This is great to show what's facing you on this job. I'm not sure I'd tackle this if I were a stone-cold newbie, but it's definitely DIY if you are familiar with the scary process of pulling off panels when there are a dozen clips and you don't know where they all are(!). That said, even professional body shops and Porsche techs often destroy a clip or two. Its inevitable. Just be patient and most will survive and you'll be looking at a job well done. It was hard for Self Reliant to show the "replacement" part of this because you can't get a camera anywhere near there. As to removal, I luckily was at Ace Hardware yesterday and picked up some holiday special "precision screwdriver" set for like two bucks that had some long, small flat blade drivers that I could stick under the clip, tap with a small hammer, and slide or pop off the clips. If the strut seems like it doesn't want to come out, make sure you removed ALL the "insulation", or whatever that stuff is, from the cavity. Mine did not all come out as a single unit. You can put the new one in with your fingers - it pops right on. You might need to adjust whatever is propping up the hatch to make sure you're at the limit of the hatch opening, as the design is based on that. This is one of those weird but easy projects about which someone took the time to make this video. Kudos.
This is an excellent video. This was my second time replacing these (obviously done before by previous owner) in a 2005 Porsche Cayenne Turbo. For safety, I propped it open with a 6' ladder, didn't have to worry about accidentally knocking the stick out and having this heavy lift gate fall on my head. Took about an hour. $93.40 for 2 gas struts on Amazon. Ironically, still have to push it up to get it to open all the way, even with brand new struts. Just got done having the independent Porsche mechanics replace the passenger side air bag for $950. Numerous electrical problems over the years. Coolant lines failing, replaced by dealer and then partially reimbursed by Porsche after lengthy ~2 year submittal. 6 months after coolant lines replaced by dealer, $35 coolant hose failed - Porsche dealer could have done it at the same time they replaced the coolant lines, but instead I was stuck with another $1000 in labor. Burns about a quart of oil every 500 miles, apparently "normal" for this model turbo. Try changing your spark plugs, even more fun than the rear gas struts!. I really doubt how good the engineering is on these vehicles, needless to say, this will be the last Porsche that I own. Love my wife's Maserati Levante, way more fun to drive than the Cayenne.
Big thumbs up to you! I bought my parts and waited until I needed to replace the headliner. I called for mobile headliner service and they removed the center portion, so I only had to work with the pillars...pretty easy with your video...you rock!
Excellent video, thank you for posting it. This job is a PITA, but it's so much easier after seeing how it's done. For the comments that mention it being a two-person job. I did I myself, but the trick was to find a stick that's the right length (I used a rake) to get your hatch up firmly to the top of its travel. Then, when fitting the second end of the strut, use one hand to push up on your tailgate for alignment and your other hand on a lever to force the cup over the post. I used a brake tool for this since it's smooth, wide and flat. It's actually one of the most versatile tools I own.
Excellent video! It made doing this task painless! I would like to suggest two additional tips in addition to the suggestion made to have a very long, thin-blade screwdriver. The first would be to pry up the half-moon clips on the new struts BEFORE sliding them into the cavity. The second would be to put a small bit of grease or Vaseline on the trim clips before pushing them back on. This'll make it easier to remove the next time. Thanks for taking the time to make this video!
The clips don't need to be pulled out on the new ones. You just get them in place and give them a shove and they pop in. Will need to use the big screwdriver for a little leverage on the joints nearest the hinges.The clips just expand with the pressure and then just lock on.
Great video, your instructions worked well for me. Just one note - when putting the new struts on, found that part is easier to do if the far end joint of the new strut is clipped in first and only then the near end joint made. Also needed a helper at that stage, to wiggle the hatch up and down a bit, so that the alignment is done just right for the strut end to mate with the ball joint. Thank you very much, you're da man!!
Totally agree with your tip. Lock the far end of the strut in place first, then on the one closest to the gate hinge you can adjust the gate up or down just a little bit to get the other joint to line up just right. Then I used the big flat head screwdriver through the little gap in the hinge area to push the joint sideways onto the ball. Pops right into place.
Thank you for the great video, it was very helpful. It took me approx. 1.5 hours to replace both struts (without your information, a try and error approach would probably require a few hours more...).
Thanks great vid. Just wanted to add for the 2008-10 model the left size has a different strut with bigger ball joints. Lucky replacing one was enough to hold up the hatch.
What an incredible pain in the butt this is. I just did my turbo S for the first time. I've owed it 3 years. I can't believe it's as difficult and irritating as it is. Tiny little space. Tons of delicate clips to deal with. Damn. I'm glad that's done.
good info instructs my man... it seems that the trunks lid lifts has to be change like the fluids under the hood..jeeeeest !! I dont know what is worst.. the trunk or the driveshaft center mount.. well anyway... Keep on Porsching !!
