The transformation from the swampy apocalyptic disaster it was before to the beautiful large pond it is now is fantastic. The people in the houses around the pond must be absolutely delighted as well.
Marty T here on youtube has a homemade Pelton wheel hydro set-up. It's all on his channel. The cost was pennies up until the wiring and Inverter. He runs his whole place on it. Another great segment, it's be cool to see the water rising too!
Thanks, a nice update video for sure. Looking forward to the hydroelectric setup, lights on the dam and also water level updates. Nice place you have there.
Check your seal for any cracks later,if so check with your supplier of the pvc they will have a product that is a bit like cement putty that all our drain layers use in NZ real good stuff,hope this is helpful,keep up the great content
I thought it was quite ingenious to use this cement to seal the pipe. I would have tried using some kind of flange screwed to the concrete, but this seems much simpler to use. Your work is very good.
Looks great Brian and a good idea! Thanks for sharing and we’ll see you in the next one brother! Take care!🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👌🏻👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙋🏼✌🏻✌🏻💯💯💯💯
Never could justify buying a core drill, but I have a big rotary hammer drill. I draw out the circle I need and use 1/4 bit drill on line all the way around the circle. Break it out. Mostly for dryer vents. Never done one for water buy some of that grout will seal it up, Yes sir anything to do with pond I'm here for it. Pour pad over the top of rock, that will help keep the pad from sliding down the dam. PVC does NOT like UV (sun) Paint it that will prolong its life.
Thanks for sharing, Seen similar method to drill large hole through a thick stainless steel plate. Mag drill and rotary broach cutter. Spendy, and don't have them.
Actually I designed this overflow system and I was debating on going even bigger. A 24" was recommended like Geoff's but I like to over build things. One 36" pipe is equivalent to almost 3 24" pipes. Lowering the water level will allow for more storage.. just another precautionary measure.
Spray foam would have made a good quick seal. For your inlet, I would consider attaching a 45° to it and a couple feet of pipe so that it is taking in water below anything floating on the surface so you don't plug up on leaves and the beavers couldn't plug it
The rubber stuff was actually made by one of those spray foam companies... Too bad it didn't expand. Spray foam just doesn't seem like it would last long term and there will be 10' of pipe hanging down on the inside so it wasn't ideal. I was thinking about doing a 90 and may try a 45 instead.
I retired from a marine shipyard and to seal that pipe into your overflow I would have used Philadelphia resin chalk fast orange or gray to permanently sealed that pipe in place.
Looks good. The biggest thing is are you happy with the progress that your doing and that's what counts. I might have put 2 in at different levels just for shear volume of the size of the lake or a 8-10in for emergency purposes either way good job
Right after we got done I looked and kicked myself for not doing 2, side by side.. 1 for a valve and one for the hydroelectric lol oh well Those valves are big $
@@BrushCommando Place a T on the inside of the spillway. Then you use one outlet for your hydroelectric power plant and the other to simply drain the lake.
I have a retention pond behind my house also with a 6” pvc pipe but they used a 6” tee installed vertically withe center of the tee installed on the pipe. This keeps floating material from clogging the pipe. Looking forward to seeing the pond full
Water pressure is what makes an electric generation system work….you need to install a “second” pipe beside the overflow and install the electric water turbine as low as possible (with it being in danger of getting wet) on the lower side of the dam…if you install a valve in front of generator at the highest point possible or you will need to install a water hammer “stack” that will protect from “ water hammers”
Yep! The valve placement here is temporary. There will be a 10' down pipe that gets narrowed to 1/4" nozzle out the other end of the overflow, this will greatly increase the pressure, to a turbine mounted slightly higher than the water level. Good idea on the water hammer stack!
@@BrushCommando do a lot of research on generation….A/C generation is expensive because the turbine needs to be controlled at an exact rpm…while D/C generation is much cheaper and you can use a battery bank to store power for motor starts etc..and since everyone is into solar…you can get a dc generator directly into a solar controller since you are talking about a reduction in pipe size I assume talking about a pelton turbine which means you don’t need a water hammer stack since the “air gap” removes the possibility of a water hammer
@@John13Edge Yes, a pelton style turbine (Possibly rig up a wheel in an old washing machine) connected to a charge controller for a battery bank. Already have a 5kw inverter. just need to verify pressures and source an appropriate sized turbine. Solar would definitely be simpler but I'm up for a good challenge.
