5:45.....Thank you!! Was starting to get ants in my pants and then you dropped that cam in the crack and.......Relief LOL!! Great video and awesome climbing! And that run out at the top.... Great job!!! Really enjoyed the video :)
@Jon, yeah, I pushed that runout (5:45) a bit more than I probably needed. I was just trying to reduce the potential of rope drag. But, in that upper section (20:50 | 28:33) there is no avoiding it. Easy climbing, (5.4) up beautiful dikes...but by far the longest runout(s) I've ever done. Easily had 40-50 feet of rope out. Just glad the climbing was cruiser. Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks again for sharing your stoke!
What a great video, and that looks like *such* a fun climb! You definitely seemed to encounter the Three Scary Rs of trad multi-pitch: run outs, rope drag, and route finding!
@@sullycrashers It's a good one. P1's boulder problem at the start and then the move from the wide lie-back onto the "ear" were the cruxes for me. I had a stronger partner that day and he took the leads. Following allowed me to just really enjoy the climbing. So, I feel pretty lucky having experienced America's first 5.9 in that style first. Just pure climbing. I shall return soon for the leads though!
@@KlaasicAdventureWe were checking out the main formation areas. This was only our second time at the Leap. I live about an hour away so I'll be tearing it up once I get my cams. I only have sport gear and nuts, so I was limited to routes on Hogsback. Great fun.
@@KlaasicAdventure Just an update after watching this again. The Caldor Fire burned out the Leap on August 17th - also destroyed my house and my town of Grizzly Flat. We are geared up now and are climbing the Pillar on the 4th. Looking forward to it. Thanks for all the beta, bro!
@@ananda_miaoyin so sorry to hear about your home. Nature can be so rewarding and so brutal in the same hand. But, glad you're getting out and having fun despite that. I'm stoked you were stoked enough to come back and let me know! It's the 6th now. Sooo...how did ya like it!?!? Do tell!
This looks beyond cool. As a typical indoor plastic puller, would you suggest taking classes on trad, anchor building, etc.. for someone that doesn’t know anyone that could teach me. I live in Cali and feel like I’m missing out on all this goodness. 😅 any advice is greatly appreciated!
Hey @Catsaur! There are a lot of different ways to approach entry into trad climbing. However, I am a strong advocate in finding a certified outdoor guide who can teach you the skills necessary to feel confident. The easiest way to do this is to find an outdoor area you'd like to climb at. Then, research the local guiding companies that guide in that area. If you spend a day with the guide, you will not only get to climb some cool stuff, but you'll learn some valuable skills and get a better understanding of the process. All-in-all, the topics that are most important to the safety of trad climbing are anchor building, anchor cleaning, leading, and self-rescue. Personally, I decided to get guided instruction for each topic. It was worth its weight in gold because it gave me confidence. Trad climbing can be mentally demanding at times. But, if you trust your knowledge, gear, and systems; you will likely have more fun. Learning this stuff isn't hard. It's actually super fun to spend a day with a guide. What part of California are you based out of? Maybe I can recommend an area and/or guide service? Also, here are a couple Instagram channels that I really enjoy. (@thecodybradford, @daleremsberg)
@@KlaasicAdventure I'm based in the south bay area Norcal. The two locations that come to mind are Tahoe and Yosemite. We also have guides at Castle Rock State Park and in the Berkeley Hills, so I've got some options given how popular climbing is here. I totally agree with your sentiments, I think I'll feel a lot safer having comprehensive classes on everything.
@@catsaur Awesome! Yeah, you've got some great options. Actually, when I was climbing in Lover's Leap (when I filmed this), I met Petch from Lover's Leap Guides. We were both toping out on our routes at the same time. The guy is super mellow and I had some good conversations with him. If you find yourself wanting to climb Lover's Leap or anywhere on Highway 50, I would not hesitate to give them a call. The local climbing community up in Strawberry is super inviting and vibrant! Plus, that rock, is so dang good!
