I have the Blue machine with the zig zag stitch option. It is my go to machine for all my projects. It goes through all the heavy stuff I sew. I'm going to look at the monster wheel option now. Thanks for sharing this.
From what I know the Sailrite machines are made in the Yamata factory in China and sold under several brands, sailrite uses some upgraded parts and tunes their machines extremely well. I got a good deal on one with the zig zag for $140 on craigslist needed a lot of work to sew right but worked really well after adjusting everything.
Danthefordfixer when you mention “Several brands,” would any of those brands be Consew and Rex? I read great praise for the Sailrite in forums and less than great for the Consew. Some even calling it a consumer grade home machine. The reviews are even worse for the Rex machines. And they all look basically the same. Even many parts are interchangeable. The only difference outright are the prices which coincidentally reflect the reviews in the forums.
I’ve always wondered about these Sailrite Sewing machines. So glad I stumbled on your videos. I’m beginning to ask myself that question: why do I have so many machines? I relate to much of your excitement.
That is a great complement of your skills I have always liked your way of sewing your not a show off your straight up about things and your quality of work is great not trying to give you a fat head you are good at what you do
Hi! Wonderful helpful Video uploads! Your Thompson Walking Foot is a heirloom collector's item all-right. So many knock-offs followed it, but Sailrite is the King Grandaddy of this genre of mini-portable Walkng Foot machines today. I c they went "all out" with your trial sample model LS-1 straight stitch gem! You got their famed "Monster Wheel"! The extra weight of that wheel helps the needle "punch thru" heavy fabric and maintain the punch all stitch nyte long. The machine belt, you mention is not a timing belt, but actually the motor belt (that attaches to the big Monster Wheel as you say). Was sad to hear, from you, that Sailrite is still building stuff in China. But Sailrite's custom patented internal parts (that they add inside) are of higher quality (and thicker metal) than the "knock-off" competition Walking Foot machines out there. I own a "knock-off" Alphasew pzw200 and the internal metal parts are so maleable until I can sometimes bend them with my bare hands! I'm currently using bailing wire 2 hold crap 2gether inside that machine. As a Costumer, a portable Sailrite Walking Foot and the portable Zig Zag Singer (u had in your earlier video) is the perfect "Sewing Arsenal" to have "on-set" of an Action/Adventure Superhero movie! Your Backpack Designs are excellent!
Great vid. Liked and subscribed. I'm drooling over the new Fabricator machine they have introduced. Looking forward to more from this machine. Very cool of Sailrite to let you demo.
Thanks so much! I'm very interested in the Fabricator myself. The one thing I'd like to see (Sailrite, are you listening?) is for the servo motor to provide a needle-down-when-stopping option (so whenever you stop, it puts the needle all the way down, if I didn't say that clearly). This speed things up a lot since you don't have to reach over and rotate the hand wheel to bury the needle every time you stop. On a big project, that can add up! But yes, Sailrite IS a very cool company, with a lot of great products (not just sewing machines). Thanks for watching, commenting and subscribing!!!
thank you! this is just what I need! I do need a walking for machine and this one seems to be very affordable. I also like the set up. its not huge requiring a huge table. I'll be watching for more videos on this machine! Thanks for bringing it to my attention!
I bought the LZ version a couple of years ago and I had to return it due to a design issue with the pulley system. Matt said they corrected it on a video I posted a review of the machine, but they never offered to replace it with the updated version. I hope they corrected it in the one they sent you for free.
Hey Kevin, thanks for watching and commenting! I watched your video (and I've watched and enjoyed several other videos of yours!). I haven't experienced any similar problems so far, so hopefully whatever the issue was has been corrected. Thanks again for your input!
SUBSCRIBED. What a cool cat you have! I have been considering a Sailrite machine myself for some time. I like to mess with Cordura. Sailrite has some great tutorial videos and kits, plus their customer service has always been great when I was ordering fabrics, etc. That being said, I just have a Singer 201-2.
Thanks! I'm fortunate to be enslaved by two adorable cats. They aren't much help at sewing or opening boxes, though. I'm really happy with the Sailrite Ultrafeed, but I'm also jealous of your 201, I'm keeping my eyes out for the right one of those to add to my collection! Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Hi Jason. I just received my LS-1 Basic. The short and dirty is that I upholster AND make bags. Upholster for $$, bags for fun. Since the former is generally more important than the latter, I needed a: Powerful (Check) Walking foot (Check) Portable. For a whole host of reasons I now question (Check, though heavy!) Interchangeable or interUSABLE foot for welt/piping. As this is EVERYTHING with upholstery. (Negative Check) If I even attempt to use a cotton cord its a smashed mess even with the presser foot tension barely present. Also...speaking of tension, my LS-1 came set for sewing through several pieces of Naugahyde and so, the tension Olympics begin. I was so frustrated by the GUESS work that goes into setting the tension on this machine. If re-packaging weren't such a pain, I'd have had it sent back the same afternoon. Also, all the reviews I read had the strangest complaints. Among which were, initial starting power. I find this great on this machine. Doesn't every machine HUM when its challenged? However, I don't need a slow application like I might for detailed leather work which I'm not really willing to try on bags because the cording issue seems unresolvable. Also rarely mentioned is the weight. I guess I didn't exactly frame out what dragging 40 lbs around for a female could mean. Too heavy to move indeed.
Hi Peggy, Sorry you aren't enjoying your machine. I don't do upholstery (much, anyway), so I can't speak to the welting issue. I think the LSZ-1 has a foot with an integrated welting channel in it, but NOT the LS-1. I'm pretty sure a welting foot is available from Sailrite, but I haven't checked, you might check their site. I have NO idea what you mean about "guesswork" setting the tension. Out of the 12 machines I own and the dozens I currently work with or have, it seems to me the tension adjustment on the Sailrite I have works the same as any other. I tend to use similarly heavy fabrics and similar threads, but I certainly have had to make tension adjustments and have had zero issues with this. If you think your unit is defective, I urge you to contact Sailrite, their customer service seems to be quite good. Regarding the weight, my Sailrite (machine only) actually weighs LESS than my Singer 237 (typical 1960s vintage domestic machine). If you need a walking foot machine, and you need for it to be portable, this is as good as it gets. The Basic package doesn't come with the case, but with the "wood" base, which itself is quite heavy. I imagine the case would at least make it easier to transport. I hope that helps, good luck and thanks for watching!
I happened to walk over to my machine after I wrote the previous comment, and I was incorrect - the LS-1 DOES have a channel for welting in its foot. However, Sailrite does have an additional foot for "larger" cord on their site, you might want to give that a look!
Jason, I make quilted weekend bags from Colton quilting fabric that has been fused to a stiff foam stabilizer. The bags are lined so 2 layers of cotton an 2 layers of fused foam. stabilizer. I've been using a jeans needle with my walking foot with no problems. Am considering the LS-1 to do these projects in addition of leather trim on them. Any concerns?
