I am glad it all worked finally. A small suggestion for powering external stuff from any computer's power lines, find the source of the voltage line that you need to use and tap to that point. If you need 5V, find the on-board regulator (if there is one) and tap on its output pin. If there is no onboard regulator, it means there is an external PSU, use the appropriate pin of the jack that the PSU connects to the computer. Do not measure around the board and solder on any random point you measure the voltage you need, it may be a pull-up that will show the full voltage when nothing is connected, but as soon as you draw even a little current, that will drop drastically. Do not connect to the Vcc pins of the any IC's too, again the current you draw may cause a drop at that point, upsetting the particular IC. Always go for the source of the voltage you need, and always be aware of the current draw of whatever you are adding, it may be too much, causing stress on the power circuit. P.S., My last name is not easy to pronounce for an English-speaking person, so I am just appreciating your effort and smiling here 🙂
I would have done exactly that, but I'm actually going to be modifying the power supply section before this is all over, so I wanted some place that wouldn't be changing in the near future. Thanks for your patience with my poor American pronunciation.
Great video, I really enjoyed the amount of detail you incorporated into the video and the clear explanation of what you did. Thank you very much for the mention, keep up the good work and thank you for sharing!
Thanks for the kind words. It could have and should have been better. For instance, I recorded a section where I went through the motherboard schematic to find where I should connect the signal from the Bluetooth module, but I failed to record the audio, so I had to leave it out of the finished product. 50+ videos into this whole content creation thing and I'm still learning. You're more than welcome for the mention. You and the others deserve at least that when I'm using your ideas.
As the owner of a Dragon 64, this is useful to me too. Much appreciated. The video was very well produced. Unfortunately, I cannot offer anything other than appreciation.
Excellent stuff! I see you're using a SCART converter for composite to HDMI... I understand some SCART devices accept component video 🤔 just sayin'. (Thanks for the shout out too! Just passed 100 subs the other day. 🎉)
I'm actually using a RetroTink 2x in this video. I have a SCART to HDMI converter that I use with both my Amstrad and the Coco3 (when I'm using the Switch-a-roo). You're welcome for the shout and thank you for the good ideas.
@@jaycee1980 component is different than S-video, and better quality. Again it's just my understanding that _some,_ SCART devices accept YUV (component), and if you have one of those, it should work well with a CoCo 1 or 2.
Great video @YARC-1981 I love the detail you went into on the mods you installed. Now as far as the bluetooth module you installed, where do you buy this module from?
@@YARC-1981 Thank you :) I looked there and took me going through a lot of listings to find a board that looks like the one you have :) I ordered a pack. I wonder how this would work if you send left channel to the cassette in and the right to a small speaker to use for monitoring what is coming into the CoCo?
@@David_Ladd It should work. Don't know that I'd do it, though. Sure, there's a little nostalgia or ASMR with that sound, but it can get annoying, too. At the very least I'd want to include a small amplifier with volume control so you can turn it down if you get sick of it.
@@YARC-1981 Hmmmm well could put a switch on the monitor speaker I guess so it works like the monitor switch on the CCR-81. I remember listening to graphic images loading from tape when I was a kid. For some reason I liked listening to the data loading.
I see. No. The PCBWay shared project had three files attached: the gerber ZIP (no schematics, just gerbers) a text document containing the bill of materials and a ZIP containing a copy of the original installation guide for the UVD from Mark Data products. The Mark Data manual was helpful in finding where to pull the necessary signals from, but didn't provide any insight into the working of the circuit.
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent video and work!! Thanks for sharing
Thanks, Rudy!
