Відео

Dont cut your limiter,not a tech but every tech thats worth a penny will tsay its a bad idea..Yes braided wire works its way to frame..Its not so much a ground but a bond of many metal pieces together as one so that ant has a better shoot off and rec point.. As for the bird perch,usually crap,buy brackets that have more connect points to make it stronger...passenger side will always get loose cause of wind drag on ant and the direction of threading...Opposite for drivers side,it will over tighten..

@craig_sez8534 better to go a bit more $$$ on stainless steel rather than aluminum for each piece?

@@DWGumby-eg6ch steel is stronger but not as good as a conductor..Next trk im goin with a slightly thicker alum..

Short as possible but 11'2" i think 1/2 way through the cb band is what a coax tunes to..I got a formula for it out in my trk somewhere..

Thanks! I have a Rig 35! I'm running 12' try to get swr down. I think I have a grounding issue.

@@Keydownkang_1266 If swr is solved by coax length you have issues elsewhere....Like need to do what called bonding....Look at the all parameters page and not just swr page of your 35...Gives more detailed info...

Door hinges(door side to cab side),connected both hinges together..Then find a spot to go from cab to frame..

I actually just hooked up my stryker 655 in my cascadia with the metal mount on the mirror and a 5 foot skil shooter and had a 1.3 swr on 1 a 1.4 on 40 and a 1.0 on 20 so I don’t think I’m gonna need a ground strap after all

@@johnbriggs111 swr is not a tell tale as to how well ant works...Go study up on the term bonding (grounding)and its purpose..Bbi on youtube has some good vids and kobg.com

Congrats..The 55 might have been a better option with a few more options,depends on budget...I went the 35 route at 1st myself..

@@craig_sez8534 yeah, I think I should have. I doubt DX Engineering will trade it, but I've only had it a couple days.

@@jrichtruckincbtips well cant hurt to ask and if bank book says you can,grab a 55 and sell the 35 later..Basically what i did....Lots in the forums who would grab it..

I try to keep it simple as i have learned and understand stuff..Im just a do it n try it kinda fella...Mind you i get help and i ask questions as well so i jjst try n learn and pass on what i think to be correct and simple like jrich does...He does some good stuff to..Look up k0bg.com as well,lotsa book learnin stuff there as well..More techs to look up is bbi,smoking joes(does a simple explaination of grounding(bonding)an antenna..

Looking for what?

If your referring to a rig expert then go direct to said company or in my case dx engineering..

I'm looking for a reputable CB shop

@@paulbull2880 Hard to find a good one...

Explained in the vid..

Already have some steel ones..Got a cpl straps done but been to cold to finish..

Try unhooking coax from radio and with a multi meter take one end (on ohm setting)and test on center pin with other on the ground side of same pl259..If you get a # other than zero then its telling you how well grounded you are..Take antenna off and test same way with ant,one probe of meter on the gnd side and other on top side of ant,maybe its the crap stud you maybe useing..Its another possibility that cb meter is crapped out..

In some ways...1st its taller overall so it helps with tx/rec..2nd your coil is higher up so again it helps..3rd they are a 1/3 the price of a browning...Draw back is that they flex by far more cause they are not a solid like a browning..To keep from all the flexing(which changes ant tune slightly electrically)you will need to grab about 3ft of a semi firm indoor water pipe and slide over it to help strengthen the base.. The browning is by far stronger and will likely last longer,take more power but at the same time might hold up longer..That style such as the browning,10k,monkey made,k40,wilson 2000 all work well but if your running a areo style truck with low mount mirrors then its not the best choice...If your in say an older classic style thennthey tend to do much much better..Putting any antenna on the roof of a car for example well it comes down to the ant build and abilitys..Those big coil ant hold back more wind and make more noise from the wind as well...When i compared my 102" and skip shooter they were close(strictly goin by my analyzer)but the 102 would go higher and lower in freq...I remember reading about a predator 10k barely looseing out to a 102" by the smallest amount but to be honest i have not seen anything re the browning performance.....Bottom line is that there is no 1 ant fits all but the ant is more important than getting a radio tweeked for a few more watts of output...A 3ft ant on a big radio will work much harder and get out less than a basic radio on a taller ant..

