Lyman 5th Edition Shotshell Reloading Handbook is a great resource with excellent illustrations of many common hulls. I have a bucket full of Remington Peters RXP hulls from way back in my skeet shooting days that I'm reloading with slugs. Today's equivalent to the RXP is the Remington STS Premier (Gun Club & Game Load), a single piece tapered design, very durable.
A caveat when reloading Federal hulls which have the paper base wad. Load them once and toss them. After about two reloads the base wad tends to separate. You may find it further up in the hull or you may find it in your Barrel.
I have loaded a lot of junk fed hulls half a dozen times and have yet to have a base wad fail ever. Usually the head splits after several resizes then i toss them. I only load .410 though so that may be a reason i have diff results
@@donaldatkinson7937 I shoot several cases through my bobwhite, and my benelli ethos Cordoba. I just do not reload range ammo for it but do reload 18g/cc tungsten for them.
If you shoot any kind of volume, it's definitely worth it. Especially if you're into buckshot or slugs; the savings on those two types of ammunition in particular is just astounding.
I’ve reloaded super target hulls. They are the same as Universals. They load well in 12 gauge as well. They won’t last as long as the good AA’s, but the early loads do load very nice.
Good info. I stocked up on the virgin factory primed blue "mystery" (Rio) hulls that American Reloading was carrying. They cost me ~4 cents each. Rio hulls have some quirks (base wad design. primer diameter), but straight wall hulls are more forgiving than tapered base hulls. I also use non-standard components such as the "Fiocchi" FCFWA12H27 wads that Grafs and Powder Valley sell (Lee 7/8 oz slugs fit perfectly), so there's no published load data for my component selection, just data for similar components that works very well for the "Fio" wads. I don't think I'd try it in tapered hulls.
Seems to me the two-piece design has an important advantage. It can use different plastics for the base and the main body. A harder base would be more durable while a softer hull would tolerate repeated crimping better.
I’d bet that all single, one-piece hulls have a taper, as without a taper (called ‘draft’ in injection molding terms) the new hulls would not eject from the injection mold at time of manufacture.
I load those Federal paper based hulls with tapered wads (WAA12, WT-12). I put a piece of tissue paper under the wad to seal it against the powder. Seems to work just fine for me.
If you look inside with a light you should be able to see it separate from the case wall. Typically it will present as a curled edge or small space between the two with carbon inside.
@@TATVCanada I have also sometimes slight indications of burn through at the top of the base. I am not sure if it indicates separation is starting but I through them out.
It really, really is. It's astounding to think how much research and development it's taken to get us from blasting lead balls with black powder to aerodynamic alloy slugs with smokeless propellants.
I’m very intrigued by shotshell reloading that I’m actually gonna start soon, what wads would you recommend for Winchester AA hulls 2 3/4 and what shot. Gonna buy mec 600jr but no videos explain a good shot or where to buy. Thank you.
It is well to say "inspect" when it is cut in half, but then you can't load them. How do you inspect without cutting g in half? How can you see inside the bottom of the shell?
Typically if you look down inside you can a pretty good idea of the basewad condition; however if you're having a hard time (or it's really filthy) just use a penlight. I actually have a desklamp on my reloading bench for this exact purpose; it works great.
Inspection is very important with the coiled paper base wads. My club burns the Federal paper base wad hulls so I can get as many as I can carry off. I make it a point to only get hulls shot the same day that I know were never rained on. Wet paper base wads have 2 hazards. 1. The moisture can cause duds and bloopers. 2. The wad can tear out and lodge in your barrel. The next round could bulge your shot gun barrel. If you destroy a double gun repairs are very expensive. Since I get the paper base wad hulls free in unlimited numbers I use them in my autoloaders and pumps when I shoot skeet. I only reload them once and they are ejected on the ground. I do not leave expensive hulls on the ground and I don't have to pick them up. For skeet shooting my hull cost is zero.
If you can find them, get the original uniform (one-piece), either Winchester AA (not the AA HS made today that can be easily recognized by tiny ribs on the outside of the shell), Activ, or the ones made today, the Remington STS/RXP, or Gun Club. As long as you treat those hulls right, you should easily get ten reloads out of each one.
After over 40 years of loading 12ga, Winchester Double A load better than other hulls. Depending hot hot the load is, I can get 5-6 reloads out of them.
