Thanks Dave I wish I would have found this sooner. I do have all my Implements on the lower cost quick hitch . BUT!! The Amazon bushings and adapters to make it work make me feel like a moron. Good thing I was a Welder years ago. Your method could have saved me $$$$$$. It even cost me a 4" Vice that shattered when setting a roll pin. ( I know I need a press but that's another issue ) GOOD JOB !!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks. I have a couple bushings but also have a couple home made attachments.. And those nice factory made bushings are priced too high..They figure, if you can plunk $400 for an iMatch, why not hit you $40 for some nice looking bushings. I don't like that. I found some square tubing (probably 1 inch 14 gauge?) that would do the trick. Cut me a 2.5 inch length and it can work.
Wow you did it the easy way. I went through tractor tools with torch and welder, making them quick hitch adaptable, then add loose sleeves making them cat 2. I'm 72 had a stroke 10 years ago. I love my quick hitch. I even made a 12" bottom plow quick hitch.
it was easier than having all the bushing. I like the quick hitch ok but its not something I use that much. infact I mostly use it if I'm going to a job site where I'm grading a driveway or yard and need to carry the boxblade, york rake, and road blade and change from one to another fast for that specific job. when the tractor is being used at my house I dont use the quick hitch that much since I never use the quick hitch on the finish mower, tiller or brush hog 99% of the time. the quick hitch can damage the pto safety shield on certain implements like the finish mower if your not careful.
Nicely done, Dave. I viewed this video several times and I like how you closed the gap. You made a couple 1/4 inch j-hooks and tacked them in and a couple pieces of rod to decrease the space in the top hook. Thumbs up and thanks.
since this video I have also milled out the top hook moving the slot rearward away from the back of the tractor about a half an inch. then removed the 1/4 inch rods and replaced them with 5/8 thick flat stock. this really improved the hook up process making the entire quick hitch work better with most of my implements.
Really nice Dave. I also checked out the video JIMeRIG sent you with similar mods. He gave shout-out and credit to you and your mods on the QH. I made a comment that I'll probably combine both of your mods when I finally break down and get the QH and do my mods on it. That's what I really enjoy about UA-cam and the tractor community. Such great ideas. Thanks, brother.
The extended hook gave me enough room to hook up my box blade with the HF quick hitch. I got mine from Amazon and it was about 50 bucks. As I said before the bottom bolt or pin hit the frame of the implement and I needed about another half inch of room. I think Agri Supply has a hook that might work for a lot less money, under 20 dollars. But I got free shipping on Amazon and free returns. I sold my torch and welder long ago or I would have made a hook that worked myself. For the bushings, I used a piece of black iron pipe from Lowe's, sawed up to fit. It's a shame HF and the Chinese won't fix the hook problem.
I agree I never understood why they make a cat 1 quick hitch with cat 2 lower lift lugs and a top hook that sucks at best. I bought the agri hook to try and since I needed to add a third bolt hole for position adjustment the agri hook would not work for me. I think I show the agri hook in another video about quick hitches on my channel. thanks for the valuable input. these QH are great once you get them modified up to work with every implement. as I stated many times before I would rather mod up a 89 dollar HF than to mod up a 400 dollar landpride. lol
@@daveknowshow Yep. Soon as I get rich I'm gonna get me one of them hydraulic top links like yours. I'd like to have a Kubota tractor like yours too. Instead of my Ferguson TO 20 and my JD 5200.
@@lareemcra347 nothing wrong with the fergy or the JD I have operated both and both are very capable tractors. you should get the hydraulic top link its a game changer for sure!
