Just to clear something up about the 150C diode at 3:30 I was using a 5V noctua fan instead of a 12V noctua fan at first, so it was overloaded to 480%. After installing the correct 12v fan, it is now running at 36 C.
if you have pwm control, you can set the max duty cycle to 50% and add a capacitor in parallel to the fan to get 12V instead of using a zener which will get toasty.
Thanks for the work you put into this. I can now print in peace! One thing I discovered was that on my noctua fans (A4x20 and A4x10) the red wire is +12V, not yellow as mentioned. I passed on making a separate cable so maybe thats why.
Great work! I'm definitely doing this to my Two Trees Sapphire Plus. It's pretty quiet except for the fans. Right now I'm working on my filament dry storage. Fan upgrades are next.
I subscribe to A LOT of channels... Nathan, you are so damn awesome, you're by faaar my favorite. You add just the right amount of humor when I'm not expecting it. Lol
Cutoff Wheels are a bit tough to cut curves with, but yeah it could be done. Speaking of better tools for the job, I just tried out a 400 watt laser today that would have cut right through this in about 10 seconds. I'll be going back for seconds and making a video about it!
First channel that immediately has been "Patreon"-ed by me. Keep up the good Ender3 S1 (short ESI) content, and developing "that fann" of yours. :D PS.: Please, never be normal.... thnks
@@NathanBuildsRobots I just try to keep up with you, ordering all the necessary equipment to be your gunnie pig guy relating to ESIs :D I will use ASA to print them, 'cause of its UV resistance. The first one is already printed as a tryout from PLA, one not the stl would be nice if orinted in the printing position. My dream is to make a 12cm Noctua into a cooler in the head (what a nonsense, but fun idea), and also thinking about making a cooling solution, where there is a big cooler is relatively far away from the head, which will be cooled thru a tube. I dont know if pressure and frictions are allowing it, but i like the idea of using something powerful and deliver its stream into the tiny head. A Tube-fun on UA-cam .... See? :D Man i like your style... I hope/wish you will have the same rising viewcount as 'I did a thing' has since i get to know him. ;)
Great video! I might think of this when I upgrade from my old ender 3 v2 to a S1, but although your explaination ist grear, it's a whole bunch of work. Especially cutting of the buttom seems like a huge step for me. But a very great video, I loved the beginning :D
ok this intro is awesome; to add, this is all more than I am able to do to a printer, but it's really cool to see. I am pretty keen on the Ender S1 and it might be my 2nd printer.. I am still learning on my Ender 3 that we just got fully set up
Thanks! I wish manufacturers would do more with silent fans. I like a quiet machine. It's doubly important for me because it makes it easier to film and record audio when the fans aren't so loud
Noctua are expensive, the stock fans powered at 12-15v are sufficient. I didn't buy any particular fan and used the stock one with dc dc step down mini bucks. I've the Ender 3 V2 Neo, and now it's silent without any particular mods, simply I've used Mini 360 bucks on the stock PSU and mainboard fans that I've choosen from 12-15v till obtain low noise and still good airflow. And opened with a cupsaw the power supply cover to have more air flow. On the hot end I've used a Sunon MF40202V2-1000C-A99 DC 24V 0.68W 40x40x20mm achieved for 21 db. I don't need any other special mods, now my Ender 3 print's well and has very low noise.
Somewhat of a recurring joke on my channel, that I'm more worried about my view count than your safety 😆 But really, staying safe is more important. So take your time and protect yourself!
Another great video! I think my ender 3 S1 is too precious to me to do a silent fan mod. I am quite the noob at modding and I don't really want to risk breaking it. But I still love the mod!
Nice… the giant fan looks awesome and does a great job of cooling things with virtually no noise. Best thing is when you flip your printer on and second guess if you forgot to plug it in or broke it because you don’t hear a thing!
@@NathanBuildsRobots My printer has an annoying *BEEEEEEP* Every time you turn it on. I'm so OCD about the noise that I got some thick foam double sided tape and covered the little black speaker on the board haha.
I've been using a 40x20 12V noctua for hotend cooling and a 120mm beQuiet (undervolted to 5V) in a custom electronics case and have had zero problems since I've installed them; the coldend has pretty much the same temp as stock (measured by hand) and the raspberry pi and motherboard run at around 35 celsius during prints (measured by klipper firmware). Should get to replacing the stock blower sometime, but procrastination is a strict mistress xD I've heard the 40x10 noctua is a bit underpowered, cooling-wise, though I haven't verified that claim myself; I just bought the 40x20 since the only good reason for the 10mm thin one is that it's a drop-in replacement for the stock mount (size-wise; you still have to regulate the voltage). Love the detailed walkthrough, though I personally would recommend using a second DC-DC buck converter instead of the zener. Not that it doesn't work - quite evidently it does - but I just don't like the thought of a passive component just toasting away in a cable somewhere. Again, just a personal recommendation and not a "don't do that" :)
I am keeping the hotend fan (I cut the stl in mesh mixer and kept only the heatbreak fan). I will be using a gelid fan instead of the noctua... they are 50% cheaper. I will receive it tomorrow, so I will check how it performs...
Apart from the big resonance of the metal body and the Y motor, it is a good machine. The big fan Noctua eliminates no noise.. But after some printing problems, I discovered a difference of 1mm in horizontal on the X axis. So it is to be monitored and corrected for new users. On your sprite cooling fixture, the fan for the Hot-End looks the same as the standard one? The loudest is the small 30 mm near the CR-Touch
@@NathanBuildsRobots is the psu fan also 12v on an s1? In that case, Aerocool makes a 12v 200mm fan with 18dBa noise level. If I wasn't receiving a 60mm and 40mm today for psu and motherboard, I would have bought that instead, after seeing your video...
maybe you could show a picture of the sprite mother board for the wiring? I don't get how you get 3 fans at the end (if you keep the original one on the left side
for the buck converter is there somewhere you can have me look for a better idea on how to get it done. i get that you install it right off the psu just curious how. i have not popped mine open yet so haven't a clue. parts are in the mail because jesus is that psu fan driving me crazy.
Trust me, you're in store for a lot more dumb ideas. I shorted out one of my fan plugs and burnt a PCB trace, then fixed it by soldering a tiny wire onto it.
