I've always loved smocking! Here is what I know: The 1779 (89?) smock top - they were the tops worn by English farmers, labourers, and sometimes tradesmen. Smocking was a technique to give the garment shape without losing any - fabric was expensive and it was handed down several times. The English countrymen hung onto their smocked shirts longer than the city folk felt was appropriate - there are several articles and such with men complaining about how embarrassing the country people were in their old fashioned dress. The reason that smocking was brought back as a part of the reform dress movement, was because the Arts and Crafts community were all about highlighting the old crafts, and the way of life that a century of industrialization had almost eliminated.
That seems very logical. The Yellow Silk Dress with the smocking in the center of the "V" seems like it would work very well as a maternity dress if you let out the smocking little by little as needed for the growing belly needs.
Thank you for mentioning the Eastern European smocking. I am just starting to learn that from a Belorussian traditional costume book (only available in Russian thankfully I know the language. ) The smocking is most used at the neckline, the cuffs and in later folk clothing, at the top of the shoulder. Most of them are thread counted and mimic other embroidery styles done traditionally in design/ shape. It does look a lot like the Hapsburg gown. I can probably help you with the Eastern European sources if you'd like. Your videos are helping me understand the technique better too. Thank you.
That was so fascinating! I'll confess I didn't really know what "smocking" was, so this was incredibly helpful. Thank you for connecting the historical technique to the current day, and some insights into the larger non-English uses. What an awesome overview!
You presented such beautiful examples, I really loved it. When you mentioned the bishop collar, I thought of "bird" immediately and looked it up. Check out the northern or southern red bishop, maybe the name was inspired by them - their habitat is in a former english colonial area (but I don't know when they were named that).
I love smocking so much. I wish it wasn't so much in the realm of little girl fashion nowadays. Smocking for everyone! I feel like that blue dress could be worn now without issue though.
Thank you for the great lecture! I only brought smocking in relation to that elastic smocking and never actively noticed the decorative none-elastic version. It‘s so very cool. And I love that walking suit.
Thanks so much - I have really been enjoying the Co-Covid programme and this discussion about smocking was wonderful. I have taken interest in many needlecrafts over the years and smocking has always been a source of fascination - although I have not attempted it often. The capacity to both be decorative and yet 'shaping' as you described regarding different garments is so wonderful and I particularly LOVE what is loosely called 'artistic dress' - with all the elements of an 'organic' beauty I also enjoy in other arts of that era. Hope you get to do your PhD.
I used to make a lot of smocked children’s clothing, but since my girls grew out of smocked dresses I haven’t done much at all. However, I think you’ve inspired me to to dust off my pleater 😊 also excuses for more research -( not that I need excuses - fellow librarian here )
@Little Crocus perhaps this book can help you with darning over pleatwork which was used for the chemise hobbydocbox.com/Needlework/73904452-Fitzarbeit-buchlein-u.html (page 19)
I still have some that my mum made for me in the 1960's. She learned how to do it when she was in the W.I. (Women's Institute.) I was premature so she knitted and sewed most of my baby clothes as shop bought clothes were too big.
If anyone sees this and has resources on the type of smocking that is on the Mary of Hapsburg gown, I would absolutely adore some links/things to look further into. At some point when I have more sewing experience and also, money, I really want to replicate the Mary of Hapsburg gown.
It is a style of darning on pleats. We often refer to early forms of smocking as pleatwork embroidery since the term smocking mostly refers to garments from the 19th century and later. The Mary of Hungary Hemd uses pattern darning where the thread goes into and over the pleats. The designs are created by alternating the open spaces of the design.
In modern clothes, they'll use elastic thread to cause shirring and describe it as "smocking". But traditional smocking has no elastic; any stretch is from the stitch's movement.
I think that the gathering threads are ripped out after the decorative stitches are place. The diamond pattern of the top stitches lets the fabric stretch out. I am completely sure because I have not smocked anything.
Your enthusiasm is catching, the saffron dress was my favourite. Can I just say, in as much of a whisper as is possible.... it’s Victoria and Albert, not Victoria Albert!
I've always loved smocking!
Here is what I know: The 1779 (89?) smock top - they were the tops worn by English farmers, labourers, and sometimes tradesmen. Smocking was a technique to give the garment shape without losing any - fabric was expensive and it was handed down several times. The English countrymen hung onto their smocked shirts longer than the city folk felt was appropriate - there are several articles and such with men complaining about how embarrassing the country people were in their old fashioned dress.
The reason that smocking was brought back as a part of the reform dress movement, was because the Arts and Crafts community were all about highlighting the old crafts, and the way of life that a century of industrialization had almost eliminated.
Oh gosh, I never thought of it as a way to save fabric for reuse!
That seems very logical. The Yellow Silk Dress with the smocking in the center of the "V" seems like it would work very well as a maternity dress if you let out the smocking little by little as needed for the growing belly needs.