Hi Lou, While I don't have experience with the specific materials you are using, I can tell you that the Sailrite Ultrafeed has only surprised me by handling MORE than I think it will. The foot lift height is not very high, so 3/8" might be tough to squeeze under the foot, but if you can get it under the foot, it'll probably sew it (and more importantly FEED it well). I have read online that the foot lift can be adjusted higher, but I haven't tried it myself. The only other possible issue is the feet and feed dogs can mark the leather as you sew. I believe Sailrite offers smooth feet and feed dogs for sewing leather, and Tandy is now selling a version of the Ultrafeed machine specifically for leather, so those parts might be available from them, too. I hope that helps, let me know if you have other questions, and thanks for watching!
Great video! Had a Thompson was kind of klunky . Bought a Consew 90% identical to the ultrafeed . Sailrite is awesome they have everything in their literature.
I agree that the Thompson, and to some extent the Sailrite, are "clunky" (especially compared to something like my Pfaff 260). However, they just feed everything! Thanks for your comment, and thanks for watching!
Wish I had one , but need the zig zag stitch option , which puts it up in the $1300.00 Can range . Don't have enough projects to warrant the cost at the moment . Hoping to get by with a older singer U20 with out a walking foot. Maybe in the future . Looking forward to see what you can do with it.
You can get the LSZ-1 (zig-zag) for $750, which is still a lot of money, but the machine seems worth it if you can afford it. All of my sewing to date has been with older, used machines, and you can certainly do a lot with an older, non-walking-foot machine. I think these machines are a great option for someone who wants brand new, doesn't want to hunt the used market looking for the "right" machine, wants something with a warranty, etc. What kind of projects are you doing? Thanks for watching and commenting!
Paul Lachance I know this thread ( bah dump dump) is 2 years old, but in the industry, we are using Juki’s that operate like a home machine but roar along close to 2K sts/min. They do not have an external motor, so they are quiet. My industrials vibrated my 3 story house built on solid granite up in the Catskill Mtn area of New York. Many schools use them for textile labs also. Lol, in fact, I am still thinking I may need one. I don’t do wedding gowns anymore with seams that were 11 yards long, I really could have used it back in those days. But I got the 600 lb. vibrator and lived with it. We did have to turn up the telly in my sewing room, me and my five kids, but this was our lives. Hope this helpedand you still get this reply.
Love your videos, I am into leather working and leather sewing machines are a small fortune. I am only a hobbyist and mostly sew leathers that are only 5-6 oz with a soft temper. How do you think this would sew leather? The price of this machine is great. A good amount of leather crafters use old Singer 201s but parts can be a pain to get. Thanks for any info
Hi, and thanks! If a 201 can sew it, I'd say this thing definitely can. Sailrite now sells feet for this machine that have the teeth ground down a bit to prevent marking leather. I don't have a huge amount of experience with anything sturdier than auto upholstery-type leather, but I'd say if you're making stuff with softer leathers (not belts or boot soles), this machine should be capable of it. I don't know if there is a way to slow it down, which I think leather workers tend to do with their machines. It's not a terribly fast machine, and you could step up to the Monster Wheel, which has a handle to make hand cranking easier. I'm preparing to do a full review of the machine soon (I just moved from CO to FL, and still don't quite have the sewing room set up), and I'll try to include some leather samples to see how it does. What kinds of things do you make? Thanks for you question, and thanks for watching!
I appreciate the video again. I took my Ultrafeed into a shop this morning to have some work done on it and talked briefly with the shop manager who asked what I planned to do with it. I replied I wanted to make fanny packs, duffel bags, backpacks and the like. He responded that it's a great machine for fanny packs and other small projects, but it is not large enough to do large backpacks and such. There is not enough space under the arm to fit a lot of material. I was sorry to hear that but wonder if I can find a way to make it work.... Your thoughts?
I used a flathead to help raise the pressure foot to accomodate thick folds of canvas for a patio umbrella I designed. Once you squash that material in and lower the pressure foot, it will sew and eat that fabric.
My reply would have been “Why would I need a lot of room under the arm? Normally you have the fabric to the left of the needle, not balled up and squished under the arm to the right of the needle.”
I have the LS-1 for almost 2 years now and i love it. I mainly use it for leather pillow covers and handbags. The only issue i cannot resolve is when i am topstitching. The feeding teeth underneath my work scratches my leather (specially if the leather is a little thicker). I don't really have a problem on the top as i bought a leather foot that is not as sharp as the feeding dog. I tried to lower the tension but it is still making marks. Any tips?
i'm grasping at straws, as I don't do a lot of leather sewing, but I wonder if something like plastic-dip (available at home improvement stores) could be used to coat the feed dog teeth to minimize scratching?
I am not sure i would put that stuff on the feed dog. I was planning to reduce the pressure of the foot to maximum and if it is not enough, adding an interfacing underneat my project that i can tear away after.
Sounds like you know more about it than I do. I'll have to try some leather on this machine when I get a chance. I bet someone could 3d print either a plastic feed dog for this machine, or some covers for the existing dogs if there were enough demand to bother with it, I wonder if either would be helpful. I know some dedicated leather sewing machines have roller feet, but I don't know if there is anything special about the feed dogs. Let me know if you find something that works for you!
I just do crafts on my machine but i am really picky on the finishes so i hate when i see marks on my project. Hopefully Sailrite will make a feed dog for leather just like they did for the foot. I also tought about buying another feed dog and gind it a bit just to remove the top part of the teeth. Let's stay in touch and find a solution together for that issue. Happy New Year!!!
Hi! Sailrite's manual will have the best recommendations for oiling, but I think I might have oiled this one twice in the last 5 years. I have a LOT of other sewing machines, though. It definitely isn't a machine that needs oiling every single time you use it, if that helps. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Thanks! I'm ashamed to admit this, especially to you - my light source is a powerful bulb located 93 million miles away. Just picked a better time of day and not in the basement .... Oh, and it's bounced off of my drywall ;)
I would love to have a machine that can sew suede, veg tanned leather and chrome tanned leather. The company (Sailrite) is a little light on the information sewing leather. Canvas, sun cloth and webbing seems to be their target market. I just want to sew leather. What do you think? Have you tried leather yet?
Hi Bruce, "Sewing leather" is a pretty broad topic, but if you're talking the kinds of leathers you might use to make a bag, wallet, etc., the Sailrite can handle that no problem at all. I think they now sell smooth feet for the machines so the feet won't mark the leather. Tandy Leather now sells a version of the Sailrite Ultrafeed that Sailrite makes for them, you might want to take a look at it. Any sewing machine is capable of sewing (thin) leather. What makes the Sailrite better than typical domestic machines is the walking foot, which provides superior feeding, especially over thick transitions at seams, etc. If you want to make horse tack, this probably isn't the right machine. I hope that helps, thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades Tandy's machine is $400 more than the Sailrite. And it is the same exact machine without the backing of Sailrite. Sewing 2mm chrome tanned. Sewing 1.5mm suede. I am sure this machine will work. I saw the smoother foot and dogs in the videos. I can make a magnetic guide. So, the case is better than anyone elses also. Industrial strength materials and locks. Thanks again.
