John, I haven't commented on your videos before, but I watch them consistently. I have to give kudos to you for one reason: You seem, or tend to use the KISS method, and I have been doing this stuff for a long time. Over complicating processes just makes things take to long. I like your tactics, as you seem to stick to the Keep It Simple Rules. Good Job, and the sign is classy, and will get the job done, I do however recommend a clear powder-coat overlay to keep your work looking great for a very long time.
Judd seems like a top-quality dog That sign turned out so well! And thanks for all the links to the stuff you mention. That fastcap marker is going to spare me some headaches
Nice sign! I REALLY enjoy your channel, and thanks VERY much for providing the super-informative content. I doubt I'll ever have/run a CNC machine, but if I ever do, I'll be much more prepared for having watched many of your videos.
Awesome looking sign John. That black texture is my favourite powder too. I've also clear powder coated polished signs to keep them looking bright. I put up a video of an Arduino controlled rotary table a few days ago and while doing that thought you needed an Arduino controlled length stop for your cutoff saw. Punch in the length you need and the stop moves to the correct length. It wouldn't be a difficult build.
Saw that the other day and wondered if you made it. Looks nice! Great tips on the vacuum table. I've used sandpaper under slippy parts when clamping them to the CNC router but wouldn't have thought to use it in combination with a vac.
Cool sign. As much as you cut stuff on that DeWalt saw, you should get some of the peel and stick tape measure to go on your in and outfeed tables, really saves a lot of time and the occasional mistake.
Tip for if you ever have to remove VHB. Braided fishing line is the best way to get a sign free from VHB. Slip it behind, use it like a saw. You'll need some handles for the line lol.
Love that 3M double sided tape. I don't think the stuff you have is the same as the tape used to hold windows onto sky scrapers and the sheet metal on cargo trailers (Wells Cargo) but it's the same family. Great stuff.
Tape installation on signs like that usually works well, but if you make a second version it could have a lug mounted on the back with screws (blind holes), and the receiver could screw to the wall just as you have already done only having a slot to accept the lug from the sign. Screw (stainless, security, or otherwise) could be on the bottom to stay out of the weather. Just an alternative. I'm guessing you'll have to use a heat gun or risk bending or destroying it to remove it now! Btw, looks nice!
I had a Zero Blast N Peen cabinet in my automotive machine shop. It served us well for many years. I looked it up and it is still produced by Clemco. Check it out if you are serious about a new cabinet system.
John - I'm F#$%^% drooling. That sign is so bad-ass!! Love it. Total inspiration to make a Maple Lane plate. Now I just need that pesky CNC first, LOL.... See ya in May
Nice Job guys ! Another awesome video from NYC CNC... Don't you think that you should cover the rest of the vacuum plate to "plug" outer holes ? I have seen that you make a perfect seal under your part but what about outer holes ?
I just want to take a moment to say that this one hell of an edited video. Top notch stuff, and must took some time to sort the various kinds of footage. Well done. Separated you from the kind of people that have the mentality of "film and go" thinking it will just work. Great Sign. I was thinking at first that you would just bolt it directly to the wall by itself. Wedge in some pieces of wood behind it, to level it, and away you go. With this method you can put something else on rather easily later. :)
Great lookin' sign! Another kind of powder you might want to check out is the "vein" powers. Eastwood has Silver Vein, Copper Vein, and one I hadn't seen before: Poppin Silver Vein (I wonder what "Poppin" means). As a reply to this comment I'm going to post a link to something I coated with Silver Vein for the 2015 Bar Z Summer Bash (17 second video). (Posting as a reply as the link will probably be marked as spam and I know how much of a hassle it is to deal with UA-cam's stupid spam-approving system.) That actually has a clear coat on top, but the clear doesn't change how it looks all that much. If I still have your attention, there's another powder coat company called "Prismatic Powders" that has a TON of different colors. They have a number of transparent colors and their strategy seems to be to combine a base coat with a colored top coat. One thing they do is put a base coat of a silver-y/white-ish "vein" powder and then put on a top coat of a color. That way you can color the veins whatever color you want... kinda. So, if you wanted pink veins you do the silver base with a pink top. Cool idea, but not one that I've actually tried. I get the impression that Prismatic Powders has some connection with... um... Columbia Coatings. Maybe Prismatic is just a reseller of Columbia? I dunno, but possibly something to look into if you're less lazy than I am. (Actually, it's a stone fact that you're less lazy than I am. :) )
The final fly cut is def the secret sauce!!! Looks awesome John. Do you have to worry about corrosion on the exposed aluminum or did you put something on it to protect it?
