After 30 years using a Stihl 039 I got myself en new Stihl MS362CM 18" bar sept 2024, nice te see I have done the right thing viewing this vid and comments. Can't wait to use it :-) Thanks Peek's Peak!
The 362 isn't a bad saw at all, but you've got a lot of bar on that 60cc saw. Glad to see that you put your PPE on in the later part of the video too. I'm usually a "live and let live" kind of guy, and don't like to tell people what they should be doing, but by your own admission you're not a great cutter yet, so I was nervous when I saw you cutting without the PPE at the beginning. Oh, and your saw will break-in and the rings will seat within about 10 tanks of fuel, and it will be stronger then than it is right now, so you've got that to look forward to. Oh, and CONGRATS on your new saw!
Uh, no. He needs either MORE bar on that saw or less. He has to bend over to buck logs. He needs a 32" bar. If you are going to bend down/over anyways, may as well go with the shorter 20" bar. Chain cost is LESS the longer the chains as well. Get more teeth/$$$. If you are not going to regularly be cutting trees down, then 20" should be about right, but with a 20" bar it makes cutting trees down a RIGHT PITA! Now if your region only has tiny trees, well 20" is just fine.
I put a 20” light bar on my ms362 and it changed it completely. It struggled to handle the stock 25” bar but with the 20” it’s so fast and powerful it’s night and day.
It should either have a 20" or 32". ANY bar in between these 2 sizes is DUMB. Stihl puts the 25" bar on there as they know more than likely you will be BUYING another bar from them of the correct length. It is frankly disgusting putting a 25" bar on any saw. Stihl knows 100% NO ONE USES 25" bars. Yea yea, I got one as it came with my 460, but if I had the option of head only and buy correct bar length? Hell ya I would have. Yea yea, the dealers sell them head only, but when you add up all the costs anyways you essentially are getting a bar/chain for free even if you do not want it.
I have the same saw and love it. Aside from using good gas and oil, another great way to get the best out of your saw is sharpening your own blades. Its surprising how just even occasional use can dull your edges and how much life you can get from a blade by sharpening it yourself.
I have one, love it. I’m 74 so I needed a lighter saw, found that if you choke it, decompress and pull it through 5 times it starts on the first pull. Once warm it starts first compression every time. I run longer bars.
@@gunterbecker8528 I have the oiler turned up full and need to fill the oil up every time I fill gas. For freehand milling I run a 36” bar but you only use about one foot of it and I keep the saw clean and sharp. It comes with a 25” bar that is adequate for my logs, just pulled one in yesterday that is about 28 /30” at the but and 45’ long. For milling and firewood. It never gets hot, bar is warm to the touch. If you are thinking of doing some freehand milling I have found a full house chain, semi chisel, sharpened to 0 deg with no rackers works best for speed and smooth cut. I’m not a fan of skip tooth because they are too hard on the saw, need to rev it constantly and is jarring.
my MS362C-M came with a 18" bar. The tag in the store "Atwoods" said recommended 20", so I bought a 20" bar. I didn't see any longer bars there. Good to know that this can handle longer bar. i already own craftsman 16" saw that I can use for smaller stuff. This saw is too heavy for me to limb out anything 8" or smaller.
It is good to let the Stihl CM's idle for a long time to set the carb and timing when they are new. I got the manual set jets and regular choke on my 362 for this reason. What I am used to.
Be careful with that saw. I've had mine for a number of years. I had a wood biz for years. That was my number one saw. I needed to buy a new one bcuz my older saws were way to heavy. Three pounds means a lot when that saw is in your hands for hours.
Lucas, I have three chainsaws, one of them is a 362. I love that saw, but it is a little heavier than I want to haul through the woods. I use it a ton though and love the performance of the saw. My go to is the 271 Farm Boss because it is a little bit lighter and cuts just as well as the 362. One advantage of the 362 over the 271 is the decompression start. God Bless
We have 4 STIHL chain saws from the trim saw to the 362, then they are two pole saws, and three STIHL trimmers. Sad part, we use them all quite regularly. Ya got a great saw, as noted in the other comments, wear the PPE and try not to air start it between your legs.
