Building the MicroShop, Part 4
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- Building the @One Minute Workbench MicroShop, Part 4. In this video, we cover the material support arm, mounting electrical boxes, and the board splitter.
Buy the plans: oneminuteworkb...
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MicroShop Features Video: • All-in-One Portable Wo...
Make a track saw WITHOUT a table saw: • How to Make a Saw Trac...
Building the MicroShop, Part 1: • Building the MicroShop...
Building the MicroShop, Part 2: • Building the MicroShop...
Building the MicroShop, Part 3: • Building the MicroShop...
Building the MicroShop, Part 4: • Building the MicroShop...
Building the MicroShop, Part 5: • Building the MicroShop...
Building the MicroShop, Part 6: • Building the MicroShop...
Building the MicroShop, Part 7: • Building the MicroShop...
Building the MicroShop, Part 8: • Building the MicroShop...
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Twitter: @oneminworkbench
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Music:
Feels Like I'm Going Crazy by Tigerblood Jewel
I Think You Better by Tigerblood Jewel
Let's GoGoGo by Tigerblood Jewel
Be My Woman by Conditional - Навчання та стиль
Hi Tommy, the conduit in the UK comes threaded at both ends, fit a coupling on the thread behind the square blocks (3:25) to prevent the support arms from dropping out
Really enjoy this series 👍 great job 😊
This is brilliant and you should be proud of yourself.
Thank you, Jeremy!
I'm loving this so far! I'm primarily a hand tool woodworker, but I've been considering some electrical tools like a table saw. This looks like it would fit the bill, and save me some over buying a real table saw.
One possible suggestion: if you made the upper screw holding the splitter a pin, you could very easily fold back the splitter without having to uninstall it. If you're making non-through cuts, that would be a little bit faster, and with a little less temptation to just keep working without it.
I like the way the project is evolving, and it provides lots of ideas for a customized build! Good job!
Great work, Tommy. Really enjoying this build.
Thank you - I'm glad you're digging it!
GOOOOOOOOOOOOOODDDDDDDDD
🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂
Thanks for the video, wonderful job! Great designs btw!
Thank you!
Great work.
Thank you, Shawn!
GREAT VIDEO....THANKS
Thank you!
genius.
That riving knife (board splitter) is not sufficient. It is way too far away from the blade. What you've built is cool, but it's dangerous af. And not in a California sense, but it a real "kickbacks are going to happen and hurt people" sense.
Very nice and creative. I was just wondering if the splitter isn't too far from the blade, giving a piece of wood the chance to close up before it gets to the splitter.... Just a thought...
Nice ideas, but the splitter is way too far away from the blade.
What drill bit did you use to drill that tempered hard steel blade? Or are such saw blades soft steal and only the teeth are hardened?
I used HSS (high speed steel) bits, and pretty good ones. That said, I've drilled metal with the cheapest bits I have, and I have yet to not be able to drill a hole. In a worse case scenario, it might dull the bit, but if it's a cheap bit, no big deal. I'm not sure if the blade is hardened, or just the teeth, but either way it wasn't too hard to drill/cut. Using a fresh hacksaw blade is key though. Anyway, I hope this helps!
Muito bom, Barra do Piraí Rio de Janeiro, Brasil
Thank you very much!
👍👍👍супер.
Each episode you put up gets better and better. This is a great series and I like how you break the construction method down so it is very clear.
Thank you - I'm glad you're enjoying the series!
Great job Tommy, fun following this build along
Well, I told my wife that building the project was work, but it is fun work that pays for itself.
Thanks 🙂
I love how creative you are to build those elements with simple tools, that's really the best about your channel. I'm not planning to build the shop as is but I'll definitely use a lot of your ideas to build mine. Thanks for the great content.
Thank you, and good luck with your build!
Very nice now all you need is micro dust collection :)
This is so cool. I might just have to tackle this project one day even though i have the tools already. Can't wait for the next video.
