Magnum Energy Solar Power Upgrade
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- Опубліковано 19 жов 2024
- Since adding 4,500 Watts to my system about eight months ago, I needed to upgrade some bus bars and wiring to accommodate the extra power.
GROUND MOUNT PARTS:
15A Combiner Box Breaker: lddy.no/vlxe
100A 150VDC Breaker: lddy.no/vlxd
50A 300VDC Breaker: lddy.no/vlxb
MC4 Connector Extension: lddy.no/vlxa
UFO Clamp: lddy.no/vlx9
IronRidge Rail Connector: lddy.no/vlx5
IronRidge 3" Top Cap: lddy.no/vlx4
IronRidge XR-1000 Rails: lddy.no/vlx3
Magnum PT-100 Charge Controller: lddy.no/vlme
Midnight Solar Combiner Box: lddy.no/vlo0
Midnight solar surge protection (115): lddy.no/vlo5
Midnight solar surge protection (300): lddy.no/vlo7
Solar Panel Cable 10AWG H4: lddy.no/vloa
BASE SYSTEM:
Magnum Inverter: lddy.no/vllz
Magnum PT-100 Charge Controller: lddy.no/vlme
Battery Monitor Kit: lddy.no/vlmi
ME-ARTR Router: lddy.no/vlmn
Trojan Battery L-16-RE-B: lddy.no/vlmp
Midnight Solar Combiner Box: lddy.no/vlo0
Midnight Solar Combiner Box DISCO: lddy.no/vlnz
Midnight solar surge protection (115): lddy.no/vlo5
Midnight solar surge protection (300): lddy.no/vlo7
Solar Panel Cable 10AWG H4: lddy.no/vloa
Generator power cord: amzn.to/2OJmlzT
Power Inlet Box: amzn.to/2DDzxWj
Generac Manual Transfer: amzn.to/2xJPpjG
A510C Pro/Tran2 Manual Transfer Switch:
amzn.to/2IboWAr
MidNite Solar Breaker 2A 150VDC MNE-PV2
-TEMCo WC0470 - 40' (20' Blk, 20' Red) 4/0 Gauge:
amzn.to/2IeSc9a
-TEMCO Terminal Lug: amzn.to/2QWq279
-Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter:
amzn.to/2ONExIN
-DROK Digital Multimeter:
Small Torque Wrench: amzn.to/3lriSYh
Large Torque Wrench: amzn.to/2NhB1uR
Use these files at your own risk:
Design Doc: drive.google.c...
Parts List: drive.google.c...
#SolarPower
😎 great job, I liked the sound effect when the sun was hitting the solar panels in the morning. Sounded like a helicopter warming up! Lol 👍
cool toys, I had to laugh when I read this comment. I had the video done except for some bad sound on the time-lapse. So I riffled through the sound effects and found this. I think it is some kind of turbine engine winding up. It makes no sense but I said I like it so its going in!
@@HomesteadEngineering that's Cool
Very Cool & good idea! Love how clean your setup is too. I'm fairly sure that YOU are the person that inspired me to get a 2nd MagnaSine Inverter and necessary hardware after seeing how you did it. Been waiting almost a full year now on the 2nd one to come in.....can't find em anywhere yet🤠
The Magnum system has been great and adding the EG4-LL batteries has really improved the performance. I do see a Magnum inverter for sale on Craigslist (used) in Cincinnati but nothing new. Thanks!
@@HomesteadEngineering we’re seeing similar results since switching to a LiFePO4 bank. We went with 4 of the 300ah PowerQueen units. So far…. so good!
one of mt clients has the same system though badly neglected. Im replacing his dead flooded cell units with lithium ion as hes not very comfy with mechanical or electrical power systems. I absolutely love you system, sweet strong and clean. No Such thing as too big a Bus Bar, well done indeed.
Sounds good. Thanks!
I do like the magnum system. I am building an outback system as well. Looking good
I am a big fan of Magnum and this is the only "flaw" I have found so far. Thanks!
Nice job. I did something very similar to our Magnum. Even though the wire was only 12 inches long I did not like pushing 5000 watts through the #4 AWG. I did not change out the DC buss but I did add another # 4 AWG wire to share the load.
I love my Magnum system but I think this is a design flaw. When I purchased the pre-wired dual panel enclosure for $1,650 I was under the impression that I could run up to 4 of the MS4448 inverters and 8 PT-100 charge controllers. This is not the case. I never even really looked at it assuming that Magnum got their part right and I needed to focus on my part. Roy Amberg pointed it out to me when I added the additional panel or I may never have even noticed it. I did run it with 13,000 Watts of solar connected for 8 months without issue. I made this change because I was afraid that the perfect storm of clear bright and cold day with low charge on the bank might put me over the edge.
