You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
Came across the same problem within weeks of purchasing my Axminster cabinet saw and thought it must be me as nothing could have been designed with such obvious limitations! As in many other walks of life, the customer becomes the company's regression tester. But surely this is a mature product and such issues should have been fixed long ago? (And why does the riving knife have to stand above the blade, limiting utility? ) The fact that there are so many great videos of obvious improvements would be a source of severe embarrassment if I were the designer, particularly in such a mature field.
Love this book! ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxpCNxqmAkyjN6NPx1fyB7QiEFWyO5mUWL it is simply one-of-a-kind! I really love it, because karah explained all tools required to have the job done, not mentioning the fabulous diy pallets ideas. I'm pretty sure this will be a fresh start in my new endeavour. Amazon was great, they delivered on time. Thank you!
Awesome improvements mate. I'm finally starting my micro workshop next weekend with room to expand when money allows. Love yours and others videos on here for tips etc. Been a carpenter for 25+ years and still learning....every days a school day 👍
This is brilliant thank you, Keith. I am glad you kept the Axminster as I bought one on the strength of your original purchase decision! I have not used it much as work and workshop extension have delayed me but I will carefully study all your tips as you are so thorough and enjoyable to watch. Thank you. Regards
I bought the SIP version of that table saw probably 20 years ago and the only issues I've had with it is the poor dust extraction and I came up with the same solution as yourself and I've put up with the fence not moving parallel to the blade but I've got in the habit to check it every time. So I'll definitely try some shims. Great video thanks
top job as always, each one of those problems would take a bit of time coming up with a solution yet you fired right through them, most inspiring! I really like the way you think things through. Well done and thanks for sharing ❤🙏
Thanks Keith, I share your pain with trying to decide things like this, not a straight forward comparison so interesting to hear your thought process. I think Axminster owe you one on this ( at least the cost of the crown guard ) as you've shown how to get round the shortcomings of the saw which everyone gains from. To be fair to them, they're normally pretty good with spares and repairs so I'm sure with a nudge they'll make the alternative bolt available ! Thanks also to Karl for all his input !
Great stuff here Keith. I gave my standard fence measurement accuracy away, a long time back. not readable / reliable and not square. It may seem like extra work but I'm happy with my solutions. I use a standard measure tape which lives on the fence. a speed square as my 'Square', two magnets attached to the fence to hold the fence in place, along with slight pressure on the existing locking leaver . Yes they hold and I get accuracy every time. I too use two systems for the dust. table and over blade.
Right decision Keith on your choice , I managed to get the same Axminster saw and also the ap50e trade wall mounted dust extractor , dust extractor works very well with my old saw , Metabo planer/thicknesser and 12” planer , I am just waiting for the 16amp power output to be installed to start playing with my saw . I am very interested in the upgrades you have showed . Top job once I finish rearranging my workshop I pop a couple of pictures on 👍
Great video! While most of what you were talking about goes right over my head ( I know virtually nowt about woodworking), I always enjoy watching you use machine tools and explain what each component does.
Fantastic upgrades. I'm having a lot of frustration with my Axminster AC216TS, and will be making some of the same upgrades you did in this video though I'll probably make a new fence too as the 216 fence clamp is rubbish
Great video as always Keith. I figured out it wasn't just one or two channels I wasn't getting notifications for but all of them. So the settings was with my browser not UA-cam so that's changed and there was this video
You can use magnets on the insert plate Keith. All you need to do is insert some into the sides of the plate that you didn't rout away. A couple 25mm x 8mmx 2mm neodymium magnets on each side ought to be plenty to grip the metal of the bed.
The trouble is the manufacturer doesn't take into account that you may not need a complete new crown guard but it's all about them forcing you to buy things excessively regardless of the one thing you need to put an issue right Keith. Great video mate 👍🏽 👌
I have this (or very similar) saw so thought I would share a couple of things i learnt from it. To adjust the fence I had a couple of square base magswitches so I locked them onto the table parallel to the blade (and the mitre slot as they should be the same) at the front and back of the table and clamped the fence against them to hold it in place whilst tightening the bolts. As for the crown guard, with mine if you cranked the blade up all the way I think the fence slipped in under the guard so you could get close to the blade (as i type this i realise that I think mine is a 12" and yours is a 10" so it might be different) but either way I just ended up removing the guard for close cuts as frankly I think it is safer to have good access for a push stick than to kept the guard in place and either not use a push stick or so something sketchy with it. I have since totally abandoned the crown guard for most jobs as the riving knife is too tall for grooving cuts which I do more now so I ordered a spare riving knife and cut it down to slightly shorter than than the blade height which removes the crown guard mounting slot. i ordered the 2nd riving knife as I assumed i would switch back and forth, but frankly I have never put the original and crown guard back in as i have never felt the need. The dust extraction never worked well enough for me to care about loosing it, and I think from a safety standpoint for me it is better to always have a riving knife rather than a crown guard, especially on narrower cuts where I have better access for push sticks or blocks without a guard getting in the way.