You should at least not cover that zener diode so it can more effectively dissipate the heat. They should not be operating close to 100c Using zener diodes to stepdown is horribly inefficient as the heat generated=(12v)*current. both 40x10, and 40x20 fans are pulling 0.5A based on label, hence the zener diode needs to dissipate 0.6w of heat. It is like if you used a 24ohm resistor there. Buck converters are a much better option or wire fans in series.
So that footage was when i was using a 4020 noctua fan with 2 parallel 150W 1/4w resistors for an equivalent 75 ohms of resistance. It was overvolting the fan and the tiny resistors were not dissipating enough heat. 2nd try was with zener diode with leads trimmed short on a 4020 noctua fan, with 2 layers of shrink tube around it. Still was getting very hot amd melted the other wire it was next to. 3rd try is 12v zener diode with leads left long (they act like little heatsinks and spread the heat out) and running a 4010 fan which uses 1/2 the power, with only 1 layer of shrink tube around the diode, and a couple layers around the wire next to it as shown in my install. Also I tucked the extra wire & diode I to the empty spot where the old blower fan was, so it's being actively cooled at least a little bit by the 4010 fan. It's running at 36C now, which I'm pretty sure it's OK. What do you think about the motherboard temps? It's a bit hotter than stock but is it enough to worry about? I never knew that 1 or 2 watts could get something over 150C before this, but hey I learned something new!
OOOOOHHHH WAIT The 4020 fan I was using was a 5V version. Which explains why it was pushing so much air at 12v! It was outperforming the stock fan and was just about as loud! Thanks for bringing this up, would not have caught that if I didn't take another look at my fans.
@@NathanBuildsRobots oh, that more reassuring, I thought you were running it with the diode above 100c. Theoretically, infinite temps can be achieved as long as the input power exceeds power dissipated, hence I was telling you to leave out the insulation around the diode. Your Mobo temp is perfectly reasonable. Most semiconductor run around 40-80 without any issues. Higher temps can significantly decrease life probably due to a combination of increasing electromigration and causing thermal migration of dopants. Also surprised that the 5v fan didn't get fried at 12v. Looks like they are well built. Love your videos, keep up the good work!
@@NathanBuildsRobots Now I am a big confused, in the video you had the 12v zener measured 150C, was that heat due to the fact you put a 5V fan there (V 0,25W)? Because both the Noctua 10 and 20mm are having the same Watt, 0,6W at 0,05A. If I install as you did in the video but using the 12V (Noctua 40x20mm), will the heat be under control on the zener?
Great overview of what goes into this modification! I just installed a Sprite Pro kit on my V2 so I'm not sure if the same fans will work, but I want to figure out something eventually cause the Sprite hotend is actually louder than the V2 one.
The sound that my S1 pro makes is crazy. Just the fans. I need to replace them. I would like to see another video for the pro version, maybe more updated with links to buy the thinks we need. That would be awsome.
The fan replacement process should be very similar for the Pro, but I may do another episode on S1 Pro fan replacement. It won't be out until next month, but it should be interesting. At higher speeds the Y axis on my Pro is loud compared to the normal S1, almost to the point where the fan noise doesnt matter.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Thank you for your work! I will wait, and I will share the video in this facebook group that are s1/s1 pro owners only. This would be very helpful. (P.S. if possible, try with less crazy thing, cutting the bottom so mutch and cutting original cables, are very scary things to see)
They have a little adapter right now. But I think the problem for them is they don't want to develop a product unless they can sell it for 10+ years. All of their PC products will always be useful, but who knows - 3D printer modding might just be a flash in the pan. Hard for them to make a business case for it I imagine.
@@NathanBuildsRobots it’s already on the roadmap, they ARE releasing 24V 40mm fans, just in typical Noctua fashion they are taking their sweet time (I’m ALSO waiting on their long delayed new 140mm for my PC 😛)
These get better and better each time. I just put one of these bad boys on my Aquila and a SKR Mini 3.0. Too bad nothing happened when I turned it on…not sure what I did wrong yet.
A multimeter is great for checking to see if your wires are done correctly, if the fan is seeing 12v it will turn on! Just remember , positive to yellow, negative to black.
Thanks. I just got a multimeter and have yet to try it out. I don’t think the fan is the issue. They don’t boot up with the board on the 3.0. The stock board fried when the hot end hit the bed. So both the fan and the board are new. This should be a drop in for the Aquila X2 but nothing powered up. I probably did something wrong. But hey I didn’t see sparks or smoke, so any crash you can walk away from right?
I'm a bit confused here. You replaced the bottom motherboard fan and power supply fan with 1 big fan situated in the center at the bottom? I mean that would explain why the temperature was higher on the motherboard because you're no longer blowing air directly on top of it. But what Im confused about the most here is the actual reduction in sound for all this work? Judging by your graph, it looks like this new setup is even louder than the stock fans at 100%. Your chart doesnt show fan speed % for stock fans, so I assume that those bars are indicating the stock fans at 100%? How loud is the printer when stock fans are at 30% vs the new fans?
Good questions, unfortunately I can't answer with real data since my printer is already modified, but I can answer with how I "feel" about it. With the part cooling fan off using the old setup, it was only 2-3 dB quieter since the rest of the fans are quite loud. With the new fan at 100% it is providing about 4x more part cooling power than the stock setup, so while it is louder, it is also providing better cooling and print quality. With the fan set to ~20% I can't hear it at all and the part cooling is as good or better than the stock setup at 100%. Plus now I have the option to crank up the fans to get really good 75 degree overhang performance if I need it.
@@NathanBuildsRobots thanks for clarifying that. So it seems this is more of cooling mod to achieve better preformance rather than a sound reducing/slitent mod. I'm just building an enclosure now for my s1 and planning out everything and was wondering if I should do this setup, but it was throwing a wrench in my design as it required extra bottom clearance for the big fan and that means a taller case and more plexiglass I would need. I think I'll skip the bottom upgrades, but may end up doing the extruder fan upgrade if I find heat being a problem down the line.
