3D Printer CNC Makes Spectrum Thing
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- Опубліковано 7 лют 2025
- People say 3D printers can't be CNC routers...HA FOOLS! In today's video we are using a cheap Creality CR-10 3D printer to cut things from wood and acrylic. By using a big brushless motor from a RC car, a speed controller and a power supply salvaged from an old 3D printer, it cut objects that would require a CNC worth $$$.
Components:
3D printer: goo.gl/f6gTkb
Power supply: amzn.to/2RyV4F6
Motor+ESC: amzn.to/2RuNBad
Drill chuck: amzn.to/2RuNXgP
Cutting tools: amzn.to/2LV2aPa
Servo tester: amzn.to/2CPtdIC
I decided to really challenge it by cutting 18mm thick MDF board and 4mm acrylic to make a big DIY headphone stand. It was going to be built from 4 large pieces of MDF and 3 equally big acrylic pieces. Each piece have a cutting time of almost 2 hours! The time it takes to cut objects is what makes this a pretty crappy CNC... I then finished off with some oil and attached LED lights under the base. LIT!
TECH2C: goo.gl/jHEfMT
DIY Perks template files: sellfy.com/p/W...
Post processor file: goo.gl/ncFCPS
3D printed motor mount: goo.gl/amruFr
Music:
Evening Train - Pold
Vlad Gluschenko - Dawn
James Flamestar - The No Pants Dance
Blue Wednesday - Need You Around
DJ Quads - Cha Cha Cha - Розваги
I'm the SWEDISH BOI! 👦
N i'm the Norwegian boi
Im the sweadish boy tooo hej
What time is there now
I’m dutch
Hello it’s ya boi Simon Sörensen from Sweden
A new video from Simon?
Step 1: Like the video
Step 2: Watch the video
I love this Swedish bastard
Fake fan.
I try to wait to like the video. I have the crazy believe that YT will not use my like in the algorith if I don't watch half the video first.
@@zart3374 Bruh
@@PH1LZ
Bruh.
IKEA boy*
i have also been messing around with cnc on my printer, here a helpful hint, In your start gcode add a G92 command to your Start script, Example G92 X0 Y0 manually move the tool bit or head, where you want you Zero x 0.0 and y 0.0 to start at, Usally at the corner of the work piece, you can also us this with your Z axis, And make sure to add a M90 in the End script after the G28 of X and Y axis , if you start a Cut and you stopped it, Reboot the printer or manually do a M90 as all the zero offset will remain in effect till the M90 is called .
super helpful man great comment
I had a damn heart attack at the mains shock at 4:14
I almost shit my pants dude
I'm so glad I am not alone XD
Me also lol.
Dude you're such an inspiration. I got into 3D printing as a minor hobby and I've found my passion for it grow with every project. Your stuff just keeps showing how much more there still is to do! Just got all the original equipment to convert my Ender 3 into a mini etching machine and can't wait for the absolute chaos of failure to get it right
Really nice job sir! Nice to see people willing to try new things. As a few others have mentioned, I think you'd see some significant improvement in the quality of your cuts and more predictable behavior, if you switched to a 3mm single flute end mill and ran it at ~1000mm/min feedrate, rather than 400. It seems counter intuitive, but at the high RPMs of the brushless motor you're using (I'd guess ~30,000 RPM) if you move too slowly you actually cause a poorer cut with more burning because the flutes of the end mill are recutting the previously removed material, and the flats of the end mill are just causing friction in the slot the cutter made. At least this has been my experience with my DIY desktop type CNC at similar spindle speeds.
4:15 Someone in this video is having an ElectroBOOM moment? :D
yes certainly
Hi Simon! It is amazing that the CR-10 can cut so deep! The result is amazing!
I also want to tell you that I noticed how much you put into the planning and editing of the video. All the camera angles at the various sites, the sound effects when you move picture-in-picture, and the cuts to speed up assembly process, etc.
