LED headlight globes are not A.D.R approved (for good reason) & thus an illegal modification, not roadworthy and defect material. You can see by the light spread on LED low beam that it would blind an oncoming driver & the LED high beam is good only for koala spotting in the tops of trees. ADR approved headlight globes are marked as such & you can see so by looking at them through the headlight glass. Fit some upgraded ADR approved halogen globes that dim correctly and a set of 9" LED driving lights and that's about the best you can hope for. The other down side of the LED headlight globe conversion is the heat sinks that try to drain away the considerable heat that can melt headlight buckets is that you cannot run the dust and water sealing boots on the back of the globes anymore & the headlights will fill with dust or water. Too many people are running these dangerous LED lights on the road and along with the road vermin who "upgrade" their fog light globes & run them at night into oncoming traffic.
Dusty Farmer...you're right on the money. I'd suggest Simon have a look at the Fyrlyt website or Facebook page. They've got all the science relating to colour temps etc and I'm satisfied that their ideas are correct. I've maintained the factory halogens in my Silverado, but have added THREE Fyrlyt Nemesis (250 watt each) spotties. When I see one of these dickhead-driven vehicles coming towards me, blinding me with their non-ADR-compliant LED headlights, they can expect to cop the 1,000 watts of good ol' halogen that I have on the bullbar. Even in the video, Simon demonstrates that the low beam cut-off point is NOT where it should be. An oncoming driver would be dazzled by those wanker lights and a defect notice should be slapped on the windscreen.
I expected some flack for this one! :) Ok, firstly any high output headlight whether it's Halogen, LED, HID or even LASER will require headlight levellers and headlight washers to remain compliant in OZ (Though a majority of viewers of this channel aren't in OZ) The main issue is that headlight reflectors is they are essentially modified parabolic reflectors, in that they are designed to have the light originate from the one point called the focal point. When you replace the globe with another when the light originates for a different position the design doesn't work as originally intended and you get light spill. This is particularly an issue with low beams where there is the potential to dazzle oncoming vehicles. Bill, I had a look at the Fyrlyt website and saw their video justifying the use of halogen over LED etc. In my opinion, they are as bad as the rest of them trying to misrepresent the technology used in their lights, using a reputable organisation (The AMA) to further they're market position. And here's why. The AMA are referring to street lighting. The type of globe used in the old yellow street lights is a HPS (High Pressure Sodium) it's actually a type of HID (High Intensity Discharge) light. They work completely differently to Halogen globes, HID lights don't even have a filament! While they are both strong in the 3000K light colour, the spectral distribution is different. They talk about a disruption in circadian rhythm. And for street lights, that might be a valid concern, especially if the light illuminates your sleeping space. Though I would have thought, being alert behind the wheel would be a good thing! Halogens are horribly inefficient in comparison with LED/HID/LASER. The emit a lot of their energy into UV and IR where we just can't see, you'll notice your hand is warm in front of a high powered Halogen and less so LED etc. Now even if you have the same amount of measured light (lumens) from both a halogen (3000K) and LED, you'll be able to see further down the track with the LED (5500K) as your eyes are more sensitive to light at this colour temp than yellow light. The only point mentioned that I honestly haven't looked at was glare, that the same light in blue produce more glare than the same light in yellow. Any headlight regardless if it's Halogen, LED, HID or LASER, needs to be adjusted properly otherwise you'll dazzle oncoming vehicles, maladjusted Halogens are usually less of an issue as on average they usually aren't as bright and your eyes aren't as sensitive. I might do a video concentrating on the spectral differences of different lighting technologies and how our eyes perceive brightness of different coloured lights if there's any interest. Hope this helps.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing I put some of the A.D.R approved PHILLIPS 150% halogen globes in my Toyota VDJ79R, better than stock globes but they are still dim on low beam & not really alot better on high but they do dip correctly & I rely on the 9" LED driving lights to light up the roadway on high beam & they do a pretty good job and it's all 100% legal.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing I can only go on my own experience. In my work I do a lot of long night trips in a Hiace van with LED auxiliary lights and factory halogen headlights. I don't own the van or company, so I have no say in the lights used...I just have to put-up with what I'm given. I retire (again) in 2 weeks time, so will put-up with it for another 2 weeks. By the time i finish a shift my head is aching from the glare and the extra concentration I need to employ to get home safely. Now, compare that to my own vehicle, Chev Silverado with all halogen...standard high/low beam plus 3x Fyrlyt Nemesis. This is my "toy" and when I drive it, it's usually for hundreds of kilometers at a time, doing interstate trips. The last few trips I've done have seen me do a little more than 1,000 kilometers a day, 2 days in a row. At the end of each of those 2 days, I slept like a baby and had no headaches etc. To me, that's all the proof I need to stay with the halogens.