Hey! I’ve been really enjoying your videos. I’m trying to workout toolpaths for lettering like this with getting sharp inside corners. Do you have a video on the toolpaths on this?
Badass Sign John! Looked like a fun project. I was wondering if you still had the flex arm for tapping was going to message you about it, but now I see you still have it and use it!
John looks great and I base everything I do off of what you do and say. sounds like you got a new camera the audio is different. Keep up the good work I wish every day I will do where you are at some point!!!
I am currently working on designing a fairly large delta style 3D printer, whenever I get around to building it, I will have a few parts that I could either print in ABS, or have CNC milled, due to the large size of the printer (about 2.5 feet in diameter, and about 5 feet tall) I am likely leaning the CNC milled route. Definitely considering contacting you when the time comes and hiring your services for the milling work... the stepper motor mounts would be great for a Wednesday Widget video so that's a double bonus. I would be getting the CNC work done by a professional that I trust, and you would get to make some video content. Obviously if I decide to go the CNC route for them, I would be paying for the work, not looking for a handout or anything :P
i know you get plenty of comments and probably dont go through many but im a engineering student trying to build up my own shop. i love machining and was wondering what you started with and any advice to somone starting with very little
I thought the same thing. Am I missing something, or should the area of the sand paper be subtracted from the area of the face as well? I am still on my first cup of coffee, but I think there was actually very little downward force holding the aluminum plate but lots holding down the sandpaper. Given the loads for this operation were mostly side force this set-up was probably really good, but it is important to recognize how little actual downforce was on the aluminum plate. On my CNC router I have found work holding that controls sideways movement is far more critical than holding material down with lots of force.
Nuts to the software readout, count the squares inside the gasket :P That vacuum plate would ideally have in the corner engraved square size, atmo pressure rule, and frictions for various surfaces for reference.
Dan Gilbart has a video on UA-cam about sandblasting and he suggest using glass form the scanners they uses in a grocery store. Apparently it is diamond coated so it won't scratch and it is cheap because it is mass produced.
Pretty cool... The only thing I would have done different is machine two verticle slots in the backer plate to be used with t slot nuts and 82 degree counter sunk screws in the sign for adjustment to level instead of taping it.
John, I had that same blast cabinet- go to Lowe's or HD and get a piece big piece of 1/8in glass cut down to 4 pieces. cost me $12 for the 4 pieces- you can also flip them over and wipe an oiled rag over the foggy side to get more use. Also, watch eBay for cubic boride(something like that) nozzles. you might like my sandblast vid not as easy to watch as yours, but still ~50k views. I get the sandpaper thing, but don't you have a higher static friction with metal to metal vs paper to metal? BTW, where do you find those small rolls of vhb tape- lol
I'd be getting a new aluminium supplier if they are supply sub par products. None of our flat bar or plate is bowed here in Aussie land. I'd also clear coat the sign for longevity. Great vid with a great tip on Rest Machining :D
Regarding blaster visibility, throw out the plastic liner, and replace it with a glass pane. It cost me $3 total for the glass including cutting fee! About 11 min 20 sec into my video "Wood Chipper -Episode 22" I film from outside the blaster, and it's easy to see what's going on. (If you want a demonstration) For $3, I'll just replace the glass pane when I can't see anymore.
Cast Aluminum Tool and Jig plate would be flat and smooth saving you the first two fly cut OPS. Just peel off the protective film and start machining. the lettering.
