If you put a 102" whip on there with the Wilson 4" extension you will get a near flat SWR, that's assuming you're using a decent coax. B.T.W. it looks like you have a solid understanding of bonding your system. Never skimp on bonding, it's the heart of your rig!
Its on a 10" riser now actually..Allows for more freq tuneing ..I dont tune via swr,resonance(x=0 or close to it)and resistance(r=50ohm or close to it) and swr will follow..
@@craig_sez8534 I'm running this antenna on 10, 11 and 12 meters, so the 4" riser seems to work the best for me. Although i do use the antenna tuner in my radio to compensate for SWR in the other bands.
@@Swoop180 Are you running that without any adjjstments and soley based on swr?? Im a bit anal about it with the know how i do have and like to tune specifically for when i tx/rec the most..Mind you im mostly on cb vs side band but i tuned in the middle of the band to kinda cover all the bases..Now im more local and when i unsieze my lock in my riser ill tune closer to 26965...I like the riser idea cause it gets me a lil taller and allows more tunability when im chattin alot somewhere..
@@Swoop180 There is a fella that has sence passed on but basically has same set up as mine..He ran the wilson 4" shaft and managed 70 mi on a barefoot stryker 955..Look for 70 mile cascadia or was it 74 mi..One ot the other..UA-cam vud was done by scot johnson..
2014 truck got out 2 miles on mirror mount and 5-10 miles on factory cab side mount. Plus it was fun to listen to the antennas slap the roof. 2018 truck got 1 mile max on mirror mount and quarter mile on in-roof antenna 2019 truck can't rx the guard shack on in-roof antenna and mirror mount gets about 3/4 mile back and half mile forward. Get speaker buzz from power inverter too, nothing from fridge. Cb dash mount power tap works just as good as behind dash cover in my case. Gonna throw a ground cable on the mount to firewall just cuz I got one laying around. Same firestik 2 tune tip and cobra 29 Ltd classic I've had for 5 years the trucks cb compatibility just keep getting worse.
Unless your inverter is a pure sine wave they will make noise..Cell chargers n such make noise..Try some ferrites to knock it down and confirm connections are good..Poor soldering and crimping will make it easy for leakage to.. I tested my radio with another guy..Got about 15ish mi foward and hair over 40 from behind..Plastic trucks..
On the previous cascadias, that black plate is where the hydraulic clutch pedal is located. You have an automatic, therefore they have that space blocked off.. One quick question tho, where do you have your ground strap connected? I saw it briefly, but couldn't make out where the other end connects. I recently started driving a 19 cascadia, and now want to install my radio. It's a connex 3300HP with a Palomar 450HD on top. Need to figure out how to tap straight in to the batteries also..
I ran power n ground same route to batter with 10ga i think and used anderson quick disconnects...my ground straps were on each side of door hinge..Its electrically connecting door to cab. I have 3 in place now,two on top hinge and 1 on bottom..I think your gonna need more from door to cab and cab to chassie seeing your running amp...I would consider running some say 4ga from battery to amp...
When you ran the power and ground to the fuse block did you put inline fuses? And is there any interference or potential of shorting out the fuse block? I have recently gotten a brand new 21 cascadia which is leased and have also just bought a stryker 497hpc. I was told it would be best if it was run straight to the batteries but don't think boss is gonna allow that in case it could possibly void the warranty and or lease. And how did you connect it to the fuse panel? Thanks in advance!
If your boss thinks it will void warranty goin to batterys,why does he feel its ok goin to fuse panel?? Any electrical connection should have fuseable link of sorts..... In my case i dont remember any interference from goin there but i did end up goin direct to battery with a fuseable link..I got a cb shop to install a 10ga direct inside my radio with anderson quick disconnect and approx 15 ft of wire to reach my batterys.. I would rather bugger up a radio or a battery than a trucks electrical....With so many sensors and and voltage/amps specifics in those sensors i feel its better to run it to battery.. If you do just be sure you have wire loom of sorts just incase your routeing can rub the outer caseing of the wireing..Also less chances of any other electrical interferences by goin to batterys... Another option is called the west mountain power booster..Still wire it the same way but keeps continious voltage at the radio(doesnt drop any voltage when you key up which a slight drop in output of radio) and again has a fuseable link..
The boss ain't gonna know lol!! I'm gonna run 10g wires down to the batteries through some convoluted tubing so it looks legit and out of sight for the most part! I don't wanna fry any computers so batteries is honestly the best way to go!
