will always have the advantage over Ai, simply because her dynamic and momentum-based approach translates perfectly into Bouldering (something that she stated she never originally intended for, but found to be very much at home at) while Ai will always have boulder problems that she struggles with due to not quite being at home with the explosiveness sometimes required. But in the individual Lead competitions I truly believe that anything could happen on any given day. Janja is also more rested, when it's not Combined, and she's proven that there's almost nothing she can't do when she's fully rested and prepared on the day to top the Lead route...but Ai is so utterly and completely at home in Lead in such an inventive and zen way that we've never seen before, not even with Janja, so she could (and has) beat her at it. Either way...great video and terrific example of two distinct ways of climbing in Lead.
I agree! Ai is a natural on the wall, every move she makes looks so intuitive. But she does lack that explosiveness which Janja has, I think partly she has a height disadvantage to be honest😅 If she would be just a little taller I’m sure she would manage to do so much more than she does now!🥰
@@ClimbingMood I'd be a little more specific in that her arm length is the key issue. Brooke Rabutou is only slightly higher than Ai, but I think she also has noticeably longer arms and as such can actually go toe to toe with Janja in Boulder on a really good day and also got silver at the Olympics because of it. But yeah, Ai's arms are just that bit shorter that she can't reach distant holds normally, which is however also why she improvises so brilliantly in Lead in ways bigger climbers than her never could (because they'd lose too much energy trying to emulate her by shrinking into themselves).
The only way I can think of that she would overcome that arm length disadvantage is to train her legs for that explosiveness and jump from one hold to another, like Janja did on one Boulder problem back in Tokyo, where she literally crouched and dyno'd to the top. If Ai Mori learned to do that consistently and used it very judiciously and sparingly, to still conserve her energy, but risk it where there was truly no other way...I have no doubt she'd surpass Janja, because while she doesn't have the explosiveness right now her sense of balance is just unrivaled! On the one hand I'm hoping she never becomes that incredible, because I am Slovenian lol, but on the other I would be so excited and proud of her if one day she surprised everyone by going steady, like we're all used to see her, and then right before the end she starts launching herself to victory!
AI is so much lighter, would that give her more advantages on long route as she doesnot have to rest much ?
@@loonie5468 I agree! Ai would need to work on those legs😅 It would be amazing to see her able to do big jumps which is what is holding her back now, but to be honest I’m just happy to see her doing what she loves. No pressure Ai!😎
No, the only thing Ai is missing is a few centimetres. There is always at least one boulder that is simply impossible for Ai to climb. She is undoubtedly the better climber, Janja is just the stronger one. Not only at the Olympics was Ai clearly better than Janja in the lead where size is not so important.
Thanks for this edit. I love both climbers and it’s so nice to see different strength and style of climbing side by side ❤
That’s nice to hear! I will make more❤️
Ai Moriの登りを見ていると、感動する。
Truly, she inspires me everyday❤️
比較動画を見させていただくとやはり身長が低いという事はそれだけでマイナスではないかと思ってしまいます。
身長が高いと体重が増えますがそれでも手と足で上手く身体を支えることもできます。
とても素晴らしい動画ありがとうございます。
It is for sure a disadvantage😅which makes Ai even more incredible, and it motivates me to know that if she can do it then we all can😎
この選手をオリンピックで初めて知った。
とにかく凄いしか言えん。
最後のはにかむ笑顔がまたええねぇ。
Mori uses flexibility a lot
It is interesting to see the side by side. It shows among other things, the difference in pacing and style.
Janja is dynamic and decisive in her moves early on in the route where she is always ahead of Ai. In the upper section Janja takes a lot more rest that Ai. Ai sometimes accelerates her pace in the upper section of some routes.
Ai also seems to be using the 3 finger drag instead of half crimp whenever she can. I think that is something that helps her a lot to conserve energy and avoid getting pumped.
I love to see those two challenging each other on the lead route.