This machine is about as fast as my fastest domestic machine (Pfaff 260). My Singer 20-33 industrial is a LOT faster, but truthfully, I rarely use its full speed. I recently had a chance to do some sewing in a canvas shop using a Pfaff 1245 industrial with a servo motor (a couple-thousand dollar machine), and the shop had all of their machines slowed down to a speed roughly comparable with this machine. Unless you're doing production, with long straight seams, I don't think speed is that important.
Hi! The stock motor (not the new WorkerB) is a 1.5 amp motor. I don't know anything useful about how electricity works, but from a quick Google, it appears that how many watts is a function of how many amps x how many volts, with maybe some other factors. I would suggest if it is something you really need to know, reach out to Sairite, and they will probably be able to help determine if the power draw will work in your situation. I hope that helps!
Esta máquina es de Sailrite. Es una máquina muy resistente hecha de metal, pero no de hierro fundido, como máquinas muy antiguas. Tengo once máquinas, incluidas muchas antiguas máquinas de hierro fundido, pero esta es la que más uso. Su sitio web es www.sailrite.com. Puede ir a su sitio web, copiar texto y pegarlo en Google translate, así es como me estoy comunicando con usted ahora. ¡Buena suerte!
I went to sailrite website to view this machine. its a 1.5 amp motor. I guess the only special thing is the even feed. I have a 1.5 amp machine I can put a walking foot on. is that what is special or makes it expensive? having the walking foot built in? cause although the motor is more powerful than a lot of home machines its not all that powerful. sounds loud too.
It is definitely louder than my other domestic machines, but not obnoxiously loud. The walking foot is definitely more robust than the walking foot you can attach separately (my wife uses one on her machine occasionally, no comparison). Most machines are powerful enough, but have a hard time feeding heavier fabrics, that's where the walking foot shines. You'll see when you get yours!
I need a touch of direction: I'm trying cordura 1000D with the LSZ-1. And, when I look at the stitches, they have protruding knots. I tried the upper thread tension adjustment, but the knots still protrude. Please advise.
If the knots are protruding on the TOP side of the fabric, the top tension is too high and needs to be reduced. If you can't reduce it enough by backing off the upper tension knob, you may have to add tension to the bobbin case. There is a small slotted screw on the flat spring on the bobbin case. If you find you need to tighten the bobbin tension, make small adjustments (a half-turn at a time). Usually adjusting the top tension should do it unless you're making major changes in fabric/thread. Let me know if that helps!
Not necessarily. The rule of thumb is: if the bottom thread is coming up through the top, your TOP tension is too high. If the top thread is being pulled through the bottom, your TOP tension is too low. Ideally, the bobbin tension is set to a median tension so that all adjustments are made on the top tension. If you think about it, the bobbin thread is pulling against the top thread to form the knot. If the top tension is too high, the bobbin thread is unable to pull it into the middle of the fabric, so the knot stays on top. If the top tension is too low, the bobbin thread pulls too much, so the knot ends up sticking out underneath. It's hard to put it into words simply, but it's less complicated than it sounds.
thejasonofalltrades Hmmm... I'm wondering if I have ever seen a proper (non commercial product) stitch before. LOL So, the knot should be in the fabric, between the top & bottom?
Out of curiosity have you sewed leather with it. I'm trying to see leather and I am getting weird stitches. Some the tension with be perfect some won't be it's really weird
I haven't tried sewing leather yet, but I'm working on a video about sewing leather. What thickness leather are you working with? What size thread, and do you have a leather needle?
thejasonofalltrades thanks for the reply. Yes I am using the leather needle and have the upgraded monster wheel. I am playing around with 2 layers of 2-3oz veg tan leather i would say about an eighth of an inch it punches through fine I just can't figure out why the tension goes wonky on some stitches
My LS-1's manual recommends size 92 as the largest thread. I think veg tan might be too much for this machine (although perhaps it can be forced to do it somehow). Upholstery weight leathers should be fine. What sort of end product are you making?
I haven't made jeans - yet - but my experience with this machine's predecessor suggests that this one won't have any problem feeding thick seams with multiple layers of heavier materials. I think it's definitely worth a look if you're in the market for a new machine. I have some denim, I'll have to mock up some seams and see how it does! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Short answer - it depends. Long answer - I'm planning a video to cover this in detail, but here goes: if by "leather work" you mean car upholstery, jacket-weight leather (for bags or whatever) and that kind of thing, then yes. If by "leather work" you mean vegetable tanned leather for gun holsters, knife sheaths and horse saddles, then probably not. Machines for working thick leather are big, powerful and SLOW. I don't do leather working, but from what I understand, you want it slow because if you punch a hole in the wrong place, it will remain visible (unlike many fabrics). The Ultrafeed is quite powerful for a portable, and would probably feed and punch a needle through some pretty thick leather, but I don't think it's a GOOD machine for thick leather. A viewer commented on another video that she was having issues with feed dogs from her Ultrafeed marking the leather she was sewing. From what I understand, Sailrite was able to provide a set of ground-down feed dogs that should reduce the marking. Might be something to consider if you decide the Ultrafeed might work for your needs. To sum up - ANY sewing machine can sew SOME leather, but if you're making something out of thick leather, you probably need a machine designed for that purpose. Thanks for your question, I hope that helps!
Hi . I watched your first vid about the Thomp Walking Mach. I have a new old one I bought in 1986. It is a gorilla. I keep it cleaned and maintenenced every year, even if I don’t use it. So, I got it out today, and need to repair a horse strapping on a horse blanket. I plugged it in and the machine started stitchin like a lunatic. OY! I pulled the plug and realized the foot pedal was not attached. I forgot what plugs in where, and not a diagram in the manual, nor one look at your review showing how to connect the thing. Lol I kept straining my head to see if I could see around the side of your demo, but the cords were wound up in the opening under the hand wheel. Can you show me how to connect the plugs and foot? There is a short power cord and a foot pedal with a receptacle box inline with openings for two male plugs it seems. I don’t want to lock up the mechanics or timing. But since it turned on like a possesed object... I have my fingers crossed. I find sometimes the simplest things form big stumbling blocks in my sewing life. Oh, my machine came without a base, and I am swopping sewing straps on for a steady base box he can make for me. So, thank you and the Sailrite looks nice represents the continuing of a small industrial machine. Great review, your focusing and demos get better and better! I think you can send me a reply on you tube or something, but if you need my email, just get in touch with me somehow, here I guess. lol. thank you!!!
For the benefit of anyone else with this problem, the plug receptacle is marked "light" in one receptacle and "motor" in the other, but it is pretty hard to see.
