I would make sure there is no bearing material in the block's oil passages before you re-assemble it. Life's lessons are repeated until they are learned. Great to have some more videos to watch. Thanks!
Excellent long term decision making, Chris. I'd go with headers instead of stock manifolds to let your new set up breathe. Thank's for taking us along!
Oh hell yeah! I'm thrilled you are building the original numbers engine for that car. That car is special, with the amount of work in it already and the performance you demand from it, this is what needed to be done. It cost you a car but you don't seem to have a shortage of those or any shortage of luck finding good ones. Personally, I think you made a bunch of fantastic decisions there. This should serve as a lesson for any guys out there that want to have a beast performance car but are tempted to reuse old internal wear parts. The way this was done originally got it on the road and probably would have been fine as a showy driver show queen but mashing down the throttle and spinning the shoes like that is going to show all the weak links in the chain.
Those rockers are fine. They can't move fore and aft in use but for high rpm use we can do better. I could show you some properly worn stamped arms from a 383 that I turned about 6500rpm 3x a day every day for 10 years in a daily driver and the motor was still running fine except the tips flogging out on some that damage the valve tips requiring lash caps. I just kept putting secondhand stamped arms back in and away we'd go. I did end up having to put adjustable pushrods in it and it really quietened it up. Eventually I ran a lobe, replaced with a secondhand camshaft and put all the old rockers back in. It lost it's edge because the camshaft was an old stock 440 camshaft and matching lifters that I numbered and stored from under the house about 5 or 6 years earlier : ) It doesn't make any difference how much you preload them. In fact you can (but its a royal pain in the ass to do accurately) bottom them out and run them like a solid lifter camshaft and the motor will pick up rpm. Probably too late, but re the big ends and journals, polish the journals with wet and dry, and replace the rod bolts otherwise it will happen again. If you want to keep revving it up use a solid lifter flat tappet camshaft. Get rid of the hydraulic. Use a windage try to stop it starving for oil when you rev it up. I know most of the dodgy tricks to keep a BB mopar going - I'm a qualified mechanic and I'd never do to a customers car what I do to mine but I can relay to you my dodginess. Heads!, the best heads you can get for the street IMO are the Mopar Stage VI. They flow 350cfm out of the box @.600" and have raised ports to straighten the flow. Get this, the raised ports are designed to use an RB intake on the low deck. With a stroker 383 the power it will make will be ridiculous.
My 44o flattened rod bearings twice. Both times were when i went to 6,000 rpm or slightly more. Now my motor is balanced at machine shop. Said its good to 6,200rpm. But i still got the rev limiter set to 5500. Dyno showed my bracket race cam with .480"lift lunati, peaked out at about 5.000rpm and it was still reasonable to only 5500 were the power drop got steeper. Im pretty sure its the overlap degrees that decides the lope. This same cam had great lope with 12 degrees overlap at .050. But i was literrally coughing on fumes and eyes would water at most stop lights. And everytime i had to tune it in my driveway. My new cam has 0 degrees overlap at .050 and its waaaay better but i still got the good lope and 0.490" lift. Good luck brother. Good luck. I also put on the comp cams roller rockers for $634
Slam the motor into the slant six red car and scrap that 6 junk two killer cars for the price of a rocket ship with overdrive. Anyway where was I? 😁 great video dude I would love to see the return off time lapse so we can watch the parts jump off and on so where was I!?? 😁
Great Parts good plan I know you like the patina on that car but that car would be so awesome with a brand-new turquoise paint job would be off the hook
Put those same PRW rocker arm shafts on my 383, cool to see someone who's a Mopar master using the same parts , makes me feel that more confident in my choice
So... I'm loading in a wad of 68 Charger vids you have to see if any of them are that slant six you were hinting at dropping in a big block and going over the cool-ification of that red darlin' :-)) 68 tail end was... a masterwork in rear end looks for Mopar for me at least :-)) You still have that car? Was wondering if it became Skynard... have to watch these now but I do hope you kept and have plans for that red 68 :-))
I have a 73 satelite that came with a 400 2 barrel. It had 66000 miles on it. I pulled the engine apart to replace all the seals in it along with oil pump pickup. The cylinders all had decent compression and still had the crosshatched patten on the cylinder walls. Ended up putting lunati cam and lifters in it along with valve springs. It now has an edelbrock 4 barrel and performer manifold. What woul be your recommendation to get more power out of this enging on a budget build????