Actually you can legally use LED and they can be ADR approved but the output must be below 2000lm (lumens) if your output is above that you must also have self levelling and self cleaning installed. This second requirement is what makes most LED replacement bulbs illegal. Find one under 2000lm and adjust it correctly and you are good to go legally.
I tried the led lights, I was impressed however when towing the boat everyone got blinded I now have gone back to std halogen and use a light bar that only works on high beam No complaints from oncoming vehicles
The most important test in this video should have been the difference when aproaching this vehicle head on. I have yet to see a pair of aftermarket led lights that don't blind me when coming towards me. They are dangerous and should not be sold. The light source in these LED bulbs never match the focal point of the mirrors in the headlights. If your bulbs are not bright enough, put brighter halogen bulbs in. You can get them from all auto shops for all cars and they make a huge difference to the weaker factory bulbs and they dont blind everyone else on the road. If you just want the look of LED then upgrade your whole headlight to the Projector type so that the light is focussed on the road and not the on coming cars.
If you just upgrade to projector lenses and brighter Halogen/LED/HID you'll still need headlight levelers and washers to remain compliant (In Australia)
Installed a set in my ford focus for a while. Blinded too many oncoming vehicles, had to remove them. Not matter what adjustments I did to them, if the road was an uneven surface and other drivers could directly see the light source, it was far too bright.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing It's the lack of self-levelling design of the headlight housing. Even if they are angled low enough on a flat ground, when the vehicle is driving up an incline over a crest, the beam is likely to blind an oncoming driver.
Thanks for the vid. I run LED headlight replacements in my Landy as the original headlights are like candlelights. The tradeoff with the 5000K+ kelvin is the lack of red colour in the spectrum. Yes, you may see further, however you loose definition. For example, with 5000K+ a roo will appear more "grey" in colour, as will the bush it's standing next to. The definition will be somewhat lost due to the lack of colour in the spectrum -whereas the lower kelvin (eg. 3500K) will provide more colour definition so the roo will look different to the bush. An alternative to the LED lights (particularly in older vehicles) would be to go for a higher watt bulb and make sure you're running relays before the headlights. Relays will use the original harness as a switch but draw maximum power from your battery, rather than pulling voltage through the harness... I hope this helps someone.
Here's a bloke who knows what he's talking about....the colour rendition/definition is better with the yellowish halogen that the brilliant white of either LED or HID. It may not appear to be the case at first...everybody seems to be wowed by the bright white light...but it ain't the best for the human eye to see contrast at night. I don't care what you say...the proof is in the driving (long distances) as well as the LEGALITY!!!
I run a relay loom in my 80 series, not beause of higher wattage globes, because the standard setup in the 80 landcruiser saw just over 10v to the back of the globe! Now at least I get full voltage.
Not a fan of LED lights for low beam. It’s a serious hazard for oncoming traffic as they are just way to bright. For high beam, by all means should be LED, for when you use them there shouldn’t be anyone around to blind.
They need to be aimed properly and some led retrofits are a lot better at maintaining the optical properties of the reflector than others. Another thing to watch is the intensity level between high (and perhaps spot lights) and your low beams. If you're running candle light for low beam and a "scared of the dark" high beam setup, you eyes will take time to adjust between the two levels of light, then when you switch off the high beams for oncoming traffic, it'll render you almost blind for a few seconds untill you eyes have a chance to adjust.