As a Cayenne 555 Turbo Techart Magnum owner i wonder if there are stronger ones on the market. The rear hatch is hevier becouse of adicional boddy kit.
Should you always or do you need to also replace the window struts even though it is just the door hatch struts that are not working properly on my car. I don't want to get into it and find out I need to remove and also replace the window ones once I am in the repair. Thanks for posting this.
I maybe could do this in 40 minutes, if I was doing it on a regular basis. But for the average experienced amateur mechanic, like myself, it's a total pain and there are 3 pieces of trim to be removed which include 2 Phillips screws, 6 T-25 torx, 3 electrical clips, dozens of upholstery spring clips, 2 foam seals, and then the 4 clips on the gas struts, all times 2 - removal and replacement. I recently replaced the starter motor on a 1985 Ford F150 at night, on a gravel road in less than 10 minutes, that was easy. I've worked on lots of cars, this replacement is a pain, and should be the poster child of poor design and engineering by Porsche.
This is great to show what's facing you on this job. I'm not sure I'd tackle this if I were a stone-cold newbie, but it's definitely DIY if you are familiar with the scary process of pulling off panels when there are a dozen clips and you don't know where they all are(!).
That said, even professional body shops and Porsche techs often destroy a clip or two. Its inevitable. Just be patient and most will survive and you'll be looking at a job well done.
It was hard for Self Reliant to show the "replacement" part of this because you can't get a camera anywhere near there.
As to removal, I luckily was at Ace Hardware yesterday and picked up some holiday special "precision screwdriver" set for like two bucks that had some long, small flat blade drivers that I could stick under the clip, tap with a small hammer, and slide or pop off the clips.
If the strut seems like it doesn't want to come out, make sure you removed ALL the "insulation", or whatever that stuff is, from the cavity. Mine did not all come out as a single unit.
You can put the new one in with your fingers - it pops right on. You might need to adjust whatever is propping up the hatch to make sure you're at the limit of the hatch opening, as the design is based on that.
This is one of those weird but easy projects about which someone took the time to make this video. Kudos.
This is an excellent video. This was my second time replacing these (obviously done before by previous owner) in a 2005 Porsche Cayenne Turbo. For safety, I propped it open with a 6' ladder, didn't have to worry about accidentally knocking the stick out and having this heavy lift gate fall on my head. Took about an hour. $93.40 for 2 gas struts on Amazon. Ironically, still have to push it up to get it to open all the way, even with brand new struts.
Just got done having the independent Porsche mechanics replace the passenger side air bag for $950. Numerous electrical problems over the years. Coolant lines failing, replaced by dealer and then partially reimbursed by Porsche after lengthy ~2 year submittal. 6 months after coolant lines replaced by dealer, $35 coolant hose failed - Porsche dealer could have done it at the same time they replaced the coolant lines, but instead I was stuck with another $1000 in labor. Burns about a quart of oil every 500 miles, apparently "normal" for this model turbo. Try changing your spark plugs, even more fun than the rear gas struts!. I really doubt how good the engineering is on these vehicles, needless to say, this will be the last Porsche that I own. Love my wife's Maserati Levante, way more fun to drive than the Cayenne.
Big thumbs up to you! I bought my parts and waited until I needed to replace the headliner. I called for mobile headliner service and they removed the center portion, so I only had to work with the pillars...pretty easy with your video...you rock!
Excellent video, thank you for posting it. This job is a PITA, but it's so much easier after seeing how it's done. For the comments that mention it being a two-person job. I did I myself, but the trick was to find a stick that's the right length (I used a rake) to get your hatch up firmly to the top of its travel. Then, when fitting the second end of the strut, use one hand to push up on your tailgate for alignment and your other hand on a lever to force the cup over the post. I used a brake tool for this since it's smooth, wide and flat. It's actually one of the most versatile tools I own.
Thanks to your video just got done replacing ours! Appreciate all the tips in the video and the comments. I wish all how to videos were this helpful!
Excellent video! It made doing this task painless! I would like to suggest two additional tips in addition to the suggestion made to have a very long, thin-blade screwdriver. The first would be to pry up the half-moon clips on the new struts BEFORE sliding them into the cavity. The second would be to put a small bit of grease or Vaseline on the trim clips before pushing them back on. This'll make it easier to remove the next time. Thanks for taking the time to make this video!
The clips don't need to be pulled out on the new ones. You just get them in place and give them a shove and they pop in. Will need to use the big screwdriver for a little leverage on the joints nearest the hinges.The clips just expand with the pressure and then just lock on.