@@KlaasicAdventure Cool cool! I assume they offer guiding up routes as well as specific training for self-sufficient climbing? I will certainly look into them. My outdoor itch is real..
Great video! Best on I've seen of a route at the Leap yet. I'm trying to work my way up to all the 5.7's and then 5.8's at the Leap. Wondering if you have any tips on progression as far as routes? I've done Deception, Pop Bottle, and Lover's Chimney without much difficulty and hoping to do Bear's Reach, Corrugation Corner, and Surrealistic Pillar. Suggestions as far as order of difficulty?
Thanks for the good word Alex! They each have their own challenges when compared to each other. But, if you can lead 5.7, have good knowledge of anchor building, and have a good lead head; you’re ready for all of them! Which, I’m sure you are. But this would be my suggested order of operations. Surrealistic Pillar: I’d hit this one first. You can climb it in two pitches and effectively reduce your time on the wall. This will allow you to go light at fast. Pitch 1 is positive and well protectable. Pitches 2/3 if combined, have the mental challenge of the “dike hike” 5.5. runout. But the climbing is super positive, and you can study the video a bit for beta on route finding and belays. Super quick and easy descent off climbers right. Bring lots of alpine draws. Bring a 70M if climbing in two pitches. 10-minute descent climbers right. Corrugation Corner: Amazing route. I’d do this one second. The exposure mixed in with a few spicy traverses gives this route some mental challenges. But, it’s also what makes it so amazing. There are a few traverses and exposed moves, that are equally as difficult and committing for your follower. But the moves are positive. P1 is straight forward crack, face, and stemming. Belay takes hand sized pieces. P2 traverses to an exposed arete (wow), climbs past a couple fixed pins, and beach whales onto a sloping ledge. Belay takes 2”-3” cams. P3 goes up a chimney, traverse to a corner, and up an easy dike system to the top. I belayed off a boulder up top. Descend east (climbers left). Amazing route. 45-minute descent climbers left. Bears Reach: I though this route was a little tricky to protect. The rock quality isn’t as good as Surrealistic Pillar or Corrugation Corner, but you can find good protection with a little effort. The runout at the start of P1 isn’t too bad. The rest of the pitch protects well. P2 is the tricky pitch and where you’d find the namesake reach move. The climbing is positive. But place pro whenever you find a good, solid, placement. Some of the flakes can be a bit hollow and uninspiring. P2 belay is hand sized pieces and is comfy. P3 is straight forward minus a 5.7/8 finger crack roof move. Traverse right at the top and belay in a crack system somewhere along the ramp using medium sized pieces. It was my least favorite of the three. 20-minute descent climbers left. General Suggestions: Start early to beat the heat and crowds. Bring lots of alpine draws. I climbed with doubles up to 3” on all routes. This time of year, the wall goes into the sun at about 1:30PM. Make sure you have ample water if you’re climbing in the sun. Better to start early when it’s cool. Side Note: If you’re a little unsure, you could always do a day with Lovers Leap Guides. Petch is rad dude and could lead you and your partner up these routes. Not a bad way to enjoy climbing if you’re not feeling the stress of leading. It takes all the guess work and logistics out of the equation and you get a lot done. Then you can return for you leads! Check them out on Instagram @loversleapguides. We met him on route while climbing Bear’s Reach.
5:45.....Thank you!! Was starting to get ants in my pants and then you dropped that cam in the crack and.......Relief LOL!! Great video and awesome climbing! And that run out at the top.... Great job!!! Really enjoyed the video :)
@Jon, yeah, I pushed that runout (5:45) a bit more than I probably needed. I was just trying to reduce the potential of rope drag. But, in that upper section (20:50 | 28:33) there is no avoiding it. Easy climbing, (5.4) up beautiful dikes...but by far the longest runout(s) I've ever done. Easily had 40-50 feet of rope out. Just glad the climbing was cruiser.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks again for sharing your stoke!