Nice video kieth a still think you should of went with the lumberjack saw granted u may still have had to make some those modifications with the lumberjack one but don't think would of been nearly as many. Time will tell once u send it back if you miss it. 🏴👍
LumberJack TS1800 Review Video: ua-cam.com/video/3huYfNfCXyg/v-deo.html Axminster AT254SB Review Video: ua-cam.com/video/gvBQCAHtEGo/v-deo.html Finger Joint Jig Video: ua-cam.com/video/P7WBeXRufWg/v-deo.html 75mm Castors: amzn.to/3JUB60N (Amazon UK) geni.us/A07BZK (Amazon Worldwide) Strawbyte Workshop Website: www.strawbyte.com/ Strawbyte Workshop UA-cam Channel: ua-cam.com/users/StrawbyteWorkshop Blog Post: www.strawbyte.com/blog/2023/4/3/fence-fixes-ragnbonebrown Pointers for Axminster AT254SB: www.strawbyte.com/merchandise/fence-pointers-large-tablesaw Pointers for the Axminster Craft/Workshop saws: www.strawbyte.com/merchandise/fence-pointer-small-tablesaw Waste-side-jigs: www.strawbyte.com/merchandise?category=Workshop+Jigs Milwaukee plunge saw cover: www.strawbyte.com/merchandise/plunge-saw-dust-cover-for-milwaukee 0:00 Intro 0:16 LumberJack TS1800 or Axminster AT254SB 3:48 Problem 1: Manouverability 7:29 Problem 2: Insert Plate 11:25 Problem 3: Measurement Marker 14:54 Problem 4: The Fence 15:58 Problem 5: Narrow Rip Cuts 🔨 MY TOOLS 🔨 For links to the tools I use, plus some of my favourite consumables, finishes and more see links below. As an Amazon Associate I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases UK affiliate store: www.amazon.co.uk/shop/ragnbonebrown US affiliate store: www.amazon.com/shop/ragnbonebrown 🤝 HELP SUPPORT THE CHANNEL 🤝 Support with UA-cam channel membership: ua-cam.com/channels/VyE_6jEtVZGmYGXtUOL5FQ.htmljoin Support with Patreon: www.patreon.com/ragnbonebrown Support with PayPal paypal.me/ragnbonebrown Shop With Amazon using my affiliate link: geni.us/iWD3K 💰 SHOP 💰 Etsy: www.etsy.com/uk/shop/KeithBrownMaker teespring.com/stores/rag-n-bone-brown-merch 🎧 WORKSHOP BANTER PODCAST 🎧 ua-cam.com/users/workshopbanter Also available on Spotify, Apple, Google and most other podcast platforms 🔗 LINKS: 🔗 Website: www.ragnbonebrown.com Facebook: facebook.com/ragnbonebrown Instagram: @ragnbonebrown Twitter: twitter.com/ragnbonebrown Email: ragnbonebrown@gmail.com Second UA-cam Channel (non woodwork videos): ua-cam.com/users/keefykeef
Brilliant information, thank you so much. I’m considering buying a new one, haven’t used one since I cut the ends of my fingers off, been using track saw instead, but it’s taking too long. A lot to consider before buying eh? Love the Chanel 👍👍👍👍
Hello from Ireland !I have that exact problem with the table fence so I'm gong to do that, thanks. The screws that hold the fence rail to the fence clamp are a bit stripped, any tios for fixing those? My fence is basically adjusted every cut by tapping it with the screws left alone. Seems dangerous to have a fence shift on most cuts!
Well I have lost my bet with myself..... It was theLumberJack for me... but as always you have made the improvements you needed so win win. Nice one Keith.... and Karl Those single swivel bases are rank, I bought one for my Drum Sander, soon replaced it with heavy duty castors
Great upgrades. With the insert plate could you add magnets to what would be the front side rather than the bottom? This would not give as good a hold but it may be enough with your flush-fitting plate.
Castors: For seriously wide ranges, check theatrical chandlers. One near me is called Flints, but there must be others. The moment a friend suggested them, it made obvious sense. More options than Ironmongery Direct, etc
I think you made the right decision - overhauling all those surfaces sounds like a bit much. Great upgrades! I wonder if some sort of sprung latch (or just a springy strip of steel) on the front of the insert might help keep it captive, while still "pullable", if that makes sense. Great stuff from StrawByte!
The axminster would have had it on grunt alone for me. Have to say though, I love that LJ supply a very decent looking fence as standard. Like the mods. I may do a similar swivel castor conversion on my Planer. Similar to yours was and just as much a pain in the ass to move in a tight space!
If you enlarge the slot in the guard bolt ,it will fit from the other side . Alternatively if you do not have a way of enlarging the slot , fit a washer to the end of the bolt so that it changes the position of the slot .