It’s a great clip, only one major problem with this. It is illegal to do this, check it out for your self. That is because of the way the light is focused by the reflector.
It's not the fact that it's an LED or even HID that is the problem, it's the amount of light the headlight is emitting. To retain legal compliance in OZ with high output headlights, you'll need a headlight levelling mechanism and headlight washers.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing It's a case of the aftermarket lights don't comply with the "cut-off" on low beam. With a factory system, you will notice (say when you park facing your garage door/wall etc at night) that the light does not shine above the level at which the headlight is mounted. EG: If the headlight is 1 meter from the ground, then at the door/wall, there will (should!!!) be no discernable light above the 1 meter mark. If there is, and taking into account the distance factor, then the level at which that light is shining at an oncoming vehicle is compounded many times over. One or two degrees at the light globe can turn into several meters a couple of hundred meters down the road. Hey, I'm not just pissed at aftermarket LED and HID....even factory-fitted ones should be banned in my view. Their so-called "self-levelling" systems are total crap...they take time to adjust and meantime, as they hit a dip in the road, the poor bastard coming towards them cops the full brunt. I'm not normally a wowser when it comes to doing illegal things...hell, there's probably 100 things that a keen-eyed inspector could find wrong with my Chevy...but none of them would have any adverse effect on an oncoming driver.
I'm not sure if that contributed to the increased light output much at all, though they certainly looked better. Keep an eye out though as we're doing a plasic headlight restoration video soon where we measure the light output before and after.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Fair point, but as you said, "you're not sure" and neither are your punters. Like for like comparing is required in these situations, or not at all. Sorry to be tough , but I think it is only fair.
I have a LED conversion in a PX2 ranger and they are no were as bright and interfering as my stock 2019 Suzuki Jimny LED lights for a comparison. The Ford lights may not be ADR approved but compared to the Jimny 🤷♂️
I believe there will be a lot of quality variation in the LED globes for sale. Just as there is for the Halogens. Is there a later/upgraded model projector headlight for your model ranger?
The projector style lens is a better idea for a headlight, they are better able to accurately control the light from the source be it Halogen, LED, HID or even LASER.
Perfect example of do what you can do and make the best of what you have no control over: what am I talking about? men who lose their hair on their heads - well you can't grow hair despite what Warnie says- so get rid off what you have and do a reverse- grow where you can! On your face....kind of an inverted psychology LOL Joke aside- I understand when LED tech was not available- what's the excuse for car companies not to offer this on all cars? For most part they still offer halogen for lower spec cars. I think vision is more important that A-Z driver assist anyway. It's the same story with disc/drum brakes. In this 21st century we are still selling vehicles at $70k with drum brakes on the rear in utes!
Please don't encourage people to fit these to old reflector housings, blinding an oncoming vehicle with glare from those for just 3secs on the highway is equivalent to driving 100m blind. There's a good reason low beams aren't very bright. Fit aux lights for rural / off road use.
This needs to stop. Our eye during the day like a more yellow like as the cones respond to yellow more and where the whole 5500K comes from. At night Blue is the most responsive cone in our eyes which is why a higher Kalvin rating of 6000K-7000K is used. The paper for this study came out around the same time as the other study's paper. None the less, I do rate Stedi LEDs. have them in my 80 series and am no longer blind as a bat because we all know how shit the 6x4s are with halogens.