There could be a lot of torque on the tubing that the gate valve is mounted on if it were to get repeatedly jostled. That could crack the grout. Given how sloppy the tolerance is between the core and the pipe, I'd consider implimenting some strain relief between the valve and the riser to guard against the valve getting whacked by a boat or wave-driven wood debris. I appreciate your concern about the valve icing over but it would be safer from a mechanical perspective to have the valve mounted inside the riser. An alternative solution would be to have grouted the 7" thru hole to form a 6" ID (with appropriate tolerance) and then to have installed the pipe with a more appropriate sealant.
Thanks! That's a valid concern and another reason as to why the valve hasn't been glued on yet, it was just hanging on for the video but it can slide all the way flush to the riser. I didn't show everything but that cement was packed in until it was pushing through the other side so it should be a very good seal and a strong joint. However, It will most likely get moved to the inside. We'll see
When you setup the hydro-electric unit i'd love to know the price & what the unit is as i got a friend that is setting up a off-grid cabin that has a creek on the property and I'm trying get a design made for her to run a bunch 5 volt lights & charge her cell & ham radio off of without needing a huge battery bank She just going use a 12v gel cell & adaptor like car charger that drops to 5 volt She just told me about it Friday night & I looked at some on amazon I'm doing show catch up again this is 2am Tuesday morning and I just got done moderating chat for 3 shows on here !
This is a great idea but does your situation require it? I’m no water expert but it was my understanding that the size of your through pipe drain was sized well and that only in extreme circumstances would there ever be a need to use the overflow. Does this provide the mechanism for energy generation that you were describing? Perhaps you are planning to offer your downstream neighbor water on a controlled basis? Lots of thoughts….
Flood control. If he has capacity to store water during a flood event, it helps regulate/minimize downstream flooding during the event. His overflow sizing should prevent damage to his property, but he is exercising community stewardship by also preventing downstream damage to whatever extent he can.
I'm sure I'm not the first but that is not a gate valve it is a guillotine valve. A gate valve has angled seats to allow tighter seating. A guillotine valve goes straight down between runners to block the flow. These valve may be designed have some minor leakage.
@@GregMeyer-p1i Definitely looks like a guillotine! Others say it’s a doorstop. I just call it what the manufacturer advertised it as, a gate valve. There are seals on the inside.
Just a thought but what happens if you want to maintain/replace the valve. With the valve on the inside or other side of the lake you could still block the flow into it and be able to remove if need be?
How much head do you have down the back of thee dam? I have a I think 12" real Pelton wheel I want to get rid of. I bought it at auction years ago. I saw the same wheel run an entire wood shop on belts with 90' of head on YT.
Not much, 13'. That's why I was thinking to use the gravity reduction design. It would increase pressure significantly. Not sure if that 12" would work but I am interested to see pictures and know the details. send info to: BrushCommando@yahoo.com
I don't think that 6" pipe will be much help drawing the pond down for rain events unless you see the rain coming a week or two ahead of time, You need about a 24 " pipe and valve in there to be able to draw the pond pretty rapidly. You can probably contact the Precast Concrete company who made your risers and have them cast you a replacement riser for that top one with a larger hole already cast into it. Good luck with your projects 👍
@@russellsmith3825 Yeah and you could take that 6 inch pipe put a cap on the end of it and glue the fitting but just slide it in and don't glue it on the filter end this way if it ever gets damaged you can just pull it out and replace it and make a new one
I expect the pvc valve will fail no mater where you locate it (inside the box or outside the box). The inlet side of the valve will always be filled with water and will be subject to freezing and ice expansion. How thick does the ice freeze in the winter? The valve may be frozen into the ice. For applications such as what you want to do, that's the reason that drain valves are located well below the freeze line and utilize an extended control device to open and close the valve.
