Olive wood is great for softwood carving. Great barter-trade item with woodcarvers in the area. Keep the seeds, as a continued olive planted orchard as a fruit/nut/wood tree nursery sales as future income. Olive trees on the fence lines are great windbreaks, providing great tweety nesting sites.
Thanks for the video, we put in new trees each year we added Apple and Cherry late fall I am happy yo say they have along very well this spring. We have some 20 - 50 year old walnuts and Hickory we have added English Walnuts and Pecan but those are really for my Grandchildren unlikely I will be around when they start producing nuts.
We have live oak here. We planted s pistach tree... my daughter had to for her K12 science class and that's the only thing that was left at Lowe's. It does not produce nuts. It was doing well until my five year old broke the entire top off yesterday, after being told repeatedly to leave it alone! 😕
Hi Jared. I don't want to Monday morning quarterback here, but I am curious. I love the auger use and honestly wish I had one for the many fruit trees I have put into my homestead. I have found in research and in practice that trees planed in the fall do much better in the long run, your weather, summer in particular, is much more harsh than it is here in PA. Are you concerned at all about planting this late into spring? I have had much more success when planting trees if I dig out about 3 feet in all directions so the roots have an easier path to travel. This decreases the shock and gives better opportunity for root growth, and may prevent girdling in the long run. Also, I do not amend the soil at all for the first year as this encourages the roots to spread out and look for what it needs, ultimately making it stronger. The second season, I will amend with a few inches of compost in a large area, about the size of the canopy, at least until the tree grows to a significant height, then I figure it is on its own. In my mind, the first year of a newly planted tree is focused on growing the root and not the tree. It took me a while, and a few bad tree experiences to figure this one out as I have always tried to grow soil and the plants (fruits and vegetables) are simply the byproduct. Growing trees are a little different animal in some respect. I have grown to love bare root trees, planted in the fall, although I still plant some potted as well because I want to bear fruit a little sooner. In the long run, after about 5 years, there is little difference in my potted vs bare root tree production. I have never planted with fruit on the tree though. I am concerned about energy going to the fruit and not the root base. Are you planning on pinching off any fruit this year to sacrifice for the greater good so to speak? I would liken this thought to strawberries or asparagus, its best to not take any fruit for the first year or so (or three regarding asparagus) so the plant can build a solid root structure, and the reward can be reaped with a healthier plant and better harvests in the future. Again, please don't take this as criticism or scrutiny, I only want to understand your thought process when making these decisions, especially when you live in a climate significantly different than mine. Please don't let my poor explanations cloud the message, I simply would like to understand your thought process when it comes to planting trees on your homestead. Thanks for sharing this Jared, I really enjoy the discussion on your process as much as the actual task.
Dave, I totally get where you are coming from and don't take your message wrong at all. As it happens, I dislike bare root trees, which, as you point out, need to be planted while the tree is still dormant and during the dormant seasons. However, I'd much rather plant a tree that hasn't had it's roots disturbed and exposed so badly. Is that right or wrong - heck if I know - but it is how I feel about it. So, with that, all I'm really doing is removing a plastic barrier and adding more soil. No, I won't be pinching any fruit - no good reason here - just don't want to, but I will prune and shape it when it goes dormant this winter. As for the 3' radius - that sure does sound great, but it also sounds like a lot of back-fill, which I don't have right now (besides putting the hard clay-like dirt back). I'd generally agree with your approach ($100 hole for a $10 tree), but I think we'll get the results we want without it. My thought process - Put the tree that is already is soil in more soil, fertilize, mulch, water and wait.
Love those little things
Olive wood is great for softwood carving. Great barter-trade item with woodcarvers in the area. Keep the seeds, as a continued olive planted orchard as a fruit/nut/wood tree nursery sales as future income. Olive trees on the fence lines are great windbreaks, providing great tweety nesting sites.
If we can keep it growing those things would be great.
Not cheating....smart planting! Lovely tree!
Thank you :-)
Thanks for the video, we put in new trees each year we added Apple and Cherry late fall I am happy yo say they have along very well this spring. We have some 20 - 50 year old walnuts and Hickory we have added English Walnuts and Pecan but those are really for my Grandchildren unlikely I will be around when they start producing nuts.