It's an excellent upgrade and the headlight cleaning is a great idea. I'll do both to my Hilux. Thanks for another fantastic video. I hit the thumbs up button 11 times for this one. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
i am not going to talk about legality - its well understood whether one likes or not; - i do wish to make a few comments based on my own experiences: 1) if you are getting LED H4 - not all are created equal - get one with little internal shield (eg F2 led H4-but they are not the only one)- they tend to closely ressemble the beam patterns of halegon; 2) however doesnt matter how hard you tried, to this date, i have not yet seen one which work well enough on a reflector design for halegon; I find LED bulb tend to work better in low rather than hi beam; 3) all legal OEM lights used are a compromise- between how well you can see and how well oncoming vehicles are not blinded by the power /bem pattern of your lights(especially on unlit roads); 4) on long distance/ drive on roads without street lights - its actually more comfortable and less straining for your eyes with a more "yellowish" headlight (colour temp < 4000k, closer to halegon colour) than common 5000-6000k colour temp LED light - factory LED is usually somewhere between 4000-5000k for good reason; 5) so I used better focused LED light on my bike because i can see the surface/imperfection of road better and can be seen better (and less blinding issues) on well lit environment 6) I used better wiring/diode/capacitor setup on my prado to ensure i get 14.2+V on my halegon bulb and ensure my reflector/lens are in perfect condition - this setup work better on long distance country road drive for me
I do understand some people prefer a more yellowish light and feel fatigue sets in earlier with white/bluer lights. Of my two 4WDs, one has traditional halogens and the other standard projector HIDs, that I'm guessing are somewhere around 5500k. I much prefer the whiter light of the HIDs to the yellower lights of the halogens. I suppose personal preference is a factor. My 80 series headlights are negatively switch and I've measures just over 10v at the back of the globe with the engine running. I fitted a pirahana offroad headlight wiring loom to the car and now have full voltage to the back of the headlight. One day I'll get around to doing a projector HID headlight upgrade to it.
LED headlight globes are not A.D.R approved (for good reason) & thus an illegal modification, not roadworthy and defect material. You can see by the light spread on LED low beam that it would blind an oncoming driver & the LED high beam is good only for koala spotting in the tops of trees. ADR approved headlight globes are marked as such & you can see so by looking at them through the headlight glass. Fit some upgraded ADR approved halogen globes that dim correctly and a set of 9" LED driving lights and that's about the best you can hope for. The other down side of the LED headlight globe conversion is the heat sinks that try to drain away the considerable heat that can melt headlight buckets is that you cannot run the dust and water sealing boots on the back of the globes anymore & the headlights will fill with dust or water. Too many people are running these dangerous LED lights on the road and along with the road vermin who "upgrade" their fog light globes & run them at night into oncoming traffic.
Dusty Farmer...you're right on the money. I'd suggest Simon have a look at the Fyrlyt website or Facebook page. They've got all the science relating to colour temps etc and I'm satisfied that their ideas are correct. I've maintained the factory halogens in my Silverado, but have added THREE Fyrlyt Nemesis (250 watt each) spotties. When I see one of these dickhead-driven vehicles coming towards me, blinding me with their non-ADR-compliant LED headlights, they can expect to cop the 1,000 watts of good ol' halogen that I have on the bullbar.
Even in the video, Simon demonstrates that the low beam cut-off point is NOT where it should be. An oncoming driver would be dazzled by those wanker lights and a defect notice should be slapped on the windscreen.
I expected some flack for this one! :)
Ok, firstly any high output headlight whether it's Halogen, LED, HID or even LASER will require headlight levellers and headlight washers to remain compliant in OZ (Though a majority of viewers of this channel aren't in OZ)
The main issue is that headlight reflectors is they are essentially modified parabolic reflectors, in that they are designed to have the light originate from the one point called the focal point. When you replace the globe with another when the light originates for a different position the design doesn't work as originally intended and you get light spill. This is particularly an issue with low beams where there is the potential to dazzle oncoming vehicles.
Bill, I had a look at the Fyrlyt website and saw their video justifying the use of halogen over LED etc. In my opinion, they are as bad as the rest of them trying to misrepresent the technology used in their lights, using a reputable organisation (The AMA) to further they're market position. And here's why.
The AMA are referring to street lighting. The type of globe used in the old yellow street lights is a HPS (High Pressure Sodium) it's actually a type of HID (High Intensity Discharge) light. They work completely differently to Halogen globes, HID lights don't even have a filament!
While they are both strong in the 3000K light colour, the spectral distribution is different. They talk about a disruption in circadian rhythm. And for street lights, that might be a valid concern, especially if the light illuminates your sleeping space. Though I would have thought, being alert behind the wheel would be a good thing!
Halogens are horribly inefficient in comparison with LED/HID/LASER. The emit a lot of their energy into UV and IR where we just can't see, you'll notice your hand is warm in front of a high powered Halogen and less so LED etc.