The sign looks great! I do have a non-machining question, though. Does Judd stay pretty out of the way when you've got him at the shop? I've seen Fastcap's videos and they have some dogs out on the production floor. I also worked for a guy who let his dog out on the floor. I'm not worried so much about the dog causing problems, but more for the dog's safety. You all don't seem to have forklifts driving everywhere, though.
totally depends on the shop and the dog. If they're raised around the shop, they tend to learn what is dangerous but there's no telling. I had a friend who's dog insisted on watching welding, it ruined his eyes. He still watched it though.
All that work and you double sided taped it on?? I am familiar with that tape, personally I wouldn't trust it, especially outside. I thought you'd use the set screws to attach the sign in some clever way. Sign looks awesome. Great work. Love the vids.
True. Though the sign is bigger and has leverage for someone to pull on. He always comes up with awesome designs..guess I expected something more.....CNC-y. lol.
you might get yourself a extra powder coating room built in the shop (perhaps with drywall construction and a filter plate ventilation) so you don't have the fine dust all over the shop (might not be so good to have someone inhale that dust) oh and those concrete screws for normal (from what I know) should get installed with a impact driver because the threads need to cut themself into the concrete in a clean way (at least this is what our regulations are over here in Europe, and they should be pretty much the same over there in the States for those concrete fasteners
I have a sort of similar design that I want to turn into a burn marker for marking wood projects. It is however much smaller, and you would need an end mill of maybe 1/32" or maybe 40 thou/1.0 mm. It needs to be steel, maybe even stainless. Is that something you would be interested in trying for a video, without charging me a small fortune for it (as the online CNC services do..)?
i want to live there. it looks so quiet and serene.
John, The sign looks awesome! Another great video! Thank you for the shout out.
we got a badass over here, blowing the home depot stop signs... lol. great vid.
John, I haven't commented on your videos before, but I watch them consistently. I have to give kudos to you for one reason: You seem, or tend to use the KISS method, and I have been doing this stuff for a long time. Over complicating processes just makes things take to long. I like your tactics, as you seem to stick to the Keep It Simple Rules. Good Job, and the sign is classy, and will get the job done, I do however recommend a clear powder-coat overlay to keep your work looking great for a very long time.
That tarmach jog thingy is a cool. I have the exact same thing hooked to my video editing pc.
Well, you're the man to do your own sign. Looks great!
That 3m tape is the truth! that sign wont budge, this is kick ass nice work!!
tbh that sign looks REALLY nice.
Judd seems like a top-quality dog
That sign turned out so well! And thanks for all the links to the stuff you mention. That fastcap marker is going to spare me some headaches
Nice sign! I REALLY enjoy your channel, and thanks VERY much for providing the super-informative content. I doubt I'll ever have/run a CNC machine, but if I ever do, I'll be much more prepared for having watched many of your videos.
Being in Cleveland, I know your pain John. The back and forth weather has been nuts. Great looking sign.
Great job as always.
Awesome looking sign John. That black texture is my favourite powder too. I've also clear powder coated polished signs to keep them looking bright.
I put up a video of an Arduino controlled rotary table a few days ago and while doing that thought you needed an Arduino controlled length stop for your cutoff saw. Punch in the length you need and the stop moves to the correct length. It wouldn't be a difficult build.
I like the editing style with this video
That must feel so good putting up your shingle!!!
That sign looks good!
Saw that the other day and wondered if you made it. Looks nice! Great tips on the vacuum table. I've used sandpaper under slippy parts when clamping them to the CNC router but wouldn't have thought to use it in combination with a vac.
Cool sign.
As much as you cut stuff on that DeWalt saw, you should get some of the peel and stick tape measure to go on your in and outfeed tables, really saves a lot of time and the occasional mistake.
Very nice sign John! Enjoyed the video.
Take Care,
Reid
The sign looks great! Is that powder coat UV stabile? Hopefully it doesn't fade.
Nice sign! Great work John.
Hey! Your drawer organizers worked!!!
Awesome! Shane is a good customer of ours too.
Tip for if you ever have to remove VHB. Braided fishing line is the best way to get a sign free from VHB. Slip it behind, use it like a saw. You'll need some handles for the line lol.
Love that 3M double sided tape. I don't think the stuff you have is the same as the tape used to hold windows onto sky scrapers and the sheet metal on cargo trailers (Wells Cargo) but it's the same family. Great stuff.