Classic!
Hey man this is sick! Thanks so much for sharing your experience with the people! Happy climbing!
Thanks for the good vibes Priya! 🤙
What a great video, and that looks like *such* a fun climb! You definitely seemed to encounter the Three Scary Rs of trad multi-pitch: run outs, rope drag, and route finding!
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for sharing the good vibes. All the R's for sure!
sick stuff! forgot about all the lover's leap climbs on my to-do list haha. gotta start ticking them
Yeah man. First time there this year. Corrugation is 💯. Really cool area for moderate multipitch.
@@KlaasicAdventure glad to hear corrugation is a classic!! you ever climbed out at tahquitz? incredible rock there
I've climbed a few routes on Tahquitz (Trough, Coffin Nail, Trailer Horn, Open Book). It is a great area for sure! Lots more to explore up there.
fuuck yeah, i gotta get on open book
@@sullycrashers It's a good one. P1's boulder problem at the start and then the move from the wide lie-back onto the "ear" were the cruxes for me. I had a stronger partner that day and he took the leads. Following allowed me to just really enjoy the climbing. So, I feel pretty lucky having experienced America's first 5.9 in that style first. Just pure climbing. I shall return soon for the leads though!
Excellent video. Great climb. Looking forward to doing this one. Was there yesterday and found out about this route.
Thanks for the good word Ananda! What did you end up climbing out there? If you climb Surrealistic Pillar, let me know what you think of it.
@@KlaasicAdventureWe were checking out the main formation areas. This was only our second time at the Leap. I live about an hour away so I'll be tearing it up once I get my cams. I only have sport gear and nuts, so I was limited to routes on Hogsback. Great fun.
@@ananda_miaoyin lucky you! Yeah, gearing up is a process. But, I love the gear stoke of building up and optimizing a trad rack.
@@KlaasicAdventure Just an update after watching this again. The Caldor Fire burned out the Leap on August 17th - also destroyed my house and my town of Grizzly Flat. We are geared up now and are climbing the Pillar on the 4th. Looking forward to it. Thanks for all the beta, bro!
@@ananda_miaoyin so sorry to hear about your home. Nature can be so rewarding and so brutal in the same hand. But, glad you're getting out and having fun despite that. I'm stoked you were stoked enough to come back and let me know!
It's the 6th now. Sooo...how did ya like it!?!? Do tell!
One of my favorite routes at Lovers!
It's a great route. I love the traverses!
This looks beyond cool. As a typical indoor plastic puller, would you suggest taking classes on trad, anchor building, etc.. for someone that doesn’t know anyone that could teach me. I live in Cali and feel like I’m missing out on all this goodness. 😅 any advice is greatly appreciated!
Hey @Catsaur! There are a lot of different ways to approach entry into trad climbing. However, I am a strong advocate in finding a certified outdoor guide who can teach you the skills necessary to feel confident. The easiest way to do this is to find an outdoor area you'd like to climb at. Then, research the local guiding companies that guide in that area. If you spend a day with the guide, you will not only get to climb some cool stuff, but you'll learn some valuable skills and get a better understanding of the process.
All-in-all, the topics that are most important to the safety of trad climbing are anchor building, anchor cleaning, leading, and self-rescue. Personally, I decided to get guided instruction for each topic. It was worth its weight in gold because it gave me confidence. Trad climbing can be mentally demanding at times. But, if you trust your knowledge, gear, and systems; you will likely have more fun.
Learning this stuff isn't hard. It's actually super fun to spend a day with a guide. What part of California are you based out of? Maybe I can recommend an area and/or guide service?
Also, here are a couple Instagram channels that I really enjoy. (@thecodybradford, @daleremsberg)
@@KlaasicAdventure I'm based in the south bay area Norcal. The two locations that come to mind are Tahoe and Yosemite. We also have guides at Castle Rock State Park and in the Berkeley Hills, so I've got some options given how popular climbing is here. I totally agree with your sentiments, I think I'll feel a lot safer having comprehensive classes on everything.
