Used paper negatives quite a lot and this process is great if you want a old (1800s) looking image. Sky will however always be completly blown out unless you only expose after the sky and the rest will be really dark. Also not much detail in shadows and highlights. But you can get a paper negative that look pretty much like a normal image from film. For this I use a yellow filter when I take the image, add 1 stop to the exposure for the loss of sensitivity. Also use a orange filter for some more contrast, add 3 stops + the filter factor so 5 stops in total to the exposure. Don't expose the paper for the max ISO that a can squese out of it but go one stop below. Develop in Dectol in something like 15+1 dilution. With this I have gotten images that looks much better, detailed skyes with clouds and everything. Exposure have also been reliable so I use a lightmeter and very rarely get unexpected results. Have some link to images that I taken but im guessing this comment will be flagged as junk if I add these.
been watching for months, enjoy much. Started in photography in 1955,,,and you are very inspirational. Thank you. I plan to drag out from my collection one of the large folding cameras and do some paper negative shooting. You have got me of my ass....thank you very much...
Coming back to watch this video again because I'm in the middle of building an Afghan Box Camera (Kamra-e-foree) and so I really need to learn to nail my exposures. I've done lots of paper negatives before but it didn't occur to me how important the exposure and development time is for producing a good negative without too much contrast. I always relied on preflashing the paper. This is much like wet plate collodion, which is good :) Thanks so much for sharing your experiences; that paper negative is astonishing; I've never seen one so good!
Ha! I've been shooting 18x24 cm paper negatives for about two months now. Wish I'd seen this particular video earlier. Would have shortened my learning curve! I'm doing mostly flash portraits (2x 800 WS from the same side through softboxes, which is everything I have, + white reflector on the shadow side), and your video showed me I probably still underexpose and overdevelop (paper developer). Very little detail on the shadow side. I will first try ID-11 developer, and if that doesn't bring more shadow detail, switch to at least one hard reflector for more power. Thanks man!
I have been shooting a few paper negatives out of an old Kodak Brownie camera. Your videos are responsible for me spending so much money on an old camera and RC paper. Hopefully I have enough left over for coffee. Now I have everything for sale except my Kidney……… officially 😉
Really hooked on your videos. I've been shooting film since I was a kid but rediscovered it about three years ago. I'm aiming for a 4x5 camera for Xmas and have started building my darkroom. I'm already planning to make a wet plate holder for the camera and look forward to trying it using your video guides.
Maybe you will try reverse developing? Its how to swich paper negative to positive. I think it can be interesting video on your YT channel for many people. Expose paper, normal deleloping, then bleaching ( image will quickly disappear), turn the white light on and now you need to wash the paper, next it's time for the second dev with potassium rhodium (i know some people doesnt use potassium rhodium but as I know it helps a lot).
Really cool. I have a Kodak Rocket Brownie that I've converted to shoot 120 roll film. It's still in its trial stage (has been for a couple of years now) I've not managed to get anything like the quality of your image.... But I'll give it another go again :-) Thank you Borut :-)
What are you rating the paper at ISO wise? Borut seems to do things with an intuitiveness that is amazing, which the rest of us mere mortals lack along with time.
Hi Borut - I played around with paper negs, a couple of years ago, also with an early 1900's folding Brownie, and was also pleasantly surprised at the results. When I got distracted away from it, I was about to try controlling the contrast, with Multigrade filters over the camera lens, as opposed to dev'ing in film developer, and still intend to experiment along those lines. Have you tried that, yourself?
I haven't tried that, although it did crossed my mind. Although the multigrade filters are made for tungsten bulb and not for UV rich daylight, I believe it would be good to explore that further. In the combination with light meter that has strong blue filter, limiting to the blue and UV, I believe that might be a good topic for one more vlog.
The sharpness of those images comes from the paper or the lens or the fact that that camera was very well light sealed? I made my own in camera cyanotype negative camera but I always have spots and flashes although I'm sure it's fully light sealed. (*I know maybe sounds like a stupid question, but we are all learning new things everyday. Also I just am finishing up work on my new wooden sliding box camera 1845's style in which I will try and use paper negatives).
using a light meter is a good thing actually. you just need to use it properly. paper negatives must be shot with dense yellow filter to cut off UV and blue light. so as a light meter must be used with same filter (spot metering preferred).