Non ethanol if possible, and IMO if you’re going to run Stihl Oil, run the orange bottle. I know it is counterintuitive, but the Stihl Ultra is not considered the “healthy” for the saw. Good choice are bar length as well. If you need it you have it and otherwise you get yourself a bit more reach. Will be a great tool on the Homestead!
Lucas: YOU ARE SCARING ME WHEN YOU MOVE THAT SAW ALL OVER THE PLACE AND END UP CLOSE TO YOUR LEG. Keep in mind that you have a longer blade there now., thus more chain. I used to do what you are doing and have a nick in my kneecap to show for it. Nice to see you have all the rest of the gear now. What I found is to keep at least two wedges in your back pocket so that you can keep the log from closing on the saw. All the best and please take care.
I appreciate the concern. I’ve had the gear all along and almost always wear it when I’m actually cutting wood/trees. If I’m just doing a demo cut on a stationary log I didn’t gear up. Seems like the whole internet got fired up about it. 😂🤣. I get it though. It isn’t a toy. I do my best to work safely. Thanks for the comment as always. 👊
It's a nice saw, I've been running mine for 2 years now and it feels just right - enough power to cut bigger trees and extremely good for firewood cutting in the stand. My longest bar is 20" and I would not recommend any longer ones, but here in Finland the normal bar length is around 13" to 16" De-limbing is a bit harsh with it, but I've got a smaller 241 for smaller ones, and that little beast does the job really well. Still wondering if the 261 would've been the one and only all-round saw, but actually having 60cc and 40cc makes a real difference between the two saws. I've got some videos about the 362 in finnish forest if you're interested!
@PeeksPeakHobbyHomestead I have used mine once for splitting logs approximately 2m in length, and the saw endured the splitting use well. I didn’t use any table or guide, though; a strip of wood nailed to the side was sufficient when working with the bench material for the campfire spot.
No way. Thats hilarious you bought that saw. No wonder you told me to "stay tuned". It will get more powerful after a few tanks of gas, once the rings set. You'll love it.
Nice saw! I’ve only got ms250 subscribers, so I’ll be sticking with it.😂 I do have a 460 Rancher, which is actually pretty nice. It’s my first Husqvarna. I’ve always owned Stihls.
Nice saw. I’d also get a shorter bar too, say 20”, so if you know you’ll be cutting smaller stuff that day, there’ll be a slight weight saving and the saw will cut slightly quicker too. You know the saw is cutting as the bar disappears through the wood/stem/limb. So no need to lean you body sideways across the saw. For one thing, you’re essentially twisting your lower back while under load. Which is particularly bad for the back. But more importantly, if you get into the habit and one day you have a bad kickback, the saw will be coming for your left shoulder and upper arm. Better to have the saw slightly away from your right-hand side. That way if there’s a bad kickback, the saw will pass to the right of your right shoulder. I know the saw should activate the chain brake, if a kickback occurs. But what if it fails to do so that one time? Also, even if the sudden movement does activate the chain brake; if you’re leaning sideways over the saw, the bar will still be heading your way and it’ll be carrying a nice sharp chain. Even a stationary chain will give you a painful clonk and could in a severe kickback event, cut the skin.
Kickback is ONLY a problem on short bars. Same kickback force happens on a long bar, but when they are 2X as long, it is actually 1/4 the rotational speed. Why you will NEVER hear actual loggers talking about kickback. It NEVER significantly happens to them as they are all running around with longer bars for the most part. Arborists and homeowners with cheap 16" saws or more expensive ones arborists use with short bars DO have a kickback problem, but frankly this is all WAY WWAAAAAAYYYY overblown. That being said, yes, do not look down the bar of the saw, unless you have to for a precise cut. What is actually DANGEROUS with a chainsaw is cutting your own leg. CHAPS, CHAPS, CHAPS, CHAPS. Crap in your eyes, and noise protection. If you have your saw sharpened correctly, there is zero need to apply ANY pressure to the saw at all. If you have dull crap and too dumb and lazy to sharpen your saw, yea then you have to lean on it and get TIRED and SWEATY, and DANGEROUS. So, the problem is NOT how he is holding the saw, rather he is used to DULL garbage chain which has created the need to LEAN on the saw. Needs to LEARN how to sharpen his chain.