@@craig_sez8534 I had k40s but took them off because annoying drone now I have 4’ firestik until my 6’ skip shooters come how do you feel about the 6’ SS ON A 2021 t680? Over the antennas I’ve been using

They will work great,might be a bit tall for height restrictions..I would try and chk overall height and watch how much they bend in the wind..If they do grab some of that semi flexable water pipe..Also look up a fella named either j rich or jay rich,he has some nice vids on bonding that specific style truck..A really good vid on bonding(ant grounding)is from a amp builder named bbi...

@@craig_sez8534 thank you

How would this stack up against a Stryker a10 mag mount ?

If your boss thinks it will void warranty goin to batterys,why does he feel its ok goin to fuse panel?? Any electrical connection should have fuseable link of sorts..... In my case i dont remember any interference from goin there but i did end up goin direct to battery with a fuseable link..I got a cb shop to install a 10ga direct inside my radio with anderson quick disconnect and approx 15 ft of wire to reach my batterys.. I would rather bugger up a radio or a battery than a trucks electrical....With so many sensors and and voltage/amps specifics in those sensors i feel its better to run it to battery.. If you do just be sure you have wire loom of sorts just incase your routeing can rub the outer caseing of the wireing..Also less chances of any other electrical interferences by goin to batterys... Another option is called the west mountain power booster..Still wire it the same way but keeps continious voltage at the radio(doesnt drop any voltage when you key up which a slight drop in output of radio) and again has a fuseable link..

The boss ain't gonna know lol!! I'm gonna run 10g wires down to the batteries through some convoluted tubing so it looks legit and out of sight for the most part! I don't wanna fry any computers so batteries is honestly the best way to go!

@@keithclapp5090 watchin a bonding vid from bbi,he use a specific type of insulation tape to,i guess to keep it from rubbing..Gonna have to look into that myself..

I just ordered a kit fr dx engineering that comes with a half dozen or so. I put 2 on that physically fit,ill peel one off and look for a #,dont remember one being on them..

Just checked j and no # on them..I bought the kit from dx as mentioned above..Lmr 240 is od is .24" so i would assume your coax brand is pretty near that.. I think this is the kit i bought a cpl yrs back..It has a few different sizes.. www.dxengineering.com/parts/dxe-csb31-combo

@@craig_sez8534 it says they are 31's on that link optimal for HF and VHF.

@@jrichtruckincbtips im just guessing j,i bought them a cpl yrs back..Just like a paychk,memory fades lol..

@@craig_sez8534 yeah mine too, but I didn't realize there was a number associated with the chokes till recently.

Still the same mount..I was given another mount and stud suggestion that i like but i gotta find and order them from the states..A stud called the big cat 208 by tram looks good..There is a bracket made of stainless that looks good but i need to call about it to see how much landed it will be..A radio tuner in az makes them..Supposed to mount on the last two styles of cascadia..

Someone put some info up on truckers report that i have yet looked at..

Verdict on what?

What have you came up with. It’s been a while since you posted. So I was curious on how your system turned out.

@@luckymunkey77. Not done anything..Been bjsy with house stuff..weather has not been decient enough to do much anyways till last few days..House stuff comes 1st then toys..

Gonna source out some braded strap material and try to find a cpl skip shooters and even try something different with another 102"..Expensive as hell to ship antennas...

Well every newer truck will need some bonding....Start there..Anytime ya have questions,throw them at me and we will figure them out..

I bought more cheese for your whine.. Dont like my vids for any reason,stop watching,its just that simple.

Robbie boy..its called a run on or on ramp,rest area,scale lot...lotsa different types of cams and mounts....Try google to see whats out there...Just might be more in this world than what you think you have in your head..

Yes i know the higher the # the better..

