How to Screen Print | 1 Hit White Plastisol Screen Printing Technique | T-Shirt Printing Tutorial
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- Опубліковано 29 бер 2018
- How to Screen Print | Screen Printing Tutorial.
Im chasing that 1 Hit White Plastisol Screen Printing Technique to test and see if it can be achieved easily. Screen Printing Tutorial
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I did a bunch of other things that simply got cut out because of time restriction they will be included in part 2.
The Print Life love your videos
Seriously, just stick to being a quality shop, avoid the one coat wonder crap...
Ha love how candidly you critique products and methods! That's why I watch the channel!
Glad I bought a flash dryer!! Seems like I will definitely need it! Thanks a bunch.
Amazing! This video actually includes so many critical screen printing tips
Somebody who told me on youtube that it was just about 'technique', can't even pull a squeegee right.
Glad I came across your channel man. Subbed.
You make great videos. Very informative and fun to watch. I am inspired. Keep them coming. Thank you
Love this video so helpful 😎🤙🏾
Thanks for the time taken in making this video to help the printers I give my vote to the ex caliber white
i really love you printshop :-o it's simple but awesome. i hope that someday i will have that too.
I enjoyed this video quite a bit... I've tried some of these techniques and I've come to the conclusion that for me, I'd rather just do a P/F/P than fuss over all of the extra effort. I do reduce my white ink with curable reducer and almost never use a 110 mesh screen. I prefer a 160 mesh and a 10 to 15 percent reduced white on P/F/P. I am looking forward to the next video on this topic. Thanks Cam-o!
Fun test. 1 hit white waste of effort on anything bold with tons of coverage. Good creamy white slightly thinned print flash print always better than the struggle and easier on the hands. Keep up the fun vids.
Your practical approach is best advice of it all. If cant teach it and do it daily who cares.
For those personality types who need there egos stoked go rock it.
Thanks for the info and examples.
Exactly, If it aint teachable its not gonna work.
Love your videos, but MAJOR props for the Steelers logo on the wall!
This is interesting, I like the Xcalibur ink. Great video
RhyBeats in Texas I've tried Excalibur and it wasn't good what's the type of Excalibur white called , mine was called arctic white I think and it seemed less creamy more stringy.
that left one is clean!!!
Bill Hood makes it look easy lol. I love his stuff, he breaks down the technical things that need to be in place to conquer some of the variables of screen printing. When I talked to him about it, he said once you get it with white, you can get it in every color. He mentioned pressure as you want the ink on top of the fabric. When I was trying, I had to use enough pressure to clear the screen and it was getting driven down into the shirt. I've since got better at printing so I wanna make another go with it.
Hi Jason, life would be a bit simpler if we could master some of his ideas. Is he as grumpy in real life as he seems in his youtube clips?
Peter Bryant - haha. He's not grumpy at all...but I can see why you'd think that lol.
Before watching this vlog. I seriously don't think that this is achievable for an ALL WHITE design... But thanks to this vlog. I am now more convinced. Good Job Cam. :)
I get really good coverage using a 110 screen and the ez grip squegee w/ a 70 durometer blade. No need to pfp. Make sure blade is sharp AF and is bending long ways during your stroke.
Dont know how to explain it but this is the exact question i had, and I am just getting into screen printing and getting familiar with plastisol inks and the curing process, this video was almost perfect and i learned a lot
Excalibur white looks the best to me. Also I think having watch the video I also think that a the push technique seems to also give a better result and would like to have seen the Excalibur ink with that stroke.
Wilflex tiger white is a game changer ! Mixed with a 156 a mesh on an auto gets my whites ultra bright first try
Do bright tiger still exists?
@@marioherrera3691 It does! Check with your local retailer. We currently run bright tiger with a 156 S mesh as our underbases and highlights
Awesome video, you make it look easy and fun! Maybe a daft question, but when printing white to black, where do you get the image you're using to template it? Can you do that in a normal printer? Or do you get it specially made somewhere? Just starting out so hope you guys will excuse the novice questions! :)
Left definitely looks better!!!
Looks decent I still prefer the look and feel of a Print, Flash, Flatten, print
Thank you for your channel! and your shop software. I have a one person shop that I shut the doors on for a year!!! frustrated.... after investing a ton of money... I mean Ipurchased a ROQ for goodness sakes, watching your videos has made me kick the racoons out of my building and I'm back at it. ink under my nails. Re-branding and trying again. Thanks for making a difference for this Texas Girl :)
I think the Excalibur ink look little bit better, but I think we still need to print flash print. Thanks Ken.
Thx for the vid bro!
ahhhhh, the illusive one hit white....still not convinced it can be done!