I don't think adding an extension lower into the pond will make it drain lower. The water is still locked to the highest point. You'd have to add an extension down inside the riser...AND, somehow start a siphon.
To lower a 9.5 acre pond just one inch you need to remove 257,965.7 gallons of water. How much water do you think can flow through that tiny pipe in an hour? Answer: not nearly enough. At a 100 gallons a minute, i.e., equivalent to high pump pressure, it would take 43 hours to lower the pond one inch.
@SHADOW.GGG- Well yes, that is the entire purpose of the big 16 square foot overflow Chris installed. Lowering the pond won't really matter because that overflow is designed to handle anything including heavy rains from a hurricane whether the gate value is there or not.
@@snappingbear The inlet is mostly for the hydroelectric part and the gate valve is an added bonus. I definitely don’t expect it to drain rapidly but over the course of a week ,when there’s a named storm coming, I’ll open it and it’ll help create more water storage. Every little bit helps. A 6” flows 800 gallons per min btw.so the answer to your question is 48,000 gallons per hour.
I was curious so I plugged in the values you supplied into the Hazen-Williams equation to calculate the flow rate of water through a horizontal pipe by gravity. Using the values C=150 (roughness coefficient for PVC), D=6 inches (inside pipe diameter), L=17 inches (pipe length), H = 12 inches (Head height from water surface to intake pipe) and S≈0.706 (approx calculated driving head slope given actual slope of pipe is zero) produces a expected gallons per minute (GPM) flow rate of 3,894 GPM, if H was 2 feet the flow would jump to 5,662 GPM. Bear in mind these are not exact because the horizontal orientation of the pipe complicates things, but they are still very close to right. Also the 3,894 is only at the very start as H lowers because the pond lowers the GPM reduces significantly. When H is only one inch (S drops to ≈0.059) the flow is 1,017 GPM. That is still a lot more than I expected. Going back to my original post, that gate valve could lower the pond one inch in about 70 minutes. That is so much faster than I thought. I hope you test it.
@@BrushCommando Where did you get those numbers from? See my latest calculations using the hydraulic engineering Hazen-Williams equation that accounts for the important factors to get the correct values given your situation.
@BrushCommando I'm not hating on you. There's just too much difference in expansion and contraction between pvc and concrete. And the other is just physics. The pressure of the water coming through your pipe is only controlled here by how much water is above it not behind it. It's a great idea for draining it down ahead of a storm although, a 6" pipe with take a while on a lake that size. Like I said, I'm not trying to be mean, I'm just sharing experience.
Screw the gate on. Don't glue it so you can replace it if it ever needs to be replaced. Also when temps get down to freezing and you can install a plug cap if it becomes necessary.
Yes please! I/we would love to see the water level at least once a week! Please and thank you sir.
Alright, a few have asked for that. I'll try to do weekly updates on the grass and water levels of the lake and the old duck pond.
The transformation from the swampy apocalyptic disaster it was before to the beautiful large pond it is now is fantastic.
The people in the houses around the pond must be absolutely delighted as well.
@@WombleUK not to mention the reduction of mosquitos by going from swamp to open water were fish can eat the larvae
Wow look how much it’s filled up already!! How awesome!
Loved the core drilling bit - great to watch a pro at work 🤩
Oh, I forgot your project turned out great!!!! congrats Chris nailed it.
This is going to look so good when finished..you and Chris did a great job
Yes can’t wait to see the water up 5’. Gate valve good idea. You’re always thinking.👍👍
Great idea, I bet Mr. Bealey Good wishes he had one.
That’s going to be one awesome lake when it’s full. I can’t wait to see that. Beautiful piece of land.
Marty T here on youtube has a homemade Pelton wheel hydro set-up. It's all on his channel. The cost was pennies up until the wiring and Inverter. He runs his whole place on it.
Another great segment, it's be cool to see the water rising too!
Thanks! Going to check that out. I already have a big 5kw inverter sitting around
Marty is definitely a trip nothing he can't make or fix!!
need a constant supply of new water to generate any power
@ it’s all spring fed and is filling up quickly. Our pond below it was always flowing and its feed came from my property.
