Steve watched your video and was very helpful. My drill press bearing a bit dry and followed your steps. I managed to grease the top bearing. Eliminating the noise at that section. Thanks.
Good tip and great to have British fix...that does not involve going to Tractor supply or a biz box store that bzmboozles Europeans...like the oil idea to swap down to the lower parts.
Thanks for your excellent tips on improving this "cheap" Chinese workbench drill. I use a similar one and it gives me lots of pleasure, certainly a lot more after after implementing your improvements. I notice that on mine there is a lot of fine black dust in the drive belt housing, no doubt coming from the V-belt, so there must be some misalignment or slippage. Have you noticed a similar amount of wear?
Hi The bearings were dry and it is better to oil them like I have shown. When they specify that they are sealed bearings this is not actually true in a sense. They have a thin metal guard, but this does not actually seal them, otherwise they wouldn't dry out. Oiling them is the best method and any excess oil runs through and thoroughly cleans the bearings anyway. Dirt cannot get into this mechanism as I made a cover at the top of the drill head, as seen in the video. Regards Steve
I need to watch this later, today I received my cheap new drill press which is almost 1:1 with yours, it’s branded “hecht”. What’s the screw for, the one between the front and the handles? My manual doesn’t mention it, BUT it is drawn, perhaps quill adjustment?
I like your videos, Steve. Just a comment about the bearings; Don't you think it would be better to put grease in them rather than oil? Usually, they come with grease in them. All I have seen were meant to have grease, unless they are open bearings in an oil flooded gear box, or similar application.
+dcw56 Hi Normally I would use grease but it would mean I would have to take the chuck off to get to the bottom bearing. I just use thick oil usually with some molyslip and it will lubricate both from the top. Also I have found in that grease isn't much better in these types of bearings especially if the sheild has been removed. It only stays in the bearing track for a very short time. I think oil is the best option for a quick and easy method of lubrication. Thanks for watching...Regards Steve
I have a national machines drill that looks identical to this one. Have you found that when you add tension on the belts by nipping them together that the motor flexes? The one major mod i am going to make on mine is to remake the motor mounting plate and the tensioner rod as a dog leg style so it applies pressure to the center of the plate evenly as oppose to the top.
What would cause a pillar drill (nu-tools) to electrically cut switch off under load or when there is a bit of vibration say from a chipped bit cutting metal? Appears to cut off more as it's used for longer as if it's some kind of thermal cut off. Everything appears to be loose up in the belt housing. Motor a little warm. Any clues?
Start/run capacitors on the electric motors have a finite service life. Possibly time to replace bearings in motor as excess frictional load will tend to make capacitors fail sooner.
@@SteveJordan thank you for this. I have a 13mm drill press, I stopped using it because I felt its lowest rpm of 600 is too much. Today I gave it try again after reading your comment, and it does work well provided I use coolant. Plan to use it more for things I used handrill earlier.
Yes, that is good as well. I mix some molybdenum disulfide grease with engine oil now. It makes an excellent lubricant. I will show it soon, maybe on my Facebook Engineering page. facebook.com/steve.jordan.3766952
Rolingmetal Hi I found out after taking the seal off the lower bearing that I didn't need to. Enough oil gets down through from the top open one. It should be ok if you have plastic shielded one to do the same? In fact leaving the lower seal in should hold the oil in a bit I think.
Well mine is still perfect after at least 10 years, so what you are saying isn't true. Grease or oil it doesn't matter in the slightest as long as it is lubricated well.
Yes I have two of these chiwanese bench drills a large heavt one and a smaller one ,I have replaced all the bearings with good quality SKF and NSK sealed bearings . The amont of lube in a sealed bearing is calculated to the correct amount when the bearing is assembled ,and will last the life of the bearing .Too much or too little will shorten the life of the bearing Both my machines run smooth as silk. The bearings will out last me.
facebook.com/steve.jordan.3766952
Steve watched your video and was very helpful. My drill press bearing a bit dry and followed your steps. I managed to grease the top bearing. Eliminating the noise at that section. Thanks.
Welcome. That good. Thanks again.
Good tip and great to have British fix...that does not involve going to Tractor supply or a biz box store that bzmboozles Europeans...like the oil idea to swap down to the lower parts.
Thank you for your painstaking work more grease to your elbow. I have learned from your great video. Thank you uncle
Hello Mr Jordan. Great DIY has always. Thank you for sharing.
All my best.
Bobby
A good tip. I remember you extending the column.
Thanks for your excellent tips on improving this "cheap" Chinese workbench drill. I use a similar one and it gives me lots of pleasure, certainly a lot more after after implementing your improvements. I notice that on mine there is a lot of fine black dust in the drive belt housing, no doubt coming from the V-belt, so there must be some misalignment or slippage. Have you noticed a similar amount of wear?
