USING THE POWER HAMMER WE FORGE A CUT OFF TOOL FOR THE ANVIL HARDY/HARDIE HOLE. 0:42 FIRST WE FULLER IN TO ISOLATE MATERIAL. YOU CAN DO THIS WITH A STRIKER OR ALONE IN THE SAME WAY. 02:30 THEN FORGE OUT TO FIT THE HARDY/HARDIE HOLE, THEN UPSET SO IT SITS FLAT TO THE ANVIL. 05:54 THEN WE FULLER AGAIN TO CREATE A LIP, YOU DONT HAVE TO DO THIS, ITS JUST FOR LOOKING NICE. 09:25 USING A FULLER AGAIN WE PUSH THE MATERIAL DOWN AND SPREAD OUT FOR SUPPORT ON THE EDGE OF THE HARDY TOOL THAT MEETS THE ANVIL FOR STABILITY. 11:30 FORGE OUT A TAPER, 16:38 THEN SHARPEN IT TO 60 DEGREES FOR A HOT CUT, 30 DEGREES FOR A COLD CUT. 16:54 THEN CLEAN UP, IT DOESNT NEED HARDENING. BUT YOU CAN HARDEN IT BUT TAKE THE CORNERS OFF THE BASE TO STOP IT MARKING THE ANVIL. HOPE YOU ENJOY THIS DEMONSTRATION.
Thanks Ian, i really enjoyed this one. i made 2 from a single billet which was a really great way of doing it but lost all the footage so made another.
@@workingwithiron Oof I feel you. I've done something similar myself on the 'Tree' sign post commission we are/were working on. Too much for it to make linear sense, it'd be a jump from forging out the branches and shaping them to painting a finished sign post. I just didn't have time to film everything the team were doing and meet the deadline as well. Hopefully I'll be able to fill in the gaps when we can get back in to the workshop. I'm at high risk being knackered and all so it won't be any time soon :(
Great vid! I love your vids, know all of them and I learn a lot from you - thank you for sharing and all of your time! It seems, we share the same hair-stylist :-)
Thanks Bryson, I love a nice looking tool so had to do it this way. Wanted to show the fuller technique too as it's easier than what I used to do before I was taught this way. Thanks for stopping by 👍
Agreed. It's important to take pride in one's work, and not just settle for "meh, close enough". That being said, there is a place for rough and improvised tooling(something I'm sure that poor piece of 10mm round used for the fullering can attest to. But hey, mild steel stock is essentially a consumable).
@@reigninoel haha that bent way easier than I wanted but it's now half round stock so just gonna straighten it and put it on the steel rack for collars or fullering again. Last bit of 10mm round in the workshop too 🤔
appreciate the kind words. In these recent vids i use a panasonic GH5 and edit with adobe premiere pro. white balance at 5600k and iso 800 most of the time. i film it pretty flat and edit the clarity in. Highly recommend the GH5.
no heat treat on this one.. yes, i had to cut it again, same way as before. i will use the offcuts for something else. i had to use more stock than needed to be able to hold onto it to fuller under the hammer and i would have cut it while it was square in section but to be honest i couldnt be arsed to cut through with a chisel, and couldnt be arsed to wait for it to cool to cut with a grinder either. im a lazy bugger lol
Lovely Nathan, just a few questions looks like you need a good fuller under the power hammer like at the start. The old round rod soon started to get a curve. And did you make all those tools in the smithy. Did you build that smithy, and those tongs at the start with the funny twist they caught my eye mate. Could you show us those tongs one time, would appreciate it. And the edge doesn't seem real sharp any reason for that? Cheers mate well done.
Regarding the fuller.... I'm trying to show a different way of doing things, using a bar stock rather than a fuller tool. We have Fuller's here but I'm showing alternatives. Not my forge, I didn't make any of the tools here, the owner did. The forge is an alldays and onions double hearth with fabricated hood, very common in the UK. Will make a set of those tongs for a video as I love them. The edge is sharp, it's way over 60 degrees, it's the heat of the bar that was the issue, it was what I call cold. I forgot to add the final.shot so put it in the gas furnace to heat up but ran out of gas and have no more due to what's going on and delivery 😒. Thanks for asking, that's what I love about all this! 👍
What steel did you use? (If it was mentioned in the vid I'm sorry for asking dumb questions, I must have missed it). Since you mention it doesn't need hardening I'm assuming something pretty tough.
its at the beginning of the vid, always say what it is during measurements before forging. EN8 though. it could be mild steel as long as you cut stuff hot it will hold up.
@@workingwithiron Thanks. I'm a total amateur, I have made a couple of hammers and a couple handled top tools, but so far pretty light-duty ones that I didn't feel really needed any heat treat at all, particularly since I use scrapped jackhammer bits for that, and those are made out of some pretty tough stuff.