Glad to see u out making a video. I sure enjoy ur tractor stuff and fabricating various items. They all seem to have a good useful purpose. Sorry to hear about ur health problems but hang in there we're all sending a prayer ur way. Lots of tractor brothers and sisters out here rooting for u. Good luck,God bless.
thank you so much! that means the world to me. i was struggling making this video even though it was a very simple mod that took no time at all. i'm so weak i could barely bend that small piece of thin steel. i got a ways to go to get better.
great video, when I did mine, I used 2 pieces of 1/8th flat bar and bent them over a socket in the vice (easier to bend)and tacked them in place. I needed to add a 1/4 " piece to the locks that come out on the arms, as the implement will come up when dropped down otherwise..
very good yes the implement will only come up if the three point is all the way down or said implement goes over a high spot in the terrain you are driving on. since the three point is gravity down " not pressure down " it makes no difference because it will always come up regardless and simply lift the entire three point. I have never had one come out of the lower lock if that is what you were concerned about. I was concerned myself at first and thought the lower lift arms may slip out however upon lowering the three point and trying to make it jump out I have yet to have that happen. sounds like you did a great mod. mine looks like I could only add about a quarter inch or less to the bottom of those retaining locks or they would not open. I may take another look at mine since you mentioned it. did you add a piece or simply build up a weld bead?
Dave loved the video your a man after my own heart no fast forward like other guys use I to have no fast forward to use in my shop the job is done it is functional I always tend to take the short cuts it may lot look pretty but is always functional and allows the knockers to have something to talk about most of the time the ones who make the loudest comments never do a damn thing keep on going
How's she goin'? Nice mod Dave!!! I just got a quick hitch and the first thing I noticed it not all attachments can be hooked up 'quick' and that they all need the adapter bushings. This looks like a good solution for the adapter problem!!! Take care!!!
yeah its not a perfect world I guess. this does help things work better and I can use my quick hitch with almost all my implements now. cant use it with the post hole digger, my tiller wont work cause its offset tiller, bottom plow of course and the finish mower works but not great. all the rest work pretty good on the quick hitch.
I built my indicator for my Top and Side links... It turned out nice.. I used flatbar to wrap it.. I liked that version better. I'm putting the finishing touches on the HF Quick Hitch Modification. I made it like it should have been to begin with.. The top swinging Flat bar actually holds the pin down and solid.. I had slop and slack and rattling if I can help it. My box blade would not take the top hook.. I had to shave it down the rear end of the hook to 3/4" x 1-3/16".. From the 1-1/2" x 1-3/16", and I still had to make it longer to keep from hitting the bolts that hold the hook to the hitch by the flatbar coming to the top link from the box blade.. Kodiak HD 7 foot box blade.. Question.. I don't have any links on my lower arms to keep them from swinging right to left.. I have the pins under the rear axle.. I only have one chain on either side to keep them from swinging out and hitting the tires.. Pain the arse when it swings one way or the other when trying to hook up the Quick Hitch.. Question,, Do you have the lift arms rigid left to right when running the box blade? I have seen a telescoping arm with adjustment holes to adjust the length, and I see a screw arm on yours that seems that you don't change, but, just leave on there.. Not sure why mine are missing on this tractor.. (Old but new to me).. 1984 Ford 3910 4wd.. I'm not sure if it needs to be able to swing left/right or, if it should stay right in the middle where it belongs, or better yet, why my tractor doesn't have these, or why someone would remove and not use them.. In all of the quick hitch hookup videos, I never saw the quick hitch swing right and left.. Not sure if people make it rigid and then let it swing once it is hooked up.. I havn't seen you address it, but, never see any videos where they are not hooked up and being used. Hey.. Thanks for the ideas, and thanks for the measurement video you did after my inquiry.. Much appreciated.. And, thanks for the inspiration...