The Mario theme sone shot. Wow... I love the "fly"over" the CR-10 to reveal the next shot (12:05). Great job SWEDISH BOI !
The most impressive thing for me is you how you stuck at it even with the failures. I can get so disheartened when things don't work. Great job.
Simon, your one of my favorite UA-cam channels!!!
And why would you dislike quality like this?
This is so cool!
Had this idea cross my mind a year ago, didn't see many attempts at it and came across the Inventables X-carve. A few hours of research later and i had the 1000mm version on the way. Wife was not happy when I explained to her that I had spent $2k on a 2am impulse purchase LOL. She didn't mind as much when i started selling some work off it.
Cool, Funny and Useful Video For 3D Printer Holders My Friend From Swedish -)
Thank You.
Man you’re awesome. From lithophanes to coloured lithophanes to printed sneakers and then this. You up your game over and over
Hi, I have been busy transforming my ender 3 into a CNC milling machine for a month. It is tricky but now the results are awesome! For the motor, I have used a twin electric bench grinder (as it was the only "strong" motor I had the time being) and a flexible shaft to mount it where the nozzle assembly was mounted. I set the rpm of the grinder to 10000 (maximum) and I used a smaller tool (1-2mm is good) for this type of printers with V-bearings and this type of setup. I also had the speed on xy plane at 5-10mm/sec (10 maximum). That way (after some calculations) the loads on the cutting tip (endmill) and thus on the v bearings are minimum. You can adjust the settings depending on the material. For plywood, these settings work great (1-5mm) but for plastic t's sh**. That's because of the high rpm. So you can try different settings for different materials. Unfortunately, this type of printers can't stand high torque motors as the loads on the V-Bearings will be high. And for the gcode, I haven't changed anything on the ender 3. I downloaded a post process for marlin from GitHub (mpcnc) and it works great. You just have to add a G28 command and a good set up on the fusion cam.
Hi, thanks for the comment could you please tell me where to add G28 command?
Awesome idea. I seriously didn't think that you'd succeed with this project thinking of the rigidity a CNC mill usually needs. Congratulations on that build. I'm looking forward to seeing it in further project of you.
2:47 i like how he repainted his whole car white just to flex on us a bit more 😝🤣
He barely showed his car, and you call that flexing. Okay
@@BlackSlimShady It's cause he clearly has more than one car
@@bernardhollands5027 again, he barely showed his car. And you call it flexing. That's called jealousy
@@BlackSlimShady again, he was clearly not flexing, but I also did find it odd he used 2 different cars . He is young maybe one is his dads and one is his mams
@@bernardhollands5027 hence my comment. He isn't flexing.
I have 2 CNC routers, a CNC laser, and had several 3d printers. I can say I enjoyed watching , the struggle is real with CNC routers LOL
You should make a 3D printed vacuum hose mount near the end of the mill.
First I didn't really know what I am watching but then noticed that effort put in this video, then just enjoyed a lot because hey this is fun to watch. Good information, thanks!
You need to add a vacuum to the CNC
Also you could use the nylon filament for the mounting. Since it’s heat resistant and will absorb vibration
Your videos really never get boring! Kinda always looking forward to those now. After 10 hours of studying this made my day :)
4:15 when he got shocked i'm wearing headphones and i got scared i almost shit myself
Lol same here. 😵⚡😂
I almost dropped my phone
i nearly fell out of my chair lol
crap boy here.
Can i join the club?
Great conversion! You did a supper job! Thanks for all the info to do this conversion!
No doubt these machines are proving way more "expandable" than one would expect. Nice job!
Super great video 👍
I realy appreciate that u are the only one who did a detailed tutorial
wrong tool! use one flute. and bigger feedrate. and lower deep per cut.
yes! I didn't think i would have to scroll through so many comments to find someone pointing this out.
Also, he should do at least two passes, so the cuttings have someplace to go. And I'd use 3D adaptive clearing...
This is very inspiring!! Believe me if I had another printer, its future would have been traced by the end of this video! Really glad I subscribed 1.5 years ago! This is like watching myself and all the crazy projects! Congratz on your success!