The 362 really comes into its own as it breaks in. The more you use it the stronger it runs until completely broken in. At least that is the way it was with my 362. Great saw! I am looking a getting a longer bar for mine for the occasional tree clean up. I have some very large trees that are almost dead that I will have to cut down and cut up. I wished I had a longer bar a few times on the last one I had to cut down. What size bar are you running on yours? BTW Stihl sells a felling dog kit for the outside of the bar. I added it to mine and I really like have the dogs on both sides of the bar.
You should learn to use your chain brake more often. Chainsaws are awesome but extremely dangerous and anything you can do to mitigate risk is worth taking into account especially with a novice wood cutter. Thanks for the cool vid i love my 362 as well.
You lost me at 3:11 when you started chopping stuff with no earmuffs. I can’t take any advice seriously from a dude that doesn’t respect his own well being.
After 30 years using a Stihl 039 I got myself en new Stihl MS362CM 18" bar sept 2024, nice te see I have done the right thing viewing this vid and comments. Can't wait to use it :-) Thanks Peek's Peak!
The 362 isn't a bad saw at all, but you've got a lot of bar on that 60cc saw. Glad to see that you put your PPE on in the later part of the video too. I'm usually a "live and let live" kind of guy, and don't like to tell people what they should be doing, but by your own admission you're not a great cutter yet, so I was nervous when I saw you cutting without the PPE at the beginning.
Oh, and your saw will break-in and the rings will seat within about 10 tanks of fuel, and it will be stronger then than it is right now, so you've got that to look forward to. Oh, and CONGRATS on your new saw!
Uh, no. He needs either MORE bar on that saw or less. He has to bend over to buck logs. He needs a 32" bar. If you are going to bend down/over anyways, may as well go with the shorter 20" bar. Chain cost is LESS the longer the chains as well. Get more teeth/$$$. If you are not going to regularly be cutting trees down, then 20" should be about right, but with a 20" bar it makes cutting trees down a RIGHT PITA! Now if your region only has tiny trees, well 20" is just fine.
I put a 20” light bar on my ms362 and it changed it completely. It struggled to handle the stock 25” bar but with the 20” it’s so fast and powerful it’s night and day.
It should either have a 20" or 32". ANY bar in between these 2 sizes is DUMB. Stihl puts the 25" bar on there as they know more than likely you will be BUYING another bar from them of the correct length. It is frankly disgusting putting a 25" bar on any saw. Stihl knows 100% NO ONE USES 25" bars. Yea yea, I got one as it came with my 460, but if I had the option of head only and buy correct bar length? Hell ya I would have. Yea yea, the dealers sell them head only, but when you add up all the costs anyways you essentially are getting a bar/chain for free even if you do not want it.
I have the same saw and love it. Aside from using good gas and oil, another great way to get the best out of your saw is sharpening your own blades. Its surprising how just even occasional use can dull your edges and how much life you can get from a blade by sharpening it yourself.
Thanks for the tips!
Blade or chain
I bought one and ran it very hard. It works so well. I got a 25” bar so I could cut the stumps level with the ground. ❤
Yes, I’m very happy with mine too!
I have one, love it. I’m 74 so I needed a lighter saw, found that if you choke it, decompress and pull it through 5 times it starts on the first pull. Once warm it starts first compression every time. I run longer bars.
Good info. Thanks for commenting!
When you say. ""I run longer bars" how is the oiler performing, does the bar get enough lubrication??? Please advise Gunter
@@gunterbecker8528 I have the oiler turned up full and need to fill the oil up every time I fill gas. For freehand milling I run a 36” bar but you only use about one foot of it and I keep the saw clean and sharp. It comes with a 25” bar that is adequate for my logs, just pulled one in yesterday that is about 28 /30” at the but and 45’ long. For milling and firewood. It never gets hot, bar is warm to the touch. If you are thinking of doing some freehand milling I have found a full house chain, semi chisel, sharpened to 0 deg with no rackers works best for speed and smooth cut. I’m not a fan of skip tooth because they are too hard on the saw, need to rev it constantly and is jarring.
@@D-B-Cooper,thanks for your extensive information, appreciated!
my MS362C-M came with a 18" bar. The tag in the store "Atwoods" said recommended 20", so I bought a 20" bar. I didn't see any longer bars there. Good to know that this can handle longer bar. i already own craftsman 16" saw that I can use for smaller stuff. This saw is too heavy for me to limb out anything 8" or smaller.
