Love this one mate!!! Great set up, much more convenient than building a smelly smoke machine. As far of the result I do not see any major leak from your engine. In my case the plastic boot was cracked and leaking from the back of the engine.
This is brilliant! I hadn't seen this method of testing for a vacuum leak. I've had a wonky economy gauge on my 85' 380sl for a while and suspected it's vacuum related. I'm going to give this technique a try and see if I can find any obvious leaks. Thanks for the video!
You also probably missed the many vacuum actuators inside you interior dash. They are 3-4 cm round discs with rubber connectors and rubber diaphragms. Many control hvac louvers and gates.
I am sure it has vacuum leaks just because of it's age. I easily found my multiple leaks by spraying a little brake clean through the straw around the engine while it is running. The engine will idle faster as the brake clean is burned. The injectors seals were leaking and I changed all of those taking care of those leaks and now I have to change the leaking brake booster grommet when it warms up outside
I recently went to the mechanic and he sprayed a bunch of something around the engine. He said it was all good. I obviously didn’t know what he was doing but it sounds like what you’re describing.
@@mericavids green O rings below? I may be changing out the injectors with the rubber black ones only soon. I’m not sure when the injectors were last changed.
Yes, most likely a injector seat. This vacuum leak happens only when the engine is cold and during early warmup. This is typical for dried out / hard rubber and defective o rings - another spot for this type of leak is the donuts between upper and lower engine intake manifold or the boot where it connects to the throttle body. I didn’t see any substantial smoke coming out of your smoke machine. The supply pressure to smoke machine should be at a minimum 1 bar / 15psi - Peter
Thanks… trying to address a hard warm start now. Accumulator was done a few months ago. Trying to figure if it’s leaking fuel injectors vs cold start valve vs something else… any thoughts?
@@sophiathe380sl do you have a fuel pressure tester so you can check your system and control pressure? In most cases with hart start when warm is a leaking colt start valve and or leaking injectors - I would test the injectors with an injector tester and watch the spray pattern, opening psi and if injector drips when pressure is below open pressure. At that point you may want to change all 8 injector cups with O ring and the injector seal
@@inovahightechltd thank you for the info. I think it did sit for some time. I’ve had it for 8 months now. I don’t have a pressure tester. Maybe I can find one before I get started. I was hoping not to change the injector cups because I don’t want to break them in the cylinder and cause more problems. 😬
@@sophiathe380sl actually they come out fairly easy if you use some needle nose pliers and grab one side and pull real hard - I never had one brake on me. Normally when you have this situation and you don’t want anything to go into the cylinder head intake chamber then you remove the spark plug on that cylinder you want to work on, connect a adapter hose for high pressure to spark plug thread (Bosch pressure hose) and turn engine over until the intake valve on this cylinder is fully open and apply 100 to 150 psi. Make sure you wear a full mask type safety goggles while doing this.
The bottom "economy needle" is simply telling you what your gasoline economy is at any given time. Floor the throttle And you'll see that needle going to the red. Coast don't into a stop sign and you'll see that needle coast all the way over the left. Unless you're looking at a different print needle but you don't specify so I have no idea.
@@sophiathe380slI wish I had the same search algorithm that Grumpy Steve has, I would have found you earlier. My algorithm only showed me Kent Bergsma mercedessource vids where he teases advice then tries to sell you all his junk.
Love this one mate!!! Great set up, much more convenient than building a smelly smoke machine.
As far of the result I do not see any major leak from your engine. In my case the plastic boot was cracked and leaking from the back of the engine.
Thanks man. I was going to make your smoke machine but went with the lazy way out.
This is brilliant! I hadn't seen this method of testing for a vacuum leak. I've had a wonky economy gauge on my 85' 380sl for a while and suspected it's vacuum related. I'm going to give this technique a try and see if I can find any obvious leaks. Thanks for the video!
Nice! Stole it from Scotty Kilmer. Cheaper and easier than making a smoke machine. Haha.
It's been nice watching your videos. I just got an 82 380 sl with 98 k . garage keeper. Learning all about this stuff. Thanks
Congrats Steve! I appreciate you watching and leaving a comment! I never know who’s out there watching my videos. 😂
Good onya matey
You also probably missed the many vacuum actuators inside you interior dash. They are 3-4 cm round discs with rubber connectors and rubber diaphragms. Many control hvac louvers and gates.