Edit: Ai is also more calculated in her moves, when it often feels like Janja trusts her power can get her efficiently enough through any mouv that she might have slightly missread although that rarely happens.
Those are great observations, especially about the way Ai holds the crimps and that it may be one of the reasons for her amazing endurance. Ai conserves her energy as much as possible and uses her strength only when it is completely needed, like when she needs to jump. Janja uses her strength when she could have found some easier more technical way to get her through difficult moves, and that is also the reason she had to rest at the upper section of the route.
Although her result at the Paris Olympics was disappointing, I feel that the shocking bouldering incident has helped increase the number of fans supporting Ai Mori.
In particular, the frustration of being at a disadvantage due to height is something that is common among Asians, so I think many Asians can sympathize with her.
After she didn’t manage to do the first boulder which everybody else did, I didnt want to keep watching the Olympics anymore x) I really think she is capable of doing the first two boulders, she could have done them with a bit more time on the clock😩
@@asean1015 Ai is only an inch shorter than Brook Rabotou. You’re exaggerating her height disadvantage. She’s just not as physically strong in contrast to the other climbers, which brings an advantage in weight on lead, but an obvious disadvantage on bouldering.
@@iandrake1942 Ai Mori is 154cm tall, and Brook Rabotou is 157cm tall. Either way, they should have created a course that would not raise suspicions of racism later on.
At the same time, a large number of discriminatory videos against Japanese people have been circulating in French-speaking countries recently.
It's well-known that when you go to a restaurant, they will only let Japanese people sit near the toilet, they will never let you sit by the window, and they won't explain the dishes to Japanese people, and I'm convinced that these rumors are true.
@@KimchiSaku-jo7fp Yes, a 3cm heigh difference is 1inch (roughly), which is what I said.
Also the idea that the courses are 'discriminatory' against asians is pretty laughable. Miho, the other japanese climber in the olympmics, is 5ft 4. Taller than Brooke and Ericn Mcneice, and only slighly shorter than Janja. Chaehyun Seo, the korean climber, is also 5ft 4. Jessica Pilz, the austrian climber who was brozen medalist, is also only 5ft 5. The exception to these heights is Osh Mckenzie is 5 ft 8, but she did not medal.
Also, I don't see how any of this other speculation about french people discriniating against japanese people in restaraunts is relevant at all, but it might be some consolation to you that French people are known to be very rude, even to other europeans. Particularly parisians. .
@@iandrake1942 Anyone familiar with climbing knows that MIHO is not currently a favorite to win. She hasn't won in Asia recently and is nearing retirement. On the other hand, Mori is the invincible absolute champion in Asia and Japan, and the world champion in the lead at the 2023 World Championships.
Thanks for making such a great video!
I’m happy that you liked it!🥰
This editing is so nice. It’s easy to compare two climbers.
Thank you, I’m glad you liked it!❤️
@@ClimbingMood WE NEED MORE. thanks a lot ^^
@@Hieu_Climbs I’m currently working on another climbing comparison, between Ai and Akiyo, It should be posted by tomorrow🥰
Love Ai Mori!!!! and I do think that they did it purposely at the Olympics so that some else can have an easy gold.
It was definitely more difficult for Ai in the bouldering part, I still believe that with more time in the clock she could have managed to do the first two boulders and I’m really sad that we did not get to see Ai’s full potential
I really like the rivalries in this sport. No trash talking, they just let their skills do the talking while the loser being happy for the winner but still for every competitions, they still show their competitiveness.
Ai Mori はクライミングの申し子です。
森さんって凄いな。
クライミングの技術も高いのだろうが、重心移動を操る技術が唯一無二の強みなんだろうな。
重心移動の達人みたいだから、武道をやったらすぐにその武道の達人に成れそうだ。
筋肉隆々の美人チャンピオンと中学生のようなあいちゃんとの一騎打ち。まるでマンガ。
Climbing manga, I like it😎
森選手強い。まさしく小さな巨人って感じする
素晴らしい👍
Janja has the flow ❤
Definitely🥰
I like Janja but I'm always be happy when a climber like Mori wins. To be small is a big disadvantage in climbing.