In my experience they’re too finicky. I reload STS and Nitro 27 hulls. Haven’t had a single issue to date getting my press set up with them. For whatever reason the AA hulls give me a lot of trouble.
So, as a newbie, I'm looking for a "one piece plastic straight walled hull" like the Winchester AA Plus? Can you give me advise as to where to buy them, and wads and powder? thanks, love the channel :)
Whenever possible one-piece's are my preferred hull, yes. Other than your local gun store, your best bet is probably gun shows. Depending on where you live they can be had fairly reasonably. Alternatively if you live in the US you can buy them from Ballistic Products Inc. You may also like their brand new (and primed) Federals.
One piece straight wall hull = Federal gold medal. Should be available at wal-mart for about $8 a box. Don't buy the 100 round value pack they are 2 piece hulls.
Actually a slug load will create less pressure than the equivalent weight of shot because shot will compress and widen upon ignition causing more pressure against the chamber wall.
Remington STS, and NITROS... one piece taper hulls.. new High Over Alls are made by Remington and are the same as STS hulls... or go for Winchester AAs...
Yes you can reload estate hulls. They are two piece, straight wall. It takes some experimenting as there are no published loads. But I’m using PT1205 wads to make 3/4oz loads. Please note, they are only really good for three or four uses before they start failing.
@@darrelljohnson7832 Yes reload them as you would a Federal hull that has the same basewad. Fed12S0 are a perfect fit for 7/8 and also the Lee keyed 7/8 slug.
@@TATVCanada - I found one place to buy Remington 28 ga hulls, after a long search. www.3on8supplies.com/-hulls.html From my readings, folks contend that Remington hulls will endure less reloads than WinAA hulls. I'm thinking that I don't shoot that much, and so I'll go with the Remington hulls, and when they wear out, buy more. I don't know about Fiocchi, www.midwayusa.com/product/1013131793?pid=493146 or Cheddite hulls.www.midwayusa.com/product/1013111039?pid=513815
Ive got a lot of 28 gauge AA, the real AAs, friend of mine who was a high level skeet shooter, reloaded these on a 600 mec. He sold literally 10s of thousands of shells over the years at the range with never a hiccup. He had a shot machine, and these are loaded with magnum #8 shot, wheel weights. If someone buys them all, I would sell them for $4.00 per box, the components are worth that much.i bought everything when he quit reloading, and don't shoot 28.
I've never used Fiocchi before; but yes WinAA's and Remington's are probably my favorite. I've begun experimenting with the transparent Federal one-piece hulls, so far they're pretty consistent. Have you ever tried Cheddite at all?
Metal is stronger than plastic, sure they are reloaded the same and can function the same , Google 12 ga from Hell rob garrick took a 50 bmg fireformed case then threaded on rim ! The case is 3.850" long!
I've always said, to be alive, you have to learn something every day. I'm still alive! Thanks!
My pleasure.
Lyman 5th Edition Shotshell Reloading Handbook is a great resource with excellent illustrations of many common hulls. I have a bucket full of Remington Peters RXP hulls from way back in my skeet shooting days that I'm reloading with slugs. Today's equivalent to the RXP is the Remington STS Premier (Gun Club & Game Load), a single piece tapered design, very durable.
Thank you. This was very straightforward, and good info. Cheers.
Glad it was helpful.
I am reloading for many years but learn so many new things. Thanks for great video
Glad you found it useful.
A caveat when reloading Federal hulls which have the paper base wad.
Load them once and toss them. After about two reloads the base wad tends to separate. You may find it further up in the hull or you may find it in your Barrel.
I have loaded a lot of junk fed hulls half a dozen times and have yet to have a base wad fail ever. Usually the head splits after several resizes then i toss them. I only load .410 though so that may be a reason i have diff results
@@eduffy4937 do you shoot 28?
@@donaldatkinson7937 I shoot several cases through my bobwhite, and my benelli ethos Cordoba. I just do not reload range ammo for it but do reload 18g/cc tungsten for them.
Thanks for the info. I don't reload shotshells yet but I have access to tons of them so maybe i'll start collecting.
If you shoot any kind of volume, it's definitely worth it. Especially if you're into buckshot or slugs; the savings on those two types of ammunition in particular is just astounding.