@@007craft I am also testing a version with a 40mm noctua fan as the cooling fan. I will release that model as a free download on my patreon/thingiverse on the 28th
I did the install here. Though if I were to do it again I'd use the slice engineering heatbreak, whi h should fit in without using a hacksaw. And if I wanted to do it the easiest way, I'd use the slice heatbreak and a mk8 CHT or stock nozzle, and keep the old heater block. ua-cam.com/video/YrIYvhOGAs4/v-deo.html
Wow. I can't believe how quiet this makes my Ender 3 S1. Nathan you are AWESOME. Thank you so much. I do have a question for you though.......I notice when I am printing...if I have a light plugged into the same surge strip, I see flicker in the light. Do I need a better surge strip? A better power supply in the printer? Or should I get a UPS to try and isolate the conducted emissions coming off the printer?
It's common for LED lights to be very sensitive to voltage fluctuations. So I would say its normal, as long as you are not overloading it. Most surge stops are good for over 800 watts. I'm glad the mods helped!
Hi, probably too late to help, but my Ender 3 S1 did this because the switchable PSU was set to 240v from the factory. I flipped the switch to 120v, and the flickering went away.
Heyo! I'm trying to do this and sorry I'm slow but at one point you seem to be using a 40x20 noctua and then at the end it looks like a 40x10? Which one are you using for the hot end cooling? Also are you leaving the original fan located on the left side of the extruder assembly?
Have you let prints run for a long time using this setup? I ask because I have a similar setup (slightly different design) using 2x 4020 Sunon Maglev axial fans (One for hotend and one for part cooling), and heat creep inevitably sets in for any print longer than 60 mins in duration. Upon further reading Noctua NF-A4X10 has a lower CFM than the Sunon fan. However, the Noctua provides higher static pressure. Can you advise please? Great video as always Nathan.
I didn't have any issues. The way I designed this it provides much more cooling than some others I have looked at. The fan recirculates air against the parts its up against, in addition to pushing air through the heatsink. I've since swapped the hotend over to using an entirely different printhead (Microswiss NG)
I had a HeroMe set up on my E3P and all Noctua except part cooling which used 2 5015s. I just got a sprite, and it is LOUD! But, I don't know how I feel about modding the Sprite yet... I really need to build another machine. Like the eyeballs!
The side cutters are not even made for that work you have used then, no wonder they breake, they are only for cutting electronics small wires and legs from resistors and similar work, use propper tools for the work and they hold much longer.
I consider the clippers I was using as "borderline acceptable" for the job, with safety glasses as necessary precaution. They are high-quality American made cutter that can probably make 1,000 - 10,000 cuts before breaking, which is better than most tools you get at a hardware store. The ones that come with the printer are too thin and would break in 10-100 cuts and are definitely a no-go.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I cut a thicker piece plastic with a side cutters I thought it could be done, but than the one blade snapped and was flying in my direction, it's always better to wear saefty glasse. 😬
@@WaschyNumber1 quality control is extremely important for tools subject to repetitive high stresses, like cutters. Simple mistakes in processing can result in a loss of 90% or more of its strength.
Fantastic video, thank you very much! Why don't you put one (or two) buck converter(s) from 24v to 12v between the motherboard and the wire into the case?
I figured the always on approach is more failsafe than running it through the motherboard. There might be cases where the PSU is on and drawing lots of power, but the motherboard fan is off (like when heating up the bed at the start of a print).
nice video! going for it asap, do you keep the fan on the left side of the sprite? I don't understand where to plug 2 fan if you do keep the one on the left could you explain that to me? my English isn't that good so I might not have understood something in the video! good job anyway!
Yes, you can remove the left side fan. Also, if you join the discord you can ask about other fan mods for the hotend. There are some good options out there that aren’t by me
I have six ender 3 pro, and they have all been running with blocked power supply fans since day 1 to remove the incredibly loud noise. I yanked a zip tie into the fan to stop it spinning. Problem solved.
Hi Nom, I am operating more like a niche product development firm, where I offer high quality goods that are professionally assembled and tested. The proceeds go towards paying off development costs and funding more innovative products. I am in contact with distributors that may be able to offer discounts and local shipping rates once I enter full-rate production in December.
LOVE! Just recently picked up an Ender3S1 First thing I started doing was googling and youtubing mods lol I tried to follow your patreon link to pay/get the print file for this but the link is broken :(
I think I might try a different approach. No matter what fan you use, forcing air into those tiny ducts is hugely inefficient, there has to be a better way. An aquarium pump (high grade pro models) can provide nice useable volume of air, so all I have to do is design either a manifold to direct air to 2 (or more) nozzles, or an air handler that lets the air escape in an annulus around the nozzle for 360 degree cooling. Air volume would be controlled by remote mounted servo controlled valves interfaced to appear to the firmware as normal fans, probably via an Arduino. Once the manifold is in place, all the printhead has to carry in terms of added load is a length of silicone tubing supported at the top near the filament carrier mount.
Really good video and I already started with the part cooling fan and already saw some huge improvements but my question is what did you do with the old cooling fan for the hot end did you just leave it in there unplugged or what happened with that
I removed it so it doesn't impede the airflow, but you could probably leave it in there. If i left it in, I would consider running it and the noctua fan at 12v in parallel, with the 2nd noctua flow direction reversed so they arent fighting, if you catch my drift.
I added just the parts fan only version and I'm having issues with the fan not coming on/ not coming on full power because of the extruder motor. Did u have this problem? I'm using the fan from your parts list
Yes I had that issue. Which version are you using? The issue was documented in the 5015, but I posted a fixed version. Is it the 4020 blower? I might need to modify that one too, moving the fan upwards
All fans are turned on for those tests. The 100% setting is louder than stock, but it is moving about 5-10x more air. A fair comparison in terms of equivalent part cooling performance is stock vs 10% on new fans.
Hi, from the video it seems that you're controlling the hotend fan speed somehow. But as I understand, only the part cooling fan has pwm control. Can you elaborate on this?
thanks for the perfect guide! A question regarding the height of the air flow, should it be directed exactly at the tip of the nozzle, or more higher at the nozzle (ie just below the heat block)?
I go for just below the heater block. IMO half of the air should hit in front of the printed area and half should go behind, so you get more even results at different directions.
I just got my printer and printed another print head with the two jets mainly cos it reminded me of an octopus :D and I was put off by the 150 degrees, I'm so glad that is not an issue for the 12v fan. While it does indeed look cool, now when I print anything with infill I have pan pipes... And I can't add the side fan. Other than that the difference over the stock is so significant. Are the dual jets better/worse or the same in terms of output? Or does the fan improvement mean that it is now so over powered it doesn't matter?
