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Walking the River Fleet - Lost Rivers of London (4K)
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- Опубліковано 14 лис 2020
- Walking the River Fleet - Lost Rivers of London with John Rogers
Support my channel on Patreon / johnrogers
A walk along London’s most famous, notorious and mysterious lost river - The River Fleet. Starting at Parliament Hill on Hampstead Heath we pass the Hampstead tumulus on the way to one of the two sources of the Fleet at the Vale of Health. We follow the Fleet as it gurgles across the Heath feeding the Hampstead Ponds. The other source of the Fleet rises in Ken Wood before feeding the Highgate Ponds and meandering through Dartmouth Park and Tufnell Park to Kentish Town.
The Fleet departs the Heath at South End Green and we trace the course along Fleet Road to Gospel Oak and Anglers Lane in Kentish Town. The river flows beneath Kentish Town Road, the two branches combining near Quinn's Pub, before it crosses Camden Road. In Lyme Street we get our first sighting of the Fleet beneath ground, or rather a smell wafting up through the street iron.
The river continues more of less along the line of Pancras Road and past St. Pancras Old Church, a location rich with stories and the site of Roman remains that some claim could be one of the oldest places of Christian worship in the world. The course of the river takes us past Kings Cross Station and into St. Chad's Place where the shape of the river is visible.
Our River Fleet walk leads us along Kings Cross Road to the site of Bagnigge Wells, a notorious 17th and 18th Century pleasure garden which grew up around a spring beside the Fleet.
We turn into Cubitt Street and then into Phoenix Place, as the Fleet beckons us into Warner Street where we can clearly see and hear the river beneath the street irons. "One writer, Mr J.G Waller points out that the holes that gave the Saxon name to the Holebourne are still marked by the sites of Hockley-in-the-hole now Ray Street Clerkenwell-and Black Mary's Hole, Bagnigge Wells."
Springs, Streams and Spas of London History and Associations Alfred Stanley Foord, 1910
The final street of the River Fleet walk goes along Farringdon Road, with a detour into Farringdon Lane to visit the site of the Clerks Well, and to the famous One Tun pub in Saffron Hill that features in Oliver Twist by Charles Dickens.
The Fleet makes its confluence with the Thames at Blackfriars Bridge where this walk ends.
List of sources
The History of London by Walter Besant (1893)
The Lost Rivers of London by Nicholas Barton (1962)
The Fields Beneath by Gillian Tindall (1977)
Some Lost Rivers of London by Alan Ivimey in Wonderful London (1926)
The Northern Heights of London by William Howitt (1869)
London the Biography by Peter Ackroyd (2000)
Old London’s Spas, Baths, and Wells by Septimus Sunderland (1915)
Springs, Streams and Spas of London History and Associations by Alfred Stanley Foord (1910)
Where To See And Hear The Hidden River Fleet by Tom Bolton, Londonist londonist.com/2016/09/where-t...
Music
Enochian Magic by JR Tundra
Length of Light by Amulets
A Slow Dream by Emily A. Sprague
Amber - VYEN
Little Drunk Quiet Floats by Puddle of Infinity
Pachabelly by Huma-Huma
Waltz of the Flowers by Tchaikovsky
Wandering and Floating by Au.Ra
filmed on 8th November 2020
Watch - Walking the River Rom • Walking the River Rom ...
Walking the Lost River Peck | London's Lost Rivers • Walking the Lost River...
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In the 1970s, I lived in Kentish Town and often wandered around these streets. For a time, I worked as a 'flusher' - one of the guys who keep the sewers flowing efficiently. On several occasions, I waded through the waters of the Fleet along Sir Joseph Bazalgette's large and very impressive Victorian tunnel.
John, you need a slot on TV, something like Countryfile or local Radio. This stuff is so interesting and said in such easy way. I’ve driven these roads hundreds of times, know the street names and locations, even the dips in the road, and yet never knew it was the course of a river. Well done. 👍🏼👍🏼👏🏼👏🏼
many thanks for that Steve - a slot on Countryfile would be a dream
A petition! John's an undiscovered star, no question. His gentle understated joy would be balm to a nation's soul. We need him.
