Awesome! I like how you cleaned and cleaned again the metal. I believe this is why some people have problems with rust bluing. I just experimented spraying bluing solution on a Win 1873 I just rust blued. I only did it with the first couple of applications. I used Birchwood Casey's Browning solution. Heat the part up, heat gun or propane torch, to around 275F and apply. Then wait for a nice flash rusting to happen and boil in rain or distilled water. It gets a really nice deep black color after 6-8 applications. Excellent video...thanks!
Sir, I just want to say thank you for everything you post and your block of instructions. Since I first began my gunsmithing journey 4 years ago at SDI I've learned so much from your tutelage to now working out of my garage shop. You have been a great influence and I appreciate everything you are doing. Its a rare opportunity to learn from one of the best in the business. Do you have a Patreon account?
I have been building a sxs percussion .50 for the past few years now, and am at the final stages of finishing to have it ready for tuning the loads and bear season. Bluing this rifle has been a big ticket item on the todo list and having this exact product and seeing it done start to finish with a good explanation of every step has me pretty excited to see how good my bluing will turn out. Thank you for putting this together, hobbyists like me know these type of videos and knowledge are worth their weight in gold.
Scotty, Would you explain your blueing room layout, explaining what each tank is and how they are set up including your heating system? Give us an idea of how to set up our own systems Thank you for all your help, you are an amazing teacher.
Now that is interesting Scott! I have worked out that I don;t have the finances to set up for hot bluing and so was looking at cold rust bluing. How do you think about using this product on pistols and rifles?? Reagards, Andrew, Colima, Mexico
I have a 43 year old Colt Python Hunter that was given to me, It is a nice gun with one exception it has rust on it. one off its previous owners did not store it properly I am guessing High Humidity. One side is good a couple of spots the other is well it looks like someone just sprinkled water on it and let it set. I would like to know if you would get it sanded and filed and re-blued I have watched a few of your videos. Well you obviously know what you are doing and you are meticulous. If you're interested please reply and let me know where I could send pictures to you so you could have a better look at this project. Thank for your time and the info you put out on your videos. Jim.
When you spayed that atomized acetone next to that electric motor, it made the hair on the back of my neck stand up. A spark inside that motor housing might make the biggest fireball you never see. Please find a different way. Spin it by hand.
I have some experience. Why do you use a torch rather than a heat gun? Your results are terrific, but just wondering. Also, air brushing the rusting agent what looks like rather heavily worries me some compared to the directions that I remember. Those directions cautioned to not overlap if using clean application pads. They also wanted thinner rust agents applications and less rusting time as the multiple sequences progressed. I use a damp box, and one mistake I made was not being quick enough to stop the first rusting application...undesireable pittng occurred, which I had to fix. Fun to do, and your video ad work are very good. Thanks
It's real rust bluing. You just don't have to wait for the surface to build rust over time. This solution flash rust right away. I have used the Mark Lee on about 5 or 6 shotguns/rifles. It doesn't turn blue over time. It's dark grey until you apply oil and then it gets a nice blue black. You can also use Birchwood Casey's Browning solution. You just have to make sure the metal is hot...275-300F.
I have used and still using this to re-blued P38, SW model 27. The results were really good.
Awesome! I like how you cleaned and cleaned again the metal. I believe this is why some people have problems with rust bluing. I just experimented spraying bluing solution on a Win 1873 I just rust blued. I only did it with the first couple of applications. I used Birchwood Casey's Browning solution. Heat the part up, heat gun or propane torch, to around 275F and apply. Then wait for a nice flash rusting to happen and boil in rain or distilled water. It gets a really nice deep black color after 6-8 applications. Excellent video...thanks!
I always look forward to absorbing your knowledge. Keep on keeping on.
Used this product today stellar results i have even used it over worn finsh and it restored it as new.. great product
This is the best stuff I have ever found for getting a deep blue like they used to do.
Hi Scott,
Thank you so much for doing this video on my Mark Lee Express Blue. You have a great setup and do a great job of explaining the process.
Mark you make an excellent product, easy to use , outstanding results
@@kruptwilson6257 Thanks
I always look forward to your videos.
Sir, I just want to say thank you for everything you post and your block of instructions. Since I first began my gunsmithing journey 4 years ago at SDI I've learned so much from your tutelage to now working out of my garage shop. You have been a great influence and I appreciate everything you are doing. Its a rare opportunity to learn from one of the best in the business. Do you have a Patreon account?
The rifling inside the barrel doesn’t get worked on, what happens inside?
Perfect timing seeing as I just received my bottle from Brownells! Thank you Scotty!
i have used this product and have found it to be excellent. easy to use , outstanding results.
Great smith that shares his knowledge! Love Scotts videos.