Thank you so much. This is the best step by step instructions with video footage i have seen. Great job
Great video, your instructions worked well for me. Just one note - when putting the new struts on, found that part is easier to do if the far end joint of the new strut is clipped in first and only then the near end joint made. Also needed a helper at that stage, to wiggle the hatch up and down a bit, so that the alignment is done just right for the strut end to mate with the ball joint. Thank you very much, you're da man!!
Thanks for the feedback and for watching. Your suggestion definitely makes sense. I will keep that in mind the next time they need replacing.
Totally agree with your tip. Lock the far end of the strut in place first, then on the one closest to the gate hinge you can adjust the gate up or down just a little bit to get the other joint to line up just right. Then I used the big flat head screwdriver through the little gap in the hinge area to push the joint sideways onto the ball. Pops right into place.
Great video. I could replace the struts of my car following these indications -saved myself a few hundred bucks in the process. Thank you.
Thank you for the great video, it was very helpful. It took me approx. 1.5 hours to replace both struts (without your information, a try and error approach would probably require a few hours more...).
Love the Blue paint with tanned leather combo.
Was putting this off for weeks, your vid gave me the confidence to tackle it, job done cheers
I have an 04 and this helped alot, thank you for taking the time to make this video !
Thanks great vid. Just wanted to add for the 2008-10 model the left size has a different strut with bigger ball joints. Lucky replacing one was enough to hold up the hatch.
Great video! Thank you, mine have just gone out for the first time, hopefully I don't end up replacing them 3 times like you had to.
Thanks for the video. Replaced my hatch struts today on my 06 turbo S. Very informative!
Looks like my future vacation project.
What an incredible pain in the butt this is. I just did my turbo S for the first time. I've owed it 3 years. I can't believe it's as difficult and irritating as it is. Tiny little space. Tons of delicate clips to deal with. Damn. I'm glad that's done.
scott h Well that job is waiting for me this sumer.
fml ill keep using a broom handle
Thx a lot! Your tutorial was very, very good and very helpfull 🎉👏🤝
Thanks dear i juste finished to replace for my cayenne 2005 used your video
Thanks for the fantastic instructions! Question guys... why is there an airbag way back there? ... for my dog 🐕??
Great Job, thanks for posting!!!
good info instructs my man... it seems that the trunks lid lifts has to be change like the fluids under the hood..jeeeeest !! I dont know what is worst.. the trunk or the driveshaft center mount..
well anyway... Keep on Porsching !!
Thanks a lot for this video , you help me to find the part # on the web . Thanks again from Argentina (muchas gracias)
Nice video. Easy peasy.
As a Cayenne 555 Turbo Techart Magnum owner i wonder if there are stronger ones on the market. The rear hatch is hevier becouse of adicional boddy kit.
Thanks - very good video, helped me a lot. Keep up the good work
Thanks for the video !! Just did mine :)
Yes, the driveshaft/cardan shaft is another common problem as well as the engine coolant pipes cracking.
Should you always or do you need to also replace the window struts even though it is just the door hatch struts that are not working properly on my car. I don't want to get into it and find out I need to remove and also replace the window ones once I am in the repair. Thanks for posting this.
I replace the window struts along with every other door hatch strut replacement interval.
Thank you for taking the time to respond! Really appreciated!
Hi, are both of the rear hatch struts the same? As in, is there and left and right version or are they the same for the left and right?
thanks for the help, a lot less challenging then the $600 the dealer wanted to charge me.
très bien expliqué merci
Cheers mate!
Where can I purchase this part online? Any web address recommendations?
Is it available on amazon?
I use www.suncoastparts.com
Self Reliant thanks for the fast response!
круто
anyone that complains about this being a pain has not worked on many cars i just did the job start to finish in 20min
I maybe could do this in 40 minutes, if I was doing it on a regular basis. But for the average experienced amateur mechanic, like myself, it's a total pain and there are 3 pieces of trim to be removed which include 2 Phillips screws, 6 T-25 torx, 3 electrical clips, dozens of upholstery spring clips, 2 foam seals, and then the 4 clips on the gas struts, all times 2 - removal and replacement. I recently replaced the starter motor on a 1985 Ford F150 at night, on a gravel road in less than 10 minutes, that was easy. I've worked on lots of cars, this replacement is a pain, and should be the poster child of poor design and engineering by Porsche.
This really should be a safety recall, I guess it will take the hatch coming down on your dog or worse, child.
Lol no thanks it’s not worth it for me I guess I’m just gonna leave it broke :)
painful to watch. Just get to it already
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