I am glad it all worked finally. A small suggestion for powering external stuff from any computer's power lines, find the source of the voltage line that you need to use and tap to that point. If you need 5V, find the on-board regulator (if there is one) and tap on its output pin. If there is no onboard regulator, it means there is an external PSU, use the appropriate pin of the jack that the PSU connects to the computer. Do not measure around the board and solder on any random point you measure the voltage you need, it may be a pull-up that will show the full voltage when nothing is connected, but as soon as you draw even a little current, that will drop drastically. Do not connect to the Vcc pins of the any IC's too, again the current you draw may cause a drop at that point, upsetting the particular IC. Always go for the source of the voltage you need, and always be aware of the current draw of whatever you are adding, it may be too much, causing stress on the power circuit. P.S., My last name is not easy to pronounce for an English-speaking person, so I am just appreciating your effort and smiling here 🙂
I would have done exactly that, but I'm actually going to be modifying the power supply section before this is all over, so I wanted some place that wouldn't be changing in the near future. Thanks for your patience with my poor American pronunciation.
Great video, I really enjoyed the amount of detail you incorporated into the video and the clear explanation of what you did. Thank you very much for the mention, keep up the good work and thank you for sharing!
Thanks for the kind words. It could have and should have been better. For instance, I recorded a section where I went through the motherboard schematic to find where I should connect the signal from the Bluetooth module, but I failed to record the audio, so I had to leave it out of the finished product. 50+ videos into this whole content creation thing and I'm still learning. You're more than welcome for the mention. You and the others deserve at least that when I'm using your ideas.
@@YARC-1981 Oh that kind of stuff happens all of the time! Even still, your video was great!
Another great video! Thanks for the content!!
My pleasure!
As the owner of a Dragon 64, this is useful to me too.
Much appreciated.
The video was very well produced.
Unfortunately, I cannot offer anything other than appreciation.
It's all good. I'm glad you got something useful from it. Thanks for the watch and the compliment.
Excellent stuff!
I see you're using a SCART converter for composite to HDMI... I understand some SCART devices accept component video 🤔 just sayin'.
(Thanks for the shout out too! Just passed 100 subs the other day. 🎉)
I'm actually using a RetroTink 2x in this video. I have a SCART to HDMI converter that I use with both my Amstrad and the Coco3 (when I'm using the Switch-a-roo). You're welcome for the shout and thank you for the good ideas.
S-video into SCART is not standard, only a few TV's supported it and most SCART to HDMI converters dont either.
Hi, Peter and thanks for the comment. I'm confused, though. I'm not trying to use S-Video here, so I'm not sure what you're referring to.
@@YARC-1981 sorry i thought that was marked as a reply to @CoCoNutBob
@@jaycee1980 component is different than S-video, and better quality. Again it's just my understanding that _some,_ SCART devices accept YUV (component), and if you have one of those, it should work well with a CoCo 1 or 2.
Great video @YARC-1981
I love the detail you went into on the mods you installed.
Now as far as the bluetooth module you installed, where do you buy this module from?
I got them from Amazon.com, but I've seen them on AliExpress and, I believe, Mouser and Digikey. Thanks for watching and glad you enjoyed it.
@@YARC-1981
Thank you :)
I looked there and took me going through a lot of listings to find a board that looks like the one you have :)
I ordered a pack.
I wonder how this would work if you send left channel to the cassette in and the right to a small speaker to use for monitoring what is coming into the CoCo?
@@David_Ladd It should work. Don't know that I'd do it, though. Sure, there's a little nostalgia or ASMR with that sound, but it can get annoying, too. At the very least I'd want to include a small amplifier with volume control so you can turn it down if you get sick of it.
@@YARC-1981
Hmmmm well could put a switch on the monitor speaker I guess so it works like the monitor switch on the CCR-81.
I remember listening to graphic images loading from tape when I was a kid. For some reason I liked listening to the data loading.
No manual or circuit in the zip file ?
Could you be more specific? I'm not sure what you're asking.
The zip file on pcbway shows no manual and no circuit only gerber @@YARC-1981
I see. No. The PCBWay shared project had three files attached: the gerber ZIP (no schematics, just gerbers) a text document containing the bill of materials and a ZIP containing a copy of the original installation guide for the UVD from Mark Data products. The Mark Data manual was helpful in finding where to pull the necessary signals from, but didn't provide any insight into the working of the circuit.
All i see is gerber zip and bom text file nothing else on website@@YARC-1981