Technique Training for Beginners: Gaston VS Crossover
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- Опубліковано 4 січ 2019
- Time for some more Technique Training for Beginners, this time we take a look at Gastons and Crossovers, two rather hand/arm-focused techniques.
Technique Training for Beginners: Gaston VS Crossover by Mani the Monkey
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I agree with the other comments - as a new climber I have no idea what a gaston is and I wouldn't know one if I saw it. Please start with a clear, concise explanation/demonstration.
A Gaston is actually a situation where you have to press in opposition of both your hands left and right. Imagine you are in a narrow hallway and you are pressing both walls outward "As if" to widen it
When you compare techniques, can you please first explain what they are? Still no clue what a Gaston is after watching this
A 'gaston', also sometimes called a 'press', is the technique adopted when you have to push outwards and *away* from your body, in order to retain a grip on the handhold and lock your shoulder while you to adjust to the next hand or foot holds. This is usually required if the orientation of the best part of the hand hold is facing *towards* you, preventing it being used as a side-pull (which it would be if you crossed through with your other hand) or more conventional downwards pull.
If you google 'gaston climbing grip' and select the images tab, the climber's right hand in the very first image displayed is making a gaston.
I also wish you a joyful, successful and pain free new year! I‘m not a beginner (after 6 years of indoor and 3 years outdoor bouldering and climbing), but I find especially your technic videos very helpful to use different moves more conscious. Like a „toolbox“ as you said. This is as well beneficial for flashing to be able to visualize a climb before trying and for projecting to have different options, when the first tries doesn’t work.
Always learn something from watching your videos. Thank you for uploading!
Loving the technique episodes! Really informative! Great help for ppl without a coach
Glad it's helpful!
@@ManitheMonkey ,iv'e started climbing 9 months ago and have had several occasions where i discovered what i did wrong, thanks to your in depth reviews. These more intermediate-climbing-technique breakdowns are eye opening to me in terms of ' how' and ' why' they work. (for example: I find myself struggling in the 3:08 crossover position a lot, And now i know why)
THanks for all your help! Keep it up =D
Thanks Mani! Ive actually used crossovers without thinking about it and thought i did wrong when doing it while backstepping. This looks Great il make them part of my toolbox now :)
Thank you so much for your videos on various techniques!! It is very helpful for me and I made huuuge progress already (: I do toprope climbing in school but also started bouldering in my free time
Very clear and informative as always. Happy New Year
Excellent video Mani! Detailed, flowed well, and had developed clarity. I can't wait to get stuck in in 2019. I'm 37 and a busy human. I bouldered for a few months quite intensely and ignorantly in my early 20's and then moved far from rock or gym. I took up Calisthenics sporadically a couple of years ago. I went bouldering 2 weeks ago and climbed a 6B+ boulder route yay! I've set myself the crazy goal of life time grade 8A lol! I'm gonna train like a beast. All because I found your channel dude! Thank you for reminding me of just how much I loved climbing. Keep the videos coming
"I'm gonna train like a beast"
Sounds like a plan. I'm in!
8A isn't a crazy goal! focus :)
Very nice. Never thought about how the different body types would favor 1 or the other.
Great Lesson Thanks!!
I love those videos !!!
i recommend a using a lot more visualizations as a beginner I have nfi what I'm watching here tbh!!
Great video. Although I'm not a beginner I still enjoy watching these instructional videos to, like you said: enrich my toolbox. You could make the video even better for beginners if you'd add a short segment in the beginning where you explain what exactly is the mentioned technique so they get on board faster, since many beginners don't know climbing lingo or have a different word for it in their native tongue. Cheers!
2min20s in, and still haven't begun the real instructional part of the video. 8min29 in, still haven't defined what a gaston is... Great content on your channel, but it's so verbose I tend to check out and end up getting the info elsewhere. Cheers.
Exactly! too much useless verbage. Misleading title.
I recommend other channels
@@chloesoh3757 which channels do you recommend?
Agreed! so annoying!
Very interesting, never considered those moves to be related in that fashion!
I have unknowingly been using crossovers in place of gastons and barn dooring regularly. Tons of gratitude for the video, going to go try out these new skills! Cheers from Calgary!
Flagging can help with that...
Thanks man!
AAA song from Naruto! Great video, fantastic explanation. Packing myself and trying it out today!:)
Captain here. In climbing, a GASTON is a kind of grip which involves pushing a hold instead of pulling. To grab a hold as a GASTON a climber would turn his palm away from him, with the thumb pointing down and the elbow out, and generate friction against the hold by pressing outward toward the elbow. Think about pulling elevator door open.
As a short but average limbed (for the height) climber, I find reach for gastons particularly annoying (rather than hard). I'm nearly always overstretched. So to get anywhere, half the time I'm dynamically moving, using small jumps, or having to turn the hips to gain some height (or a combination). If the hold is out of reach, I have learned to expect that I will probably cut loose and knowing where the next foothold is, is useful.