@@HomesteadEngineering You are right it is a design flaw. I can not find any literature on how much solar you can add to it. You would think it would be part of the nomenclature. Roy is right as usual. He has helped me out a lot over the years.
It is possible to add additional Bat(-) connections for PT-100s directly to the DC Bus plate on the upper end of the shunt -- but there is no bus plate for Bat(+) , just the breaker poles. I took an FW-BBUS plate (rated for 500A) from Outback and attached it to the battery side of my two large DC breakers. The holes in the FW-BBUS line up exactly with the breaker extensions -- and it leaves me 3 3/8" stud openings, and 4 1/4" stud openings for BAT+ connections. ALso, I can use both sides of the plate , so its a LOT of room.
I am contemplating replacing BAT(-) plate on the inverter side of the shunt with a Midnite MNSHUNT Busbar .. but may just bolt an MN3-015-1 into one of the 3/8 studs to get some extra bolt locations.
Man that's a tight fit... I know mine is hard its hell to wire it up keep it up brother
Will do
On your inverter A/C output have you ever noticed the voltage fluctuating? I have basically the same inverter you have, only thing is mine is 24v. On mine I notice the A/C output voltage will fluctuate between 117-125. It ramps up slowly to 125 then sharply drops off to 117 this does this every 15-20 seconds. Its even noticeable when running motors or even lights. Does not matter if there is no load or fully loaded inverter. I contacted magnum and was told the voltage was in spec. Im trying to determine if my inverter is fauly, or if this is how they work. I would greatly appreciate it if you could check yours to see if you notice this, or even a quick video monitoring the voltage. I only have one inverter so I cant compare it to another one my self. By the way very impressive sized solar set up!
Cody, I think my system stays mostly around 123V. Maybe fluctuates from 121 to 124. You can see this in this video: ua-cam.com/video/_0SEdEngx_Q/v-deo.html
Look at the voltage on the blue monitors for L1 and L2. It is also at 123V right now. Thanks!
@@HomesteadEngineering Thanks for responding. I see yours seems to only fluctuate by 3 volts max. Ill have to look into mine more as to why I get around 7 volts of fluctuation
Cody, having the same issue. Do you know what ended up fixing it?
That should handle the loads nicely
Hello Roy, I think your the one who pointed out this problem to begin with. What do you think about doing the ground side the same way: necessary? I was also considering bolting the bus bar directly to the battery connections (the 1&2) and eliminating the cables all together. Thanks!
@@HomesteadEngineering there's a nice size bus bar if I'm thinking correct. Bolt them to it if I'm thinking correct. It's just a convenience ground bar.
@@royamberg9177 Yes, there is. Thanks!
You do need the other side done similarly -- but I would put it on the existing plate at the shunt. That side is carrying the same load. You might consider replacing the DC plate with the MNSHUNT Busbar from Midnight - it provides 4 studs and a terminal busbar instead of the flat plate Magnum includes. Its my only fault with my Magnum enclosure system.
Like your pantry the lead acid batteries have a finite life, time and discharge cycles. What’s your battery refresh routine so you don’t end up with an old bank?
Hello Rob, I am starting year 6 on my lead acid battery bank. My plan is to switch to a (30kWh) LiFePO4 bank in the near future. I expect that will last the rest of my life but I will be open to replacing it if better tech comes along. Thanks!
@@HomesteadEngineering I agree the LiFePO4 are the way to go. Good bank for your buck!
What did you do about your negative bus bar? I currently have a system very similar to yours but with only 2 PT100 charge controllers. I will be adding 2 more pt100s this spring but I have nowhere to land the + and - connections from them on the stock bus bars. Did you combine the - connections somehow?
I would install positive and negative bus bars like I showed in this video. That should be good enough to land everything up. I am not an Electrician so I am not giving advice, just saying what I would do. Thanks!
If we had an EMP go off would it takeout solar?
May I ask want is your electric bill like?
I am not an expert on EMP's but I think lead acid is better because it has no battery monitor system with small electronics. Also, I think the SolArk's are EMP resistive but in general most system are not. I think the panels themselves would also need some sort of surge protection added. Again, I am not an expert on EMP or CME's.
My electric bills ran $350ish/month before solar and $90ish/month now. I would say a significant portion of the savings was due to insulation, LED's, power strips, DIY solar water heater, and more conservation in general since installing solar.
@@HomesteadEngineering
Thanks!
Considering LiFePO4?
Yes. When these FLA eventually give up, that is where I am headed. 30kWh bank is what I have in mind. Thanks!
2:23 “want no power in this box” where’s the sense of adventure in that?
I did get knocked to floor while I was originally building this. For me, once is enough!
@@HomesteadEngineering I am a gutless wonder around electricity if I could cut power at the power plant I would
@@jerryanderson9502 Now your talking!