You beat me to the recommendation on Looking Mart T. HA
Thanks, a nice update video for sure. Looking forward to the hydroelectric setup, lights on the dam and also water level updates. Nice place you have there.
Check your seal for any cracks later,if so check with your supplier of the pvc they will have a product that is a bit like cement putty that all our drain layers use in NZ real good stuff,hope this is helpful,keep up the great content
Thanks for the advise
Water is rising, I can see it.
Thanks👍
Damn… grass after 1 week. Well done.
The local seed store has the right mix for sure!
FYI & FWIW, Rye and Fescue come up in about a week. Bluegrass can take 2 weeks or more…
Looks like the pond let's dig 18 done I always watch his work is always excellent regards Alan from the UK.
His last project.
@@alanmcclusky we just finished it
Nice seeing how the water is rising. Nice job on installing the gate valve. Thanks for sharing, Brian.
Brian, I would like to see the hydroelectric addition when you get it installed.
@@Navyuncle you can bet that there will be a video series covering the hydroelectric part.
I thought it was quite ingenious to use this cement to seal the pipe. I would have tried using some kind of flange screwed to the concrete, but this seems much simpler to use. Your work is very good.
Thanks! I was looking into flanges then this idea hit me lol
THANKS SO MUCH FOR VIDEOING THE DRILL PROCESS GREAT INSIGHT
Link seals work great to seal through penetrations.
Never knew about those
Unlike many other pond builds I've seen...your watter is very clear
@@alaskandawg929 all spring fed
Looks great Brian and a good idea! Thanks for sharing and we’ll see you in the next one brother! Take care!🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👌🏻👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙋🏼✌🏻✌🏻💯💯💯💯
Never could justify buying a core drill, but I have a big rotary hammer drill. I draw out the circle I need and use 1/4 bit drill on line all the way around the circle. Break it out. Mostly for dryer vents. Never done one for water buy some of that grout will seal it up,
Yes sir anything to do with pond I'm here for it.
Pour pad over the top of rock, that will help keep the pad from sliding down the dam.
PVC does NOT like UV (sun) Paint it that will prolong its life.
Mounting a 'dry' fit so you can adjust/change later (when possible) - I hear you brother! I do the same and find it very practical. 👍😉
Tropical storm Rafael is coming ,, pond going to get filled up 😎
You the Man. I would not do after all that work.
So glad we came across your channel.
@@vhostovich glad you’re here
That was cool. I can see why that drill would be expensive
From now on,you might want to sand/ream all your pipes/fittings before installation- it help the water go thru with minimal turbulence
Surprising the results you got without using a grout bag.
Thanks for sharing, Seen similar method to drill large hole through a thick stainless steel plate. Mag drill and rotary broach cutter. Spendy, and don't have them.
thanks for sharing, interested how your hydro with work, looking forward to more videos..
Spencer Langston is the guy to talk to on the hydro generator. The guy is a genius. Hes got a UA-cam, and I think possibly in NC.
MM77 Approved 👍🏼 👍🏼
I'm pretty sure after watching all of Chris's vids on this project,that he designed the overflow to handle rains from storms and hurricanes
Actually I designed this overflow system and I was debating on going even bigger. A 24" was recommended like Geoff's but I like to over build things. One 36" pipe is equivalent to almost 3 24" pipes. Lowering the water level will allow for more storage.. just another precautionary measure.
Spray foam would have made a good quick seal.
For your inlet, I would consider attaching a 45° to it and a couple feet of pipe so that it is taking in water below anything floating on the surface so you don't plug up on leaves and the beavers couldn't plug it
The rubber stuff was actually made by one of those spray foam companies... Too bad it didn't expand. Spray foam just doesn't seem like it would last long term and there will be 10' of pipe hanging down on the inside so it wasn't ideal. I was thinking about doing a 90 and may try a 45 instead.
@BrushCommando link seals are the correct way but you would have drilled a bigger hole
You will have to fight against the beavers ....