The link on Thingiverse for the feet.. to buy the squash balls.. goes to an M2 screw set instead. Might need to update that. What size squash balls did you use?
Hi Khoi, in my experience with Noctua fans, yellow is positive, black is ground. Blue/green are PWM wires. Other manufacturers assign yellow to PWM sometimes. Check out this article by Noctua: noctua.at/en/what-pin-configuration-do-noctua-products-use
I am likely just going to replace each fan directly for the power supply and motherboard to start. I got a screencap of the motherboard fan (CHA6024RL-15B 24V 0.10A), but not the power supply fan. If you still have it kicking around, can you let me know what part it is? Thanks!
I haven't looked at my S1 in a while, been tied up getting a couple reviews made. But I will be looking at my S1 hopefully in a couple weeks and I can check.
The diode seems quite inefficient, why not one of those poststamp size dc step down converters? Would be cool to see a design that fits a MP1584EN converter on the model
Hi Nathan, just another question. Do u know if you can regulate the Hotend Fan per voltage or pwm? I use Klipper if this matters (which I can really recommend its awsome) Or do I need to use a buck converter or have to find a free port on the mainboard?
Hi Nathan, great video and i’m using your design with a 5015 fan. For the hotend fan i’m using a ultra small buck converter and all works well. I was wondering if you could share the step file so i can make an addition to hold the converter. Greetings from René from the Netherlands.
I would like to make a simple adapter like the one i made in this video and sell them on my website. That you can just plug 1 side into the fan port and the other side into the noctua fan. I really wish 3d printers would move to the ATX standard, like what computers use. That way there would be standardized pins and connectors, and easier upgrades.
Just to clear something up about the 150C diode at 3:30
I was using a 5V noctua fan instead of a 12V noctua fan at first, so it was overloaded to 480%.
After installing the correct 12v fan, it is now running at 36 C.
Great to know this, the temp put me off doing it :P
Oww wow... Ok Zener diode here I come!
You probably should update the links above. Noctua as atleast two 200x30mm 12 volt fans. One a using a four pin connector and the other a three pin.
So its save to do i dont need a stepper ?
5w diode is crazy hot. Tried 2 in parallel same... link the diode parameters you used to get 36c
that intro deserves an Oscar 😂
Yeah. Oh hey, I just realized it's Yu! 👋
You are my hero man. I sincerely appreciate this fresh approach to the world of 3d printing!
I couldn’t say this better myself! He is what this community needs!!
The opening of this video had me in tears. New to the channel, genius work my friend.
Finally, someone who cuts out the fan shields. Those create so much turbulence. Just removing them makes a HUGE difference.
if you have pwm control, you can set the max duty cycle to 50% and add a capacitor in parallel to the fan to get 12V instead of using a zener which will get toasty.
Good advice, but the cap needs to be big enough ;)
Thanks for the work you put into this. I can now print in peace! One thing I discovered was that on my noctua fans (A4x20 and A4x10) the red wire is +12V, not yellow as mentioned. I passed on making a separate cable so maybe thats why.
That is very interesting! Maybe on the 3 on versions is different? I always get the 4 pin versions
@@NathanBuildsRobots Yea I looked it up on the noctua page and found this noctua.at/pub/media/wysiwyg/faqs/noctua_pin_configuration_12v_fans.png
That intro was gold
Mate I had a good laugh at the gags in this vid. Looking to upgrade my S1 Pro, Cheers!
Great work! I'm definitely doing this to my Two Trees Sapphire Plus. It's pretty quiet except for the fans. Right now I'm working on my filament dry storage. Fan upgrades are next.
I want a cube printer! All mine are bed slingers, except for a Voxelab Aries, which isn't very moddable
I subscribe to A LOT of channels... Nathan, you are so damn awesome, you're by faaar my favorite. You add just the right amount of humor when I'm not expecting it. Lol
Thank you, thank you. Thank you very much.
For cutting the metal you could get diamond cutoff wheels from harbor freight to use with a dremel.
Cutoff Wheels are a bit tough to cut curves with, but yeah it could be done.
Speaking of better tools for the job, I just tried out a 400 watt laser today that would have cut right through this in about 10 seconds. I'll be going back for seconds and making a video about it!
And I was told putting 120mm fans on my E3v2 was an overkill. Great intro btw.
The intro is like the adult swim version of CNC kitchen. I love it.
Agreed! Adding a bunch of brown to my Ender 3 was one of the best mods I've done to it.
I heard noctua is coming out with some 24v fans for the 3d printing market. It's gonna be sweet!
@@NathanBuildsRobots That would simplify things *so much*
Buck converters are cheap, but less wires are always welcome!
First channel that immediately has been "Patreon"-ed by me. Keep up the good Ender3 S1 (short ESI) content, and developing "that fann" of yours. :D
PS.: Please, never be normal.... thnks
Thanks Krulay! I will be making a couple different versions of that fan shroud, 40x20 noctua, 5015 blower, 120mm blower, am I missing anything?
@@NathanBuildsRobots I just try to keep up with you, ordering all the necessary equipment to be your gunnie pig guy relating to ESIs :D I will use ASA to print them, 'cause of its UV resistance. The first one is already printed as a tryout from PLA, one not the stl would be nice if orinted in the printing position.
My dream is to make a 12cm Noctua into a cooler in the head (what a nonsense, but fun idea), and also thinking about making a cooling solution, where there is a big cooler is relatively far away from the head, which will be cooled thru a tube. I dont know if pressure and frictions are allowing it, but i like the idea of using something powerful and deliver its stream into the tiny head. A Tube-fun on UA-cam .... See? :D
Man i like your style... I hope/wish you will have the same rising viewcount as 'I did a thing' has since i get to know him. ;)
I'm going to try one of these fans on my OctoPI. I loved the intro!
