I sometimes also have a bit of water on the anvil, occasionally. Surface rust goes away when hammering on it. But what I heard is that it actually isn´t for removing the scale but because the vapor forming rapidly like an airbag helps forming the cutting edge of the knife due working like a flattener. Have you heard anything in that direction too?
Hi there and thanks for the sub =) Yeah, it´s interesting for sure! I´ve learned most of the little I can from friends and instructional videos on the web, but I´m thinking of educate myself properly in this subject. It all started when I a friend of mine got into the world of blacksmithing, I thought it looked fun and decided to try as well...not far after, I had a small shop of my own ^^
The third thing would be that one oils it when it is not red anymore, this way you get only fire and steams, let it cool down to ~100-200°C and then put some oil on it.
You're welcome. Oh, linseed oil is okay, I think... But I wouldn't breathe it anyway, heh. Give it a couple of years of constant forge work and you'll be alright. Good luck :)
I like to have the anvil this way around. Tried the other way and I didn´t quite like it. Plus, the hardy hole should always be on the opposite side of the hammer-side. No, I´m a Swedish katana-smith. =P Dipping the hammers in water might be useful sometimes, you know? Makes the wood swell and fit to the hammerheads better. I see no reason to why I shouldn´t use water instead of a brush.
Some of my hammers are already sealed with lenseed oil, and I do not keep them in the water long enough to let the other ones start to rust / rot. "You should not...this and that" - I do whatever I like to with my tools (= Surely the Japanese hammers are different in style but their purpose is the same as my hammers.
The tools will start to rust and the wood will rott. You have a wedge to make the handle fit tighter and one would use oil to keep the wood sinous. These are your tools but a european smith should not treat his tools like this. The Japanese have different tools for different purposes.
PART 5: The section that hooks the bottle cap. Good, that's done pretty well there, actually. PART 6: The twisting. Not to bad, There's nothing really wrong with doing it like that. although you may want to make a 'twisting bar'. Just make either a U shaped bend at one end, on a tight S in the middle of the bar and there's your new tool. There's plenty on youtube of how to make and use them.
PART 4: Right, the scroll at the end of the taper. I know you have greater control when using the pliers, but that is probably due to hammer control. When you use pliers, you leave a very obvious sign that it was done that way: the flat spot you gripped the tip with. That's very obvious on this piece, if you turn it over the bic with brush-like hammer strokes you'll get a much nicer scroll. The rest of the bending you're doing at that point seems okay to me.
PART 2: Now the necking down (I assume that;'s what you're doing, as I have the video paused while I type and can't be sure yet). You hammer strokes are still very brush-like. Try to hit straight down, you may have heard about pushing the metal in the direction you want to move it in, but that comes later and you'll find it's much less of a concious feeling than you'd expect. It almost happens by accident.
Hello again, thank you alot for the answers / critique!! I shall keep these things in mind for the future. :) The oil I used for the quench was linseed oil.
But I also have some constructive critique I´d like to tell you. One thing is that your anvil should stand the other way around so you can stand next to the square horn and hit perpendicular to the workpiece - gives you better workflow, believe me ;-). The second thing would be that you ain´t no Japanese Katanasmith so please stop making your tools wet! =p. If you want to get rid of scale give it a brush instead.
PART 7: The oil quench. I don't know what kind of oil you're using, and I can't tell if you are or not, but you should hold your breath while quenching in oil. The smoke most oil gives off is cancerous, try not to breath it in. As a side note, if you ever smell almonds in your forge, hold your breath. the spray paint on springs is very cancerous, burns slightly blue, and reeks of almonds; don't be breathing it in. Anyway, I hope this helped.
PART 3: Okay, for your drawing down. Try to learn to use the bic, rather than doing it all on the face of the anvil, it's a bit more tricky, but it's a better way once you get used to it. Also, hammerwork is 80% in the wrist, and your wrist is staying quite still. When I was learning (not that I've stopped) I found that I left fewer dents when I used my wrist more.
Hi again. I don't know how specific you want me to be with this advice, but I'll type as I watch. Okay, first off, your upset. what you're doing is good, but... Try this, hit it 4 times, then turn the steel round (tongs away from you) and hit 4 more times, then repeat. That way you won't have to straighten it so often, you'll still have to occasionally, but not half as much.
I am looking for someone to make me about a 10 bottle opener. Just a standard flat handle with the oval opening on the end. I want the numbers 1955 stamped in it. Is there anyone out there that can do this for me. Get me your info if your interested in this. I am looking to make it into a handle for a drawer on a 1955 refrigerator that I'm restoring. Thanks.
Has been again a pleasure watching you work! The opener turned out great, the video is well made!
Less complicated but not a bit less epically awesome ;D!
