I find all of your small steam engine videos very informative. I may never own one of these but I enjoy watching you apply your experience and expertise to these. Either fabrication or repairs. Thanks.
I suppose a new cylinder is the entirely right way to do it, but in the end it's a model engine and should run well enough for a model as is. Could the ports be filled with some brazing and reshaped or would that be almost as much work as just getting a new casting and finishing it?
Why are the pistons not set so that when one is TDC the other is BDC? As I see from this video, they're 90 degrees apart. To my intuition, this would make the engine's power output fluctuate (not a problem on a model, of course) but more importantly make it uneven and vibrate more. Can someone explain why it is like this please?
As far as i understand it's for self starting. With the cranks 180⁰ apart you could have a situation where 1x piston is TDC and the other is BDC, so without physically turning the engine it wouldn't self start. With the cranks 90⁰ apart, even if 1x piston is TDC or BDC then the other will HAVE to be in a position where steam or air can be admitted that cylinder and it will cause the engine to start. I don't know about the 'uneven power' distribution, i think that would apply more to a single acting engine (like an internal combustion engine, where the piston is only being driven in a downward stroke). I don't know if it would really be an issue with this engine being 'double acting' (the piston providing power in both the upward and downward strokes) or even in an engine of this size, i don't think that it would be much different to a double acting single cylinder engine. And as for the vibration, the cranks can be 'balanced' with extra material on the webs for smooth running, some engines have it (like my big Stuart 'triple expansion') whereas some don't as i guess that it's just not needed.
As someone without access to larger tools like a lathe or drill press, would you recommend the machined kits form Stuart. I can get access to files. I am new to the model world and was wondering if that would be the best starting point. Thank you
I like your videos a lot I think they are very informative I’ve been trying to figure out how to get into The Hobby but I’ve been not able to find anything in a decent scale size like you are working on any suggestions.
Another great video Keith ! When I first was watching I though you had nicked my engine! As I've painted it in the same way and with similar cylinder tin covers .
1:10 9/32 of an inch... imperial measurements are the weirdest thing ever if you look at it from the realm of millimetres. I as a guy from germany need a calculator just to get an idea of that measurement :D How can anyone do proper engineering with all these weird fractions of inches around? It's like the imperial system lacks a tiny unit, something in the magnitude of 1/32inch (what equals about 0,8mm) - or you could just start using metric :D Of course i get how it historically made sense, take an inch, halve it, halve it again, and again, this is easy to do precisely using only a ruler and a circle drawer... Maybe it gave british engineers a tiny edge of advantage in the early days of steam engines...
Imperial has worked in engineering for a long time - and it still works very well for me (I was taught it at school) - plus the measurements on the drawings for the models are also usually in Imperial . . . . Don't the USA still use Imperial? - they seem to manage quite well and they do make some really nice stuff . . . . . . The British Engineers that you mention actually invented, developed and manufactured the first Steam Engines using Imperial if I remember rightly }:-)))
What about the sloppy machining in the valve chest? So far, every Stuart i see here has problems with machining and tolerances. Manufacturer might be using off-site employees.
these models are made mainly by amateur home machinists not by the 'manufacturer" - they mainly sell castings. Stuart pre-machined kits are very good from my experience.
I find all of your small steam engine videos very informative.
I may never own one of these but I enjoy watching you apply your experience and expertise to these.
Either fabrication or repairs.
Thanks.
Great video! A good bit of "detective work" to find the problems and good on you for fixing them!
Absolutely fascinating! Your expertise in dealing with these engines Keith is remarkable. Very interesting video full of good advice. Thanks for this.
I suppose a new cylinder is the entirely right way to do it, but in the end it's a model engine and should run well enough for a model as is. Could the ports be filled with some brazing and reshaped or would that be almost as much work as just getting a new casting and finishing it?
another nice video,
thanks for sharing Keith
regards....Keith in Swindon
Would it be possible to repair the valve face without machining a new cylinder? JB weld or solder another face on it?
a false port face over the badly made ports, would save the price of a new
cylinder casting, enjoy you'r work Keith, thanks for taking the trouble .
Yes I realise that, but I always think doing that is a bit of a bodge ......
Excellent! How is the Victory project going?
4:02 sounds like me, at 6 AM .