The real subscriber watches even when the video is still in 360p ... I'm just kidding it doesn matter
Dude it’s 720
No it’s 360p
Mines 1080p ..
just wait for it.
Mines in 4k... (me)...shut up and watch it 😂
To me it’s 1080
UA-cam videos upload in 360p and about 15min after uploading render to 480p-4k.
Hi Simon, I'm a Lathe operator from Germany, and I have a tip for you: if you mill hard stuff like this wood, your end-mill is way too long. just take a much shorter one or cut it down in length wit an angel grinder, just be careful to not damage or brake the tip. your CR10 will go much better and easier through the material ^^
Very good video. 3D printer CNC router hybrids have been of great interest to me for a long time now. But as I found a few years ago when I set out to make such a machine it's isn't as simple as it looks.
Essentially the control for each system is the same but I found that there are two major differences of each machine that stop you from being able to make a high functioning hybrid.
The torque required and the weight of the components are the two main differences. Obviously, you require much more torque from your motors when routing then you do when you 3D print or else you will run into the same problems as you did in this video. That is fine though all it means is that you need to use nema 23 stepper motors or higher, instead of the commonly used in 3D printers, nema 17. But with that extra powers brings extra weight. And when you increase the weight you decrease the maximum speed you machine can travel before you start to see artifacts due to vibrations. Not a problem when routing which is usually a medium speed smooth operation. 3D printing, on the other hand, is fast and sometimes far from smooth.
Let's say you manage to increase the torque of your machine without sacrificing and speed. Then you run into the problem of how you transmit that torque. When routing at high speeds belts are not the best option because they can slip and will become slack over time in a high street environment. Some machines like the x-carve get away with it but even they are very underpowered. So you move to using screws usually ACME or ball screws to run each axis. Again these will limit your maximum travel speed because of their added weight on the gantry and because they are generally slower than belts.
End of the day unless you have an incredibly rigid machine that will not suffer from rapid movements of 3D printing when building a hybrid you need to choose. Do you want a 3D printer that can mill slowly or do you want a CNC router that can 3D print slowly.
Anyway, great video man I'm impressed with your results. Just thought I would share my findings on this topic.
Yeah with belts driven cnc what you would need is to use gear reduction, that way you can still have decent speed and the torque. But in the end it's just best to use your printer to make a cnc(I'm going to use mine to upgrade some parts on my cnc). I have a diy belt driven cnc with no gear reduction so its as fast as my printer, it can cut wood faster than seen here (2 hours for each piece!!! Wow that's painfully slow) But I mainly cut foam with it to make molds. I'll add gear reduction at some point.
Do you have any good forums I could go for to help build myself a CNC?
Good info man!
@@towers3372 look up "mpcnc" on thingyverse it stands for mostly printed cnc, I'm sure there must be a link or something plus there are some guys on UA-cam who build it.
You miss the point of what I'm saying yes belt driven cnc routers are avaliable but all will have the same inherent flaws. They will be limited to the stress they can be put under before the belts and are far from able to meet engineering tolerances because the belts will loosen overtime and need to be tensioned throwing off any calibration my may have done. I know this because I own an x-carve which uses belts and nema 17 stepper motors like the mpcnc. I have also designed and built my machine which uses ball screws, higher torque motors and stepper driver boards rather than chips.
I own the x carve because it has a large workspace of 800mm × 800mm and yes it could cut each part of this project out in under an hour to a hobby suitable level of accuracy but my machine will stay within tolerance overtime and be able to cut each part out in a few minutes. The only reason I don't always use it is because it has a much smaller 400mm x 400mm workspace.