Ha, that's an awesome tip! I never heard it, but it will work. Not consistently as with film, but far more accurately then without the yellow filter. THX
that is some interesting stuff here! i have shot film for a long time but this is really interesting thanks for sharing this great content with us! really enjoyed watching this
Would love to see you try enlarging some paper negatives. I was able to enlarge 4x5 to 16x20 with some fantastic results but getting the focus dialed is the real trick. Glossy resin coated paper is the way to go to minimize the paper grain transferring onto your print.
hey i was thinking about it. You just used it as film, emulsion facing down? First i though contact printing but 4x5 is too small for what i want. Let me know some info, i dont even have a large format camera but im planning on building one on summer.
@@HugoPlaVentas Yes the paper negative was placed in the enlarger just as you would a film negative, emulsion down. Switching to a more powerful enlarger bulb is really going to help your exposure times. With the bulb I use for film the exposure time of my prints was around 3-4 minutes.
@@HugoPlaVentas That would be up to your own judgment and experimentation. I shoot my paper negatives unfiltered on multi grade paper. I have found a yellow filter will increase the exposure range on paper although I have not enlarged a negative in which I used that filter.
@@natereed3409 okay i was thinking on making test exposures on the field by covering the lens, do u think thats possible?
4 роки тому+1
Great content and beautiful work but I don't know what's the point of the refugees thing, I don't live there and I don't know what could be happening. Besides that this is pretty cool. Thanks for sharing your work.
Here I am, watching this again because I'm starting a series of experiments tomorrow! Hope you're around, Borut, to answer a question: what dilution did you use for the D-76? Normal as for film? I'm going to try this with studio lighting. Fingers crossed. I'm sure I'll learn a lot, regardless. Thank you for this video, I learned a LOT.
LJ, I'm understood dilution D-72 developer for paper, proportion 1/19, if you don't have film developer. And 45 seconds for developer. Am I right, Professor Peterlin? Thanks a lot for your vídeos.
no. but even if I would it, it would be trivial and very likely misleading information. You have all the information you need, now it's just time to do it. May the topshit be with you!
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography You're right, dumb question. I already took some test shots and some of them went very well. I'm using Kodak No. 3A Autographic Special which has quite decent lens. Thanks!
Can you extend the dynamic range of a paper negative with water bath developing (or whatever you call it) where you let the developing stage finish in a very still water bath so that in the more active areas the developer is used up and the other areas get to continue developing and catch up a bit? It is a type of localised contrast masking. I've used it myself many years ago, but not with the sort of set up you have.
I have tried it, not with paper negatives, but ordinary printing and my experience is that it has homeopathic effect. If I would believe in it, I would see the effect, but unfortunately that was not the case. Chemical way is much more efficient.
When I use a cut-film/plate camera, to get a rough idea, I do a test strip, by inching the darkslide, in (or out), of the filmholder (covering the lens between exposures to avoid movement or shake) as one would when making a print - then straight into the darkroom to develop the test strip, and provided the contrast is okay, there's the exposure time, provided of course that you're not to far from a darkroom :-)
I was going to buy paper that turns it into a direct positive but looking at this video I see that I can use my many boxes of photographic paper. The film development opened my eyes. What printer did you print it out on.
Thanks man! All your vlog are funny and well done! I definitely want to try with my 4x5" to do also paper negatives. I want to print some subjects in negative form (without reverse in positive). Is, by your experience, a FB paper usable as well as a RC ?
incredible videos man , just wanted to ask one question. I do have an antique camera from 1930s but I dont know what do i need to get that would be possible to put that antique camera on a tripod from today. do i need some sort of adopter and if yes which one?
Depends on the screw, of course. I have only two Indian cameras that I needed to make an adopter for a tripod, Brownie have today's conventional screw. Perhaps it's 3/8th of an inch and your tripod is 1/4th of an inch. If that so, the adopters are very common in camera stores or on ebay. If not, a plywood plank and screw in the right screw and you have modernised an old camera.
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography thank you verry much for your answer:) . By the way the model Ive got as a present is Voigtlander virtus withanastigmat skopar 1:4.5 lens.
