I have a '94 that I've had since new and found that the factory timing at 0° was a bit laggy and found that about 6° btdc and good fuel helped the throttle response, hp, and fuel economy. I've been getting 15/16 city and 19/20 highway mileage ever since. I'm not sure, but I think the factory setting for the timing advance in the ecm was a bit slow to advance, and possibly why this helped. It would have been interesting to dyno before and after to see the difference, but I didn't think of that until after, but I can tell you it made a huge difference. I have 123K on it now and it still runs strong.
Tbh I've been thinking about messing with timing too, I just wanted to get it back up and running. I'll for sure try this because I get an avg of 18 on the highway on an excellent day
When the vehicle is at tdc the rotor can face anywhere as long as it is facing #1 on cap. You can make anywhere your #1 on cap. That's a misconception people have is it has to face #1 cylinder which is not true. ONLY CAP, but yes the rotor usually does face towards front/#1 from factory but it can also face 8 if that's where the rotor is facing on cap & the rest in the proper order. I personally like to go factory as well but it in reality it don't matter. If or when you do alot of timing I'm sure you will learn that. Great video overall & sorry for the book as a comment
Something that should be noted: Anytime the TDC mark on the balancer is at or near "0" on the timing tab, the number one piston will be at TDC, BUT that doesn't mean you're on the compression stroke. Sticking a camera to see if the piston is at TDC isn't really necessary because you can use the balancer to confirm that much. What needs to be confirmed is that you're at TDC on the compression stroke while installing a distributor. The old school way is to pull the #1 plug, remove the cap or at least the coil wire (so the engine won't start up) and while placing a finger or thumb over the spark plug hole, you turn the engine over until you feel compressed air blow past your finger. When that occurs you're on the compression stroke. Personally, I pull a valve cover and use the valve timing to check the compression stroke. For example on my 350, the #2 intake valve and the #8 exhaust valves are open at TDC on the compression stroke only. So by watching those two valves on the passenger side, I can confirm and install my distributor correctly. Failure to check for compression stroke may cause a distributor to be installed 180 degrees off, and the engine will never start. What I've just explained applies to all four stroke engines, virtually every gas powered engine with a distributor out there.
Hii , let me start of by saying ,awesome video dude. My question is , do you have to drop the distributor on 0°? I cross referencing between the book and google/youtube, book says 0 the other vary from 5° 6° 10° or even 12. I set mine at 0 found it was running sluggish but smooth in idle. So i move it up to 8° runs better but idles bad at stop then stumbles on go🤔 any suggestions?
Gotta have good plus, wires and sensors so everything is happy. I've messed up on seeing the distributor to #1 and have had to redo it plenty of times to get it right
Once the bypass plug is plugged back in i notice it jumps...do i leave as is or adjust back to 0? I think i messed up putting back to 0 after i plugged the bypass plug back in
Amigo disculpa mi ignorancia es obligatorio q el rotor Punte al cilindro 1 se puede poner grafo cero sin poner lampara..? Tengo un codigo 43 q me tiene loco cambien sensor detonacion revise cable e intentado hacer la sincronización pero mi rotor apunta el centro del tbi y en la tapa pongo el cable del 1 igual al centro del tbi mi carro prende pero como sin fuerzas.. en relanti acelerar pero cuando salgo ala calle como q no tiene fuerza.
No problem. It has to be pointed to number one and not the center. You may have to move the distributor 1 tooth over and check timming with the light. These cars don't have a lot of torque. Hope it helps a bit
Alright so I need some help. I am replacing my distributor and plug wires. I got it to TDC and the rotor pointing to #1. But when I try to start it. it starts backfiring from the intake. Any help would be amazing. Thanks!
@@YLegalRacing yes I found It.! This video and tool is exactly what I needed. now I'm confident I can do this correctly. Thank u so much ! Woo hoo no more paying mechanic's just so they can leave my engine off timing still, and my issue not 100% fixed.