Now even if you have the same amount of measured light (lumens) from both a halogen (3000K) and LED, you'll be able to see further down the track with the LED (5500K) as your eyes are more sensitive to light at this colour temp than yellow light.
The only point mentioned that I honestly haven't looked at was glare, that the same light in blue produce more glare than the same light in yellow.
Any headlight regardless if it's Halogen, LED, HID or LASER, needs to be adjusted properly otherwise you'll dazzle oncoming vehicles, maladjusted Halogens are usually less of an issue as on average they usually aren't as bright and your eyes aren't as sensitive.
I might do a video concentrating on the spectral differences of different lighting technologies and how our eyes perceive brightness of different coloured lights if there's any interest.
Hope this helps.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing I put some of the A.D.R approved PHILLIPS 150% halogen globes in my Toyota VDJ79R, better than stock globes but they are still dim on low beam & not really alot better on high but they do dip correctly & I rely on the 9" LED driving lights to light up the roadway on high beam & they do a pretty good job and it's all 100% legal.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing I can only go on my own experience. In my work I do a lot of long night trips in a Hiace van with LED auxiliary lights and factory halogen headlights. I don't own the van or company, so I have no say in the lights used...I just have to put-up with what I'm given. I retire (again) in 2 weeks time, so will put-up with it for another 2 weeks. By the time i finish a shift my head is aching from the glare and the extra concentration I need to employ to get home safely.
Now, compare that to my own vehicle, Chev Silverado with all halogen...standard high/low beam plus 3x Fyrlyt Nemesis. This is my "toy" and when I drive it, it's usually for hundreds of kilometers at a time, doing interstate trips.
The last few trips I've done have seen me do a little more than 1,000 kilometers a day, 2 days in a row. At the end of each of those 2 days, I slept like a baby and had no headaches etc.
To me, that's all the proof I need to stay with the halogens.
Actually you can legally use LED and they can be ADR approved but the output must be below 2000lm (lumens) if your output is above that you must also have self levelling and self cleaning installed. This second requirement is what makes most LED replacement bulbs illegal.
Find one under 2000lm and adjust it correctly and you are good to go legally.
I tried the led lights, I was impressed however when towing the boat everyone got blinded
I now have gone back to std halogen and use a light bar that only works on high beam
No complaints from oncoming vehicles
It can be an issue, that's one of the reasons that factory installations of high powered headlights have to be self leveling.
Awesome vids for the 100 series upgrades, keep em coming
Glad you like them!
Hi did you forget the water cover on the bulb globes or did they not fit with after market bulbs thanks Martin Thailand
The most important test in this video should have been the difference when aproaching this vehicle head on. I have yet to see a pair of aftermarket led lights that don't blind me when coming towards me. They are dangerous and should not be sold. The light source in these LED bulbs never match the focal point of the mirrors in the headlights. If your bulbs are not bright enough, put brighter halogen bulbs in. You can get them from all auto shops for all cars and they make a huge difference to the weaker factory bulbs and they dont blind everyone else on the road. If you just want the look of LED then upgrade your whole headlight to the Projector type so that the light is focussed on the road and not the on coming cars.
If you just upgrade to projector lenses and brighter Halogen/LED/HID you'll still need headlight levelers and washers to remain compliant (In Australia)
Installed a set in my ford focus for a while. Blinded too many oncoming vehicles, had to remove them. Not matter what adjustments I did to them, if the road was an uneven surface and other drivers could directly see the light source, it was far too bright.
There can be issues with particular headlights/globe combinations where you just can aim them them low enough.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing It's the lack of self-levelling design of the headlight housing. Even if they are angled low enough on a flat ground, when the vehicle is driving up an incline over a crest, the beam is likely to blind an oncoming driver.
Thanks for the vid.
I run LED headlight replacements in my Landy as the original headlights are like candlelights.
The tradeoff with the 5000K+ kelvin is the lack of red colour in the spectrum.