I say in the vid that it was higher while parked(around 28) meaning it was better..But what changes is the shape of ant(bends and electrically gets longer throwing off tune)..The rec is also affected by what im driveing over..So with ant flex and what im physically driver over it can lessen the rec for a few seconds here and there.....Been kinda watching those #'s change and now ill be allowing for the change and tune that out to some degree..Ill be tieing some string to the tip,pulling antenna back as if in driveing conditions and see if i can tune a lil better to almost equal a static tune..

I ran power n ground same route to batter with 10ga i think and used anderson quick disconnects...my ground straps were on each side of door hinge..Its electrically connecting door to cab. I have 3 in place now,two on top hinge and 1 on bottom..I think your gonna need more from door to cab and cab to chassie seeing your running amp...I would consider running some say 4ga from battery to amp...

In the vid called coax/power routeing vid..Skip to about the 5 minute mark and you will see my gnd straps..

@@craig_sez8534 ok. Thanks for the information!

Tunes same way..Just move the nail up or down as needed..I actually have a 102" on at the moment..

@@craig_sez8534 ok so it has a set screw on the tip to allow the nail to move up or down? I really appreciate your time thnk you.

@@erichammel4926 yeppers....

@@erichammel4926 Dont remember the size but its a tiny allen key..

@@craig_sez8534 awesome I drive a 19 cascadia & I'm having a hellva time with this Wilson 2k, in my previous trk(same yr & model had goodish swr but not in this trk. I know I should do the analyzer but ill5be ok if I can get swr to a 1.5. Again thank you & God bless you

boob_luver@ hotmail.com Im not a tech or anything,just a guy learning as i go...I dont have a problem helping cause a few guys have helped me..

Why?

There is a way to tune at ant feed point but i have yet to get it to stick in my head..I tune via radio side of coax..My coax is 11'4" i think..

Its on a 10" riser now actually..Allows for more freq tuneing ..I dont tune via swr,resonance(x=0 or close to it)and resistance(r=50ohm or close to it) and swr will follow..

@@craig_sez8534 I'm running this antenna on 10, 11 and 12 meters, so the 4" riser seems to work the best for me. Although i do use the antenna tuner in my radio to compensate for SWR in the other bands.

@@Swoop180 Are you running that without any adjjstments and soley based on swr?? Im a bit anal about it with the know how i do have and like to tune specifically for when i tx/rec the most..Mind you im mostly on cb vs side band but i tuned in the middle of the band to kinda cover all the bases..Now im more local and when i unsieze my lock in my riser ill tune closer to 26965...I like the riser idea cause it gets me a lil taller and allows more tunability when im chattin alot somewhere..

@@Swoop180 There is a fella that has sence passed on but basically has same set up as mine..He ran the wilson 4" shaft and managed 70 mi on a barefoot stryker 955..Look for 70 mile cascadia or was it 74 mi..One ot the other..UA-cam vud was done by scot johnson..

@@Swoop180 Not a fan of so called tuners...Unless antenna changes length then the tuner just fools the radio...

Lotsa that already oit there..Think i showed what worked in other vids..

Same boat here. 955 tuned and antenna system is crazy. I’m thinking my coax is radiating and I’m loosing it along the way

Yeap...Its the 3m stuff with red backing..I covered the underside of the mount,after a good clean..Warmed up the dash and stuck it on..Be sure to push down on it to be sure it sticks..

You hooked the power behind the dash on the passenger side? Where it goes into the fuse box?

@@andrewfinch780 you can but i ended up have a bigger ga wire for pwr/gnd (8ga) and running direct to battery with quick disconnects

@@craig_sez8534 I liked and subscribed to your page I have a 2022 cascadia daycab with factory installed antenna and coax the mount is on body up behind drivers door and the coax is crap a thin black piece going to the overhead and in 6 months time the connector already fell apart because I switch radios frequently. So I’ve been thinking along the same way too as you I rather have my radios on the dash like you did I’m in a company truck so I want to keep it clean I want to run my Wilson 2000 antenna so I need to get the mirror bracket mount and I’ll run my coax similarly how many feet of coax did you use? The Wilson calls for 18 ft and I thought about stretching it across the dash at windshield as you did and I like the foam tube idea to hide it. How has the bracket for antenna held up? I know your video is a few years old but a lot of similarities to the 2022. I just need to get that coax through the door jamb or firewall somehow Great video Thanks for sharing!!