I have tried to cheat on my old 69 Superbee by just changing crank ,bearings,oil pump but oil galley's still had bearing material in them and spun again. Don't forget to to flush oil galley's.
One thing that probably happened when those bearings spun was the rod end was distorted. Think about it. Those bearings were not just chewing up the crank, the other side of the bearing was chewing up the rod end. I'd get those rods checked before doing anything with them.
I had an old 62 impala with a 350 I put a bearing in once. it lasted a long time. It was the front bearing, probably from launches pulling the oil back. lol.
Bloody hell mate, she's not been back on the road all that long. You must have been having a lot more fun than you have shown us to flog out the big ends already !
Frieburger probably has a problem distinguishing a forge from a cast. Most Mopar small blocks went to cast in the mid to late sixties except the 340 in I believe 71. Most big blocks lasted till 72 with forged cranks. Government mandates on fuel economy and emissions killed muscle cars.
Hey man I enjoyed the video I can't wait till you finish up that turquoise car that way you can haul ass with it and you could smoke it up and we'll all be watching it on UA-cam I can't wait
loving your video`s. do these cars have direct fans to the pulley or run a viscus type, did sound like a belt slipping on that when it was revved.. recent sub and hi from the UK :)
Don't neccesarily throw out the 383 just yet. You can get a 496ci stroker kit from 440source , and the 383s have thicker block walls. with a nice cam and some free breathing heads, that would be a bit of a weapon!
What about putting it in the slant 6 car with a 4spd.and Dana rear? Wouldn't be a dog anymore, unless it more valuable asit is.I honestly don't remember a 6 cycliner charger till I saw yours.
No more clatter good job I miss having a mopar haven t had one for 10 years now I love them tail pipes I had them on my 67 FS barracuda 383 I guess I’ve had them on all the mopars I’ve had over the years you prob did the bearing doing he donuts lol polish it on the car get someone to bump it over and hold some paper on it whatever kind you are gonna use I seen that on the shitty show street outlaws but they only needed the car to do one run
I thought the same thing with a 440 roadrunner I had I spun the bearings I was just a kid and had no clue took valve covers of and not that so my uncle come home said start it up he says you spun a bearing I spun th bearing alright what a mess to my crank bu got it fixed I wasn’t as handy as you wen I was 17 but I learned a lot over the years oh ya that 383 should go wen you done with it
you want a 1990 - 95 A518 / 46RH overdrive transmission. still strong as a 727 , but with a handy overdrive gear for the highways and open road. And also an R5 nascar engine from the way you drive it :P
Maybe the bad hot tank job left some trash in the oil galleys. Look at the oil pump too to see if it galled it up and cut the filter and see how much debris is in it.
First get the block hot diped and line board this will insure the crank will run true and save your wallet in the future and never buy China parts it's a no no but it did sound great on that roll ,a purple cam has a nasty sound to it .
4 cking hundret and 96 that much displacemant from a 383? boy that's about 8,1 Liter say it's round about 8!! quart bottles . And what car did you sell?
I would not comment unless I had real truth to dispense: You have pull the rods out that any bearing spun in - period. The rod will never hold a new bearing if old bearing spun in the journal. I say this from experience of being cheap and in a hurry more than once. Throw the rod AWAY! Do not recondition it. Stock rods are cheap, I'm sure you have a good stash of virgin OEM. Personally I'd toss 'em all, who knows what the history is before you and some dumb ass could have machined 'em improperly or (?). Love the project and have been following along. Be great to see the next stage. Now if you could give me a bottle of that youthful energy I used to have............ Thanks, Steve
What were you building, a tow car or a mean machine, you originally said that you were building the car as a tow car with power, since you hammered it to shit, you screwed it, all i would have done was replaced the crank , sthe stick the motor back in
"CAM IT UP!" "LIGHT THEM UP!" "KABOOM!" "ENGINE NO GOOD!" "TIME FOR ANOTHER ENGINE REBUILD!" Send the engine to TEXAS SPEED in Fortworth/Dallas, Texas. They will make your engine giddy-up and go real goods! "Much, much betters than your build.