I sometimes also have a bit of water on the anvil, occasionally. Surface rust goes away when hammering on it. But what I heard is that it actually isn´t for removing the scale but because the vapor forming rapidly like an airbag helps forming the cutting edge of the knife due working like a flattener. Have you heard anything in that direction too?
Hi there and thanks for the sub =) Yeah, it´s interesting for sure! I´ve learned most of the little I can from friends and instructional videos on the web, but I´m thinking of educate myself properly in this subject. It all started when I a friend of mine got into the world of blacksmithing, I thought it looked fun and decided to try as well...not far after, I had a small shop of my own ^^
The third thing would be that one oils it when it is not red anymore, this way you get only fire and steams, let it cool down to ~100-200°C and then put some oil on it.
You're welcome. Oh, linseed oil is okay, I think... But I wouldn't breathe it anyway, heh.
Give it a couple of years of constant forge work and you'll be alright. Good luck :)
I like to have the anvil this way around. Tried the other way and I didn´t quite like it. Plus, the hardy hole should always be on the opposite side of the hammer-side. No, I´m a Swedish katana-smith. =P Dipping the hammers in water might be useful sometimes, you know? Makes the wood swell and fit to the hammerheads better. I see no reason to why I shouldn´t use water instead of a brush.
It will take quite some time before your tools to start rust or rot when you keep them underwater.
Some of my hammers are already sealed with lenseed oil, and I do not keep them in the water long enough to let the other ones start to rust / rot. "You should not...this and that" - I do whatever I like to with my tools (= Surely the Japanese hammers are different in style but their purpose is the same as my hammers.
The tools will start to rust and the wood will rott. You have a wedge to make the handle fit tighter and one would use oil to keep the wood sinous. These are your tools but a european smith should not treat his tools like this. The Japanese have different tools for different purposes.
PART 5:
The section that hooks the bottle cap. Good, that's done pretty well there, actually.
PART 6:
The twisting. Not to bad, There's nothing really wrong with doing it like that. although you may want to make a 'twisting bar'. Just make either a U shaped bend at one end, on a tight S in the middle of the bar and there's your new tool. There's plenty on youtube of how to make and use them.
PART 4:
Right, the scroll at the end of the taper.
I know you have greater control when using the pliers, but that is probably due to hammer control.
When you use pliers, you leave a very obvious sign that it was done that way: the flat spot you gripped the tip with. That's very obvious on this piece, if you turn it over the bic with brush-like hammer strokes you'll get a much nicer scroll.
The rest of the bending you're doing at that point seems okay to me.
Thank you Daniel! I chose a little less complicated design after all.
PART 2:
Now the necking down (I assume that;'s what you're doing, as I have the video paused while I type and can't be sure yet). You hammer strokes are still very brush-like. Try to hit straight down, you may have heard about pushing the metal in the direction you want to move it in, but that comes later and you'll find it's much less of a concious feeling than you'd expect. It almost happens by accident.
Hello again, thank you alot for the answers / critique!! I shall keep these things in mind for the future. :) The oil I used for the quench was linseed oil.
But I also have some constructive critique I´d like to tell you. One thing is that your anvil should stand the other way around so you can stand next to the square horn and hit perpendicular to the workpiece - gives you better workflow, believe me ;-). The second thing would be that you ain´t no Japanese Katanasmith so please stop making your tools wet! =p. If you want to get rid of scale give it a brush instead.
PART 7:
The oil quench.
I don't know what kind of oil you're using, and I can't tell if you are or not, but you should hold your breath while quenching in oil. The smoke most oil gives off is cancerous, try not to breath it in.
As a side note, if you ever smell almonds in your forge, hold your breath. the spray paint on springs is very cancerous, burns slightly blue, and reeks of almonds; don't be breathing it in.
Anyway, I hope this helped.
I think it came out good this way also.
As I said these are your tools, just my point of view of making tools wet...
I think that I´ve read something similar somewhere, yes.
PART 3:
Okay, for your drawing down. Try to learn to use the bic, rather than doing it all on the face of the anvil, it's a bit more tricky, but it's a better way once you get used to it.
Also, hammerwork is 80% in the wrist, and your wrist is staying quite still. When I was learning (not that I've stopped) I found that I left fewer dents when I used my wrist more.
Hahah, nope, precisely...better avoid that! ;) Thank you very much!
Heheh, thanks again!
Hi again. I don't know how specific you want me to be with this advice, but I'll type as I watch.
Okay, first off, your upset. what you're doing is good, but... Try this, hit it 4 times, then turn the steel round (tongs away from you) and hit 4 more times, then repeat. That way you won't have to straighten it so often, you'll still have to occasionally, but not half as much.
I am looking for someone to make me about a 10 bottle opener. Just a standard flat handle with the oval opening on the end. I want the numbers 1955 stamped in it. Is there anyone out there that can do this for me. Get me your info if your interested in this. I am looking to make it into a handle for a drawer on a 1955 refrigerator that I'm restoring. Thanks.