@@isaackvasager9957 Cool, yeah I've got one with 23's just because I was going for speed, I cut at 80ips and rapids @120. For the gearing I was just talking about getting even more speed closer to a 3d printer, but as I said its best just to have a dedicated cnc. And yes if you get quality belts, stretching is a minimal problem(in the 5years I've had mine I've had to adjust then 2 time and have never had a slip) also if one is worried about stretching and still want speed especially over longer distances I would go with R&P over anything else.
x-carves belts are junk from what I saw when I was looking at them a few years back, not to mention just by looking at them the whole frame is not stiff enough. That's one thing with the mpcnc it also looks like it will be flimsy, if I was to build one I would look into something more solid than the conduit... maybe something like gas pipe or the like.
I normally like to play UA-cam videos on my tv while I do my homework but I can’t with yours bc it’s too entertaining lol I love them! My homework can wait
4:15 you scared me :(
Hey Pewd... uh I mean Simon. Great project and video. I Didn't expect the CR10 to be able to become a CNCR10. Im impressed. Kudos to both of you!
@4.16 scared the hell out of me
You never fail to surprise me and hold my interest. Another job well done. I hope you keep it up.
Awesome
Well done! A very useful semi/manual CNC drilling machine. If drill motor get too hot leaving supply and axis motors cold maybe the next improvement must be a more powerful drill motor I think. In any case really good project.
4:16 got me lol and im an electrician
Only swedish people have the cleanest workshop. Good on you sir! Love your work..
4:15 That scared the shit out of me.
I just saw the video for that stand yesterday from DIY Perks, now here we are...
The electric shock made me jump even though I was totally expecting it D:
Awesome, Love seeing you push the limits of these machines!
Super cheap and easy double sticky tape alternative, place masking tape on wood and masking tap on bed, apply super glued to masking tape and push the two together, presto. If you want to get fancy put super glue activator on the piece of tape that doesn't have glue. This is a very common work holding method for cnc routers and it makes everything super easy.
I see a fellow no mans sky player!
Don't necessarily have a CR-10, but the little tutorial about setting up the code should actually help me a lot to have my CNC cut too! Great help, and awesome project.
That CAN'T be good for the CR-10. Plywood in the v-slots and on the belts...
Can we get this Swedish Boi to host Meme Review so he can afford a new CR-10??
can we get swedish boi a crying jordan face when he finally burn out the x axis motors
Well, considering he has atleast 4 more 3dprinters, i think he aint crying himself to sleep LOL
He made it pretty clear that doing what he was doing would basically destroy the printer or risk doing so...at least it was clear to me!
You totally got me with the "zap".. Always impressed with your cool projects and dedication to problem solving to get past hurdles. Great video..!!
How about you make a droping bomb rc plane!! love your vids too
yeeeeeeeeeeeeeea 100%% agree on that one
Ilike explosive
Two words
Flying flamethrower
Well it's just a sevo that unclips the bomb. Done. You literally only have to plug the servo in a free channel on the receiver
Dude you need to post more videos. I just rewatch all of your old stuff. You would blow up if you posted more, your videos or top notch.
You might want to reconsider your choices if you feel the need to remodel a 3D printer into a CNC-milling machine.
Cause there are many problems with that.
Sure - 3D printers started as remodelled CNC-machines but that way around is safe. A milling-machine has to handle a lot higher forces than a 3D printer - it needs to be a lot sturdier.
3D printers simply are not up for that task (as you noticed). It will work for really soft materials, but even just wood is stretching it - it has to move a lot slower, the surface finish will not be nearly as good, and even with those downside it will very likely end up slowly but surely destroying the printer as the whole thing is not sturdy enough.
You'd have to replace the whole frame and pretty much the whole mechanics for it to withstand harder materials - at which point you have replaced the whole machine and now have 2 standing around and you might have just gotten a CNC-machine in the first place.
TL:DR - you need to replace the whole machien which make just getting a CNC-kit a lot better.
Any CNC kit recommendations?
@@towers3372 Sorry no, i don't have either as i can get parts produced for the material cost at a local company.
@David "I'm a mechanical engineer and a good chunk of your argument is BS."
Such a great mechanical engineer that you can not even find a single fault in my argument to point out.
Sure - i could also use a phone to dig a hole in the ground - doesn't make it a good idea.