I run low 10's in my 68 Charger RT thats stock appearing.. Bone stock it ran high 12's in the 1/4 and low 4 second 0-60 when it was almost new in 1972 !! Mid 12's my 1976 with pro trac bias ply 275 wide tires ! 440 Magnum/7272 auto and 3.23 gears..A 383 2barrel and 2.76 axle ran 14.8's to 15 flat and thats an economy engine..26 mpg ! I got 25mpg in my 383 magnum powered Challenger RT ! It ran 4.8 0-60 and 13.46 in the 1/4 back in 1979 ! Bought it to resell and did ! Remember old car tests back in the day were done different than todays testing..Plus skinny tires made them spin forever !
Why do the Yanks insist on dropping the engine out the bottom? Way too hard instead of taking it out the top! That crank had a pile of bearing stuck to it. Polish it with wet and dry carefully and check the oil holes. IF the crank is that worn it was stuffed originally. You will lose driveability and economy with the single plane. As for the rockers,,, a bad design accentuated near certainly by very dodgey rocker arm geometry. Valves are probably longer. Plus the deck cut. THAT is why make to length pushrods are serviced for Mopars. Though again really does not matter what brand of engine. Blue the tips of the valves and watch where the roller runs, if it does not run from just before centre to just after it will break stuff. Valve train geometry is usually what kills valve trains. And the rockers, springs, cam gets the blame. As for your Trick Flows, disassemble them and check all the valve seal before you install them. I have never seen assemblies that have good valve seal, dont matter what brand they all need at least a handlap. Check valve to guide as well as they often seem to be too tight.
can't wait to see what you have in store for the red slant six swap, don't make us wait so long between videos! Thanks, great work!
I would make sure there is no bearing material in the block's oil passages before you re-assemble it. Life's lessons are repeated until they are learned. Great to have some more videos to watch. Thanks!
Excited to see the matching numbers back in the car. Great work as usual Chris!
Yer name is funny
Great video! I really enjoy the way you bring us through your problems and line of think.
glad your taking the bad news and using it to make a bunch of improvements! Love the build even more now.
This is the best video you've done. I've watched the intro at least 100 times alone.
Excellent long term decision making, Chris. I'd go with headers instead of stock manifolds to let your new set up breathe. Thank's for taking us along!
Oh hell yeah! I'm thrilled you are building the original numbers engine for that car. That car is special, with the amount of work in it already and the performance you demand from it, this is what needed to be done. It cost you a car but you don't seem to have a shortage of those or any shortage of luck finding good ones. Personally, I think you made a bunch of fantastic decisions there.
This should serve as a lesson for any guys out there that want to have a beast performance car but are tempted to reuse old internal wear parts. The way this was done originally got it on the road and probably would have been fine as a showy driver show queen but mashing down the throttle and spinning the shoes like that is going to show all the weak links in the chain.
Those rockers are fine. They can't move fore and aft in use but for high rpm use we can do better. I could show you some properly worn stamped arms from a 383 that I turned about 6500rpm 3x a day every day for 10 years in a daily driver and the motor was still running fine except the tips flogging out on some that damage the valve tips requiring lash caps. I just kept putting secondhand stamped arms back in and away we'd go. I did end up having to put adjustable pushrods in it and it really quietened it up. Eventually I ran a lobe, replaced with a secondhand camshaft and put all the old rockers back in. It lost it's edge because the camshaft was an old stock 440 camshaft and matching lifters that I numbered and stored from under the house about 5 or 6 years earlier : )
It doesn't make any difference how much you preload them. In fact you can (but its a royal pain in the ass to do accurately) bottom them out and run them like a solid lifter camshaft and the motor will pick up rpm.
Probably too late, but re the big ends and journals, polish the journals with wet and dry, and replace the rod bolts otherwise it will happen again.
If you want to keep revving it up use a solid lifter flat tappet camshaft. Get rid of the hydraulic.
Use a windage try to stop it starving for oil when you rev it up.
I know most of the dodgy tricks to keep a BB mopar going - I'm a qualified mechanic and I'd never do to a customers car what I do to mine but I can relay to you my dodginess.