Hey Brian !!! What a thought to use the water instead of solar panels that need constant maintenance !!! 👍👍👍👍👍
I retired from a marine shipyard and to seal that pipe into your overflow I would have used Philadelphia resin chalk fast orange or gray to permanently sealed that pipe in place.
Looks good. The biggest thing is are you happy with the progress that your doing and that's what counts. I might have put 2 in at different levels just for shear volume of the size of the lake or a 8-10in for emergency purposes either way good job
Right after we got done I looked and kicked myself for not doing 2, side by side.. 1 for a valve and one for the hydroelectric lol oh well Those valves are big $
@@BrushCommando Place a T on the inside of the spillway. Then you use one outlet for your hydroelectric power plant and the other to simply drain the lake.
@BrushCommando yes I agree but lessons are still a learning experience so keep up the fun. They say if your not making mistakes your not learning
I have a retention pond behind my house also with a 6” pvc pipe but they used a 6” tee installed vertically withe center of the tee installed on the pipe. This keeps floating material from clogging the pipe. Looking forward to seeing the pond full
Water pressure is what makes an electric generation system work….you need to install a “second” pipe beside the overflow and install the electric water turbine as low as possible (with it being in danger of getting wet) on the lower side of the dam…if you install a valve in front of generator at the highest point possible or you will need to install a water hammer “stack” that will protect from “ water hammers”
Yep! The valve placement here is temporary. There will be a 10' down pipe that gets narrowed to 1/4" nozzle out the other end of the overflow, this will greatly increase the pressure, to a turbine mounted slightly higher than the water level. Good idea on the water hammer stack!
@@BrushCommando do a lot of research on generation….A/C generation is expensive because the turbine needs to be controlled at an exact rpm…while D/C generation is much cheaper and you can use a battery bank to store power for motor starts etc..and since everyone is into solar…you can get a dc generator directly into a solar controller since you are talking about a reduction in pipe size I assume talking about a pelton turbine which means you don’t need a water hammer stack since the “air gap” removes the possibility of a water hammer
@@John13Edge Yes, a pelton style turbine (Possibly rig up a wheel in an old washing machine) connected to a charge controller for a battery bank. Already have a 5kw inverter. just need to verify pressures and source an appropriate sized turbine. Solar would definitely be simpler but I'm up for a good challenge.
Doorstop!
Plastic & cement expand at different temps . Should've just sealed it with great stuff foundation sealer. It's flexible and rated 30 years
There could be a lot of torque on the tubing that the gate valve is mounted on if it were to get repeatedly jostled. That could crack the grout. Given how sloppy the tolerance is between the core and the pipe, I'd consider implimenting some strain relief between the valve and the riser to guard against the valve getting whacked by a boat or wave-driven wood debris. I appreciate your concern about the valve icing over but it would be safer from a mechanical perspective to have the valve mounted inside the riser.
An alternative solution would be to have grouted the 7" thru hole to form a 6" ID (with appropriate tolerance) and then to have installed the pipe with a more appropriate sealant.
Thanks! That's a valid concern and another reason as to why the valve hasn't been glued on yet, it was just hanging on for the video but it can slide all the way flush to the riser. I didn't show everything but that cement was packed in until it was pushing through the other side so it should be a very good seal and a strong joint. However, It will most likely get moved to the inside. We'll see
When you setup the hydro-electric unit i'd love to know the price & what the unit is as i got a friend that is setting up a off-grid cabin that has a creek on the property and I'm trying get a design made for her to run a bunch 5 volt lights & charge her cell & ham radio off of without needing a huge battery bank She just going use a 12v gel cell & adaptor like car charger that drops to 5 volt She just told me about it Friday night & I looked at some on amazon I'm doing show catch up again this is 2am Tuesday morning and I just got done moderating chat for 3 shows on here !
This is a great idea but does your situation require it? I’m no water expert but it was my understanding that the size of your through pipe drain was sized well and that only in extreme circumstances would there ever be a need to use the overflow. Does this provide the mechanism for energy generation that you were describing? Perhaps you are planning to offer your downstream neighbor water on a controlled basis? Lots of thoughts….