@@JohnRogersWalks you would be great on countryfile
I love John's videos. He gives you just enough to inspire you to walk the routes and find out more. And his delivery is just right.
I think a spot on The One Show would be really good. Honestly, I can see it in my mind. It would be a perfect fit.
That was more like a history documentary that would be on BBC4 than a walking video. You must have done so much research for this one...both mythlogical, fiction and factual information. So many references in there. I learnt lots. Thanks, John. Ps: I walked the section of Ermine street where you imagined the Syrian Roman legion trudging today!
Very interesting, I worked as a pumping engineer around London and have seen the fleet as it passes through bloomsbury square underground car park, I have also seen it under blackfriars bridge and stood on the Thames embankment at low tide and seen where it flows into the Thames.
Thanks again John for a wonderful and very informative video. My Father worked in the newspaper industry for his entire life and only now I know why the street he worked in was called Fleet street. It is so obvious now! Not only that but I learned so much about London in general. The embarrassing thing is that my son in law is Italian and knew about little Italy and I didn't. 😄
Thanks Robert (Bob) - there's so much to discover. I'll make a video about Little Italy at some point
This video was SO worth waiting for. It is SO interesting. I do feel sorry for the Fleet and all the other lost rivers. Looking forward to the walks that you suggested. Thank you John.
Many thanks Christine. You're right - we really have mistreated our urban rivers for many years and still doing so even to those that flow above ground such as the Lea, Roding and Brent
I love the lost rivers of London, something quite mystical about the Fleet.
Hi John
Just found your channel - just my cup of tea!
As a born and bred Hampsteader this was a treat. For the Highgate branch you can see a pipe the river flows in on the footbridge linking York Rise and Ingestre road. I'm sure you know that but thought people might be interested
wonderful stuff Radders - glad you found the channel and thanks for the notes on the Highgate branch of the river
I’ve yet to see a video taking in the former iron spring at Well Walk, in Hampstead, at the start of the Fleet, but all the way down to St Pancras Old Church, too, the river was fed by such springs, long since mostly dried up.
It’s how Hampstead became a noted settlement because visitors from the City believed that springwater had health-giving properties and folk would buy bottles in nearby shops - hence The Flask, and Flask Walk - to take the water home. There’s a fountain where dogs drink at the top of the Highgate Ponds and at the foot of Kenwood House that is stained with iron oxide that clearly comes from such a spring. (I think Geoff Marshall has a vid on the GOBLIN branch of the Overground showing where the Fleet runs in a pipe over the tracks.) Hampstead also had its share of breweries exploiting this water too.
It’s also worth mentioning the famous toll post at Spaniards Inn, constantly frustrating to drivers, and places like Swain’s Lane (swines’) over the other side at Highgate. The Bishop of London made his dough from such posts, because for centuries it was at the Fleet that the flocks being driven down from the home countries, for slaughter at Smithfield, to feed the City, were watered.
Lovely footage, smashing walk.
I've always cycled for transport and have found that the river valleys are very memorable, especially the Fleet, thank you for sewing together what I didn't know I already knew.
glad you enjoyed the video Steve
@@JohnRogersWalks very much so, lots of memorable locations that I have freewheeled down into then struggled back up out of. 😁
The Fleet has always been part of the sewage system and it still is .thanks for showing where all the dung flows
Thank you! A thoroughly enjoyable 40+ minutes how the streets of my childhood at the beginning of your walk have changed. I grew up on the Highgate side of the fleet and in the 70's it's course was painted on the road in blue along York Rise
Born in croftdown road right opposite York rise 1967. Remember the flood in 1975 when the fleet/ sewer came pumping up through the drains flooding York rise.
@@dave-si1vq Grew up and lived in Croftdown rd opposite Brookfield school in the 70's
@@Fishing4Pleasure what a small world!!! Hope your doing well mate.
Cheers John for this, what an excellent walk, I will be doing this one for sure. The books you mentioned all look brilliant too, you must have a fantastic London library. There are a couple of roads leading down to Farringdon Road which echo the course of The Fleet. Seacoal Lane, where barges would unload their cargo. Another was Turn Again Lane, which was so steep that carts could not get back up once they'd descended, or so the story goes. Your insight and knowledge have inspired me to subscribe to your Patreon feed, thanks again.