Hi Borut, I always find what I am looking for in your Vlogs :D Hope you are doing fine in your new studio up in the hills. I am planing a happening in Czech Republic next year, and would like to make portraits inside a "kravin" using 8x10 inch camera and photopaper (Foma). I want to use flash to illuminate people, and available light from windows for the background (huge kravin). Do you have any experience with photopaper and flash? Suppose I have to experiment a lot, but any advice would help me now. Keep up the good work my friend :D
Arne, ty vole, long time no see. No, I never used flash for paper negative, but nevertheless light is light. Your project sounds very good and I'm sure you will come with great results. Enjoy!
I went to a super cool vintage charity shop in town tonight thinking your 3a was the same one in there dusty display! They said a week ago they NEVER sell their atmosphere props and so I asked the kind cashier if the owner would entertain the question of purchase AND HE DID! Said yes and now I can report the bellows and lens are mint condition (the leather cover is really just fallow off! Haha 😂) the important parts are strong as your tutorial and I'm ecstatic your post has inspired this trajectory. You're a try champion and v/funny 😂 - thank you so much for your time and massive knowledge share
Whoa! So instead of processing the paper once it's been exposed in multigrade developer you've processed it in ID11. What ratio do you mix it to or do you use it neat? Surely also you need to tell total beginners a rough starting point for exposing paper - would you not even suggest a ball park figure?
Stock solution would be fine. Expose it so blacks will be "white" meaning unexposed on paper. Beginner of a pro, you have to do it and learn by doing it. enjoy!
Thanks! I ask this because I am making gelatino chloride dry plate and albumen print and correctly exposing a plate to get the density required is quite difficult so if I redevelop my overexposed plates maybe I can salvage them.
No, it's not a computer drawing like inkjet or laser print, it's a proper photographic paper. Fujicolor Crystal Archive Paper is a silver halide colour paper.
that's what I meant, there is a "lightjet" process that I thought used lasers (maybe not lasers) to print on Fuji crystal paper, which is a silver based photographic paper. I do not have such a service in my area that can provide this for me, unfortunately.
I've done negative prints with an homemade pinhole camera.. but I always ended up with overexposed pics.. now I understand why!! I was thinking on doing positives with the contac printing technique.. you need a paper without writings in the back.. but I never tried it in the end.. @peter, would that be feasible?
I've done negative prints with an homemade pinhole camera.. but I always ended up with overexposed pics.. now I understand why!! I was thinking on doing positives with the contac printing technique.. you need a paper without writings in the back.. but I never tried it in the end.. @peter, would that be feasible?
You can do a contact print. Could also put it in a enlarger and do a standard darkroom print. Have done so with a 4x5" paper neg to a 8x10" print. But that was quite the hassle compared to film as the light that goes true the paper is way dimmer. However it is doable as long as you don't do bigger enlagings and you can easaly get a really long exposure time as you stop down the enlager lens.
@Felab Not heard of a process like that, heard of transferring the emulsion from the paper to a glass plate but guess you can't do that with modern darkroom paper.
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography light meter, tu razlozis da te lm zafrknu ker ti ne kaze ir al uv svetlobe zato si predolg cas imel pri fotkanju. in da nak se navadimo brez njega delat "thumbs up babe!" ...
This is one of the best videos on silver gelatin papers in general! Thank you for this content
These occasional "teaching" videos are great! Being able to see the difference between ideal shots and problematic ones is invaluable.
I learned some things and enjoyed your video. Time well-spent. Thank you!
Used paper negatives quite a lot and this process is great if you want a old (1800s) looking image.
Sky will however always be completly blown out unless you only expose after the sky and the rest will be really dark.
Also not much detail in shadows and highlights.
But you can get a paper negative that look pretty much like a normal image from film.
For this I use a yellow filter when I take the image, add 1 stop to the exposure for the loss of sensitivity.
Also use a orange filter for some more contrast, add 3 stops + the filter factor so 5 stops in total to the exposure.
Don't expose the paper for the max ISO that a can squese out of it but go one stop below.
Develop in Dectol in something like 15+1 dilution.
With this I have gotten images that looks much better, detailed skyes with clouds and everything.
Exposure have also been reliable so I use a lightmeter and very rarely get unexpected results.
Have some link to images that I taken but im guessing this comment will be flagged as junk if I add these.
I’ve watched this so many times but think I finally get it. We’ll see tomorrow when I try again.