I made the mistake of buying that Axminster mobile base for my tablesaw. I absolutely hate it! I was planning to make a completely new base, but maybe I'll follow your lead on this.
Nice solutions, Keith! For the saw insert, could you countersink and glue a washer or two to the underneath of the rebate on the wooden insert and then fit the magnet close by under the saw table itself?
I have the craft Axminster saw and i have the same problem as my fence off sets to the right by a mm or. Two.. the thing is will your solution work for the craft saw. Your saw adjustment block looks very much like the craft saw [the red one]… comments please!!
I have just bought the lumber Jack and not keen on the saw guard what saw crown guard what is the one you have please you said it fits both machines Like the idea of dust extraction on the crown guard That’s for your help Regards Dave
Any chance I can piggyback off this discussion. I have the "Einhell 2000W 250mm". I find it wanting. Not really wide enough and the guide rail is stubby and has far too much play (and I won't even mention the cross cut). I was looking at buying an after market guide rail to try and help, I found one got about £120. Eventually I found the Lumberjack 10" portable table saw for £250. It sports a rigid guide rail and a wide extension table and it is portable to boot. Thinking about selling my Einhell, saving the money I'd have spent on guiderail and just getting this. Have you, or anyone else got any thoughts on this table saw etc? Please/thank you.
Thanks for this! I'm considering to buy an Axminster AW254 but I'm actually a bit hesitant, only due to the way the fence is attached. In your 1800 TS review, it was quite apparent the fence attachment, with all its added adjustment capabilities was superior to the Axminster. Would it be possible to buy a third-party fence attachment which has the TS1800 fence adjustment capabilities and put them on the Axminster? If so, can anybody indicate where I could purchase that? Thanks!
I have this saw and have the same frustrations as you. I typically leave the crown gard off 😲but then dust extraction is worse than terrible. The little machine screws to remove the insert place is THE WORST pain with the thing. I am so sick of removing and replacing those f***ing screws!
Have either of you tried blocking the gaps at the top and bottom of the saw so that the lower vacuum is only pulling air through the blade slot? I have seen this done but am not sure whether this will affect the motor cooling.
Great video! I am looking to purchase a table saw and was interested in the lubmberjack following your earlier review. If you didn't already own the Axminster saw would your choice have been different 🤔
Pretty sure I’ll be getting a lumberjack, the points system began to feel a bit like a hunt for reasons to keep the Axminster at the end 😂 Simpler way is to toss a coin, if you know the second the selection is revealed you wanted the other one you have your answer no justification needed. They both look to be good saws though so I can understand the trouble choosing.
The casters might not fail but that flat plate might bend with time. I know it's thick steel but it's only a flat plate. It doesn't have much lateral strength aside from being thick.
But a 16amp circuit won’t help unless you have a 16amp plug and fuse. Are they saying you need to fit a new plug? Are they going to pay for that given the saw doesn’t work as advertised?
@@therestlessworkshop Yes will have to replace the plug on saw too, which apparently wont void any warranties. Of course very unlikely I'll get anything from LumberJack, I just want people to know what they are getting into with this saw, definitely does not work as advertised. Having said that for the level of saw I wanted I guess it was inevitable that I would end up needing a 16amp circuit, and the Lumber Jack saw still ticks a lot of boxes for me.
@@timd2809 I have the same issue with my lumberjack saw. I was hoping that slow blow fuses demonstrated in one of this bloke’s previous vids would do the trick. I paid £5.00 for two fuses,they lasted less time than an ordinary fuse. I normally like to switch the power off when the saw’s not in use,I find if I leave the power switch on the wall on,even when the saw’s not in use,my fuses last much longer. When I finish in my workshop,I lower the blade and lock my workshop door,I don’t want my grandchildren to wonder in and press the on switch on a saw that’s ready to cut 24/7. I’ve been advised to upgrade the saw to 16a too. More expense.
I would get onto them and get the saw returned for a refund myself. It's not fit for purpose as advertised. No way should you need a 16a supply for a motor that size. It's advertised to run on a 13a supply and that's what it should do. The company seem totally amateur in getting this problem corrected.
@@alankirbywoodworking Yeah its not great but for the money and features what else is out there, I will go ahead with the 16amp circuit anyway as whether its with this saw or another I think I will need it anyway. Haven't ruled out returning it yet.
hi mate - the links to your website in the description start with https, it looks like your website doesnt support that protocol and needs http to be used instead
Maybe, Karl can design a pin for the guard using 3D prints? Might be a lot faster to use Karl than to get an entire large-company to design one extra thing (something which they should've already been aware of). Like always, great video! P.s. I'm quite concerned regarding the castors, incase they fail on you while making a cut. Unless, I missed something?
