Oh Richard I really appreciated all these videos. Though dare I say I am beginning to hate this car. I went through the first hell replaced tons of stuff, computer, all the fuel injectors/hoses, ovp, idle valve replaced.. I have gone through case of carb spray.. ran fine for like a week idling great. Then back to like 950-1k rpm. The economy on the dash shows pegged to left. Will run the gambit on these items. Guess its time for smoke and vacuum test gauge or to sell it off.
Good luck- it sounds like she has you good. I would spray some carb cleaner around the mechanical injectors while car is idling if you notice a change in rpm then you have found your leak, alternatively it can also be a vacuum switch- 5$ part giving you grief.
@@horvath14041984 Yeah, it could be I had spent over 50 dollars on carb spray trying to find the leak. Though I finally found in in a seam split on a brand new hose. Wait got it fixed. Go to start it and now won't start. Fuel relay died randomly. It won, it's going up for sale next month.
@@horvath14041984 Well, wasn't a fuel pump relay my ignition part that sends a signal to the relay died. Thanks for your words of confidence, but it's going up for sale. Other than doing a more modern day engine swap, it feels like this thing will be in a constant state of broken even if I replace everything.
Hi Richard, thank you for your detailed video. I have a 1983 500 SEC and exactly the same idle control unit. Mercedes wanted to install A new ABS control, only the repair was about 240 euros and a new one .....?(fortunately they didn't tell me the price), because in the dash board the ABS lamp was on but the breaks of the car were stopping as normal. YOUR VIDEO IS A MONEY SAVER. Thanks a lot.
If you are still active, thank you for these very educational high idle and vacuum leak videos. I have a 1983 500sl with the 117 engine and K Jetronic (not KE) injection system. In this video you test a blue/black check valve, but in the part 1 video it is a green/white valve (like I have), which I understand is not a check valve, but a restrictor. What is the purpose of the green/white valve and did you replace it with the blue/black?
The green/white is a vacuum restrictor. There is a right and wrong way to connect them in line. I believe green is towards the vacuum control of the ignition. This is also the purpose. Restricting the vacuum controle valve on the ignition. Basically, a green white is two way and a black and blue is one way. Meaning, if you switch the green white with a black blue the vacuum adjuster of the ignition will not return to normal state after engaging so you ignition timing will be off and the car will not run properly. Testing the green white is easy.. suck on them. Green white will open from two sides. The black blue only one side. If either don’t work they need to be replaced. Green white rarely breaks.
Richard, your videos are through and easy to understand. I live in Jordan and own a 1984 380SL. surely, I will use your videos to fix the vacuum leaks in my car. thanks.
I have a couple of questions relating to your excellent Vacuum video. 1. Are the various Vacuum system independent of each other. For example would a leak in the central locking system affect engine running? 2. Am I right in thinking that an economy gauge not sitting on zero when the car is idling implies a vacuum leak? If so, what could a vacuum leak in this part of the system affect? eg rough idle, cold start, fuel economy etc Mike
Hi Mike, 1. Yes, the systems are more or less independent. Left near de coal behind the booster you will find a series of tubes with checkvalves. See all my videos. A small leak would not affect the idle significantly. But, a series of leaks and bad checkvalves will make sure you won’t be able to keep a vaccuum such as needed voor de AC and the Central locking. 2. Yes, I’d the econometer works- check based on my videos it should be on zero at idle. It is the only tube directly connected to the intake manifold Without! a checkvalve. Usually when the econometer is not at 0 you also have engine issues. See my videos on how to fix the vaccuum leaks around the injectors which is a common problem. Thanks for watching, like and subscribe my videos!!
@@horvath14041984 Thanks for your prompt reply. I connected a home made smoke machine to the vacuum system and have found a leak in a large black rubber pipe which is connected to the back of the engine block. The other end of the pipe is connected to a white plastic T joint, one end of which also appears to be connected to the front of the engine block and the other disappears under the fuel distributor. I'm interested to know whether this leak has any bearing on my small cold start issue. Car starts right up but stumbles and wants to stall if you touch the accelerator. Runs fine when warm. Interestingly, disconnecting the power lead to the warm up regulator doesn't seem to affect the cold start. I am wondering whether the vacuum leak I have found is in any way linked to the Warm up regulator? Mike
Hi Mike, what car and engine? I’ll just assume for now it’s a 560 us spec then you may check the O2 sensor in the exhaust. Also the WUR maybe working but have you checked the electronic injector on the right side connecting to the WUR. The black pipes you are talking to are the engines main vaccuum system. They need to be in top notch condition before you even attempt at looking at something else. It takes some tenacity to solve these problems especially without proper equipment.
