@@bradtottman1425 thanks. I’m sure the pre-soaking in Plus Gas helped. Plus taking the time to remove the cap so I could hit down directly on top of the ball joint. It’s so much nicer to drive around in now it’s done.
This was a high quality repair using critical thinking and applying forces in a sensible way and not just hitting things with a hammer. The jack holding the extension and using the spanner to turn it was a great idea and stops the torx rounding out. Removing the cap off the ball joint and giving yourself a clear area to hammer works great and avoid risk of the damaging the hub and CV when the chisel slips. This video is the perfect example of working smart not hard, well done Woody.
You have made my day. Thank-you. I saw one video where a chap used an electric concrete breaker to get this job done. But he did get lots of views.. and made me determined to research a better way to go about it. 👍
@@Woodyrvf750 No problem, i have done this job on several L322 and knows whats involved. I have just got a british racing green L405 and have recently replaced all 4 arms on that, had to order the JLR ball joint spliiter. Totally impossible without it!
That worked a treat! Good idea with the jack under the socket, and the strap! You made it look easy! Guess a missed the tip on going in from the top, i managed to chisel it out from the sides, but it was a pain in the back side! Well done!
@@fredrikedebo4179 thanks for your kind comment. I did do quite a lot of forum post reading before I attempted the job. And I was quite chuffed with how well the strap worked.
@@robholland1937 thanks Rob. I think what worked for me was chiselling the top cap off, and hitting the ball joint directly. I’m sure you’ll have seen many fullfatrr posts on this topic!
Doing mine at the moment, what a bad design, the front retention bolt has a nice little area in the thread for water to collect and seize it in (mine had been chewed up by a previous owner so was a pig to remove) then the ball joint itself has that narrow section on top for water to get into and seize that in too, I'll definitely be trying the method you demonstrated. I may also be kind to the next person to do a replacement and try and seal those water traps with grease or wax when I'm done.
Well done!..You made it look so easy!😁
@@bradtottman1425 thanks. I’m sure the pre-soaking in Plus Gas helped. Plus taking the time to remove the cap so I could hit down directly on top of the ball joint. It’s so much nicer to drive around in now it’s done.
This was a high quality repair using critical thinking and applying forces in a sensible way and not just hitting things with a hammer. The jack holding the extension and using the spanner to turn it was a great idea and stops the torx rounding out. Removing the cap off the ball joint and giving yourself a clear area to hammer works great and avoid risk of the damaging the hub and CV when the chisel slips. This video is the perfect example of working smart not hard, well done Woody.
You have made my day. Thank-you.
I saw one video where a chap used an electric concrete breaker to get this job done. But he did get lots of views.. and made me determined to research a better way to go about it. 👍
@@Woodyrvf750 No problem, i have done this job on several L322 and knows whats involved. I have just got a british racing green L405 and have recently replaced all 4 arms on that, had to order the JLR ball joint spliiter. Totally impossible without it!
Does your 405 have the same engine as your 322? Which do you prefer?
That worked a treat! Good idea with the jack under the socket, and the strap! You made it look easy! Guess a missed the tip on going in from the top, i managed to chisel it out from the sides, but it was a pain in the back side! Well done!
@@fredrikedebo4179 thanks for your kind comment. I did do quite a lot of forum post reading before I attempted the job. And I was quite chuffed with how well the strap worked.
Thanks for making this video just join you and found it very informative have watched some of the other video's you have put up thanks
@@meknownothing thanks for letting me know. I’m glad you found it useful. For such a low cost job it has transformed the driving experience.
Good effort for what is a sod of a job 😊
@@robholland1937 thanks Rob. I think what worked for me was chiselling the top cap off, and hitting the ball joint directly. I’m sure you’ll have seen many fullfatrr posts on this topic!
Doing mine at the moment, what a bad design, the front retention bolt has a nice little area in the thread for water to collect and seize it in (mine had been chewed up by a previous owner so was a pig to remove) then the ball joint itself has that narrow section on top for water to get into and seize that in too, I'll definitely be trying the method you demonstrated. I may also be kind to the next person to do a replacement and try and seal those water traps with grease or wax when I'm done.
@@bobthebarsteward a big dollop of grease would make all the difference come next time..
@@Woodyrvf750 yes, grease is the word
@@bobthebarsteward now you are just showing your age..
Hi Woody are you available for a 2 minute chat?
@@cheaperukbills774 just emailed you.