Nice build and follow up, James. I would add a cutoff switch for disconnecting the solar panels from the controller. That will allow the battery to shut down..I always understood it was bad for the controller to have the panels connected without a battery hooked up so, disconnecting the panels would be better for the controller and solve the battery shutdown issue too. For aesthetics, a toggle switch on the dash with a relay under the seat.
Finally! Been waiting to see Part II!! Great job on the solar panels! Clean panels would charge faster, it's been proven by Tito RV guy, I think it was him... Anyway, I like it! Find a place on the Dash to put a Big Red Battery Disconnect switch on it! lol
Cool design for sure! Seems like the BMS is set to auto turn on for charging maybe or wake up feature when it sees an input voltage? I know my SOK battery was shipped with the BMS turned off until it saw a proper input voltage to wake it up. When I think of golfers, I think of people concerned with aesthetics. Maybe adding a mesh to the sides and a nice lightbar/speakers/air scoop on the front to spruce it up and bet and you would be in business with golfers. I would add a water misting fan next to the windshield and a water tank with pump and maybe a small fridge since you have all that extra power.
The aluminum structure is fine and looks good for use! The 20/20 is a good idea the hole in the tube is just a perfect location. Thumbs up 👍 You drive this one 😂😂😂😂😂 with all the running around did you ever get the battery low? I’m thinking you will need to add an additional cutoff for the solar panels. But it’s not overcharging is it? I can understand the frustration with the off switch. People are needing the unit to comeback on in the early morning when the sun 🌞 comes out. As in the the battery goes dead over night and will self start charging again. This may be in the programming. I would suggest that you look to the program for the BMS.
That battery must have a soft starting Capacitor that gets charged by the solar panels due to the back feed from the charger. When you have the battery OFF, and you give it the Go pedal you're running off the capacitor. That's my guess. I think the system is pretty good though besides. I'm thinking what I could do for my 48V G22 cart since it will need batts soon. Thanks for sharing.
I like it. The extra solar panel could also act as a sun visor out front. James, If you park in the shade, would the power button disconnect to the battery?
Love the content on your Channel I have a 2020 Winnebago micro Minnie 2306. 6 months ago I had the roof resealed only to discover yesterday where the ladder is it seems as though under the rubber roof material there's a giant hole, the rubber is still intact but is this a common thing you've encountered with these winnebagos?
HIGH VOLTAGE: James, I enjoy your videos, but I'm surprised no one has mentioned or that you have considered that you are running a potential 66 volts through the wires that pass (conveniently) through the tubular steel frame to the charge controller. If you have chafing where the wires enter and exit the frame and the wires short on the frame, the user and passengers may be exposed to a potential of 66 volts when they grab the grab bars ... enough to kill, especially if an older user has a weak heart (often typical golf cart owners). You could accidentally turn this into a shockingly hot golf cart. It would seem much safer to add another solar panel and re-wire into two pairs. Eg, two sets of paralleled panels wired in series (or vice versa). That would reduce the max voltage to 44 volts, a much safer level, but still enough to comfortably charge a 36 volt battery. It's really bad practice to run unprotected wires through conductive channel on a moving, bumpy vehicle when they carry dangerous voltage potential. If the wires are protected, it's still a risk that it's a bad idea to take. I'd also add a cut off switch up high near the panels so they can be easily isolated, and high voltage warnings on the wires and the charge controller to alert any future users to take care when touching the wires or manipulating them when the sun is shining. Be careful creating more than 50 volts.
you need a PV disconnect switch (not a breaker). If you keep up plugging the PV MC4 connector you will short it out. The are not made to handle the arc that DC puts out.
it is rated for use below -10 but cannot charge below freezing, but you could add a heater for it to sit on which I think is better than an intergrated one if the pad were to break
Agree, seems like a great solution for golf carts in the desert southwest!
Nice build and follow up, James. I would add a cutoff switch for disconnecting the solar panels from the controller. That will allow the battery to shut down..I always understood it was bad for the controller to have the panels connected without a battery hooked up so, disconnecting the panels would be better for the controller and solve the battery shutdown issue too. For aesthetics, a toggle switch on the dash with a relay under the seat.
Awesome! Next please install the beverage refrigerator, surround sound, grill and ball finder. 🙂🎉
Great job. I'm sure the customer is ecstatic. Thanks Don
Thank you Don!
Thanks for the update. Another great gob.
Well done. And I have a history of not being shy about saying when I would have done things differently.
Adjustable brackets to maximize solar panel sun exposure when parked would be a nice touch.
Very nice. Thank you James. Happy trails!
Finally! Been waiting to see Part II!! Great job on the solar panels! Clean panels would charge faster, it's been proven by Tito RV guy, I think it was him... Anyway, I like it! Find a place on the Dash to put a Big Red Battery Disconnect switch on it! lol
Cool design for sure! Seems like the BMS is set to auto turn on for charging maybe or wake up feature when it sees an input voltage? I know my SOK battery was shipped with the BMS turned off until it saw a proper input voltage to wake it up. When I think of golfers, I think of people concerned with aesthetics. Maybe adding a mesh to the sides and a nice lightbar/speakers/air scoop on the front to spruce it up and bet and you would be in business with golfers. I would add a water misting fan next to the windshield and a water tank with pump and maybe a small fridge since you have all that extra power.