JUDD! Sage loves rides in the truck too!
Looks great. Is there a milled SMW license plate on Judds ride?
Tape installation on signs like that usually works well, but if you make a second version it could have a lug mounted on the back with screws (blind holes), and the receiver could screw to the wall just as you have already done only having a slot to accept the lug from the sign. Screw (stainless, security, or otherwise) could be on the bottom to stay out of the weather. Just an alternative. I'm guessing you'll have to use a heat gun or risk bending or destroying it to remove it now! Btw, looks nice!
I had a Zero Blast N Peen cabinet in my automotive machine shop. It served us well for many years. I looked it up and it is still produced by Clemco. Check it out if you are serious about a new cabinet system.
John - I'm F#$%^% drooling. That sign is so bad-ass!! Love it. Total inspiration to make a Maple Lane plate. Now I just need that pesky CNC first, LOL.... See ya in May
That looks AWESOME!!
Nice Job guys !
Another awesome video from NYC CNC...
Don't you think that you should cover the rest of the vacuum plate to "plug" outer holes ? I have seen that you make a perfect seal under your part but what about outer holes ?
I just want to take a moment to say that this one hell of an edited video. Top notch stuff, and must took some time to sort the various kinds of footage. Well done. Separated you from the kind of people that have the mentality of "film and go" thinking it will just work.
Great Sign. I was thinking at first that you would just bolt it directly to the wall by itself. Wedge in some pieces of wood behind it, to level it, and away you go. With this method you can put something else on rather easily later. :)
Great lookin' sign! Another kind of powder you might want to check out is the "vein" powers. Eastwood has Silver Vein, Copper Vein, and one I hadn't seen before: Poppin Silver Vein (I wonder what "Poppin" means).
As a reply to this comment I'm going to post a link to something I coated with Silver Vein for the 2015 Bar Z Summer Bash (17 second video). (Posting as a reply as the link will probably be marked as spam and I know how much of a hassle it is to deal with UA-cam's stupid spam-approving system.)
That actually has a clear coat on top, but the clear doesn't change how it looks all that much.
If I still have your attention, there's another powder coat company called "Prismatic Powders" that has a TON of different colors. They have a number of transparent colors and their strategy seems to be to combine a base coat with a colored top coat. One thing they do is put a base coat of a silver-y/white-ish "vein" powder and then put on a top coat of a color. That way you can color the veins whatever color you want... kinda. So, if you wanted pink veins you do the silver base with a pink top. Cool idea, but not one that I've actually tried. I get the impression that Prismatic Powders has some connection with... um... Columbia Coatings. Maybe Prismatic is just a reseller of Columbia? I dunno, but possibly something to look into if you're less lazy than I am. (Actually, it's a stone fact that you're less lazy than I am. :) )
Wow. Awesome sign.
The final fly cut is def the secret sauce!!! Looks awesome John. Do you have to worry about corrosion on the exposed aluminum or did you put something on it to protect it?
Just curious, if you planned on fly cutting the face after powder coat why were you worried about the burs after milling?
nice explanations and the sign came out awesome.
looks awesome.
you should give it a clear coat as well, the machined letters will oxidize and get a whitish layer in time
Hey! I’ve been really enjoying your videos. I’m trying to workout toolpaths for lettering like this with getting sharp inside corners. Do you have a video on the toolpaths on this?
Badass Sign John! Looked like a fun project. I was wondering if you still had the flex arm for tapping was going to message you about it, but now I see you still have it and use it!
Why sandblast and tumble it, when you are going to cover the surface with powder-coat anyway? Or does it stick better this way?
John looks great and I base everything I do off of what you do and say. sounds like you got a new camera the audio is different. Keep up the good work I wish every day I will do where you are at some point!!!
Very nice!
That is a happy dog.
I am currently working on designing a fairly large delta style 3D printer, whenever I get around to building it, I will have a few parts that I could either print in ABS, or have CNC milled, due to the large size of the printer (about 2.5 feet in diameter, and about 5 feet tall) I am likely leaning the CNC milled route.