I run my lower lift arm check chains in tight via a turn buckle then back off each one about 1/2 to 1 full turn. this allows a little wiggle room for raising and lowering the three point but not to much slack that is slings around side to side when using rear implements. a little side to side movement is ok. more likely yours got broke and never replaced. they do break when put in a bind. a tractor is a fragile tool that must be used with finesse more so than brute strength and abuse. check my video on the side link level indicator its pretty sweet! hope to patent it but feel free to make one for your own personal use. ua-cam.com/video/sVt-_KRGqt8/v-deo.html
@@daveknowshow I watched that one.. Good idea.. I can see some difficulties getting it to travel that much from end to end using a standard slip cable like that.. Would be nice to have both the top and side links side by side like that.. I did the side link, just like the top link.. Both can be seen fairly well as long as you can twist around and still keep your foot near the clutch if needed.. Ha.. If it will stop raining a bit, I will finish the Quick Hitch today.. The top hook hooking up to the Kodiak is the last issue and getting the weight back on the lift arms, instead of on the top link only.. The 15-1/4 center of lower pins to center of top pins, should have been either 15 or 18" , rather than both +1/4".. I built up the bottom hook where the snap over lever actually holds the pin tight.. Raised it up about an inch.. Need to raise the inside of the top hitch now 3/4 to match.. Going to stay just under 3/4" to keep the weight on the lift arms. Had to take off 3/4" of the thickness of the outer top arm hook to fit between the bushing holding the back bracket to the front and the top pin.. Really need to heat it and bend it out a bit to solve another problem.. Either that, or drill another set of holes for the top pin on the Box Blade to bring the hole closer to the hitch.. Might do both and pick which I like better.. Wish I had more implements to decide that one, but, only have the box at the moment.. Will build a trailer mover at least, maybe a carry all, and maybe a boom.. Have some other work to do after I finish this, and may get caught by my season opening up, and may be next fall before I get to it. Thanks for the tip on the link.. I'll be putting one or a pair back on there.. If I keep the quick hitch on there, seems only one would be needed.. No quick hitch, a second would be needed.. Probably need a pair anyway, just to keep things balanced though.. Cheers Dave..
@@MarkThomas123 I removed about a 1/2 inch from the front of my top hook as well. been working on a video showing that but not finished yet. to much rain here as well.
I did a good bit of mods to the top hook too.. Had it pretty damn precise.. within less than a 1/16 of my target. I have the bottom flip out arms holding the bottom pins pretty solid, with almost zero slop.. But, I am learning that you have to have some slop to make the dang thing work.. You have to let it have some wiggle room to fall into place.. It just isn't going to go perfect every time you load it up.. You would think if you made a "V" and got the thing into it, it would slide down due to the weight, but, there is as much equal weight holding up the ass end that pushes forward when you lift it, so, you have to have some slop to let it move,, or it will just sit right there waiting for a bump or jar to set it in place.. I was going to post a video showing the mods I made, but, I don't want to mislead someone and have them run into the same trouble I ran into, because it was the last mod I made,, getting everything into very close tollerance that got me back into trouble.. I am going to go back and add some slop into the top hook and the pins and see if I can get some better averages of hooking it up and having everything fall into place.. I went from 2 out of 3 times, to 2 out of 5 times when I tightened things up a bit more.. I posted the video Unlisted until I finish it up if you want to see what I did up to this point.. Should not change much.. Just adding back some slop in the top hitch portion of the setup.. ua-cam.com/video/sC-hHkzZfhM/v-deo.html
looks good, I agree it does need some slop to it. my concern with the top hook would be if it comes off the top when the top link is extended and you use the box blade to push stuff in reverse. the bottom pins would pivot and the top pin would hinge out. this is why they make the hook deep on the top as well as the bottom. since 99% of these tractor three points are gravity down only a real tight tolerance is not really critical up and down more critical front and back of slot as that affects the top link adjustment. hope that makes sense. mine are still fairly loose even with the mods
Thanks Dave! after watching your video, it gave me an idea for solving this issue in a not so permanent way. I uploaded a video of what I ended up doing if you want to see the results.
Dave.. Thinking about getting the HF Quick Hitch for my Tractor. I have a Ford 3910 with a Top Link Hydraulic Cylinder and a RH Hydraulic also.. I was wondering... What is the width of the thick hooks on the bottom arms and top arm connection points on the HF hitch? And, what is the width at the top, behind (closer to tractor) where the top link arm hooks up? The nuckle on my hydraulic top link is a minimum of 2" wide for zero clearance. It is CAT 1 = 3/4" pins though.. Just a whopping big knuckle the pin goes through.. If not, I am going to make my own quick connect.. Have to get off of the tractor anyway to lock things down, so, will make something simple to lock the bottom pins in.. If it is somewhere easy to measure the height between center of the bottom pins to center of the top pin, I would be interested to know that too.. I see it is adjustable up and down on the top link.. HF is 1.5 hours East of me.. Kind of a pain to drive over and measure it.. If you don't have time, I fully understand... Thanks for the videos.. Keep em coming.. :)
I will try and measure it tomorrow dark out there right now. I want to say its like 27 1/2 between centers on the bottom. I will measure the opening where the ball swivel goes in for the bottom and the top connection points. the harbor freight ones are not always exactly the same dimensions. I just bought my third one for a new project and it measures a little different. the top hook is adjustable up and down and that's a good thing because I have to adjust mine for certain implements.