I'm looking to buy some 28 gauge hulls. You selling them?
This channel is dope
Thanks.
Never loaded any 12ga universal hulls. But in a 20ga universal hull is a very good hull to load. And can be reloaded several times.
I’ve reloaded super target hulls. They are the same as Universals. They load well in 12 gauge as well. They won’t last as long as the good AA’s, but the early loads do load very nice.
Good info.
I stocked up on the virgin factory primed blue "mystery" (Rio) hulls that American Reloading was carrying. They cost me ~4 cents each. Rio hulls have some quirks (base wad design. primer diameter), but straight wall hulls are more forgiving than tapered base hulls. I also use non-standard components such as the "Fiocchi" FCFWA12H27 wads that Grafs and Powder Valley sell (Lee 7/8 oz slugs fit perfectly), so there's no published load data for my component selection, just data for similar components that works very well for the "Fio" wads. I don't think I'd try it in tapered hulls.
The Lee keyed slugs in a Fed12S0 wad fit best in Federal and Estate hulls and allow for a good crimp.
Seems to me the two-piece design has an important advantage. It can use different plastics for the base and the main body. A harder base would be more durable while a softer hull would tolerate repeated crimping better.
I’d bet that all single, one-piece hulls have a taper, as without a taper (called ‘draft’ in injection molding terms) the new hulls would not eject from the injection mold at time of manufacture.
I load those Federal paper based hulls with tapered wads (WAA12, WT-12). I put a piece of tissue paper under the wad to seal it against the powder. Seems to work just fine for me.
Why not just use straight-walled wads and forego the tissue?
I do the same thing. A WAA12 wad may be of a more suitable height than say the Federal equivalent and allow for a better crimp.
Great video!
Thank you sir.
how can you tell if the two-part base wad is separated from the main hull without cutting into it as you did in your demonstration?
If you look inside with a light you should be able to see it separate from the case wall. Typically it will present as a curled edge or small space between the two with carbon inside.
@@TATVCanada I have also sometimes slight indications of burn through at the top of the base. I am not sure if it indicates separation is starting but I through them out.
Good info for beginners, but even skilled reloader can pick a good idea or even two :)
Glad you found it interesting.
Holly smokes Batman! Shotshell reloading is a whole science on its own 😮
It really, really is. It's astounding to think how much research and development it's taken to get us from blasting lead balls with black powder to aerodynamic alloy slugs with smokeless propellants.
I’m very intrigued by shotshell reloading that I’m actually gonna start soon, what wads would you recommend for Winchester AA hulls 2 3/4 and what shot. Gonna buy mec 600jr but no videos explain a good shot or where to buy. Thank you.
Your best bet is to review some published load data such as a Lyman's manual. Alternatively you can check out Hodgons online data resource.
Very good video!
Glad you liked it!
It is well to say "inspect" when it is cut in half, but then you can't load them. How do you inspect without cutting g in half? How can you see inside the bottom of the shell?
Typically if you look down inside you can a pretty good idea of the basewad condition; however if you're having a hard time (or it's really filthy) just use a penlight. I actually have a desklamp on my reloading bench for this exact purpose; it works great.
It helps it you have already de-primed the hull.
Inspection is very important with the coiled paper base wads. My club burns the Federal paper base wad hulls so I can get as many as I can carry off. I make it a point to only get hulls shot the same day that I know were never rained on. Wet paper base wads have 2 hazards.
1. The moisture can cause duds and bloopers.
2. The wad can tear out and lodge in your barrel. The next round could bulge your shot gun barrel. If you destroy a double gun repairs are very expensive.
Since I get the paper base wad hulls free in unlimited numbers I use them in my autoloaders and pumps when I shoot skeet. I only reload them once and they are ejected on the ground. I do not leave expensive hulls on the ground and I don't have to pick them up. For skeet shooting my hull cost is zero.
If you can find them, get the original uniform (one-piece), either Winchester AA (not the AA HS made today that can be easily recognized by tiny ribs on the outside of the shell), Activ, or the ones made today, the Remington STS/RXP, or Gun Club.
As long as you treat those hulls right, you should easily get ten reloads out of each one.
After over 40 years of loading 12ga, Winchester Double A load better than other hulls. Depending hot hot the load is, I can get 5-6 reloads out of them.