@David "or some bullshit like that. Clearly, you have no understanding of mechanical creep, elastic deformation and yield stresses."
Ah of course i have no idea of structural mechanic cause a random person claims that 3D printers are designed strong enough to sustain prolonged periods of high stress despite them being so flimsy that even just high speed printing can wear out the parts in just a year or 2.
If you use the vacuum while you are machining the parts, it could cool the motor and keep the area dust free. Print a housing that surrounds the spindle motor and extends to the cutter. A brush type end for a vacuum could help with the varying depth of cut and keep the part being machined clear of dust.
*Just want more RC projects ❤*
I really do enjoy this video. Although your first try didn't work but at the end you proved nothing is impossible for simon!!
Appreciate your work
Cheers from 🇮🇳
New video was awesome why did you delite it?
Yeah. Why?
It was not responding in most countries and processing seemed to have stuck. It will be up re-uploaded soon.
@@RcLifeOn oke thanks simon
Thanks for anwser
@@RcLifeOn great to hear it will be re uploaded! :)
I have been interested and watching 3D printer videos for a long time on UA-cam but never saw your channel till the chocolate one. I have gone back and watched many of your older videos. They are great 👍
Keep up that great work ^_^
You got a new subscriber
I should say the printed shoes was a cool video and I loved the rapid drink cooler, I may have to make one of those for myself
Haha
he's the Swedish guy, just that you know
Love the finished product, but dang! 10hrs cutting!!
Cheers, Patrick
8:44 square hole funny hole? :D
squareholefunnyhole.funnyfile
Wow, Fantastic job! The perseverance paid off. Great idea to use a brushless motor. Interesting to see it overheat, but a simple fan saved the day. Liked, Subscribed and Commented, lol
This video hurts me physically as a machinist
Same here!!!! Haha.
It is more like a toy or for small home projects nobody is planning on milling a V8 with this. And it is a $350 printer with like a $50 mod. Good learning tool for CAD programs and understanding basic concepts.
As an aerospace engineer I found it interesting, this is good for small home DIY people, I was surprised it managed to cut 18mm MDF, I thought it would have destroyed it. If you are making small plastic parts at home then this would be a cheap home made CNC machine, but we don't pay machinist to think, just to press the start button 🤣🤣🤣
@David Your reply was irrelevant, Thanks
@@pmiller4799 we are irrelevant thanks
Thank you for all the money and hard work you put into these. I know you enjoy doing it and would probably do it anyway, but sharing with us is really awesome.
U should 3d print a bro fist and send it to PewDiePie
Wow this was very informative. I built my own CNC with 3d printed parts a with a 500W spindle motor. I know how to engrave but cutting out shapes seemed very difficult for me! Thanks for showing me the ropes and as always, love your vids! They really look like a lot of time and effort was put into it.
I came so early that the Video is only ay 360p
That's what she said!
Love this build! great job - way to think outside the box. In the end, my guess is that you probably thought up a LOT of other uses for a CNC machine. you seem to have a lot of space in your workshop, so you might want to consider a dedicated CNC machine (about the size of the CR-10), but one that will:
1) be able to handle harder woods and possibly aluminum.
2) be able to cut materials at a faster rate.
oh... and either a built in vacuum or a dedicated box around the CNC will not only keep things cleaner, but, if constructed correctly, will significantly cut down on noise!!!!
keep up the GREAT work!
Russ from Coral Springs, Florida, USA
3:20 "Entendi esa referencia"
Pewds
Otia alguien que habla español
I would’ve never thought that someone would take one of the most high quality 3d printers and make it unable to do what it’s supposed to do. But on the other hand it’s awesome!
Why only 360p?
Wud? 1080 here. Maybe YT was still generating the HD versions when you watched it.
@@RainerK. is that a thing? Ok then, thank you
@@johannesulltang8122 yea.. UA-cam tell newly added video may take time that u can watch at higher quality
You were watching it before the HD version had finished processing.