Definitely considering contacting you when the time comes and hiring your services for the milling work... the stepper motor mounts would be great for a Wednesday Widget video so that's a double bonus. I would be getting the CNC work done by a professional that I trust, and you would get to make some video content.
Obviously if I decide to go the CNC route for them, I would be paying for the work, not looking for a handout or anything :P
i know you get plenty of comments and probably dont go through many but im a engineering student trying to build up my own shop. i love machining and was wondering what you started with and any advice to somone starting with very little
The vacuum idea is lovely, great job, INDEED!
3:53 uh that face there is 68.3456 in ^ 2 (bottom right)? I think your confusing with the total surface area of the whole part..?
I'd probably select just the bottom face, click Inspect and get the surface area of just that selection.
I thought the same thing. Am I missing something, or should the area of the sand paper be subtracted from the area of the face as well? I am still on my first cup of coffee, but I think there was actually very little downward force holding the aluminum plate but lots holding down the sandpaper. Given the loads for this operation were mostly side force this set-up was probably really good, but it is important to recognize how little actual downforce was on the aluminum plate. On my CNC router I have found work holding that controls sideways movement is far more critical than holding material down with lots of force.
Nuts to the software readout, count the squares inside the gasket :P That vacuum plate would ideally have in the corner engraved square size, atmo pressure rule, and frictions for various surfaces for reference.
The blast cabinets that user water with the abrasives are better for visibility.
Dan Gilbart has a video on UA-cam about sandblasting and he suggest using glass form the scanners they uses in a grocery store. Apparently it is diamond coated so it won't scratch and it is cheap because it is mass produced.
you should have clear coated it. after a while the letters get dull from the weathering
or have one off his gofers out there polishing it every week ;)
Pretty cool... The only thing I would have done different is machine two verticle slots in the backer plate to be used with t slot nuts and 82 degree counter sunk screws in the sign for adjustment to level instead of taping it.
looks awesome...great job! maybe clear coat of laker could help to aluminium.
John, I had that same blast cabinet- go to Lowe's or HD and get a piece big piece of 1/8in glass cut down to 4 pieces. cost me $12 for the 4 pieces- you can also flip them over and wipe an oiled rag over the foggy side to get more use. Also, watch eBay for cubic boride(something like that) nozzles. you might like my sandblast vid not as easy to watch as yours, but still ~50k views. I get the sandpaper thing, but don't you have a higher static friction with metal to metal vs paper to metal? BTW, where do you find those small rolls of vhb tape- lol
I have a whole series of videos about upgrading that cabinet. You might want to check it out before you spend a ton on a new cabinet.
great to watch.. hint for you put your blasting cabinet in a dark room so there is no back light and put a light inside
Not trying to be rude but do you answer the questions viewers ask? I have left a question and would appreciate your answer. Thanks for your help!
Yes, I remember the blue hose rule - you taught me well and I use it all the time :-)
You know a machinist installed that sign....grub screws to plumb the mounting bracket! Three Thumbs Up!
I'd be getting a new aluminium supplier if they are supply sub par products. None of our flat bar or plate is bowed here in Aussie land. I'd also clear coat the sign for longevity.
Great vid with a great tip on Rest Machining :D
Beautiful work John. Did you use fusion to make the sign and logo? if not how did you?
Great work and it looks really fine 👍!
18:00 - "That may have been staged ahead of time". Hahahaha! Great video John. Congratulations!
Looks great!
Regarding blaster visibility, throw out the plastic liner, and replace it with a glass pane. It cost me $3 total for the glass including cutting fee! About 11 min 20 sec into my video "Wood Chipper -Episode 22" I film from outside the blaster, and it's easy to see what's going on. (If you want a demonstration) For $3, I'll just replace the glass pane when I can't see anymore.
I use Vectric's Aspire to make similar signs. See those signs Grimsmo has for an example.
That looks great! Will definitely go find some of that tape :)
Had no idea you could do powder coat in a toaster oven, so many ideas now! haha
We always use water with the tumbling media. Looked like you were running dry. Thoughts?
mechfeeney No, it was spraying. you can see it when he sticks his hand in to check.
Andrew Delashaw ahh I see now. Thanks.