From Sailrite ... in 2016, when this video was published. Sadly, the price has increased substantially since then, although I still love this machine and think it is worth the cost if it meets your needs. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I hope for an unbiased opinion free of personal preference and price influence. I ask only because I enjoy your videos and because you do the kind of sewing I want to do and come here for ideas and tips. Being an upholster’s son I lean towards Consew machines but again, I ask without bias. What are the differences between the Sailrite LS-1, Consew CP-206R, and the cheaper Rex 607 (besides branding and price)? All three are made in China and look similar. And I am under the impression that even some, if not all, the parts are interchangeable. Which would you recommend?
Hi Nathan, thanks for your question. First thing, while Sailrite provided this machine to me, long before I ever approached them I have had the opinion that those in the market for a portable walking-foot sewing machine should purchase from Sailrite, not one of the knock-offs. My personal opinion is that the people who paid to develop the machine, and offer excellent support, customer service and parts/accessories, should be the ones to receive your money, rather than the people who "stole" the design. My understanding is that Sailrite contracted manufacturers in China to manufacture their design, and some of them started re-branding them and selling them behind Sailrite's back. I have heard, but have no evidence to support, that often these kinds of items (of all kinds) are "second-quality" items that otherwise wouldn't be sold by the brand name. I don't know if this is the case with the Consew and Rex machines, but there is a reason why they are cheaper, and it's probably not because the companies are charging less to be nice. A quick Google search shows the Consew available at around $500. The basic Sailrite LS-1 is $650. The Sailrite comes with a nice base, although it does not include the (inexpensive) plastic case that the Consew comes with. The Sailrite includes a DVD that is full of great information, and a VERY comprehensive user manual that includes schematics, parts lists, and maintenance instructions. All of this is available online, for free, from Sailrite, and one could certainly buy another brand and then use Sailrite's information to maintain that machine. I wouldn't feel right doing that, but that's only my opinion. I've never seen or used a Consew or Rex machine. The Rex is so inexpensive that I would be highly suspicious of it, and I would only consider it if you just can't afford anything else. Again, just my opinion. At the moment, there is a used Thompson PW-500 (the predecessor and virtual twin of the Sailrite LS-1, I have several videos featuring mine) on my local Craigslist for $400. I think that's a bit high (I think I paid a little under $300 for mine), but I think even at $400 that would be a better buy than a new knock-off machine. Honestly, time will tell but I think my Thompson feels a little more solid than even my Sailrite. I think I've said quite a lot without answering your question - without firsthand knowledge, I don't know what the actual differences between these machines are, but here's what I think: Sailrite has their machines manufactured in China. Some of the manufacturers they contracted used the opportunity to sell machines or parts "out the back door," and the resulting machines cost somewhat less than the Sailrite machines. I would question the quality of those machines, but again, I have no firsthand knowledge. Sailrite's machines are inspected, tuned and tested by their staff here in the USA before shipping, and Sailrite is easily reached by phone or email for questions or support ( I have experienced this first hand, and trust me, I'm not getting any special treatment). I don't know what kind of support one could expect from the knock-off brands, but I'd be very surprised if it's as good. One difference I do see is the Consew has the older-style stitch-length lever. The new one on the Sailrite is WAY better and easier to use. Sailrite sells the lever assembly for around $125, and you could probably attach it to the Consew, but then you would have spent as much as just buying the Sailrite. If one simply cannot afford a Sailrite machine, the knock-off brands will probably function the same, at least initially. For me, the Sailrite is worth the extra cost. I would suggest that you might look for a used Sailrite, but they aren't on the used market very much. There might be a good reason for that. Sorry for the lengthy response, I hope I answered your question. Let me know if I didn't or if you have other questions, and thanks for watching!
Thanks for your reply and your opinion is greatly appreciated. My family has been in the upholstery business since 1961 and has been using a Consew since the early 80s. That's why I tend to lean more towards the Consew model. However, I have been thinking a lot about the Sailrite. It seems I have some thinking to do.
I bet you could teach me a lot about upholstery! By the way, a Consew 206RB is high on my list of possible future industrial machines, I'm just waiting for the right used one to show up at the right price. Good luck with your decision, and I'd love to know what you end up with!
Hello, I would like to say hello to you, if you want to know if this machine can buy it for Chile ... do you have a web page or mail with whom I can communicate to see if I can buy it? .. do you know how much it will cost in dollars? Your kindness ... Greetings from Chile.
Hi Jason, you did a great job unboxing the Sailrite and explaining its attributes. Aside from the big advantage of a walking foot machine, how does this rank compared to the Singers 201 and 1200, that I just watched to explain? Here’s my email again, if you’d like to be more candid with me about this machine: melinski@optimum.net. I’m looking forward to following you going forward, once I’ve caught up with all your helpful videos. Keep up your great work recording for relatively new sewers. PS. I also agree about the big advantage of having a company to call in the US for help. Most of my machines that I really like are old Singers, no longer greatly supported. However, I still love my 201-2 and 201K. Take care.
Hey there, Yeah, it's all about the walking foot. My 1200 is easily the best-feeding non-walking foot machine that I've used, but when it comes to bulky seams in heavy technical fabrics, there's no comparison. The Sailrite is "clunky" compared to the 201/1200, like a pickup truck vs Rolls Royce. But when you need a truck .... Thanks for being part of this channel!
I have the Blue machine with the zig zag stitch option. It is my go to machine for all my projects. It goes through all the heavy stuff I sew. I'm going to look at the monster wheel option now. Thanks for sharing this.
From what I know the Sailrite machines are made in the Yamata factory in China and sold under several brands, sailrite uses some upgraded parts and tunes their machines extremely well. I got a good deal on one with the zig zag for $140 on craigslist needed a lot of work to sew right but worked really well after adjusting everything.
Danthefordfixer when you mention “Several brands,” would any of those brands be Consew and Rex? I read great praise for the Sailrite in forums and less than great for the Consew. Some even calling it a consumer grade home machine. The reviews are even worse for the Rex machines. And they all look basically the same. Even many parts are interchangeable. The only difference outright are the prices which coincidentally reflect the reviews in the forums.
So fortunate you received this Sailrite to unbox and test for your UA-cam followers. This is great!
I’ve always wondered about these Sailrite Sewing machines. So glad I stumbled on your videos. I’m beginning to ask myself that question: why do I have so many machines? I relate to much of your excitement.