@@keithclapp5090 watchin a bonding vid from bbi,he use a specific type of insulation tape to,i guess to keep it from rubbing..Gonna have to look into that myself..
First time cb user bought a cobra in a 2017 freightliner cascadia and cannot figure it out any pointers its hooked and ready to go wondering so I need an antenna I cant hear drivers but it indicates they're talking
Volume is all the way up and I hear static and when i go to the weather station I cam hear it its fresh out the box RF is all the way clockwise what should I by and install any pointers I'm at a Loves
Did you ever end up wiring straight to the batteries beneath the driver-side door? If so, can you show the way you routed the wiring and where you got the wiring that would be needed for such a long run? Thanks!
@@craig_sez8534 What route did you take? A video of that would be awesome. I think I've found a viable option, but I'd love to see what you've come up with for power routing to the battery. I assume you've put a fuse tap in line? What size fuse? What terminal connectors are you using to connect to the batteries?
@@craig_sez8534 Ok yeah, I did something very similar with my coax yesterday. Found the same grommet you did but came into the cab lower down than the foam you pointed out. There's a hole near your left foot you can use but you have to remove the lower portion of the A pillar. And instead of going across the top of the dash, I sacrificed some skin on my knuckles. I routed the coax behind and just below the instrument cluster, behind the dash plate on the right side where they intend for your Qualcomm or whatever to go, and then down and out of the fuse box cover. My power is still a cigarette lighter because I didn't have time yesterday, nor the supplies. When I get home this weekend, I'll route the power to the battery the same way and also drill a hole in the tray where the radio sits to route the wires through there. I don't like the extra wire dangling over there on the passenger side. I prefer a "wire free" look as much as possible. I also built a plexiglass mount for the radio. It was initially made for the old style Cascadia I was recently driving so that I could mount the radio at an angle towards me on the overhead area, but without having to drill holes. I used 6 pieces of 15 lb Velcro to hold it up there. The nice thing about it though is I can reuse it here in the new style Cascadia. I'll see if I can do a video reply to yours to show all of this.
I actually just hooked up my stryker 655 in my cascadia with the metal mount on the mirror and a 5 foot skil shooter and had a 1.3 swr on 1 a 1.4 on 40 and a 1.0 on 20 so I don’t think I’m gonna need a ground strap after all
@@johnbriggs111 swr is not a tell tale as to how well ant works...Go study up on the term bonding (grounding)and its purpose..Bbi on youtube has some good vids and kobg.com
Yeap...Its the 3m stuff with red backing..I covered the underside of the mount,after a good clean..Warmed up the dash and stuck it on..Be sure to push down on it to be sure it sticks..
@@craig_sez8534 I liked and subscribed to your page I have a 2022 cascadia daycab with factory installed antenna and coax the mount is on body up behind drivers door and the coax is crap a thin black piece going to the overhead and in 6 months time the connector already fell apart because I switch radios frequently. So I’ve been thinking along the same way too as you I rather have my radios on the dash like you did I’m in a company truck so I want to keep it clean I want to run my Wilson 2000 antenna so I need to get the mirror bracket mount and I’ll run my coax similarly how many feet of coax did you use? The Wilson calls for 18 ft and I thought about stretching it across the dash at windshield as you did and I like the foam tube idea to hide it. How has the bracket for antenna held up? I know your video is a few years old but a lot of similarities to the 2022. I just need to get that coax through the door jamb or firewall somehow Great video Thanks for sharing!!
@@iamkazie9401 To be honest i didnt keep useing the store bought,i had a local shop make me the exact but in stainless...Re the 18ft deal,its up to you but yes if you do use the 18 strech it across the dash as much as possible...Dont kink or bend it either...Im the only onenwho uses my truck and im running 11'4" i think is the length..
Dont remember a different ant bracket unless i was goin to try something unique... The black things on the coax are basically magnets designed to help reduce incomming electrical noise,they are called ferrite cores....
Still the same mount..I was given another mount and stud suggestion that i like but i gotta find and order them from the states..A stud called the big cat 208 by tram looks good..There is a bracket made of stainless that looks good but i need to call about it to see how much landed it will be..A radio tuner in az makes them..Supposed to mount on the last two styles of cascadia..