Heads!, the best heads you can get for the street IMO are the Mopar Stage VI. They flow 350cfm out of the box @.600" and have raised ports to straighten the flow. Get this, the raised ports are designed to use an RB intake on the low deck. With a stroker 383 the power it will make will be ridiculous.
My 44o flattened rod bearings twice. Both times were when i went to 6,000 rpm or slightly more. Now my motor is balanced at machine shop. Said its good to 6,200rpm. But i still got the rev limiter set to 5500. Dyno showed my bracket race cam with .480"lift lunati, peaked out at about 5.000rpm and it was still reasonable to only 5500 were the power drop got steeper. Im pretty sure its the overlap degrees that decides the lope. This same cam had great lope with 12 degrees overlap at .050.
But i was literrally coughing on fumes and eyes would water at most stop lights. And everytime i had to tune it in my driveway. My new cam has 0 degrees overlap at .050 and its waaaay better but i still got the good lope and 0.490" lift. Good luck brother.
Good luck. I also put on the comp cams roller rockers for $634
Awesome video keep up the good work to awesome stream and videos to thumb up 😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎🙂🙂🙂
Hey man I just wanted to wish you a Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family stay safe
Slam the motor into the slant six red car and scrap that 6 junk two killer cars for the price of a rocket ship with overdrive. Anyway where was I? 😁 great video dude I would love to see the return off time lapse so we can watch the parts jump off and on so where was I!?? 😁
Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours my friend
Great Parts good plan I know you like the patina on that car but that car would be so awesome with a brand-new turquoise paint job would be off the hook
Put those same PRW rocker arm shafts on my 383, cool to see someone who's a Mopar master using the same parts , makes me feel that more confident in my choice
So... I'm loading in a wad of 68 Charger vids you have to see if any of them are that slant six you were hinting at dropping in a big block and going over the cool-ification of that red darlin' :-)) 68 tail end was... a masterwork in rear end looks for Mopar for me at least :-)) You still have that car? Was wondering if it became Skynard... have to watch these now but I do hope you kept and have plans for that red 68 :-))
I have a 73 satelite that came with a 400 2 barrel. It had 66000 miles on it. I pulled the engine apart to replace all the seals in it along with oil pump pickup. The cylinders all had decent compression and still had the crosshatched patten on the cylinder walls. Ended up putting lunati cam and lifters in it along with valve springs. It now has an edelbrock 4 barrel and performer manifold. What woul be your recommendation to get more power out of this enging on a budget build????
Put the 440 in SloMo Slant 6....she will love you more better. Good call on building up the original motor and putting it back in.
I have tried to cheat on my old 69 Superbee by just changing crank ,bearings,oil pump but oil galley's still had bearing material in them and spun again. Don't forget to to flush oil galley's.
That parking lot reminds me of, "Back to the Future." I was waiting for Doc Brown and Marty to do a cameo.
I’d have liked to see it with black wheels and a smaller black steering wheel. Still looks bad ass, I just like the black wheels to offset the patina.
Reminds me of the Chrysler commercial where the one fella says , that cant be good .
Better Have those Rods Checked as well !
Are you still going to tow with it. Great video thanks for sharing.
One thing that probably happened when those bearings spun was the rod end was distorted. Think about it. Those bearings were not just chewing up the crank, the other side of the bearing was chewing up the rod end. I'd get those rods checked before doing anything with them.
" So- where was I at?" If I had a nickle for everytime I said that one...lmao
I had an old 62 impala with a 350 I put a bearing in once. it lasted a long time. It was the front bearing, probably from launches pulling the oil back. lol.
Bloody hell mate, she's not been back on the road all that long. You must have been having a lot more fun than you have shown us to flog out the big ends already !
Why dont you buy the backend over drive for the original trans..have to hammer out clearance issues tunnel..and shorten drive shaft..
Looking good going to run good when it's done
QUESTION? What year did Chrysler stop using forged cranks in 440's?
I think Freiburger once said they stopped after 1976.
1972 .....except in stick cars...
Forged crankshafts were also used in at least some pickup 440s after cast cranks appeared in pass cars.