I imagine you could do that. the only issues I could speculate there may be is the material the bushings are made of. if its a hardened steel like AR400 abrasion resistant type or tool steel type they do not weld very easily and often crack and break right around the weld point. the AR type can be welded with the proper set up and attention to detail. of course that is welding AR to AR and not so much welding AR to what ever steel these quick hitches are made of. so in theory yes you could cut the bushing and that would eliminate having to bend metal. if the bushings are just regular steel then you will be fine. just grind off the protective coating that is often on the outside of the bushing. I would be interested in how this turns out so if you do it let me know how it welds and if it holds up. you can leave the information under this comment thread so others can locate the information as well. thanks for the suggestion this may help many people who do not have the means to bend up a proper fitting half bushing.
Thanks Dave I wish I would have found this sooner. I do have all my Implements on the lower cost quick hitch . BUT!! The Amazon bushings and adapters to make it work make me feel like a moron. Good thing I was a Welder years ago. Your method could have saved me $$$$$$. It even cost me a 4" Vice that shattered when setting a roll pin. ( I know I need a press but that's another issue ) GOOD JOB !!!!!!!!!!!
those bushing are pricey and a lot of trouble to be home build. my ole cheapo quick hitch is going strong still.
Thanks. I have a couple bushings but also have a couple home made attachments.. And those nice factory made bushings are priced too high..They figure, if you can plunk $400 for an iMatch, why not hit you $40 for some nice looking bushings. I don't like that. I found some square tubing (probably 1 inch 14 gauge?) that would do the trick. Cut me a 2.5 inch length and it can work.
heck yeah if it works why not.
U can get the Speeco quick hitch made that way
Good to know
Wow you did it the easy way.
I went through tractor tools with torch and welder, making them quick hitch adaptable, then add loose sleeves making them cat 2. I'm 72 had a stroke 10 years ago. I love my quick hitch. I even made a 12" bottom plow quick hitch.
it was easier than having all the bushing. I like the quick hitch ok but its not something I use that much. infact I mostly use it if I'm going to a job site where I'm grading a driveway or yard and need to carry the boxblade, york rake, and road blade and change from one to another fast for that specific job. when the tractor is being used at my house I dont use the quick hitch that much since I never use the quick hitch on the finish mower, tiller or brush hog 99% of the time. the quick hitch can damage the pto safety shield on certain implements like the finish mower if your not careful.
Nicely done, Dave. I viewed this video several times and I like how you closed the gap. You made a couple 1/4 inch j-hooks and tacked them in and a couple pieces of rod to decrease the space in the top hook. Thumbs up and thanks.
since this video I have also milled out the top hook moving the slot rearward away from the back of the tractor about a half an inch. then removed the 1/4 inch rods and replaced them with 5/8 thick flat stock. this really improved the hook up process making the entire quick hitch work better with most of my implements.
Really nice Dave. I also checked out the video JIMeRIG sent you with similar mods. He gave shout-out and credit to you and your mods on the QH. I made a comment that I'll probably combine both of your mods when I finally break down and get the QH and do my mods on it. That's what I really enjoy about UA-cam and the tractor community. Such great ideas. Thanks, brother.
yes I seen his video. he is a really nice person we talked about the QH mods together for a while. I watch his videos regularly.