@@iamkazie9401 To be honest i didnt keep useing the store bought,i had a local shop make me the exact but in stainless...Re the 18ft deal,its up to you but yes if you do use the 18 strech it across the dash as much as possible...Dont kink or bend it either...Im the only onenwho uses my truck and im running 11'4" i think is the length..

Fine tune cb..

Just waiting on mine to get here, thanks brother!!

Don't your daddy tell you his raidos don't get hot?

@@Robert-WeThePeople They do when the sun beams in the window all day long..

Wire brush..

Its cause dealers and builders dont care about the cb or how its installed..Day cabs usually have ant on the wall..Door the door mirror mount and straps as in video..Make sure the mateing surfaces are all clean,same with threadlock on bolts..

Use a long top loaded ant..Dont bother with the big coil antenna or the wilson 5000 type either...Use an multi meter to chk your ant gnd.

Only getting a 0.3V drop when keying but that could be because of the butt splicers I used to connect my cb plug to the 12 awg cables

Nothin wrong with a 1.5 but always work for lower...Whats more important i feel is resonance..If your r=50ohms and your x= 0 you will have a really good swr....Get an analyzer on it and do it with doors closed in a open area.. Am i to assume you have it mounted on a door mirror,put some fresh braided straps on the door himges..Clean the bolt of paint and or thread lock ect..One side of braided gnd strap on door side of hinge and other side to cab side of hinge....If you dont already use one get the hd alumium ant stud...Much stronger...If you do notice the lil divit in the bolt head..I suggest you take a small ga single strand of wire and roll it up to partly fill the divit,it helps the ctr pin of your coax connection...Discovered that myself..

If its not to late re the power wire..I woulda went 10ga..

@@grtech2011 i kinda struggle with that to..Hopefully later this summer ill cut the ends and do a better connection..Many times the connectors are junk as well and only crimped..Ill get some of the nice copper ends and solder them in rather than crimp..Add some shrink wrap on the ends to keep crap outta there to.. I dont run from fuse box anymore,direct to batterys..

@@craig_sez8534 ill have to look into all that next time I get to the house so I can properly solder my power cables and have all of my tools available to me (only have a basic socket set with no wrenches on the truck). By then I should have enough money saved up for an analyzer too kinda blew my wad on the radio set up lol. Where do you pick up the door straps? I didn't see any at the cb shop I bought my rig from.

Is volume turned up..Is the squelch all the way off(turn counter clockwise)is rf gain all the way clockwise? Possible bad internal speaker

Yes it needs an antenna cause the built in antenna is not worth shit..Built in antenna is good for maybe a mile or two at best..

Volume is all the way up and I hear static and when i go to the weather station I cam hear it its fresh out the box RF is all the way clockwise what should I by and install any pointers I'm at a Loves

Ciaran..I work just fine....Solution to heat on the radio is simple.. 1st get some cardboard and cut to fit top cover of radio... 2nd Pick up a roll of reflective tap(i used tuck tape)and cover one side cardboard.... 3rd Buy some furniture leg stick on felt pads and stick to underside of cardboard(the side without reflective tape)..The felt pads will slightly raise cardboard off radio cover allowing air to move... 3rd use a bungie cord or long rubber bands to hold cardboard to radio.. Done..I think i showed that in one of my vids..

Just uploaded a late night quick vid on what im doin to get the sun off my radio

Craig_sez if truck manufacturers made bigger cubby holes it would definitely help but that seems like a great idea to stop the Radio cooking

Craig_sez you ought to make a video would surely help drivers radios cooking up

@@ciaranmcmanus3840 no air circulation in cubby holes..

Yeap i know how to route the leads and yes they are fused...That was a quicky set up..I went from drivers side pillar area down to battery with 10ga and anderson quick disconnects and fused..