Flood control. If he has capacity to store water during a flood event, it helps regulate/minimize downstream flooding during the event. His overflow sizing should prevent damage to his property, but he is exercising community stewardship by also preventing downstream damage to whatever extent he can.
I would put the gate valve on the inside as you could have a lot of debris pushing up against the valve as the pond fills.
Thanks, Probably going to do that
I'm sure I'm not the first but that is not a gate valve it is a guillotine valve. A gate valve has angled seats to allow tighter seating. A guillotine valve goes straight down between runners to block the flow. These valve may be designed have some minor leakage.
@@GregMeyer-p1i Definitely looks like a guillotine! Others say it’s a doorstop. I just call it what the manufacturer advertised it as, a gate valve. There are seals on the inside.
Septictank people have rubber gaskets that work great for that if they have one as dfeep
Those aren’t for CPVC, they’re for thin wall PVC. You need Sch 40 fittings labeled DWV
Recently subscribed and have been catching up. Have enjoyed this vid and others for its content and camera work. How's the oak tree you transplanted?
@@pb4414 Thanks, it’s struggling but I’m still watering it.
Just a thought but what happens if you want to maintain/replace the valve. With the valve on the inside or other side of the lake you could still block the flow into it and be able to remove if need be?
Yes, I considered that during the design and can use end caps to block the flow.
How much head do you have down the back of thee dam? I have a I think 12" real Pelton wheel I want to get rid of. I bought it at auction years ago. I saw the same wheel run an entire wood shop on belts with 90' of head on YT.
Not much, 13'. That's why I was thinking to use the gravity reduction design. It would increase pressure significantly. Not sure if that 12" would work but I am interested to see pictures and know the details. send info to: BrushCommando@yahoo.com
I don't think that 6" pipe will be much help drawing the pond down for rain events unless you see the rain coming a week or two ahead of time, You need about a 24 " pipe and valve in there to be able to draw the pond pretty rapidly. You can probably contact the Precast Concrete company who made your risers and have them cast you a replacement riser for that top one with a larger hole already cast into it. Good luck with your projects 👍
Thanks! It's mostly just for named storms that are predicted far in advance, not to drain it down rapidly.
An idea for your screen....18 or 24 inches of that 6 in pipe you are using and drill it full of inch diameter holes ...that's your filter
@@EighteenWheelerPilot could use a very thin saw blade to make perfs like they do for well casing
@@russellsmith3825 Yeah and you could take that 6 inch pipe put a cap on the end of it and glue the fitting but just slide it in and don't glue it on the filter end this way if it ever gets damaged you can just pull it out and replace it and make a new one
I wonder if his boss knows he is doing jobs on the side with his equipment. LOL
@@specialks1953 lol my initial thoughts too but he actually started his own company recently. Details in the description.
I expect the pvc valve will fail no mater where you locate it (inside the box or outside the box). The inlet side of the valve will always be filled with water and will be subject to freezing and ice expansion. How thick does the ice freeze in the winter? The valve may be frozen into the ice. For applications such as what you want to do, that's the reason that drain valves are located well below the freeze line and utilize an extended control device to open and close the valve.
We don't see much cold weather here in NC (South of Raleigh), might snow once a year, if that.
Paint the exposed plastic with a dark paint to protect it from the UV rays or you will only get 8 to 10 years or less!
I know it's too late, but if you had cored a 10" hole in the structure, you could have used a Link-Seal.
@@hvy1ton Used pro-select hydraulic water plug cement, hopefully we won’t have to revisit it.
Preferably you use hydraulic cement it expands rather than shrinking. Or you should have gotten some of the sealant cris used on the riser joints.
@@philhammond5908 that’s what it was
My idea make decking around overflow
What happened to the beavers, did they move over to your neighbors pond??
They're between ponds now, 7 have been removed so far and we have muskrats. Have to start trapping them soon.
There now plotting there revenge 😂
You need a LinkSeal and a bigger hole
I'm curious what Chris thought of your idea?