The extended hook gave me enough room to hook up my box blade with the HF quick hitch. I got mine from Amazon and it was about 50 bucks. As I said before the bottom bolt or pin hit the frame of the implement and I needed about another half inch of room. I think Agri Supply has a hook that might work for a lot less money, under 20 dollars. But I got free shipping on Amazon and free returns. I sold my torch and welder long ago or I would have made a hook that worked myself. For the bushings, I used a piece of black iron pipe from Lowe's, sawed up to fit. It's a shame HF and the Chinese won't fix the hook problem.
I agree I never understood why they make a cat 1 quick hitch with cat 2 lower lift lugs and a top hook that sucks at best. I bought the agri hook to try and since I needed to add a third bolt hole for position adjustment the agri hook would not work for me. I think I show the agri hook in another video about quick hitches on my channel. thanks for the valuable input. these QH are great once you get them modified up to work with every implement. as I stated many times before I would rather mod up a 89 dollar HF than to mod up a 400 dollar landpride. lol
@@daveknowshow Yep. Soon as I get rich I'm gonna get me one of them hydraulic top links like yours. I'd like to have a Kubota tractor like yours too. Instead of my Ferguson TO 20 and my JD 5200.
@@lareemcra347 nothing wrong with the fergy or the JD I have operated both and both are very capable tractors. you should get the hydraulic top link its a game changer for sure!
Glad to see u out making a video. I sure enjoy ur tractor stuff and fabricating various items. They all seem to have a good useful purpose. Sorry to hear about ur health problems but hang in there we're all sending a prayer ur way. Lots of tractor brothers and sisters out here rooting for u. Good luck,God bless.
thank you so much! that means the world to me. i was struggling making this video even though it was a very simple mod that took no time at all. i'm so weak i could barely bend that small piece of thin steel. i got a ways to go to get better.
That's a pretty good idea, Dave.
thanks Tom its still holding up well and I did a couple of these mods for my neighbors and friends.
Good to see you out and about Dave!
thanks! it was good to be outside. it was a struggle I'm still right weak. I did enjoy making the video.
great video, when I did mine, I used 2 pieces of 1/8th flat bar and bent them over a socket in the vice (easier to bend)and tacked them in place. I needed to add a 1/4 " piece to the locks that come out on the arms, as the implement will come up when dropped down otherwise..
very good yes the implement will only come up if the three point is all the way down or said implement goes over a high spot in the terrain you are driving on. since the three point is gravity down " not pressure down " it makes no difference because it will always come up regardless and simply lift the entire three point. I have never had one come out of the lower lock if that is what you were concerned about. I was concerned myself at first and thought the lower lift arms may slip out however upon lowering the three point and trying to make it jump out I have yet to have that happen. sounds like you did a great mod. mine looks like I could only add about a quarter inch or less to the bottom of those retaining locks or they would not open. I may take another look at mine since you mentioned it. did you add a piece or simply build up a weld bead?
Dave loved the video your a man after my own heart no fast forward like other guys use I to have no fast forward to use in my shop the job is done it is functional I always tend to take the short cuts it may lot look pretty but is always functional and allows the knockers to have something to talk about most of the time the ones who make the loudest comments never do a damn thing keep on going
How's she goin'? Nice mod Dave!!! I just got a quick hitch and the first thing I noticed it not all attachments can be hooked up 'quick' and that they all need the adapter bushings. This looks like a good solution for the adapter problem!!! Take care!!!
yeah its not a perfect world I guess. this does help things work better and I can use my quick hitch with almost all my implements now. cant use it with the post hole digger, my tiller wont work cause its offset tiller, bottom plow of course and the finish mower works but not great. all the rest work pretty good on the quick hitch.
I built my indicator for my Top and Side links...
It turned out nice.. I used flatbar to wrap it.. I liked that version better.
I'm putting the finishing touches on the HF Quick Hitch Modification.
I made it like it should have been to begin with..
The top swinging Flat bar actually holds the pin down and solid..
I had slop and slack and rattling if I can help it.
My box blade would not take the top hook.. I had to shave it down the rear end of the hook to 3/4" x 1-3/16".. From the 1-1/2" x 1-3/16", and I still had to make it longer to keep from hitting the bolts that hold the hook to the hitch by the flatbar coming to the top link from the box blade..