Use the connectors based on what power wire you buy..10 ga wire with 10ga connectors..Im drawing a total blank on the clip on magnets correct name and where i purchased...Its been a cpl yrs sence i bought the kit of a bunch of different sized magnets for different electrical usesge..

If your cobra is stayin stock i would be more than happy with 10ga direct from radio..Get a tech to solder it direct to radio vs adding to original wireing..

@@craig_sez8534 So you're using some sort of magnetic terminals to connect your wiring to the batteries?

I was rowseing theough my truck for something and found a book..It was from dx engineering and it was a kit of 8 or 12 i think ferrite beads...Some to fit coax,power wires n such..

@@craig_sez8534 The following provides convincing evidence that you should not put those on coax: forums.radioreference.com/threads/ferrite-filters.348403/ I have read that might help to put them around the power cord instead.

Yeap to the battery..routed same as coax with a harness kit that has anderson quick connects..

@@craig_sez8534 What route did you take? A video of that would be awesome. I think I've found a viable option, but I'd love to see what you've come up with for power routing to the battery. I assume you've put a fuse tap in line? What size fuse? What terminal connectors are you using to connect to the batteries?

Just did a very basic vid to show rough routeing of power/coax on latest version of cascadia..It will take a few min to upload..

Just uploaded the vid..Didnt take anything apart but its a guide..

@@craig_sez8534 Ok yeah, I did something very similar with my coax yesterday. Found the same grommet you did but came into the cab lower down than the foam you pointed out. There's a hole near your left foot you can use but you have to remove the lower portion of the A pillar. And instead of going across the top of the dash, I sacrificed some skin on my knuckles. I routed the coax behind and just below the instrument cluster, behind the dash plate on the right side where they intend for your Qualcomm or whatever to go, and then down and out of the fuse box cover. My power is still a cigarette lighter because I didn't have time yesterday, nor the supplies. When I get home this weekend, I'll route the power to the battery the same way and also drill a hole in the tray where the radio sits to route the wires through there. I don't like the extra wire dangling over there on the passenger side. I prefer a "wire free" look as much as possible. I also built a plexiglass mount for the radio. It was initially made for the old style Cascadia I was recently driving so that I could mount the radio at an angle towards me on the overhead area, but without having to drill holes. I used 6 pieces of 15 lb Velcro to hold it up there. The nice thing about it though is I can reuse it here in the new style Cascadia. I'll see if I can do a video reply to yours to show all of this.

Dont remember a different ant bracket unless i was goin to try something unique... The black things on the coax are basically magnets designed to help reduce incomming electrical noise,they are called ferrite cores....

Re different ant bracket....I ment that it would be same bracket but with proper spacers instead of the temp spacers(i used stainless nuts)used...

Pop which plastic piece....The fuse box side,you can just put your fingers under the word "Pull" and that takes care of that....On drivers side pillar...Open door,pull off the rubber seal(its not glued on,easy to replace)..The plastic on the pillar is attached via 1 bolt behind the lil plastic cover at the top of grab rail...Shoot me a reminder in a cpl days..When i get home about the 3rd of june ill be replaceing my coax so i can do a vid and hopefully its brighter..

How you popped off the side plastic piece, between the driver door and the windshield

@@roxb3731 remove the tiny plastic piece(just pulls off)at the top of grab rail..Remove bolt and pull away door rubber the pull plastic piece off by hand..

Guess..

Well im thinkin a riser 10"-12"as mentioned in a vid to make it more tuneable higher and lower to work with my stryker..It will tune nicely down to about 24500 and up to 29 or 30 mhz..

Unless your inverter is a pure sine wave they will make noise..Cell chargers n such make noise..Try some ferrites to knock it down and confirm connections are good..Poor soldering and crimping will make it easy for leakage to.. I tested my radio with another guy..Got about 15ish mi foward and hair over 40 from behind..Plastic trucks..

To much of a voltage drop cause its a poor quality and wrong ga..I went and made up a 10ga and went to fuse panel supply..Not even sure if that power is regulated so ill some day go battery direct.

That’s how I hooked up my Stryker too. I could never find a way to run the wires through the firewall to the battery .