4:16 the set screws on the crank ends are a bit over long.
I'm really enjoying watching your videos, thank you.
If you would please tell us why the 2 different flywheels and is the double smaller one standard? Thanks
The smaller flywheel is a marine version ......
@@keithappleton Thanks. I was just curious because I haven't seen the double version as a standard one
Missed your videos. Great job.
Great video once again 😀 keep up the good work
Not ideal but wouldn't you be able to put a spot of brazing on the damage ports then file them out square?
a replaceable steam chest face was the mark of a high class engine ,back in the day.
Why are the pistons not set so that when one is TDC the other is BDC? As I see from this video, they're 90 degrees apart. To my intuition, this would make the engine's power output fluctuate (not a problem on a model, of course) but more importantly make it uneven and vibrate more. Can someone explain why it is like this please?
As far as i understand it's for self starting. With the cranks 180⁰ apart you could have a situation where 1x piston is TDC and the other is BDC, so without physically turning the engine it wouldn't self start.
With the cranks 90⁰ apart, even if 1x piston is TDC or BDC then the other will HAVE to be in a position where steam or air can be admitted that cylinder and it will cause the engine to start.
I don't know about the 'uneven power' distribution, i think that would apply more to a single acting engine (like an internal combustion engine, where the piston is only being driven in a downward stroke).
I don't know if it would really be an issue with this engine being 'double acting' (the piston providing power in both the upward and downward strokes) or even in an engine of this size, i don't think that it would be much different to a double acting single cylinder engine.
And as for the vibration, the cranks can be 'balanced' with extra material on the webs for smooth running, some engines have it (like my big Stuart 'triple expansion') whereas some don't as i guess that it's just not needed.
As someone without access to larger tools like a lathe or drill press, would you recommend the machined kits form Stuart. I can get access to files. I am new to the model world and was wondering if that would be the best starting point. Thank you
It would be a difficult job without at least a Lathe ...... :-((((
Thank you for the reply, I will keep searching. With the models themselves being or 200 USD I might as well save up for a smaller lathe.
I like your videos a lot I think they are very informative I’ve been trying to figure out how to get into The Hobby but I’ve been not able to find anything in a decent scale size like you are working on any suggestions.
Good job,,, now that is an understatement. ...
Thank you Sir,,, :)
Another great video Keith ! When I first was watching I though you had nicked my engine! As I've painted it in the same way and with similar cylinder tin covers .
Thanks Keith a pleasure to watch. Cheers mate
Interesting video, thanks for posting
need to get some paint on that crankshaft:):)
Is there any kind of epoxy or other material that can be made to adhere to the ports to allow re-shaping and would stand up to steam?
yes, I was thinking the same thing, a bit of JB Weld epoxy would be an easy fix, then file/sand it smooth.
Thanks Keith
1:10 9/32 of an inch... imperial measurements are the weirdest thing ever if you look at it from the realm of millimetres. I as a guy from germany need a calculator just to get an idea of that measurement :D How can anyone do proper engineering with all these weird fractions of inches around? It's like the imperial system lacks a tiny unit, something in the magnitude of 1/32inch (what equals about 0,8mm) - or you could just start using metric :D
Of course i get how it historically made sense, take an inch, halve it, halve it again, and again, this is easy to do precisely using only a ruler and a circle drawer... Maybe it gave british engineers a tiny edge of advantage in the early days of steam engines...
Imperial has worked in engineering for a long time - and it still works very well for me (I was taught it at school) - plus the measurements on the drawings for the models are also usually in Imperial . . . . Don't the USA still use Imperial? - they seem to manage quite well and they do make some really nice stuff . . . . . . The British Engineers that you mention actually invented, developed and manufactured the first Steam Engines using Imperial if I remember rightly }:-)))
A nice and easy fix!
What about the sloppy machining in the valve chest? So far, every Stuart i see here has problems with machining and tolerances. Manufacturer might be using off-site employees.
these models are made mainly by amateur home machinists not by the 'manufacturer" - they mainly sell castings. Stuart pre-machined kits are very good from my experience.
nice job.
le montage et l’ajustage réglage , ont ne peut que le faire bien soit même ...c 'est monter en usine rapide voila le résultât !
i want one $