How to Mount a Mowing Deck to a Cub Cadet 149
Вставка
- Опубліковано 13 жов 2024
- Given all of the other press I've given the 149 lately, I thought it might be nice to illustrate how to install a mowing deck on to one, or any other wide frame or 1x9/1x7, etc Cub Cadet for folks that may have never done it before.
Below are flags from the video should you be watching on a device that doesn't support them:
00:05 The playlist for all of the Cub Cadet 149 videos
• Playlist: Cub Cadet 149
00:48 Where I illustrate how to mount the deck carrier and mule drive:
TBL 26 - Mule Drive Pulley Replacement (Sorta...)
• TBL 26 - Mule Drive Pu...
Links:
3/8" x 78" Kevlar Belt ► amzn.to/3sYvEQi
3/8" x 77" Kevlar Belt ► amzn.to/38lZFle
Want to contact me? info@TheBrokenLife.net
Perfect video by the way!
Thanks!
Awesome thanks cause I never touched any linkage.
Unless I'm going crazy (which is always an option)...
You have to disconnect that linkage from the rock shaft at the PTO to replace the deck drive belt. If you were able to slip the new belt between the engagement arm and the PTO without doing so, then there's probably not a button in there anymore. If it was working before, you may have accidentally broken it off while replacing the belt. The original fiber buttons are very brittle so that's fairly easy to do. I generally prefer the bronze aftermarket ones for that reason.
Without seeing it, that's my best guess.
Ok I’m getting now. Found a diagram of my pro and the button is definitely missing!
The good news is that no one mis-adjusted anything on purpose. The button just broke off/fell out.
Order a couple of bronze ones off of eBay so you always have a spare (they wear out). It's easiest to remove the rock shaft from the tractor, press the button in with a bench vise, and then reinstall the shaft.
Quick question... Should the V part of the belt sit in the grooved part of the PTO pulley? I can't tell in your video how it's sitting on that pulley.
Yes.
The Broken Life; I have a model 1860 Cub Cadet. It does not appear it’s ever had a deck on it or all the components have been removed. What parts should
1. Be on the mower so a mowing deck can be installed
2. There is no lever/handle to engage or disengage the deck
3. No deck bracket that your pins locked into
I’ve been all over the internet trying to find answers and all I can find is part replacement or instruction videos for mowers equipped with everything and the deck is just installed.
Basically I need to know what parts should be on the mower and then this will allow a mower deck to be attached. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Yours is 2 (or more?) generations newer than mine and I don't have any experience with them. I do know that on those models there are multiple different decks (meaning completely different, not just different sizes) and they could have different mounting systems too. Yours probably also has an electric PTO (that became standard on the generation after my 149) so you wouldn't have the mechanical engagement lever.
Speaking in broad terms, what you're looking for is a deck carrier/hanger assembly, a mule drive (which is probably integrated into the carrier), a deck that matches them, and a belt.
Your model series is colloquially referred to as a "cyclops". You may actually have better look searching for information with that search term.
Its been my experience in the past when dealing with my models that it's actually cheaper to buy another tractor with a blown up motor or some other major defect, but has all of the parts you need, than it is to source the parts separately.
@@TheBrokenLife thanks for the info. It’s very helpful and gives me a better understanding of it.
@@Themparktycoon2world You're welcome. Good luck with it! As I understand it, those are nice machines.
Great video! I stupidly had mine crossed and it didn't like that. Another alternative belt I've been usings is the D&D PowerDrive 3V780 which averages around $10 w/free shipping.
Thanks! I've used some of the D&D belts before and I agree that they seem fine. Mine does seem to prefer a 77" belt for whatever reason though.
Just remembered my overdrive pulley on the deck. That's why 77" for me.
He just solved a real head scratcher, .. I now know that my belt must straddle that left hanger !!!
Glad I could help! 👍
I just replaced that belt and the deck blades won’t disengage. The blades are turning when I try to start my 149! What did I do wrong?
Something is forcing the PTO clutch to remain engaged. Did you remember to reconnect the linkage?
For sure? Where is it located?
There’s a long rod on the right or passenger side but I think that for height adjustment? Either way that is reconnected.
I noticed there is no resistance in the engagement lever not that there was much before; but none now.
@@cwwestern1 That rod should connect the engagement handle lever (on the left side of the tractor... it bridges over to the right) to the mechanism that pushes on the center of the PTO on the front of the motor. Since you are feeling no resistance on the handle, you may have altered that adjustment or your PTO button fell out/apart while you were working. In short, the button should be pushing on the center of the PTO clutch when the handle is in the "released" (rearward) position, and just barely not touching it when it's in the "run" (forward) position.
I have a video called: TBL 28 - Cub Cadet 149 Annual Service / Preventative Maintenance Guide!
...and there is a time stamp in that video for inspecting/adjusting your PTO. It should give you the general idea of how things should look.
PS: The handle on the right is to raise and lower the hydraulics, but there is no linkage for it. That handle integrated directly with the hydraulic block bolted to the dash tower.
I just bought a 147 and it has the 48 inch batwing deck. The belt keeps comming off and i noticed the belt doesnt like to twist and is very stiff causing it to come off the pully. Is there a belt you recommend?
I use the aramid belts made by Oregon. But, you may also have the incorrect mule drive, or some other issue, that is causing problems. I also tend to prefer my belts about 1" shorter than factory.
@The Broken Life thank you so much. I got this with once in shorter and it works like a charm!
Sweet! 👍
Excellent!