Hey man I really need help is their any way we could message , I need help with my 94 k1500 . We set the pulley to the Tdc , but when it turns on it sounds cammed , then it idles fine . Then when I drive it it doesn’t accelerate. Please help
Uhhh, you need to make sure all your bases are covered. fresh cap and rotor, plugs and wires. Fuel filter too. And a compression test to see if the motor isn't hurt
Mine is back firing when i slow down to a stop and it just pops. Is that the timing being off?? And does it have to be on compression stroke or exhaust stroke when putting it at top dead center
@@YLegalRacing when I take off when I first start it it sputters but after that it’s good figured it was timing issue cause I replaced the distributor and it never did it before
Omg dude you guys making these videos do a bad job at pointing out what part or what mark youre refering to...If youre not pointing at what it is you are describing with a pointer of some sort then what is the use???🤔
@@YLegalRacing Just keep these things in mind..Makes things easier to understand...Everyone isnt a mechanic by trade...Much love tho and keep doing your thing
I have a '94 that I've had since new and found that the factory timing at 0° was a bit laggy and found that about 6° btdc and good fuel helped the throttle response, hp, and fuel economy. I've been getting 15/16 city and 19/20 highway mileage ever since. I'm not sure, but I think the factory setting for the timing advance in the ecm was a bit slow to advance, and possibly why this helped. It would have been interesting to dyno before and after to see the difference, but I didn't think of that until after, but I can tell you it made a huge difference. I have 123K on it now and it still runs strong.
Tbh I've been thinking about messing with timing too, I just wanted to get it back up and running. I'll for sure try this because I get an avg of 18 on the highway on an excellent day
When the vehicle is at tdc the rotor can face anywhere as long as it is facing #1 on cap. You can make anywhere your #1 on cap. That's a misconception people have is it has to face #1 cylinder which is not true. ONLY CAP, but yes the rotor usually does face towards front/#1 from factory but it can also face 8 if that's where the rotor is facing on cap & the rest in the proper order. I personally like to go factory as well but it in reality it don't matter. If or when you do alot of timing I'm sure you will learn that. Great video overall & sorry for the book as a comment
I get them all the time. That's how I love always done it but yes I understand your point.
Something that should be noted: Anytime the TDC mark on the balancer is at or near "0" on the timing tab, the number one piston will be at TDC, BUT that doesn't mean you're on the compression stroke. Sticking a camera to see if the piston is at TDC isn't really necessary because you can use the balancer to confirm that much. What needs to be confirmed is that you're at TDC on the compression stroke while installing a distributor. The old school way is to pull the #1 plug, remove the cap or at least the coil wire (so the engine won't start up) and while placing a finger or thumb over the spark plug hole, you turn the engine over until you feel compressed air blow past your finger. When that occurs you're on the compression stroke. Personally, I pull a valve cover and use the valve timing to check the compression stroke. For example on my 350, the #2 intake valve and the #8 exhaust valves are open at TDC on the compression stroke only. So by watching those two valves on the passenger side, I can confirm and install my distributor correctly. Failure to check for compression stroke may cause a distributor to be installed 180 degrees off, and the engine will never start. What I've just explained applies to all four stroke engines, virtually every gas powered engine with a distributor out there.
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This video gone help alot of people out there..double thumbs up
🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
I feel like I'm too stupid does the rotor move freely?
No
I just bought an OBS Chevy so I’m gonna gonna make sure my timing is good
Do it bro they run way better!
What did u gap the spark plugs too
0.060" I think is the normal spec
.035
Hii , let me start of by saying ,awesome video dude. My question is , do you have to drop the distributor on 0°? I cross referencing between the book and google/youtube, book says 0 the other vary from 5° 6° 10° or even 12. I set mine at 0 found it was running sluggish but smooth in idle. So i move it up to 8° runs better but idles bad at stop then stumbles on go🤔 any suggestions?
If it's factory go by the book. Advancing will give it more "grunt" sort of but makes off idle crap
I have a 94 Blazer and had to replace the distributor and follow this procedure by the tee, but can't get it to run good.
Gotta have good plus, wires and sensors so everything is happy. I've messed up on seeing the distributor to #1 and have had to redo it plenty of times to get it right
Once the bypass plug is plugged back in i notice it jumps...do i leave as is or adjust back to 0? I think i messed up putting back to 0 after i plugged the bypass plug back in
Remove plug, adjust to zero, then reconnect
So much help thanks man I found my timing marks.
any freaking time!!! sub for more tips and tricks
He stole that for 500! Damn good deal! Good video bro!
Preesh!!!
Amigo disculpa mi ignorancia es obligatorio q el rotor Punte al cilindro 1 se puede poner grafo cero sin poner lampara..? Tengo un codigo 43 q me tiene loco cambien sensor detonacion revise cable e intentado hacer la sincronización pero mi rotor apunta el centro del tbi y en la tapa pongo el cable del 1 igual al centro del tbi mi carro prende pero como sin fuerzas.. en relanti acelerar pero cuando salgo ala calle como q no tiene fuerza.