That is a great complement of your skills I have always liked your way of sewing your not a show off your straight up about things and your quality of work is great not trying to give you a fat head you are good at what you do
Hi! Wonderful helpful Video uploads! Your Thompson Walking Foot is a heirloom collector's item all-right. So many knock-offs followed it, but Sailrite is the King Grandaddy of this genre of mini-portable Walkng Foot machines today. I c they went "all out" with your trial sample model LS-1 straight stitch gem! You got their famed "Monster Wheel"! The extra weight of that wheel helps the needle "punch thru" heavy fabric and maintain the punch all stitch nyte long. The machine belt, you mention is not a timing belt, but actually the motor belt (that attaches to the big Monster Wheel as you say). Was sad to hear, from you, that Sailrite is still building stuff in China. But Sailrite's custom patented internal parts (that they add inside) are of higher quality (and thicker metal) than the "knock-off" competition Walking Foot machines out there. I own a "knock-off" Alphasew pzw200 and the internal metal parts are so maleable until I can sometimes bend them with my bare hands! I'm currently using bailing wire 2 hold crap 2gether inside that machine. As a Costumer, a portable Sailrite Walking Foot and the portable Zig Zag Singer (u had in your earlier video) is the perfect "Sewing Arsenal" to have "on-set" of an Action/Adventure Superhero movie! Your Backpack Designs are excellent!
Thanks so much!
Tuck Porter
Ff
thanks for your replies! good points made. I'm looking forward to getting my machine.
Great vid. Liked and subscribed. I'm drooling over the new Fabricator machine they have introduced. Looking forward to more from this machine. Very cool of Sailrite to let you demo.
Thanks so much! I'm very interested in the Fabricator myself. The one thing I'd like to see (Sailrite, are you listening?) is for the servo motor to provide a needle-down-when-stopping option (so whenever you stop, it puts the needle all the way down, if I didn't say that clearly). This speed things up a lot since you don't have to reach over and rotate the hand wheel to bury the needle every time you stop. On a big project, that can add up! But yes, Sailrite IS a very cool company, with a lot of great products (not just sewing machines). Thanks for watching, commenting and subscribing!!!
Andrew W. H
thank you! this is just what I need! I do need a walking for machine and this one seems to be very affordable. I also like the set up. its not huge requiring a huge table. I'll be watching for more videos on this machine! Thanks for bringing it to my attention!
Thanks debating between the zigzag and the black commercial one.
That's a tough choice, good luck!
I bought the LZ version a couple of years ago and I had to return it due to a design issue with the pulley system. Matt said they corrected it on a video I posted a review of the machine, but they never offered to replace it with the updated version. I hope they corrected it in the one they sent you for free.
Hey Kevin, thanks for watching and commenting! I watched your video (and I've watched and enjoyed several other videos of yours!). I haven't experienced any similar problems so far, so hopefully whatever the issue was has been corrected.
Thanks again for your input!
For Andrea B- I would try a couple layers of wax paper to see if that eliminates the scratching of your leather.
SUBSCRIBED. What a cool cat you have! I have been considering a Sailrite machine myself for some time. I like to mess with Cordura. Sailrite has some great tutorial videos and kits, plus their customer service has always been great when I was ordering fabrics, etc. That being said, I just have a Singer 201-2.
Thanks!
I'm fortunate to be enslaved by two adorable cats. They aren't much help at sewing or opening boxes, though.
I'm really happy with the Sailrite Ultrafeed, but I'm also jealous of your 201, I'm keeping my eyes out for the right one of those to add to my collection!
Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Hi Jason. I just received my LS-1 Basic. The short and dirty is that I upholster AND make bags. Upholster for $$, bags for fun. Since the former is generally more important than the latter, I needed a:
Powerful (Check)
Walking foot (Check)
Portable. For a whole host of reasons I now question (Check, though heavy!)
Interchangeable or interUSABLE foot for welt/piping. As this is EVERYTHING with upholstery. (Negative Check)
If I even attempt to use a cotton cord its a smashed mess even with the presser foot tension barely present. Also...speaking of tension, my LS-1 came set for sewing through several pieces of Naugahyde and so, the tension Olympics begin. I was so frustrated by the GUESS work that goes into setting the tension on this machine. If re-packaging weren't such a pain, I'd have had it sent back the same afternoon.
Also, all the reviews I read had the strangest complaints. Among which were, initial starting power. I find this great on this machine. Doesn't every machine HUM when its challenged? However, I don't need a slow application like I might for detailed leather work which I'm not really willing to try on bags because the cording issue seems unresolvable. Also rarely mentioned is the weight. I guess I didn't exactly frame out what dragging 40 lbs around for a female could mean. Too heavy to move indeed.
Hi Peggy,
Sorry you aren't enjoying your machine. I don't do upholstery (much, anyway), so I can't speak to the welting issue. I think the LSZ-1 has a foot with an integrated welting channel in it, but NOT the LS-1. I'm pretty sure a welting foot is available from Sailrite, but I haven't checked, you might check their site.
I have NO idea what you mean about "guesswork" setting the tension. Out of the 12 machines I own and the dozens I currently work with or have, it seems to me the tension adjustment on the Sailrite I have works the same as any other. I tend to use similarly heavy fabrics and similar threads, but I certainly have had to make tension adjustments and have had zero issues with this. If you think your unit is defective, I urge you to contact Sailrite, their customer service seems to be quite good.
Regarding the weight, my Sailrite (machine only) actually weighs LESS than my Singer 237 (typical 1960s vintage domestic machine). If you need a walking foot machine, and you need for it to be portable, this is as good as it gets. The Basic package doesn't come with the case, but with the "wood" base, which itself is quite heavy. I imagine the case would at least make it easier to transport.
I hope that helps, good luck and thanks for watching!
I happened to walk over to my machine after I wrote the previous comment, and I was incorrect - the LS-1 DOES have a channel for welting in its foot. However, Sailrite does have an additional foot for "larger" cord on their site, you might want to give that a look!
@Peggy Lewis Did you get your troubles with your machine sorted Peggy?
Jason, I make quilted weekend bags from Colton quilting fabric that has been fused to a stiff foam stabilizer. The bags are lined so 2 layers of cotton an 2 layers of fused foam. stabilizer. I've been using a jeans needle with my walking foot with no problems. Am considering the LS-1 to do these projects in addition of leather trim on them. Any concerns?
Hi Lou,
While I don't have experience with the specific materials you are using, I can tell you that the Sailrite Ultrafeed has only surprised me by handling MORE than I think it will. The foot lift height is not very high, so 3/8" might be tough to squeeze under the foot, but if you can get it under the foot, it'll probably sew it (and more importantly FEED it well). I have read online that the foot lift can be adjusted higher, but I haven't tried it myself.
The only other possible issue is the feet and feed dogs can mark the leather as you sew. I believe Sailrite offers smooth feet and feed dogs for sewing leather, and Tandy is now selling a version of the Ultrafeed machine specifically for leather, so those parts might be available from them, too.
I hope that helps, let me know if you have other questions, and thanks for watching!
Great video! Had a Thompson was kind of klunky . Bought a Consew 90% identical to the ultrafeed .
Sailrite is awesome they have everything in their literature.
I agree that the Thompson, and to some extent the Sailrite, are "clunky" (especially compared to something like my Pfaff 260). However, they just feed everything!