Because mostly the amount of metal in the nose side of these trks..Radio range going foward will be much shorter than goin to rear..The trl helps range behind you..Absolute best i get outta mine was 44 mi behind but anout 15-20 foward..
On my analyzer its a hair over 1..Radio shows more while moveing but im also putting more power through coax with radio vs an analyzer (1/4 watt)..So there will be a higher reading..
It would have been nice if it was brighter two-wheel we could actually see what you're playing at in the cab. This girl right here will love to see how you pop the pet plastic piece ofg
Pop which plastic piece....The fuse box side,you can just put your fingers under the word "Pull" and that takes care of that....On drivers side pillar...Open door,pull off the rubber seal(its not glued on,easy to replace)..The plastic on the pillar is attached via 1 bolt behind the lil plastic cover at the top of grab rail...Shoot me a reminder in a cpl days..When i get home about the 3rd of june ill be replaceing my coax so i can do a vid and hopefully its brighter..
@@roxb3731 remove the tiny plastic piece(just pulls off)at the top of grab rail..Remove bolt and pull away door rubber the pull plastic piece off by hand..
If you put a 102" whip on there with the Wilson 4" extension you will get a near flat SWR, that's assuming you're using a decent coax. B.T.W. it looks like you have a solid understanding of bonding your system.
Never skimp on bonding, it's the heart of your rig!
Its on a 10" riser now actually..Allows for more freq tuneing ..I dont tune via swr,resonance(x=0 or close to it)and resistance(r=50ohm or close to it) and swr will follow..
@@craig_sez8534 I'm running this antenna on 10, 11 and 12 meters, so the 4" riser seems to work the best for me. Although i do use the antenna tuner in my radio to compensate for SWR in the other bands.
@@Swoop180 Are you running that without any adjjstments and soley based on swr?? Im a bit anal about it with the know how i do have and like to tune specifically for when i tx/rec the most..Mind you im mostly on cb vs side band but i tuned in the middle of the band to kinda cover all the bases..Now im more local and when i unsieze my lock in my riser ill tune closer to 26965...I like the riser idea cause it gets me a lil taller and allows more tunability when im chattin alot somewhere..
@@Swoop180 There is a fella that has sence passed on but basically has same set up as mine..He ran the wilson 4" shaft and managed 70 mi on a barefoot stryker 955..Look for 70 mile cascadia or was it 74 mi..One ot the other..UA-cam vud was done by scot johnson..
@@Swoop180 Not a fan of so called tuners...Unless antenna changes length then the tuner just fools the radio...
2014 truck got out 2 miles on mirror mount and 5-10 miles on factory cab side mount. Plus it was fun to listen to the antennas slap the roof.
2018 truck got 1 mile max on mirror mount and quarter mile on in-roof antenna
2019 truck can't rx the guard shack on in-roof antenna and mirror mount gets about 3/4 mile back and half mile forward.
Get speaker buzz from power inverter too, nothing from fridge. Cb dash mount power tap works just as good as behind dash cover in my case. Gonna throw a ground cable on the mount to firewall just cuz I got one laying around.
Same firestik 2 tune tip and cobra 29 Ltd classic I've had for 5 years the trucks cb compatibility just keep getting worse.
Unless your inverter is a pure sine wave they will make noise..Cell chargers n such make noise..Try some ferrites to knock it down and confirm connections are good..Poor soldering and crimping will make it easy for leakage to..
I tested my radio with another guy..Got about 15ish mi foward and hair over 40 from behind..Plastic trucks..
Freightliner could install all of needed stuff, instead of creating this issue for all drivers.
@@dilshodsayfidi Its not just freightliner doin it..They all do..
What size bolt are those you have your ground straps on??
On the previous cascadias, that black plate is where the hydraulic clutch pedal is located. You have an automatic, therefore they have that space blocked off.. One quick question tho, where do you have your ground strap connected? I saw it briefly, but couldn't make out where the other end connects. I recently started driving a 19 cascadia, and now want to install my radio. It's a connex 3300HP with a Palomar 450HD on top. Need to figure out how to tap straight in to the batteries also..
I ran power n ground same route to batter with 10ga i think and used anderson quick disconnects...my ground straps were on each side of door hinge..Its electrically connecting door to cab. I have 3 in place now,two on top hinge and 1 on bottom..I think your gonna need more from door to cab and cab to chassie seeing your running amp...I would consider running some say 4ga from battery to amp...