Informative
I have done this work before and I used 70 mesh with double coat(for edge clarity and thickness) on a Newman roller frame with med soft squeegee. With a hard pull wet stroke and push stroke for print
I was able to achieve it a satisfactory result but never a good as print, flash and print on a 160
Customers did not complain and were very happy
Slowing down your print stroke will really help. I actually just had to go over printing white ink with one of my employees after he printed a 36 piece (1 cf, 1cb) job and they all came out looking *terrible*. Thankfully I was able to save them by flattening them with my heat transfer machine. Anyway, his stroke was way too fast! I had him slow it down just a tad and voila....perfection! EDIt: The stroke you use @ 8:55 was perfect. Guess my theory about slowing down your stroke is for naught. Lol!
You're so helpful and hilarious
the xcalibur was a nice one pass cover,. with out using puff, and others ,
Yo man..u look like Cornor Mcgregor .. Lol.. Thanks 4 ur tips..its very helpful..
This seems like a really cool job especially for a part time teen like me if it's enjoyable enough I'd prolly even full time there
For sure it's super fun to mess around with screen printing at home, Just be careful once you start it is hard to stop!
Chasing the whole one hit wonder is useless! We PFP all our white jobs using Wilflex inks printed through a 200 mesh. Lays down the least amount of white with amazing brightness. We ain't got time for guess work, we got shirts to print!!
Thanks for this vid! I keep hearing about this one stroke ink but I figured this would happen. Maybe its possible on a automatic
Yea I really think it comes down to the screen prep and a thicker stencil, even then I doubt it.
The Print Life hey cam.... I been using one stroke for prob 15 years.... opacity is great, but one stroke print will never be achieved
Delph the white bul agreed
Interesting vid!
It seemed that the tension on the first screen was a bit loose (to me, from here)
The other thing is the off contact.
yea the first screen was shit, a total wash didnt matter though, It's just sorta a myth, atleast with big white images it is.
I did a run of white prints on black shirts a few years ago for a metal band. I got it done with 2 - 3 strokes, no flashing and it looked great. But it was only achievable because they wanted cheap shirts. I used a local(South-African) brand that is akin to freaking sack-cloth. They felt horrible but looked great. But honestly it's not a sacrifice I'm willing to make. So I would rather HFH than print on rubbish shirts.
Keep up the great work.
Love the video and your efforts. But, after much trial and error, I have gone back to the double hit, flash, double hit, flash, and cure. That's the only way I've been able to accomplish a good solid white print. Every other method I've tried has resulted in a more opaque print.
Do you have a video on that squeegee sharping setup you have
Use higher duometer squeezee, dark blue 85A with 200+ mesh count screen and firm pressure to clean out stencil fully w ink. It will be thin and well divided white
watching your videos is convincing me more to get into screen printing. keep the videos coming.
yes .. do it .. I am ..
lol
Its a fun infuriating business. Have fun
Hey nice vid. Could you make a zoom to your razor squeege?? If is possible how to build one cheers
He already has a video on that, search his channel for that
Thanks
Nice.
Good video
Mclogans supply has a very nice opaque white called “legacy white”. Maybe using that will leave it whiter.
Hello, i want to start a tshirt business here in philippines. Hope to have pieces of advice from you. I like your videos inspired me to why not start my own. ☺️
Would the EZ Squeegee make a difference.
Try using Wilflex Bright Tiger, much more opaque than Amazing White. Its more of a premium ink so its is more expensive but man is it nice. Clears the screen and is a great ink. On S mesh and thicker coat you had.
Right on thanks for the tip, I will give it a try.
Agreed. Considering ink only accounts for about 5% of your overhead...there’s no need to worry over the cost of the ink itself. You could be using ink that is super expensive but if it reduces production times i.e. labor, it’s money well spent. Personally, in the ( oh good lord ) 26 years I’ve been a printer, the only time I’ve been able to achieve a true one hit white was through an 86 mesh with 2 coats on the print side first; three coats inside. Dry. 2 coats print side. Then ( and this was on an automatic press ) a 60 durometer squeegee set at a roughly 45 degree angle and just a “kiss” of pressure as there were no pressure controls back on old M&R Gauntlets.
As for Murakami S mesh, it’s hands down the best mesh and as long as you keep up with monitoring your Newtons you’re good to go.
Still though we rely on a print flash print method for almost every job as we are corporate contract printers and they all love that heavy coverage.
Mad props for giving it a try !!
Great vid! I still think you need white ink with some pixie 🧚♀️ dust in it for it to truly work. Like you we use Wilflex day in and day out.
yea I had a whole segment where I experimented with the thickener 2 from wilflex, edited it out, I even went into a bunch of high density stuff trying to get it to work, again edited out just for times sake it will be a whole other video.