Just purchased single exposure back for my Mamiya C330. Thanks this video will help me immensely. Paper negatives here i come
been watching for months, enjoy much. Started in photography in 1955,,,and you are very inspirational. Thank you. I plan to drag out from my collection one of the large folding cameras and do some paper negative shooting. You have got me of my ass....thank you very much...
Coming back to watch this video again because I'm in the middle of building an Afghan Box Camera (Kamra-e-foree) and so I really need to learn to nail my exposures. I've done lots of paper negatives before but it didn't occur to me how important the exposure and development time is for producing a good negative without too much contrast. I always relied on preflashing the paper. This is much like wet plate collodion, which is good :) Thanks so much for sharing your experiences; that paper negative is astonishing; I've never seen one so good!
I just bought one of the Kodak Brownie 3A cameras. Your video is great and I really am inspired to give this camera a try. Thank you.
I have been a photographer for over 30 years and I still learn a great amount from you.
Top Shit Land does exist!!!
inverting the curve to convert, never thought of doing that
Love your energy and attitude! Thanks for sharing such an educational video
THe best tutorial ever! Thanks Borut!!!!❤️
This video wery helpfully. I hought a 91 years old 9x12 Zeiss folding camera. But the paper is 2 or 3 time cheaper, than the sheet film.
Dude you are amazing and a true inspiration! Keep on!
Topshit certainly does happen! just what I needed to do some reversal process.
Love the style of your vids. Really great vibe
Hi Borut. I've never realized how wide is the back window of this camera. Just got one. Thanks for the suggestion.
Ha! I've been shooting 18x24 cm paper negatives for about two months now. Wish I'd seen this particular video earlier. Would have shortened my learning curve! I'm doing mostly flash portraits (2x 800 WS from the same side through softboxes, which is everything I have, + white reflector on the shadow side), and your video showed me I probably still underexpose and overdevelop (paper developer). Very little detail on the shadow side. I will first try ID-11 developer, and if that doesn't bring more shadow detail, switch to at least one hard reflector for more power. Thanks man!
Thanks for the film developer tip!🙏
I have been shooting a few paper negatives out of an old Kodak Brownie camera. Your videos are responsible for me spending so much money on an old camera and RC paper. Hopefully I have enough left over for coffee. Now I have everything for sale except my Kidney……… officially 😉
You got it, Terry! Well done! 😜
Really hooked on your videos. I've been shooting film since I was a kid but rediscovered it about three years ago. I'm aiming for a 4x5 camera for Xmas and have started building my darkroom. I'm already planning to make a wet plate holder for the camera and look forward to trying it using your video guides.
Češi do toho!!!! ❤❤
This guy should lecture photography in the US. Plus, He probably has more subscribers than the population of his village. The world needs more Boruts.
Why on earth should he lecture photography in the US? He is in EU. Strange people.
Maybe you will try reverse developing? Its how to swich paper negative to positive. I think it can be interesting video on your YT channel for many people. Expose paper, normal deleloping, then bleaching ( image will quickly disappear), turn the white light on and now you need to wash the paper, next it's time for the second dev with potassium rhodium (i know some people doesnt use potassium rhodium but as I know it helps a lot).
any bleacher will do?
Bleacher is:
- 10g of potasium dichromate
- 40ml of 38% Sulphuric acid
- 960ml of water
This one for sure. I didnt practise any else.
Thank you@@krasnyyy
Really cool. I have a Kodak Rocket Brownie that I've converted to shoot 120 roll film. It's still in its trial stage (has been for a couple of years now) I've not managed to get anything like the quality of your image.... But I'll give it another go again :-) Thank you Borut :-)
What are you rating the paper at ISO wise? Borut seems to do things with an intuitiveness that is amazing, which the rest of us mere mortals lack along with time.
Bravo Peterlin! Need more of these stuff!
Great content! I am going to try this thecnique and upload a video on my own UA-cam channel dedicated to film photography!
Hi Borut - I played around with paper negs, a couple of years ago, also with an early 1900's folding Brownie, and was also pleasantly surprised at the results. When I got distracted away from it, I was about to try controlling the contrast, with Multigrade filters over the camera lens, as opposed to dev'ing in film developer, and still intend to experiment along those lines. Have you tried that, yourself?