Yes, you may see further, however you loose definition. For example, with 5000K+ a roo will appear more "grey" in colour, as will the bush it's standing next to. The definition will be somewhat lost due to the lack of colour in the spectrum -whereas the lower kelvin (eg. 3500K) will provide more colour definition so the roo will look different to the bush.
An alternative to the LED lights (particularly in older vehicles) would be to go for a higher watt bulb and make sure you're running relays before the headlights. Relays will use the original harness as a switch but draw maximum power from your battery, rather than pulling voltage through the harness...
I hope this helps someone.
Here's a bloke who knows what he's talking about....the colour rendition/definition is better with the yellowish halogen that the brilliant white of either LED or HID. It may not appear to be the case at first...everybody seems to be wowed by the bright white light...but it ain't the best for the human eye to see contrast at night. I don't care what you say...the proof is in the driving (long distances) as well as the LEGALITY!!!
I run a relay loom in my 80 series, not beause of higher wattage globes, because the standard setup in the 80 landcruiser saw just over 10v to the back of the globe! Now at least I get full voltage.
Not a fan of LED lights for low beam. It’s a serious hazard for oncoming traffic as they are just way to bright. For high beam, by all means should be LED, for when you use them there shouldn’t be anyone around to blind.
They need to be aimed properly and some led retrofits are a lot better at maintaining the optical properties of the reflector than others.
Another thing to watch is the intensity level between high (and perhaps spot lights) and your low beams.
If you're running candle light for low beam and a "scared of the dark" high beam setup, you eyes will take time to adjust between the two levels of light, then when you switch off the high beams for oncoming traffic, it'll render you almost blind for a few seconds untill you eyes have a chance to adjust.
Where did you get the leds for the 100 series?
They're Stedi branded.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing cool thanks mate you have alot of interesting videos keep it up
@@russpurnell2943 Cheers!
Loved this . Thank you
It’s a great clip, only one major problem with this. It is illegal to do this, check it out for your self. That is because of the way the light is focused by the reflector.
Agree 100%....but the wankers who install these non-ADR-compliant lights don't give a shit about others on the road.
@@billroach2393 That explains why some oncoming cars blind me at night...
It's not the fact that it's an LED or even HID that is the problem, it's the amount of light the headlight is emitting. To retain legal compliance in OZ with high output headlights, you'll need a headlight levelling mechanism and headlight washers.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing yes...and would I be correct in assuming (a dangerous thing to do, I know), that ol' mates 100 series has neither?
@@LockyourHubs4WDing It's a case of the aftermarket lights don't comply with the "cut-off" on low beam. With a factory system, you will notice (say when you park facing your garage door/wall etc at night) that the light does not shine above the level at which the headlight is mounted. EG: If the headlight is 1 meter from the ground, then at the door/wall, there will (should!!!) be no discernable light above the 1 meter mark. If there is, and taking into account the distance factor, then the level at which that light is shining at an oncoming vehicle is compounded many times over. One or two degrees at the light globe can turn into several meters a couple of hundred meters down the road.
Hey, I'm not just pissed at aftermarket LED and HID....even factory-fitted ones should be banned in my view. Their so-called "self-levelling" systems are total crap...they take time to adjust and meantime, as they hit a dip in the road, the poor bastard coming towards them cops the full brunt.
I'm not normally a wowser when it comes to doing illegal things...hell, there's probably 100 things that a keen-eyed inspector could find wrong with my Chevy...but none of them would have any adverse effect on an oncoming driver.
It's a pity you cleaned up the light covers between before and after demo. As did the cleaning of the light cover make a difference.
I'm not sure if that contributed to the increased light output much at all, though they certainly looked better.
Keep an eye out though as we're doing a plasic headlight restoration video soon where we measure the light output before and after.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Fair point, but as you said, "you're not sure" and neither are your punters. Like for like comparing is required in these situations, or not at all.
Sorry to be tough , but I think it is only fair.
@@kezzatries It's a fair call, though I've already got Lux reading for the before and after I finish this new set I'll have the answer.
Some modern vehicles cant use them, as the canbus (computer) doesnt see them at all so disables them.
The Stedi units used jave a "canbus interface" in line with the light wiring. They didn't seem to cause any electrical issues.