@@horvath14041984 Thanks again for your reply. The car in question is a Euro spec 280SL straight 6 engine as opposed to a v8. No O2 sensor on this model and cold start injector tested and working. I have today ordered the big black engine vacuum hose from Mercedes and will be interested to see what effect curing the vacuum leak in that pipe has. When the part arrives, I'll post a video and will make sure I mention your excellent videos on merc vacuum. Mike
I am working on a 85 500SEC Euro that was converted to US spec and has some unknown aftermarket O2 sensor connected. It has the same connection coming off the warm up regulator going to what in effect is a fuel injector. If I remove the system, I still need to power the injector. I am attempting to sort this out. The videos were very helpful, since it is a European Model.
Hi Richard, Very helpful videos thanks for taking the timeout to share. I want to do a smoke test on my W126 560 SEL, can you tell me where I should connect the smoke producing hose? And what I should cover up? Many thanks!
Left behind engine block is feed hose. Put smoke tester on engine to test vacuum system. Put a rubber glove on injection to prevent smoke escaping through MAF. Put smoker on disconnected hose to test car vacuum system. Quick tip: disconnect the runners in the door jamb to see smoke escaping from the doors sooner. A lot of leaks originate from there due to the open and close of doors
this is a most fantastic source of vacuum information. I applaud your intent to educate those of us who need this kind of help. May i ask or plead with you to do it again in the future ,when you have the time, to do it again with your assistant using the proper lighting. Please accept this in the matter intended, that is to help us out here who love what you do. Thanks
+George Basha thanks! Your kind words are well appreciated. Will post new films soon. Have been busy moving into our new home. Subscribe to keep up to date!
Thanks, this was interesting to watch. I have a vacuum leak on my newly bought 560 SEC. Economy gauge sits at about 1/5th from the left at idle. It's quite confusing for a novice home mechanic.
Ik zit zelf in Gronsveld met mijn bedrijf. We hebben regelmatig R107 SL's met de door jou getoonde problemen. Zijn er mogelijkheden dat ik je eens een auto breng ter reparatie?
+rgubbels100 Hi ik woon in Hulsberg. Ja het is mogelijk dat ik je daarmee kan helpen. Heb veel MB en oldtimer ervaring. Ken je bedrijf denk ik. Dream cars ?
Excellent post. That system is on so many different cars.
Consider subscribing because I am currently editing more interesting videos.
Oh Richard I really appreciated all these videos. Though dare I say I am beginning to hate this car.
I went through the first hell replaced tons of stuff, computer, all the fuel injectors/hoses, ovp, idle valve replaced.. I have gone through case of carb spray.. ran fine for like a week idling great. Then back to like 950-1k rpm.
The economy on the dash shows pegged to left.
Will run the gambit on these items.
Guess its time for smoke and vacuum test gauge or to sell it off.
Good luck- it sounds like she has you good. I would spray some carb cleaner around the mechanical injectors while car is idling if you notice a change in rpm then you have found your leak, alternatively it can also be a vacuum switch- 5$ part giving you grief.
@@horvath14041984 Yeah, it could be I had spent over 50 dollars on carb spray trying to find the leak. Though I finally found in in a seam split on a brand new hose. Wait got it fixed. Go to start it and now won't start. Fuel relay died randomly. It won, it's going up for sale next month.
Sorry to hear that- sometimes they do. Maybe you will find the energy again
@@horvath14041984 Well, wasn't a fuel pump relay my ignition part that sends a signal to the relay died. Thanks for your words of confidence, but it's going up for sale. Other than doing a more modern day engine swap, it feels like this thing will be in a constant state of broken even if I replace everything.
Hi Richard, thank you for your detailed video. I have a 1983 500 SEC and exactly the same idle control unit. Mercedes wanted to install A new ABS control, only the repair was about 240 euros and a new one .....?(fortunately they didn't tell me the price), because in the dash board the ABS lamp was on but the breaks of the car were stopping as normal. YOUR VIDEO IS A MONEY SAVER. Thanks a lot.
Happy to hear I could help you
If you are still active, thank you for these very educational high idle and vacuum leak videos. I have a 1983 500sl with the 117 engine and K Jetronic (not KE) injection system. In this video you test a blue/black check valve, but in the part 1 video it is a green/white valve (like I have), which I understand is not a check valve, but a restrictor. What is the purpose of the green/white valve and did you replace it with the blue/black?
The green/white is a vacuum restrictor. There is a right and wrong way to connect them in line. I believe green is towards the vacuum control of the ignition. This is also the purpose. Restricting the vacuum controle valve on the ignition. Basically, a green white is two way and a black and blue is one way. Meaning, if you switch the green white with a black blue the vacuum adjuster of the ignition will not return to normal state after engaging so you ignition timing will be off and the car will not run properly. Testing the green white is easy.. suck on them. Green white will open from two sides. The black blue only one side. If either don’t work they need to be replaced. Green white rarely breaks.
Richard, your videos are through and easy to understand. I live in Jordan and own a 1984 380SL. surely, I will use your videos to fix the vacuum leaks in my car. thanks.
I have a couple of questions relating to your excellent Vacuum video.
1. Are the various Vacuum system independent of each other. For example would a leak in the central locking system affect engine running?