Kodiak HD 7 foot box blade..
Question..
I don't have any links on my lower arms to keep them from swinging right to left.. I have the pins under the rear axle..
I only have one chain on either side to keep them from swinging out and hitting the tires.. Pain the arse when it swings one way or the other when trying to hook up the Quick Hitch..
Question,, Do you have the lift arms rigid left to right when running the box blade? I have seen a telescoping arm with adjustment holes to adjust the length, and I see a screw arm on yours that seems that you don't change, but, just leave on there.. Not sure why mine are missing on this tractor.. (Old but new to me).. 1984 Ford 3910 4wd..
I'm not sure if it needs to be able to swing left/right or, if it should stay right in the middle where it belongs, or better yet, why my tractor doesn't have these, or why someone would remove and not use them..
In all of the quick hitch hookup videos, I never saw the quick hitch swing right and left.. Not sure if people make it rigid and then let it swing once it is hooked up.. I havn't seen you address it, but, never see any videos where they are not hooked up and being used.
Hey.. Thanks for the ideas, and thanks for the measurement video you did after my inquiry.. Much appreciated..
And, thanks for the inspiration...
I run my lower lift arm check chains in tight via a turn buckle then back off each one about 1/2 to 1 full turn. this allows a little wiggle room for raising and lowering the three point but not to much slack that is slings around side to side when using rear implements. a little side to side movement is ok. more likely yours got broke and never replaced. they do break when put in a bind. a tractor is a fragile tool that must be used with finesse more so than brute strength and abuse. check my video on the side link level indicator its pretty sweet! hope to patent it but feel free to make one for your own personal use. ua-cam.com/video/sVt-_KRGqt8/v-deo.html
@@daveknowshow I watched that one.. Good idea.. I can see some difficulties getting it to travel that much from end to end using a standard slip cable like that.. Would be nice to have both the top and side links side by side like that.. I did the side link, just like the top link.. Both can be seen fairly well as long as you can twist around and still keep your foot near the clutch if needed.. Ha..
If it will stop raining a bit, I will finish the Quick Hitch today.. The top hook hooking up to the Kodiak is the last issue and getting the weight back on the lift arms, instead of on the top link only.. The 15-1/4 center of lower pins to center of top pins, should have been either 15 or 18" , rather than both +1/4"..
I built up the bottom hook where the snap over lever actually holds the pin tight.. Raised it up about an inch.. Need to raise the inside of the top hitch now 3/4 to match.. Going to stay just under 3/4" to keep the weight on the lift arms.
Had to take off 3/4" of the thickness of the outer top arm hook to fit between the bushing holding the back bracket to the front and the top pin.. Really need to heat it and bend it out a bit to solve another problem..
Either that, or drill another set of holes for the top pin on the Box Blade to bring the hole closer to the hitch.. Might do both and pick which I like better.. Wish I had more implements to decide that one, but, only have the box at the moment.. Will build a trailer mover at least, maybe a carry all, and maybe a boom.. Have some other work to do after I finish this, and may get caught by my season opening up, and may be next fall before I get to it. Thanks for the tip on the link.. I'll be putting one or a pair back on there.. If I keep the quick hitch on there, seems only one would be needed.. No quick hitch, a second would be needed.. Probably need a pair anyway, just to keep things balanced though.. Cheers Dave..
@@MarkThomas123 I removed about a 1/2 inch from the front of my top hook as well. been working on a video showing that but not finished yet. to much rain here as well.
I did a good bit of mods to the top hook too.. Had it pretty damn precise.. within less than a 1/16 of my target.
I have the bottom flip out arms holding the bottom pins pretty solid, with almost zero slop..
But, I am learning that you have to have some slop to make the dang thing work.. You have to let it have some wiggle room to fall into place.. It just isn't going to go perfect every time you load it up..
You would think if you made a "V" and got the thing into it, it would slide down due to the weight, but, there is as much equal weight holding up the ass end that pushes forward when you lift it, so, you have to have some slop to let it move,, or it will just sit right there waiting for a bump or jar to set it in place..