I have to say, I love this and your ingenuity. Do you ever worry about kickback , even with the diy splitter? Your track saw idea I’m going to copy next. I’d love a table saw and the convenience etc it would add, I just struggle with the safety factor with this approach.
Anyway, I otherwise love the videos, editing, sound quality etc. It’s well put together... great content, cheers.
Thanks! As far as kickback goes, you should ALWAYS be cautious about kickback, and take measures to prevent it, EVEN IF you have anti-kickback devices. John Heisz does a great serious on using an old school table saw that was built before riving knifes and splitters were a thing. He shows the old school techniques for avoiding kickback. So splitters and knives should be thought of as a bonus or backup, but technique should be thought of as the main safety feature. I hope this helps!
When the Zombie apocalypse hits, I want to be in your camp.
John Chan hahaha same!
😂 All will be welcome....except for the zombies, of course 🧟♀️ 🧟♂️
One Minute Workbench hahah
I'm absolutely loving this. I have a potentially stupid question, though; I've watched the videos 3 times and read the plans through twice, just to make sure I know what I'm doing before I start (I'm also waiting to start until all of the videos are out, so I'll have seen the whole thing first), and the one thing I don't get is, for safety reasons, why doesn't the board splitter come before the fence and miter gauge? It seems to me there isn't any need for the fence or the miter to make the splitter support, and those are a lot of cuts with a naked "old school" style saw. Am I missing something? (I'm also thinking I'll skip the removable throat plate since I'll likely never angle the blade in order to fit a longer splitter closer to the saw. I'll have to buy a small plate of steel rather than use an old blade, but that's fine with me as it's safer and besides, I don't have an old blade I wouldn't rather hang onto.)
As you know, I've already answer this via email, but I'll answer it again here for anybody that's reading it: I just made the splitter after the fence and miter gauge because it's easier to make all the small components necessary once the fence and miter gauge have been built. Feel free to extend the splitter so that it is closer to the blade - should be fine. Skipping the throat plate is also fine, just make sure you add the screws that go down through the top, into the metal of the saw's base. This is because the temporary ones (that go through the base into the wood) will eventually fail. Finally, check out John Heisz's series on using a table saw without a splitter/knife. It's really good to understand the techniques of safely using a saw, even if you have safety devices installed. Anyway, for all y'all reading this, I hope this helps!
This is utter genius but I can't watch any more. Bloody Music !!!!!!!
Its called a Riving knife... Were did you get the name board splitter from?
Board splitters predate riving knives...they generally refer to an upright piece behind the blade, whereas a riving knife curves around the blade. I would’ve liked to make a true riving knife for this build but couldn’t see how to do it at the outset. I’ve got one that’s pretty close at this point though, and that’ll be the subject of an upcoming video. I hope this helps!
Only in North America!... but please don't let that distract you from a job really well done.
I'm really enjoying this build series even though I probably won't make one. It's very educational to watch and ingest the ideas and problem solving going on here, especially the progressive improvements that are part of the build process. That's clever stuff.
Have you considered using a heavier gauge of metal for the splitter? At 11:52 you can see right down the splitter and the blade, which made me think the splitter is well aligned to the right side of the blade but is shy of the left side. Given that there is some distance between the blade and the splitter, you might be able to clear the splitter and still have internal tension cause a bind. I'm just eyeballing all this - no math or science here.
Thanks again.
Thank you - I'm glad you're enjoying the series! The blade and the splitter are actually perfectly aligned on both sides. I think what you're referring to is just a camera trick. It's pretty difficult to get the camera EXACTLY centered with the center plane of the shot. Watch it again and you'll notice that the camera is slightly to the left of center. You can tell because you can actually see the left side of the blade splitter (if you look closely), and not the right side at all. If it was perfectly centered, you'd only see the tiny rear edge of the blade splitter. Because the camera is off to the left, and the splitter is closer to the camera than the saw blade, it makes the splitter look further to the right than it actually is. Does that make sense? Anyway, I hope this helps!