I think metal ones are more practical, besides, seems Axminster are already on top of it. If the castors fail, the saw only drops by 15mm at the most, so not a big deal
I mean, to me, one of them being discontinued would make it a non-starter for me. With it being discontinued, getting replacements if necessary will only get harder over time. That may be the same for any item, but the countdown on that doesn't really start until it's reached EOL.
@@RagnBoneBrown For now. They still have old stock, but how many spare parts are there, or are the spares still being made(even if only kept in small quantities).
Most of this was absolutely golden, but one thing stood out as a huge safety issue. You just made your table saw easier to move, AND took away the ability to lock it in place, all at the same time. Isn't this unsafe? Obviously it won't move on you with smaller projects, the weight alone will keep it stationary, but what about when you're wrestling some massive sheet of thick plywood onto it -- or worse, through it? You need some kind of foot-operated kick stop to lock it in place -now-, or even just casters with brakes, because if you're like me you'll forget and only remember it doesn't have a lock now when it actually moves at the worst possible time.
I think 2 original casters still have breaks on plus this saw is super heavy. You won.t move it when cutting stuff on it unless you put whole body weight on it.
Disappointing outcome. Was really hoping that the Lumberjack stayed as I've looked into these since your review. I've done my research and decided its the one for me. So going with the Axminster meant I didn't need to continue with this vid. No bother, see you on the net one!!!
I would like to purchase a Hammer K3 Saw Table with sliding table but Felder UK have a strange way of selling or rather not selling! They will not publish the prices. Their excuse is that everyone wants different accessories. I said why not publish the price of the accessories as well? But that seemed to be above their level of comprehension.
It seems to me that the table saws you've had since the old Dewalt have all been a net downgrade. Is that fair? I suppose the bigger tables are really useful, but they all seem to be of inferior design, especially when it comes to the fence and measuring.
When you measure depth use the other end of the caliper it gives a lot more flat surface thus easier and more accurate. I put my back out using the Record bandsaw wheels so spent a furtune on the improved wheel lift abomination. Whoever designed this never used it once the table overhangs the lift handle and the resulting contortion in use is bad for your health.
Interesting scoring system. It heavily favoured the lumberjack because it has more lines that score so it’s easier to get a higher score Would have been better to score each saw for each of the lines and then get a total, or average Then again, the Axminster still won haha
@@richa8308 not sure I get this logic. Are you assuming that because one saw scores higher the other will automatically score 0? It’s ok to score one less than the other but not like all or nothing
@@MigleschienHysteria Hi Jack, sorry, my thought pattern is not well expressed. If we took all criteria listed for both saws and applied against each, there would be a fairer scoring system. However, Keith will inevitably have used all criteria, at least subconsciously, and his exclusion in certain listings suggests a dismissal, or zero score, at least subconsciously. Therefore, had the criteria lists been comprehensive, the score would still have been the same. I'm not assuming that a higher score negates the other's score for that criteria, but am suggesting that where the criteria is not listed, its score is automatically zero. Big assumptions on how Keith's mind has worked, but its generally how we all think.
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
‘Further evidence, if needed, that the people who design tools don’t actually use them…’ 💥 Damn right! Good video Keith, and solid upgrades. 👍
Came across the same problem within weeks of purchasing my Axminster cabinet saw and thought it must be me as nothing could have been designed with such obvious limitations! As in many other walks of life, the customer becomes the company's regression tester. But surely this is a mature product and such issues should have been fixed long ago? (And why does the riving knife have to stand above the blade, limiting utility? ) The fact that there are so many great videos of obvious improvements would be a source of severe embarrassment if I were the designer, particularly in such a mature field.
Keith, that was bloody marvellous! You’ve just rattled through most of the frustrations I have with my Axminster table saw. Great video. Thank you 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
@@RagnBoneBrown 👍 I PayPaled you a coffee to say thanks 👍
Thank you very much that's very kind! Cheers
Love this book! ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxpCNxqmAkyjN6NPx1fyB7QiEFWyO5mUWL it is simply one-of-a-kind! I really love it, because karah explained all tools required to have the job done, not mentioning the fabulous diy pallets ideas. I'm pretty sure this will be a fresh start in my new endeavour. Amazon was great, they delivered on time. Thank you!
I agree with you about building jigs and not projects. For the ultimate see JSK-koubou, beautifully made jigs for everything.
Awesome improvements mate.
I'm finally starting my micro workshop next weekend with room to expand when money allows.
Love yours and others videos on here for tips etc.
Been a carpenter for 25+ years and still learning....every days a school day 👍
thank you!
This is brilliant thank you, Keith. I am glad you kept the Axminster as I bought one on the strength of your original purchase decision! I have not used it much as work and workshop extension have delayed me but I will carefully study all your tips as you are so thorough and enjoyable to watch. Thank you. Regards
Thank you!