I was going to post a video showing the mods I made, but, I don't want to mislead someone and have them run into the same trouble I ran into, because it was the last mod I made,, getting everything into very close tollerance that got me back into trouble.. I am going to go back and add some slop into the top hook and the pins and see if I can get some better averages of hooking it up and having everything fall into place.. I went from 2 out of 3 times, to 2 out of 5 times when I tightened things up a bit more..
I posted the video Unlisted until I finish it up if you want to see what I did up to this point.. Should not change much.. Just adding back some slop in the top hitch portion of the setup..
ua-cam.com/video/sC-hHkzZfhM/v-deo.html
looks good, I agree it does need some slop to it. my concern with the top hook would be if it comes off the top when the top link is extended and you use the box blade to push stuff in reverse. the bottom pins would pivot and the top pin would hinge out. this is why they make the hook deep on the top as well as the bottom. since 99% of these tractor three points are gravity down only a real tight tolerance is not really critical up and down more critical front and back of slot as that affects the top link adjustment. hope that makes sense. mine are still fairly loose even with the mods
Simple and easy!
I know I like simple and easy. this has really been a worth while mod.
Ingenious
it sure has helped make things easier.
Thanks Dave! after watching your video, it gave me an idea for solving this issue in a not so permanent way. I uploaded a video of what I ended up doing if you want to see the results.
Absolutely I'm excited to see it! thanks for letting me know.
Dave.. Thinking about getting the HF Quick Hitch for my Tractor. I have a Ford 3910 with a Top Link Hydraulic Cylinder and a RH Hydraulic also.. I was wondering...
What is the width of the thick hooks on the bottom arms and top arm connection points on the HF hitch?
And, what is the width at the top, behind (closer to tractor) where the top link arm hooks up?
The nuckle on my hydraulic top link is a minimum of 2" wide for zero clearance. It is CAT 1 = 3/4" pins though.. Just a whopping big knuckle the pin goes through..
If not, I am going to make my own quick connect.. Have to get off of the tractor anyway to lock things down, so, will make something simple to lock the bottom pins in..
If it is somewhere easy to measure the height between center of the bottom pins to center of the top pin, I would be interested to know that too.. I see it is adjustable up and down on the top link..
HF is 1.5 hours East of me.. Kind of a pain to drive over and measure it..
If you don't have time, I fully understand... Thanks for the videos.. Keep em coming.. :)
I will try and measure it tomorrow dark out there right now. I want to say its like 27 1/2 between centers on the bottom. I will measure the opening where the ball swivel goes in for the bottom and the top connection points. the harbor freight ones are not always exactly the same dimensions. I just bought my third one for a new project and it measures a little different. the top hook is adjustable up and down and that's a good thing because I have to adjust mine for certain implements.
here ya go ua-cam.com/video/syF5zW3t6mE/v-deo.html
Couldn’t you buy one set of bushings cut them in half and weld it in place?
I imagine you could do that. the only issues I could speculate there may be is the material the bushings are made of. if its a hardened steel like AR400 abrasion resistant type or tool steel type they do not weld very easily and often crack and break right around the weld point. the AR type can be welded with the proper set up and attention to detail. of course that is welding AR to AR and not so much welding AR to what ever steel these quick hitches are made of. so in theory yes you could cut the bushing and that would eliminate having to bend metal. if the bushings are just regular steel then you will be fine. just grind off the protective coating that is often on the outside of the bushing. I would be interested in how this turns out so if you do it let me know how it welds and if it holds up. you can leave the information under this comment thread so others can locate the information as well. thanks for the suggestion this may help many people who do not have the means to bend up a proper fitting half bushing.
Nice mod and good video. What's wrong with your chop saw? I think you need a new blade!
yes I did need a new blade in fact I just finally replaced it. that thing had gotten dangerous it was so out of whack!
Nice, too bad they don't come that way.
isn't that the truth!
Great video as usual, glad you are still able to get out there and do what you love. Take it easy, and take care of yourself Dave.
thanks brother, I'm trying to push through it. good days and bad one day at a time. miss being on the tractor.
I make a tab up and tacked it on..