And it was very exciting to watch your very first cut you made in this video, you ran your chain right into the dirt !!!!!! :-} :-}
It is good to let the Stihl CM's idle for a long time to set the carb and timing when they are new. I got the manual set jets and regular choke on my 362 for this reason. What I am used to.
Be careful with that saw. I've had mine for a number of years. I had a wood biz for years. That was my number one saw. I needed to buy a new one bcuz my older saws were way to heavy. Three pounds means a lot when that saw is in your hands for hours.
Especially while bent over trying to cut a tree trunk for hours.
Lucas, I have three chainsaws, one of them is a 362. I love that saw, but it is a little heavier than I want to haul through the woods. I use it a ton though and love the performance of the saw. My go to is the 271 Farm Boss because it is a little bit lighter and cuts just as well as the 362. One advantage of the 362 over the 271 is the decompression start. God Bless
Nice. Stihl makes really good saws, and it should last you a lifetime. I picked up a sthil 400cm, and it's been great.
Nice choice!
We have 4 STIHL chain saws from the trim saw to the 362, then they are two pole saws, and three STIHL trimmers. Sad part, we use them all quite regularly. Ya got a great saw, as noted in the other comments, wear the PPE and try not to air start it between your legs.
Non ethanol if possible, and IMO if you’re going to run Stihl Oil, run the orange bottle. I know it is counterintuitive, but the Stihl Ultra is not considered the “healthy” for the saw. Good choice are bar length as well. If you need it you have it and otherwise you get yourself a bit more reach. Will be a great tool on the Homestead!
Thanks for the tips. I actually have a gas station nearby that sells non-eth and I didn’t even think of that. 👊
@@PeeksPeakHobbyHomestead definitely
Don't use any stihl oil if u can avoided 😊
Lucas, thats a great saw. Huge improvement over your other saws
Thanks!
Very good choice in an all purpose saw! Pretty sure it is the lightest 60cc pro saw. Nice to have the momentary kill switch!
That things is a beast. I think I know why you are measuring the logs in the last scene.
You caught the clue. 👊😊
Nice saw Lucas
Thanks, Butch! I am loving it! 👊
Cameron for the win!! 😂
😂🤣🤦♂️
Lucas: YOU ARE SCARING ME WHEN YOU MOVE THAT SAW ALL OVER THE PLACE AND END UP CLOSE TO YOUR LEG. Keep in mind that you have a longer blade there now., thus more chain. I used to do what you are doing and have a nick in my kneecap to show for it. Nice to see you have all the rest of the gear now. What I found is to keep at least two wedges in your back pocket so that you can keep the log from closing on the saw. All the best and please take care.
I appreciate the concern. I’ve had the gear all along and almost always wear it when I’m actually cutting wood/trees. If I’m just doing a demo cut on a stationary log I didn’t gear up. Seems like the whole internet got fired up about it. 😂🤣. I get it though. It isn’t a toy. I do my best to work safely. Thanks for the comment as always. 👊
It's a nice saw, I've been running mine for 2 years now and it feels just right - enough power to cut bigger trees and extremely good for firewood cutting in the stand. My longest bar is 20" and I would not recommend any longer ones, but here in Finland the normal bar length is around 13" to 16"
De-limbing is a bit harsh with it, but I've got a smaller 241 for smaller ones, and that little beast does the job really well.
Still wondering if the 261 would've been the one and only all-round saw, but actually having 60cc and 40cc makes a real difference between the two saws.
I've got some videos about the 362 in finnish forest if you're interested!
I love the saw! I really mainly run the long bar because I use it to cut slabs from my mill on a big slab table. It works well to cut a bunch at once.
@PeeksPeakHobbyHomestead I have used mine once for splitting logs approximately 2m in length, and the saw endured the splitting use well. I didn’t use any table or guide, though; a strip of wood nailed to the side was sufficient when working with the bench material for the campfire spot.
No way. Thats hilarious you bought that saw. No wonder you told me to "stay tuned". It will get more powerful after a few tanks of gas, once the rings set. You'll love it.