The Print Life I think we are a lot like you. If it’s meant to be bright, it better be almost blinding.
I can't do that and don't worry about it, but what was your off contact? Tension of your screens? Pallets warmed at all?
How about using a diff. Squeegee a softer blade like the yellow blade
I find that using pressure is the problem as it pushes ink into the shirt. i personally think less pressure allows the ink to sit on top of the shirt thus being more opaque. also if the ink is cooled it is thicker as ink will thin when agitated (eg flood and print) and even thinner when heated eg hot pallets heating up flooded inks. agitation and heat thins ink that is why you get a cmyk design looking cool then after 15/20 shirts it starts to get dark. so mix the inks(agitate) and warm them up and you should get sam looking first shirt looking same as last shirt. i do loads of cmyk designs for river island on black tees. im a colour separator in the uk i do work for Live-Nation, bravado, done thousands of Harley Davidsons this is when Live-Nation was called delux the very top of high end seps for bands and concerts all over the world. the guy below said put 2%puff in the ub too. to be honest i think its a good idea for some designs. you may think im a nerd but to be honest i too like to problem solve, i was in the image magazine in 1998 with scot fresner, he uses colour range in photoshop, very primative but can work with cartoon like designs but i would never entertain the thought, this is the first time i ever replied to these comments thingy, but you came across as genuine , bra if ever you need a sep done feel free to contact me at bretkeppler@gmail.com ill do it free if i have time.anyway bra, be cool and God bless
Do you have a site for the brand of Ink and the "s" screen. I'm struggling with black hoodies and white ink. All the white ink I buy is so thick and do not thin out at all with reducer
nice
that first print looks fine to me
Your videos are fuckin awesome my friend. Informative, realistic, no boo shih
So many comments not sure if this has been brought up yet. I noticed the 80 duro squeegee you're using maybe try a 70 and lay down a bit more ink? Might be obvious and you've already thought of it but hey! I gotta try right
Hi, when you say 110 mesh do you mean 43T in UK metric? I’ve been using 43T and all my prints keep coming out wayy too heavy and leave spiky bits of ink - do you have any advice? Many thanks
Maybe, I'm just guessing maybe the white is going threw the shirt on to the pallete.
Nice videos
i noticed you have a QUARTZ FLASH what brand is it? model number???? how does it affect your POWER BILL? between the IR flash and the quartz?? are you happy with it??
good
2:10 - 2:20 totally made sense 👍
Question for ya...Why after doing three shirts with no problem, on a two color white and red, the red bled into the white? First three laid out perfect other then needing a better hit on the white but the fourth one looked like the red was wet and the white was wet too just bled into it and turned pinkish red? white was print flash print and red was single hit on top...
Does thinner mesh thread mean a higher mesh count? Or are they 2 different things?
I'm kind of a newbie at screenprinting, but started making shirts of my art - which has a lot of fine detail.
I've been working at trying to get a good white ink print. Elusive. Do you have any tips for finer detail work in white?
I apologize if this is information you already know, but it never hurts to say! Add either a little bit or reducer or softhand into the ink, also make sure your pallet is warm, and do a few test prints as that will help warm up the ink and make it a bit smoother to print with. To keep up higher detail you wanna use like a 200 mesh. If your exposure times are dialed in right (use an exposure card) you might be able to get away with a 156. Also make sure you are doing a double hit, then flash it, then do a single hit on top of it. This will help that white pop...at least for plastisol. Holy trinity of factors to check: speed, pressure, angle. Bonus is squeegee hardness! Good luck with your work! :)
What kind of mesh do you use?
Hi, you used a squeegee sharpener in this video. Do you have a video showing how to make the sharpener?
It's in one of the vlog vids I watched it last week!
What shirt brand are you wearing in this video?
How about using an 86 mesh??..
also you can use a very opaque white ink
Not saying I've done it or am an expert, but I feel it has to do with a good coat on the mesh (thicker gasket) thin mesh and tensioned well (open those gaps between the mesh) loose ink that doesn't want to stick in the mesh on the first squeegee, a sharp edge on the squeegee (to shear the ink and break the bond between the mesh and ink) and sorry but yes, pressure and technique, if you are pushing any harder than absolutely necessary then you are not laying the ink on top of the fabric, any ink driven in won't look as bright. And if you have to do more than one hard flood before printing, are you really saving much effort or time? The angle of the hard flood can affect how much ink is loaded and could end up blobbing out of there's too much waiting for the print stroke. There's so many frickin variables in screen printing haha.
A thicker stencil equals more ink, add s-mesh , with a push at as close to a 70 degree angle, with an off contact 1/8 . I use 2 hits white no flash
What screen mesh you used?