Thanks for your comment, and thanks for watching!
I see the boss is helping
As always!
Wish I had one , but need the zig zag stitch option , which puts it up in the $1300.00 Can range . Don't have enough projects to warrant the cost at the moment . Hoping to get by with a older singer U20 with out a walking foot. Maybe in the future . Looking forward to see what you can do with it.
You can get the LSZ-1 (zig-zag) for $750, which is still a lot of money, but the machine seems worth it if you can afford it. All of my sewing to date has been with older, used machines, and you can certainly do a lot with an older, non-walking-foot machine. I think these machines are a great option for someone who wants brand new, doesn't want to hunt the used market looking for the "right" machine, wants something with a warranty, etc.
What kind of projects are you doing?
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Paul Lachance I know this thread ( bah dump dump) is 2 years old, but in the industry, we are using Juki’s that operate like a home machine but roar along close to 2K sts/min. They do not have an external motor, so they are quiet. My industrials vibrated my 3 story house built on solid granite up in the Catskill Mtn area of New York. Many schools use them for textile labs also. Lol, in fact, I am still thinking I may need one. I don’t do wedding gowns anymore with seams that were 11 yards long, I really could have used it back in those days. But I got the 600 lb. vibrator and lived with it. We did have to turn up the telly in my sewing room, me and my five kids, but this was our lives. Hope this helpedand you still get this reply.
Love your videos, I am into leather working and leather sewing machines are a small fortune. I am only a hobbyist and mostly sew leathers that are only 5-6 oz with a soft temper. How do you think this would sew leather? The price of this machine is great. A good amount of leather crafters use old Singer 201s but parts can be a pain to get. Thanks for any info
Hi, and thanks!
If a 201 can sew it, I'd say this thing definitely can. Sailrite now sells feet for this machine that have the teeth ground down a bit to prevent marking leather. I don't have a huge amount of experience with anything sturdier than auto upholstery-type leather, but I'd say if you're making stuff with softer leathers (not belts or boot soles), this machine should be capable of it. I don't know if there is a way to slow it down, which I think leather workers tend to do with their machines. It's not a terribly fast machine, and you could step up to the Monster Wheel, which has a handle to make hand cranking easier.
I'm preparing to do a full review of the machine soon (I just moved from CO to FL, and still don't quite have the sewing room set up), and I'll try to include some leather samples to see how it does.
What kinds of things do you make?
Thanks for you question, and thanks for watching!
I appreciate the video again. I took my Ultrafeed into a shop this morning to have some work done on it and talked briefly with the shop manager who asked what I planned to do with it. I replied I wanted to make fanny packs, duffel bags, backpacks and the like. He responded that it's a great machine for fanny packs and other small projects, but it is not large enough to do large backpacks and such. There is not enough space under the arm to fit a lot of material. I was sorry to hear that but wonder if I can find a way to make it work.... Your thoughts?
I used a flathead to help raise the pressure foot to accomodate thick folds of canvas for a patio umbrella I designed. Once you squash that material in and lower the pressure foot, it will sew and eat that fabric.
My reply would have been “Why would I need a lot of room under the arm? Normally you have the fabric to the left of the needle, not balled up and squished under the arm to the right of the needle.”
I have the LS-1 for almost 2 years now and i love it. I mainly use it for leather pillow covers and handbags. The only issue i cannot resolve is when i am topstitching. The feeding teeth underneath my work scratches my leather (specially if the leather is a little thicker). I don't really have a problem on the top as i bought a leather foot that is not as sharp as the feeding dog. I tried to lower the tension but it is still making marks. Any tips?
i'm grasping at straws, as I don't do a lot of leather sewing, but I wonder if something like plastic-dip (available at home improvement stores) could be used to coat the feed dog teeth to minimize scratching?
I am not sure i would put that stuff on the feed dog. I was planning to reduce the pressure of the foot to maximum and if it is not enough, adding an interfacing underneat my project that i can tear away after.
Sounds like you know more about it than I do. I'll have to try some leather on this machine when I get a chance. I bet someone could 3d print either a plastic feed dog for this machine, or some covers for the existing dogs if there were enough demand to bother with it, I wonder if either would be helpful. I know some dedicated leather sewing machines have roller feet, but I don't know if there is anything special about the feed dogs. Let me know if you find something that works for you!
I just do crafts on my machine but i am really picky on the finishes so i hate when i see marks on my project. Hopefully Sailrite will make a feed dog for leather just like they did for the foot. I also tought about buying another feed dog and gind it a bit just to remove the top part of the teeth. Let's stay in touch and find a solution together for that issue. Happy New Year!!!
Sounds good, happy new year!
I have this one in my cart. How often you have to oil it? Thanks for the video
Hi! Sailrite's manual will have the best recommendations for oiling, but I think I might have oiled this one twice in the last 5 years. I have a LOT of other sewing machines, though. It definitely isn't a machine that needs oiling every single time you use it, if that helps.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades it helps a lot. Thank you!
Thank you for the very thorough review
Thank YOU for watching!
The seam thickness is 3/8" with all layers before any leather.
Nice job. Your lighting looks great!
Thanks! I'm ashamed to admit this, especially to you - my light source is a powerful bulb located 93 million miles away. Just picked a better time of day and not in the basement .... Oh, and it's bounced off of my drywall ;)
thejasonofalltrades No shame in that! The important thing is that the lighting is good.
Mike Thomas Thanks!
Thanks for sharing, greetings from 🇧🇿
Thanks for sharing - good info
one question please Jason, what is the amp on this motor?
I would love to have a machine that can sew suede, veg tanned leather and chrome tanned leather. The company (Sailrite) is a little light on the information sewing leather. Canvas, sun cloth and webbing seems to be their target market. I just want to sew leather. What do you think? Have you tried leather yet?
Hi Bruce,
"Sewing leather" is a pretty broad topic, but if you're talking the kinds of leathers you might use to make a bag, wallet, etc., the Sailrite can handle that no problem at all. I think they now sell smooth feet for the machines so the feet won't mark the leather.
Tandy Leather now sells a version of the Sailrite Ultrafeed that Sailrite makes for them, you might want to take a look at it.
Any sewing machine is capable of sewing (thin) leather. What makes the Sailrite better than typical domestic machines is the walking foot, which provides superior feeding, especially over thick transitions at seams, etc.
If you want to make horse tack, this probably isn't the right machine.
I hope that helps, thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades Tandy's machine is $400 more than the Sailrite. And it is the same exact machine without the backing of Sailrite. Sewing 2mm chrome tanned. Sewing 1.5mm suede. I am sure this machine will work. I saw the smoother foot and dogs in the videos. I can make a magnetic guide. So, the case is better than anyone elses also. Industrial strength materials and locks. Thanks again.
@@bbrachman Did you get one?
Sail rite sure sends out a lot of free machines
Do they?