Haha tell me about. I'm 165cm (5,4) with a short wing span so cutting loose and dynos are everyday business. I remember this one 7A (V6) on an overhang where I couldn't reach any of the footholds so I had to campus it. Didn't feel like a 7A for me haha.
@@Benkkuful tell me about it, i'm only 152/3cm! but watching the younger climbers climb, i've learnt alot about committment for the big moves. also, im able to put my flexibility/willingness-to-somehow-fit-into-small-corners to good use :p
I've never really thought about how these two things effect the climb. I've just kind of done them depending on what felt natural.
Nice one
Do you have or plan on making any videos on the specific techniques and physics behind Gastons and crossovers? Similar to your original Backstep and flagging video? I found those to be extremely helpful! Happy New Year by the way, wishing you the best of luck this year with your climbing and content creation :)
Yes please!
Thank you for another great technique video! I think the way you brought these two techniques together was very logical. You do a great job of explaining the pros and cons of each technique, at least from my amateur perspective. Showing side by side clips and highlighting the differences is very useful.
You already do a great job on your videos, but I do see some room for improvement when it comes to using overlay effects and onscreen drawing/highlighting. You seem to have improved on the latter, but having some clean and unobtrusive transition layovers would bring a more professional look to you videos. I'd be curious to know if you use a Wacom Tablet when video editing.
Also, a Happy New Year's (day) and a Happy New Year (year) to you as well. I'm excited to see you improve on both your climbing and video making in 2019. Best wishes from Minneapolis.
Do you edit videos? I want to create a LOT more content and would like whatever tips you may have when it comes to editing or anything like that
Hmmm that's really interesting. I have long arms and narrow shoulders but find a crossover, especially crossing from a T-Rex position on crimps feels heinous! I have resorted to matching on small crimps or find some other whacky sequence to get through the moves. I quite like gastons though!
In Gastones remember to avoid elbow deep locks, you will not get injured in a long term.
So what is a gaston?
Interesting. I've always been really good at Gastons, and feel horrible any time I have to do a Crossover. I'm so bad I'd rather bump to a gaston, piano roll match, and move on than crossover.
I'm in a similar boat.
Can you explain what is Gaston and what is Crossover? not intuitive enough for me
It seems from the video that a gaston is when you move your right hand (for example) up to a hold that is on your right side, and a crossover is when you use the left hand to cross (hence the name I assume) over to a hold that is on the right side of your body. Watch the same problem with the different methods at 2:57 where the gaston approach is the left screen and the crossover method is on the right.
what about having wider shoulders and long arms?
I wouldn't say no
Hmmm, gotta admit, having watched this I'm still not 100% confident where the "boundary" lies between Gaston and Crossover.
If you are unaware of what a gaston is, then you are climbing lower grade routes.... which do not utilize gastons. A gaston is a powerful move for more advanced climbers. They suck, you don't want it, don't worry about it.
That Naruto outro
Whoa. This was not a beginners video. I mostly wanted to understand what a gaston is, but got totally lost in amongst the diagrams and comparison of different techniques. Also I found it hard to understand whether the commentary was actually relating to the climbing we were seeing or not.
Rule of thumb... if your thumb is pointing down when you grab a hole, it is a gaston, which usually means that your shoulder are engaged.
I was looking for these comments. This video seems to be more about how smart the narrator is rather the successful transmission of info from expert to novice.
In welcher halle kletterst du? :)
Momentan oft in der Kletterhalle Fürstenfeld.
Putting a bit of a high pass on your voice in the video's would save my ears.. really. It sounds like i'm lying ears flat on your chest.
This video is so... toxic. It makes an actually intuitive topic so much more complicated / verbose. The more I watch this video, the more confusing I am. It is such a STUPID COMPARISON by climbing the same route with only gaston-moves and with only crossover-moves. They are two different techniques and we can use BOTH! Not to mention until the end of the video he still has not mentioned what a gaston is. In another video he even has his own naming for outside-flag by calling it "back step". His videos spreads confusion and inconsistency all over youtube lol.
haha omg, there's a lot more people who also found this video confusing. Take it off of UA-cam! Seriously, at least they can take this feedback and make a better video so that people can keep referring back to it.
So many big words used in this video without proper context of what they mean. Going to have to watch it a few times to try and get it. Not great for beginners. I can tell the narrator is an expert in the field, but it backfires for me when there's an assumption that everyone understands the terminology because I feel really lost in what's being explained. I actually still don't know what a gaston and crossover is. It would be much more helpful if it was being explained like it was to a 12 year old. This video would have such further reach.
WAY to slow and complicated. Try to get to the point faster.