@@benperkins10 no real need for heat treating mild steel, case hardening is a thing but pointless in a hot cut. just keep an angle of 60 degrees. and work the material to be cut as hot as possible and dont let it go below orange while cutting, like i did in the end of the video, that was wayyyyyyy too cold for cutting, keep the cutting tool cold and you will be fine. if it distorts sharpen it again, thats the beauty of mild steel, but it will be a consumable, meaning it wont stay perfect and depending on how much use you throw at it depends on lifetime. ive tapered mild steel flat in a competition before as nobody had a chisel, it worked but i certainly didnt put it in the toolbox after.
Very nice tool, got subtitle in beginning the material is H8! What is that, using a pettinghaus anvil I’m guessing you are western European but really could be anywhere!
I'm in England Paul. It was either en8 or en9, the translation is a bit off. I'd love to fully translate the videos one day but at the moment UA-cam is doing a well enough job.
USING THE POWER HAMMER WE FORGE A CUT OFF TOOL FOR THE ANVIL HARDY/HARDIE HOLE.
0:42 FIRST WE FULLER IN TO ISOLATE MATERIAL. YOU CAN DO THIS WITH A STRIKER OR ALONE IN THE SAME WAY.
02:30 THEN FORGE OUT TO FIT THE HARDY/HARDIE HOLE, THEN UPSET SO IT SITS FLAT TO THE ANVIL.
05:54 THEN WE FULLER AGAIN TO CREATE A LIP, YOU DONT HAVE TO DO THIS, ITS JUST FOR LOOKING NICE.
09:25 USING A FULLER AGAIN WE PUSH THE MATERIAL DOWN AND SPREAD OUT FOR SUPPORT ON THE EDGE OF THE HARDY TOOL THAT MEETS THE ANVIL FOR STABILITY.
11:30 FORGE OUT A TAPER,
16:38 THEN SHARPEN IT TO 60 DEGREES FOR A HOT CUT, 30 DEGREES FOR A COLD CUT.
16:54 THEN CLEAN UP, IT DOESNT NEED HARDENING. BUT YOU CAN HARDEN IT BUT TAKE THE CORNERS OFF THE BASE TO STOP IT MARKING THE ANVIL.
HOPE YOU ENJOY THIS DEMONSTRATION.
simple details 👍and reasoning of what we do for what purpose
That Hardy cut looks like it belongs in a display of fine tools instead of a blacksmith shop. Beautiful craftsmanship.
Outstanding craftsmanship, the tongs reinforced the phrase " The right tool for the job"...
Thank you for sharing Nathan, well done.
Very nice traditionally styled hot cutting tool Nath and an excellent look at the process. Kudos
Thanks Ian, i really enjoyed this one. i made 2 from a single billet which was a really great way of doing it but lost all the footage so made another.
@@workingwithiron Oof I feel you. I've done something similar myself on the 'Tree' sign post commission we are/were working on. Too much for it to make linear sense, it'd be a jump from forging out the branches and shaping them to painting a finished sign post. I just didn't have time to film everything the team were doing and meet the deadline as well. Hopefully I'll be able to fill in the gaps when we can get back in to the workshop. I'm at high risk being knackered and all so it won't be any time soon :(
Красота, молодец, поздрав из России!!!
That turned out to be a beautiful tool!
Thanks Thomas!
I liked the background sound of the power hammer coming up at the end of the measuring sequence at the beginning.
I had to fade it in otherwise headphone users will be off to the ear hospital 😆 glad you liked it
A very nice job and you made it look so easy, thank you
Very nice work. Thanks for the video TP
Glad you enjoyed it
I'm dropping my like now. Just got the notification and only have 10 minutes left of my break. I'll be making some of those soon for my anvil.
appreciate you stephen. have a great day!
Very nice and sturdy cut off hardy. Looks professional. Great job !!
Thanks a lot!
nicely done
I hope to set up my own forge in a year or two but this is helping me see what I need to learn and what tools I will need to build.
Love the look of the tool. Nice clean work as always
Great work.
thanks mike!!
Nice work for an xbox player. GG man I really enjoy watching you work. Thanks for the vids!
Great work
Thank you! 👍
Beautiful work
Thank you Doug 👍
Great vid! I love your vids, know all of them and I learn a lot from you - thank you for sharing and all of your time! It seems, we share the same hair-stylist :-)
I was also impressed with the large tongs you had for the big work piece. Did you forge those as well?
I didn't but i really enjoy using them and have never seen them anywhere else so will make a video on them tomorrow ready to upload the weekend.
I agree with your decision to make it look nice by creating the lip. Why not make good looking tools as long as you're making tools?