Nice, there are 5V versions that you can plug directly in to the Raspberry pi either through USB or on the I/O pins
Just subbed, What IC was that - the hot one. So the viewers can opt to put a heatsink on there too. THanks
the one that was in the wire harness was super hot because I was using the wrong size fan
@@NathanBuildsRobots I mean that hot one on the mainboard
Great video! I might think of this when I upgrade from my old ender 3 v2 to a S1, but although your explaination ist grear, it's a whole bunch of work. Especially cutting of the buttom seems like a huge step for me. But a very great video, I loved the beginning :D
Some people just replace the stock fans with quieter versions that are the same size. That is the "smart" way to do it.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Could you drop a link to some?
worthy of a sub, thanks for the info mate.
ok this intro is awesome; to add, this is all more than I am able to do to a printer, but it's really cool to see. I am pretty keen on the Ender S1 and it might be my 2nd printer.. I am still learning on my Ender 3 that we just got fully set up
Thanks! I wish manufacturers would do more with silent fans. I like a quiet machine. It's doubly important for me because it makes it easier to film and record audio when the fans aren't so loud
Noctua are expensive, the stock fans powered at 12-15v are sufficient.
I didn't buy any particular fan and used the stock one with dc dc step down mini bucks.
I've the Ender 3 V2 Neo, and now it's silent without any particular mods, simply I've used Mini 360 bucks on the stock PSU and mainboard fans that I've choosen from 12-15v till obtain low noise and still good airflow. And opened with a cupsaw the power supply cover to have more air flow.
On the hot end I've used a Sunon MF40202V2-1000C-A99 DC 24V 0.68W 40x40x20mm achieved for 21 db. I don't need any other special mods, now my Ender 3 print's well and has very low noise.
I’d love to see this setup with a 5015 blower fan, I literally have like 6 extra just laying around haha
I got you covered www.patreon.com/posts/62368547
"If you go blind, you wouldn't be able to watch my videos anymore" 😂😂😂😂
Great content man. Keep up the great work.
Somewhat of a recurring joke on my channel, that I'm more worried about my view count than your safety 😆
But really, staying safe is more important. So take your time and protect yourself!
Another great video! I think my ender 3 S1 is too precious to me to do a silent fan mod. I am quite the noob at modding and I don't really want to risk breaking it. But I still love the mod!
Is like to make those adapters and sell them. Do you think $15 for a 2 pack is reasonable?
@@NathanBuildsRobots I would pay that.
@@NathanBuildsRobots very
@@NathanBuildsRobots I would be very interested
@@NathanBuildsRobots my ender 3 s1 has arrived few days ago and I wish you sell them.
A: that intro is cinematic art.
B: I did the notcua fan mod to my Fokoos Odin 5 and haven't looked back.
Nice… the giant fan looks awesome and does a great job of cooling things with virtually no noise. Best thing is when you flip your printer on and second guess if you forgot to plug it in or broke it because you don’t hear a thing!
@@NathanBuildsRobots My printer has an annoying *BEEEEEEP* Every time you turn it on. I'm so OCD about the noise that I got some thick foam double sided tape and covered the little black speaker on the board haha.
those blowtorch segments always crack me up haha
Came for the noctua on the S1 mod. Stayed for that into.
I've been using a 40x20 12V noctua for hotend cooling and a 120mm beQuiet (undervolted to 5V) in a custom electronics case and have had zero problems since I've installed them; the coldend has pretty much the same temp as stock (measured by hand) and the raspberry pi and motherboard run at around 35 celsius during prints (measured by klipper firmware). Should get to replacing the stock blower sometime, but procrastination is a strict mistress xD
I've heard the 40x10 noctua is a bit underpowered, cooling-wise, though I haven't verified that claim myself; I just bought the 40x20 since the only good reason for the 10mm thin one is that it's a drop-in replacement for the stock mount (size-wise; you still have to regulate the voltage).
Love the detailed walkthrough, though I personally would recommend using a second DC-DC buck converter instead of the zener. Not that it doesn't work - quite evidently it does - but I just don't like the thought of a passive component just toasting away in a cable somewhere. Again, just a personal recommendation and not a "don't do that" :)
@LordHonklnc Where did you use the 120mm fan?
I am keeping the hotend fan (I cut the stl in mesh mixer and kept only the heatbreak fan). I will be using a gelid fan instead of the noctua... they are 50% cheaper. I will receive it tomorrow, so I will check how it performs...
Apart from the big resonance of the metal body and the Y motor, it is a good machine. The big fan Noctua eliminates no noise..
But after some printing problems, I discovered a difference of 1mm in horizontal on the X axis. So it is to be monitored and corrected for new users.
On your sprite cooling fixture, the fan for the Hot-End looks the same as the standard one?
The loudest is the small 30 mm near the CR-Touch
The beginning of this creeps me out for some reason
🤫
😶
5:50 LOL You're underrated. I just subscribed.
NONONONONO with that power supply cover!
replacing fans is good idea. I would go for 24V (not 12V) as it is easier/faster to install thought a bit more expensive option.
Yeah, I have trouble finding high quality silent 24v fans. I wish Noctua would make some.
@@NathanBuildsRobots is the psu fan also 12v on an s1? In that case, Aerocool makes a 12v 200mm fan with 18dBa noise level. If I wasn't receiving a 60mm and 40mm today for psu and motherboard, I would have bought that instead, after seeing your video...
maybe you could show a picture of the sprite mother board for the wiring? I don't get how you get 3 fans at the end (if you keep the original one on the left side
im here for the Lamb's reference...
oh and i also own noisey beasts
your hysterical!
for the buck converter is there somewhere you can have me look for a better idea on how to get it done. i get that you install it right off the psu just curious how. i have not popped mine open yet so haven't a clue. parts are in the mail because jesus is that psu fan driving me crazy.
I am a fan of this channel
But are you a big fan or a little fan? Both are welcome BTW
120 mm Blower fan!!!! YES!
Ok, I'll make a 120mm version. But why would you need that?
lmao that intro was great! thanks for the tutorial too
You have a unique styleee! Nice videeo! Saludos desde Chile. (sorry my english haha)
Yes, Machu Pichu!
Oh shit. Machu Pichu is in Peru!
Go Chileeee!! 🇨🇱 🌶 🇨🇱 🌶
These video's are very helpful. Subscribed.
I'm here to help!
The zener diode is so a dumb idea that I subbed
Trust me, you're in store for a lot more dumb ideas.
I shorted out one of my fan plugs and burnt a PCB trace, then fixed it by soldering a tiny wire onto it.
@@NathanBuildsRobots so you're telling me that I have landed in the right place? Nice!