Add a vaccume-suction tube near the bit . Noisy but less sawdust + cooling.
The Mill on the wobbly CR10 makes me vomit. But keep going.
So excited when watching your video. I just bought 3D printer yesterday, and I come to see your videos a lot. Thanks for amazing ideas and you get 1 more subscriber from Vietnam!
P/s: Sorry if my English is isn't correct! :D
well, I feel like I cant code anymore.
Found ur channel couple days ago and wow! You are very entertaining and creative. Very smart to!!
Excellent build! It came out great. Not quite ready to hack apart my CR-10S but maybe some day!
Always happy when a new video comes up... you inspired me so dramatic... im getting a freak now on 3d printing :P
Good to see that your channel is still doing well, I've been a veiwer scince the original anet a8 vid.
I've had an anet a8 ever since.
Would be awesome to see a video about the different filaments. When to use them, how to use them, which kinds are there, which works best for different stuff and so on :)
really like your sense of humor in your editing, and of course your creativeness and talent
Looks like it's time to make a CNC machine. Awesome video!
Love it! The content was really interesting, the final thing came out really nice and the video editing style, was really cool!
Keep up the great work!
Great project/video. One suggestion though would be to use a better End Mill. I know that you probably tried to used what you had at hand, but Dremel “EndMills” are not the best. Even worst is the drill. A drill is not design to cut sideways, or in X and Y if you prefer. It’s an axial tool.
As I said, regardless of that, great project!
Keep quickly reminding us to like at the end of the video. It's easy to forget and move on to the next video. Excellent work.
You did it again, make the CR-10 shine, well done 👍
This kind of motor has a continuous working time of about 30 minutes. It is not designed for running for an "infinite" time: this is related to the battery duration in RC applications. So a generous cooling has to be applied.
Fantastic work Simon
RCLifeOn I knew when I saw and heard about the cr10 3D printer I would be special. But ppl like you just make it even more awesome . Good job dude.👌 cnc some quadcopter frames mmm 😊👍🏽. No problem
Älskar dina videos, due helt underbar och önskar dig all lycka👌🏻 gott nytt år
You have so cool ideas Thanks greetings from Switzerland
Damnit Boy..... you made me JUMP with that fake shock. LOL
awesome video, as always. Congratulations simon
This is for sure the best Video in youtube:))) I really do enjoy your videos
Super super interesting Simon ... I think I've seen this great movie a few times before! Technically, personally, I would have added a light hose tied with a printed piece right next to the engine, a light hose connected to the vacuum cleaner that would suck all the sawdust right next to it exactly when it appears. It may be too late to vacuum at the end, one of the moving rollers or belts of the assembly may be damaged and the work may fail over a long period of cutting. Excuse my English. Greetings from Romania. Maximum respect again for all your work. Esteem!
Brilliant as always, keep it coming
So now you can print and cut parts to build a better cnc-router. Bra jobbat grabben!
One of my fav channels. Great work, keep it up!
Nicely done job Simon 😎 I must admit that I like to watch your videos and love them when they are longer, it's better that way so try to keep in mind that 😉👌
A bit of info for better results. Drill bits are terrible at cutting sideways. The small endmill you were using is the way to go but failed because it is designed for steel. It has way to many flutes (cutting edges). The gullets (gaps between the teeth) are packing up with shavings keeping the teeth from taking a full cut. You want single or two flute endmills for wood and plastic. This will reduce the load on the xyz motors and keep them from slipping and your spindle motor will run cooler. They can also ramp down into the material much faster. I use an aquarium air pump with a rubber hose connected to a nozzle pointed at the cutter. You can attach it to the motor mount so it keeps all the shaving from building up in the channel you are cutting. This will make it so it is not recutting the shaving over and over and you don't have to keep vacuuming it out. Also helps with spindle motor load. I use the same design on my bridgeport mill and it works great. Cool project and thanks for sharing.
This is a great idea. Awesome stuff man.
Dang man thats pretty sweet you were able to get that to work