Thank you....very use full tip
You aren’t supposed to oil sealed bearings. That’s why they’re sealed. It’s just going to attract crap and cause the them to not run smoothly.
Hi The bearings were dry and it is better to oil them like I have shown. When they specify that they are sealed bearings this is not actually true in a sense. They have a thin metal guard, but this does not actually seal them, otherwise they wouldn't dry out. Oiling them is the best method and any excess oil runs through and thoroughly cleans the bearings anyway. Dirt cannot get into this mechanism as I made a cover at the top of the drill head, as seen in the video. Regards Steve
I need to watch this later, today I received my cheap new drill press which is almost 1:1 with yours, it’s branded “hecht”.
What’s the screw for, the one between the front and the handles? My manual doesn’t mention it, BUT it is drawn, perhaps quill adjustment?
I like your videos, Steve. Just a comment about the bearings; Don't you think it would be better to put grease in them rather than oil? Usually, they come with grease in them. All I have seen were meant to have grease, unless they are open bearings in an oil flooded gear box, or similar application.
my walker turner is oiled from the top trough the bearings and drips (over time ) on down and drips off the chuck
+dcw56 Hi Normally I would use grease but it would mean I would have to take the chuck off to get to the bottom bearing. I just use thick oil usually with some molyslip and it will lubricate both from the top. Also I have found in that grease isn't much better in these types of bearings especially if the sheild has been removed. It only stays in the bearing track for a very short time. I think oil is the best option for a quick and easy method of lubrication. Thanks for watching...Regards Steve
does your spindle have a squared shank or spline ?
is there anyway to prevent the play when the quill is pulled down?
Yeah or sling it in the scrap because that's lethal
THANK YOU...for sharing.
I have a national machines drill that looks identical to this one. Have you found that when you add tension on the belts by nipping them together that the motor flexes? The one major mod i am going to make on mine is to remake the motor mounting plate and the tensioner rod as a dog leg style so it applies pressure to the center of the plate evenly as oppose to the top.
Hi Mick, Yes mine does flex a bit. That sounds a good upgrade to do. Regards Steve
What would cause a pillar drill (nu-tools) to electrically cut switch off under load or when there is a bit of vibration say from a chipped bit cutting metal? Appears to cut off more as it's used for longer as if it's some kind of thermal cut off. Everything appears to be loose up in the belt housing. Motor a little warm. Any clues?
Start/run capacitors on the electric motors have a finite service life. Possibly time to replace bearings in motor as excess frictional load will tend to make capacitors fail sooner.
Loose belt
Thanks for your tips! Can you please explain what are those things on top of your step pulley?
Hi Thanks. That is a handwheel for doing manual screw tapping etc. Regards Steve
@@SteveJordan what's the lowest speed on this one?
About 540 RPM without load.
@@SteveJordan thank you for this. I have a 13mm drill press, I stopped using it because I felt its lowest rpm of 600 is too much. Today I gave it try again after reading your comment, and it does work well provided I use coolant. Plan to use it more for things I used handrill earlier.
I like the handles ....what are those little handles on the motor side pulley ? Did i hear correctly , a flywheel on the driven pulley ?
The handles are for manually turning the spindle for screw tapping etc.
@@SteveJordan I'd very much like to add a manual handle like yours. Might you kindly provide the details of yours? (Jay@Zebryk.com)
big up my g
how about Lithium Grease lubricant, instead of engine oil
Yes, that is good as well. I mix some molybdenum disulfide grease with engine oil now. It makes an excellent lubricant. I will show it soon, maybe on my Facebook Engineering page. facebook.com/steve.jordan.3766952
Get cover for that drive train Mann, those spinning wheels are dangerous as hell
I guess this wouldn't work for the lower bearing if the drill press has those plastic seals.
Rolingmetal Hi I found out after taking the seal off the lower bearing that I didn't need to. Enough oil gets down through from the top open one. It should be ok if you have plastic shielded one to do the same? In fact leaving the lower seal in should hold the oil in a bit I think.
Isn't this drill press too fast for metal working?
No it's fine. Regards Steve
These components are meant to have GREASE not oil, follow this misguided info at your machines peril.
Well mine is still perfect after at least 10 years, so what you are saying isn't true. Grease or oil it doesn't matter in the slightest as long as it is lubricated well.
Or you could just buy some new bearings.
+TheManLab7 The bearings are good....it would be pointless changing them
Yes I have two of these chiwanese bench drills a large heavt one and a smaller one ,I have replaced all the bearings with good quality SKF and NSK sealed bearings . The amont of lube in a sealed bearing is calculated to the correct amount when the bearing is assembled ,and will last the life of the bearing .Too much or too little will shorten the life of the bearing Both my machines run smooth as silk. The bearings will out last me.
If the bearing is that bad it should be replaced
I haven't had a bearing wear out yet. They are still running smoothly from the day I bought it.