Thanks for those notes Jonathan- glad you enjoyed the video, it’s such a great walk to do
Thanks for a really fascinating video. Some years ago I went on a guided walk called "The Lost World of the Fleet River" and on the short piece that we walked (From just north of Holborn Viaduct to Blackfriars) it was very clear to see where the river had flowed. We were also able to see the outlet under Blackfriars Bridge where the Fleet supposedly flows into the Thames. It is something that you can only see when the tide is low.
Absolutely superb. Thank you for a terrific walk.
my pleasure - thanks for watching Sally
What a great way to end my week, watching your travels along the ancient Fleet. Thank you, John.
my pleasure Wayne - many thanks for watching
Another wonderful relaxing escape into old London. Love the imagery and the music as always. Thank you John.
Great walk John another of Londons mistreated rivers so much of interest as you get in to central London I feel there are more walks beckoning ....have you done one on the various wells ?....but my favourite parts are the muddy trickles as the springs emerge.....with ancient memories and have an air of mystery about them which is tangible ..the genius loci driven back to its scource
Stumbled across this video, but what a great stumble it was...loved it so much thankyou
thanks for watching Tony
Really fascinating, thanks so much John, I often find myself Googling references as I watch, I found some really interesting associated 18th and early 19th century engravings etc on Ebay that I may treat myself to. I always look forward to your videos, part of my Sunday rituals now, thanks!
Brilliant thanks Lois. I love getting these videos online for Sunday evening
Always wondered if you'd walk the course of the River Fleet- and now you have! Wonderful video.
Wonderful walk John. Lovely to see little glimpses of the river. Really look forward to your walks on Sunday evening.
thanks Jacqueline - I do everything I can to get these videos online for a Sunday evening
great episode.
Another fantastic video (as always) to start to start the week off.
thanks very much John
Epic walk John Roger's on top form, I know so many of these locations from living/working in London just never joined the dots my eyes finally see.
many thanks TTv
Really enjoying your videos, which I've recently discovered. However, the Angler's Lane connection is a bit perplexing. The oldest map I could find (easily) is an OS Street Plan, purportedly of 1851, on which what is now Angler's Lane is shown as Alma Road. The date of the plan must be wrong as most of the nearby streets have names related to the Crimean War and that didn't start until 1853, with the Battle of Alma in 1854. On the OS map of 1873 it's Angler's Lane. Maybe it was a pre-existing lane known as Angler's Lane that was renamed in honour of the Crimean War, perhaps when other streets in the area were being developed, but later reverted to its original name? As an aside, I noticed that on the 1873 map the large former industrial building on Angler's Lane is intriguingly described as a "Tooth Manufactory". Apparently, it was once the largest false teeth factory in Europe and continued to operate there until the 1960s.
Interesting to see your comment regarding the “Tooth Manufactory”. I recall reading somewhere that the retinues which accompanied the troops used to extract the teeth from dead soldiers which they presumably sold on to such places to make early types of dentures. Maybe that’s what the place you mention was doing in those days?
Hopefully, in its later years, it had progressed to making them from other materials.
It's a stream underneath the west side of the british museum running under the Indian gallery I've seen it about two meters wide running north south.
What an amazing film John and a journey packed with so many interesting references along the way . To imagine that great ancient river making its way from Hampstead under ground through to the Thames and being able to hear and see it was so exciting. I have put 3 books on my Xmas list , yours , Estuary and London’s lost rivers by Paul Talling . 😊👍
Thanks so much Terry - it was such a great walk and fantastic to see the water flowing above ground but then to look down to the subterraen river was really exciting. Thanks for having my book on your list with thos other two great books
Look forward to John's videos..... Very calming, interesting and educational. 👍
thanks Grant
Incredible video John, pure gold
Thanks very much Raj
Great walk John 👍🏼
thanks James
Happy wanderer thanks again for sharing great walk in this time of lockdown SMILES 👍🇬🇧👌
thanks C Gj - glad it could bring some smiles
Hello John, thank you for this walk. A Dane who lived in the UK for 3 years, this quiet enjoyment of British city- and landscape made me yearn to visit that fair isle again. I think I'll have to go soon. Thank you.