In the vid called coax/power routeing vid..Skip to about the 5 minute mark and you will see my gnd straps..
@@craig_sez8534 ok. Thanks for the information!
When you ran the power and ground to the fuse block did you put inline fuses? And is there any interference or potential of shorting out the fuse block? I have recently gotten a brand new 21 cascadia which is leased and have also just bought a stryker 497hpc. I was told it would be best if it was run straight to the batteries but don't think boss is gonna allow that in case it could possibly void the warranty and or lease. And how did you connect it to the fuse panel? Thanks in advance!
If your boss thinks it will void warranty goin to batterys,why does he feel its ok goin to fuse panel??
Any electrical connection should have fuseable link of sorts.....
In my case i dont remember any interference from goin there but i did end up goin direct to battery with a fuseable link..I got a cb shop to install a 10ga direct inside my radio with anderson quick disconnect and approx 15 ft of wire to reach my batterys..
I would rather bugger up a radio or a battery than a trucks electrical....With so many sensors and and voltage/amps specifics in those sensors i feel its better to run it to battery..
If you do just be sure you have wire loom of sorts just incase your routeing can rub the outer caseing of the wireing..Also less chances of any other electrical interferences by goin to batterys...
Another option is called the west mountain power booster..Still wire it the same way but keeps continious voltage at the radio(doesnt drop any voltage when you key up which a slight drop in output of radio) and again has a fuseable link..
The boss ain't gonna know lol!! I'm gonna run 10g wires down to the batteries through some convoluted tubing so it looks legit and out of sight for the most part! I don't wanna fry any computers so batteries is honestly the best way to go!
@@keithclapp5090 watchin a bonding vid from bbi,he use a specific type of insulation tape to,i guess to keep it from rubbing..Gonna have to look into that myself..
So where did you run your coax thru the firewall
Explained in the vid..
Id like to see how u tapped into power by ur fuse box, i have same truck.
Directly to pwr and gnd that feeds the fuse box..
First time cb user bought a cobra in a 2017 freightliner cascadia and cannot figure it out any pointers its hooked and ready to go wondering so I need an antenna I cant hear drivers but it indicates they're talking
Is volume turned up..Is the squelch all the way off(turn counter clockwise)is rf gain all the way clockwise? Possible bad internal speaker
Yes it needs an antenna cause the built in antenna is not worth shit..Built in antenna is good for maybe a mile or two at best..
Volume is all the way up and I hear static and when i go to the weather station I cam hear it its fresh out the box RF is all the way clockwise what should I by and install any pointers I'm at a Loves
Did you ever end up wiring straight to the batteries beneath the driver-side door? If so, can you show the way you routed the wiring and where you got the wiring that would be needed for such a long run? Thanks!
Yeap to the battery..routed same as coax with a harness kit that has anderson quick connects..
@@craig_sez8534 What route did you take? A video of that would be awesome. I think I've found a viable option, but I'd love to see what you've come up with for power routing to the battery.
I assume you've put a fuse tap in line? What size fuse?
What terminal connectors are you using to connect to the batteries?
Just did a very basic vid to show rough routeing of power/coax on latest version of cascadia..It will take a few min to upload..
Just uploaded the vid..Didnt take anything apart but its a guide..
@@craig_sez8534 Ok yeah, I did something very similar with my coax yesterday. Found the same grommet you did but came into the cab lower down than the foam you pointed out. There's a hole near your left foot you can use but you have to remove the lower portion of the A pillar. And instead of going across the top of the dash, I sacrificed some skin on my knuckles. I routed the coax behind and just below the instrument cluster, behind the dash plate on the right side where they intend for your Qualcomm or whatever to go, and then down and out of the fuse box cover. My power is still a cigarette lighter because I didn't have time yesterday, nor the supplies. When I get home this weekend, I'll route the power to the battery the same way and also drill a hole in the tray where the radio sits to route the wires through there. I don't like the extra wire dangling over there on the passenger side. I prefer a "wire free" look as much as possible. I also built a plexiglass mount for the radio. It was initially made for the old style Cascadia I was recently driving so that I could mount the radio at an angle towards me on the overhead area, but without having to drill holes. I used 6 pieces of 15 lb Velcro to hold it up there. The nice thing about it though is I can reuse it here in the new style Cascadia. I'll see if I can do a video reply to yours to show all of this.