There's so much space now under the seat it's just missing a nice 12VDC beer cooler!
Great job thanks for the follow up
Nice setup, James 👌
I like it. But you will need disconnect for the solar panels. Easy install as you know. I want one of these.
I really thought that was the way to go.
Nice. Looks like it would be a fun project.
It was!
Thanks for the info from this setup.
Like telepathy I was thinking James hasn't posted in a while . I look at my subscriptions and wahlah AZExpert appears
The aluminum structure is fine and looks good for use! The 20/20 is a good idea the hole in the tube is just a perfect location. Thumbs up 👍
You drive this one 😂😂😂😂😂 with all the running around did you ever get the battery low? I’m thinking you will need to add an additional cutoff for the solar panels. But it’s not overcharging is it?
I can understand the frustration with the off switch. People are needing the unit to comeback on in the early morning when the sun 🌞 comes out. As in the the battery goes dead over night and will self start charging again. This may be in the programming. I would suggest that you look to the program for the BMS.
the battery never dies overnight and stays fully charged, its just annoying. the green light is very bright
@ I would check the BMS program to see if it has any auto restart features.
That battery must have a soft starting Capacitor that gets charged by the solar panels due to the back feed from the charger. When you have the battery OFF, and you give it the Go pedal you're running off the capacitor. That's my guess.
I think the system is pretty good though besides. I'm thinking what I could do for my 48V G22 cart since it will need batts soon.
Thanks for sharing.
I wish you all the best in your solar golf cart conversion.
I like it. The extra solar panel could also act as a sun visor out front.
James, If you park in the shade, would the power button disconnect to the battery?
at night yes
Love the content on your Channel I have a 2020 Winnebago micro Minnie 2306. 6 months ago I had the roof resealed only to discover yesterday where the ladder is it seems as though under the rubber roof material there's a giant hole, the rubber is still intact but is this a common thing you've encountered with these winnebagos?
The E-Z-Go battery supplier called. They want you to take this video down.
HIGH VOLTAGE: James, I enjoy your videos, but I'm surprised no one has mentioned or that you have considered that you are running a potential 66 volts through the wires that pass (conveniently) through the tubular steel frame to the charge controller. If you have chafing where the wires enter and exit the frame and the wires short on the frame, the user and passengers may be exposed to a potential of 66 volts when they grab the grab bars ... enough to kill, especially if an older user has a weak heart (often typical golf cart owners). You could accidentally turn this into a shockingly hot golf cart. It would seem much safer to add another solar panel and re-wire into two pairs. Eg, two sets of paralleled panels wired in series (or vice versa). That would reduce the max voltage to 44 volts, a much safer level, but still enough to comfortably charge a 36 volt battery. It's really bad practice to run unprotected wires through conductive channel on a moving, bumpy vehicle when they carry dangerous voltage potential. If the wires are protected, it's still a risk that it's a bad idea to take. I'd also add a cut off switch up high near the panels so they can be easily isolated, and high voltage warnings on the wires and the charge controller to alert any future users to take care when touching the wires or manipulating them when the sun is shining. Be careful creating more than 50 volts.
The insulation on these wires is very thick and i did round the holes to prevent chafing
you need a PV disconnect switch (not a breaker). If you keep up plugging the PV MC4 connector you will short it out. The are not made to handle the arc that DC puts out.
James, investors will be knocking on your door when you invent vehicle body panels that absorb sunlight and run 100% off solar.
I want one
They added the feature you lament to keep alternator from burning up, the bigger ask from the world of users
which feature?
Definitely would have gone with 4 panels atop.
You should try two 200 watt panels.
The sizes are a bit too big and I needed the higher voltage for the Mppt controller
I'd love to have you upgrade my RV batteries don't like lead acid batteries anymore
Nice.....like
How many bags can it carry? I don’t see a way to get any clubs on there…
It would need a sling
I would take off the plastic roof. Find one huge panel to fit the roof frame and use it as the roof.
The array is not weatherproof like the plastic roof
If you are worried about the panels melting the roof of the cart what happens to an RV roof when they are mounted real close to the roof?
That's why I don't use flexible panels on anything but metal RV roofs
Please cut a 1/4” off the front solar panel supports!
I don't think I will
1/2'' for that hot rod look. lol
Why ever turn the battery off?
the manufacture says too, but I agree with you
🏁🏆🏌🏽♂
Please report how the lithium battery works when it sits overnight in 40d temps
it is rated for use below -10 but cannot charge below freezing, but you could add a heater for it to sit on which I think is better than an intergrated one if the pad were to break
Install a fake Tesla charger port on the fender!
That is a funny idea