I bought the SIP version of that table saw probably 20 years ago and the only issues I've had with it is the poor dust extraction and I came up with the same solution as yourself and I've put up with the fence not moving parallel to the blade but I've got in the habit to check it every time. So I'll definitely try some shims. Great video thanks
Quite inspiring how you worked through the issues and found solutions for each one, Keith and Karl is obviously a great friend to know.
top job as always, each one of those problems would take a bit of time coming up with a solution yet you fired right through them, most inspiring! I really like the way you think things through. Well done and thanks for sharing ❤🙏
Thank you!
Thanks Keith, I share your pain with trying to decide things like this, not a straight forward comparison so interesting to hear your thought process. I think Axminster owe you one on this ( at least the cost of the crown guard ) as you've shown how to get round the shortcomings of the saw which everyone gains from. To be fair to them, they're normally pretty good with spares and repairs so I'm sure with a nudge they'll make the alternative bolt available ! Thanks also to Karl for all his input !
Great stuff here Keith. I gave my standard fence measurement accuracy away, a long time back. not readable / reliable and not square. It may seem like extra work but I'm happy with my solutions. I use a standard measure tape which lives on the fence. a speed square as my 'Square', two magnets attached to the fence to hold the fence in place, along with slight pressure on the existing locking leaver . Yes they hold and I get accuracy every time. I too use two systems for the dust. table and over blade.
Thanks for sharing
Right decision Keith on your choice , I managed to get the same Axminster saw and also the ap50e trade wall mounted dust extractor , dust extractor works very well with my old saw , Metabo planer/thicknesser and 12” planer , I am just waiting for the 16amp power output to be installed to start playing with my saw . I am very interested in the upgrades you have showed . Top job once I finish rearranging my workshop I pop a couple of pictures on 👍
Great video! While most of what you were talking about goes right over my head ( I know virtually nowt about woodworking), I always enjoy watching you use machine tools and explain what each component does.
That is awesome! Thank you
Fantastic upgrades. I'm having a lot of frustration with my Axminster AC216TS, and will be making some of the same upgrades you did in this video though I'll probably make a new fence too as the 216 fence clamp is rubbish
Great video as always Keith. I figured out it wasn't just one or two channels I wasn't getting notifications for but all of them. So the settings was with my browser not UA-cam so that's changed and there was this video
Welcome back!
You can use magnets on the insert plate Keith.
All you need to do is insert some into the sides of the plate that you didn't rout away. A couple 25mm x 8mmx 2mm neodymium magnets on each side ought to be plenty to grip the metal of the bed.
For some reason this video felt very relaxing! would be great to see some more 3d printing
The trouble is the manufacturer doesn't take into account that you may not need a complete new crown guard but it's all about them forcing you to buy things excessively regardless of the one thing you need to put an issue right Keith.
Great video mate 👍🏽 👌
Useful tip on the fence, I'll go do that now to my bandsaw fence!
Great improvements Keith, I happened to watch Karl's video last night before this one, he does produce some great solutions 👍.
I have this (or very similar) saw so thought I would share a couple of things i learnt from it.
To adjust the fence I had a couple of square base magswitches so I locked them onto the table parallel to the blade (and the mitre slot as they should be the same) at the front and back of the table and clamped the fence against them to hold it in place whilst tightening the bolts.
As for the crown guard, with mine if you cranked the blade up all the way I think the fence slipped in under the guard so you could get close to the blade (as i type this i realise that I think mine is a 12" and yours is a 10" so it might be different) but either way I just ended up removing the guard for close cuts as frankly I think it is safer to have good access for a push stick than to kept the guard in place and either not use a push stick or so something sketchy with it.
I have since totally abandoned the crown guard for most jobs as the riving knife is too tall for grooving cuts which I do more now so I ordered a spare riving knife and cut it down to slightly shorter than than the blade height which removes the crown guard mounting slot. i ordered the 2nd riving knife as I assumed i would switch back and forth, but frankly I have never put the original and crown guard back in as i have never felt the need. The dust extraction never worked well enough for me to care about loosing it, and I think from a safety standpoint for me it is better to always have a riving knife rather than a crown guard, especially on narrower cuts where I have better access for push sticks or blocks without a guard getting in the way.
