Damn, 7 hours? took me an hour to get both slave & master out & new parts back in & another 30 minutes to bleed it & smoked a blunt. this job should never take more than 2 hours max
Yup 2 hours and did have to remove anything around it, there's enough space under I think the biggest Tip is losen brake booster from the bigining and don't struggle later👍
So far I have had no issues with the CMC. I do have a vibration in the firewall at specific RPMs, I'm not sure if this is by design or if a bolt is loose
@@gftgrill ive read the vibration is normal because of the delay valve, one video someone said adjusting the cmc helped get rid of vibration. Is the cmc and slave still holding up good?
@@mattanderson1890 Yes, I still don't have any issues with this. I will also note that since covid lockdown that I don't drive much in general any more. I've only put 6,000 city miles on the car over the past 2 years.
Nice video. How does it compare to stock?!? I’ve owned my TSX for a year now and for the first time reved out past 6k. Fast shifting in this car is scary sloppy.
it's much more direct, feels less soft, and is overall I just find it much more enjoyable to drive. As soon as I put it in, it felt like driving my '99 civic. I have no regrets other than waiting 13 years to install it.
www.k20a.org/threads/k-tuned-clutch-master-cylinder-upgrade-kit.200337/ Heeltoe sells a seperate k-tuned CMC and CSC for the 2003-2007 accord, but not a single kit: www.heeltoeauto.com/hydraulic-system-lines/ In theory it should work, but it's best to contact the manufacturer for clarification
Hey bro my clutch pedal just went on me. It’s going straight down to the floor and won’t retract. Only feel tension on the pedal at the very end when pressing down. Only enough to start the car but won’t engage. I see the slave slightly move when I got someone to press it and there’s fluid in the reservoir. Should I replace the CMC and slave or just the CMC? I’m gonna try to bleed it first I doubt it’s the clutch the previous owners supposably just changed it like 50k ago
bleeding it might work, but most likely your CMC needs to be replaced. If you're in there replacing the CMC, replacing the CSC is an extra 10 minutes or so. I would suggest replacing both and being done the first time. it'll cost you a little extra, but then you won't have to get back in there and mess with it again.
The clip under the brake booster is absolute hell
FINALLY, I mean Ive done a few now. But it’s cool someone actually made a video
Damn, 7 hours? took me an hour to get both slave & master out & new parts back in & another 30 minutes to bleed it & smoked a blunt. this job should never take more than 2 hours max
😭😭😭
How hard is to get slave and master out and replace both
Yup 2 hours and did have to remove anything around it, there's enough space under I think the biggest Tip is losen brake booster from the bigining and don't struggle later👍
what is the bleeder pump you are using. it looks very handy and using it do you just keep pumping for a while and then the pressure is good to go
It's a mityvac bleeder. You can pump up the pressure then open the valve to pull the fluid out. Then close the bleeder valve and repeat.
Why did you cut out the work? That was the part I need to see
What did you miss? Literally showed everything….pick up a wrench and start turning.
Wait so you put brake fluid into the clutch resivoir to bleed it ? Or did you mistake your words ?
That is correct. There's no such thing as clutch fluid. A hydraulic clutch uses brake fluid.
Is there a way 2 verify if it is a Master Cylinder- or if it is a Clutch issue? Any feed back would be appreciated...Thank you all!!
How the f do you get to the clip holding in the clutch line under the brake booster? Anyone chime in with a tip lol
How can you adjust the CMC outside of the car? How do you know it will line up with the pedal adjustment?
you could, I would use a ruler to try to get it to the same place. Otherwise it's just a guess and you'll have to fine tune it after it's installed.
@@gftgrill I already have the sensor set to 2 threads showing. I believe the safe range is 10-18mm of free play. This helped a lot ! Thanks
I'm considering getting this kit for my TSX. How has yours held up?
So far I have had no issues with the CMC. I do have a vibration in the firewall at specific RPMs, I'm not sure if this is by design or if a bolt is loose
@@gftgrill ive read the vibration is normal because of the delay valve, one video someone said adjusting the cmc helped get rid of vibration. Is the cmc and slave still holding up good?
@@mattanderson1890 Yes, I still don't have any issues with this. I will also note that since covid lockdown that I don't drive much in general any more. I've only put 6,000 city miles on the car over the past 2 years.
I installed one and it hasn't shifted good at all as if the cmc is failing shift smooth then fades to hard shifting any input
Nice video. How does it compare to stock?!? I’ve owned my TSX for a year now and for the first time reved out past 6k. Fast shifting in this car is scary sloppy.
it's much more direct, feels less soft, and is overall I just find it much more enjoyable to drive. As soon as I put it in, it felt like driving my '99 civic. I have no regrets other than waiting 13 years to install it.
Do you have a video on how you bleed the brakes
Do you know if this works for a 2003-2007 honda accord with the k24?
www.k20a.org/threads/k-tuned-clutch-master-cylinder-upgrade-kit.200337/
Heeltoe sells a seperate k-tuned CMC and CSC for the 2003-2007 accord, but not a single kit: www.heeltoeauto.com/hydraulic-system-lines/
In theory it should work, but it's best to contact the manufacturer for clarification
So did you swap out the oem rod from the oem slave to the after market slave ?
No, I used the one that came with the kit. I don't remember transferring the old one over.
Where did you get your bleeding kit? I got one from Amazon and it didn’t pull any fluid when i tried bleeding it.
I used a basic MityVac bleeder.
What pump and size hose is that ?! And where did you get it ??
I don't know the exact sizes. You can buy the kit from them. www.kseriesparts.com/KTD-CLK-KMS.html
Hey bro my clutch pedal just went on me. It’s going straight down to the floor and won’t retract. Only feel tension on the pedal at the very end when pressing down. Only enough to start the car but won’t engage. I see the slave slightly move when I got someone to press it and there’s fluid in the reservoir. Should I replace the CMC and slave or just the CMC? I’m gonna try to bleed it first I doubt it’s the clutch the previous owners supposably just changed it like 50k ago
bleeding it might work, but most likely your CMC needs to be replaced. If you're in there replacing the CMC, replacing the CSC is an extra 10 minutes or so. I would suggest replacing both and being done the first time. it'll cost you a little extra, but then you won't have to get back in there and mess with it again.
K-tuned is crap don't last long and have linking issues been though 2 in about 1 year and the other 1 in 3 months bullshit 😡😡😡😡😡
Does it it fit with the stock slave cylinder?
Yes, they sell the slave and master individually. I chose to buy both with the new line and just do everything at once.
@@gftgrill i had replace the slave with stock oem 1 month ago lol. But yeah i order it with hose kit would see hoew it works. Thank you. 🙏🏼