Thank you for mentioning the Eastern European smocking. I am just starting to learn that from a Belorussian traditional costume book (only available in Russian thankfully I know the language. ) The smocking is most used at the neckline, the cuffs and in later folk clothing, at the top of the shoulder. Most of them are thread counted and mimic other embroidery styles done traditionally in design/ shape. It does look a lot like the Hapsburg gown. I can probably help you with the Eastern European sources if you'd like. Your videos are helping me understand the technique better too. Thank you.
That was so fascinating! I'll confess I didn't really know what "smocking" was, so this was incredibly helpful. Thank you for connecting the historical technique to the current day, and some insights into the larger non-English uses. What an awesome overview!
You presented such beautiful examples, I really loved it.
When you mentioned the bishop collar, I thought of "bird" immediately and looked it up. Check out the northern or southern red bishop, maybe the name was inspired by them - their habitat is in a former english colonial area (but I don't know when they were named that).
Oh wow!
I am now also in love with smocking and in particular that blue Liberty & Co dress! It's gorgeous!!
I agree. That one is my favorite! ...perhaps even above the gorgeous Worth gowns.
I love smocking so much. I wish it wasn't so much in the realm of little girl fashion nowadays. Smocking for everyone! I feel like that blue dress could be worn now without issue though.
I just love the walking suit from Liberty and Co that is now currently in The Hague. There is something about that neckline that is just perfection.
Is t it great! I love that busy little print balanced by the long drape of the skirt.
Thank you for the great lecture! I only brought smocking in relation to that elastic smocking and never actively noticed the decorative none-elastic version. It‘s so very cool. And I love that walking suit.
That purple walking suit (1906-1907) is gorgeous! Thank you for this video.
Thank you, this was so informative! I lookforward to returning for your longer videos
Thanks so much - I have really been enjoying the Co-Covid programme and this discussion about smocking was wonderful. I have taken interest in many needlecrafts over the years and smocking has always been a source of fascination - although I have not attempted it often. The capacity to both be decorative and yet 'shaping' as you described regarding different garments is so wonderful and I particularly LOVE what is loosely called 'artistic dress' - with all the elements of an 'organic' beauty I also enjoy in other arts of that era. Hope you get to do your PhD.
Omg. I had 2 black and white cats like that. I love him.
I used to make a lot of smocked children’s clothing, but since my girls grew out of smocked dresses I haven’t done much at all. However, I think you’ve inspired me to to dust off my pleater 😊 also excuses for more research -( not that I need excuses - fellow librarian here )
Got yourself a new subscriber ... :)
Completely unrelated to smocking, you've got kind of a Drew Barrymore voice going on and it's really charming to listen to.
KITTEN/POTATO! ❤️
I might be obsessed with smocks now...
Hooray! My goal achieved ;)
Totally obsessed. I typed the comment only about a quarter of the way through. My obsession seems to be growing exponentially.
It would have been my first Costume College too 😭😭😭
Hello from central Ala. 🙋♀️
@Little Crocus perhaps this book can help you with darning over pleatwork which was used for the chemise hobbydocbox.com/Needlework/73904452-Fitzarbeit-buchlein-u.html (page 19)
omg that sweet fat potato!
the look on that cat's face.... lol~
I was asking my mom about some of my baby dresses that my grandmother made. She wasn't quite sure about the style. Now, we know. It's smocking.
I still have some that my mum made for me in the 1960's. She learned how to do it when she was in the W.I. (Women's Institute.) I was premature so she knitted and sewed most of my baby clothes as shop bought clothes were too big.
I think you would love the 15th and 16th century smocking
If anyone sees this and has resources on the type of smocking that is on the Mary of Hapsburg gown, I would absolutely adore some links/things to look further into. At some point when I have more sewing experience and also, money, I really want to replicate the Mary of Hapsburg gown.
It is a style of darning on pleats. We often refer to early forms of smocking as pleatwork embroidery since the term smocking mostly refers to garments from the 19th century and later. The Mary of Hungary Hemd uses pattern darning where the thread goes into and over the pleats. The designs are created by alternating the open spaces of the design.
It says your badge code isn’t valid. I tried typing and scanning.
i'm having the same issue.
Oh no! I think I fixed it. Try now 😊
@@LittleCrocus it works now thank you
So are the gathering threads actually elastic? Or is it just the stitch itself that gives it elasticity, and you could use any sewing thread?
In modern clothes, they'll use elastic thread to cause shirring and describe it as "smocking". But traditional smocking has no elastic; any stretch is from the stitch's movement.
I think that the gathering threads are ripped out after the decorative stitches are place. The diamond pattern of the top stitches lets the fabric stretch out. I am completely sure because I have not smocked anything.
Your enthusiasm is catching, the saffron dress was my favourite. Can I just say, in as much of a whisper as is possible.... it’s Victoria and Albert, not Victoria Albert!
"Bishop" refers to the bloused sleeve, not the entire blouse.
I love your potato!
Please consider talking to your vet about his weight. It's a serious health problem for all animals.
Thank you! Beanie is under proper veterinary supervision and is on a controlled diet.
@@LittleCrocus Im glad to hear that. :)