It sounds like you have a lot of awesome trees!
Awesome update thank you for sharing
Thanks for watching!
tweeted
Thanks, as always! I don't suppose you use Reddit? We could really use a steady viewer who shares things there every once-in-a-while.
👍
i have baby lemon and tangerines trees . i have started from seed
I hope they grow well for you.
We have live oak here. We planted s pistach tree... my daughter had to for her K12 science class and that's the only thing that was left at Lowe's. It does not produce nuts. It was doing well until my five year old broke the entire top off yesterday, after being told repeatedly to leave it alone! 😕
Kids, I tell ya...
Very nice, does it mean that tree will have fruit on with the very next season of will it wait also about 5 years.
Yeah, the fruits in the video are ones that are on this tree. We should have a small handful of olives this year.
Great video. Don't you have to cure the raw olives for them to be edible?
You know... I should look into that.
Hi Jared. I don't want to Monday morning quarterback here, but I am curious. I love the auger use and honestly wish I had one for the many fruit trees I have put into my homestead. I have found in research and in practice that trees planed in the fall do much better in the long run, your weather, summer in particular, is much more harsh than it is here in PA. Are you concerned at all about planting this late into spring?
I have had much more success when planting trees if I dig out about 3 feet in all directions so the roots have an easier path to travel. This decreases the shock and gives better opportunity for root growth, and may prevent girdling in the long run. Also, I do not amend the soil at all for the first year as this encourages the roots to spread out and look for what it needs, ultimately making it stronger. The second season, I will amend with a few inches of compost in a large area, about the size of the canopy, at least until the tree grows to a significant height, then I figure it is on its own. In my mind, the first year of a newly planted tree is focused on growing the root and not the tree. It took me a while, and a few bad tree experiences to figure this one out as I have always tried to grow soil and the plants (fruits and vegetables) are simply the byproduct. Growing trees are a little different animal in some respect.
I have grown to love bare root trees, planted in the fall, although I still plant some potted as well because I want to bear fruit a little sooner. In the long run, after about 5 years, there is little difference in my potted vs bare root tree production. I have never planted with fruit on the tree though. I am concerned about energy going to the fruit and not the root base. Are you planning on pinching off any fruit this year to sacrifice for the greater good so to speak? I would liken this thought to strawberries or asparagus, its best to not take any fruit for the first year or so (or three regarding asparagus) so the plant can build a solid root structure, and the reward can be reaped with a healthier plant and better harvests in the future.
Again, please don't take this as criticism or scrutiny, I only want to understand your thought process when making these decisions, especially when you live in a climate significantly different than mine. Please don't let my poor explanations cloud the message, I simply would like to understand your thought process when it comes to planting trees on your homestead.
Thanks for sharing this Jared, I really enjoy the discussion on your process as much as the actual task.
Dave, I totally get where you are coming from and don't take your message wrong at all.
As it happens, I dislike bare root trees, which, as you point out, need to be planted while the tree is still dormant and during the dormant seasons.
However, I'd much rather plant a tree that hasn't had it's roots disturbed and exposed so badly. Is that right or wrong - heck if I know - but it is how I feel about it.
So, with that, all I'm really doing is removing a plastic barrier and adding more soil.
No, I won't be pinching any fruit - no good reason here - just don't want to, but I will prune and shape it when it goes dormant this winter.
As for the 3' radius - that sure does sound great, but it also sounds like a lot of back-fill, which I don't have right now (besides putting the hard clay-like dirt back). I'd generally agree with your approach ($100 hole for a $10 tree), but I think we'll get the results we want without it.
My thought process - Put the tree that is already is soil in more soil, fertilize, mulch, water and wait.
J&J Acres K.I.S.S. it (Keep It Super Simple) is a great philosophy. Thanks Jared.
Hi, Just wanted to know why did u lay the landscape fabric and then mulched over it?
Because neither one on their own is enough to help suppress the grasses around here.
So wouldnt it be better ti put mulch first and then the fabric as the much will save water and give it directly to the roots. Just an observation