Thanks John. The thread is only ok at best.The one thread will never carry any load due to being wider than the rest, and the root is shallow enough I'm not sure if it will actually work. I'd have been much better off using a relief groove. The Chinese certainly did put a neat grind on the jaw faces. Thanks for watching.
@@TheMetalButcher The relief groove also relieves the pucker factor when getting so close. Single Point Threading is one of those operations where you can’t have anything else on your mind. No distractions. So many times we are thinking about the next step instead of the step we are performing. 😂👍
Yeah, that's how the commercial one was. I tend to prefer a no relief groove thread, looks better. My first piece I used HSS and I was able to get closer to the shoulder, but with such as sudden stop it was just asking to break things.
This is great to watch! that lathe is a beast! How were you so precise on the end of all of those threads where you pull the tool out of the cuts? In the video it almost looked like it was automated?
Practice and watching the dial indicator. I wasn't fast enough though, I caugt a chip on one pass effectively crashing it, which turned my toolpost. After I straightened it, I had to picl back up the threads.
I know I’m 2 yrs late, but. Why would you need that many starts on such a short thread? Help me here. Or was it just a demonstration? Thanks for your time. 👍
If you open a screwed pen you will find that pen and the cap are having multi start thread. And that is a small diameter, say three eighth of an inch. So, some one has to make a metal die for the plastic injection of the mould.
Not the way to do that at all. Turn your compound 90 degrees (straight along the X axis). Starting at 0 (zero the compound dial) cut the first lead. Then advance the compound 1/4 (if you're cutting 4 leads) of the total travel of thread. Then cut the 2nd lead and so on. Using a thread insert like you're using isn't the way to go either. You need to hand grind a tool to get the proper relief angles for the angle of the lead you're cutting, other wise you'll drag the bottom of the tool through the cut and burr it all up.
That's another way, but it doesn't mean it's the right way. Both have their merits. This is more hazard frought for sure. I ground the carbide by hand. No different than HSS ground by hand. Thanks for the comment.
Definitely a good way to do it if your machine doesn’t have a compound. We use only inserted threading tools like you have in the video and also ones that accept kennametal top notch inserts and use both full and partial profile inserts depending on the job. Definitely the way to go vs high speed steel and sweat on carbide imo. Thanks for sharing this method!
Just to have a more appropriate holding. The 4 jaw doesn't even close down to 3/4" I don't believe and the 6 jaw grips better without damage at that size. There isn't really any rigidity penalty on such a large lathe. Thanks for watching.
@@Anon_Omis So I made a stub arbor with a 1.5-8 thread on it the exact demensions of the 10" Rockwell lathe we have. I just grip on the shank of that and screw the chuck on like normal. The advantages of having a 3 jaw in a 4 jaw is that it becomes a set-tru chuck, you dial in the first part and it should stay that way. This one already is so no need, but it's handy for crappier chucks.
Nicely done! Thread looks very clean! Love the pattern on the jaw faces of that awesome chuck!
Thanks John. The thread is only ok at best.The one thread will never carry any load due to being wider than the rest, and the root is shallow enough I'm not sure if it will actually work. I'd have been much better off using a relief groove. The Chinese certainly did put a neat grind on the jaw faces. Thanks for watching.
@@TheMetalButcher The relief groove also relieves the pucker factor when getting so close. Single Point Threading is one of those operations where you can’t have anything else on your mind. No distractions. So many times we are thinking about the next step instead of the step we are performing. 😂👍
Yeah, that's how the commercial one was. I tend to prefer a no relief groove thread, looks better. My first piece I used HSS and I was able to get closer to the shoulder, but with such as sudden stop it was just asking to break things.
Good job
This is great to watch! that lathe is a beast! How were you so precise on the end of all of those threads where you pull the tool out of the cuts? In the video it almost looked like it was automated?
Practice and watching the dial indicator. I wasn't fast enough though, I caugt a chip on one pass effectively crashing it, which turned my toolpost. After I straightened it, I had to picl back up the threads.
I love that Sidney Noah. Sweet !
Nice to see it doing something eh? Real toolroom work too!
First view! it looks like a tough operation, but good work
Thanks Tillie!
I know I’m 2 yrs late, but. Why would you need that many starts on such a short thread? Help me here.
Or was it just a demonstration? Thanks for your time. 👍
It was for some sort of hole saw arbor for someone online. Just an attempt. It didn't end up working.
If you open a screwed pen you will find that pen and the cap are having multi start thread. And that is a small diameter, say three eighth of an inch. So, some one has to make a metal die for the plastic injection of the mould.
How were you able to move the cutter so quickly from hitting?
Practice. And I did crash once. A dial indicator helps with timing. Don't do this though, use a thread relief groove.
Can't you just drop the banjo down to re-index the main drive gear ? No need to take the gear off.
Doh! That would work. I'm not sure it's any faster though.
Not the way to do that at all. Turn your compound 90 degrees (straight along the X axis). Starting at 0 (zero the compound dial) cut the first lead. Then advance the compound 1/4 (if you're cutting 4 leads) of the total travel of thread. Then cut the 2nd lead and so on. Using a thread insert like you're using isn't the way to go either. You need to hand grind a tool to get the proper relief angles for the angle of the lead you're cutting, other wise you'll drag the bottom of the tool through the cut and burr it all up.
That's another way, but it doesn't mean it's the right way. Both have their merits. This is more hazard frought for sure. I ground the carbide by hand. No different than HSS ground by hand. Thanks for the comment.
Definitely a good way to do it if your machine doesn’t have a compound. We use only inserted threading tools like you have in the video and also ones that accept kennametal top notch inserts and use both full and partial profile inserts depending on the job. Definitely the way to go vs high speed steel and sweat on carbide imo. Thanks for sharing this method!
Video taped in an airplane
Mile high club for machining.
I apologize if I skipped over it, but why do you have a second, smaller chuck on the part at 9:00 ?
Just to have a more appropriate holding. The 4 jaw doesn't even close down to 3/4" I don't believe and the 6 jaw grips better without damage at that size. There isn't really any rigidity penalty on such a large lathe. Thanks for watching.
@@TheMetalButcher So how are you holding onto the 6 jaw?
@@Anon_Omis So I made a stub arbor with a 1.5-8 thread on it the exact demensions of the 10" Rockwell lathe we have. I just grip on the shank of that and screw the chuck on like normal. The advantages of having a 3 jaw in a 4 jaw is that it becomes a set-tru chuck, you dial in the first part and it should stay that way. This one already is so no need, but it's handy for crappier chucks.