Making a Drill Jig for Watchmaking - Watchmaking Vlog 34
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- Опубліковано 27 лис 2019
- Today on this watchmaking vlog episode 34 - I plan out and start to make a drill jig. This jig will enable to locate and drill the holes for the alignment pins and screws of the watch plate, dramatically increasing the speed at which I can produce the watch bridges.
I don’t have a big vice anymore, so I had to make do with clamping the precision ground flat stock my bench with a woodworkers clamp. Hand sawing definitely has it’s challenges, and it took up most of the night. Next time I’m in the workshop I will continue working on this.
Also looking for some feedback from some toolmakers to see if I’m on the right path.
Never Give Up!
Thanks for watching.
Dean DK
Scribe a deep line with a carbide point on both sides of the stock, it will help getting the cut straight.
Paddy
Thanks Paddy appreciate it, I will try it next time 😁
I believe making a fixture of some type will definitely help repeatability in the process. I've spent some time trying figure out something that will fulfill your requirements....I got nothing. I understand completely what you want to do, I just no ideas that would contribute anything useful. I will say this, from my experience and what I learned working with "old school" toolmakers, O1 tool steel will move quite a bit after hardening. If hardening will help your fixture, A2 tool steel has the least amount of movement in the hardening process. I have to say, allowing us to watch this process with you step by step is better than anything I can watch on Netflix! Maybe you should talk to Netflix and start a mini series...lol! We are enjoying your journey Dean, nearly as much as you.
Thanks, no worries at all. That was super helpful, I did not know that about A2 tool steel. Wow thats so amazing to hear Scott, I really appreciate it and adds so much more fuel to the fire. Huge thank you 😀
What i typically do when it comes to handsawing sheet stock is to clamp it on top of the table. Then i saw at about 20 degrees to the plate, along the flat side. That way the plate doesnt vibrate at all. Is also easier to keep the cut straight that way.
Thanks watching and the tip, I will try that next time
Stopped the video and measured the screen: The cut was 2.75 measuring points / 6.65 measuring points = 41.3534% through.
BWHAHA thank you so much Alper, what a champion! Damnnn I thought I was on the money!😀👍
Thank you for uploading so much recently. It is nice to see I am not the only one having issues. I work on clocks so its a little different but its great to see your progress and way to do things.
Thanks so much for watching and your support. That's very cool to know you work on clocks. Overcoming adversity is the best feeling, always strive and never give up Ken. Wish you all the best!
This was torture to watch. Do you have a saw table for your lathe? That and a jewelers slotting saw would make quick work of cutting the squares.
Thanks James! Unfortunately it's none to the above. I will definitely look at getting some cutting machines soon.
looks like fun always a good time with a hacksaw
Thanks John, I find you really find yourself in these situations.
I also use a hacksaw, hardwork sometimes. look forward to your future episodes and developement. Nicely done! I would go with not hardening it as it might warp and need regrinding to make it precission flat again. I suppose you could then wet and dry it on a surface plate ? good luck with all you do.
Thanks Tinker. Really appreciate your suggestion. Lets see how will this turn out.
It is in my opinion 43.64585697709457463452836589356% through the ground stock.
Hahahah, thanks Paul 😁
Man, that's brutal I would use an angle grinder with a cutting disk and take it easy don't get it too hot.
And schedule all your cutting at a time to not pis off your neighbors.
Play safe From Elliot Lake Ontario Canada.
Haha thanks Scott. Yes I definitely need to manage my cutting better, thanks for watching
Proxxon MBS. It's crap for any steel over 3mm though. But for the thickness you're dealing with there and with a bi-metal blad I Think you'd be set.
Hmmm I will look into it. Thanks Karl 😁
I like your fixture design. you may consider hardening the top plate or making hardened bushings to press into the holes.because when drilling the brass the drill might waller out the pilot hole in the top plate.by the way I like the smell of dykum in the morning
thanks Pete Petewerks
HAhaha thanks Pete! Hmm I will definitely take you advice in have some sort of harden jig. Thanks 😀
If you're going to use a drill jig for production runs, you should consider using hardened drill guide bushings. Here's an example ua-cam.com/video/PjHfYFtm7eU/v-deo.html Good videos. Bill
Hi Revgro, thanks for the advice. I had saw some, I think I will look at trying to make some of my own! I am now convinced I need something hardened to guide the drill. Thanks so much