6:16 I use Amazon box when I use spray paint Keith uses Festool box, he's come a long way.😀
🤣🤣🤣I had a feeling someone would comment on that
My lumberjack saw has the same issue with the fence skewing when you tighten it. I'll be trying a shim as soon as I get time to play in the workshop 😁
Nice video kieth a still think you should of went with the lumberjack saw granted u may still have had to make some those modifications with the lumberjack one but don't think would of been nearly as many. Time will tell once u send it back if you miss it. 🏴👍
LumberJack TS1800 Review Video: ua-cam.com/video/3huYfNfCXyg/v-deo.html
Axminster AT254SB Review Video: ua-cam.com/video/gvBQCAHtEGo/v-deo.html
Finger Joint Jig Video: ua-cam.com/video/P7WBeXRufWg/v-deo.html
75mm Castors: amzn.to/3JUB60N (Amazon UK) geni.us/A07BZK (Amazon Worldwide)
Strawbyte Workshop Website: www.strawbyte.com/
Strawbyte Workshop UA-cam Channel: ua-cam.com/users/StrawbyteWorkshop
Blog Post: www.strawbyte.com/blog/2023/4/3/fence-fixes-ragnbonebrown
Pointers for Axminster AT254SB: www.strawbyte.com/merchandise/fence-pointers-large-tablesaw
Pointers for the Axminster Craft/Workshop saws: www.strawbyte.com/merchandise/fence-pointer-small-tablesaw
Waste-side-jigs: www.strawbyte.com/merchandise?category=Workshop+Jigs
Milwaukee plunge saw cover: www.strawbyte.com/merchandise/plunge-saw-dust-cover-for-milwaukee
0:00 Intro
0:16 LumberJack TS1800 or Axminster AT254SB
3:48 Problem 1: Manouverability
7:29 Problem 2: Insert Plate
11:25 Problem 3: Measurement Marker
14:54 Problem 4: The Fence
15:58 Problem 5: Narrow Rip Cuts
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I used a turn hold down thing from a dewalt table saw insert for mine works a treat. Possible available as a spare part.
Brilliant information, thank you so much. I’m considering buying a new one, haven’t used one since I cut the ends of my fingers off, been using track saw instead, but it’s taking too long. A lot to consider before buying eh? Love the Chanel 👍👍👍👍
Try eucalyptus oil when removing sticky adhesive. It's a great solvent to have around for that purpose and smells good 👍
Great problem solving; very encouraging! Thank you!
Pretty nice work, Keith! 😃
Yeah, making jigs take some time... But they're definitely worth it!
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Nice solutions mate, what a genius Karl is.
Absolutely!
Hello from Ireland !I have that exact problem with the table fence so I'm gong to do that, thanks. The screws that hold the fence rail to the fence clamp are a bit stripped, any tios for fixing those? My fence is basically adjusted every cut by tapping it with the screws left alone. Seems dangerous to have a fence shift on most cuts!
Well I have lost my bet with myself..... It was theLumberJack for me... but as always you have made the improvements you needed so win win. Nice one Keith.... and Karl Those single swivel bases are rank, I bought one for my Drum Sander, soon replaced it with heavy duty castors
It’s so nice to know i’m not the only one who has a box of castors in their workshop
Great upgrades. With the insert plate could you add magnets to what would be the front side rather than the bottom? This would not give as good a hold but it may be enough with your flush-fitting plate.
Castors: For seriously wide ranges, check theatrical chandlers. One near me is called Flints, but there must be others. The moment a friend suggested them, it made obvious sense. More options than Ironmongery Direct, etc
Try also Bearingboys for a good range
(7:25) Considering none of the casters lock, are you concerned the saw may move as you’re cutting a large, heavy, unwieldy piece of material with it?
it still locks via the hand screw knobs at the front
I think you made the right decision - overhauling all those surfaces sounds like a bit much. Great upgrades! I wonder if some sort of sprung latch (or just a springy strip of steel) on the front of the insert might help keep it captive, while still "pullable", if that makes sense.
Great stuff from StrawByte!
The axminster would have had it on grunt alone for me. Have to say though, I love that LJ supply a very decent looking fence as standard. Like the mods. I may do a similar swivel castor conversion on my Planer. Similar to yours was and just as much a pain in the ass to move in a tight space!
If you enlarge the slot in the guard bolt ,it will fit from the other side . Alternatively if you do not have a way of enlarging the slot , fit a washer to the end of the bolt so that it changes the position of the slot .
Seeing how much better your castors worked it's shocking how bad the old system was!
Karl's a genius. The way he designs these jigs is just on another level 😁
Nice upgrades Keith
I made the mistake of buying that Axminster mobile base for my tablesaw. I absolutely hate it!
I was planning to make a completely new base, but maybe I'll follow your lead on this.
Nice solutions, Keith!
For the saw insert, could you countersink and glue a washer or two to the underneath of the rebate on the wooden insert and then fit the magnet close by under the saw table itself?
Are those plastic spacers not going to squish over time and cause the caster braces to become loose? They look warped already
they are compressed with the tension of the nuts and bolts, but they're not going to squish more over time
What about fitting a magnet to a different part of the insert plate and gluing in a piece of corresponding metal?
Is the AP254SB the new version or is that a step up? Have they just stopped making the AT version and not replaced it?
You are so funny...I like how you figured it all out !
Great video mate…really interesting 👍
Some UHMW tape for the fence shims might work nicely.
I have the craft Axminster saw and i have the same problem as my fence off sets to the right by a mm or. Two.. the thing is will your solution work for the craft saw. Your saw adjustment block looks very much like the craft saw [the red one]… comments please!!