Frieburger probably has a problem distinguishing a forge from a cast. Most Mopar small blocks went to cast in the mid to late sixties except the 340 in I believe 71. Most big blocks lasted till 72 with forged cranks. Government mandates on fuel economy and emissions killed muscle cars.
Hey man I enjoyed the video I can't wait till you finish up that turquoise car that way you can haul ass with it and you could smoke it up and we'll all be watching it on UA-cam I can't wait
loving your video`s. do these cars have direct fans to the pulley or run a viscus type, did sound like a belt slipping on that when it was revved.. recent sub and hi from the UK :)
That rocket damage is 'special'.!
Awesome video keep them coming !
If the bearings spun in the rods then those rods probably need to be reconditioned
And need to flush out the oil passages
What brand are the 1.6 rockers ? Looks nice
Where did you get the stroker kit and what crank rods pistons cam did the company
On my 440, Twice i revved it over 6,000 and twice i flattened a rod bearing. Givin a bad knock!
Love your vids keep up the good work and hope to own a 69 charger soon
She sounded mean on the last skid, I don't know how you work so fast. It takes me ages to put a engine back together, impressive.
Cant wait to hear it, same striker kit I'm looking at for my 383 68 charger
Great vid, looking forward to more :)
She dont smoke the tires that much but she sure motorvates down the road pretty damn quick! Lol!
Have the rods resized or replace them + hopefully the piston didn't hit a valve or the head!?!? 🤔
If I wanted to put LED blinker and marker lights what relay do in need to get
paleeeze put a 5 speed in that beast pistol grip baby!!
SIX SPEED
Don't neccesarily throw out the 383 just yet. You can get a 496ci stroker kit from 440source , and the 383s have thicker block walls. with a nice cam and some free breathing heads, that would be a bit of a weapon!
Who makes the rockers?
Put the 440 in the slant six car!!!
Hell no!
Give the people what they want a gen2 hemi
didn't know how to drive slant six stay in second gear and wine that f***** up stop downshifting intoe first
I would of done the same thing... Good to see you back..
Pumped the metal from the rockers thru the bearings , ouch
What about putting it in the slant 6 car with a 4spd.and Dana rear? Wouldn't be a dog anymore, unless it more valuable asit is.I honestly don't remember a 6 cycliner charger till I saw yours.
No more clatter good job I miss having a mopar haven t had one for 10 years now I love them tail pipes I had them on my 67 FS barracuda 383 I guess I’ve had them on all the mopars I’ve had over the years you prob did the bearing doing he donuts lol polish it on the car get someone to bump it over and hold some paper on it whatever kind you are gonna use I seen that on the shitty show street outlaws but they only needed the car to do one run
I thought the same thing with a 440 roadrunner I had I spun the bearings I was just a kid and had no clue took valve covers of and not that so my uncle come home said start it up he says you spun a bearing I spun th bearing alright what a mess to my crank bu got it fixed I wasn’t as handy as you wen I was 17 but I learned a lot over the years oh ya that 383 should go wen you done with it
How much mpg you got with the turquoise car
That will buff right out....!
they spun cause of high oil temp?
You should have had the affected rods re sized?
New ones cost the same as resizing
Can't wait for that 383 to be roaring
Love the channel 👍🏽
dude the tops of the valves are shot . you should do a full rebuild slapping parts on only last so long .
Come help me fix my italian. Care to learn how to work on a vintage Maserati?
you want a 1990 - 95 A518 / 46RH overdrive transmission. still strong as a 727 , but with a handy overdrive gear for the highways and open road. And also an R5 nascar engine from the way you drive it :P
Hell Yeah. MORE PAWWWERRRRR!!!!!!!
Tim the the Tool man Taylor. Rrrrr Rrrrr
Maybe the bad hot tank job left some trash in the oil galleys. Look at the oil pump too to see if it galled it up and cut the filter and see how much debris is in it.
" Eh- that don't sound right"...you are an advertisers dream. Seriously- make some T- shirts.
First get the block hot diped and line board this will insure the crank will run true and save your wallet in the future and never buy China parts it's a no no but it did sound great on that roll ,a purple cam has a nasty sound to it .
Everything comes from China...even the metal that the suposed US made parts are made of.