I have a LED conversion in a PX2 ranger and they are no were as bright and interfering as my stock 2019 Suzuki Jimny LED lights for a comparison. The Ford lights may not be ADR approved but compared to the Jimny 🤷♂️
I believe there will be a lot of quality variation in the LED globes for sale. Just as there is for the Halogens. Is there a later/upgraded model projector headlight for your model ranger?
How would they go with a lense
The projector style lens is a better idea for a headlight, they are better able to accurately control the light from the source be it Halogen, LED, HID or even LASER.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing I tried led on my prado with the lense and wasn't that great I ended up taking them out and putting halogen back in
Perfect example of do what you can do and make the best of what you have no control over: what am I talking about? men who lose their hair on their heads - well you can't grow hair despite what Warnie says- so get rid off what you have and do a reverse- grow where you can! On your face....kind of an inverted psychology LOL Joke aside- I understand when LED tech was not available- what's the excuse for car companies not to offer this on all cars? For most part they still offer halogen for lower spec cars. I think vision is more important that A-Z driver assist anyway. It's the same story with disc/drum brakes. In this 21st century we are still selling vehicles at $70k with drum brakes on the rear in utes!
Low beam is 3m up the tree, SMH. Absolute rubbish.
Please don't encourage people to fit these to old reflector housings, blinding an oncoming vehicle with glare from those for just 3secs on the highway is equivalent to driving 100m blind.
There's a good reason low beams aren't very bright. Fit aux lights for rural / off road use.
The headlights definetly need to be realigned.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing no...they just need to have LEGAL globes re-fitted to them!!! Simple....
Too bad they’re illegal!😬
Low beams yes, not high beams
This needs to stop. Our eye during the day like a more yellow like as the cones respond to yellow more and where the whole 5500K comes from. At night Blue is the most responsive cone in our eyes which is why a higher Kalvin rating of 6000K-7000K is used. The paper for this study came out around the same time as the other study's paper.
None the less, I do rate Stedi LEDs. have them in my 80 series and am no longer blind as a bat because we all know how shit the 6x4s are with halogens.
Got a link?
It's an excellent upgrade and the headlight cleaning is a great idea. I'll do both to my Hilux. Thanks for another fantastic video. I hit the thumbs up button 11 times for this one. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks mate!
i am not going to talk about legality - its well understood whether one likes or not; - i do wish to make a few comments based on my own experiences:
1) if you are getting LED H4 - not all are created equal - get one with little internal shield (eg F2 led H4-but they are not the only one)- they tend to closely ressemble the beam patterns of halegon;
2) however doesnt matter how hard you tried, to this date, i have not yet seen one which work well enough on a reflector design for halegon; I find LED bulb tend to work better in low rather than hi beam;
3) all legal OEM lights used are a compromise- between how well you can see and how well oncoming vehicles are not blinded by the power /bem pattern of your lights(especially on unlit roads);
4) on long distance/ drive on roads without street lights - its actually more comfortable and less straining for your eyes with a more "yellowish" headlight (colour temp < 4000k, closer to halegon colour) than common 5000-6000k colour temp LED light - factory LED is usually somewhere between 4000-5000k for good reason;
5) so I used better focused LED light on my bike because i can see the surface/imperfection of road better and can be seen better (and less blinding issues) on well lit environment
6) I used better wiring/diode/capacitor setup on my prado to ensure i get 14.2+V on my halegon bulb and ensure my reflector/lens are in perfect condition - this setup work better on long distance country road drive for me
I do understand some people prefer a more yellowish light and feel fatigue sets in earlier with white/bluer lights. Of my two 4WDs, one has traditional halogens and the other standard projector HIDs, that I'm guessing are somewhere around 5500k. I much prefer the whiter light of the HIDs to the yellower lights of the halogens. I suppose personal preference is a factor.
My 80 series headlights are negatively switch and I've measures just over 10v at the back of the globe with the engine running. I fitted a pirahana offroad headlight wiring loom to the car and now have full voltage to the back of the headlight. One day I'll get around to doing a projector HID headlight upgrade to it.