Yeah, I already had it when you commented. 😂
Nice saw! I’ve only got ms250 subscribers, so I’ll be sticking with it.😂
I do have a 460 Rancher, which is actually pretty nice. It’s my first Husqvarna. I’ve always owned Stihls.
😂🤣 Gotta give the people what they want. 👊
How does the oiler perform on a 24- 25inch bar ??? Please advise Gunter
So I’m not running it professionally, but in the trees I’ve cut I feel like it keeps up just fine. I do have it opened up all the way…
I run a ms400 with a 25" bar and it does fine. It's the same body and oiler as the ms362
Hey Lucas, now that is one nice chainsaw. I’m guessing that they may be a sawmill coming in the future? Great video.👍🏻
😊👊 Can’t wait to share!
Nice saw. I’d also get a shorter bar too, say 20”, so if you know you’ll be cutting smaller stuff that day, there’ll be a slight weight saving and the saw will cut slightly quicker too.
You know the saw is cutting as the bar disappears through the wood/stem/limb. So no need to lean you body sideways across the saw. For one thing, you’re essentially twisting your lower back while under load. Which is particularly bad for the back. But more importantly, if you get into the habit and one day you have a bad kickback, the saw will be coming for your left shoulder and upper arm. Better to have the saw slightly away from your right-hand side. That way if there’s a bad kickback, the saw will pass to the right of your right shoulder.
I know the saw should activate the chain brake, if a kickback occurs. But what if it fails to do so that one time? Also, even if the sudden movement does activate the chain brake; if you’re leaning sideways over the saw, the bar will still be heading your way and it’ll be carrying a nice sharp chain. Even a stationary chain will give you a painful clonk and could in a severe kickback event, cut the skin.
Great tips! Thank you! I appreciate it.
Kickback is ONLY a problem on short bars. Same kickback force happens on a long bar, but when they are 2X as long, it is actually 1/4 the rotational speed. Why you will NEVER hear actual loggers talking about kickback. It NEVER significantly happens to them as they are all running around with longer bars for the most part. Arborists and homeowners with cheap 16" saws or more expensive ones arborists use with short bars DO have a kickback problem, but frankly this is all WAY WWAAAAAAYYYY overblown. That being said, yes, do not look down the bar of the saw, unless you have to for a precise cut. What is actually DANGEROUS with a chainsaw is cutting your own leg. CHAPS, CHAPS, CHAPS, CHAPS. Crap in your eyes, and noise protection.
If you have your saw sharpened correctly, there is zero need to apply ANY pressure to the saw at all. If you have dull crap and too dumb and lazy to sharpen your saw, yea then you have to lean on it and get TIRED and SWEATY, and DANGEROUS. So, the problem is NOT how he is holding the saw, rather he is used to DULL garbage chain which has created the need to LEAN on the saw. Needs to LEARN how to sharpen his chain.
If you like that 362 you would be blown away by the 462 😂
Nice piece of equipment!!!! Now keep that side by side away from your trees! 😊
Right?! 🤦♂️
The 362 really comes into its own as it breaks in. The more you use it the stronger it runs until completely broken in. At least that is the way it was with my 362. Great saw! I am looking a getting a longer bar for mine for the occasional tree clean up. I have some very large trees that are almost dead that I will have to cut down and cut up. I wished I had a longer bar a few times on the last one I had to cut down. What size bar are you running on yours? BTW Stihl sells a felling dog kit for the outside of the bar. I added it to mine and I really like have the dogs on both sides of the bar.
Awesome! I’m already thinking it feels strong so that will be great! I’m running a 25”. It is nice!
@@PeeksPeakHobbyHomestead Thank you!
You should learn to use your chain brake more often. Chainsaws are awesome but extremely dangerous and anything you can do to mitigate risk is worth taking into account especially with a novice wood cutter. Thanks for the cool vid i love my 362 as well.
Try 20" chain !
First time i see someone with no glasses
Just get an Echo CS590 Timberwolf. It's more reliable than a Husky/Stihl and 90% as capable while costing literally half an MS362.
My 590 never ran good. I sold it and bought a Stihl 460. Love it.
You are a funny man
You lost me at 3:11 when you started chopping stuff with no earmuffs. I can’t take any advice seriously from a dude that doesn’t respect his own well being.
Lol,cant ya just enjoy the video for what it is? It's a personal choice what he does or doesn't wear.