Another very informative walk John. I discovered your videos during lockdown and learn something new whenever I watch them. Thank you.
Many thanks Simon - really glad you're enjoying the videos
Hello John, loved the video! I have just watched Tom Bolton, London’s lost rivers, take a walk along the Fleet, underground. It’s “Inside the river Fleet sewer”. By the way, inspired by you, Epping Forrest has become a close friend.
Great stuff Ray, I'll take a look at Tom's video. The Forest is a magical place, wonderful that you've become friends
Just reading Ben Arranovitches False Values,Rivers of London and they just got to the vale of health,which he said was originally a noxious marsh and source of infection, also the site of the Water Fayre and Fairground which I used to go to with my parents as a kid ......great video, cheers John 😎
Ha reading the same book myself at the moment Leslie - considered quoting that passage. Can't believe I didn't mention the Goddess of the Fleet - will have to go and pay tribute now
Should say Whitsun Fayre, damn autocorrect !!!!
Happy to join you on this walk along the Fleet John! Glad to see there’s still some liveliness in London despite lockdown. So many great buildings this walk, especially the pub fronts. All these springs are fascinating, it’s hard to imagine London being a spa town at one point. The zeppelin site was a surprise, it’s easy to forget the first time London was bombed.
Bravo John! Great walk taking in so much of London, brought back many happy memories of my years in London. Thank you
Another great video thanks John
Love the channel although watching from the north east of England I’m fascinated. Thanks John 👍
that's wonderful to hear - thanks Chris
Wow- had a wonderful afternoon watching this amazing video. Fantastically presented and extremely informative. The presenter is a pleasure to watch. Thank you.
Always been very intrigued by route of the Fleet and was very excited that you addressed this one. Thank you very much John for providing another excellent (probably the best in my opinion) travel along the ancient river paths of London. Well done and look forward to more discoveries particularly around the Farringdon area.
thanks very much Michael - really can't believe I've waited this long to walk the entire route
It feels good to walk together through the video. Thank you.👍💕🚶♂️🌷
my pleasure Sabuzac - thanks for coming along
Absolutely brilliant fascinating stuff. I lived around Clerkenwell Road and Lamb's Conduit Street some years ago and so the bits about the Fleet valley at the back of Mount Pleasant were of particular interest. One little gem you missed is Old Seacoal Lane off the east side of Farringdon Street just north of Ludgate Circus. It is now just a very short cul-de-sc service road but as long ago as the 13th century was named after the wharf where ships that brought coal from Newcastle to stoke London's fires tied up on the River Fleet
thanks Chris - I think I know the street you mean, near a set of steep steps up the hill, passed it a few times walking home from the South Bank at night when I worked down there
Another great walk - keep it up. I have worked in Fleet Street for the last 20 years. I frequently walk up to The Angel and Kings Cross through the back streets and although I always had a rough idea of where the Fleet River ran, the additional information in the video is wonderful. I usually look up when I am walking around London but perhaps I should look down more.
Great video, I started googling the Fleet River in central London and started to find the massive Tideway project running along the Thames from Acton to Beckton. A project I wasn't really aware of as a city worker, but fascinating to read about.
I live in the north west and i visit London whenever i can.I find the walks very interesting .Thanks Mr Rogers.
Hi John,
I walked every step with you. It was delightful.
Many thanks,
Carl.
thanks Carl
Lovely! Would like to see the Fleet after a rain. My wife and I miss London. Can't wait to return for the hidden bits
Wow, what a beautiful walk this is...
Thanks Danny - it was a real classic
Thank you for 41 minutes and 56 seconds of wonderful escapism
brilliant - thanks for watching the while film Abdul
I love how you incorporate the myths and legends of London into this video. It made me think of Peter Ackroyd.
Splendid walk, Thanks so much mate.
cheers Boyd - so glad you enjoyed it
@@JohnRogersWalks shame you didn't run into this woman mate: Fleet
Fleet is the Genius loci of the River Fleet and a daughter of Mama Thames. She appears as woman in her 30's, and is said to be built like a sprinter with broad shoulders
follypedia.fandom.com/wiki/Fleet
Fantastic walk John. As a courior in the 90s i questioned all the hills off of Farringdon road. I only found out about the Fleet a couple of years ago. Great walk.