I have just bought the lumber Jack and not keen on the saw guard what saw crown guard what is the one you have please you said it fits both machines
Like the idea of dust extraction on the crown guard
That’s for your help
Regards
Dave
Axminster 👍
What about adding a magnet into the edge of the insert instead of the thin top. Otherwise great video!
Any chance I can piggyback off this discussion.
I have the "Einhell 2000W 250mm".
I find it wanting. Not really wide enough and the guide rail is stubby and has far too much play (and I won't even mention the cross cut).
I was looking at buying an after market guide rail to try and help, I found one got about £120.
Eventually I found the Lumberjack 10" portable table saw for £250.
It sports a rigid guide rail and a wide extension table and it is portable to boot.
Thinking about selling my Einhell, saving the money I'd have spent on guiderail and just getting this.
Have you, or anyone else got any thoughts on this table saw etc?
Please/thank you.
Thanks for this! I'm considering to buy an Axminster AW254 but I'm actually a bit hesitant, only due to the way the fence is attached. In your 1800 TS review, it was quite apparent the fence attachment, with all its added adjustment capabilities was superior to the Axminster. Would it be possible to buy a third-party fence attachment which has the TS1800 fence adjustment capabilities and put them on the Axminster? If so, can anybody indicate where I could purchase that? Thanks!
Yes, search for biesemeyer fence and you should be able to bolt the rails to the table
good video complex puzzle sorted !
I tried to find it myself, but had no luck. I'm really interested in that red dust hood that clamps to the riving knife. Where can I get one?
Google crown guard, it's the first result that comes up 👍
@@RagnBoneBrown Thanks!
I have this saw and have the same frustrations as you. I typically leave the crown gard off 😲but then dust extraction is worse than terrible. The little machine screws to remove the insert place is THE WORST pain with the thing. I am so sick of removing and replacing those f***ing screws!
I hear you!! 👍
Have either of you tried blocking the gaps at the top and bottom of the saw so that the lower vacuum is only pulling air through the blade slot? I have seen this done but am not sure whether this will affect the motor cooling.
Could you put magnets in the sides of the 12mm MDF ?
Absolutely brilliant loved the show ❤
You could recess some small magnets in your inset plate to secure it
Do you have a link to the crown guard that can be switched to have the lever on the other side?
amzn.to/3MzGBVq
Great video! I am looking to purchase a table saw and was interested in the lubmberjack following your earlier review. If you didn't already own the Axminster saw would your choice have been different 🤔
2:02
Pretty sure I’ll be getting a lumberjack, the points system began to feel a bit like a hunt for reasons to keep the Axminster at the end 😂
Simpler way is to toss a coin, if you know the second the selection is revealed you wanted the other one you have your answer no justification needed. They both look to be good saws though so I can understand the trouble choosing.
If you do use code Shaunshed for 5% off
Hi Keith, Strawbyte waste side spacers. Can't do without them.
Magnetic cupboard door catches might be something to look at for the front
The casters might not fail but that flat plate might bend with time. I know it's thick steel but it's only a flat plate. It doesn't have much lateral strength aside from being thick.
Still having issues with my Lumber Jack saw, still blowing fuses, even slow blow fuses. Lumber Jack now saying I need a 16amp circuit.
But a 16amp circuit won’t help unless you have a 16amp plug and fuse. Are they saying you need to fit a new plug? Are they going to pay for that given the saw doesn’t work as advertised?
@@therestlessworkshop Yes will have to replace the plug on saw too, which apparently wont void any warranties. Of course very unlikely I'll get anything from LumberJack, I just want people to know what they are getting into with this saw, definitely does not work as advertised. Having said that for the level of saw I wanted I guess it was inevitable that I would end up needing a 16amp circuit, and the Lumber Jack saw still ticks a lot of boxes for me.
@@timd2809
I have the same issue with my lumberjack saw. I was hoping that slow blow fuses demonstrated in one of this bloke’s previous vids would do the trick. I paid £5.00 for two fuses,they lasted less time than an ordinary fuse. I normally like to switch the power off when the saw’s not in use,I find if I leave the power switch on the wall on,even when the saw’s not in use,my fuses last much longer. When I finish in my workshop,I lower the blade and lock my workshop door,I don’t want my grandchildren to wonder in and press the on switch on a saw that’s ready to cut 24/7. I’ve been advised to upgrade the saw to 16a too. More expense.
I would get onto them and get the saw returned for a refund myself. It's not fit for purpose as advertised. No way should you need a 16a supply for a motor that size. It's advertised to run on a 13a supply and that's what it should do. The company seem totally amateur in getting this problem corrected.
@@alankirbywoodworking Yeah its not great but for the money and features what else is out there, I will go ahead with the 16amp circuit anyway as whether its with this saw or another I think I will need it anyway. Haven't ruled out returning it yet.
hi mate - the links to your website in the description start with https, it looks like your website doesnt support that protocol and needs http to be used instead
Maybe, Karl can design a pin for the guard using 3D prints? Might be a lot faster to use Karl than to get an entire large-company to design one extra thing (something which they should've already been aware of).