I haven't tried that, although it did crossed my mind. Although the multigrade filters are made for tungsten bulb and not for UV rich daylight, I believe it would be good to explore that further. In the combination with light meter that has strong blue filter, limiting to the blue and UV, I believe that might be a good topic for one more vlog.
15:00 You made the positive by inverting the curve tone, thats topsheeeeeet! come on!
Found this very useful, thanks.
If you use a panalure paper then your exposures will be shorter and you can record red objects in the scene with detail too.
The sharpness of those images comes from the paper or the lens or the fact that that camera was very well light sealed? I made my own in camera cyanotype negative camera but I always have spots and flashes although I'm sure it's fully light sealed. (*I know maybe sounds like a stupid question, but we are all learning new things everyday. Also I just am finishing up work on my new wooden sliding box camera 1845's style in which I will try and use paper negatives).
using a light meter is a good thing actually. you just need to use it properly.
paper negatives must be shot with dense yellow filter to cut off UV and blue light. so as a light meter must be used with same filter (spot metering preferred).
Ha, that's an awesome tip! I never heard it, but it will work. Not consistently as with film, but far more accurately then without the yellow filter. THX
that is some interesting stuff here!
i have shot film for a long time but this is really interesting
thanks for sharing this great content with us!
really enjoyed watching this
Would love to see you try enlarging some paper negatives. I was able to enlarge 4x5 to 16x20 with some fantastic results but getting the focus dialed is the real trick. Glossy resin coated paper is the way to go to minimize the paper grain transferring onto your print.
hey i was thinking about it. You just used it as film, emulsion facing down? First i though contact printing but 4x5 is too small for what i want. Let me know some info, i dont even have a large format camera but im planning on building one on summer.
@@HugoPlaVentas Yes the paper negative was placed in the enlarger just as you would a film negative, emulsion down. Switching to a more powerful enlarger bulb is really going to help your exposure times. With the bulb I use for film the exposure time of my prints was around 3-4 minutes.
@@natereed3409 great, should i use low contrast paper? or darkroom contrast filters while taking the picture to get contrast down?
@@HugoPlaVentas That would be up to your own judgment and experimentation. I shoot my paper negatives unfiltered on multi grade paper. I have found a yellow filter will increase the exposure range on paper although I have not enlarged a negative in which I used that filter.
@@natereed3409 okay i was thinking on making test exposures on the field by covering the lens, do u think thats possible?
Great content and beautiful work but I don't know what's the point of the refugees thing, I don't live there and I don't know what could be happening. Besides that this is pretty cool.
Thanks for sharing your work.
incredible,, olfords preparation id11 is the same on used for film?
Yes, any film developers are better than the paper developers.
Here I am, watching this again because I'm starting a series of experiments tomorrow! Hope you're around, Borut, to answer a question: what dilution did you use for the D-76? Normal as for film? I'm going to try this with studio lighting. Fingers crossed. I'm sure I'll learn a lot, regardless. Thank you for this video, I learned a LOT.
Stock solution, no dilution. It will be slow even like that. Enjoy LJ!
LJ, I'm understood dilution D-72 developer for paper, proportion 1/19, if you don't have film developer. And 45 seconds for developer. Am I right, Professor Peterlin? Thanks a lot for your vídeos.
Hi, do you remember approximate aperture settings for the 10 sec. negative? Thanks.
no. but even if I would it, it would be trivial and very likely misleading information. You have all the information you need, now it's just time to do it. May the topshit be with you!
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography You're right, dumb question. I already took some test shots and some of them went very well. I'm using Kodak No. 3A Autographic Special which has quite decent lens. Thanks!
Amazing! Thanks for sharing!
ya won me over here. very well done i have enough info to proceed with this
Brilliant Vlog maybe your best ever. WoW prints already sold out.
Hi Borut, I've just bought a 3D brownie.. but I'm afraid it has a smaller plate format. Can you tell me the plate size of your 3A camera? Thanks.
10x15cm doesn't matter what size it is as long it's working. Enjoy
Can you extend the dynamic range of a paper negative with water bath developing (or whatever you call it) where you let the developing stage finish in a very still water bath so that in the more active areas the developer is used up and the other areas get to continue developing and catch up a bit? It is a type of localised contrast masking. I've used it myself many years ago, but not with the sort of set up you have.