I've just stumbled upon your channel and have fallen in love with your approach to exploring. I'm a wanderer too and adore following historic and natural pathways. I'm going to be adventuring along with you now! Thanks so much.
10:24 just beside the Gypsy Queen pub is a small, run down, fishing tackle shop. The owner’s a lovely chap, told me of a property he remembered having “a hatch” to the fleet at the back of the shop!
I really enjoyed this video. I think I've done much of this walk, but in segments across many years rather than one intentional walk from the Heath down to the Thames. You've inspired me to do it when I can next fly over from America. I'd love to see you do a video of the Little Italy area of Clerkenwell. Happy new year and keep walking!
I was at @10:52 on the RHS of Hampstead's Fleet Road a week or so ago and set in the pavement there is a metal plate telling you that directly underneath your feet lies the River Fleet on its journey to the Thames. It's easy to miss. I've been that way lots of times before but never really noticed the plaque. So they do mark the path with occasional signs on the pavement. I think there's also a similar plaque down on Fleet Street.
Seems strange that in times past they chose to cover up the river with concrete, almost an act of vandalism by today's standards where nowadays they build tunnels under roads for hedgehogs.
But as you say, centuries ago it seems to have become a de facto open sewer so they probably thought nothing of covering it up!
Now you mention it Blutely I think I may have seen it when I worked up that way but somehow I completely missed it on this walk.
Another fantastic educational walk John and if you excuse my ignorance, I had never heard of the Fleet before watching your video even though I worked in that side of London for many years.
thanks Paul - glad I could help illuminate - it was a learning experience for me as well
Ohhh... MAGNIFICENT. This might be my fave apart from your transcendent (to me) rambles around my old South Bucks haunts. This one kills.
thanks so much Grant.
Been looking forward to this upload all week.
hope you enjoy it - sorry it was so late
@@JohnRogersWalks really interesting as always. I'm not sure if was naive but I'd never heard of the subterranean rivers, until I started watching your videos. Love it.
I love the connections you make in your narratives. This walk connects a number of places my ancestors lived and worked. Several of my family were baptised, married, and possibly buried at St. Pancras Old Church. It seems that there was some sympathy shown to non conformists there, and some family names of non conformist neighbours can be found in the chruch rolls. Those who could afford it were buried at Bunhill Fields, where the same pattern of surnames shows up.
One question I have is: do you know of any connection between Cranford and Fleet St, Holbourne? Might there have been an economic activity common to the two places in the late 1600s? Maybe something to do with brewing or fine leather work?
It's amusing to see how your route criss-crossed a recent post by Joolz Guides, yet there was very little repetition between the two videos.
I lived in Kentish town for 40 years and had family who lived their going back 4 generations . Moved to another country but still think of all those wonderful days playing on Hampstead heath . heard many stories about the river fleet thanks great video.
Can’t describe how very valuable this is. I can see it’s a labour of love
Wonderful. Thanks John! ☺️
cheers Rottie
I have just discovered your videos! I have owned the book London Under London (Richard Trench and Ellis Hillman) for almost 30 years and so wonderful to see your joy at following the Fleet. How special to see it bubbling! Thank you 😊
Im always fascinated by the stories of entombed rivers as it has a strong feeling of sadness and loss when a wild waterway is covered over and made subterranean. It then has a feeling of dark legend about them then.
St.Louis,MO has a river , Des Peres, in the south of the city that was early on a free river but was industrialized for running all kinds of mills turbines along stretches of it but then as the need for hydraulic powered mills died out, it became a dump and chemical industries grew up and polluted the river and the increase in population caused sewage to increase into the river also, so at some point they built over the river parts at a time and made it subterranean and channelized it more as was done in London.
They have actually been reclaiming and opening the river back up in different areas and making parks in the old industrial places and having the river open to the surface again. As they have been slowly cleaning up the Des Peres further along toward where it joins the Mississippi.
There was an episode of New Tricks in which the history of the river Fleet played a prominent role, I found that so fascinating. And now I stumble upon this amazing video ♥ You are very good at bringing history alive thank you so much. Subscribed and will watch your other videos with great interest!
Absolutely fascinating. Many thanks.
Nice work John!