@@OneMinuteWorkbench That absolutely makes sense- thanks for clearing it up.
that boar splitter could be better though, for one it's not as thick as the blade, so you will still get some pinching, it's also not height adjustable, which is more of a problem when making rabbit cuts. Still better than nothing though.
Your are one of the best and I just like to say I have two power bar with 7 elect. tools I can plug in and I can turn each power tool off still I can use the other power (Tripp Lite 7 Outlet (6 Individually Controlled) Surge Protector Power Strip, 6ft Cord, Lifetime Limited Warranty & Dollar 25K INSURANCE (TLP76MSG) from Amazon. I really appreciate your video, I love it
Thank you!
I am not sure that I would want my switch recessed in case I need to do an emergency stop. Do you plan to put a STOP lever on it?
Have a look at the completed project in the features video. Here's a link: ua-cam.com/video/yIOhdHGaB9g/v-deo.html I hope this helps!
@@OneMinuteWorkbench It does help and I am glade to see the lever.
You already know that I am enthusiastic, so I will just add a comment to boost your community engagement stats.
Thank you, Robert!
I have a couple of questions. Would using MDF instead of plywood make any difference? Is the plywood you are using standard big store grade (HomeDepot, Lowes)? I think I'd try to add a vise, but it looks like a great project to tackle next spring.
I would not recommend using MDF because it is heavy and prone to soaking up moisture. The plywood I used is Baltic Birch, and not something you'd typically find at Home Depot or Lowes. I'd recommend using nothing less than Baltic Birch, and anything "marine grade" should be great as well. You can find these types of plywoods at hardwood stores or old school lumber stores. I hope this helps!
Isn't the riving knife very far away from the blade?
Building this is going to be a dream come true for me. Just need the circular saw.
One of the best wood working poor man projects out there. I'm getting the plans and trying this. Not everyone can afford the usual equipment but I can use the individual tools I have to make this work station and do all my little projects and more with ease. It's perfect for home repairs and improvement projects as well as any other projects for wood working....
Thank you so much for the wonderful compliment, and your patronage! Keep me posted on your progress - I'd love to see how your build turns out!
Tommy Man, this is gonna be my workshop near as like yours, this is a great project, if I can I'll by the plans, but definitly your style is top pro Man. Love your Channel. That the Allmighty Creator Keep blessing you Man. Greetings from South America.
Thank you very much!
Hello Sir, I want to know the dimension of the table you built. The height, width and length. I always like to watch your selfless sharing of talent. God Bless
Love this build, mine is going to be done next week. Had to make a special part to raise and lower and tilt the tablesaw motor I'm building mine around. One question; why not use a dovetail bit to route the bottoms of the mitre channels to stop sawdust compaction in the channels them selves from extended use?
Thank you, Grar! I can't wait to see your build, and the mods you've made! Routing the bottom edges outward could help with sawdust, although I haven't found it to be much of a problem. Since the miter gauge isn't locked in, it's pretty easy to remove and blow the dust out. Either way, it does sound helpful - thanks for sharing that idea!
With regards to the support arms, is there a reason you didn't cut the holes for them when you made that face?
Pretty nice job, dude! Really nice! 😃
Thank you!
Another fantastic video. This project is absolutely amazing! Thank you for taking it step-by-step!
Nice after part 4 I bought the plan now need to source the materials and convert those measurement to metric :D
There’s already metric plans included with your download links...just look for the files that say “metric version”. I hope this helps!
@@OneMinuteWorkbench cool thanks I haven't really go through the plan yet good to know
EDIT: I just looked at my email saw the link to the metrics one! I downloaded both for safekeepig
You could also leave the threaded ends on the conduit and once you put them into the cabinet install conduit couplings to make stops.
Great Video 👏👏👌🏻👍
Thank you, Chris!
Super...👍👍👍
Cool shirt! Must have!
Second! Also I have a question....why do you use plywood so often instead of milling lumber as required?
@Aaron King he's trying to make this thing using only the tools available in the micro shop.