I have tried it, not with paper negatives, but ordinary printing and my experience is that it has homeopathic effect. If I would believe in it, I would see the effect, but unfortunately that was not the case. Chemical way is much more efficient.
No no no noo.... it started well, but why the heck invert it digitally??!
Great fall ... and tripod catch !!!
Yes, I've always wanted to work in a circus, but now I'm just rich and famous photographer...
Just came across you channel. Cool stuff.
Thanks for the video! I really enjoed it! I have only ILFORD MG DELUXE SATIN paper. Should it work or I just need to buy glossy instead?
It will definitely work. How will react with scanning, I don't know, but it should be OK
@@BorutPeterlinPhotographyThanks, I will try to print positive on the same paper as contact print.
Could you make a carbon print from a paper negative?
Hello Borut , thank you . I would like to try . which stop bath and fixer please ? developer ID11. ok (I can also use it on analog film 👍🏼 )
Stop bath is water or you may add some vinegar, fixer is any kind of film-paper silver gelatin fixer.
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography Thank You very much , first try this WE .
When I use a cut-film/plate camera, to get a rough idea, I do a test strip, by inching the darkslide, in (or out), of the filmholder (covering the lens between exposures to avoid movement or shake) as one would when making a print - then straight into the darkroom to develop the test strip, and provided the contrast is okay, there's the exposure time, provided of course that you're not to far from a darkroom :-)
I was going to buy paper that turns it into a direct positive but looking at this video I see that I can use my many boxes of photographic paper. The film development opened my eyes. What printer did you print it out on.
Thanks man! All your vlog are funny and well done! I definitely want to try with my 4x5" to do also paper negatives. I want to print some subjects in negative form (without reverse in positive). Is, by your experience, a FB paper usable as well as a RC ?
Yes, FB works just as well, except it might cause some issues while scanning if doesn't dry flat. THX
I was always thought that you use fiber paper for paper negatives just wondering of you've ever tried fiber paper for your historic processes
What was your aperture set at? Have the same camera love it and your videos also
Perry
Fully closed. The apperature scale was different then by today's standards, although it's using the same numbers. THX!
0:54 fastest reaction I've ever seen. It's like you could think faster than time could flow.
With all respect to Borut and you, it was nicely staged. Any one could do it who hauled tripods forever :)
incredible videos man , just wanted to ask one question. I do have an antique camera from 1930s but I dont know what do i need to get that would be possible to put that antique camera on a tripod from today. do i need some sort of adopter and if yes which one?
Depends on the screw, of course. I have only two Indian cameras that I needed to make an adopter for a tripod, Brownie have today's conventional screw. Perhaps it's 3/8th of an inch and your tripod is 1/4th of an inch. If that so, the adopters are very common in camera stores or on ebay. If not, a plywood plank and screw in the right screw and you have modernised an old camera.
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography thank you verry much for your answer:) . By the way the model Ive got as a present is Voigtlander virtus withanastigmat skopar 1:4.5 lens.
Thank you 🙏
Hi Borut, I always find what I am looking for in your Vlogs :D Hope you are doing fine in your new studio up in the hills. I am planing a happening in Czech Republic next year, and would like to make portraits inside a "kravin" using 8x10 inch camera and photopaper (Foma). I want to use flash to illuminate people, and available light from windows for the background (huge kravin). Do you have any experience with photopaper and flash? Suppose I have to experiment a lot, but any advice would help me now. Keep up the good work my friend :D
Arne, ty vole, long time no see. No, I never used flash for paper negative, but nevertheless light is light. Your project sounds very good and I'm sure you will come with great results. Enjoy!
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography Thanks, and hope to see you soon again in Prague perhaps :D
Very Good = Thank You.
I purchased that camera based on your recommendation. 👍
You are not the only one. I've bid against my patreon for the same camera, ha, ha ...
I went to a super cool vintage charity shop in town tonight thinking your 3a was the same one in there dusty display! They said a week ago they NEVER sell their atmosphere props and so I asked the kind cashier if the owner would entertain the question of purchase AND HE DID! Said yes and now I can report the bellows and lens are mint condition (the leather cover is really just fallow off! Haha 😂) the important parts are strong as your tutorial and I'm ecstatic your post has inspired this trajectory. You're a try champion and v/funny 😂 - thank you so much for your time and massive knowledge share
Whoa! So instead of processing the paper once it's been exposed in multigrade developer you've processed it in ID11. What ratio do you mix it to or do you use it neat? Surely also you need to tell total beginners a rough starting point for exposing paper - would you not even suggest a ball park figure?