Like always, great video!
P.s. I'm quite concerned regarding the castors, incase they fail on you while making a cut. Unless, I missed something?
I think metal ones are more practical, besides, seems Axminster are already on top of it. If the castors fail, the saw only drops by 15mm at the most, so not a big deal
If the Lumberjack is like the Ridgid here in the US, then you made the right decision. By US standards, the Ridgid is not a good choice.
I mean, to me, one of them being discontinued would make it a non-starter for me. With it being discontinued, getting replacements if necessary will only get harder over time. That may be the same for any item, but the countdown on that doesn't really start until it's reached EOL.
the saw is still sold by iTech and SIP so spare parts are available
@@RagnBoneBrown For now. They still have old stock, but how many spare parts are there, or are the spares still being made(even if only kept in small quantities).
Nice adjustments
Most of this was absolutely golden, but one thing stood out as a huge safety issue. You just made your table saw easier to move, AND took away the ability to lock it in place, all at the same time. Isn't this unsafe? Obviously it won't move on you with smaller projects, the weight alone will keep it stationary, but what about when you're wrestling some massive sheet of thick plywood onto it -- or worse, through it?
You need some kind of foot-operated kick stop to lock it in place -now-, or even just casters with brakes, because if you're like me you'll forget and only remember it doesn't have a lock now when it actually moves at the worst possible time.
I think 2 original casters still have breaks on plus this saw is super heavy. You won.t move it when cutting stuff on it unless you put whole body weight on it.
Disappointing outcome. Was really hoping that the Lumberjack stayed as I've looked into these since your review. I've done my research and decided its the one for me. So going with the Axminster meant I didn't need to continue with this vid. No bother, see you on the net one!!!
Should you do use code SHAUNSHED for 5% discount
I solved my table saw issues by just getting a track saw instead :)
I would like to purchase a Hammer K3 Saw Table with sliding table but Felder UK have a strange way of selling or rather not selling! They will not publish the prices. Their excuse is that everyone wants different accessories. I said why not publish the price of the accessories as well? But that seemed to be above their level of comprehension.
Sounds about right! I don't know why it has to be so difficult
It seems to me that the table saws you've had since the old Dewalt have all been a net downgrade. Is that fair? I suppose the bigger tables are really useful, but they all seem to be of inferior design, especially when it comes to the fence and measuring.
Depends what you want out of a saw really. I wouldn't want to go back to the DeWalt, I found it unpleasant to use mainly because of how noisy it was
When you measure depth use the other end of the caliper it gives a lot more flat surface thus easier and more accurate. I put my back out using the Record bandsaw wheels so spent a furtune on the improved wheel lift abomination. Whoever designed this never used it once the table overhangs the lift handle and the resulting contortion in use is bad for your health.
Interesting scoring system. It heavily favoured the lumberjack because it has more lines that score so it’s easier to get a higher score
Would have been better to score each saw for each of the lines and then get a total, or average
Then again, the Axminster still won haha
But the reason it has more lines that score is because it has more advantages? 👍
Put the same criteria for both saws, the Axminster would simply show zero where it didn't have the Lumberjack's advantages. Same score!
@@richa8308 not sure I get this logic. Are you assuming that because one saw scores higher the other will automatically score 0? It’s ok to score one less than the other but not like all or nothing
@@MigleschienHysteria Hi Jack, sorry, my thought pattern is not well expressed. If we took all criteria listed for both saws and applied against each, there would be a fairer scoring system. However, Keith will inevitably have used all criteria, at least subconsciously, and his exclusion in certain listings suggests a dismissal, or zero score, at least subconsciously. Therefore, had the criteria lists been comprehensive, the score would still have been the same. I'm not assuming that a higher score negates the other's score for that criteria, but am suggesting that where the criteria is not listed, its score is automatically zero. Big assumptions on how Keith's mind has worked, but its generally how we all think.
Why not just lower the lumberjack 75mm?..
It has a built in stand
You can't beat a good spreadsheet 🤣
That plastic chopping board has had some use lately! 🤣
Ha ha yes but I'm running low now!
Yep, pen pushers who design tools never use em 👍
Honestly you shouldn't have to fix anything. Particularly on a table saw that cost over a grand.
But nice solutions.
If I had the money for a workshop, I'd probably go for a sawstop.
Don.t think they are available in Europe
Haha I'm a flooring installer and when I hear the word axminster I don't think table saw.
U should have just returned the guard while swapping your pin in the box and keep theirs. Lol.
🤣👌
Makes me want to put my table saw together, it's still in bits 😂
Incumbent won then
Is not adjusting your other stuff to fit the new saw a "project" in itself ? You literally put wheels on an old discontinued product 😂
pointless video you kept the worse saw in your opinion because you didn't want to make new jigs but you spent more time reworking the castor wheel