I don't know his reason, but mine is that plywood is more stable, more apt to be flat, comes with a straight factory edge, and if stained it is less likely to have variations in color, and primarily it has no knots to mess with and worry about. Dimensional lumber is prone to warping, wracking, twisting, having dog legs, splits, and is faster to work with when the deadline looms. Boards are wonderful to look at, but after 30 years of carpentry, today a sheet of plywood is a god send.
Aaron, Derek is correct in that the goal for this project was to build it without using my larger shop tools, just to prove that it could be done. So that excludes my jointer and planer. And Grar is also correct in that plywood (especially high quality plywood like Baltic Birch or Marine Grade) is MUCH more stable than wood. Plywood is an engineered structural product and maintains its dimensions very well over time. When it comes to building shop tools and jigs, it's they way to go. I hope this helps!
Loving these videos and looking forward to purchasing the plans when the videos are all released. (And when the weather warms up.)
Thanks, Phillip! I know you're waiting for all the videos...better get comfy...there's a lot more to come yet!
@@OneMinuteWorkbench How many videos do you think there will be?
Don't quote me, but I'm guessing about 10 total. That's based on how much footage I have, and on my experience of how many hours of raw video turns into how many minutes of final video. There's lots of little details that I want to cover for this project, since it is (at least a little) more complex than most of the stuff I do. I just want to make sure I'm doing a good job of covering it. Keep doing what you're doing though - don't be in a rush to buy the plans...I'll keep plugging away at these videos, and before you know it, they'll all be posted. I appreciate you hanging in there!
I love these kind of DIY power tool builds to start a shop. Kudos on the splitter for safety! I started from one done on DIY Creators. I saved up & decided on a 14" bandsaw to mill lumber. I use hand tools mostly so I don't have the dust and noise. I took apart my table saw build, but it was a great start.
Thanks, Tom - I'm glad you dig it! Thanks also for sharing about your own build. I haven't seen the table saw from DIY Creators, but I'll check it out!
Y
Diggin the "Micro shop". looks super clean and functional.
Thanks homie! For anybody reading this, Zack is a personal friend of mine and really interesting guy. Check out his channel - dude builds boats!
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رائع
How tall are the saw horses?
If I remember correctly, I think they're about 23". By the way, your name looks familiar...I think you bought the plans. If you did, feel free to email me with any other questions you have for a faster response. I tend to get backed up on responding to the comments here. I hope this helps!
Could you please use an nvr switch?
It was cheaper to build my own paddle switches, but if you're willing to spend the money, there are lots of options on the market. I hope this helps!
@@OneMinuteWorkbench an NVR switch costs around 3 to 5 bucks( where i live) so it not a huge cost, compared to power tools that are included in the MicroShop
Everything I found (on Amazon) was a minimum of $10, and those looked difficult to wire (they were made to plug into specific tools). The better looking ones (looked easier to wire) were all at least $15. So that would have added $30-$45 to the project versus about $10 (which is approximately what I spent on paddle switches). If I had a good source for cheaper (and high quality) paddle switches, I would have certainly done that. $3-5 sounds like a good deal - I say go for it!
Great Job looks good.
Thank you!
Freaking awesome!👍
Thanks!
It just dawned on me, you make this with simple tools, yet you have a pneumatic gun. What's simple about that? Try making things without that handy tool.
It's doable without, but MUCH faster with the gun. I'd still consider it to be pretty simple though...it was only $20 at Harbor Freight, and the compressor was $30 off of craigslist. All-in-all, not a bad deal for something that has so much usefulness. Anyway, cheers!
So why laminating the support arm with multiple sheets instead of two pieces of plywood? Just using what you have?
Yes...using (4) 1/4" pieces instead of (2) 1/2" pieces because there is more 1/4" available. It saves you from having to buy another sheet of 1/2".
Please stop doing that clap thing at the end it is cringey and way too loud
Who doesn't love the clap? 🤣
You could just pause at the very end
edit: like I do. Sorry Tommy
😂 no worries!
@@OneMinuteWorkbench i guess we got 2 sorry too
@@OneMinuteWorkbench maybe you could replace the clap audio with a laser sound, like from PowerPoint