Not too sure, he did say the septic place could have put a sleeve in it. Probably the first hydroelectric one he’s heard of
I don't think adding an extension lower into the pond will make it drain lower. The water is still locked to the highest point. You'd have to add an extension down inside the riser...AND, somehow start a siphon.
@@cember01 it will have a 10’ down pipe inside the riser.
Probably would add a trash screen on the inlet side of the gate valve to stop debris from clogging the pipe.
He mentioned that is planned in this very video.
are the beavers still there?
@@ronblack7870 haven’t seen any, they’re probably planning their next assault lol
To lower a 9.5 acre pond just one inch you need to remove 257,965.7 gallons of water. How much water do you think can flow through that tiny pipe in an hour? Answer: not nearly enough. At a 100 gallons a minute, i.e., equivalent to high pump pressure, it would take 43 hours to lower the pond one inch.
it will just go over the top
@SHADOW.GGG- Well yes, that is the entire purpose of the big 16 square foot overflow Chris installed. Lowering the pond won't really matter because that overflow is designed to handle anything including heavy rains from a hurricane whether the gate value is there or not.
@@snappingbear The inlet is mostly for the hydroelectric part and the gate valve is an added bonus. I definitely don’t expect it to drain rapidly but over the course of a week ,when there’s a named storm coming, I’ll open it and it’ll help create more water storage. Every little bit helps. A 6” flows 800 gallons per min btw.so the answer to your question is 48,000 gallons per hour.
I was curious so I plugged in the values you supplied into the Hazen-Williams equation to calculate the flow rate of water through a horizontal pipe by gravity. Using the values C=150 (roughness coefficient for PVC), D=6 inches (inside pipe diameter), L=17 inches (pipe length), H = 12 inches (Head height from water surface to intake pipe) and S≈0.706 (approx calculated driving head slope given actual slope of pipe is zero) produces a expected gallons per minute (GPM) flow rate of 3,894 GPM, if H was 2 feet the flow would jump to 5,662 GPM. Bear in mind these are not exact because the horizontal orientation of the pipe complicates things, but they are still very close to right. Also the 3,894 is only at the very start as H lowers because the pond lowers the GPM reduces significantly. When H is only one inch (S drops to ≈0.059) the flow is 1,017 GPM. That is still a lot more than I expected.
Going back to my original post, that gate valve could lower the pond one inch in about 70 minutes. That is so much faster than I thought. I hope you test it.
@@BrushCommando Where did you get those numbers from? See my latest calculations using the hydraulic engineering Hazen-Williams equation that accounts for the important factors to get the correct values given your situation.
Always bevel the pipe ends.
@@Rickimusic I’m a PVC newbie, no fancy tools here.
I hope your drilling 7” hole?
@@gregjones3453 lol 7” hole, 6” pipe. Got the numbers mixed up
Proper planing would have made the drilling unnecessary, it would have been better, easier and cheaper to concrete the pipe in
❤❤ why would you drive a vehicle on a freshly seeded pond dam ?
@@Rick-kk4yy I know, really didn’t want to but the equipment and generator were heavy.
Put some rip rap down in front of the valve.
Sorry bud but that cement that you put around that pipe is going to fail you need silicone whether you like it or not
@@keithbennett1475 It’s ProSelect Water Plug Hydraulic Cement so let’s hope not.
Thats going to leak like a sieve. All you had to do is silicone it in there. Its too high to get any power for electrical generation.
@@farmerbill6855 if it leaks I’ll show it, there will be a 10’ down pipe on it too.
@BrushCommando I'm not hating on you. There's just too much difference in expansion and contraction between pvc and concrete. And the other is just physics. The pressure of the water coming through your pipe is only controlled here by how much water is above it not behind it. It's a great idea for draining it down ahead of a storm although, a 6" pipe with take a while on a lake that size. Like I said, I'm not trying to be mean, I'm just sharing experience.
Screw the gate on.
Don't glue it so you can replace it if it ever needs to be replaced.
Also when temps get down to freezing and you can install a plug cap if it becomes necessary.