Just watch bouldering competition and you will see.
Janja is not much better but I think more experienced.
Mori done a great job.
They are both really good, but it doesn’t happen so often that someone other than Janja wins the gold medal, and Ai has won several times by now, it makes them close competitors and is always so exciting to watch who will win😁
パリオリンピックの解説をお願いします。
カッコカワイイ❤
It was fun making the video, I hope you enjoyed it^^❤️
自分の成功より相手の成功を尊重する素敵な女性、
Ai Mori demeanour doesn't make us believe she can pull off the win in a such an event, I am surprised With her will to even play this sports.
森選手は、手の摩擦だけで体重を支えられる利点があります。
一方で、彼女ほどの技術がありながらボルダーで０点という危うさもあります。
異質な選手である事には面白いと思います。
06:17
That was the coolest moment😎
Yang lebih cepat mencapai top siapa.. Ada waktu nya..???
Ai was faster, Janja had only like 4 seconds left on the clock
@@ClimbingMood oke.. Thanks.. 👍🙏
Look at the difference in the way the two athletes treat their shoe wrappers. Maybe it can reflect the difference in behavior between the two when they are in nature or on a mountain.
That’s a really interesting observation, I did not think about this. It could be because Janja is mostly an indoor climber than outdoor, but it could also simply be she’s too focused on the route and just wants to start climbing🤔 Either way, thank you for pointing that out!🌞
Oh, thank you. I just found out that Garnbret is an indoor athlete. Because in Indonesia, every rock climber who started and was born from the outdoors, they are members of an environmental activist organization called Sispala and Mapala. SISPALA as Siswa Pecinta Lingkungan (Enviromentalist Student) that is for high school and MAPALA as Mahasiswa Pecinta Lingkungan (for college students). They are members of FPTI (Indonesian Rock Climbing Federation).@@ClimbingMood
@@negaranegara62That is so nice to hear!🥰 It is great to know that in Indonesia they are taking care of the nature, I wish climbers would be as devoted to the environment in the whole world
@@ClimbingMoodTbf in Slovenia they are as well. The climbing organization is part of the Alpine or Hillhiking organisation (which is a big or in Slovenia, though it's mostly volunteering)
Mountain bikers also take care of the hills, make routes, clean them up etc
@@negaranegara62 That is not true. Janja can send better than any women outdoors, and 99.9% of men. Not just an indoor climber
Janja is much better, she's more precise, more technically efficient and her flowy moves are just more pleasing to watch...until the later part of the climb where her weight and the effort of moving more mass than Ai shows. Ai's biggest advantage is her light weight, with much less mass to move she exerts less energy and thus having more reserve stamina when near the top. If the lead routes were extended 10 or 20 more moves, Ai would almost always win. When Janja was younger and leaner at around 16 or 17 years old, she crushed these lead routes with speed, precision, elegance and made them look easy.
Janja and Ai are really amazing🥰They both are, in their own ways, getting to the top, and is so cool to see the differences between their climbs😄
Hard to be flowy and precise when you’re all stretched out to reach a hold. Definitely easier when you have reach because you don’t need to adjust that much. Ai is light but not the lightest nor shortest among lead climbers like Laura Rogora but she never comes close to Ai. Lead route requires endurance, time management and problem solving.
Obviously you don’t know what it’s like to be very short:) hitting that express and clipping is just so cool btw, both are just so good ❤
@@ronelgem23Ai needs to find different ways to reach a hold sometimes due to her height, and it is incredible the endurance which she has and to see her top either way no matter the difficulties which she faces🥰
@@fly3513Omg that is the coolest move😎I understand you! I am also short and is sometimes annoying to see my tall friend top a route without any problems when for me it was such a fight😅
우리나라에는 서채현이라는 대단한 선수가 있답니다