Scott, Great instructional video. I will be trying this method versus the old acid and damp heat box method. Thanks, RH.
Two vids in just a couple days! This is great.
I have been building a sxs percussion .50 for the past few years now, and am at the final stages of finishing to have it ready for tuning the loads and bear season.
Bluing this rifle has been a big ticket item on the todo list and having this exact product and seeing it done start to finish with a good explanation of every step has me pretty excited to see how good my bluing will turn out.
Thank you for putting this together, hobbyists like me know these type of videos and knowledge are worth their weight in gold.
As always a great tutorial!👏🏻💯🇺🇸
Scotty,
Would you explain your blueing room layout, explaining what each tank is and how they are set up including your heating system? Give us an idea of how to set up our own systems Thank you for all your help, you are an amazing teacher.
he does at the very end of the video, and offers less expensive budget ootions for some of the stuff. this video is a GEM 💎
Man Scotty so good ,it's like he's moving in slow motion,or that old shrooms are coming back after 30 years,,need t9 get my eyes checked
Maybe I missed it do you varnish or lacquer the inside of the barrels before you start?
It’s cool seeing you here on UA-cam Scotty! Nice work. This is the Handyman Sam channel I was talking to you about.
Could you take to finish to a high polish 3000 grit and use this application of Mark lees rust blue?
thank you for helping us beginners
What kind of motor is required for that carding wheel?
I love these videos!
Looks great! Thank you.
Looks good as always patience & imagination.
Hi Scott the hold solution that you use on the barrels to prevent rust before you do the bluing , do you have a specific brand that you use?
Thank you this is great!
Always a pro. Does this not need a steam box to rust? Or will more coats make up the difference.
it rusts immediately
The heat activates it.
What type of grinder do you use for the carding wheel?
Definitely much less work than the other method and steel wool. Looks really good too.
Now that is interesting Scott! I have worked out that I don;t have the finances to set up for hot bluing and so was looking at cold rust bluing. How do you think about using this product on pistols and rifles?? Reagards, Andrew, Colima, Mexico
The only way I blue in my shop is rust blue. If you explain it to people they are usually fine with it
I have a 43 year old Colt Python Hunter that was given to me, It is a nice gun with one exception it has rust on it. one off its previous owners did not store it properly I am guessing High Humidity. One side is good a couple of spots the other is well it looks like someone just sprinkled water on it and let it set. I would like to know if you would get it sanded and filed and re-blued I have watched a few of your videos. Well you obviously know what you are doing and you are meticulous. If you're interested please reply and let me know where I could send pictures to you so you could have a better look at this project. Thank for your time and the info you put out on your videos. Jim.
Would you recommend this for rebluing a vintage Weaver scope?
No, I never recommend heating or boiling a scope. I’d use a cold blue. It’s probably aluminum though with means the bluing won’t take to it at all
When you spayed that atomized acetone next to that electric motor, it made the hair on the back of my neck stand up. A spark inside that motor housing might make the biggest fireball you never see. Please find a different way. Spin it by hand.
What is “909” again?
I had the same question.... look on Brownells for Dicro-clean no.909
I have some experience. Why do you use a torch rather than a heat gun? Your results are terrific, but just wondering. Also, air brushing the rusting agent what looks like rather heavily worries me some compared to the directions that I remember. Those directions cautioned to not overlap if using clean application pads. They also wanted thinner rust agents applications and less rusting time as the multiple sequences progressed. I use a damp box, and one mistake I made was not being quick enough to stop the first rusting application...undesireable
pittng occurred, which I had to fix. Fun to do, and your video ad work are very good. Thanks
It looks black to me. Not sure that will pass as real rust blue
a good bluing job looks black. once it starts to get worn down, and scratched, the actual blue color starts showing more
@@jackgreenstalk777 oh good I was going to try the Mark Lee on some small parts. Is that a good product?
Blue black is the color you are looking for right off the bluing line. Like jimmy said as it wears the black fades and the blue stays
It's real rust bluing. You just don't have to wait for the surface to build rust over time. This solution flash rust right away. I have used the Mark Lee on about 5 or 6 shotguns/rifles. It doesn't turn blue over time. It's dark grey until you apply oil and then it gets a nice blue black. You can also use Birchwood Casey's Browning solution. You just have to make sure the metal is hot...275-300F.
Hello how much of a cane and nitrate in one liter of water thanks for answering me
Nice, but pretty sure there's no way the factory could spend that much time bluing a barrel
difference between an artist/craftsman and mass production
Difference between old parts and fresh off the mint.
Hi only your face is showiñg extreemly But i like to see experiment about blackning sorry
Skip to 16:00. Actually, skip the whole thing. Mark Lee's process isn't explained at all.
What a jerky comment. Sad you have to attack such a kind professional