Where are you running your ground straps to?
Door hinges(door side to cab side),connected both hinges together..Then find a spot to go from cab to frame..
I actually just hooked up my stryker 655 in my cascadia with the metal mount on the mirror and a 5 foot skil shooter and had a 1.3 swr on 1 a 1.4 on 40 and a 1.0 on 20 so I don’t think I’m gonna need a ground strap after all
@@johnbriggs111 swr is not a tell tale as to how well ant works...Go study up on the term bonding (grounding)and its purpose..Bbi on youtube has some good vids and kobg.com
I have 2019 frightliner. And I would love see how you have the radio mounted. Did you just double sided tape to the mount?
Yeap...Its the 3m stuff with red backing..I covered the underside of the mount,after a good clean..Warmed up the dash and stuck it on..Be sure to push down on it to be sure it sticks..
You hooked the power behind the dash on the passenger side? Where it goes into the fuse box?
@@andrewfinch780 you can but i ended up have a bigger ga wire for pwr/gnd (8ga) and running direct to battery with quick disconnects
@@craig_sez8534 I liked and subscribed to your page I have a 2022 cascadia daycab with factory installed antenna and coax the mount is on body up behind drivers door and the coax is crap a thin black piece going to the overhead and in 6 months time the connector already fell apart because I switch radios frequently. So I’ve been thinking along the same way too as you I rather have my radios on the dash like you did I’m in a company truck so I want to keep it clean I want to run my Wilson 2000 antenna so I need to get the mirror bracket mount and I’ll run my coax similarly how many feet of coax did you use? The Wilson calls for 18 ft and I thought about stretching it across the dash at windshield as you did and I like the foam tube idea to hide it. How has the bracket for antenna held up? I know your video is a few years old but a lot of similarities to the 2022. I just need to get that coax through the door jamb or firewall somehow Great video Thanks for sharing!!
@@iamkazie9401 To be honest i didnt keep useing the store bought,i had a local shop make me the exact but in stainless...Re the 18ft deal,its up to you but yes if you do use the 18 strech it across the dash as much as possible...Dont kink or bend it either...Im the only onenwho uses my truck and im running 11'4" i think is the length..
What other bracket for antenna are you going to buy? What is they black accorn on the antenna wire?
Dont remember a different ant bracket unless i was goin to try something unique...
The black things on the coax are basically magnets designed to help reduce incomming electrical noise,they are called ferrite cores....
In the area of 1.2-1.4..My resonance on 19 is a lil high though..On my analyzer my resonance is 6..Needs to be no more than 2 for my likeing..
What antenna mount are you using now?
Still the same mount..I was given another mount and stud suggestion that i like but i gotta find and order them from the states..A stud called the big cat 208 by tram looks good..There is a bracket made of stainless that looks good but i need to call about it to see how much landed it will be..A radio tuner in az makes them..Supposed to mount on the last two styles of cascadia..
What tape did you use on the radio to hold it the dash?
Re different ant bracket....I ment that it would be same bracket but with proper spacers instead of the temp spacers(i used stainless nuts)used...
Because mostly the amount of metal in the nose side of these trks..Radio range going foward will be much shorter than goin to rear..The trl helps range behind you..Absolute best i get outta mine was 44 mi behind but anout 15-20 foward..
Its just dbl sided tape...Its grey in color with bright red backing on the sticky sides..Sorry dont remember the brand..
What swr reading are you getting ?
On my analyzer its a hair over 1..Radio shows more while moveing but im also putting more power through coax with radio vs an analyzer (1/4 watt)..So there will be a higher reading..
It would have been nice if it was brighter two-wheel we could actually see what you're playing at in the cab. This girl right here will love to see how you pop the pet plastic piece ofg
Pop which plastic piece....The fuse box side,you can just put your fingers under the word "Pull" and that takes care of that....On drivers side pillar...Open door,pull off the rubber seal(its not glued on,easy to replace)..The plastic on the pillar is attached via 1 bolt behind the lil plastic cover at the top of grab rail...Shoot me a reminder in a cpl days..When i get home about the 3rd of june ill be replaceing my coax so i can do a vid and hopefully its brighter..
How you popped off the side plastic piece, between the driver door and the windshield
@@roxb3731 remove the tiny plastic piece(just pulls off)at the top of grab rail..Remove bolt and pull away door rubber the pull plastic piece off by hand..
Done..