Absolutely love the intro lol
You should at least not cover that zener diode so it can more effectively dissipate the heat. They should not be operating close to 100c
Using zener diodes to stepdown is horribly inefficient as the heat generated=(12v)*current. both 40x10, and 40x20 fans are pulling 0.5A based on label, hence the zener diode needs to dissipate 0.6w of heat. It is like if you used a 24ohm resistor there. Buck converters are a much better option or wire fans in series.
So that footage was when i was using a 4020 noctua fan with 2 parallel 150W 1/4w resistors for an equivalent 75 ohms of resistance. It was overvolting the fan and the tiny resistors were not dissipating enough heat.
2nd try was with zener diode with leads trimmed short on a 4020 noctua fan, with 2 layers of shrink tube around it. Still was getting very hot amd melted the other wire it was next to.
3rd try is 12v zener diode with leads left long (they act like little heatsinks and spread the heat out) and running a 4010 fan which uses 1/2 the power, with only 1 layer of shrink tube around the diode, and a couple layers around the wire next to it as shown in my install. Also I tucked the extra wire & diode I to the empty spot where the old blower fan was, so it's being actively cooled at least a little bit by the 4010 fan.
It's running at 36C now, which I'm pretty sure it's OK.
What do you think about the motherboard temps? It's a bit hotter than stock but is it enough to worry about?
I never knew that 1 or 2 watts could get something over 150C before this, but hey I learned something new!
OOOOOHHHH WAIT
The 4020 fan I was using was a 5V version. Which explains why it was pushing so much air at 12v! It was outperforming the stock fan and was just about as loud!
Thanks for bringing this up, would not have caught that if I didn't take another look at my fans.
@@NathanBuildsRobots oh, that more reassuring, I thought you were running it with the diode above 100c. Theoretically, infinite temps can be achieved as long as the input power exceeds power dissipated, hence I was telling you to leave out the insulation around the diode.
Your Mobo temp is perfectly reasonable. Most semiconductor run around 40-80 without any issues. Higher temps can significantly decrease life probably due to a combination of increasing electromigration and causing thermal migration of dopants.
Also surprised that the 5v fan didn't get fried at 12v. Looks like they are well built.
Love your videos, keep up the good work!
I am using 7812 voltage regulator for my Noctua 40x10 12V fan.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Now I am a big confused, in the video you had the 12v zener measured 150C, was that heat due to the fact you put a 5V fan there (V 0,25W)?
Because both the Noctua 10 and 20mm are having the same Watt, 0,6W at 0,05A.
If I install as you did in the video but using the 12V (Noctua 40x20mm), will the heat be under control on the zener?
Great overview of what goes into this modification! I just installed a Sprite Pro kit on my V2 so I'm not sure if the same fans will work, but I want to figure out something eventually cause the Sprite hotend is actually louder than the V2 one.
The sound that my S1 pro makes is crazy. Just the fans. I need to replace them. I would like to see another video for the pro version, maybe more updated with links to buy the thinks we need. That would be awsome.
The fan replacement process should be very similar for the Pro, but I may do another episode on S1 Pro fan replacement. It won't be out until next month, but it should be interesting.
At higher speeds the Y axis on my Pro is loud compared to the normal S1, almost to the point where the fan noise doesnt matter.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Thank you for your work! I will wait, and I will share the video in this facebook group that are s1/s1 pro owners only. This would be very helpful. (P.S. if possible, try with less crazy thing, cutting the bottom so mutch and cutting original cables, are very scary things to see)
I'm lazy and incompetent, I'm just going to wait for noctua to bring out their 24V 40mm fans :P
They have a little adapter right now. But I think the problem for them is they don't want to develop a product unless they can sell it for 10+ years. All of their PC products will always be useful, but who knows - 3D printer modding might just be a flash in the pan. Hard for them to make a business case for it I imagine.
@@NathanBuildsRobots it’s already on the roadmap, they ARE releasing 24V 40mm fans, just in typical Noctua fashion they are taking their sweet time (I’m ALSO waiting on their long delayed new 140mm for my PC 😛)
this intro is just next level :D haha
These get better and better each time. I just put one of these bad boys on my Aquila and a SKR Mini 3.0. Too bad nothing happened when I turned it on…not sure what I did wrong yet.
A multimeter is great for checking to see if your wires are done correctly, if the fan is seeing 12v it will turn on! Just remember , positive to yellow, negative to black.
Thanks. I just got a multimeter and have yet to try it out. I don’t think the fan is the issue. They don’t boot up with the board on the 3.0. The stock board fried when the hot end hit the bed. So both the fan and the board are new. This should be a drop in for the Aquila X2 but nothing powered up. I probably did something wrong. But hey I didn’t see sparks or smoke, so any crash you can walk away from right?
@@jpsfish5966Damm, how did you run the hotend into the bed? That shouldn't be possible!
I'm a bit confused here. You replaced the bottom motherboard fan and power supply fan with 1 big fan situated in the center at the bottom? I mean that would explain why the temperature was higher on the motherboard because you're no longer blowing air directly on top of it.
But what Im confused about the most here is the actual reduction in sound for all this work? Judging by your graph, it looks like this new setup is even louder than the stock fans at 100%. Your chart doesnt show fan speed % for stock fans, so I assume that those bars are indicating the stock fans at 100%? How loud is the printer when stock fans are at 30% vs the new fans?
Good questions, unfortunately I can't answer with real data since my printer is already modified, but I can answer with how I "feel" about it.
With the part cooling fan off using the old setup, it was only 2-3 dB quieter since the rest of the fans are quite loud.
With the new fan at 100% it is providing about 4x more part cooling power than the stock setup, so while it is louder, it is also providing better cooling and print quality.
With the fan set to ~20% I can't hear it at all and the part cooling is as good or better than the stock setup at 100%. Plus now I have the option to crank up the fans to get really good 75 degree overhang performance if I need it.
@@NathanBuildsRobots thanks for clarifying that. So it seems this is more of cooling mod to achieve better preformance rather than a sound reducing/slitent mod. I'm just building an enclosure now for my s1 and planning out everything and was wondering if I should do this setup, but it was throwing a wrench in my design as it required extra bottom clearance for the big fan and that means a taller case and more plexiglass I would need. I think I'll skip the bottom upgrades, but may end up doing the extruder fan upgrade if I find heat being a problem down the line.