No problem. It has to be pointed to number one and not the center. You may have to move the distributor 1 tooth over and check timming with the light. These cars don't have a lot of torque. Hope it helps a bit
Lo intentaré está semana amigo saludos desde Venezuela
@juanyiste9032 💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽
How do you get it to point to 1? Do i have to take the distributor out and turn it that way??
Gotta turn the motor over. Usually you could bump it with a starter
Alright so I need some help. I am replacing my distributor and plug wires. I got it to TDC and the rotor pointing to #1. But when I try to start it. it starts backfiring from the intake. Any help would be amazing. Thanks!
You got the distributor 180 out.
@@YLegalRacing Thank you. I will make sure it’s on the compression stroke
Let me know how it turns out!
@@YLegalRacing Got it going perfect now. Thanks!
@@hellhornet1776 my man!!!
How do I find the wire I need to disconnect before adjusting the timing
Alldata
What Is that tool ur using from harbor freight to check piston tdc
Amazing video by the way. Best video on UA-cam for this job. Thank you
I'd have to look back at the video but I think it's a normal inspection camera
Thank you, this video alone has helped allot of people, and I didn't think it would honestly
@@YLegalRacing yes I found It.! This video and tool is exactly what I needed. now I'm confident I can do this correctly. Thank u so much ! Woo hoo no more paying mechanic's just so they can leave my engine off timing still, and my issue not 100% fixed.
Glad I could help
Hey man I really need help is their any way we could message , I need help with my 94 k1500 . We set the pulley to the Tdc , but when it turns on it sounds cammed , then it idles fine . Then when I drive it it doesn’t accelerate. Please help
Uhhh, you need to make sure all your bases are covered. fresh cap and rotor, plugs and wires. Fuel filter too. And a compression test to see if the motor isn't hurt
To get the distritor facein plug one do i have to take the fan belt off to get it to move??
No
how you know you're on the compression stroke you feel air blow out the spark plug hole. when you don't feel air you're on the manifold stroke.
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I don't think you addressed the timing advance wiring at the firewall?????
At the foot well? If so it's probably in the same circuit
Its not on the firewall in this truck its under the dash
Like this guy said
See @4:30
Yes sir!
thanks for pointing out where that wire lives.
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Is it the same for a 305 TBI?
Not sure, gotta look it up
Mine is back firing when i slow down to a stop and it just pops. Is that the timing being off?? And does it have to be on compression stroke or exhaust stroke when putting it at top dead center
Top dead center compression, sounds like you have bigger issues
How to find if engine doesnt have any timing marks?
Too dead center i meant
Gotta go old school and use your ear
i knew what you meant
@@YLegalRacing iThink iHad found tdc but when i crunk the truck the carb caught on fire said iWas 180 out. So how do iAdjust?
Take the valve covers off and check that way
I can’t find the wire on my 1990 c3500
look it up on all data to be sure
Under fuel pump fuse/relay cover on firewall, about 6” away from distributor
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Why the fwok did he shave the rotor? Also I thought u point the rotor to #1 wire on the distributor cap
#1 cylinder is where you point. Bruh you have no idea the amount of dumb stuff I've seen out here
Even in the manuals tho and I was taught to point the rotor at the # 1 on distributor cap
🤷🏽♂️ my trucks runs with the way I did it
Great vid! Got my sub man!
💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽 appreciate you!
@@YLegalRacing No problem! Id appreciate you checking me out and if you like what you see hit that sub button too!
Where you located?
Central TX
Makes no difference which way the rotor is pointed as long as the proper cylinder wire is installed to match with the rotor
Good job, you can do that on yours as much as you want
This guy is right the cap and rotor don't care where #1 is they just send the mad lighting down the wire.
Do what makes you happy
My truck runs and drives but it needs fine turning
But can’t find the wire it’s on my 94 and 95 but can’t find it on my 1990
may not have it
@@YLegalRacing alright thanks for the reply
Early tbi might be a bit different. If it drives fine and doesn't throw a light I think your good bro
@@YLegalRacing when I take off when I first start it it sputters but after that it’s good figured it was timing issue cause I replaced the distributor and it never did it before
Why is this dude lying about working on his own truck? Lol
Idk, said he did some stuff but obviously not
Omg dude you guys making these videos do a bad job at pointing out what part or what mark youre refering to...If youre not pointing at what it is you are describing with a pointer of some sort then what is the use???🤔
Thousands of others have no issue
@@YLegalRacing Just keep these things in mind..Makes things easier to understand...Everyone isnt a mechanic by trade...Much love tho and keep doing your thing
Will do bro, sometimes I do have to take a step back and reiterate