I'm curious if its the same on a 104 with a 48" deck. I'll have to go inspect tomorrow, if it is the same deck and pully set up might be the same belts I need!
I'm pretty sure your 104 is a "narrow frame" tractor and I believe those use a completely different mule drive assembly (or at least the 2 I've been around do... I _think_ my Grandpa's first Cub, my 149 being his second, _is_ a 104) so I don't know. What I suggest is you take a length of string/rope/wire and run it through your belt routing, measure it, and then buy belts locally at that dimension and +1"/-1" of it and see how it looks until you're happy. I'm reasonably sure you still have 3/8" pulleys. Places like TSC, Rural King, etc carry proper implement belts in stock. If those are way out of your travels, you could explain to the folks at a place like Autozone what you're trying to do and they likely won't have a problem with you returning all 3 when you're done so you can order a proper AG belt somewhere else.
@@TheBrokenLife Ah okay, yes I do have a local TSC and as well as a John Deere dealer (they might be offended at my request howerver haha) I'll take a closer look tomorrow in the daylight, I think its a 1968 model year, not 100% sure. But the string idea sounds like a good plan.
I think our 102 is a '65-ish. It's the only tractor my Grandpa ever bought new.
Lots of yellow parts have been bought at the green store before. There are lots of things on a Cub that Deere also used and a lot of the time it's cheaper to get it from Deere (like virtually all of the time). They won't be offended as the only green they really see is in your pocket. ;)
@@TheBrokenLife haha thats a good point. I didn't realize but the guy gave me 2 new belts with the tractor so I'm all set for a while. I guess the deck I have is from a different tractor ( 482 U1116 ) is the tag on it. So far i pulled the idler pully off as it was frozen, so I'll have to order a new one? The center blade spindle spins, but not very easily so I'm not sure if I should try re-packing it with grease or just try and order a new set of bearings for it. But its good to know that John Deere share some of the same parts, that should make it easier to find these things.
@@gittyupalice96 Sweet! You might want to measure them before you install them just so you know what you need later on.
I'm not too familiar with narrow frames or decks other 44A/50As (Dad's had his narrow frames disabled and hidden by junk for nearly 30 years now), but I suspect your spindles have grease zerks on them so you shouldn't have to tear it down to grease them up. In regard to your idler, you may be able to press the old bearing out, get the numbers off of it, and get a replacement from NAPA or McMaster if you want. However, as I recall, the idlers for 44A/50A decks are pretty cheap ($20?) so you may not want to bother with it. Also, if your deck is looking more and more like it's going to need a lot of help, you can often times buy decks in really nice shape for very reasonable prices on your local classifieds (Marketplace, Craigslist, etc). I've bought 2 50As for about $100/ea in the past. Really, you can buy entire tractors for what a few parts will cost. That's one of my largest frustrations with mine: the parts costs are astronomical yet the tractors aren't worth much in good condition. Just kinda have to do it for either the use or the love as the money is gone forever when you get into these things.
As regards green parts for yellow tractors, the down side is you're going to have to be your own interchange manual since the Deere dealer can't pull part numbers for your Cub. Generally speaking this all works best for Kohler parts since Kohler motors use their own part numbers across applications. FWIW, NAPA has a good inventory of Kohler stuff too and they _can_ look stuff up, but it's all in the paper books so you may be there for awhile.
Good luck with it all. Some day, way out in the future, I'll probably end up touching a wrench or two to our 102 as well.
Neat video, it's interesting that the OEM belt is too long. Oh, reviews for the Last of Us part 2 got published today. More than one review said it had too much violence in it.
Could be the new belts aren't of the same quality that they once were and are more prone to stretching. Who knows? If you read the forums and such it appears I'm the only guy with the problem, but I have the same problem with 2 different, but very similar, Cubs so...? I'm not too keen to pay $40 for a $20 belt anyhow. ;)
A zombie game that's too violent? The world truly has gone mad! FWIW, I'm playing the hell out of Days Gone and I'm likely to platinum it this coming week. Well worth what I paid for it and now it's marked down to $20.
Great video. Would you happen to know of a spindle replacement? I have the same deck. Two spindles are original and work great. One just went out. Do you know of a replacement? Any info would be much appreciated. My deck number is 441 u-1111. Thanks.
Good video but your not mentioning that this is NOT the correct deck or mule drive for this tractor. This is a much newer set up for that 149 and you must have changed the PTO pulley to a wider one to fit the newer deck belt which is much thicker.
I believe you're mistaken. That is a 44A deck, which is the correct deck for a 149. What you're thinking of would be a 44C deck, which does run a wider pulley configuration and a wider belt. I own 2 44As and 2 50As and all are 1/2" belt powered.
The mule drive on mine could be from anything I suppose, but it's what's been on the tractor since we got it in the 1990s. The PTO clutch is a factory original rebuilt unit and the idler pulleys are replacements from Stens, all in 1/2" size (as is the drive belt).
A 44/50C deck would require a 5/8" belt.
@@TheBrokenLife ah ok. In the video the pulleys look BIG and the mule drive and frame are definitely off the later machine and I thought all came with the bigger pulleys. So maybe they didn't or someone changed them to use the older decks. So I assumed it was the newer deck as well, like a 44C. My apologies.
@@captainedc No problem.
I've heard lots of things about mule drives over the years. So much so that I don't really know what to believe. What's on my 149 is the same (as far as I can tell) as what's on my 1650 and they both came with A decks. It's entirely possible that _both_ of them are "wrong" in the same way, but they both work.