Are there no maps available of the "drains" the Fleet now occupies?
I am amazed that it was once a navigable waterway...
Cheers from DownUnder.
😉
Another most excellent walk!
cheers Rick
Bravura, John! 'Illuminating' in many, many, ways!
The Jubilee tube line was originally intended to be called the Fleet Line.
would have been a fitting tribute
Because the queen hadn’t had enough things named after her.
Bad name because it goes nowhere near the Fleet.
Also -if you were talking about trains on a line you would say e.g. Victoria Line Fleet, Bakerloo Line Fleet and Fleet Line Fleet.
@@user-ky6vw5up9m I don’t think the subject of a tube line’s fleet would come up in everyday conversations much.
@@user-ky6vw5up9m When construction of the Fleet Line commenced in 1971 it was intended to cross under the River Fleet at Ludgate Circus. In 1975 when the Silver Jubilee was approaching the name was changed.
Thank you.
Oh, and Byron Mews may be a clay pit excavation site, where the local and much hated Lord dug Hampstead for brick. The road from the Heath to Jack Straws Castle being another example. I’ve found early clay pipes, charcoal and chicken bones above the clay layer on Constantine Rd just in one little round blackened pile!
Thanks John for another great video. It’s great the way you’re able to read the landscape and roads. I think I’m right in saying also there used to be a market on the lower reaches of the Fleet after it was covered up.
What a treasure it is to see the 'headwaters', so to speak, of the River Fleet. Mr. Howard would be thrilled that his VALE OF HEALTH reference would be read aloud on the magical technology of UA-cam 160+ yrs. later. Beautiful and learning so much. Love LOVE these videos of yours, John Rogers. New subscriber and MUCH Appreciation from Oklahoma! ⚘
I worked for the daily mail , and there was a grating in the press room were you could see the river flowing to the Thames at Blackfriars
Another Excellent Journey. Thankyou John
Thank you, John. Fascinating as always.
cheers Kevin
Thank you John.
You're cheering up an afternoon where I'm not very well, but then you always do! 🙂
hope you're feeling better soon Celt
@@JohnRogersWalks Very kind of you John, thank you 🙂
This was very interesting and has inspired me to try this walk myself. Thanks. Really enjoying your series.
Great walk lots of people out and about
Wow that was a amazing walk
I really enjoys this
thanks Merenda
Awesome video
Dear John, greetings from near Yosemite in the States. I’d come across references to the Fleet and London’s lost rivers in various books. And tonight, I looked the Fleet up on UA-cam and was lucky enough to come across you and your lovely walk. My wife and I enjoyed joining you for your stroll.
Brilliant vid John so amazing you found the source of the Fleet yiur vids are brilliant
cheers Stephen - that's very much appreciated
That was a great vid thanks.
thanks Baz
these river walks never disappoint! always so much to discover - thanks once again, john!
Watching this again 3/14/21. I so enjoy this video.
As an American I find your video's very interesting and educational. Thank You.
At 17.27 on Kentish Town rd just past the post box, there's a lane you use to see the river fleet just there. As kid coming out of the fish and chip shop I would look at it.
Great one John...coincidentally, Joolz Guides also released a video today that featured the King's Cross area and mentions the Fleet as he observes and sniffs around a grate over the river and mentions its sewage smell. He also mentions Boudica as rumored to be buried under King's Cross. He pronounces Boudica very differently.
Thanks Stephen. I think the other pronunciation of Boudica is the Latinized version but I could be wrong
Boo-de-kerr not Bow-de-see-err
Paul Talling does a Fleet walk from Blackfriars to St. Pancras Old Church. Highly recommend his Lost Rivers and Derelict London books.
Any of Paul's walks are epic!
That was lovely to watch, I lived in Grafton Road as a child and you showed a glimpse of my school 😁 I was baptised at St Pancras old church and so was my dad, and my family grew up in the area too, lovely memories 😁
Fascinating video, thank you so much!
Loved this!
I loved this John!
Worth waiting for and very atmospheric , and a familiarity of pleasant times xxx
Thank you John.Top notch as usual.
Thanks john for a great in depth post, walked passed many old places i know so well or used to some are still there, Look forward to the next one Keep safe, Dave in Yorkshire.
thanks Dave