Thank you. Good to know.
I am sure it has vacuum leaks just because of it's age. I easily found my multiple leaks by spraying a little brake clean through the straw around the engine while it is running. The engine will idle faster as the brake clean is burned. The injectors seals were leaking and I changed all of those taking care of those leaks and now I have to change the leaking brake booster grommet when it warms up outside
I recently went to the mechanic and he sprayed a bunch of something around the engine. He said it was all good. I obviously didn’t know what he was doing but it sounds like what you’re describing.
@@sophiathe380sl well that's good. Changing the 'o' rings
on the injectors is time consuming
@@mericavids green O rings below? I may be changing out the injectors with the rubber black ones only soon. I’m not sure when the injectors were last changed.
@@sophiathe380sl I don't remember the color but they were brittle and had to be careful not to lose any pieces down the injectors holes
@@mericavids that’s why I’m not messing with that 😂
Yes, most likely a injector seat. This vacuum leak happens only when the engine is cold and during early warmup. This is typical for dried out / hard rubber and defective o rings - another spot for this type of leak is the donuts between upper and lower engine intake manifold or the boot where it connects to the throttle body. I didn’t see any substantial smoke coming out of your smoke machine. The supply pressure to smoke machine should be at a minimum 1 bar / 15psi - Peter
Thanks… trying to address a hard warm start now. Accumulator was done a few months ago. Trying to figure if it’s leaking fuel injectors vs cold start valve vs something else… any thoughts?
@@sophiathe380sl do you have a fuel pressure tester so you can check your system and control pressure?
In most cases with hart start when warm is a leaking colt start valve and or leaking injectors - I would test the injectors with an injector tester and watch the spray pattern, opening psi and if injector drips when pressure is below open pressure. At that point you may want to change all 8 injector cups with O ring and the injector seal
@@sophiathe380sl and did this car sit for more then 6 month before you bought it?
@@inovahightechltd thank you for the info. I think it did sit for some time. I’ve had it for 8 months now. I don’t have a pressure tester. Maybe I can find one before I get started. I was hoping not to change the injector cups because I don’t want to break them in the cylinder and cause more problems. 😬
@@sophiathe380sl actually they come out fairly easy if you use some needle nose pliers and grab one side and pull real hard - I never had one brake on me.
Normally when you have this situation and you don’t want anything to go into the cylinder head intake chamber then you remove the spark plug on that cylinder you want to work on, connect a adapter hose for high pressure to spark plug thread (Bosch pressure hose) and turn engine over until the intake valve on this cylinder is fully open and apply 100 to 150 psi. Make sure you wear a full mask type safety goggles while doing this.
“Mercedes R107… Do I Have a Vacuum Leak?” The answer to that question 100% of the time is, YES, you do have a vacuum leak.
What needle are you looking at?? There's lots there!!
The bottom "economy needle" is simply telling you what your gasoline economy is at any given time. Floor the throttle And you'll see that needle going to the red. Coast don't into a stop sign and you'll see that needle coast all the way over the left. Unless you're looking at a different print needle but you don't specify so I have no idea.
Yes the economy needle. I thought it was based on a vacuum hose.
Nice video, was that the vacuum line to the brake servo you used to input the smoke or something else?
Thanks Ed. I wish I knew the technical names of these parts. Haha. The video shows my setup.
@@sophiathe380sl I’m 95% that’s where you connected, pipe would be on the other side in my car obviously!
@@classiced1416 it is the hose that connects to the big black drum if that helps.
@@sophiathe380sl yep sounds like it, it takes a vacuum feed to boost the brake pedal
Make sure your timing is correct first
you've flooded UA-cam with useless videos that obscure the search for what I'm actually trying to find. Very frustrating!
Sorry to hear of your frustration. Your comment probably moved it up in the algorithm.
@@sophiathe380slI wish I had the same search algorithm that Grumpy Steve has, I would have found you earlier. My algorithm only showed me Kent Bergsma mercedessource vids where he teases advice then tries to sell you all his junk.
@@MoGumboFukUTubeForChngngMyName 😂 He’s a mechanic trying to make money. I’m just trying to fix my car.