Wait you coated again after putting the film on?
What's the point of different angle grip?
Ulano capillary film can be purchased in two different thickness 30 & 50. The 50 will load a greater volume of ink. I have had varying results on one coat white.
Imagination Apparel we use the 50 all the time with Wilflex and there is no way I could get a one hit white.
That is EXACTLY what I was attempting to indicate.
love the realness in this bro thank you for the videos im a retard and was doing it both ways whatever way worked untill it went thru only been using 110 mesh so far but definitely been feeding off your videos and my prints have been getting way better thank you
What mesh did you used?
Curious as to whether you use reducer or not? Either way, PFP seems to be the only option. Would reduce at least help?
I have heard mixed results from reducing in the industry, some swear by it others never do and get great results. We don't currently reduce our inks, maybe its time to give it another go and check results.
The Print Life ya I’ve heard similar feedback also. I guess we’ll never have all the answers! Haha thanks for taking the time for the response!
I’ve met some screen printers here in the Philippines who can get 1 hit whites on soft platens (platens with foam and a tarpaulin on top of wood). The way I see it, I think1 hit white is necessary for them because most of the soft platen users I met eyeball their registration.
Still learning though, and I don’t think I’ve printed something that’s even half marketable yet.
Left looks brighter.
Name of good white paint you use ?
With curing, the texture is not clean
Fusing might help
But it might turn out economical to use a single hit
But it clearly is not up to the mark in quality or smoothness
I'll take one of those shirts that were Heather grey if ya giving an out $)
in Philippines we use soft surface table. so you can achieve i hit high opacity easy haha
Add 5% or 2.5% puff to the paint and the off contact has to be like 3 Quarters high
Wow yea the puff makes sense but it didnt even think to run a screen with that much off contact!!!! I have never set a screen that high for any reason.
I also use high ass off contact and also reduce up to 10% with curable reducer. I have an automatic available and I will run a few tests myself on Monday.
I was gonna suggest this as well. I have yet to try it though.
That works.....i mix 5% in all my 5 gallon whites....with puff and its one hit white.... DEPENDS ON THE PROJECT
IS THAT A 110 MESH OR 43T? USING PLASTISOL?
The best way to get a very opaque white on dark textile is to print first a clear coat on the textile same image exactly.
Left
Add a liiiittle bit of puff base to the ink and see the result after it dries
That's a good idea, thanks for the comment and advice, will try that next time.
Do you need to adjust your exposure time with the double coated screen?
I want to get started by doing my military unit’s shirts. How much would it cost me to just get the screens made? I feel like that’s the only thing I cannot make.
You still do yourself a HUGE favor by learning how to coat and expose your own screens.
And where can I get some of those thin micron screens?
High mesh 195 or 200
I will preface this question by saying I am a newbie. In fact I haven’t printed a single thing. My question is how much does the fabric that you are printing on come in to play with this experiment?
Does anybody knows why my plastisol stay in the squeegee becomes very sticky so I have to use a spatula to move it down from the squeegee
Rutland Cotton white is the best
Use Excalibur Plastex Waterbase White. Buttery smooth and very opake with very minimal pressure. Stretches just like oil based plastisol. Meets all environmental standards. Prints on almost anything without any additives including spandex, leather, nylon, lycra and poly blends without bleeding and hardly any fibrillation. Cleanup is just with water.
Its been a while but if I remember correctly this could be the one hit white people are looking for assuming all variables are controlled. You don’t need to do the less pressure technique which loses detail after several prints. Just push stroke with a slightly higher than 75 degree angle. Adjust angle if necessary.
If you print flash print with this ink it looks awesome and it doesn’t have a heavy hand feel.
Excalibur hu, I use to love the plastisol from them. I will try it out.
I feel they don't have enough straight out of the bucket colors though.
lancergroup.com/product/plastex-high-stretch-water-based-ink/
I'm kind of a newbie at screenprinting, but started making shirts of my art - which has a lot of fine detail.
I've been working at trying to get a good white ink print. Elusive. Do you have any tips for finer detail work in white? Want to try the ink you recommended.
TheMuse TheMuse There are many variables that affect print which will be too much to explain in one post. But here are some suggestions.
Artwork: I’m not sure how to describe it but you first print out the artwork at actual size and determine which parts might close up during printing. From there use software to expand those areas so when you print it, it has enough space for ink to expand but not enough to close up. Same goes for very thin lines less than .25 point thickness. Make it easy on yourself and make it thick enough to burn on screen. Still possible to burn thin lines though.
When you apply it, press it a bit and it won't spread if you rub it on the t-shirt?!