I just bought the LSZ-1 with zing sag. thanks for your video.! I'll tell them Jason sent me.
That's awesome! Thanks for letting them know, I appreciate that. Let me know how you like it once you have it!
jeveux avoir mon fabrlcator
what do you think of the speed ability? slow? fast? can the speed be easily controlled?
This machine is about as fast as my fastest domestic machine (Pfaff 260). My Singer 20-33 industrial is a LOT faster, but truthfully, I rarely use its full speed. I recently had a chance to do some sewing in a canvas shop using a Pfaff 1245 industrial with a servo motor (a couple-thousand dollar machine), and the shop had all of their machines slowed down to a speed roughly comparable with this machine. Unless you're doing production, with long straight seams, I don't think speed is that important.
Hello, I just came across your video, is it possible to know the motor power in watts?
Hi!
The stock motor (not the new WorkerB) is a 1.5 amp motor. I don't know anything useful about how electricity works, but from a quick Google, it appears that how many watts is a function of how many amps x how many volts, with maybe some other factors. I would suggest if it is something you really need to know, reach out to Sairite, and they will probably be able to help determine if the power draw will work in your situation.
I hope that helps!
Esa máquina es nueva ? Aún se hacen máquinas de hierro ? Creí que ya sólo se construían de plástico ... Qué marca es ?
Esta máquina es de Sailrite. Es una máquina muy resistente hecha de metal, pero no de hierro fundido, como máquinas muy antiguas. Tengo once máquinas, incluidas muchas antiguas máquinas de hierro fundido, pero esta es la que más uso. Su sitio web es www.sailrite.com. Puede ir a su sitio web, copiar texto y pegarlo en Google translate, así es como me estoy comunicando con usted ahora. ¡Buena suerte!
Ya pakistan my bhi machine hy or pakistani price kia hy
I went to sailrite website to view this machine. its a 1.5 amp motor. I guess the only special thing is the even feed. I have a 1.5 amp machine I can put a walking foot on. is that what is special or makes it expensive? having the walking foot built in? cause although the motor is more powerful than a lot of home machines its not all that powerful. sounds loud too.
It is definitely louder than my other domestic machines, but not obnoxiously loud. The walking foot is definitely more robust than the walking foot you can attach separately (my wife uses one on her machine occasionally, no comparison). Most machines are powerful enough, but have a hard time feeding heavier fabrics, that's where the walking foot shines. You'll see when you get yours!
Is that a Roland set in the back?
It is! At some point I hope to play them lol!
I need a touch of direction:
I'm trying cordura 1000D with the LSZ-1. And, when I look at the stitches, they have protruding knots. I tried the upper thread tension adjustment, but the knots still protrude.
Please advise.
If the knots are protruding on the TOP side of the fabric, the top tension is too high and needs to be reduced. If you can't reduce it enough by backing off the upper tension knob, you may have to add tension to the bobbin case. There is a small slotted screw on the flat spring on the bobbin case. If you find you need to tighten the bobbin tension, make small adjustments (a half-turn at a time). Usually adjusting the top tension should do it unless you're making major changes in fabric/thread. Let me know if that helps!
thejasonofalltrades so knots protruding on the bottom are due to the bobbin tension?
Not necessarily. The rule of thumb is: if the bottom thread is coming up through the top, your TOP tension is too high. If the top thread is being pulled through the bottom, your TOP tension is too low. Ideally, the bobbin tension is set to a median tension so that all adjustments are made on the top tension.
If you think about it, the bobbin thread is pulling against the top thread to form the knot. If the top tension is too high, the bobbin thread is unable to pull it into the middle of the fabric, so the knot stays on top. If the top tension is too low, the bobbin thread pulls too much, so the knot ends up sticking out underneath.
It's hard to put it into words simply, but it's less complicated than it sounds.
thejasonofalltrades Hmmm... I'm wondering if I have ever seen a proper (non commercial product) stitch before. LOL
So, the knot should be in the fabric, between the top & bottom?
Yes, in a perfect stitch the knot is buried inside the fabric.
Only one question. Why can't we buy Sailrite machines in Australia????
I can't find anything on their website to suggest that you can't, does Australia prevent it? I'm guessing shipping would be ghastly though.
@@thejasonofalltrades I have no idea why I can not find a business selling them here
Out of curiosity have you sewed leather with it. I'm trying to see leather and I am getting weird stitches. Some the tension with be perfect some won't be it's really weird
I haven't tried sewing leather yet, but I'm working on a video about sewing leather. What thickness leather are you working with? What size thread, and do you have a leather needle?
thejasonofalltrades thanks for the reply. Yes I am using the leather needle and have the upgraded monster wheel. I am playing around with 2 layers of 2-3oz veg tan leather i would say about an eighth of an inch it punches through fine I just can't figure out why the tension goes wonky on some stitches
thejasonofalltrades oh and I'm using 138 thread the heaviest the machine can handle
My LS-1's manual recommends size 92 as the largest thread. I think veg tan might be too much for this machine (although perhaps it can be forced to do it somehow). Upholstery weight leathers should be fine. What sort of end product are you making?
como puedo adquirirla cual es el precio de la thompson mini industrial $
This machine might be a possibility. . I love to sew with denim and my regular machines just don't sew through all thicknesses..thanks.
I haven't made jeans - yet - but my experience with this machine's predecessor suggests that this one won't have any problem feeding thick seams with multiple layers of heavier materials. I think it's definitely worth a look if you're in the market for a new machine. I have some denim, I'll have to mock up some seams and see how it does! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Is it good for leather work mate.
Short answer - it depends.
Long answer - I'm planning a video to cover this in detail, but here goes: if by "leather work" you mean car upholstery, jacket-weight leather (for bags or whatever) and that kind of thing, then yes.
If by "leather work" you mean vegetable tanned leather for gun holsters, knife sheaths and horse saddles, then probably not.
Machines for working thick leather are big, powerful and SLOW. I don't do leather working, but from what I understand, you want it slow because if you punch a hole in the wrong place, it will remain visible (unlike many fabrics).
The Ultrafeed is quite powerful for a portable, and would probably feed and punch a needle through some pretty thick leather, but I don't think it's a GOOD machine for thick leather.
A viewer commented on another video that she was having issues with feed dogs from her Ultrafeed marking the leather she was sewing. From what I understand, Sailrite was able to provide a set of ground-down feed dogs that should reduce the marking. Might be something to consider if you decide the Ultrafeed might work for your needs.
To sum up - ANY sewing machine can sew SOME leather, but if you're making something out of thick leather, you probably need a machine designed for that purpose.
Thanks for your question, I hope that helps!