Wang-do Dahl Yeah, and it’s almost all shit quality. Steel is one of the worst things China makes 🤣
Bummer......! Well we see tthe results. It means dollars. But it was fun .
Love how when you tear chit up you just laugh. I'd be kicked off you tube for language.... any thoughts on Martz 4 link systems?
At least you don't have to worry about protecting the fenders when working on the motor.
you must be a distant cousin of the Duke boys
And this makes me miss my car big time.
Hey I have to say ROADKILL got to you
Waa waa waa waaaaa
the rockers could of been throwing off your efi , if some were fully lifting and some not.
Great video
Hey,Chris is your roadrunner for sale as is thanks.watch your videos like your videos Dave long
Wasn't those new rockers that ruined?
Sweet ride
4 cking hundret and 96 that much displacemant from a 383? boy that's about 8,1 Liter say it's round about 8!! quart bottles .
And what car did you sell?
I am only here to read the Pep Boys mechanics comments
Turquoise the "TORQUE"
YOU TOASTED THE ROCKERS,YEAH GOOD STUFF
I would not comment unless I had real truth to dispense: You have pull the rods out that any bearing spun in - period. The rod will never hold a new bearing if old bearing spun in the journal. I say this from experience of being cheap and in a hurry more than once. Throw the rod AWAY! Do not recondition it. Stock rods are cheap, I'm sure you have a good stash of virgin OEM. Personally I'd toss 'em all, who knows what the history is before you and some dumb ass could have machined 'em improperly or (?).
Love the project and have been following along. Be great to see the next stage. Now if you could give me a bottle of that youthful energy I used to have............
Thanks, Steve
Unlimited amounts of cash flow??? IT would take me 3 months to pay for a good carb alone!!! WTF!!!
sunday morning spin alright, lol
Where's Tina ?
What were you building, a tow car or a mean machine, you originally said that you were building the car as a tow car with power, since you hammered it to shit, you screwed it, all i would have done was replaced the crank , sthe stick the motor back in
more betta
Well....SHIT !
👍💪🤘🎅🎄
509 cam
"CAM IT UP!" "LIGHT THEM UP!" "KABOOM!" "ENGINE NO GOOD!" "TIME FOR ANOTHER ENGINE REBUILD!" Send the engine to TEXAS SPEED in Fortworth/Dallas, Texas. They will make your engine giddy-up and go real goods! "Much, much betters than your build.
Past it's warranty, lol.
My Twingo would smoke any of those dinosaurs.......
I run low 10's in my 68 Charger RT thats stock appearing..
Bone stock it ran high 12's in the 1/4 and low 4 second 0-60 when it was almost new in 1972 !! Mid 12's my 1976 with pro trac bias ply 275 wide tires ! 440 Magnum/7272 auto and 3.23 gears..A 383 2barrel and 2.76 axle ran 14.8's to 15 flat and thats an economy engine..26 mpg ! I got 25mpg in my 383 magnum powered Challenger RT ! It ran 4.8 0-60 and 13.46 in the 1/4 back in 1979 ! Bought it to resell and did !
Remember old car tests back in the day were done different than todays testing..Plus skinny tires made them spin forever !
More Betters !!
Why do the Yanks insist on dropping the engine out the bottom? Way too hard instead of taking it out the top!
That crank had a pile of bearing stuck to it. Polish it with wet and dry carefully and check the oil holes. IF the crank is that worn it was stuffed originally.
You will lose driveability and economy with the single plane.
As for the rockers,,, a bad design accentuated near certainly by very dodgey rocker arm geometry. Valves are probably longer. Plus the deck cut. THAT is why make to length pushrods are serviced for Mopars. Though again really does not matter what brand of engine.
Blue the tips of the valves and watch where the roller runs, if it does not run from just before centre to just after it will break stuff. Valve train geometry is usually what kills valve trains. And the rockers, springs, cam gets the blame.
As for your Trick Flows, disassemble them and check all the valve seal before you install them. I have never seen assemblies that have good valve seal, dont matter what brand they all need at least a handlap. Check valve to guide as well as they often seem to be too tight.
I would upgrade to a modern hellcat drive line much cheaper than spinning your wheels with these old boat anchor motors
Chyeah!