@@007craft I am also testing a version with a 40mm noctua fan as the cooling fan. I will release that model as a free download on my patreon/thingiverse on the 28th
you can get noctua redux fans which are grey and cheaper because they only come with the fan and a set of screws instead of all the adapters
loving these mod videos!
That new mount for fans looks great, i saw u swapped the heaterblock and maybe even heatbreak. What are u running?
I did the install here. Though if I were to do it again I'd use the slice engineering heatbreak, whi h should fit in without using a hacksaw.
And if I wanted to do it the easiest way, I'd use the slice heatbreak and a mk8 CHT or stock nozzle, and keep the old heater block.
ua-cam.com/video/YrIYvhOGAs4/v-deo.html
Thanks for such a good video.
Thanks for putting it in the basket!
lol that intro, first time on your channel. insta sub
Wow. I can't believe how quiet this makes my Ender 3 S1. Nathan you are AWESOME. Thank you so much. I do have a question for you though.......I notice when I am printing...if I have a light plugged into the same surge strip, I see flicker in the light. Do I need a better surge strip? A better power supply in the printer? Or should I get a UPS to try and isolate the conducted emissions coming off the printer?
It's common for LED lights to be very sensitive to voltage fluctuations.
So I would say its normal, as long as you are not overloading it. Most surge stops are good for over 800 watts.
I'm glad the mods helped!
Hi, probably too late to help, but my Ender 3 S1 did this because the switchable PSU was set to 240v from the factory. I flipped the switch to 120v, and the flickering went away.
Heyo! I'm trying to do this and sorry I'm slow but at one point you seem to be using a 40x20 noctua and then at the end it looks like a 40x10? Which one are you using for the hot end cooling? Also are you leaving the original fan located on the left side of the extruder assembly?
Either will work. The 40x20 fan I later realized was a 5 volt variant, so it was drawing too much current.
I took out the original mini fan
Have you let prints run for a long time using this setup?
I ask because I have a similar setup (slightly different design) using 2x 4020 Sunon Maglev axial fans (One for hotend and one for part cooling), and heat creep inevitably sets in for any print longer than 60 mins in duration.
Upon further reading Noctua NF-A4X10 has a lower CFM than the Sunon fan. However, the Noctua provides higher static pressure. Can you advise please?
Great video as always Nathan.
I didn't have any issues. The way I designed this it provides much more cooling than some others I have looked at. The fan recirculates air against the parts its up against, in addition to pushing air through the heatsink.
I've since swapped the hotend over to using an entirely different printhead (Microswiss NG)
@NathanBuildsRobots I'll try a few setups. Thanks for your reply.
Why is there smoke coming out of the hole near the main board at 6:08?
Edit: it might just be a bit of glue string.
Yeah exactly. Pretty sure it’s just some hot glue strands
you should do a comparison with the upgraded printer and an original ender with non silent stepper drivers
Non-silent stepper drivers? Never again...
masterpiece
THanks. Nice work. Isn´t good idea use a zenner. Maybe was good use a 7812 IC Regulator. More disipation, less hot
if i buy a 24v 40mm noctua fan for the extruder can i just wire it up to positive and negative? or do i still have to solder in a resistor
Yes correct
Isnt that molex picoblade? Not JST
Nathan really looks like a cyborg or a humanoid when he was sitting near the printer
Silence human!
@@NathanBuildsRobots 🤐👍
@@robotogamer7220 jk I’m also human
I had a HeroMe set up on my E3P and all Noctua except part cooling which used 2 5015s. I just got a sprite, and it is LOUD! But, I don't know how I feel about modding the Sprite yet... I really need to build another machine. Like the eyeballs!
The side cutters are not even made for that work you have used then, no wonder they breake, they are only for cutting electronics small wires and legs from resistors and similar work, use propper tools for the work and they hold much longer.
I consider the clippers I was using as "borderline acceptable" for the job, with safety glasses as necessary precaution. They are high-quality American made cutter that can probably make 1,000 - 10,000 cuts before breaking, which is better than most tools you get at a hardware store.
The ones that come with the printer are too thin and would break in 10-100 cuts and are definitely a no-go.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I cut a thicker piece plastic with a side cutters I thought it could be done, but than the one blade snapped and was flying in my direction, it's always better to wear saefty glasse. 😬
@@WaschyNumber1 quality control is extremely important for tools subject to repetitive high stresses, like cutters.
Simple mistakes in processing can result in a loss of 90% or more of its strength.
Fantastic video, thank you very much! Why don't you put one (or two) buck converter(s) from 24v to 12v between the motherboard and the wire into the case?
I figured the always on approach is more failsafe than running it through the motherboard. There might be cases where the PSU is on and drawing lots of power, but the motherboard fan is off (like when heating up the bed at the start of a print).
nice video! going for it asap, do you keep the fan on the left side of the sprite? I don't understand where to plug 2 fan if you do keep the one on the left could you explain that to me? my English isn't that good so I might not have understood something in the video! good job anyway!
Yes, you can remove the left side fan. Also, if you join the discord you can ask about other fan mods for the hotend. There are some good options out there that aren’t by me
Could you make the 5015 fan version ? :)
Yes
www.patreon.com/posts/62368547
I have six ender 3 pro, and they have all been running with blocked power supply fans since day 1 to remove the incredibly loud noise. I yanked a zip tie into the fan to stop it spinning. Problem solved.
Lol, nice
@@NathanBuildsRobots for two years, Nate, and we are running ABS parts at high Heat = high load on the power supply...
@@cp001cp001 I wonder if the vertical power supply mounting is helping keep things cool even without the fan.
Awesome video! I just subbed.🤘 Love nocta fans on my PC looking to get an ender S1 and do this.
Nice. Good luck and be careful!
120mm fans or bust!
Did you created at the end the version with 2 5015? i am interested in thankyou
I have not yet. I'm working on a new breakout board PCB for the Ender 3 S1, I'll be designing some new fan mounts for that soon.
Are we able to get the raw pcb sent to us from China? Your site doesn't ship globally, and the price of coming from the US would be a lot
Hi Nom,
I am operating more like a niche product development firm, where I offer high quality goods that are professionally assembled and tested. The proceeds go towards paying off development costs and funding more innovative products.
I am in contact with distributors that may be able to offer discounts and local shipping rates once I enter full-rate production in December.
LOVE!