In my experience they’re too finicky. I reload STS and Nitro 27 hulls. Haven’t had a single issue to date getting my press set up with them. For whatever reason the AA hulls give me a lot of trouble.
Do the Winchester AA hulls use straight or tapered wads?
@@michaelrebman5498 straight
Great info!
Thank you very much.
So, as a newbie, I'm looking for a "one piece plastic straight walled hull" like the Winchester AA Plus? Can you give me advise as to where to buy them, and wads and powder? thanks, love the channel :)
Whenever possible one-piece's are my preferred hull, yes. Other than your local gun store, your best bet is probably gun shows. Depending on where you live they can be had fairly reasonably. Alternatively if you live in the US you can buy them from Ballistic Products Inc. You may also like their brand new (and primed) Federals.
One piece straight wall hull = Federal gold medal. Should be available at wal-mart for about $8 a box. Don't buy the 100 round value pack they are 2 piece hulls.
this was very helpful. thank you. :)
Glad it was helpful!
Actually a slug load will create less pressure than the equivalent weight of shot because shot will compress and widen upon ignition causing more pressure against the chamber wall.
I've heard conflicting opinions on this, but will be testing it myself this Spring.
Remington STS, and NITROS... one piece taper hulls.. new High Over Alls are made by Remington and are the same as STS hulls... or go for Winchester AAs...
Remington STS, Nitro, Gun Club, and Field & Clays is all you need to know. Winchester compression formed isn't made any more.
Ok can I reload once fired estate shells
I don't have any, but if you find a manual that calls for it, sure.
Yes you can reload estate hulls. They are two piece, straight wall. It takes some experimenting as there are no published loads. But I’m using PT1205 wads to make 3/4oz loads. Please note, they are only really good for three or four uses before they start failing.
@@darrelljohnson7832 Yes reload them as you would a Federal hull that has the same basewad.
Fed12S0 are a perfect fit for 7/8 and also the Lee keyed 7/8 slug.
I'm looking to buy some 28 gauge hulls. Who is selling them?
No clue.
@@TATVCanada - I found one place to buy Remington 28 ga hulls, after a long search.
www.3on8supplies.com/-hulls.html
From my readings, folks contend that Remington hulls will endure less reloads than WinAA hulls.
I'm thinking that I don't shoot that much, and so I'll go with the Remington hulls, and when they wear out, buy more.
I don't know about Fiocchi, www.midwayusa.com/product/1013131793?pid=493146
or Cheddite hulls.www.midwayusa.com/product/1013111039?pid=513815
Ballistic products inc.
Ive got a lot of 28 gauge AA, the real AAs, friend of mine who was a high level skeet shooter, reloaded these on a 600 mec. He sold literally 10s of thousands of shells over the years at the range with never a hiccup. He had a shot machine, and these are loaded with magnum #8 shot, wheel weights. If someone buys them all, I would sell them for $4.00 per box, the components are worth that much.i bought everything when he quit reloading, and don't shoot 28.
@@donaldatkinson7937 ~ Thanks for the offer, but I'm fully stocked with shotshells.
2:43 hmmm i don't how a base wad could ever separate and travel down the barrel. The powder burn pushes against the wad in the other direction
Don't know what to tell you, it happens.
I've had it happen with paper base wads in Federal hulls. It has to do with the inertia after firing.
@@jungleno. the inertia is pushing the base wad the other direction though, "deeper" into the shotshell
@@thaton3guy100 you arguing what "SHOULD" happen against what "HAS" happened. Logic doesn't always prevail.
Winchester AA are good, and Remington hulls (the green boys) are good. Fioccis and federals do okay. Some federals and winchesters are crud.
I've never used Fiocchi before; but yes WinAA's and Remington's are probably my favorite. I've begun experimenting with the transparent Federal one-piece hulls, so far they're pretty consistent. Have you ever tried Cheddite at all?
Metal is stronger than plastic, sure they are reloaded the same and can function the same , Google 12 ga from Hell rob garrick took a 50 bmg fireformed case then threaded on rim ! The case is 3.850" long!
Basic rule for inspecting hulls: hulls are cheap. Shotguns, and more so hands and eyes, are very much *NOT* cheap.
The information is great but the background noise sucks.
UUID’s C