Hi . I watched your first vid about the Thomp Walking Mach. I have a new old one I bought in 1986. It is a gorilla. I keep it cleaned and maintenenced every year, even if I don’t use it. So, I got it out today, and need to repair a horse strapping on a horse blanket. I plugged it in and the machine started stitchin like a lunatic. OY! I pulled the plug and realized the foot pedal was not attached. I forgot what plugs in where, and not a diagram in the manual, nor one look at your review showing how to connect the thing. Lol I kept straining my head to see if I could see around the side of your demo, but the cords were wound up in the opening under the hand wheel. Can you show me how to connect the plugs and foot? There is a short power cord and a foot pedal with a receptacle box inline with openings for two male plugs it seems. I don’t want to lock up the mechanics or timing. But since it turned on like a possesed object... I have my fingers crossed. I find sometimes the simplest things form big stumbling blocks in my sewing life. Oh, my machine came without a base, and I am swopping sewing straps on for a steady base box he can make for me. So, thank you and the Sailrite looks nice represents the continuing of a small industrial machine. Great review, your focusing and demos get better and better! I think you can send me a reply on you tube or something, but if you need my email, just get in touch with me somehow, here I guess. lol. thank you!!!
For the benefit of anyone else with this problem, the plug receptacle is marked "light" in one receptacle and "motor" in the other, but it is pretty hard to see.
Where can I get one for $650?!
From Sailrite ... in 2016, when this video was published.
Sadly, the price has increased substantially since then, although I still love this machine and think it is worth the cost if it meets your needs.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
is it available in bangladesh,how much it charge?
You can contact Sailrite at their website to find out if it is available. Thanks for watching!
I hope for an unbiased opinion free of personal preference and price influence. I ask only because I enjoy your videos and because you do the kind of sewing I want to do and come here for ideas and tips. Being an upholster’s son I lean towards Consew machines but again, I ask without bias. What are the differences between the Sailrite LS-1, Consew CP-206R, and the cheaper Rex 607 (besides branding and price)? All three are made in China and look similar. And I am under the impression that even some, if not all, the parts are interchangeable. Which would you recommend?
Hi Nathan, thanks for your question.
First thing, while Sailrite provided this machine to me, long before I ever approached them I have had the opinion that those in the market for a portable walking-foot sewing machine should purchase from Sailrite, not one of the knock-offs. My personal opinion is that the people who paid to develop the machine, and offer excellent support, customer service and parts/accessories, should be the ones to receive your money, rather than the people who "stole" the design. My understanding is that Sailrite contracted manufacturers in China to manufacture their design, and some of them started re-branding them and selling them behind Sailrite's back. I have heard, but have no evidence to support, that often these kinds of items (of all kinds) are "second-quality" items that otherwise wouldn't be sold by the brand name. I don't know if this is the case with the Consew and Rex machines, but there is a reason why they are cheaper, and it's probably not because the companies are charging less to be nice.
A quick Google search shows the Consew available at around $500. The basic Sailrite LS-1 is $650. The Sailrite comes with a nice base, although it does not include the (inexpensive) plastic case that the Consew comes with. The Sailrite includes a DVD that is full of great information, and a VERY comprehensive user manual that includes schematics, parts lists, and maintenance instructions. All of this is available online, for free, from Sailrite, and one could certainly buy another brand and then use Sailrite's information to maintain that machine. I wouldn't feel right doing that, but that's only my opinion.
I've never seen or used a Consew or Rex machine. The Rex is so inexpensive that I would be highly suspicious of it, and I would only consider it if you just can't afford anything else. Again, just my opinion.
At the moment, there is a used Thompson PW-500 (the predecessor and virtual twin of the Sailrite LS-1, I have several videos featuring mine) on my local Craigslist for $400. I think that's a bit high (I think I paid a little under $300 for mine), but I think even at $400 that would be a better buy than a new knock-off machine. Honestly, time will tell but I think my Thompson feels a little more solid than even my Sailrite.
I think I've said quite a lot without answering your question - without firsthand knowledge, I don't know what the actual differences between these machines are, but here's what I think:
Sailrite has their machines manufactured in China. Some of the manufacturers they contracted used the opportunity to sell machines or parts "out the back door," and the resulting machines cost somewhat less than the Sailrite machines. I would question the quality of those machines, but again, I have no firsthand knowledge. Sailrite's machines are inspected, tuned and tested by their staff here in the USA before shipping, and Sailrite is easily reached by phone or email for questions or support ( I have experienced this first hand, and trust me, I'm not getting any special treatment). I don't know what kind of support one could expect from the knock-off brands, but I'd be very surprised if it's as good.
One difference I do see is the Consew has the older-style stitch-length lever. The new one on the Sailrite is WAY better and easier to use. Sailrite sells the lever assembly for around $125, and you could probably attach it to the Consew, but then you would have spent as much as just buying the Sailrite.
If one simply cannot afford a Sailrite machine, the knock-off brands will probably function the same, at least initially. For me, the Sailrite is worth the extra cost. I would suggest that you might look for a used Sailrite, but they aren't on the used market very much. There might be a good reason for that.
Sorry for the lengthy response, I hope I answered your question. Let me know if I didn't or if you have other questions, and thanks for watching!
Thanks for your reply and your opinion is greatly appreciated. My family has been in the upholstery business since 1961 and has been using a Consew since the early 80s. That's why I tend to lean more towards the Consew model. However, I have been thinking a lot about the Sailrite. It seems I have some thinking to do.
I bet you could teach me a lot about upholstery! By the way, a Consew 206RB is high on my list of possible future industrial machines, I'm just waiting for the right used one to show up at the right price.
Good luck with your decision, and I'd love to know what you end up with!
does it use 220volt outlet or 110
Sorry for the late response. This machine is 110V in the US, and is available in the European 220. Hope that helps!
Hi, how much you buy sewing machine.
You can see current pricing at Sailrite's website, Sailrite.com.
linda maquina vermelha quero uma pra mim amei
Hello, I would like to say hello to you, if you want to know if this machine can buy it for Chile ... do you have a web page or mail with whom I can communicate to see if I can buy it? .. do you know how much it will cost in dollars? Your kindness ... Greetings from Chile.
Hi Jason, you did a great job unboxing the Sailrite and explaining its attributes. Aside from the big advantage of a walking foot machine, how does this rank compared to the Singers 201 and 1200, that I just watched to explain? Here’s my email again, if you’d like to be more candid with me about this machine: melinski@optimum.net. I’m looking forward to following you going forward, once I’ve caught up with all your helpful videos. Keep up your great work recording for relatively new sewers.
PS. I also agree about the big advantage of having a company to call in the US for help. Most of my machines that I really like are old Singers, no longer greatly supported. However, I still love my 201-2 and 201K. Take care.
Hey there,
Yeah, it's all about the walking foot. My 1200 is easily the best-feeding non-walking foot machine that I've used, but when it comes to bulky seams in heavy technical fabrics, there's no comparison. The Sailrite is "clunky" compared to the 201/1200, like a pickup truck vs Rolls Royce. But when you need a truck ....
Thanks for being part of this channel!