2. Am I right in thinking that an economy gauge not sitting on zero when the car is idling implies a vacuum leak? If so, what could a vacuum leak in this part of the system affect? eg rough idle, cold start, fuel economy etc
Mike
Hi Mike,
1. Yes, the systems are more or less independent. Left near de coal behind the booster you will find a series of tubes with checkvalves. See all my videos. A small leak would not affect the idle significantly. But, a series of leaks and bad checkvalves will make sure you won’t be able to keep a vaccuum such as needed voor de AC and the Central locking.
2. Yes, I’d the econometer works- check based on my videos it should be on zero at idle. It is the only tube directly connected to the intake manifold Without! a checkvalve. Usually when the econometer is not at 0 you also have engine issues. See my videos on how to fix the vaccuum leaks around the injectors which is a common problem.
Thanks for watching, like and subscribe my videos!!
@@horvath14041984 Thanks for your prompt reply. I connected a home made smoke machine to the vacuum system and have found a leak in a large black rubber pipe which is connected to the back of the engine block. The other end of the pipe is connected to a white plastic T joint, one end of which also appears to be connected to the front of the engine block and the other disappears under the fuel distributor. I'm interested to know whether this leak has any bearing on my small cold start issue. Car starts right up but stumbles and wants to stall if you touch the accelerator. Runs fine when warm. Interestingly, disconnecting the power lead to the warm up regulator doesn't seem to affect the cold start. I am wondering whether the vacuum leak I have found is in any way linked to the Warm up regulator? Mike
Hi Mike, what car and engine? I’ll just assume for now it’s a 560 us spec then you may check the O2 sensor in the exhaust. Also the WUR maybe working but have you checked the electronic injector on the right side connecting to the WUR.
The black pipes you are talking to are the engines main vaccuum system. They need to be in top notch condition before you even attempt at looking at something else.
It takes some tenacity to solve these problems especially without proper equipment.
@@horvath14041984 Thanks again for your reply. The car in question is a Euro spec 280SL straight 6 engine as opposed to a v8. No O2 sensor on this model and cold start injector tested and working. I have today ordered the big black engine vacuum hose from Mercedes and will be interested to see what effect curing the vacuum leak in that pipe has. When the part arrives, I'll post a video and will make sure I mention your excellent videos on merc vacuum. Mike
Very detailed and informative. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I am working on a 85 500SEC Euro that was converted to US spec and has some unknown aftermarket O2 sensor connected. It has the same connection coming off the warm up regulator going to what in effect is a fuel injector. If I remove the system, I still need to power the injector. I am attempting to sort this out. The videos were very helpful, since it is a European Model.
Your welcome. The WUR and cold start injector is essential for the engine proper starting. The O2 sensor modulates the duration “open”
Do you have any knowledge on the aftermarket blue box system?
Never heard of it actually. What is it?
Hi Richard,
Very helpful videos thanks for taking the timeout to share.
I want to do a smoke test on my W126 560 SEL, can you tell me where I should connect the smoke producing hose? And what I should cover up?
Many thanks!
Left behind engine block is feed hose. Put smoke tester on engine to test vacuum system. Put a rubber glove on injection to prevent smoke escaping through MAF.
Put smoker on disconnected hose to test car vacuum system. Quick tip: disconnect the runners in the door jamb to see smoke escaping from the doors sooner. A lot of leaks originate from there due to the open and close of doors
this is a most fantastic source of vacuum information. I applaud your intent to educate those of us who need this kind of help. May i ask or plead with you to do it again in the future ,when you have the time, to do it again with your assistant using the proper lighting. Please accept this in the matter intended, that is to help us out here who love what you do.
Thanks
+George Basha thanks! Your kind words are well appreciated. Will post new films soon. Have been busy moving into our new home. Subscribe to keep up to date!
+George Basha also see my other films for more educational films on Mercedes
Thanks, this was interesting to watch. I have a vacuum leak on my newly bought 560 SEC. Economy gauge sits at about 1/5th from the left at idle. It's quite confusing for a novice home mechanic.
Hello, my 500sec shift gear in maximum 1900~2000rpm, my bowden cable it's okay, do you think is vaccum system problem?
Hi Richard I have a question if I sent you my idle control computer would you replace those resistors for me of course id pay you for your labor?
Sorry for my late response. Yes I can help you
Hello Richard, the video's on the MB engines are very interesting. Are you by any chance located in the south of the Netherlands? Regards, Ruud
+rgubbels100 yes I live near Maastricht. Regards Richard
Ik zit zelf in Gronsveld met mijn bedrijf. We hebben regelmatig R107 SL's met de door jou getoonde problemen. Zijn er mogelijkheden dat ik je eens een auto breng ter reparatie?
+rgubbels100 Hi ik woon in Hulsberg. Ja het is mogelijk dat ik je daarmee kan helpen. Heb veel MB en oldtimer ervaring. Ken je bedrijf denk ik. Dream cars ?
هل من مترجم ...!