Nice tumbler! It's just a hair better than my harbor freight rotary tumbler
I'm watching this on Tuesday! 😜
It's Wednesday where I am. Hi from the future! Unfortunately, Trump is still your president. On a lighter note, that sign looks amazing!
And you had to interject politics here....WHY??? "That sign looks amazing!" would have been both sufficient and true.
+Jonathan Larsson - It's current news that most of us can relate to. So it's true, sad, and funny all at the same time.
Thanks Keith. It was meant a spot of light(ish) humour with a twist.
+Kado - Oh I can relate. It was something like I would have said, especially the "hi from the future". That's what I laughed at the most.
Cast Aluminum Tool and Jig plate would be flat and smooth saving you the first two fly cut OPS. Just peel off the protective film and start machining. the lettering.
The sign looks great! I do have a non-machining question, though. Does Judd stay pretty out of the way when you've got him at the shop? I've seen Fastcap's videos and they have some dogs out on the production floor. I also worked for a guy who let his dog out on the floor. I'm not worried so much about the dog causing problems, but more for the dog's safety. You all don't seem to have forklifts driving everywhere, though.
I've heard most pets stay out of the way if they grew up in a shop, so the important bit is training them to do so.
totally depends on the shop and the dog. If they're raised around the shop, they tend to learn what is dangerous but there's no telling. I had a friend who's dog insisted on watching welding, it ruined his eyes. He still watched it though.
Where can I get one for my studio wall? You know, to go with my Turn Wright Machine Works swag
So how long since you had to replace a broken tip in the Haimer?(sp?)
All that work and you double sided taped it on?? I am familiar with that tape, personally I wouldn't trust it, especially outside. I thought you'd use the set screws to attach the sign in some clever way. Sign looks awesome. Great work. Love the vids.
turbo2ltr same tape that holds the emblems on your car. How many of them have fallen off?
True. Though the sign is bigger and has leverage for someone to pull on. He always comes up with awesome designs..guess I expected something more.....CNC-y. lol.
Vaseline is your friend on these vacuum plates
Any thick goop really, just keep the seal.
Could you explain more about the Superfly Cutter step ? I just purchased one for my cnc router.
I prefer signs at eye level. It looks nice but I think that you will want a clear coat on the sign to help preserve it.
New camera? Looking great!
How do you like the powder coat gun you used in this video?
Now its time to pull it off and 3M panel adhesive it to the bracket?
Must be a good neighborhood!
you might get yourself a extra powder coating room built in the shop (perhaps with drywall construction and a filter plate ventilation) so you don't have the fine dust all over the shop (might not be so good to have someone inhale that dust)
oh and those concrete screws for normal (from what I know) should get installed with a impact driver because the threads need to cut themself into the concrete in a clean way (at least this is what our regulations are over here in Europe, and they should be pretty much the same over there in the States for those concrete fasteners
Nice sign! Where do you get a “Superfly Cutter”?
you should've used a french cleat to attach the sign it makes it easier to attach squire
You should collaborate with Precious plastics!
Hahaha your dog is awesome!
That weird extra machining from 3D Adaptive has been bugging me for sooo long, thanks for the tip!
great job
Great video!!
fenomenal tu trabajo
Beautiful sign! Would have been perfect if you did red arround the logo ;-)
What ArcTeryx jacket are you wearing in the video?
Very nice! Thank you!
I have the same blast cabinet...
Very nice!
VHB, good stuff
How has that tape held up almost 2 years later?
Shane used a better font (-8
Cool vid, that blast cabinet is so rickety it's hilarious!
I have a sort of similar design that I want to turn into a burn marker for marking wood projects. It is however much smaller, and you would need an end mill of maybe 1/32" or maybe 40 thou/1.0 mm. It needs to be steel, maybe even stainless. Is that something you would be interested in trying for a video, without charging me a small fortune for it (as the online CNC services do..)?
I should add that I have a finished Fusion 360 design for it.
I was wrong. It actually took some mild tweaking to get it to even work with a 1/64" ball end mill. Up for the challange? ;)
Use Cast Aluminium Jig Plate if you want flat aluminium that will also stay flat when you machine it.