@@catsaur Awesome! Yeah, you've got some great options. Actually, when I was climbing in Lover's Leap (when I filmed this), I met Petch from Lover's Leap Guides. We were both toping out on our routes at the same time.
The guy is super mellow and I had some good conversations with him. If you find yourself wanting to climb Lover's Leap or anywhere on Highway 50, I would not hesitate to give them a call. The local climbing community up in Strawberry is super inviting and vibrant! Plus, that rock, is so dang good!
@@KlaasicAdventure Cool cool! I assume they offer guiding up routes as well as specific training for self-sufficient climbing? I will certainly look into them. My outdoor itch is real..
Great video! Best on I've seen of a route at the Leap yet. I'm trying to work my way up to all the 5.7's and then 5.8's at the Leap. Wondering if you have any tips on progression as far as routes? I've done Deception, Pop Bottle, and Lover's Chimney without much difficulty and hoping to do Bear's Reach, Corrugation Corner, and Surrealistic Pillar. Suggestions as far as order of difficulty?
Thanks for the good word Alex! They each have their own challenges when compared to each other. But, if you can lead 5.7, have good knowledge of anchor building, and have a good lead head; you’re ready for all of them! Which, I’m sure you are. But this would be my suggested order of operations.
Surrealistic Pillar: I’d hit this one first. You can climb it in two pitches and effectively reduce your time on the wall. This will allow you to go light at fast. Pitch 1 is positive and well protectable. Pitches 2/3 if combined, have the mental challenge of the “dike hike” 5.5. runout. But the climbing is super positive, and you can study the video a bit for beta on route finding and belays. Super quick and easy descent off climbers right. Bring lots of alpine draws. Bring a 70M if climbing in two pitches. 10-minute descent climbers right.
Corrugation Corner: Amazing route. I’d do this one second. The exposure mixed in with a few spicy traverses gives this route some mental challenges. But, it’s also what makes it so amazing. There are a few traverses and exposed moves, that are equally as difficult and committing for your follower. But the moves are positive. P1 is straight forward crack, face, and stemming. Belay takes hand sized pieces. P2 traverses to an exposed arete (wow), climbs past a couple fixed pins, and beach whales onto a sloping ledge. Belay takes 2”-3” cams. P3 goes up a chimney, traverse to a corner, and up an easy dike system to the top. I belayed off a boulder up top. Descend east (climbers left). Amazing route. 45-minute descent climbers left.
Bears Reach: I though this route was a little tricky to protect. The rock quality isn’t as good as Surrealistic Pillar or Corrugation Corner, but you can find good protection with a little effort. The runout at the start of P1 isn’t too bad. The rest of the pitch protects well. P2 is the tricky pitch and where you’d find the namesake reach move. The climbing is positive. But place pro whenever you find a good, solid, placement. Some of the flakes can be a bit hollow and uninspiring. P2 belay is hand sized pieces and is comfy. P3 is straight forward minus a 5.7/8 finger crack roof move. Traverse right at the top and belay in a crack system somewhere along the ramp using medium sized pieces. It was my least favorite of the three. 20-minute descent climbers left.
General Suggestions: Start early to beat the heat and crowds. Bring lots of alpine draws. I climbed with doubles up to 3” on all routes. This time of year, the wall goes into the sun at about 1:30PM. Make sure you have ample water if you’re climbing in the sun. Better to start early when it’s cool.
Side Note: If you’re a little unsure, you could always do a day with Lovers Leap Guides. Petch is rad dude and could lead you and your partner up these routes. Not a bad way to enjoy climbing if you’re not feeling the stress of leading. It takes all the guess work and logistics out of the equation and you get a lot done. Then you can return for you leads! Check them out on Instagram @loversleapguides. We met him on route while climbing Bear’s Reach.
Bombski Broksi
Yeah my buddy!