Just recently picked up an Ender3S1
First thing I started doing was googling and youtubing mods lol
I tried to follow your patreon link to pay/get the print file for this but the link is broken :(
It's working for me
www.patreon.com/posts/62156070
ugh.
Am I really expected to take a shot every time you say zener diode?
It must be an Ender thing.
I know I said zener diode a lot... but it's a cool word! I feel like I'm on the USS Enterprise every time I say it.
@@NathanBuildsRobots lol
I think I might try a different approach. No matter what fan you use, forcing air into those tiny ducts is hugely inefficient, there has to be a better way. An aquarium pump (high grade pro models) can provide nice useable volume of air, so all I have to do is design either a manifold to direct air to 2 (or more) nozzles, or an air handler that lets the air escape in an annulus around the nozzle for 360 degree cooling. Air volume would be controlled by remote mounted servo controlled valves interfaced to appear to the firmware as normal fans, probably via an Arduino. Once the manifold is in place, all the printhead has to carry in terms of added load is a length of silicone tubing supported at the top near the filament carrier mount.
A lot of people use 24v compressor pumps from massage and car chairs with inflatable bolsters and stuff. Look up "Berd air"
@@NathanBuildsRobots Very cool. I figured something must be out there. Still, I'd be inclined to use a premium aquarium air pump. Thanks.
Really good video and I already started with the part cooling fan and already saw some huge improvements but my question is what did you do with the old cooling fan for the hot end did you just leave it in there unplugged or what happened with that
I removed it so it doesn't impede the airflow, but you could probably leave it in there.
If i left it in, I would consider running it and the noctua fan at 12v in parallel, with the 2nd noctua flow direction reversed so they arent fighting, if you catch my drift.
Zener Diode = "Zeeeeeener Diode".
I added just the parts fan only version and I'm having issues with the fan not coming on/ not coming on full power because of the extruder motor. Did u have this problem? I'm using the fan from your parts list
Yes I had that issue. Which version are you using? The issue was documented in the 5015, but I posted a fixed version.
Is it the 4020 blower? I might need to modify that one too, moving the fan upwards
Will a 1W Zenner diode work instead of a 5W like you’re using? My NF-A4x20 Noctua fan has a max input power of 0.6W.
Probably, I just like using the larger ones because they run slightly cooler
I don't get the graph at 7:43
What does fans at 100% mean? Is that just the part cooling fan or the others too? Why is it noisier than stock?
All fans are turned on for those tests.
The 100% setting is louder than stock, but it is moving about 5-10x more air.
A fair comparison in terms of equivalent part cooling performance is stock vs 10% on new fans.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Thanks
Wow!
Hi, from the video it seems that you're controlling the hotend fan speed somehow. But as I understand, only the part cooling fan has pwm control. Can you elaborate on this?
thanks for the perfect guide! A question regarding the height of the air flow, should it be directed exactly at the tip of the nozzle, or more higher at the nozzle (ie just below the heat block)?
I go for just below the heater block. IMO half of the air should hit in front of the printed area and half should go behind, so you get more even results at different directions.
I just got my printer and printed another print head with the two jets mainly cos it reminded me of an octopus :D and I was put off by the 150 degrees, I'm so glad that is not an issue for the 12v fan. While it does indeed look cool, now when I print anything with infill I have pan pipes... And I can't add the side fan. Other than that the difference over the stock is so significant. Are the dual jets better/worse or the same in terms of output? Or does the fan improvement mean that it is now so over powered it doesn't matter?
The link on Thingiverse for the feet.. to buy the squash balls.. goes to an M2 screw set instead. Might need to update that. What size squash balls did you use?
Squash balls should all be the same size. You want the softest ones, which should be double yellow dot.
When I do amazon search get all sorts of squash balls and sizes. A link to one you know fits and works well would be better.
I have purchased these for 4 of my printers, works every time!
amzn.to/3tIpG8K (affiliate link)
Your bolts in the part list above go to an m2 set. Will those work?
The Amazon listing got changed, I updated it to a new M3 set.
When you will make video with improvements of S1 Pro? :-) And really nice videos!
Hi nathan
I saw picture : yellow wire ( from noctua fan) connect to diode. Is it right? Yellow wire of noctua control speed.
Hi Khoi, in my experience with Noctua fans, yellow is positive, black is ground. Blue/green are PWM wires. Other manufacturers assign yellow to PWM sometimes.
Check out this article by Noctua:
noctua.at/en/what-pin-configuration-do-noctua-products-use
Isnt that creality is jst-sh 1mm?
I am likely just going to replace each fan directly for the power supply and motherboard to start.
I got a screencap of the motherboard fan (CHA6024RL-15B 24V 0.10A), but not the power supply fan.
If you still have it kicking around, can you let me know what part it is? Thanks!
I haven't looked at my S1 in a while, been tied up getting a couple reviews made. But I will be looking at my S1 hopefully in a couple weeks and I can check.
The diode seems quite inefficient, why not one of those poststamp size dc step down converters? Would be cool to see a design that fits a MP1584EN converter on the model
Why not just use a 40x20mm 24v fan? That seems like the easiest solution to me unless I'm missing something.
Hi Nathan, just another question.
Do u know if you can regulate the Hotend Fan per voltage or pwm? I use Klipper if this matters (which I can really recommend its awsome)
Or do I need to use a buck converter or have to find a free port on the mainboard?
Yes, I think so. But the motherboard and PSU fans are on full blast as soon as you turn the machine on.
You probably mentioned it, but is the old hotend fan still there, but diconnected?
Hi Nathan, great video and i’m using your design with a 5015 fan. For the hotend fan i’m using a ultra small buck converter and all works well. I was wondering if you could share the step file so i can make an addition to hold the converter. Greetings from René from the Netherlands.
I have shared the F3D file on my Patreon. These can be opened in Fusion 360
www.patreon.com/posts/69426214
Let me know if you can access them
I saw they have the option of the silent board upgrade on their website. Does that mean it doesn't come with a silent board as standard?
All S1 printers come with silent stepper driver boards
I don't dare touch the electronics. I'm just too stupid for that. Do you have any tips for me?
I would like to make a simple adapter like the one i made in this video and sell them on my website.
That you can just plug 1 side into the fan port and the other side into the noctua fan. I really wish 3d printers would move to the ATX standard, like what computers use. That way there would be standardized pins and connectors, and easier upgrades.