Thanks Bryson, I love a nice looking tool so had to do it this way. Wanted to show the fuller technique too as it's easier than what I used to do before I was taught this way. Thanks for stopping by 👍
Agreed. It's important to take pride in one's work, and not just settle for "meh, close enough". That being said, there is a place for rough and improvised tooling(something I'm sure that poor piece of 10mm round used for the fullering can attest to. But hey, mild steel stock is essentially a consumable).
@@reigninoel haha that bent way easier than I wanted but it's now half round stock so just gonna straighten it and put it on the steel rack for collars or fullering again. Last bit of 10mm round in the workshop too 🤔
This is made really cool!!
Very nice work. Is that a Say-Ha hammer? Looks like mine anyway. Heading out to the shop to give this a try.
Awsome forging!
Thanks luuk 👍
Nicely done new friend
Nice
Всё чётко и понятно без слов!
спасибо, надеюсь, вам понравилось видео! как бы вы назвали это на вашем языке, если бы искали его?
@@workingwithiron Приспособления для наковальни.
Beauty job
Good work. Does it need to be heat treated?
Not goin' lie, those tongs were pretty cool, like blade smithing tongs but for square stock.
They really are great tongs, will be making them for a video very soon.
That's it! im buying a power hammer.
Nice video, I really liked the quality, what camera do you use?
appreciate the kind words. In these recent vids i use a panasonic GH5 and edit with adobe premiere pro. white balance at 5600k and iso 800 most of the time. i film it pretty flat and edit the clarity in. Highly recommend the GH5.
Nice 2 questions 1)did you heat treat and how 2)did you end up cutting it shorter after your original cutting as it looked still too long
no heat treat on this one.. yes, i had to cut it again, same way as before. i will use the offcuts for something else. i had to use more stock than needed to be able to hold onto it to fuller under the hammer and i would have cut it while it was square in section but to be honest i couldnt be arsed to cut through with a chisel, and couldnt be arsed to wait for it to cool to cut with a grinder either. im a lazy bugger lol
Lovely Nathan, just a few questions looks like you need a good fuller under the power hammer like at the start. The old round rod soon started to get a curve. And did you make all those tools in the smithy. Did you build that smithy, and those tongs at the start with the funny twist they caught my eye mate. Could you show us those tongs one time, would appreciate it. And the edge doesn't seem real sharp any reason for that? Cheers mate well done.
Regarding the fuller.... I'm trying to show a different way of doing things, using a bar stock rather than a fuller tool. We have Fuller's here but I'm showing alternatives. Not my forge, I didn't make any of the
tools here, the owner did. The forge is an alldays and onions double hearth with fabricated hood, very common in the UK. Will make a set of those tongs for a video as I love them. The edge is sharp, it's way over 60 degrees, it's the heat of the bar that was the issue, it was what I call cold. I forgot to add the final.shot so put it in the gas furnace to heat up but ran out of gas and have no more due to what's going on and delivery 😒. Thanks for asking, that's what I love about all this! 👍
What happened at 15:30? Went from long to short cut blade
chopped it off. several times throughout this it gets cut. i just didnt show it being cut.
What steel did you use? (If it was mentioned in the vid I'm sorry for asking dumb questions, I must have missed it). Since you mention it doesn't need hardening I'm assuming something pretty tough.
its at the beginning of the vid, always say what it is during measurements before forging. EN8 though. it could be mild steel as long as you cut stuff hot it will hold up.
@@workingwithiron so if I'm making a mild steel hot cut is there any way I could/should heat treat it?
@@workingwithiron Thanks. I'm a total amateur, I have made a couple of hammers and a couple handled top tools, but so far pretty light-duty ones that I didn't feel really needed any heat treat at all, particularly since I use scrapped jackhammer bits for that, and those are made out of some pretty tough stuff.
@Apentogo brilliant thank you so much!
@@benperkins10 no real need for heat treating mild steel, case hardening is a thing but pointless in a hot cut. just keep an angle of 60 degrees. and work the material to be cut as hot as possible and dont let it go below orange while cutting, like i did in the end of the video, that was wayyyyyyy too cold for cutting, keep the cutting tool cold and you will be fine. if it distorts sharpen it again, thats the beauty of mild steel, but it will be a consumable, meaning it wont stay perfect and depending on how much use you throw at it depends on lifetime. ive tapered mild steel flat in a competition before as nobody had a chisel, it worked but i certainly didnt put it in the toolbox after.
💪
👍
😎👍👍🥇🏅🍻
Very nice tool, got subtitle in beginning the material is H8! What is that, using a pettinghaus anvil I’m guessing you are western European but really could be anywhere!
I'm in England Paul. It was either en8 or en9, the translation is a bit off. I'd love to fully translate the videos one day but at the moment UA-cam is doing a well enough job.