Stock solution would be fine. Expose it so blacks will be "white" meaning unexposed on paper. Beginner of a pro, you have to do it and learn by doing it. enjoy!
Bloody brilliant 👏
Some people make positive photo with direct processing (ILFORD PAPER). Take look BAXTON STUDIO IN BRUSSELS ; )
Yes, but the quality of direct positive paper can not be compared with negative paper. It's more Polaroid quality vs. Primt from Film negative
TKs, Can you make video to explain this technique and compare them ;)
Era justamente isso que eu estava querendo fazer, e em dúvida
How did you enlarge the paper onto the other paper???
it's abnormaly awesome! how to use camera from 1905y :D
Če boš potrebovala kak nasvet ali kaj od te opreme, samo povej. Posodim brezplačno.
Only I can say: wow wow wow wow wow wow
Amazing channel, man.
Yes, awesome chanel
Good catch
Fabulosity !
What is the passepartout cutter you use at 16:45 ?
Nielsen & Bainbridge CH Advantage Mat Cutter.
Amazing
Borut, can dry plate negatives be re-developed to improve their density?
Yes, silver-gelatin dry plates can be redeveloped, but I've never done it. Dry collodion plates are basically using redeveloping process
Thanks! I ask this because I am making gelatino chloride dry plate and albumen print and correctly exposing a plate to get the density required is quite difficult so if I redevelop my overexposed plates maybe I can salvage them.
Also, what kind of developer should I use for redevelopment?
@@Felix-mg4mj I do only dry collodion plates
how do you enlarge paper neg ?
In analogue way it's difficult. Otherwise just scan it and print it digitally.
so, you sent the jpeg out to a lab to be laser printed on fuji crystal paper?
No, it's not a computer drawing like inkjet or laser print, it's a proper photographic paper. Fujicolor Crystal Archive Paper is a silver halide colour paper.
that's what I meant, there is a "lightjet" process that I thought used lasers (maybe not lasers) to print on Fuji crystal paper, which is a silver based photographic paper. I do not have such a service in my area that can provide this for me, unfortunately.
Češi do toho! ;)
Can you make analog prints from paper negatives?
I've done negative prints with an homemade pinhole camera.. but I always ended up with overexposed pics.. now I understand why!!
I was thinking on doing positives with the contac printing technique.. you need a paper without writings in the back.. but I never tried it in the end..
@peter, would that be feasible?
I've done negative prints with an homemade pinhole camera.. but I always ended up with overexposed pics.. now I understand why!!
I was thinking on doing positives with the contac printing technique.. you need a paper without writings in the back.. but I never tried it in the end..
@peter, would that be feasible?
You can do a contact print.
Could also put it in a enlarger and do a standard darkroom print.
Have done so with a 4x5" paper neg to a 8x10" print.
But that was quite the hassle compared to film as the light that goes true the paper is way dimmer.
However it is doable as long as you don't do bigger enlagings and you can easaly get a really long exposure time as you stop down the enlager lens.
Ive heard that calotype paper negatives where waxed to improve their transparency. Maybe the same can be done on silver gelatin paper negatives.
@Felab
Not heard of a process like that, heard of transferring the emulsion from the paper to a glass plate but guess you can't do that with modern darkroom paper.
čisto vsakemu, ko sem omenila, da ne uporabljam LM ni bilo dobro čes to moraš imeti, vesela sem tega vide hehe
Kaj bi bil LM? Morda LR? Lightroom? :-)
@@BorutPeterlinPhotography light meter, tu razlozis da te lm zafrknu ker ti ne kaze ir al uv svetlobe zato si predolg cas imel pri fotkanju. in da nak se navadimo brez njega delat "thumbs up babe!"
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Wow!!!!!
Itzok says hello ;-)
češi do toho :)
I love this motto so much. at 3.20 play it over and over
No ni kaj povedat…resnicno zanimiv kanal z odlicnimi razlagami in prakticnim prikazom…
Awesome!